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Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1 –Page # i
Assembly Information Guide Disclaimer
Definition of Terms
The use of the word “Information” includes any and all information contained within this Backcountry Super Cubs Builder’s Manual, including, but not limited to text, images, graph‐ics, diagrams, and references.
“Guide” means this Backcountry Super Cubs Builder’s Manual.
“User” means any individual or entity who utilizes this Guide for any purpose.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF INHERENT RISKS
By using the Guide, User acknowledges the inherent risks associated with experimental and amateur‐built aircraft and aviation, including bodily injury or death. Backcountry Super Cubs, LLC and its members, officers, directors, agents, employees, and their heirs, succes‐sors and assigns (collectively, “BCS”) has no control over, and assumes no responsibility for, User’s ability to successfully construct and test the User’s completed aircraft, with or with‐out the use of the Guide.
User acknowledges that the FAA and/or other knowledgeable persons should inspect the aircraft at construction intervals, as well as the completed project, prior to flight and that User should work with his local FAA representative regarding the construction and licens‐ing of the aircraft. User, on behalf of itself and its successors and assigns, agrees to comply with all FAA regulations regarding the construction, licensing, and operation of the com‐pleted aircraft, including but not limited to obtaining and maintaining all appropriate li‐censes and ratings prior to operating the completed aircraft.
NO WARRANTY
ANY USE WHATSOEVER OF INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THE GUIDE IS AT USER’S OWN RISK. THE INFORMATION IS INTENDED TO BE SOLELY EDUCATIONAL AND REC‐REATIONAL IN NATURE, AND IS PROVIDED “AS IS” WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW. BCS EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES AND CONDITIONS, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, IN‐CLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, NONINFRINGEMENT, STRUCTURAL INTEG‐RITY, PERFORMANCE, FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS, OR SAFETY OF THE USER’S COM‐PLETED AIRCRAFT AND ITS COMPONENT PARTS, WITH OR WITHOUT USE OF THE GUIDE. THE ENTIRE RISK ARISING FROM USE OF ANY INFORMATION IN THE GUIDE RE‐MAINS WITH THE USER.
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1 –Page # ii
Assembly Information Guide Disclaimer (continued)
NO ENDORSEMENT
ANY USE WHATSOEVER OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THE GUIDE IS AT USER’S OWN RISK. THE INFORMATION IS PROVIDED “AS IS” WITHOUT ENDORSEMENT OF ANY KIND EITHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, INTENTIONAL OR UNINTENTIONAL BY BCS.
NO LIABILITY FOR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.
TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, IN NO EVENT SHALL BCS BE LIABLE FOR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAM‐AGES WHATSOEVER (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, EMOTIONAL DAMAGES, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF BUSINESS PROFITS, BUSINESS INTERRUPTION, LOSS OF BUSINESS INFORMATION, OR ANY OTHER PECUNIARY OR EQUITABLE LOSS) ARISING OUT OF THE USE OF OR INABILITY TO USE THE GUIDE.
LIMITATION OF LIABILITY
BCS’s ENTIRE LIABILITY AND USER’S EXCLUSIVE REMEDY FOR ANY DAMAGES ARISING FROM USE OF THE GUIDE SHALL NOT EXCEED THE ACTUAL AMOUNT PAID BY USER FOR THE GUIDE.
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1 –Page #1
Chapter # Page # Revision # Creation Date
#1 Introduction
Unpacking & inventory
Required Tools & Work Area
Techniques & Torque values
Construction standards
#2 Airframe Assembly
Trim System
Jack screw sub‐assembly
Jack screw install
Rear trim indicator pulley
Trim cable
Trim system fairleads
Trim plate
Trim handle & front pulleys
Trim indicator cable
Trim indicator
Balance cable sub‐assembly
Rudder –Cleaning bushings
Rudder –Bushing install
Rudder –Temporary install
Stringers
Top
Bottom & sides
Vertical fin
Elevator balance cable bracket
Vertical fin radius (Saddle)
Floor boards
Board Map
Rear & front baggage
Front seat fitting
Torque tube thread cleaning
Front floor boards
12
13
18‐20
20‐21
35
21
22
23‐24
25
26
27
23‐25
26
27
28‐30
34
36
39
33‐35
39
36
37
38
38
40‐41
1.0
1.0
1.2
1.2
1.2
1.2
1.2
1.2
1.2
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.2
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
July 2008
May 2009
May 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
May 2009
May 2009
May 2009
May 2009
April 2009
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1 –Page #2
Chapter # Page # Revision # Creation Date
Rudder Controls
Pedals install
Pulleys & cables
Flap cables
Elevator cables
Torque tube
Rudder cable s to pedals
Fair leads
Lift strut pulleys
Brake System
Brake reinforcement plate
Pedals
Connecting pedals together
Master cylinder install
Reservoir
Gear legs
Fuel System
Fuel system switch modification
Fuel line routing
Electrical System
Battery cables & ground wires
Wiring Map
Interior panels
#3 Wing Assembly
Introduction
Removing flaps & ailerons
Fuel tanks
Landing lights
Wiring
Fuel lines & auxiliary pump
Pitot line
Drilling for rivets
Flap & aileron install
39‐41
43‐44
42
43
45‐46
47
48
48
49
49‐50
51
51‐52
52‐53
54‐57
58‐59
60‐63
64‐66
67
68‐75
76
76
77‐80
80‐85
86‐88
89‐90
91
92‐93
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.2
1.2
1.0
1.1
1.0
1.0
1.0
1.1
1.0
1.1
1.1
1.0
1.0
1.0
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
April 2009
May 2009
May 2009
May 2009
May 2009
May 2009
May 2009
April 2009
June 2008
April 2009
November 2007
November 2007
April 2009
April 2009
May 2009
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1 –Page #3
Chapter # Page # Revision # Creation Date
#4 Fabric Covering
Map
#5 After paint assembly
Landing gear
Tail wheel
Stabilizer
Tail brace wires
Elevators
Rudder
Tail control cables
Instrument panel
Glass installation
Main wheels & brakes
Brake lines
#6 Firewall forward
Engine install
Cowling
Baffling
Other items firewall forward
#7 Wing install
Lift struts & tie down rings
Jury struts
Flaps & Ailerons
Connecting Flaps & Ailerons
Connecting Fuel & Pitot lines
#8 Finishing Trim
Interior panel trim
Wiring outside of panel
Wing root fairings
Inspection cover plates
“N” Number & Required Placards
#9 Before Flight Information
Log Books
Weight & Balance
Ground Run & Taxi Test
Safety equipment
FAA Inspection
How to break‐in a new engine
94‐97
97‐99
100‐109
110‐115
116‐120
120‐122
123‐127
128‐137
137‐146
147‐148
Video
Video
149‐151
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Builder’s Manual Index Rev # 1.1 –Page #4
Chapter # Page # Revision # Creation Date
#10 First Flight
What to expect
Fine tune your rigging
Phase 1 flight testing
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Parts Inventory Rev # 1.0
–Page #5
Fuselage Group
Part # Description Amount
F1 Fuselage Assembly (welded & Power Coated) 1
F2 Jack Screw 1
F3 Jack Screw Yoke 1
F4 Jack Screw Tube 1
F5 Jack Screw Pulley (Large 2 Groove) 1
F6 Jack Screw Key 1
F7 Trim Cable Rear Idler Pulley Bracket (1 3/4) 1
F8 Trim Cable Front Drive Pulley (2 Groove) 1
F9 Trim Indicator Fairleads 5
F10 Trim Cable Front Idler Pulley
Bracket 1 3/4" (Dual Door) 1
F11 Top Elevator Cable Connecting Link 1
F12 Lower Elevator Cable Connecting Link 1
F16 Oil Light Bushings (12 small & 6 long) 1
F17 Hinges Engine‐side Cowls (2" x 26") 2
F18 Bag Door Hinges (1 1/2" x 24") 1
F19 Control Stick Torque Tube 1
F20 Control Stick connecting Rod 1
F21 Control Sticks 2
F22 Control Stick Pivots 2
F23 Hardware Bolt Kit (Airframe) 1
F25 Rudder Pedals 4
F26 Rudder Pedal Saddles 8
F27 Brake Pedals 2
F28 Brake Pedal Saddles 4
F29 Brake Pedal Blocks 4
F30 Brake Reinforcement Plate 1
F31 Floor Board 2 Hole Mount Plate 14
F32 Set Floor Boards (4 pc) 1
F33 Front Seat Assembly (Top & Bottom) 1
F35 Lower Aileron Cable Connecting Link
(At the Control Stick) 2
F36 Upper Aileron Cable Connecting Link 2
F37 Brake Interconnect Rods (24 1/2" threaded) 2
F37B Rod Ends & Jam Nuts (XM3) for F37 4
F38 Large Fairleads 19
F39 Rear seat Crossbar 1
F40 Baggage Door 1
F41 Fuselage Stringers 6
F42 1 3/4" Pulleys 12
F43 2 3/4" Pulleys 5
F44 1" Pulleys (5 with upper rear baggage door) 3
F15 Front Elevator Cable Pulley (3") 1
F45 Boot Cowl w/reinforcements, instrument
panel tabs (6) 1
Engine Cowl Angle Mounts (4)
F45B Side Cheeks (just behind boot cowl) left & right 2
Fuselage Group
Part # Description Amount
F46 Windshield 1
F47 Windshield Trim Strips 2
F47B Rear Side window front trim strips 2
F48 Windshield side Trim Strips 2
F48B Skylight front & rear trim strip 2
F48C L21 rear upper side glass trim strip 2
F49 Throttle Cover (Single Door Only) 1
F50 Throttle Handles 2
F50B Throttle Handle Balls 2
F51 Throttle Connecting Rod 1
F52 Flap Lever Assembly 1
F53 Flap Lever Pivot Shaft 1
F54 Flap Cam Detent 1
F56 Instrument Panel 1
F57 Engine Mount Saddles 4
F58 Engine Mount (Check options) 1
F59 Engine Cowl Support Channels 4
F60 Side‐Cowl Doors 2
F61 Side Cowl Door Formers 2
F62 Nose Bowl 1
F63 Top Cowl 1
F64 Bottom Cowl 1
F64B Air scoop (check options) 1
F64C small air scoops (air exit) 2
F65 Entrance step (2 for double door) 1
F66 Upper Door (check options) 1
F67 Lower Door (check options) 1
F68 Trim Cable Tensioned Spring 1
F69 Elevator Balance Cable Spring 1
F70 Trim Handle & Bearing Kit 1
F73 Brake Master Cylinder (check options) 2
F74 Fuel Site Gauges (check options) 2
F75 Carb Heat Air Box (check options) 1
F76 Torque Tube Caps 2
F77 Flap Button 1
F78 Tail Brace Wire Set 1
F79 Vertical fin radius fairing ( Saddle ) 1
F80 Kit Assembly Manual (Book + CD) 1
Backcountry Super Cubs PA‐18 Parts Inventory Rev # 1.0 –Page #6
Part # Description Amount
Fuselage Group Cont.
F78 Tail Brace Wire Set 1
F79 Vertical fin radius fairing ( Saddle ) 1
F80 Kit Assembly Manual (Book + CD) 1
Wing Group
W1 Wing Assembly R & L 2
W2 Fuel Tanks 2
W4 Fuel Tank Covers 2
W9 Flap Assembly 2
W11 Flap Bell crank Rods 2
W12 Aileron Assembly 2
W18 Lift Struts 4
W18B Lift Strut Forks 4
W19 Droop Tips (Square Only) 2
W20 Lower Aileron Cable Bracket (2 pcs) & Pulley (2 3/4) 2
W21 Landing Light Bulb Holder (set of 2) 4
W22 Landing Light Finishing Kit (see options) 2
W23 Front Jury Strut 2
W24 Rear Jury Strut 2
W25 Front Jury Strut Clamp 2
W26 Rear Jury Strut Clamp 2
W27 Jury Strut Spacer Bar 2
W28 Jury Strut Clamp Tab 4
Landing Gear
L1 Tail Spring Support 1
L2 Main Landing Gear Leg (left & right) 2
L3 Landing Gear Struts 2
L4 Cabane V 1
L5 Wheel Spacers 2
L6 Main Wheel & Brake Set 2
L7 Tail Wheel 1
L8 Tail Wheel Spring 1
L9 Axel Nuts 2
Part # Description Amount
Tail Group
T1 Rudder 1
T2 Elevators 2
T3 Stabilizers 2
T4 Rear Stabilizer Pivot Shaft 1
T5 Front Stabilizer Pivot Shaft 1
T6 Vertical Fin 1
Cables Group
C1 Top Aileron Cables w/Turnbuckles 2
C2 Lower Aileron Cables w/Turnbuckles 2
C3 Jack Screw to Elevator Balance Cable 1
C4 Jack Screw to Elevator Balance Cable
Pulley Bracket (1 3/4) 1
C5 Top Elevator Cable at Turnbuckles and Frt. Link 1
C6 Bottom Elevator Cable 1
C7 Rudder Cables w/connecting Links 2
C8 Flap Cable w/2 turnbuckles 1
C9 Trim Ind. Cable 1
C10 Trim Cable (endless) 1
C11 Trim Indicator Cable Rear Stringer Brackets 2
Section Intro 01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Required Tools & Work Area –Page #12
When building your aircraft you will need enough space to
at least buildup and cover one wing at a time & have the
ability to move each component outside after completion.
There would be nothing worst then to build your aircraft
indoors and have no way of getting it outside.
To maximize your work area and reduce the need of a
helper we suggest getting a wing rotator, you will be able
to move the wings around the shop much easier and it
would make it much more ergonomically better for you
when working.
Your work area should be large enough so that you can
work around the total circumference of one wing at a time.
The work area should be well lit & free from debris. The
work table should be large enough to set your components
on in, make sure that it’s surface is clean at all times so that
none of your parts could get scratch or damaged.
NOTE: Before starting any part of your aircraft it is
STRONGLY SUGGESTED to have a camera around to take
photos of you doing work during each step of the construc‐
tion. It is best to get a notebook and make entries every day
that you are in the shop. The FAA prefers to have hand writ‐
ten entries and a signature at the end of each entry. Note
your start and finish time for each entry. This should prove
to the inspector that you were indeed the one who worked on
your aircraft and not another person or company. Having as
much proof in place will give the inspection process a more
positive result in your favor. Be detailed in the log book of
what and when you did the work. Remember that it is OK to
have friends or other people help you with the build, as long
as they are doing it as an amateur builder. Have them make
an entry in your log book for each day they help you.
Remember, you need to be in each picture. The FAA does not
care about the aircraft at this point, they only care about you
proving you did the work.
We have done our best to minimize the amount of tools
needed to build one of our aircraft and still keep within the
51% rule. We also tried our best to only use tools that are
easy to come by & reduced as much specialty tools
needed. How ever some specialty tools will save a ton of
time but with a cost. In the next page or so we will list the
tools that we used and list tools that would help reduce
Section Intro 01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Required Tools & Work Area –Page #13
Listed below are the AN Bolt, wrench & drill bit size re‐
quired to build your aircraft.
Bolt size Wrench Drill Torque
AN526‐ 1/4” #36
AN3‐ 3/16” #12 20‐25” lbs
AN4‐ 7/16” 1/4” 50‐70” lbs
AN5‐ 1/2” 5/16” 100‐140” lbs
AN6‐ 9/16” 3/8” 160‐190” lbs
AN7‐ 1” 7/16 450‐500” lbs
Torque wrench either inch lbs or foot lbs
A set of standard imperial wrenches
An index of fractional, numbered, and lettered drill bits
Plexiglass Drill bit
#11, 3/8”, 5/16” Ream
1/8‐26 NPT Tap
1/4” x 20 Tap
Cleco pliers
Clecos 3/32” & 1/8” (Copper & Zinc )
Strap duplicator * (hole finder)
#6 Nut plate drill jig
Countersink tool
Unibit drill “Step drill”
Deburring tool *
Phillips screw driver
Common head screw driver
Duck billed pliers
Nicopress pliers* or large pliers
Rivet gun
Rivet squeezer
Measuring tape
Rulers long & short
Caliper digital or analog
Spring clamps
Hack saw or power miter saw
Magic markers (fine point)
Acid brush
Paint brush
Section Intro 01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Required Tools & Work Area –Page #14
Electrical tape
Painter tape
Needle file
Flat file
Round file
Sand paper
Small round wooden dowel
Pinking shears ( Fabric scissors )
Safety wire twisters
Tubing cutter
Tubing bender
Tubing flange tool
Green & Red handle shears (snips)
Wire stripper
Fine tip & knife edge Soldering iron
Multi meter with continuity test
Level
5/32” Hex wrench ( Allen Key )
Rare earth magnets
Vacuum
Dremel tool
Fish scale
Hammer
Dead blow hammer
Hand held grinder
Band saw *
Punch tool
* tools that you don't have to buy but would make it much
easier to build your aircraft with.
Section Intro 02 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Unpacking & Inventory –Page #15
When you receive your aircraft kit, the first thing that you
need to do is take your parts list check off sheet and check
off every part that you find in your kit.
If you are having a hard time recognizing an item you can
use our website’s packing list link to identify each part. Our
packing list shows in detail the part number, description,
amount required and a photo of every part that should be
shipped.
Note: Look over all parts and accessories for any possible
damages during shipment. The last thing you want is a set of
lift struts dented or bent.
If any of your parts have been damaged during shipment
please report it as soon as possible.
Hardware Descriptions & Torque Values Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs Quick Reference Guide –Page #16
AN BOLT TORQUE & DRILL SIZE CHART
The following torque valuse are derived
from oil free cadmium plated fine thread series.
Bolt Size W
asher Size Thin W
asher
Size
Lg. A
rea Flat
Washer
Nylon In
sert
Locknut
Castle Nut
Cotter Pin
Drill Size To
rque
Inch lbs
Torque Ft
lbs
AN3‐
AN960‐10
AN960‐10L
AN970‐3
AN365‐1032
AN310‐3
MS24665‐132
#12
20‐25
1.66‐2.08
AN4‐
AN960‐416 AN960‐416L
AN970‐4
AN365‐428
AN310‐4
MS24665‐138
1/4"
50‐70
4.16‐5.83
AN5‐
AN960‐516 AN960‐516L
AN970‐5
AN365‐524
AN310‐5
MS24665‐138
5/16"
100‐140
8.33‐11.66
AN6‐
AN960‐616 AN960‐616L
AN970‐6
AN365‐624
AN310‐6
MS24665‐283
3/8"
160‐190 13.33‐15.83
AN7‐
AN960‐716 AN960‐716L
AN970‐7
AN365‐720
AN310‐7
MS24665‐283
7/16"
450‐500
37.5‐41.66
Sample Part Number Descriptions
AN3‐4
Drilled shank use castle nut
AN3‐4A
Undrilled shank use locknut
AN3H‐4
Drilled head use castle nut
AN3H‐4A Drilled head & Shank use locknut
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
FAA Construction Standards –Page #17
The FAA Construction standards guide (AC43.13‐1B) can be purchased threw Aircraft spruce Part # 13‐11350.
We also offer this book on our website as a downloadable PDF.
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #18
Sub‐assemble Jack Screw
The 1st step in building the trim system is to prime and
paint the Balance Cable Bracket. The bracket shown in Fig‐
ure #21 will need to be pre‐bent around the Jack Screw
Yoke then removed before painting.
Use a spray can of rust resistant primer. Let dry then use a
spray can of paint to protect this bracket from any possible
rusting.
The bending process is shown in Figure #22 ‐ #25.
Figure #24
Figure #23 Figure #22
Figure #25
Figure #21
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #19
To install the Balance Cable Bracket on to the Jack Screw
Yoke, use a AN3‐7 bolt, AN310‐3 castle nut with two
AN960‐10 washers and a MS24665‐132 cotter pin. Assem‐
ble each part as shown in Figure #26
During the installation of the trim system you may find a
few parts that have paint buildup in unwanted areas. These
items will require paint to be removed before installation
can occur. Any paint buildup in the following areas will
make it impossible to install the Jack Screw and will cause
some unwanted binding.
The Jack Screw Tube will require this paint removal process
at its attachment points and at the grease nipple location.
To clean the attachment points it is suggested to use a
15/16 drill bit to remove the excess paint in the bolt hole
locations.
Use a 1/8‐27 NPT Tap to clean the Zerk fitting location.
You will need to buy a ( MS15003‐6 ) 90 degree Zerk fit‐
ting (Grease fitting) to install in to the Jack Screw Pipe. You
can buy these thru Aircraft Spruce.
Install the Zerk fitting in to the Jack Screw Pipe and have
the fitting pointing forward and offset either left or right of
the indicator cable location.
Place the Jack Screw Tube on to the Jack Screw Yoke, en‐
suring you have the yoke in the upward forward position
and have the tube ‘s Zerk fitting facing upward when in‐
stalling. Use two AN5‐7 bolts, two AN960‐516 washers,
two AN960‐516L washers and two MS24665‐136 cotter
pins.
Connect the Jack screw pipe and yoke together as shown in
Figure #27. The thicker washer will be set between the
Jack Screw pipe and yoke and the thinner washer will be
set between the pipe and the castle nut.
When securing each of the castle nuts turn the nuts snug
then slightly back off to the next hole on the castle nut.
Place a MS244665‐136 cotter pin in each of the bolts and
bend each cotter pin to complete the Jack Screw Yoke sub‐
assembly.
Before installing the jack screw shaft in to the airframe,
you will need to clean any paint that may be found in the
air frame’s Jack Screw bushings. We suggest using a small
round piece of dowel wrapped with sandpaper
Figure #27
Figure #26
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #20
To ensure that you don’t enlarge the bushing holes, clean
each bushing a small amount and check for correct fit. At
the bottom of the lower bushing you will need to file off
any excess paint to ensure a correct fit for the Jack Screw
pulley.
Lubricate both the Jack Screw and each bushing with am‐
ple amount of white lithium grease before inserting the
Jack Screw in position.
Jack Screw install
Spin the screw clockwise when inserting in to the bushings
to reduce any possible binding. When you are satisfied with
the fit of the Jack screw, remove the screw half way up
between the upper and lower bushings to install the Jack
Screw Yoke and pipe assembly. Spin the Jack screw in to
the yoke making sure that the Jack Screw Pipe is facing
forward. Insert a AN960‐616 washer between the lower
bushing and the base of the Screw. Then place the screw in
to the lower bushing. Place a AN960‐616L small washer at
the bottom of the bushing as shown in Figure #28.
Cutting Jack Screw Key
Then take a measurement from the bottom of the cotter
key hole to the bottom of the AN960‐516L washer. This
measurement will now be used to measure and mark the
top side of the Jack Screw Key. Place the key in a vise and
use a common file to cut the key down to size as shown in
Figure #29 . Make sure to file the top of the key level.
Figure #28
Figure #29
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #21
Place the key in to the Jack Screw to check for correct fit
between the key and the pulley. Place the two grove pulley
item #F8 in to place . The pulley should slide over the key
without much resistance as shown in Figure #30.
Endless trim cable install
Remove the pulley from the Jack Screw and place the end‐
less trim cable onto the pulley. Carefully unpack the cable
and lay it inside the airframe from the trim handle location
in the front of the airframe to the back of the Jack Screw.
Run the cable on the top groove of the pulley ,then loop
round the R/S rear pulley tab. Then take the cable and run
it back around L/S the lower pulley groove as shown in Fig‐
ure #31 . Run the remaining excess cable toward the front
of the aircraft.
Notice that the R/S lower groove cable will be crossing un‐
der the tension rear pulley cable.
Carefully place the pulley on to the Jack Screw and ensure
that the cables do not slip out of the grooves. Then insert
two AN960‐616 washers on the screw, then secure the
pulley with a AN310‐6 Castle Nut. Tighten the castle nut
snug, then use a MS24665‐140 cotter pin to complete the
Jack screw assembly as shown in Figure #32.
Figure #31
Figure #30
Figure #32
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #22
The next step is to clean the 1” pulley holes with a #11
reamer. If you skip this step you may find that when you
run your AN3‐7 bolt threw each pulley it may have a tight
fit. Install two 1” pulleys onto the airframe using a AN3‐7
bolt, AN960‐10 washer, AN310‐3 castle nut and a
MS24665‐132 cotter pin. In each location be sure to have
the cable running under each pulley as shown in Figure
#33. Check to see that each pulley spins freely after assem‐
bly.
Fairlead Bushing install
Clean each of the large bushing slots found on the airframe
with a knife to allow the endless cable to slip inside each
fairlead. We suggest painting the inside of each bushing to
ensure that no rusting could occur. You can use a small
brush to paint each inner bushing. When painting is com‐
plete and dry, install the cable in to the bushings. You may
need to slightly bend the opening of each slotted bushing
with a common head screwdriver to slide the cable in to
position. Then install the plastic fairlead assemblies in to
each bushing. (each assembly will have 2 halves and 1
metal clip) There are a total of 4 large bushings that require
this step as shown in Figure #34 . Each of these fairleads
must be installed with the metal ring facing toward the
front of the aircraft.
Then install the 5 small fairlead bushings in the airframe.
These bushings are for the trim indicator cable.
Fit trim indicator plate
The next step is to install the trim indicator plate. To pro‐
tect the airframe’s paint use masking tape during the fit‐
ting process of this plate. There will be 3 areas you will
need to protect, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear of the plate
as shown in Figures #35 ‐ #36.
Note: The trim indicator plate is not part of the Aircraft
kit. If you decide that you would like Turbine Cubs of create
this plate you can be perched one for a small cost.
Figure #35
Figure #34
Figure #36
Figure #33
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #23
The trim indicator plate may need to be slightly trimmed to
fit in place. Mark with a magic marker the locations that
require trimming, an example is shown in Figure #37.
Use a file to cut down the unwanted material as shown in
Figure #38.
When the cover fits to your liking, mark the 2 securing
points, then mark the hole needed for the trim handle,
these locations are shown in Figure #39.
We marked both the inside & outside radius of the trim
handle as shown in Figure #40.
Figure #39
Figure #38
Figure #40
Figure #37
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #24
To ensure a correct measurement, measure the radius of
the trim handle bushing, as shown in Figure #41.
Take the measurement then divide in half. This will be the
center of the hole. Mark, then drill this location with a small
drill bit. Then use a step drill to enlarge the hole, show in
Figure #42.
To enlarge the hole to the needed size use a round file and
file to the marked line, as shown in Figure #43.
Figure #43
Figure #42
Figure #41
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #25
Trim Handle & Pulleys install
Find item #F70 (Trim Handle & Bearing Kit) shown in Fig‐
ure #44.
The first step is to install the lower bearing. This bearing
should slide in position with little force. Ensure you have
the bearing sitting flush with the bushing. Then install the
collar, place the crank handle in the lower bearing and col‐
lar then place the top bearings into position. Press down on
the bearing so that they fit flat in the trim crank bushing.
Place a washer on top of the bearing, then run the small pin
in to the trim handle post.
Install the Trim cable front idler pulley bracket. This assem‐
bly will require a AN3‐5A Bolt, 2 AN960‐3 washers & 1
AN365‐1032 locknut.
Place a washer on to the head of the bolt, run the bolt
through the pulley bracket and place the bracket on to the
airframe. The opening of the bracket will be pointing for‐
ward, run the bolt through and place the 2nd washer onto
the bolt, then install the locknut. Tighten with 3/8
wrenches.
Loop the endless trim cable around the pulley by first start‐
ing from the top L/S of the front pulley then run the cable
toward the 2nd pulley location. Then run the cable forward
(left lower groove) of the front pulley. With the small 1 3/4
pulley in hand, place a AN3‐5 bolt and a AN960‐3 washer
on to the rear pulley bracket and place the pulley in to the
bracket. Use a AN960‐3 washer on the backside of the
bracket and then the AN310‐3 castle nut with a MS24665‐
132 cotter pin and then bend in to position. Your final as‐
sembly should look like Figure #45.
Run the endless trim cable around the Rear Idler Pulley.
Then install the pulley in the Bracket item #F7 with a 1 3/4”
pulley. It will require the same hardware as previous AN3‐5
bolt, 2 AN960‐3 washers, AN310‐3 castle nut & a
MS24665‐132 cotter spin.
Once assembled, use item #C12 spring and secure spring
on to the bracket and then to the airframe as shown in Fig‐
ure #46.
When completed check the operation of the trim system.
You should be able to turn the handle and watch the Jack
Screw yoke travel all the way up and down with no resis‐
tance.
Figure #44
Figure #45
Figure #46
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #26
Install the trim indicator cable . Start from the front of the
aircraft route the cable threw each of the 5 small fairleads.
Install a small black nicopress sleeve on the end of the ca‐
ble. Then make a small loop in the cable, run the end of the
cable back through the nicopress sleeve, use a pair of pliers
to bond the wire together, as shown in Figure #47.
The final out come should look like Figure #48.
Run the cable through the top of the rear trim indicator
pulley and downward to the Jack Screw tube.
Trim indicator cable install
Place a AN960‐10 washer onto a AN3‐6 bolt, then run the
bolt half way through the jackscrew trim indicator, then
loop the cable around the bolt, run the bolt through the
bracket, place a AN960‐10L washer, spin on a AN380‐3
castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin.
The final assembly will look like Figures #49.
Figure #47
Figure #48
Figure #49
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #27
Trim indicator post install
To make the trim indicator , you will need a scrap piece of
stainless steel and cut it down to size we used a measure‐
ment of 1 5/8” x 5/8”. Mark a cross center line with a magic
marker. Place a AN366F‐1032A anchor nut onto the metal
plate, center the middle hole over the mark the you cre‐
ated. Mark the two end holes with the magic marker. Re‐
move the nut plate and drill out the center hole using a #11
drill bit then drill out the two outside holes using a #40 drill
bit.
Place the anchor nut onto the stainless steel plate, then
measure half way between the end of the anchor nut to the
end of the metal plate. Make a mark half way between
them. Do this for each end.
Drill each end with the #40 drill bit. Then install two CCP‐
32 rivets on the underside of the steel plate and through
the anchor nut . Press the rivets with a hand press rivet
gun.
Install one side of the stabilizer to add needed weight to
the Jack Screw, as seen in Figure #50. This is needed to
give a correct measurement when installing the trim indi‐
cator post.
Set the Jack Screw all the way up . Then install a spring
onto the one side of the metal plate and then attach the
other end of the spring onto the airframes top tab. Then
run the trim indicator cable through the other end of the
metal plate.
To set the length of the cable, make sure that the spring
has some tension on it. Install a small black nicopress
sleeve onto the cable and press the sleeve as shown in pre‐
vious steps. Make sure to give enough tension on the
spring but not too much. Install a small bolt in the anchor
nut this will be used to make a mark on the cover plate.
Use a magic marker and mark the center of the bolt loca‐
tion for the front.
Figure #50
Figure #50
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #28
Then crank the Jack Screw all the way down. You should
notice the bolt moving toward the back of the airframe.
Make a center mark under the bolt at the lowest Jack
Screw location, as shown in Figure #51 ‐ #52.
When both locations have been marked remove the trim
indicator cover plate and make a straight line between the
two locations. Measure the width of the bolt you will be
using for the trim indicator. Divide the measurement in
half and make two marks beside your center line on the
cover plate, as shown in Figure #53.
Use a #11 drill bit to drill out the two end marks on the
cover plate. Then use a round file to cut out the needed
hole. Follow the center line when cutting with the small
round file. When the hole has been made from one end to
the other use a flat file to trim to each of your outside lines.
Debur if needed.
Place the trim indicator cover plate back in to position and
check for fit. Crank the Jack Screw all the way up then all
the way down to check your final measurement / positions.
Figure #51
Figure #52
Figure #53
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #28
Use a #11 drill bit to drill out the two end marks on the
cover plate, as shown in Figure #54.
Then use a round file to cut out the needed hole. Follow
the center line when cutting with the small round file, as
shown in Figure #55.
When the hole has been made from one end to the other
use a flat file to trim to each of your outside lines, as shown
in Figure #56. Debur if needed.
Place the trim indicator cover plate back in to position and
cleco in, then install the bolt thru the trim plate then . To
check for correct fit, crank the Jack Screw all the way up to
see if your bolt rubs or touches the trim plate. Then turn
the crank all the way down to check the other end of the
slot for any touching, as shown in Figure #57.
Figure #55
Figure #54
Figure #56
Figure #57
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #30
Sub‐assemble balance cable pulley
Sub‐assemble the Jack Screw item #C14 to elevator bal‐
ance cable pulley bracket to a 1 3/4 pulley. To do this you
will need a AN3‐7 Bolt, AN3‐10 washer, AN3‐10L washer,
AN310‐3 Castle Nut and a MS24665‐132 cotter pin.
Place the AN3‐10 washer onto the AN3‐7 bolt. Wrap the
cable around the 1 3/4 pulley, slide pulley through the
bracket then install bolt to hold pulley in place as seen in
Figure #58. Place the AN3‐10L washer on the threaded
end of the bolt. Then screw on the castle nut, tighten until
snug, then back off one hole on the castle nut to install the
MS24665‐132 cotter pin.
Next install a cotter pin MS24665‐283 in the middle hole of
the bracket. This cotter pin will keep the cable from com‐
ing out of the pulley grove.
Clean Bushings
With a 3/8” ream, clean any paint and welding debris out of
each of the hinge bushings. The rudder system has 2
hinges. 2 at the top of the vertical fin item #T6, two at the
lower rear of the tail post, and 4 on the Rudder item #T1.
Ensure that you don’t over size the bushing holes during
the cleaning process. You can use a 3/8” Line Reamer to
clean each bushing, as shown in Figures #59, #60 & #61.
Figure #60
Figure #59
Figure #58
Figure #61
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #31
Install Bushings
Install the short Oil Light Bushings item #F16 in the Verti‐
cal Fin item #T6 and through the tail post. Make sure that
the bushings go in straight when installing each bushing.
Use a AN5 Bolt as a guide pin, tap in by hitting the head
with a hammer (you may find it easier to use a punch on
the head of the bolt).
The bolt head will protect the bushing during the installa‐
tion process, as shown in Figure #62.
Install 2 long Oil Light Bushings in the Rudder item #T1
bushing locations. Follow the previous steps shown above
for installing the bushings.
When all 6 Bushings are installed, place the Vertical Fin in
the tail post and jackscrew tower of the airframe. Then
install the rudder by using 2 MS20392‐3C53 clevis pins.
The pins are inserted from the top down as shown in Fig‐
ure #63.
Note: You will only temporally keep these pins in place
until all needed measurements have been taken.
Next we need to make the rudder parallel with the tail post
of the airframe. Measure the distance at the lowest point
between the tail post and rudder as seen in Figure #64.
Now measure the distance between the top of the tail post
(the top of the airframe, not the vertical fin) and the rud‐
der. Move the front of the vertical fin (where it goes threw
the Jackscrew tower) up or down until the distance at the
top of the tail post is the same as the distance at the bot‐
tom of the tail post, shown in Figure #65.
Figure #64
Figure #63
Figure #62
Figure #65
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #32
When the vertical fin has been set in the correct position,
drill the front of the vertical fin to the jackscrew tower. To
do this, first drill out one side of the airframe with a 3/16”
drill bit. It is not advisable to continue drilling all the way
through to the other side because it is too difficult to line
up the second hole. Install a pin (the backside of a drill bit
works well) in the hole you just drilled. This will hold the
alignment between the two holes as you go around and
drill the other side. With the same 3/16” drill bit, drill the
other side being cautious to keep the drill bit (being used as
a pin) square to the vertical fin. Then clean out the same
holes with a #11 drill bit. This can be seen in Figure #66 &
#67
Drill the forward rear side of the vertical fin with the 3/16”
drill bit. Then re‐drill with a #11 drill bit. Drill only the front
side of the airframe. Then place the 2nd drill bit in this hole
to temporally secure the vertical fin in place. Shown in
Figure #68.
To drill out the rear vertical fin location you must first re‐
move the rudder by pulling out both clevis pins to expose
the final drilling location. Drill out the last hole in the same
manner shown in the pervious steps. Keep the drill bit
straight during drilling, as shown in Figure #69.
Figure #68
Figure #67
Figure #66
Figure #69
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #33
Elevator balance cable bracket Install
Install the Elevator balance cable bracket assembly onto
the airframe. To install the bracket you will need a AN3‐12
Bolt, 2 AN960‐10 washers, AN310‐3 castle nut & a
MS24665‐132 cotter pin. Bend & cut the cotter pin into
position to complete the front side of the vertical fin instal‐
lation.
Note: ensure to have the Elevator balance cable bracket
installed in the correct direction. The cable guard is to be at
the top of the bracket as shown in Figure #70.
Place a AN3‐12A bolt facing forward through the vertical
fin & airframe, then install a AN960‐10 washer and com‐
plete the installation with a AN365‐1032 Locknut. Shown
in Figure #71.
To keep the top elevator balance cable from moving
around during the fabric covering process, it is suggested
to temporary secure it to the airframe with a tie strap as
seen in Figure #72.
Figure #72
Figure #71
Figure #70
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #34
Stringer Install
The next step is to install the stringers. Measure the top
center stringer. Start from the inside top front slot of the
airframe to the rear slot by the jackscrew. The measure‐
ment that we had was 83”.
Check your airframes measurement to ensure correct
length. Take one of the shorter stringers and mark the
measured length, then cut to size.
To cut the stringer you can use either a hack saw or even a
power miter saw as shown in Figure #1.
Note: When cutting with a power miter saw, cut the metal
slowly. This will ensure that the metal won’t bend during the
cutting process.
Top center stringer install
Install the center stringer by first sliding it in the front slot.
Then work your way to the back along the airframe. Place
the stringer in to each of the top airframe tabs. Clamp the
stringer in place at each tab location. This will eliminate
any movement of either the stringer or tabs. See Figures
#2 ‐ #3 for locations and clamping examples.
When marking the screw hole locations of each end of the
stringer, measure the center width of each slot then divide
the number in half. Then mark with a small magic marker
this location, as shown in Figure #4.
Because the slot is angled it is advisable to use a spring
handle center punch to assist with the start of drilling, as
shown in Figure #5.
Figure #1
Figure #4
Figure #3
Figure #5
Figure #2
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #35
Drill the hole using a #36 bit as shown in Figure #6. Make
sure to drill straight on. When the hole is complete use a
AN526C 440‐16 screw and a MS21044N04 locknut. To
tighten the screw and nut, use a 1/4” wrench & a #1 Phillips
screwdriver.
When drilling out each tab location install the same size
screw and locknut before moving to the next tab. Follow
the same guidelines for the rear slot as you did for the front
stringer slot.
Rear trim indicator pulley
Sub‐assemble the rear trim indicator pulley bracket. Use a
1 3/4” pulley, pulley brackets item #C11 one An3‐7 bolt,
one AN3‐10 washer, AN310‐3 castle nut & MS24665‐132
cotter pin.
You will first need to clean the pulley’s brass bushing and
each of the 3 holes in the bracket, using a #11 ream. Install
the bolt in the bracket then thread the bolt into the pulley,
place the other bracket onto the bolt then install the
washer and castle nut onto the bolt.
Measure the width of the stringers lower channel, then
divide the measurement in half. Lightly score the center
line in this channel as shown in Figure #8.
Position the pulley / bracket under the top rear stringer.
Measure from the front edge of the Jack Screw tower
bushing to the beginning of the pulley. The location should
be 2 3/8”. Use a clamp to hold the pulley bracket in place
and make a center mark for each hole in the bracket as
seen in Figure #9.
Remove the pulley bracket and drill out both holes using a
#30 drill bit to start. When both holes are complete re‐drill
each hole again using a #11 drill bit to complete.
Re‐install the pulley bracket and secure the bracket to the
stringer using 2 AN526C 1032‐16 screws and 2
MS21044N3 nuts.
Figure #8
Figure #7
Figure #9
Figure #6
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #36
Bottom stringer install
Measure the length of the bottom stringer. Start from the
bottom front center slot and measure to the rear center
tab add an inch extra to the total length of the stringer.
Place the bottom stringer in to the front slot and make sure
the stringer is in each tab clamp the stringer by each tab to
minimize any possible movement . Take a square and mark
from the rear bottom tab a line on the stringer, as shown in
Figure #10.
Remove the stringer and make the needed cut and file any
sharp edges.
Place the bottom stringer back in the front slot and clamp
in to position at each tab location. Check to see that the
stringer fits correctly at the rear tab. The stringer will need
to have a slight bend in it to fit in to the rear tab as shown
in Figure #11.
Drill the front slot as shown in pervious steps using the
same size drill bit and hardware to secure each tab loca‐
tion.
When drilling out the rear end of the stringer push up on
the stringer so that the bottom of the stringer would be
flush with the bottom of the rear tab, then drill and secure
with the required hardware.
Side stringers install
Measure and cut both of the upper side stringers at a
length of 98 3/4” long. Make sure that there isn’t any sharp
ends of the stringers, file the ends if needed.
Place one of the stringers in the front side slot. Then place
the stringer in each tab and clamp.
Follow the same steps shown for the upper middle stringer,
using the #36 drill bit and hardware to secure both upper
side stringers, as shown in Figure #12.
Figure #10
Figure #11
Figure #12
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #37
Preparing side stringers
Install the two thin profiled stringers on the lower sides.
The length of each extrusion will be different depending on
your baggage door configuration. We suggest starting with
the left side extrusion. Place the extrusion in to the front
slot, then work your way toward the rear of the airframe.
Set the extrusion on each airframe tap and clamp at each
tab. The extrusion will need to be bent in two locations,
one at the front and the other at the rear. These bends are
required so that the extrusion will not rub on the airframe.
See Figures #13‐ #14 for bend location examples.
To make the required bends, it is suggested to use two
blocks of wood , a table with a straight edge & a clamp.
Place the two blocks of wood between the extrusion and
then clamp in to position. Slide the extrusion through the
blocks until the marked location is at the edge of the table.
Hold down the back end of the extrusion so to keep the
extrusion from sliding. Slowly push down on the extrusion
to make the required bend, as shown in Figure #15.
NOTE: The blocks will ensure that the extrusion will not roll
over when you put some pressure down on to the extrusion to
bend. Figure #16 shows an example on how to bend the ex‐
trusion with the blocks in place.
Figure #16
Figure #15
Figure #13
Figure #14
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #38
By just placing a small amount of pressure down on the
extrusion you can create the needed bend in it, as shown in
Figure #17.
Side stringers install
Drill a hole at the tail end of both extrusion, center the hole
and measure 1/8” from the end then drill using a #36 drill
bit.
When installing each extrusion place them in to the front
slot first, then clamp on top of each tab. Drill at each tab
location with the #36 drill bit and secure with AN526C 440‐
8 screws & Ms21044N04 locknuts.
Note: When drilling in very tight angles it may be easier to
drill out the hard to reach holes with a very long drill bit, as
shown in Figure #18.
Take a scrap piece of extrusion and cut it to a length that
would slightly pull the rear stringers toward the center of
the airframe. On our air craft we measured a length of 5”
cut the extrusion and file each end.
Measure from each end of the short extrusion 2/8” mark a
center hole, then drill out two holes using a #36 drill bit, as
shown in Figure #19.
Place the short extrusion on to the top of the two rear
stringers. Place two AN526c 440‐8 screws in each end of
the short extrusion then through the longer extrusion. Se‐
cure using a MS21044N04 Locknut.
Determine where the stringers intersect the tubes when
they are straight all along the airframe. Mark the position,
move the stringers out of the way, and wrap the tubes with
black electrical tape to protect them.
Double wrap lockwire around each side as seen in Figure
#20 This will hold everything secure. You can use 0.032”
lockwire to secure these items.
Figure #19
Figure #20
Figure #17
Figure #18
Section AF00 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Trim System –Page #39
Vertical fin radius install
Find the Vertical fin radius or other wise known as “Saddle”
item #F79 prime and paint this item.
Noticed the hole in the middle of the saddle. This hole is to
be placed over the Jack Screw location. If ever you need to
remove the Jack Screw you would remove it though this
hole. Mark a center line at the front bottom of the saddle,
then measure 2/8” from the end mark as shown in Figure
#73 Then use a 1/8” drill bit to drill this location.
Place the saddle on to the top of the center stringer. We
suggest to find a pipe or dowelling that would fit in the
Jack Screw hole to help center the saddle over this hole, as
shown in Figure #74.
When centered, drill a 1/8” hole through the top of the
stringer. This hole only needs to be slightly deeper then the
CCP‐44 pop rivet, as shown in Figure #75.
Install the rivet then secure the rear side of the saddle with
a AN526C 440‐8 screw and use a MS21044N04 locknut, as
shown in Figure #76. The screw head and locknut must be
tight enough that when installing the aircraft skin that they
will not poke though, as shown in Figure #77.
Figure #74
Figure #73
Figure #75
Figure #76
Figure #77
Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #40
Figure #78 shows a top view of the airframe floor board
map and how the boards are placed on the airframe. There
are five pieces that come with your kit. The ¼” plywood
floor boards have been each precisely cut using our CNC
Router. Plywood can be easily be marked & water stained
so take great care when handling. You need to treat this
wood with some sort of finish. This is your choice and you
need to imagine the end result, how you want the airplane
to look. You can paint what ever color, leave clear, or even
use these floor boards as a pattern and make the floor out
of a different material. (Carbon Fiber)
For the sample airplane we used an automotive style clear
coat that was sprayed on. We achieved a nice gloss look by
using multiple coats. Between each coat, lightly sand (400
to 600 grit) and then tack cloth off. Because we used a two
part clear coat, the drying time was only about 30 min. be‐
tween coats. This takes a day to do, but only requires a few
minutes during each coat. Make sure you test fit your floor
boards in the airframe before you spend time and product
(money) to make sure everything fits. The front two
boards sit at a lower level. The back two boards sit in the
baggage bay area, and the middle board overlaps the front
baggage board slightly. The rear seat board gets attached
to the front baggage board with a piano hinge later during
final assembly.
Go ahead and set these boards in to place (after you are
done whatever finish you are doing to them). Starting
from the back, Lay the front and rear baggage boards in to
place, as shown in Figure #79.
Figure #79
Figure #78
Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #41
Using a 3/16 drill bit, you need to drill 3 holes evenly spaced
down the left and right side of each board. You are drilling
through the wood into the steel tray that supports the bag‐
gage bay. You need to measure how far the steel goes in
under the wood boards, and then half that amount. That
should be the distance you should drill your holes in from
the edge of the board. Locations shown in Figure #80.
Use 18 x 10‐32x1” machine screws and 18 x AN365‐1032A
lock nuts. It is recommend that as you drill each hole, drop
a screw through the hole before drilling the next one. You
don’t need to tighten them up until you are done drilling,
but this will keep the floor board from shifting around
while drilling. When you are ready to tighten the screws,
be careful to only make them snug. Don’t tighten too
much where the head of the screw starts to sink through
the wood. Place only a small amount of force on the
screws, so do not over tight.
Figure #81 shows 2 screws at each end on the rear board
and two screws at the back end of the front baggage
board. There are not screws at the front of the front bag‐
gage floor board. We will get to that later on in the man‐
ual.
Before installing any of the other floor boards, it is recom‐
mended to check for a correct fit of the front seat’s lower
frame. Doing this now, will make it much easier to access
the seat frame securing point locations.
Center the seat base tubes in to the four slots that support
them. Make sure the seat base is pushed down as far as
possible in to the tabs and centered left to right. If you find
one of the legs is off from the rest, average out the legs the
best you can. Unfortunately, steel tends to move slightly
as it is welded. Once all four legs are in position, drill
through the holes in the seat legs using a 3/16” drill bit. It
works best to drill through one side of the tube and then go
around to the other side. Slide a pin in to the first hole you
just drilled as you drill the other side. This pin will hold the
tube from shifting. When you get through the other side,
remove the pin and run the drill bit through the other side.
This will clean out and align the holes for the bolt. Repeat
this on all four holes.
Figure #80
Figure #81
Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #42
As each hole is drilled, insert 4 x AN3‐12A bolts. If you
find the holes too tight, go ahead and clean the hole out
with a #11 drill bit. Once all four holes are drilled, remove
the bolts and the seat base.
Using a ¼” x 20 tap (hardware store) clean out the threads
(remove paint) in the left & right torque tube travel stops.
This is located at the rear torque tube saddle and is de‐
signed to stop the stick when full travel is used left & right
on the control stick. Make sure you start the tap square in
the holes and the tap needs to line up with the threads that
are already there, as shown in Figure #82.
Install 2 – ¼” x 20 x 1 ¼” long bolts. They need to be
threaded the full length of the bolt. Each bolt gets a ¼”
plain nut as seen in Figure #83. These are just regular
hardware store bolts.
Set the #2 floor board in to place and then reinstall the
seat base. Put the four bolts back in to the holes. Then 4 x
AN960‐10 washers (one against nut) and 4 x AN365‐1032A
lock nuts, as shown in Figure #84.
Figure #82
Figure #83
Figure #84
Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #43
Find the 4 rudder pedals item #F25, the two hole mounting
plates item #F31 & 4 rudder return springs Part # D346000
(Wag‐Aero Part #). Place the return springs on the rudder
pedals as shown in Figure #85.
Use Lubriplate No. 630‐AA Aircraft Spruce part number 09‐
25400 (14 oz. can) and a acid brush (you can get the brush
at any hardware store). Apply the lithium grease to the
rotation point surfaces on each pedal.
It is recommend to check the fit of the front floor board.
Center the #2 floor board left to right. Using a 3/16” drill
bit you can drill up in to the rudder tabs (all of the rudder
tabs already holes in them). Place a block of wood on top
of the floor board to minimize any possible splintering dur‐
ing the drilling process. Drill up from the bottom, through
the bracket on each side of the pedal. After the first hole
has been drilled, place a 2 hole mounting plate item #F31
& AN3‐7A bolt through the hole from the top down. Re‐
check to see that the floor board is still centered and
square in the opening, drill next hole. Carry on until all 8
holes are drilled.
NOTE: You are drilling up through wood. Too much up pres‐
sure on the drill will cause the wood to break out as it breaks
through the top. Let the drill bit do the work, meaning you
can run the RPM of the drill fast but your upward feed rate is
to be slow.
Remove the front floor board. Starting with the left pedal,
drop the pedal down through the notch in the floor board
as seen in Figure #87. Turn the pedal to 90 degrees to the
left so it faces the direction it should when complete. The
top of pedal should be resting on the floor board (careful it
doesn’t scratch).
Figure #85
Figure #86
Figure #87
Section AF03A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #44
Apply Lubriplate grease to the two ends that will be rotat‐
ing in the saddles item #F26 & apply a light coat of grease
to each saddle, as shown in Figure #88.
At each hole location place a AN3‐7A bolt through the two
hole rudder pedal tab& through the floorboard. Then raise
the rudder pedal upward, you will need to pry the pedal’s
spring back and place one end of the saddle through the
bolt, place a AN960‐10 washer on the bolt and complete
with a AN365‐1032A lock nut.
Note: If you have a helper handy, the installation of this
assembly will be much easier with a second set of hands to
help hold the assembly together.
Repeat previous steps for the right side pedal.
To secure the 2nd front floor board drill from the underside
of the floorboard, the four tab locations using a 3/16” drill
bit. Remember to use the block of wood to reduce any
possible chip out or splintering.
At the rear two holes place a 10‐32 x 1” screw through a
AN970‐3 penny washer, as shown in Figure #90. Place the
screw through the top of the floor board then through the
metal tab. (The penny washer is required due to the slight
direction change to the floor board.)
Then place a AN365‐1032A nylock nut on the bottom of
each bolt. Example shown in Figure #91.
Figure #88
Figure #89
Figure #90
Figure #91
Section AF03B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Floor Boards –Page #45
Front Floor Board
Set the front floor boards in place. Drill the two back holes
after you have everything positioned and centered. 3/16”
drill again with 2 x 10‐32 x 1” machine screws, 2 x AN970‐3
penny washers, and 2 x AN365‐1032A locknuts. Just put
the nuts on the bottom finger tight (a few threads). These
are going to hold the board in position as we do more work
to it.
Tip up the front of the front floor board slightly (no more
than you need to) and slide in the brake reinforcement
plate item #F30. Align the plate’s holes to match the holes
in the floor board. The plate should be flush with the be‐
ginning edges of the two outside brake pedal holes, as
shown in Figure #93.
Front Rudder Pedals
The front rudder pedals will be an exact duplicate installa‐
tion process as the rear rudder pedal install.
To place the front pedals in place just lift up the front of the
floor board to slide the pedals in position, as shown if Fig‐
ure #94.
Figure #92
Figure #93
Figure #94
Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Pulleys & Cables –Page #46
Place the airframe on two saw horses. Make sure that the
pulley tabs along the bottom of the frame do not hit the
saw horses. It’s suggested to place a clean rag under the
back of the frame where it rests on the saw horse to reduce
any possible scratching. Location for a rag or towel shown
in Figure #95.
Clean out all 3/16” holes on the airframe with a ream tool.
Make sure that you run the reamer as square (90 degrees)
as possible you do not want to enlarge these holes but to
just clean any excess paint, example shown in Figure #96.
The cables should go in place before many of the pulleys
are installed. However, we are going to pre‐fit all of the
pulleys first. This may seem like a waist of time. But we
don’t want to risk damaging a cable while trying to adjust a
pulley. So, fit each pulley first & make sure that it spins
freely before installing the cable. If a bolt calls for a castle
nut, DON’T put the cotter pin in yet! Once you have fitted
and tried each pulley, then you may install the cable.
Figure #97 shows a map of the five 2 3/4” pulleys in the
flap system.
Figure #96
Figure #95
Figure #97
Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Pulleys & Cables –Page #47
The 2 3/4” pulleys usually work without any needed adjust‐
ments. You will also notice that there is a tab at each loca‐
tion that keeps the cable from slipping off the pulley. You
will need to make sure that the cable is in the pulley groove
as you install the pulley, as shown in Figure #98.
The order of assembly for four out of the five pulleys will be
to first place a AN970‐5 large penny washer through a
AN5‐16A bolt, then run the bolt through a 2 3/4” pulley and
then through the air frame’s bushing. Place two AN960‐
516 washers on the end of the bolt and complete with a
AN365‐524A locknut.
The lower left side pulley will need to be assembled differ‐
ently. The bolt will have to be placed in from the inside out
so that you will be able to replace latter on with out having
to damage the aircraft’s fabric. To install the pulley place
the AN5‐16A bolt through the bushing, the threads of the
bolt should be pointing outward. Then place the 2 3/4”
pulley on to the bolt, place a AN970‐5 large washer on the
bolt and complete with a AN365‐524A locknut. Example
shown in Figure #99.
Sub‐assemble the top elevator bracket item #F11 to the
turnbuckle on item #C5 use a AN3‐5A Bolt, AN960‐10
washer, then a AN310‐3 Castle nut and complete with a
MS24665‐132 cotter pin.
The bottom elevator bracket item #F12 will be placed on
to item #C6 it too will use a AN3‐5A Bolt, AN960‐10
washer, then a AN310‐3 Castle nut and complete with a
MS24665‐132 cotter pin, assembly shown in Figure #100.
Use a small zip tie and secure both the top and bottom
brackets to the end of the airframe as shown in Figure
#101. Rest the cables along the lower center of the air‐
frame and up toward the torque tube.
Figure #99
Figure #98
Figure #101
Figure #100
Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Pulleys & Cables –Page #48
There are two sets of two pulleys that carry these cables.
The bronze bushings should be reamed out with a #11
(0.091”) drill that allows them to freely spin on a AN3 bolt.
The cables lie between the brackets before the pulleys go
in (after you have already pre‐fit the pulleys). Install each
set of two pulleys with one AN3‐12 bolt, one AN960‐10
washer on the head. Slide the bolt through the bracket
and pulleys and install another AN960‐10 washer and a
AN310‐3 castle nut. Install a Ms24665‐132 (1/16” x ½”)
cotter pin, as shown in Figure #102.
Place the longest cable through the rear torque tube base
& then through the small around hole at the front side of
the base. The example in Figure #103 shows the front base
facing forward.
Then place a fairlead in to the torque tube base, as shown
in Figure #104.
Run the cable under the front floor board, then loop the
cable around a 2 ¾” pulley. Place the end of the cable on
the top of the front floor board. Use a AN5‐10 Bolt with a
AN960‐516 washer on the head of the bolt. Thread the
bolt through the airframe and place a 2 ¾” pulley through
the bolt, then thread the bolt through the other end of the
airframe bracket. Place a AN960‐516 washer on the bolt,
then place a AN310‐5 castle nut on the end of the bolt,
place a MS24665‐138 cotter pin at the end of the bolt.
Then use a MS24665‐138 cotter pin and place it through
the pulley’s bracket. Assembly shown in Figure #105.
Figure #102
Figure #103
Figure #104
Figure #105
Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Torque Tube Assembly –Page #49
Install a 1” pulley on the bottom of the control stick torque
tube, item #F19 . Place a AN3‐7 bolt through a AN960‐10
washer then run the bolt through the one side of the
torque tube bracket. Place a 1” pulley between the pulley
brackets & run the bolt all the way through the other side.
Place a AN960‐10 washer on the end of the bolt and spin
on a AN310‐3 castle nut. Place a MS24665‐132 cotter pin
through the bolt and bend. Place the front cable between
the pulley’s brackets and use a MS24665‐132 cotter pin to
keep the cable from falling out.
Note: Ensure to have the pulley at the rear of the tube as
shown in Figure #106.
Lubriplate the front & rear torque tube saddles, as shown
in Figure #107.
Place the torque tube in the saddles. The front saddle will
fit in between the two collars of the torque tube. The two
collars will keep the torque tube from any unwanted sliding
from front to back. Figure #108 shows a close up shot of
the two welded collars.
Lubriplate the top covers for each saddle and set them in
place, as shown in Figure #109 & #110.
Figure #106
Figure #107
Figure #108
Figure #110 Figure #109
Section AF01 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Torque Tube Assembly –Page #50
At all the four bolt hole locations place a AN4‐14A bolt
through a AN960‐416 washer, run the bolt through the
torque tube saddle and place a AN365‐428A locknut on
the end of the bolt.
Place the control stick connecting rod item #F20 through
the torque tub, as shown in Figure #112.
Clean the attachment points of the control stick pivots,
item #F22 with a 1/4” ream. Some power coat paint may
have built up in these areas. Slide a AN4‐23 bolt in each
attachment point to check to see if it pivots freely. Place a
AN4‐23 bolt through a AN960‐416 washer place one of
the control stick pivots in to the torque tube and thread the
bolt though it, as shown in Figure #113. Place another
AN960‐416 washer on the end of the bolt, then thread on
a AN310‐4 castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐134
cotter pin.
Repeat the same steps for the rear control stick pivot.
Place the front elevator cable connecting point to the con‐
trol stick connecting rod item #F20, then place the control
stick pivot item #F22 over the two other items. You will
see by the spacing of the metal on each piece, there is only
one way these three parts can connect together in order to
be centered, as shown in Figure #114. Place a AN24‐14
clevis bolt through the aligned holes, then a AN960‐416L
washer, spin on a AN320‐4 shear nut and complete the
assembly with a MS24665‐281 cotter pin.
The assembly for the rear of the torque tube will be the
exact same process. Figure #115 shows the rear assembly
fully assembled.
Figure #112
Figure #113
Figure #114
Figure #115
Figure #111
Section AF02 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Cables Installation –Page #51
Rudder Cables
The rudder cables consist of a left and right that are identi‐
cal. They have a long and a short length cable that are
crimped together. This allows for the double rudder pedal
connection, final assembly shown in Figure #116.
Take a AN3‐5 bolt and place a AN960‐10 washer through
it. Run the bolt from the inside of the rudder pedal through
the pedal and place a AN960‐10 washer on the end of the
bolt then place the rudder cable attachment point through
the bolt, use another AN960‐10 washer, spin on a AN310‐3
castle nut and complete with a MS24665‐132 cotter pin.
Assembly example shown in Figure #117.
Repeat this assembly for the other three rudder pedals.
When all four pedals are attached, run the cables from the
rear rudder pedal & place each cable between the 1 ¾” pul‐
ley tabs, shown in Figure #118. Then through the four
lower airframe bushings, two per side.
Secure both rudder cables to the tail post with zip ties, as
shown in Figure #119.
Figure #116
Figure #117
Figure #118
Figure #119
Section AF02 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Cables Installation –Page #52
Then install the rudder pedal cable fairlead bushings in to
the airframe, as shown in Figure #120. Place the fairlead
bushings from the front of the airframe to the rear, the
medal retainer clip will be on the rear side of the airframe’s
bushings.
Note: All fairlead bushings will be orientated the same way
through out the airframe.
Install a 1 ¾” pulley on each side (left & right cable) which
is located at the forward ending point of the baggage com‐
partment floor. Take a AN3‐10 bolt and place a AN960‐10
washer through it. Run the bolt through on side of the pul‐
ley tab and place a 1 ¾” pulley between the tabs. Slide the
bolt all the way through and then place two AN960‐10
washers on the end of the bolt, spin on a AN310‐3 castle
nut and complete the assembly with a MS24665‐132 cotter
pin. An example of the assembly shown in Figure #121
with out cotter pin.
Install a 1 ¾” pulley on each side of the airframe, just
above the lower lift strut attachment point. Use a AN3‐7
bolt run a AN960‐10 washer through the bolt then slide
the bolt half way through the pulley attachment point then
place the 1 ¾” pulley between the tabs. Place a AN960‐10
washer on the end of the bolt, spin on a AN310‐3 castle nut
and complete the installation with a MS24665‐132 cotter
pin. Example shown in Figure #122. These two pulleys are
for the aileron control. The cables for these pulleys will be
connected when the wings are attached. The aileron con‐
trol cables run down the lift struts and attach to the bot‐
tom of the torque tube.
Figure #120
Figure #121
Figure #122
Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #53
Take a 3/32” drill bit and drill 8 holes through the underside
of the brake reinforcement plate item #F30 and though
front floor board. Place a block of wood on top of the front
floor board and apply downward pressure on the block of
wood during the drilling process. This will reduce any un‐
wanted splintering of your floor board. As you drill each
hole drop a AN3‐15A bolt through the hole from the top
down. The bolts will keep the plate from shifting as you
drill the remaining holes, as seen in Figure #123.
When all eight holes have been drilled, remove the four
center AN3‐15A bolts. Find the set of two holed mounting
plates, item #F31 then place 2 bolts in each plate. Run the
bolts with the plates though the top of the front floor
board. Then remove the remaining four bolts and repeat
the same steps, as shown in Figure #124.
Find the brake pedal spacer blocks item #F29. Notice that
two of the blocks have a notch in them. The notch is
meant to clear the structural tube of the airframe. Install
the blocks on to the bottom of the AN3‐15A bolts, as seen
in Figure #125.
Find the heel brake pedals item #F27. At the end of each
brake pedal is a 3/16” hole. Clean each of these holes out
with a 0.190” drill. Now you can manipulate the brake ped‐
als in to the hole in the floor board. Start with the pedal
facing the back of the airframe and upside down as seen in
Figure #126.
Figure #124
Figure #123
Figure #125
Figure #126
Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #54
Get the first third of the pedal in to the hole and turn the
pedal 90 degrees, seen in Figure #127.
When you are finished your pedal should sit in the position
shown in Figure #128.
Install 2 brake pedal saddles item #F28 under each pedal
as seen in Figure #129. Apply a small amount of lithium
grease to the inside of each saddle where the pedal will
rotate. Then place a AN960‐10 washer and a AN365‐
1032A locknut on each bolt. Tighten the nuts making sure
the pedals swing freely in the saddles. If for some reason
the saddles are too tight and don’t swing, you may need to
add a shim between the spacer block and the saddle. A
thin washer may do the trick. Make sure it swings freely
but don’t make it any looser than you have to.
Now set your rear brake pedal assemblies on the floor.
You will notice an angle change on the bottom of the rear
pedal assembly. That angle change should be centered
over the seam between the first and second floor board,
location example shown in Figure #130.
Figure #127
Figure #128
Figure #129
Figure #130
Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #55
Note: Our new kits come with a rod end bearing package.
These new items get installed on to the brake connecting
rods, they are not required for the older kits but many
like the new addition because of the feel and look of the
break pedal.
Find the brake connecting rods item #F37 & #F37B rod
end bearing package. Assemble the nut on to the threaded
ends then run screw on the bearings to each rod. Leave
the jam nuts loose at this time, you will have to set the
length of each rod before the jam nut can be tighten.
Attach the rod end to the front pedal using a AN3‐7 bolt
with an AN970‐3 Penny washer on the head of the bolt.
Than an AN960‐3 regular washer, the rod end, the pedal,
another AN960‐3 washer and the AN310‐3 Castle Nut.
The purpose of the large penny washer is to act as a safety
mechanism if the bearing ever failed. The penny washer
would keep the body of the rod end from sliding off the
bolt.
Repeat the same sequence on the rear pedal to attach the
rod end except you will use the next size longer bolt (1 –
AN3‐10). Than the penny washer, regular washer, rod end,
brake pedal body, regular washer, castle nut. Don’t forget
to install a cotter pin in each castle nut when you are fin‐
ished.
Once the rods are attached, position the rear brake pedals
by sliding them left or right so that the connecting rod is
just on the outboard side of the inner two holed tab for
each pedal as seen in Figure #131. Remember that the
angle change on the bottom of the rear pedal mounting
arm has to stay directly over the seam between the first
and second floor board. Make sure the rear rudder pedal
does not interfere with the operation of the connecting
rod.
Make sure that the front brake pedals are swung to the
rear (hitting the floor board) of the aircraft before your drill
any holes for the rear pedal position.
Figure #131
Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #56
When you are certain that your Rear pedals are even and
symmetrical from the centerline of the airframe you can
drill 3/16” holes through the floor boards through the brake
pedal. Only drill the two outside holes and the rear inside
hole.
You can see in Figure #132 that the inside front hole may
hit the structural tubing. The main idea is to get at least
one bolt to go through the mounting plate welded to the
airframe. Install a penny washer on the bottom where ever
you are able. It may not look pretty on the bottom side but
as long as one bolt catches the steel you are OK.
Install a AN3‐10 bolt through each hole with either a penny
washer or regular washer (whichever you can get in) and
AN365‐1032 locknuts at each bolt.
Reservoir Installation
Place the reservoir in a location that is pleasing to you.
Some have placed it ahead of the front seat & other have
placed it under. In this manual we will install the reservoir
under the seat, as shown in Figure #133.
You will now have to cut a small metal plate to hold the
reservoir on to. Measure the two holes on the reservoir and
mark the measurements on the plate. Leave enough room
on the top side of the metal plate to place two holes to
secure the metal plate to the inside of the seat frame.
Drill the two holes in to the plate for the reservoir and place
10 32 x3/8” Machine screw through the plate and in to the
reservoir.
Place a AN825‐4D Tee fitting in the bottom of the reser‐
voir and have the Tee pointing left and right of the bracket.
Figure #132
Figure #133
Figure #134
Section AF08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake System Installation –Page #57
Leave enough room on the upper side of the metal plate so
that two holes could be made to secure the metal plate to
the inside of the seat frame. Place the reservoir assembly
centered above the control stick torque tube and drill two
1/8” holes through the metal plate and in to the seat frame.
Use two 1/8” pop rivets to secure to the seat frame. Loca‐
tion shown in Figure #135.
Install two AN822‐4D 90° fittings in to each brake master
cylinders. Have the two rear fitting pointing up.
You may now drill out the two holes for the brake lines that
will go through the front floor board and in to the gear
legs. Have the holes placed well enough so that the lines
will not rub the floor board as they go through it.
When the holes are been cut out of the floor board, place a
AN822‐4D 90° fitting in to the front of each master cylin‐
ders, an example is shown in Figure #136.
Note: When the fabric covering has been complete and the
gear legs have been installed you will be able to measure the
length of each needed brake line and have a professional
company cut an crimp stainless steel brake lines for you. We
found that the length of brake lines needed was about 12” for
the brake lines from the reservoir to the rear side of the mas‐
ter cylinder & 28” lines from the gear legs to the front side of
the master cylinder.
Measure the distance for each brake line on your aircraft to
be safe!!
Figure #135
Figure #136
Section AF07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Gear Leg assembly –Page #58
This section will cover the steps required to make your gear legs ready for fabric covering. Normally gear legs are fab‐ric covered but some people choose not to cover them, due to the fact that the fabric might get damaged by brush or debris in rough landing areas. You need to decide on the final look of the aircraft and its functionality. People who might decide against fabric on the legs are after a true Bush plane look and feel. In this tutorial we will be running the brake lines inside of the gear legs regardless of your covering decision.
Run the rigid brake line down each main gear leg so that it can be hidden inside the fabric covering of the gear leg. One side will attach to the brake caliper (wheel end) and the other end will attach to a flexible line. This flex line is needed because the gear leg rotates about the two mount‐ing bolts on the airframe.
All of the following instructions are for one gear leg. Re‐peat each step for the opposite gear leg (do the same step for each before proceeding to the next step) but remember to mirror each step.
First clean out the two mounting tabs with a #11 ream, as shown in Figure #137.
Ream the power coated paint out of the lower mounting plate’s four holes, take great care that you do not enlarge these holes, as shown in Figure #138.
Figure #138
Figure #137
Section AF07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Gear Leg assembly –Page #59
To determine the correct length of the brake lines, you will need to install item #L6 brake calipers first.
Place the mounting plate so that the two bushing face for‐ward. The four holes in the plate should line up with the gear leg plate. Temporary Install a under sized bolt in one of the four holes to hold the plate in place, as seen in Fig‐ure #139.
Install a AN822‐4 90 degree elbow in to the caliper. Apply Loctite 545 on to the threads of the elbow before installing. Be sure not to mark up the anodized elbow when installing, as it will be easily seen by many.
The caliper slides in to the mounting plate on the inboard side of the plate, as shown in Figure #141.
Start at the bottom of your gear leg. Use a tubing bender to make a 90 degree bend, leave about 3 inches extra length on the tube than you need to attach to the caliper. It’s better to have extra when making a bend like this and trim some off after the bend has been made.
Figure #139
Figure #140
Figure #141
Figure #142
Section AF07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Gear Leg assembly –Page #60
Place the 90° bend toward the caliper’s 90° fitting and
measure up to the top of the gear leg. Again leave a few
inches extra and cut the brake line. Install two Adel clamps
around the brake line. Place screws through the clamps
and in to the gear legs weld tabs.
Do not place any nuts on the screw just yet. We just need
the brake line to be held in place as you do a measurement
from the lower brake line to the 90 degree fittings threads.
Have the excess brake line lay on top of the caliper’s 90
degree fitting. Make a mark on the brake line located just
before the 90° threading with a pencil or marker. Remove
the brake line from the gear leg and cut the brake line with
tubing cutters, as shown if Figure #143.
Install a nut, sleeve and put a flange on the tube.
Place the tube back on to the gear leg, use both Adel
clamps to hold the brake line in place as before. Place the
brake line nut on to the 90 degree fitting finger tight.
Figure #143
Figure #144
Figure #145
Section AF07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Gear Leg assembly –Page #61
A 45° bend goes at the top of the gear leg. Determine
where you want the 45° bend and the end of the tube.
Mark the location on the brake line and remove. Make
your 45° bend, cut the brake line and install the other nut
and sleeve as shown in previous steps.
If you plan on covering the gear legs the tube can stay
where it is. Place the locknut on the ends of each screw
and tighten. Cap the ends of the brake lines to prevent any
contamination in the lines. It is also a good idea to rap the
exposed ends in masking tape to keep them clean during
the covering steps.
If you don’t want to cover the gear leg, remove the brake
lines. Make sure you label the lines left and right. You can
paint the lines separately if you like. How ever it is not ad‐
vised to paint the Adel clamps because the paint will crack
off of the rubber later on.
The end result after fabric covering will be the brake lines
protruding from the fabric at each end as shown in Figures
#149 & 150.
Figure #146
Figure #147
Figure #148
The final brake line assembly with out fabric cover‐
ing will look like Figures #146, 147 & 148.
Figure #149
Figure #150
Section AF06A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel Valve Modification –Page #62
We are going to do a little modification to the fuel valve
(Aircraft Spruce Part # 6749). When you receive this valve
take a look at the internal plastic barrel. You can see from
the outside (with out taking it apart) that the barrel only
has two holes in it. This would only let you select either left
tank or right tank, NOT BOTH. You are going to add a
third hole to this barrel which will allow a “BOTH TANK fuel
feed selection”. You may feel like this is something you
shouldn’t be messing with but have no worries. This is
very easy to do, and when you are finished it will look like a
factory manufactured hole.
Lets get the valve out on the bench and begin! First thing
is to loosen the nut that holds it together and remove the
barrel. You will see a retainer plate (Brass) that needs to
stay flat as it comes out. If the barrel is not coming out
easily you need to slightly adjust the angle of that plate
(only a few degrees) and it should fall out.
Now look inside the valve, you should see three directions
the fuel can take. By not adding the third hole to the barrel
you would have a left tank, right tank, off & off positions.
These would be the four positions as you rotated the valve.
Figure #151
Figure #152
Figure #153
Figure #154
Section AF06A Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel Valve Modification –Page #63
Hole #3 will be directly across from hole #1, as shown in
Figure #155. To create this new hole location place a
19/64” drill bit in to hole #1 and drill from the inside out .
Take your time when drilling out this hole, the plastic is
very soft and it should drill very easily. As you drill, do your
best to keep the sides of the bit from touching hole #1.
Take a 3/8” drill bit and re‐drill the hole.
Using a needle file carefully file the edges of the new hole.
File inward strokes going around the hole. The idea is that
when you are done, your hole will look just like the other
two.
When you are finished filing, completely clean the valve of
any bits of plastic. Wipe it down, inside and out. You can
use compressed air gun to blow out any possible filings.
The bottom line is to remove any debris from going inside
the fuel system.
Reassembly the valve and tighten the nut back up.
Figure #155
Figure #156
Figure #157
Figure #158
Section AF06B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel System –Page #64
The fuel system will have four suction lines to it. One from
the front and one from the back of each wing tank. This
allows the aircraft to suck fuel in a nose up attitude (from
the back line) or a nose down attitude (from the front line).
Having these two feeds from each tank will eliminate a
“header tank” requirement which original Piper’s used.
Place two elbows & two tee’s in to the fuel valve. They will
hit the airframe tubes if you try to screw them in after the
valve is mounted. Place some sealant on the threads of all
the fuel fittings that don’t accept a flanged tube. We rec‐
ommend Loctite 545 as a good sealant. Use just a few
drops of Loctite to cover the threads on the male side of
your connections. After the two elbows and two tees are in
place (hold the valve up to the airframe to see if any valves
could hit the airframe tubing. Make any needed adjust‐
ments needed to the tees. To secure the fuel selector valve
in place, use two AN3‐4A bolts and run them from the in‐
side of the airframe out to the fuel selector the use a
AN960‐10 washer on each bolt and complete with AN365‐
1032A locknuts, as shown in Figure #159.
Figure #160 shows the fuel switch parts map.
The fuel switch will use.
1x Fuel valve P/N 6747
5x Nuts
2x AN825‐6D Tees
1x AN822‐6D Elbow
1x AN914‐2D Elbow
Figure #159
Figure #160
Section AF06B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel System –Page #65
It is suggested to run all of your fuel lines before making
any connections. It would be a waste of time if you flared
the tubing and ending up kinking the line as you are bend‐
ing them. Figure #161 shows a map of where the fuel line
are to be connected and routed from the fuel switch.
Figure #162 shows the fuel line routing. The BLUE line is
the right side fuel line, the RED is the left side fuel line &
the arrows indicate where to install the Adel clamps.
Route the rear fuel lines under the center of the airframe,
toward the drain plug location, as shown in Figure #163.
Along the lower left side of the airframe there will be a
mounting bracket for the fuel drain tees. Install two
AN825‐6D tees facing front to back in the bracket, secure
the tees to the airframe with AN924‐6D bulkhead nuts.
Place AN910‐2D couplings on the bottom of each tee, then
place the CAV‐160 safe‐air drains in to each coupling, as
shown in Figure #164. Loctite each joint.
Figure #161
Figure #162
Figure #163
Figure #164
Section AF06B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel System –Page #66
Route the fuel lines back around the left side of the air‐
frame, as shown in Figure #165.
To secure the left side fuel lines, butterfly the adel clamps
together P/N MS21919WDG6, use two 10‐32 truss head
S/S screws & two 10‐32 locknuts on each Adel clamp. In‐
stall the truss head screws pointing toward the cabin
shown in Figure #166.
The fuel lines will now split off left & right up to the wing.
Place two Adel clamps along both side diagonal weld tube
tabs. Use four 10‐32 truss head S/S screws & four 10‐32
locknuts on each Adel clamp. Install the truss head screws
pointing toward the cabin as shown in Figure #167.
When routing the fuel lines, ensure that no fuel line rubs or
chafes against anything. Figure #168 shows an area where
the fuel line is very close to rubbing on the pulley bolt.
Make sure that the lines are secure and if needed cable tie
them together.
Figure #165
Figure #166
Figure #167
Figure #168
Section AF06B Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel System –Page #67
When securing fuel lines to the airframe you may use zip
ties. You will need two zip ties for each fuel line. The first
zip tie will be loosely tied around the airframe tube then
the second zip tie will go around the fuel line and through
the 1st zip tie. Then tighten both ties together. This proc‐
ess will eliminate any possible rubbing between the fuel
lines and the airframe. An example is shown in Figure
#169.
Figure #170 shows the routing of the two front fuel lines.
You may use a single zip tie in different locations to secure
the fuel line to the airframe.
The left side fuel line has a very sharp bend in it, be very
careful not to kink the fuel line in the area shown in Figure
#171.
When routing the two front fuel lines leave about two
inches running parallel with the bottom of the wing. End
these about even with the front and rear wing pickup fit‐
tings. Plug the ends of these tubes 04‐0049 plugs and tape
over, to ensure no debris could get in to them during the
covering process, as shown in Figure #172.
When you are satisfied with the lengths and bends in your
tubes, flare the ends. Remember that before you make a
flare, make sure you slide the nut and then the sleeve on.
You do not Loctite these connections. The sleeve com‐
presses the aluminum flared tube and makes a tight seal.
Don’t over tighten these. Make them snug but not super
tight.
Figure #169
Figure #170
Figure #171
Figure #172
Section AF11 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Battery Cables & Ground wire –Page #68
The preferred position to mount your battery is under the
rear seat. You can mount the battery in other locations,
but this section will describe the under seat location. With
today's COl ignition systems (electronic) and the glass pan‐
eled display options available we have noticed that it is
better to run a separate negative line direct from the bat‐
tery forward to a bus located under the instrument panel
instead of using the airframe as a ground.
The under seat storage box seen in Figure #173 is an extra
option not included with the kit. You can build your own or
buy one from us. Our battery box kit comes with three ex‐
tra pieces that make up the battery box. The battery can be
mounted on either side of the box.
We designed the battery box to hold an Odyssey Gel Cell
Battery (Aircraft Spruce P/N# 1102233). It is a 68O AMP
battery that will supply more than sufficient for power for
your aircrafts applications. The displayed battery is sealed
so you can lay it on it's side and not need to worry about
any needed venting. Figure #174 shows our battery on its
side.
There is also room beside the battery to mount a constant
duty solenoid (Aircraft Spruce # 111226) as shown in Fig‐
ure #175. This allows you to shut off all battery power
which you can control from a battery "Master" switch lo‐
cated in the instrument panel. (Aircraft Spruce # 11‐
15900) and the mounting plate (Aircraft Spruce #
1115910). This is a Cessna style split switch that allows you
to control the battery master solenoid on one half of the
switch and the alternator field circuit on the other half of
the switch.
Figure #173
Figure #174
Figure #175
Section AF11 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Battery Cables & Ground wire –Page #69
When routing the wiring from the battery box location, we
found that the best way to start the wires is from the bat‐
tery box going forward under the floor boards toward the
firewall. You can see in Figure #176 this airframe used the
frame as a ground. Make two runs of the #2 gauge wire
leaving about 12" extra wire where you think each wire will
end. Route the wire toward the center of the airframe,
then down along right side of the stringer. Running the
ground wire in this matter will maximize the amount of
room needed to not touch the fabric. Route 3 runs of #14
gauge wire and secure them with the 2 #2 gauge wire.
Use zip ties to secure the wires as you go. When cutting
the zip ties pay particular attention to the cut ends make
sure that when you cut the excess tie off that no sharp
edges could possibly contact the fabric locations. Do you
best to cut the ties flush!
When securing the wires you want to isolate the wire from
the steel tube. An example of this is seen in Figure #177
showing the use of two tie wraps. First the tie wrap goes
around the steel tube but it is not pulled tight. This allows
you to get the second tie wrap around the wire (or in this
photo tubing) and through the first tie wrap. Tighten the
tie wrap around the wire first, then the tie wrap around the
steel tube. This method keeps the wire or tubing from
chaffing (rubbing) against the steel tube and causing elec‐
trical shorts or failures.
You may notice some steel tabs under the airframe by the
front seat, you could use the tabs to secure the electrical
cabling to them, or use zip ties and secure the cables to the
airframes tubs as shown in the previous step. The main
idea is to ensure no rubbing, chaffing could ever happen!
Keep the cabling as close to the airframe as possible you
don’t want to see them protruding out and touching the
fabric.
Place the electrical wiring along the right side center of the
airframe until you get just past the location of where your
side cheek meets with the boot cowl. Run the wires over to
the right side of the airframe, they will go around the bot‐
tom of the lower longeron (On the outside) and run
straight up and over the outside of the top longeron. Fig‐
ure #178 shows the electrical harness coming out of the
lower front as described.
Figure #176
Figure #177
Figure #178
Section AF11 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Battery Cables & Ground wire –Page #70
The arrow pointing in Figure #179 shows that there is
enough space between the airframe and the boot cowl to
allow you to run the wires on the outside of the airframe.
Secure the wire to the steel tubes using zip ties. Leave
enough wire to reach over and touch the left upper
longeron so that you won't be short reaching anywhere on
the electrical control panel.
Wiring diagram is shown on the next page. The diagram
shows the requirement to make 2 runs from the battery
positive & Negative to a Positive & Negative Buss bar lo‐
cated behind the instrument panel. The master solenoid
will get placed in the battery box with a 14 gauge wire run‐
ning from the solenoid to the master switch on the instru‐
ment panel as shown in Figure #180. It is also a good idea
to run a couple extra 14 gauge lines from the battery box to
the panel for any possible future use. An example would
be if you want to have a constant power line to run a clock
or a cigarette lighter socket to power any hand held elec‐
tronics.
When you are complete with this section, you should have
5 wires (2 ‐ #2 Gauge & 3 ‐ #14 Gauge) running from the
battery box location to the rear side of the instrument
panel. Make sure that to leave an extra 12" at each end.
Now just secure the loose ends to the frame so they don't
get in the way during the covering process.
Figure #179
Figure #180
Figure #181
Section AF11 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Battery Cables & Ground wire –Page #71
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #72
Introduction
This section has been created for those who has purchased
our interior panel kit. Those who have chosen not to buy
this kit, the proceeding steps will still be a major help when
fitting your created panels in to place.
Place the left front side panel in to position. Start by slid‐
ing the panel between the floor board and airframe. At
this point you will need to mark a center hole location for
the fuel switch. The size of the hole for the switch will vary
depending on the size and type of switch you have chosen.
Figure #183 shows where we drilled the fuel switch hole.
After you have drilled out the needed hole, place the panel
back in to the airframe. Check to see that the front edge of
the panel runs parallel with the front airframe tube, check
the fit of the panel around each welded corner of the air‐
frame, these areas may require the interior panel to be
filed to fit. When the panel sits flat & square against the
airframe, secure the panel using either spring clamps or
rare earth magnets to the airframe. You want to make
sure that the panel will not shift around when you are
about to drill out the needed holes. Use a #30 drill bit and
drill through the tab and through the panel at each attach‐
ment point. Place a cleco in to each hole right after you
have drilled, as shown in Figure #184.
Figure #182
Figure #183
Figure #184
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #73
Take the second left side panel and fit it in place. You may
need to trim out the top front corner of the panel so that it
will fit flat around the door frame.
Depending on if you have a single door aircraft or you have
ordered a duel door, the following steps will change
slightly. A two door aircraft will require some trimming
around the door frame. Place the panel flat against the
airframe and mark around the door frame with a magic
marker, as shown in Figure #185. The lower rear line will
be drawn straight pass the rear side of the door frame.
Remove the panel from the aircraft. Measure 3/8” out from
the outlined mark that you just drawn and mark the new
measurement on your panel. This new measurement is to
enlarge the opening for your door. The larger opening is
needed so that the panel will fit in the door frame channel
after the panel has been fabric covered. Use a straight
edge to connect your new measurements. When you have
created the second new set of lines cut the unwanted ma‐
terial out of the panel & file any sharp edges.
Place the panel back in to the airframe again to check for
correct fit, you may need to file the panel to fit around the
welded corners, make any needed trimming to the panel
for that perfect fit. Place the panel under the door frame
channels when complete.
Drill through the tab holes and in to the panel, place clecos
in the drilled locations after each hole has been drilled.
Figure #185
Figure #186
Figure #187
Figure #188
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #74
To connect the 1st & 2nd panels together, measure from
the top of the throttle post 3/4” and mark. Then measure
from the bottom of the throttle post 3/4” and place a mark.
Measure 6” down from your 2nd marked location & place a
mark, then mark a location 3/4” from the top of the flap
control tube. Then measure from the bottom of the panel
up 1 1/4” & mark. Have all of your marks centered along
the safety edge of the 1st panel. Use a 1/8” drill bit to drill
each location, cleco each hole after drilling as shown in
Figure #189.
Take your lower rear panel and fit in to position. If you
have a baggage door option you will need to trim the panel
around the door channel to fit. Figure #190 shows the
panel trimmed around the baggage door. Hold the panel
in place and mark around the frame. Cut & file the panel to
fit. Place the panel back in position & hold in place. Drill
each tab locations & cleco in place.
Take the 4th left side panel, carefully place it in to the air‐
frame. Check the fit of the panel around the welded areas
and mark any area that is needed to be filed or cut down. If
you have a baggage door option then trace out the door
opening as shown in Figure #191. Remove the panel from
the airframe, then measure .6” around the traced area.
The .6” enlargement is needed so that the panel can fit
around the baggage door frame and allow the interior fab‐
ric to be wrapped around the panel. Use a straight edge to
connect your new measurements, then cut out the bag‐
gage door hole.
It is suggested to drill out the four corners of your baggage
door cut out with a drill bit. The drilled holes should be
large enough so that it would allow a pair of snips to start
cutting the hole. When drilling the four holes make sure
that the drill bit doesn’t go past your .6” line. Use a pair of
snips to cut out the unwanted material. Take your time
cutting out the baggage door opening. File any sharp
edges when complete, as shown in Figure #192.
Figure #189
Figure #190
Figure #191
Figure #192
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #75
Place the panel back in to the aircraft and check for fit.
When you are satisfied with the fit, drill and place clecos in
to each tab.
Place the 3rd left side panel in to position. The rear side of
the panel will fit under the 4th panel’s small step. The for‐
ward side of the 3rd panel will slide just under the door
frame channel. You will only want about 3/8” of the panel
to be under the door frame channel. Having the panel fit
too tight against the door frame channel will make it very
difficult to fit the panel back in place when it is fabric cov‐
ered. Look over the panel to see if any area needs to be
trimmed. When you are satisfied with the fit of the panel
drill through the tabs and through the panel. Place clecos
in each hole after drilling.
To secure the lower portion of the 3rd & 4th panels you will
need to drill through the lower steel bracket and through
the panels. When placing the measurements along the
lower steel frame, measure no lower then 1/4” from the top
edge down of the steel frame. Any lower, the timberman
nuts that you will be using will not fit correctly. When
measuring the distance between the hole locations we sug‐
gest to place the holes parallel to the holes above as shown
in Figure #195.
Drill and place clecos in each hole.
Figure #193
Figure #194
Figure #195
Figure #196
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #76
From the inside of the airframe place 3 marks along the
bent channel. Have the holes evenly spaced and a 1/4”
along the edge of the panel to allow the timberman nuts to
fit in. Place clecos in the drilled holes as shown in Figure
#197.
The right side panels will be installed using the same steps.
The only difference is the 3rd & 4th panels will not have the
small step between them. Install the front panel first then
work your way toward the back, fit, drill then cleco each
panel. Depending on what size door frames you have or‐
dered you may need to enlarge the hole in the panel to fit
around the door frame. The airframe shown in Figure
#198 has the oversized door frame as you can see our
standard interior panel will need to be trimmed to fit.
If you have a right side baggage door trace out the door
area and enlarge the opening .6”. The drawn enlarged area
is displayed in Figure #199. The rest of the right side pan‐
els will follow the same steps as the left side.
C Window frame install
To install the upper interior panels for the C window style
airframe you will first find the multi cut trim strips. Clamp
the lower strips in place and mark the support rail location.
Remove the strip and cut out the unwanted material. Fig‐
ure #200 shows the trim strip cut to fit.
Figure #197
Figure #198
Figure #199
Figure #200
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #77
The outer side of the trim strips will fit inside the metal
channel as shown in Figure #201. When both window trim
strips are cut to fit clamp both top and bottom of each
strip.
Mark a center hole in the upper airframe tabs there will be
a total of 7 taps that will need to be drilled with a #30 drill
bit.
The upper interior panels go together like Lego. Do not
start drilling any of the panels until the back, top & sides
are in place. The 1st panel you need to install will be the
top rear panel. You can use tape to hold in place for the
time being. Then the top panel will fit under the rear
panel, check for correct fit around the upper airframe. Use
tape or magnets to hold the top panel in place. Install the
side panels last. Figure #203 shows the panels secured
with tape.
When all four panels are in place allow the rear top panel to
lean forward to but the ends of the side panels. The lower
end of the rear panel will be secured to the airframe but the
upper side will only be secured to the top panel along the
fold. An example of how it should look is shown in Figure
#204.
Figure #201
Figure #202
Figure #203
Figure #204
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #78
When the side panels have a nice fit around the rear and
top panel drill the tab locations and cleco both sides to
hold in place. Then have a helper push up on the top panel
and drill through the tab holes and through the panel, cleco
each hole to secure the panel. Then drill three holes along
the bottom of the rear panel and cleco to hold the panel in
place. Place four evenly spaced marks along the top rear
panel. These four locations will secure the rear panel to the
top of the top panel. Drill and cleco each mark. Figure
#205 shows the clecos installed.
Mark the excess material around both window frames.
Remove the side panels and trim out the unwanted mate‐
rial.
Find the front wing root cover plates and tape on to the
airframe, then place the side window frame covers in place.
We used rare earth magnets to hold the covers in place as
shown in Figure #207. You will have to do a bit of trimming
around the side window panels to have them fit perfectly.
Place the wind root covers in to position check around the
welded tubes for any fit issues mark and trim any areas
needed. The bottom end of the panel will fit around the
door frame channel.
Figure #205
Figure #206
Figure #207
Figure #208
Section AF14 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Interior Panels –Page #79
The last panel to fit will be the top over head panel shown
in Figure #209. You will have to cut out the seatbelt
bracket hole and make any necessary filing to have the
panel to fit correctly.
When you are happy with the over all fit of the wing root
covers, side window frame covers and top rear cover fit drill
each trim tabs and cleco in to place.
Label all of the interior panels with a magic marker. You
do not want to waste time trying to figure out what panel
needs to go where latter on. Remove all the panels and
store in a safe place where they will not get dented or
scratched up.
You could go directly in to covering these panels if that is
what you would like to do. This process will be covered
latter on in our manual.
Figure #209
Section WG02 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #80
You may find the bolts are a bit stiff, if so it is recom‐
mended you turn the head with a wrench while pushing the
back of the bolt with a smaller pin. This will walk the bolt
out of the hole without the necessary use of force. Once all
of the bolts are ready to be removed, gently lift the flap or
aileron out of position and place them onto a clean table.
You will notice that the nut and bolt are not aircraft grade.
These are used for shipping purposes only. You will reuse
the washers so store them in a labeled zip lock bag, in a
place you will remember. The removal of the hardware is
as shown in Figure #210 & #211.
Note: When removing the flaps and ailerons it is recom‐
mended you have two people assist with this step to en‐
sure that the items do not get damaged.
Now we are ready to remove the wings from the shipping
stands. Our intention is to place each wing on two saw
horses in the normal flight attitude. If you don’t already
have saw horses (4) the preferred height is 36”. They also
make a wing rotisserie unit but saw horses work for this
step.
Prepare an area roughly 17 feet long by 6 feet for each
wing. Place the saw horses so the wing will rest on the #1
Root rib & the full tip rib. It is recommended you place an
old blanket on top of the saw horse to prevent scratching
of the wing. It is also critical to have the saw horses cen‐
tered under a rib to support the weight of the wing. This is
3 person job to remove the wings from the shipping stands.
You will need 2 x 1/2” wrenches to remove the nuts first.
Then each wing should lift straight up off the shipping
stand. The stand is designed so that one wing will rest on
the stand without it tipping over. When lifting the wing at
the root end you may hold it anywhere along the round
spreader bar as shown in Figure #212. At the tip end, if
you have a round set of wings, you may pick it up by the
bow (it is strong enough to do this.)
Figure #210
Figure #211
Figure #212
Section WG02 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #81
If you have a square set of wings grab it by the rib bracing
around the front and rear spar as shown in Figure #213.
Set the wings on the saw horses. Now you are ready to
remove the fuel tank lid.
To remove the tank lid, remove all 15 phillips head screws
out of each fuel tank lid, as shown in Figure #214. There
will be 6 screws along the front and 4 screws along the
back of the fuel tank lid, that are 10‐32 x 3/4”. Then remove
the remaining 5 screws along the #5 rib. These screws are
6‐32 x 1/2”. Place these tank lid screws in a labelled zip lock
bag & store in a place you will remember.
We recommend before you remove the fuel tanks, take a
measurement of the position of the filler neck, (from the
#1 root rib and from the front spar) as shown in Figure
#208. This is to reposition the fuel tank when re‐installing.
Write down the measurements in a note book that you will
use in the assembly process. (It is advisable to have a blank
note book to record various measurements. Keep this
book handy alongside your builder’s log)
Figure #213
Figure #214
Figure #208
Section WG03 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #82
Use a 5/32” Hex head wrench (Allen key) to unbolt the top
fuel tank straps, as seen in Figure #215. Before laying both
of the metal strap onto the wing we recommend laying a
soft cloth between the strap and the wing to ensure that
the strap doesn’t scratch the wing or the paint on the strap.
Once unbolted swing the straps 180 degree by the hinge so
that the straps stick out forward of the leading edge. Take
the 2 fuel tank strap bolts and place them in the same zip
lock bag that you used for the Phillips screws so they won’t
get lost.
Now unbolt the steel compression tube that runs through
the fuel tank. Remove each of the AN3‐5A bolts and the
10‐32 locknuts with two 3/8” wrenches as shown in Figure
#216 & #217.
Note: To remove the black steel compression tube you will
need to lift the rear root corner of the tank as you slide the
root end of the compression tube upward off the end of
the steel tab that it’s attached to. You will need to get the
compression tube to slide between the top of the round
spreader bar & the bottom of the upper rib extrusion on
the #1 rib. You should now slide the tube straight out of
the fuel tank as shown in Figure #218.
Figure #215
Figure #216
Figure #217
Figure #218
Section WG03 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #83
Lift the fuel tank straight up from the top of the wing.
Once the fuel tank is removed replace the steal compres‐
sion tube back in to the wing, as shown in Figure #219.
This compression tube is a critical component to ensure
that the wing does not sag or come out of shape.
Discard the white air‐foam packing that is found between
the fuel tank and the tank straps. Replace it with either
glue on 1” wide cork board or the recommended 1” wide
nylon strap.
Apply anti‐chafe material
Pre‐cut nylon straps (1”x .45”) to length to cover the tank
side of each tank strap. The top straps need to be sepa‐
rated in two pieces leaving about 1/8” gap on each side of
the hinge. The bottom straps are to be done in one piece.
The general idea is to separate the fuel tank from the steel
straps all the way around.
Take a 1/2” wide brush and cut the bristles with a pair of
scissors to half of the factory length (this make a stiffer
application tool for applying the gel contact cement). Ap‐
ply the contact cement glue to both the steel fuel tank
strap and the nylon strap, as shown in Figure #220. Let the
glue flash off (dry until tacky to the touch) for approxi‐
mately 2‐5 minutes.
Bond the nylon strap to the fuel tank strap, as shown in
Figure #221. This will be an instant bond, so use caution in
aligning the nylon. Once you are happy with the alignment
rub your hand over the nylon ensuring a good connection
between the two surfaces. Repeat this step for each tank
strap.
It is recommended you start and complete one strap at a
time.
Figure #219
Figure #220
Figure #221
Section WG03 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #84
Storing fuel tank for later assembly
This is a perfect time to clean out the fuel tanks for stor‐
age. Vacuum the fuel tanks with a regular domestic vac‐
uum (or shop vac) to remove any possible unwanted debris
that could be left over from the manufacturing process.
To reach the far corners of each tank, attach a ½” to 1”
flexible (vinyl) hose and tape it to the end of your vacuum
hose as shown in Figure #222. When trying to remove any
unwanted debris, rotate (tilt and shake) the fuel tank in
every direction & listen for any audible sound that the de‐
bris could make.
Once this process is complete it is recommended you place
each fuel tank in a plastic garbage bag to ensure no dust or
any other possible debris could enter the fuel tank.
Now you can store the fuel tanks in a safe place. We will
not use them again until the fabric covering is all done.
Installing Landing light lenses
Locate the #4 leading edge skin. This is between rib #11 &
rib #12 counting from the wing root. On this skin you
should see the manufacture’s marker lines. There will be
two marked lines, one on top and one on the bottom of the
leading edge of the wing. These lines indicate the begin‐
ning of the internal light bracket. The manufactured
marked lines are shown in Figure #223. Draw a straight
line to connect both of these lines with a magic marker.
Measure the total width of the #4 leading edge skin, then
divide the measurement in half. The divided number will
be the center of the #4 skin. Use a magic marker and mark
the center line for both the top and bottom of the leading
edge skin.
Note: The following information is for those who have pur‐
chased the “Landing Light Finishing Kit” item #W22.
If you have not purchased the finishing light kit, you will need
to create the needed cover and sides. We will show how to
make these items in a latter date.
Figure #222
Figure #223
Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #85
Find the landing light cover kit and measure the total width
of the light cover, then divide the measurement in half.
Take the divided measurement and make a center line on
the upper & lower sides of the cover, with a magic marker.
Then place & hold the cover plate on to the leading edge of
the wing. Align the leading edge center line with the light
trim cover center line, shown in Figure #224 items #1 &
#2. Then align the inside opening of the cover to the
manufactures lines, item #3. Make sure you keep the lines
square. Draw a line on the outside top and bottom edge,
the top edge line is shown in item #4. Then draw a line all
the way around the inside opening of the cover. To draw
this area have someone assist with holding the light cover,
to ensure the cover does not shift during marking.
From each side, measure 3/8” to add extra space. This will
make the total cutout area 12” wide. Use the cover plate as
a template to draw the second set of out side lines, ensure
that your vertical lines are square to the manufactures top
& bottom guide line. Example shown in Figure #225.
When you are ready to cut out the landing light skin area, it
is highly suggested you cut 3/8” to 1/2” inside of the manu‐
factures guide lines. This will allow you to measure the re‐
maining distance to be removed so that your final cut line
is flush with the forward most edge of the internal bracket.
Figure #224
Figure #225
Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #86
To cut in to this surface, drill a 1/4” hole (in to the center of
your opening) giving you a spot to get a sheet metal snip
started in to. Using RED handled snips, cut counter clock‐
wise and Green handled snips to cut clockwise. It is best to
cut all the way around the perimeter of your opening stay‐
ing about 1/2” inside the lines. At this point confirm the
location of the top and bottom manufactures lines by in‐
serting a ruler just under the leading edge skin, pushing it
in until it hits the beginning of the bracket. Once you con‐
firm the top and bottom line and are satisfied with the lo‐
cation of the corners you can drill a hole in each corner with
a 1/4” drill bit. Drill your holes so that the radius of the bit
creates a rounded corner joining your two intersecting
lines. Make a second pass with your snips leaving 1/8” in‐
side the lines and a third final pass on your lines. This will
ensure a desirable finish as shown in Figure #226.
Measure 1 1/4” from the manufactured line, both top and
bottom, and draw a line on the leading edge. Then place a
ruler on this line, put the center line at 6” then make four
marks at 2”, 4 1/2”, 7 1/2” and 10” for both top and bottom
of the leading edge skin. Example shown in Figure #227.
Drill each marked location with a #40 drill bit. Use a cleco
after each hole has been created.
Install both of the side brackets under the leading edge
skin. You will notice that these brackets are a bit longer
than required, as shown in Figure #228. The brackets will
need some trimming for a correct fit. Cut to size and put in
to place. The 1/8” drop in height on these brackets should
be the only part showing in the opening (3/8” protruding
the opening).
Figure #226
Figure #227
Figure #228
Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #87
Along both sides of the landing light measure 3/8” and
mark a line. Then starting from the upper leading edge’s
manufacture line measure and mark 4 spaces. Each space
will be 1 1/2” apart. Then from the bottom leading edge
manufacture line measure 3 spaces at 1 1/2” each.
Then drill each hole with a #40 drill bit & cleco each loca‐
tion as shown in Figure #229.
Counter Sink & Debur each hole before riveting in the side
brackets as shown in Figure #230.
Install press rivets with rivet squeezers as shown in Figure
#231 & #232.
Figure #229
Figure #230
Figure #231
Figure #232
Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #88
Take the landing light cover, starting from the outside side
edge measure and mark a 3/8” line. Then from the inside
edge of the upper cover measure and mark a 1” line. Then
do the same thing for the other end of the cover. When
complete place the cover on the leading edge with spring
clamps, ensure that the cover is centered and flush at the
top and bottom edge, as shown in Figure #233.
Use a #40 drill bit and drill out the lower two corners and
install clecos in to each hole. Then check to see if the cover
is tight against the forward leading edge. When satisfied
with the covers fit, drill out the top 2 corners and cleco
each hole. Measure the distance from corner hole to cor‐
ner along the top and bottom line (this should be 12 3/4”.)
Mark 6 holes locations across, which is 5 spaces of 2.55”
each.
From the top corners, measure down 2.55” & 5.10” and
mark both location. For the bottom corners measure for‐
ward 2.55” and place a mark. Check the inside of the lead‐
ing edge to see if these locations would interfere with the
counter sink rivets. You do not want the nut plates to in‐
terfere with the rivets, relocate the nut plate locations if
needed. Try to make the spacing aesthetically pleasing.
When all of the locations have been checked and are clear
of any interference, drill out the needed holes.
Remove the cover plate. Enlarge all the holes with a 0.135”
drill bit. This will accommodate a #6 nut plate tool as
shown in Figure #234.
Then using a nut plate tool and a #40 drill, insert the side
holes to the support your nut plate.
Figure #233
Figure #234
Section WG04 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #89
Use 3‐3 counter sunk rivets, permanently install the nut
plates with a rivet squeezer. On your cover plate enlarge
the #40 holes to accept the #6 screws. Making these holes
slightly larger then the #6 screw will give you room for any
possible misalignment, due to the extra space that the fab‐
ric may consume.
Figure #235 shows the lower nut plates installed.
When all of the nut plates are installed, Trim your glass to
fit in to the recess groove . Check for proper fit along the
front leading edge. Then remove the glass and store in a
safe place. The final installation of the glass and trim plate
will happen after the fabric has been installed and painted.
Note: The final steps to complete the landing light will be
covered after the fabric covering process.
Figure #235
Section WG05 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #90
Install the Wiring harness for the Wing
The purpose of this section is to show how to build a wire
harness that supplies power to the landing lights, naviga‐
tion lights, Strobe lights and optional auxiliary fuel transfer
pump.
Note: This harness can be installed at our factory for an ad‐
ditional cost or you can build them yourself. These harnesses
are available from Turbine Cubs and can be shipped with your
kit. The pictures in this guide shows installation of the har‐
ness in front of the front spar. You will not be able to do this
because your wings will have the leading edge skins already
installed. You will install your harness in the same fashion,
only it will run along the inside of the front spar.
Start by laying out each wire along the whole length of the
wing as shown in Figure #236, then add 18‐24” extra of
each along the root of the wing. Use 3 14 gauge wires for
landing lights, 3 16 gauge wires for the navigation lights &
2 14 gauge wires for the fuel transfer pump.
If you were going to install the (Whelen nave / strobe sys‐
tem) or L.E.D nave strobe system both kits will be
shipped with the necessary harness.
Figure #236
Section WG05 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #91
Take a roll of the black braided sleeve and roll the cut end
into itself about 1” at each end ( Doing this will ensure that
the braid wont break apart) Then place each cable that has
been cut to length, through the braided black sleeve. Use a
soldering iron to burn a small hole in the black sleeve at the
landing lights & optional auxiliary fuel transfer pump loca‐
tions, then pull out the required wires for each system as
shown in Figure #237 & #238.
Figure #237
Figure #238
Section WG05 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Preparation for Covering –Page #92
With another piece of the braided sleeve, run the pulled
out wires through it and cut to length. Again roll the frag‐
mented end in to the braided sleeve about 1” as shown in
Figure #239. With a hook needle, thread each of the
braided sleeves together as shown in Figure #240. The
final outcome should look like Figure #241.
Figure #239
Figure #241 Figure #240
Section WG06 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel Lines for Auxiliary Pump –Page #93
The Facet transfer pump that comes with the Auxiliary fuel
tanks already has 3/8” flared tube fittings on the pump. It
is important that you verify the direction of the pump. It
only works one way and is marked with an arrow. They
install the pump at the factory with the arrow pointing to‐
wards the leading edge of the wing. You want to suck from
the back of the Auxiliary tank and dump the fuel in the
front of the main tank.
At the back of the aux tank, we reduce the 3/8” pipe thread
down to a ¼” AN912‐2D. Then install elbow AN821‐6D
pointing to the transfer pump when tight. Don’t forget to
seal the threads with Locktite 545 the same way as you did
for the airframe fuel system. Do not seal the joints with
the compression fittings! Place a short piece of 3/8” alumi‐
num tubing with a small offset bend joins the elbow to the
back (suction side) of the pump. This tube will get a nut
AN818‐6D and a sleeve AN819‐6D on each end. Flare the
ends and connect the tube as seen in Figure #242.
Now is a good time to mix up some top coat paint and
touch up any areas that did not get painted because they
where taped over to keep bushings clean. Mix up a small
amount just like you would to spray, except you are going
to use a small artists brush to carefully apply the paint as
seen in Figure #243.
Let this paint dry before continuing with the tail brace wire
installation.
The front of the main tank gets a Nipple AN816‐6D with
thread sealant as seen in Figure #244.
Figure #242
Figure #243
Figure #244
Section WG06 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Fuel Lines for Auxiliary Pump –Page #94
The second tube goes from the front of the pump to the
top hole located at the front of the main tank. The same
nut and sleeve go on each end of this tube.
Make sure your power wires (14 gauge) are connected to
the pump and that you have properly labeled the positive
and negative at the root of the wing. Check continuity with
a meter to make sure.
Figure #245
Figure #246
Section WG07 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Pitot Static Line –Page #95
This section covers the pitot tube installation. Although
some glass cockpit systems supply a special pitot tube end
we are showing a normal mechanical airspeed configura‐
tion. We are not showing a Static line installation because
this type of aircraft is not an air tight unit. We have found
that just leaving the back of your altimeter and VSI open
are sufficient and don’t run any lines. You can, however
run lines if you want to.
This step requires 10 feet of ¼” aluminum tubing 03‐
40400. It runs from the root of the wing behind the front
spar and exits just behind the front jury strut attachment
bracket.
This is typically done to the left wing only. You need to
bend a gentle 90° curve at the jury strut pickup end. Be
careful not to kink the tube.
The best way to attach the tube to the spar is using the
white cable tie mounts as seen in Figure #248. These can
be picked up from electronics shops or hardware places like
Fastenal. In this application you need to drill a #37 hole in
the spar web and use a #4 screw to fasten the cable tie
mount. Then you use a small cable tie to secure the tubing.
Leave about 2” of tube sticking out at the wings root end.
You need enough to attach hose to each end.
Note: Wrap both ends of the pitot line with electrical tape
during the covering process. This will keep the ends clean
and free of any contaminates.
Figure #247
Figure #248
Figure #249
Section WG08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Drill for rivets –Page #96
In this module we will be showing you the steps needed to
drill holes in the wings, flaps & ailerons. This is only done if
you plan to use pop rivets rather then rib stitching to attach
your fabric to the wings. The rivets will be needed to se‐
cure the fabric to the aircraft wing assembly. Depending
on the length of chord of your flaps & ailerons the amount
of rivets will change.
Starting from the wing front spar (on the bottom of the
rib), measure back 1” and place a mark on the center of the
rib, as shown in Figure #250.
Then measure back 1” from the trailing edge skin and
mark, as shown in Figure #251.
The FAA stipulations on the placement of rivets & lacing on
the wings are found in AC43.13‐1B Chapter 2 Page 2‐21.
Figure #252 shows the FAA maximum allowable spacing
envelope. On our aircraft kits the ribs 1‐5 from the wing
root will need the 2 1/2” spacing due to the prop wash, the
remanding ribs can be spaced at 3 1/2” apart, but no fur‐
ther. Measure and mark the locations along each rib, keep
an eye for any possible poor placement of rivets around the
rib support brackets, keep the holes far enough away so
that when you later install the rivets they won’t strike the
support brackets. You repeat these steps for both top and
bottom of each rib.
Note: Rivets are only needed on the bare rib and not on the
leading edge or trailing edge skins.
Figure #250
Figure #251
Figure #252
Section WG08 Rev # 1.1 Backcountry Super Cubs
Drill for rivets –Page #97
It has been suggested to make a story board for the river
hole placement so that your rivet locations would be
evenly spaced and uniformed. The story boards will also
assist in cutting down the time needed when marking the
locations.
To make a rivet story board you could you a scrap piece of
metal or bristle board. You will need to make a total of 3
different story boards 1 for the bottom ribs that are in the
prop wash area, 1 for the remaining non prop washed area
of the wing & 1 for the top non prop washed wing.
Flaps should have 3 rivet locations top and bottom in the
prop wash area & 2 rivets in none washed areas. On each
rib evenly space 2 locations both top and bottom for the
ailerons.
When you have marked all of the rivet locations use a 1/8”
drill bit and drill each hole & de‐bur, as shown in Figure
#253.
Figure #253
Section AA01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Landing Gear Assembly –Page #98
This is the beginning of the assembly process. When you
are done, all of the painted parts will come together to
make an assembly that should look like the aircraft in Fig‐
ure #254. This section covers the assembly of the main
landing gear. The first step is to get the airframe off the
rotisserie used for covering and painting and onto the
wheels.
As shown in Figure #255 there are four parts we are going
to deal with in this section, a left & right main gear leg, a
left & right shock strut, a cabane V, & one or two side
steps. The only time you will have two side step configura‐
tion is your aircraft has both a left & right side door.
Raise the front of the airframe high enough so that you
may fit the main gear legs in to position. We suggest you
use a couple of short 2x4 blocks of wood and place them
under each axel. This will protect the bottom of the gear
legs paint from any possible scratching during the time of
positioning the air frame.
There are two bolts that get installed on each gear leg to
attach the leg to the airframe. As shown in Figure #2 & #3
there should be a space between the leg and the bracket
that holds it on to the airframe. The leg requires you to
have the ability to swing freely so the small gap isn't a ma‐
jor concern.
Use a AN6‐26 Bolt for the front fitting with a washer on
the head. Use 1 or 2 washers on the other end with a castle
nut so the hole in the bolt is just exposed within the nut to
accept a cotter pin.
The rear fitting requires a AN6‐26 Bolt with a washer on
the head & 1 or 2 washers on the threaded end with a cas‐
tle nut. (Note: Use a AN6‐25 Bolt if you are not using the
conventional step)
Tighten both nuts finger tight, then tighten one more flat
(1/6th of a turn) until the hole in the bolt lines up with the
slot with n the nut.
Note: If you are going to install a side step it needs to go on
to the rear fitting before the nut is installed.
Figure #254
Figure #255
Figure #256
Figure #257
Section AA01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Landing Gear Assembly –Page #99
Side step installation.
The side step is installed with two attachment points. A
rubber bumper is used as a leverage arm. These rubber
bumpers are available at most fastener retailers.
As shown in Figure #259 the larger hole that is in the step
will go in the back side of the rear gear leg fitting.
The rear attachment point of the step will get bolted to the
tab sticking out of the bottom airframe as shown in Figure
#260. Bolt these together with an AN3‐5 bolt with AN960‐
10 washer on the head & a AN960‐10 washer and a AN365
‐1032 lock nut on the threaded side.
Figure #259
Figure #260
Figure #258
Section AA01 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Landing Gear Assembly –Page #100
Installing the Cabane V
The Cabane V gets installed with bolts number 1 & 2 as
seen in Figure #261 . These are 2x AN5‐17A Bolts with 2
AN960‐516 washers & 1 AN365‐524 locknut. You can use a
Locknut here because this part of the gear does not pivot.
These 2 nuts get tighten to 120 inch LBS of torque.
Installing the Shock Struts
Your kit comes with a single die spring suspension arm.
Figure #262 shows the optional heavy duty suspension
arms. They both get attached the same way.
#3 location is a AN6‐17 bolt with a AN960‐616 washer on
the head & 2 AN960‐616 washers, a AN310‐6 castle nut &
MS24665‐283 cotter pin on the threaded side of the bolt.
#4 location is a AN6‐22 Bolt with a AN960‐616 washer, a
AN310‐6 castle nut & MS24665‐283 cotter pin on the
threaded sided of the bolt.
If you are using the heavy duty suspension arms, they are
required to be drilled together. To do this, mount the arms
onto the aircraft with bolts #3 & #4.
Now add or remove wooden 2x4 blocks to have the arms
measure 30 7/8” center to center between the bolts.
By mounting the arms onto the aircraft you must assure
the bolt holes are running parallel to each other.
Figure #261
Figure #262
Figure #263 Figure #264
Section AA02 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Wheel Installation –Page #101
Your tail wheel is going to come assembled, as seen. It
comes straight out of the box ready to be bolted to your
tail wheel spring. This is a fairly simple system held to‐
gether with only 4 bolts as shown in Figure #265.
Location # 1 bolt is a AN7‐21A with 1 washer & 1‐AN365‐
720A lock nut. Torque nut to 475 inch pounds. (inch pounds
divided by 12 = Foot pounds)
Locations #2 & #3 each bolt is a AN5‐17A with 3 AN960‐
516 washers & one AN365‐524 locknut. Torque between
100‐140 inch pounds.
Location #4 bolt is a AN6‐26A with 3 AN960‐616 washers
& AN365‐624 locknut. Torque the nut between 160‐190
inch pounds.
Stack all three leaf springs together as shown in Figure
#266. The shortest spring is to be on top, the middle
spring is the one with the slot in it at the tail wheel end & a
regular hole at the forward facing end & the bottom spring
is the one with the hole at both ends.
Location #4 Bolt shown in Figure #267 clearly shows a
castle nut & not a locknut as listed in the Bill Of Materials.
Either style of nut can be used here due to the fact that this
item is not a rotating part.
Figure #265
Figure #266
Figure #267
Section AA02 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Wheel Installation –Page #102
You may notice that the tail wheel leaf springs have a
rough texture to them. This is a result of the forging proc‐
ess & not the signs of a recycled spring. Some builders
decide to sand the springs smooth & then repaint them.
Either way, the it won’t effect the springs performance.
Figure #268
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #103
This section is going to show you how to install the hori‐
zontal stabilizers & then the brace wires. The tail brace
wires hold the stabilizers square to the vertical fin of the
aircraft and also add great rigidity to the entire tail system.
The First step is to ream out the two holes that are the
lower mounts for the bottom tail brace wires. Carefully
clean these holes by running a 0.191” reamer through
keeping the reamer as square as possible. This is easier to
access now before the stabilizers go on, as shown in Figure
#269.
The second step is to check the fit of the rear pivot tube
(T4) & make sure it will freely enter the rear of the stabiliz‐
ers. The best way to do this is to lay a blanket down on a
work bench (something soft to protect the newly painted
surfaces) or a couple of saw horses. Be careful that what‐
ever you use doesn’t scratch the stabilizers. Do one stabi‐
lizer at a time.
Try inserting the pivot tube in to the rear of the stabilizer.
Don’t ram it in there if it won’t go in easily. Sometimes a
small bit of weld will penetrate through the stabilizer as it
is being welded, or paint will obstruct the pivot tube from
rotating freely. Either way, you need to make sure the sta‐
bilizer pivot tube will slide in to the stabilizer at least 2 1/2
inches.
If the pivot tube won’t slide in the stabilizer you will need to
clean out whatever is obstructing the hole. The easiest
way to do this is with a Dremel tool as seen in Figure #270
with a small sanding wheel that will fit into the stabilizer
tube. If you don’t have a Dremel you can use a small round
or half round file or even regular sandpaper on a small
dowel or any round handle. Don’t make this hole any lar‐
ger than you have to!! Make the fit between the two tubes
just loose enough that you can slide the pivot tube in to the
stabilizer with one hand. You don’t want any excess play
between the tubes. If you have to tap the tube with a ham‐
mer it is too tight. If you get the tube stuck while fitting,
wrap the tube in a rag and grab the tube with channel lock
pliers. What ever you do, don’t mark the outside of the
pivot tube with the pliers.
Figure #269
Figure #270
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #104
Repeat this for the second stabilizer.
Now you are going to get the rear pivot shaft ready to ac‐
cept the stabilizers. You need to apply a coating of Lock‐
Tite C5‐A anti‐seize to the pivot shaft before it is slid in to
the airframe as seen in Figure #273. Apply to shaft leaving
2” bare on each end of the shaft.
Figure #272
Figure #273
Figure #271
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #105
Now slide the shaft in to the airframe tube making it cen‐
tered (an even length of shaft sticking out each side of the
airframe). You should have about 2 ½” on each side of
the airframe. Don’t get worried if this measurement varies
a small amount (plus or minus 1/8”) shown in Figure #274.
Once the pivot tube is centered, wipe off any anti‐seize on
the tube that is visible. Re‐check that the tube is centered
after you wipe the anti‐seize.
We are going to install the left stabilizer first so you need
to mark the right side of the tube with tape. Using mask‐
ing tape, wrap the tube as seen in Figure #275 as close to
the airframe as you can but keep all of the tape on the
pivot tube. This will serve as a witness mark as you push
the left stabilizer on. If the pivot tube moves side to side
(which it is suppose too) you will know how far to install the
pivot tube in the left stabilizer and still keep it centered in
the airframe.
OK, now let’s move up to the front stabilizer support. This
is a floating tube attached to the jack screw yoke.
Figure #274
Figure #275
Figure #276
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #106
The front pivot tube item #T5 has two definite high spots
that are thicker and you can see a ridge here in Figure
#277. Before you install the front tube you need to apply
anti‐seize only on the two thicker portions. The ridges also
serve as the witness marks for centering purposes. Insert
so an even amount of tube sticks out each side.
Now you should be ready to install the left and right hori‐
zontal stabilizers. This is a job that is best done with two
people. One person is going to hold the two pivot tubes
from moving while the other person slides the stabilizer on
to the two tubes, as shown in Figure #279.
Place the front tube through the front hole of the stabi‐
lizer. Make sure you have the left stabilizer and not the
right. Check that the Seaplane drain holes are on the bot‐
tom (if you installed them on the fabric).
After you get the front tube started, you need to make sure
the powder coated tube that is attached to the jack screw
yoke is rotated down and not upward as seen in Figure
#279. In other words, the tube must be below the AN3
bolts attaching the tube to the jack screw yoke and nut
above the AN3 bolts. The stabilizer will fit on to the air‐
frame with the tube rotated upward, but your trim range
will be off. Make sure it looks just like the picture seen in
Figure #279. Now you can begin fitting the rear tube.
Figure #277
Figure #278
Figure #279
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #107
Once the stabilizer is started (making sure it is level with
the ground) begin sliding it toward the vertical fin. The
person holding the two pivot tubes can rotate the tubes to
help the stabilizer move toward the fin.
The person pushing against the stabilizer can use one hand
against the back of the vertical fin as leverage to apply
pressure toward the fin. Be careful and take your time with
this. You don’t want to bend anything!
When you are done sliding the left stabilizer toward the
center, it should be tight to the airframe and the rear tube
should only have 2 ½” sticking out the right side. You
should just be able to see the shoulder of the front pivot
tube, and it should not protrude out past the end of the
painted jack screw yoke tube. Now you need to drill two
holes to anchor the pivot tubes to the left stabilizer.
Figure #280
Figure #281
Figure #282
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #108
You need to mark the location for two 3/16” bolts. Using a
pencil, measure exactly 1” in from the root of the stabilizer
at the front and rear tubes as seen in Figures 283 & 284.
Make sure your marks are on the very top of the tubes.
Imagine a square placed on top of the fabric covering the
stabilizer. You need to drill holes down the square in both
directions from the top of the fabric.
Measure the center of the forward and rear tubes of the
stabilizer as seen in below in Figure #285. Mark the center
at the 1” mark as seen in Figure #286.
Figure #283
Figure #284
Figure #286 Figure #285
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #109
Install AN3 bolts in these holes so the end size for your hole
is to 0.191”. This needs to be a tight fitting hole which
means under size first. Start by drilling a smaller hole
about 1/8”. Drill this hole, keeping your drill bit as square
as you possibly can to the top surface of the stabilizer.
Shown in Figure #287.
Drill a second time using a #12 drill bit and then a final
clean out with a 0.191” ream. As shown in Figure #288 &
#289.
Figure #287
Figure #288
Figure #289
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #110
Place a AN960‐10 washer though a AN3‐14A bolt then run
the bolt though the hole and place a AN‐960‐10 washer on
the end of the bolt and complete with a AN365‐1032 lock‐
nut.
Repeat the same steps for the rear tube. Tighten front &
rear nuts at 20‐25 inch lbs.
Repeat the same steps for the right stabilizer.
Have someone hold the left stabilizer as you align the right
stabilizer and push the right side on to the aircraft. Be very
careful to get the right side level and square with the pivot
shafts. Push the stabilizer, in making sure you push the
front and rear tubes at the same rate.
Figure #290
Figure #291
Figure #292
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #111
Once you get the right side started on to the tubes, you can
go to the end of the stabilizer as seen in Figure #293. It
may help to wiggle the stabilizer front to back every so
slightly to get it to slide inward. Have your helper go to the
end of the left stabilizer and resist you with the equal
amount of pressure and press inward.
Figure #293
Figure #294
Figure #295
Section AA03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Stabilizer & Tail Brace Wires –Page #112
Make sure that both stabilizers are tight to the airframe
and that you can’t possibly push them any closer together.
Now you are going to mark drill hole locations just like you
did on the left stabilizer, 1” in from the root of the stabi‐
lizer and exactly centered on top of each tube, as shown in
Figure #296.
When you are ready to drill the right side it is easier if you
have a third person. This can be done with two people, but
the person holding the stabilizers together has to reach
over the airframe and gets in the way of the person trying
to drill the hole.
With three people, have one person at each end of the sta‐
bilizers pushing toward the center of the airframe. The
third person (whoever is most competent to do the drilling)
will drill a hole at the front and rear of the stabilizer just as
you did on the left stabilizer. Start with a 1/8” drill, then
switch to a #12 drill, and finally clean out the hole with a
0.191” reamer.
Now install your bolts to hold the right stabilizer on just as
you did on the left.
Just for fun, you can go up to your trim handle and crank
the trim to full up and full down travel. You should see the
front of the stabilizers move as you turn the trim handle.
Figure #296
Figure #297
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #113
You have a couple of things you need to do before you can
install the tail brace wires. First you need to open up the
holes that accept the tail brace wires that you covered over
when you where covering the stabilizers. Start by locating
the bushing in each stabilizer as seen in Figure #298. You
will be able to feel the indent of the hole and likely will be
able to see the flat of the weld around the bushing. Using a
small diameter rod (welding rod or clothes hanger) poke a
hole in the center of the bushing.
Repeat this to the other side.
Also you need to poke a hole in the vertical fin located be‐
tween the upper hinge bushings as seen in Figure #299.
The next step is to burn the fabric around the holes that
accept the bolts for the tail brace wires. This is done with a
soldering iron. Carefully insert the tip of the iron through
the holes and rotate it around the inside of the bushing to
melt the fabric out as seen in Figure #300.
Figure #299
Figure #300
Figure #298
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #114
Now is a good time to mix up some top coat paint and
touch up any areas that did not get painted because they
where taped over to keep bushings clean. Mix up a small
amount just like you would to spray, except you are going
to use a small artists brush to carefully apply the paint as
seen in Figure #301.
Let this paint dry before continuing with the tail brace wire
installation.
Now you need to install the tail brace wires. You are going
to assemble the wires, as shown in Figure #302 but leave
everything loose. There are two top and two bottom tail
brace wires. The top wires are longer in length than the
bottom and have bent ends at both ends. You will notice
the bottom wires (the shorter wires) have straight tabs at
one end.
Figure #301
Figure #302
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #115
Figure #303 shows the lower tail brace wires. Pay particu‐
lar attention to the fittings on the ends of the wires.
Starting with the top wires at the top of the vertical fin,
insert one AN4‐15A bolt with the special Univair #U40131‐
00 bent washer on each side, then a AN960‐10 washer and
an AN365‐1032 locknut, as seen in Figure #304. Do not
tighten this bolt just yet.
Turn the nut until about two threads are showing. You
want to be able to swivel the brackets at the top of the tail
brace wires.
The idea is that you are going to install all of the wires at
both ends. Then you will tighten the nuts that hold the
wires to the aircraft that last little bit. This will help you to
get the brackets aligned at each end.
Figure #304
Figure #305
Figure #303
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #116
Now you are going to attach the other end of the top tail
brace wires to the top of the left and right stabilizers.
Look at Figure #305 below and you will notice that you
need to have the lower tail brace wires ready to go on as
well. Make sure you have them positioned so the bent end
of the lower wires goes on the bottom of the stabilizer and
the straight end goes down to the bottom of the airframe.
Figure #306
Figure #305
Note the bushing that is pointed out in Figure #305. The purpose of this bushing is to allow the brackets attached
to the stabilizers to pivot and stay pointed directly at the top and bottom attachment points on the top of the fin
and the bottom of the airframe. As the trim is adjusted, the brackets attached to the stabilizer as shown in Figure
#306 would change direction without these bushings in place. They have just recently been added since (April
2008) to the hardware packages included with your kit. If you do not have these bushings, you will need to order
them from either Turbine Cubs or Univair Part# U82732‐072.
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #117
Lastly you are installing the bottom of the lower tail brace
wires which are bolt # 14, as shown in Figure #307.
You will use AN3‐5A bolts. Install a AN960‐10 washer on
the head and another on the threaded side after it is in‐
serted in to the bracket, then place a AN365‐1032 locknut
on the end of the bolt and snug tight, as you did with the
other bolts.
At this point let’s talk about how the wires tighten. Look
back a few pages and find the part explosion for explana‐
tory purposes, we are going to call the components a nut
and a barrel. The nut works just like a collet does. You turn
the barrel to adjust the length of the wire and when you are
finally satisfied with the length of the wire you tighten the
nut. The nut locks the barrel so it cannot turn any longer,
maintaining the pre‐set length of the wire.
This means that you want all of the nuts on the end of each
barrel (8 in total) to be loose as you square up the stabiliz‐
ers to the fin. When you adjust the barrels you want to
hold the wire from rotating with one hand and turn the
barrel with the other.
It is Critical that you DO NOT put any marks / Cuts /
Nicks in the wires. This would be an area that would
promote a failure in the wire. If you did damage the wire
in any way, when you begin to fly this aircraft the poten‐
tial failure of a tail brace wire would wreak your entire
day!
Warning ! ! !
If you put pliers or Vise Grips on to the wire to keep it from
turning and you press some kind of mark in to the wire,
you need to replace the wire!!!!!!
Now you are going to need two 48” levels. The idea here is
to first get the vertical fin as level as you can. Do this by
either jacking the axels up or by adjusting the air pressure
in the tires.
First check the back of the fin with a smaller level (torpedo
level) as shown in Figure #309. When you have adjusted
and are satisfied that the fin is completely level, you are
going to look at the two levels on the top of the stabilizers.
Figure #308
Figure #309
Figure #307
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #118
Make sure the two 48” levels are not hitting or on top of
any bolts or the tail brace wire brackets as seen in Figures
#310 & #311.
Now you are going to adjust the barrels of all the wires un‐
til the stabilizers are square and level with the tail fin. Turn
the barrels all finger tight and no more. Now you need to
finish tightening the bolts that go through the fin and sta‐
bilizers and the bottom mount bracket. You are going to
tighten these to normal torque specs for 3/16” & ¼” bolts.
As you tighten these bolts you need to hold the brackets
from rotating as they should be in line with the wire and
pointing straight to the other end of the wire. In other
words, there should be no side pressure on the barrels.
You want a nice straight tension load on each tail brace
wire assembly.
Now you can start adding tension to the wires. Below is
how Piper described the proper amount of tension that
should be applied to the wires.
What this means is that you need to hold a straight edge
against the side of the wire and parallel with the length of
the wire. Measure the exact center of the wire. This is the
point that you will be pulling from to measure your deflec‐
tion. Now you need to pull at 90 degree from the direction
the wire travels in with 10 pounds of force. The easiest way
to ensure you are using 10 pounds of force is to use a fish
scale. Go down to your local Walmart and purchase a fish
scale like the one shown in Figure #312.
Figure #311
Figure #310
Figure #312
Section AA03B Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Tail Brace Wires –Page #119
Attach the hook end of the scale around the tail brace wire
at the center of the wire (in the “PULL” area as seen in Fig‐
ure #313) and hold the other end of the scale pull on the
scale until you read 10 lbs on the scale dial. Be careful not
to pull any harder than the 10 lbs because you don’t want
to distort the shape of the wires. Now you need to meas‐
ure the distance the wire moved from the rest position to
the position it is in when the 10 lbs are applied. This dis‐
tance should be 7/16”. If you measure more than 7/16” you
need to tighten the wire. The opposite is true if you meas‐
ure less than 7/16”, loosen the wire.
Remember that all four of these wires work together as a
single unit. This means that you want the same pressure
on all four wires. So take your time gradually tightening
each wire. Each time you adjust a wire check your levels as
seen in figure 2. When you are done you need to be certain
of 4 things.
1) The stabilizers are square to the vertical fin.
2) You have an even amount of thread showing at the
top and bottom of each wire.
3) Each wire deflects 7/16” when 10 lbs force is applied.
4) You have NO nicks or scratches on the wires.
Once you are satisfied that you have completed all of the
four steps above, go ahead and tighten the nuts located on
each barrel.
Figure #314
Figure #315
Figure #313
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #120
This section is going to cover the installation of the eleva‐
tors and the connection of the elevator control cables. The
next section (AA05) will cover the installation of the rud‐
der, the rudder cables, the rudder steering arm and the
spring kit connecting the rudder to the tail wheel. When
you are done both sections (AA04 & AA05) your tail section
should look the one in Figure #316.
The first thing to do is mount the elevators to the stabi‐
lizer. If you did not install the oil light bushings item #F16
in to the hinges before you did your fabric covering, you
need to do this now. There are two hinge points on each
elevator. We are going to discuss installing one elevator
and then you can just repeat each step mirroring every‐
thing for the other elevator.
Start by laying a blanket on a work table so you do not
damage your paint job. Now you need to ream out the two
bushings or hinge points to accept the longer oil light
bronze bushings. These holes come from the factory all
ready to size. The steel bushings welded to the stabilizer is
0.375” ID. The bronze bushings are 0.376 OD. That means
these are a press fit. Check your hole for paint and debris
and remove if necessary before driving the bushing in to
place.
Figure #316
Figure #317
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #121
Using a clevis pin inside one of the bushings, align the
bushing with the hole and tap the bushing in to place by
hitting the head of the clevis pin. Be very careful not to hit
the painted surface of the elevator by accident. If you are
concerned that you may hit and damage your paint, wrap a
piece of cardboard around the elevator to protect it. You
need to install two long bushings in to each elevator and
four small bushings in to each stabilizer.
When you have all of your bushings in place you want to
mix up a small amount of paint and brush any areas around
your hinges that are not painted. Before you mix the paint,
now is a good time to make sure the oil light bushings are
also installed in to the rudder hinge points. Now you can
mix your paint and cover both horizontal and vertical tail
surfaces in one step. When you are finished all of your tail
surface hinge points will look like Figure #319. You can
see the steel outer bushing welded to the control surface
with the bronze bushing inside.
Now you have some holes that need to be cleaned out.
Clean out the top and bottom holes marked number 1 as
shown in Figure #320 with a #11 drill. Clean out the hole
marked number 2 with a 3/8” drill. Repeat this to the other
elevator making sure you keep the number 2 hole on the
top for the left and right elevator.
Now you are ready to install each elevator on to the stabi‐
lizers. Have two smaller pins ready to temporarily slide in
to the hinges when you get the elevator in place.
Figure #318
Figure #319
Figure #320
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #122
You need to start by keeping the tip of the elevator below
the tip of the stabilizer as seen in Figures #321 & #322.
This allows you to get the bottom of the elevator horn (the
root end that goes inside the airframe) to slide in between
the upper longerons of the airframe.
Lower the root of the elevator down until you can lift the
tip of the elevator and straighten out the elevator horn
without the horn hitting the top of the fabric patch. Once
you have the entire horn inside the airframe you can begin
to align the root elevator hinge as seen in Figure #323.
If you find that the center of the elevator hinge will not go
in between the two smaller hinge bushings on the stabi‐
lizer, you may need to remove the elevator and use a flat
file to remove a small amount of material from the sides of
the bushings.
When you get the root hinge to fit in to the stabilizer, insert
one of your temporary pins in to the hinge. This allows you
to let go of the root and concentrate on the tip of the ele‐
vator.
Figure #321
Figure #322
Figure #323
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #123
Now repeat the last step until the tip hinge fits properly in
to the two smaller bushings on the stabilizer. You can now
install your second smaller pin. This gives you a chance to
let go of the elevator and gather your clevis pins.
Starting at the root hinge you are going to install:
1 x AN394‐55 Clevis Pin
2 x AN960‐416 washers
1 x AN960‐416L thin washer
1 x MS24665‐132 Cotter Pin
Start with the clevis pin with one washer on the head. Us‐
ing a punch and hammer carefully start driving the pin in to
the hinge. It helps to have a second person hold and align
the center portion of the hinge with the two outer sections.
Drive the first pin in all the way until the shoulder of the pin
rests against the stabilizer bushing.
Repeat this process to the tip hinge using the same pins.
Figure #324
Figure #325
Figure #326
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #124
When both clevis pins are installed you can repeat the in‐
stallation on the other elevator. When all four pins are in,
go ahead and install the required washers and cotter pins
to finish the mounting of the elevators.
Each hinge assembly should look like Figure #328 when
finished.
levator Cable Installation
Now it’s time to connect the cables that control the eleva‐
tors. You start by sliding the black steel tab (F11) seen in
Figure #329 in between the left and right elevator horns.
This tab should already be connected to the elevator bal‐
ance cable spring. To make this installation easier, go for‐
ward to the trim handle and make sure the trim (jack
screw) is as high as possible (nose down trim) on the jack
screw. This will take some of the pressure off the spring as
you install the two bolts seen in Figure #329. It will also
help if you lift the trailing edges of the elevators. Doing
this will allow you to install the bolts with no pressure on
the spring. If you have trouble with this, you can discon‐
nect the balance cable from the jack screw yoke while you
install item #F11.
Bolt # 4 is 1 x AN3‐7A
2 x AN960‐10
1 x AN365‐1032 (20 – 25 inch pounds)
Bolt # 5 is 1 x AN6‐7A
2 x AN960‐616
1 X AN365‐624 (160 – 190 inch pounds)
Figure #327
Figure #328
Figure #329
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #1215
Install the steel tab item #F12 between the bottom of the
elevator horns as seen in Figure #331. Make sure you
ream the holes in item #F12 with a # 11 drill before you
install the plate.
Install using bolt 6 shown here in Figure #332.
Bolt 6 is: 1 x AN3‐7 (bolt)
2 x AN960‐10 (washer)
1 x AN310‐3 (castle nut)
1 x MS24665‐132 (cotter pin)
Tighten this bolt until it is snug and the castle nut lines up
with the hole in the bolt. F12 needs to be able to rotate in
between the elevator horns, so do not over tighten.
The top elevator control cable item #C5 gets attached to
the only remaining hole available on F11. This cable goes
down on an angle to the double pulleys that go under the
floor of the aircraft. The other end of this cable gets at‐
tached to the rear of the tube that goes through the torque
tube. Install the turn buckle to F11 with bolt 7 seen in Fig‐
ure #332.
Bolt 7 is: 1 x AN23‐11 (clevis bolt)
1 x AN960‐10 (Washer)
1 x AN310‐3 (Castle nut)
1 x MS24665‐132 (cotter pin)
Tighten the castle nut on bolt 7 finger tight. Then tighten
until the first available groove in the castle nut lines up with
the hole in the bolt. It does no good to tighten this nut any
further putting unnecessary pressure on the turn buckle
fork end.
Figure #330
Figure #331
Figure #332
Section AA04 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Elevators Installation –Page #1226
Next you are going to attach the lower elevator cable to
the bottom connection of the elevator. Cable item #C6,
which is the cable that connects to the front of the torque
tube, connects to item #F12 as seen in Figure #333. Con‐
nect the turn buckle with bolt 8 seen in Figure #334.
Bolt 8 is: 1 x AN23‐11 (clevis bolt)
1 x AN960‐10 (Washer)
1 x AN310‐3 (Castle nut)
1 x MS24665‐132 (cotter pin)
Tighten the castle nut on bolt 8 finger tight. Then tighten
until the first available groove in the castle nut lines up with
the hole in the bolt. It does no good to tighten this nut any
further putting unnecessary pressure on the turn buckle
fork end.
Here is another view of the lower elevator connection.
Notice how the elevator horns rest against the short piece
of tube connecting the lower longerons. This acts as the
down travel stop for the elevators. The upper stop is the
lower elevator horns hitting the tail post. Original Piper
had an adjustable bolt in place to act as the stop. It was
decided that you could achieve greater elevator travel by
removing this stop and just using the tail post. There is no
strength compromise from this alteration.
At this point you should have an elevator system that looks
similar to the one in Figure #335 less the rudder of course.
You should be able to sit in the front seat of the aircraft
and pull back on the control stick and watch the elevators
go up. Push forward and the elevators should go down!
Don’t get worried about the cable tension. You likely loos‐
ened the turnbuckles slightly as you attached the turn‐
buckle ends to the steel brackets. We will cover the cable
tension in AA09 (Struts & Rigging). When you are ready,
you will rig the entire aircraft. Then you are going to go
through and safety wire all of the turnbuckles.
Figure #333
Figure #334
Figure #335
Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #127
This section covers the installation of the rudder, the rud‐
der control cables, and the rudder steering arm that con‐
nects to the tail wheel. Figure #336 below shows the areas
that will be covered.
The first step is to mount the rudder on to the vertical fin.
You should have installed the bronze bushings in the rud‐
der during section AA04, so the rudder should be all set to
install. Same as the elevators, have two smaller pins ready
to temporarily hold the hinges together while you work at
driving the clevis pins in to place.
Starting with the top hinge install:
1 x AN394‐55 Clevis Pin
2 x AN960‐416 washers
1 x AN960‐416L thin washer
1 x MS24665‐2‐8 Cotter Pin
Repeat this for the lower hinge.
The top and bottom hinge should look like the example in
Figure #337 when you have finished mounting the rudder.
Figure #336
Figure #337
Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #128
For the next step you want to lock the rudder from moving.
The best way of doing this is to cut two pieces of thin
wood. Notice that the wood blocks used in Figure #338
have masking tape applied to the side against the paint.
Doing this will help protect the paint.
Here you can see a closer view of the blocks used to keep
the rudder aligned with the fin.
Your job now is to install the rudder arm. This rudder arm
is Aircraft Spruce P/N 06‐15900. It has a ¾” shaft that will
slide directly in to the bottom of the rudder post as seen in
Figure #340.
Figure #338
Figure #339
Figure #340
Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #129
This next step is a job that requires two people to do. First
thing is to get the rudder steering arm square with the rud‐
der. This can be done by using a speed square as seen in
Figures #341 & #342. Place the square against the side of
the lower frame of the rudder. Make sure that the arm is
hitting the square in the same points on the left and the
right sides. Before you drill you need to mark some holes
as seen below in Figure #343.
The two holes seen in Figure #343 will need to be drilled
exactly 90° to the rudder on the center of the front rudder
tube. These holes will go through the rudder tube, through
the rudder steering arm, and back out the center of the
other side of the rudder tube. Mark up from the bottom
3/8” for the first hole and 1” from the bottom for the sec‐
ond hole. Start drilling with a smaller pilot drill through the
assembly and finish off with a # 12 drill. After the first hole
is drilled, install a bolt. This will ensure no movement in
the parts as the second hole is drilled.
Figure #341
Figure #342
Figure #343
Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #130
Bolts 10 & 11 are:
2 x AN3‐13A Bolts
4 x AN960‐10 Washer
2 x AN365‐1032A Locknuts
Now you are going to install Eye bolts in to the bottom of
the holes on each side of the steering arm you just installed
on the bottom of the rudder. These bolts as seen in figure
9 ,allow an easy connection point for the spring connectors
that go to the tail wheel. These bolts require:
2 x AN42B‐7A Eye Bolt
6 x AN960‐10 Washer
2 x AN365‐1032A Locknut
As you torque the eye bolts (50‐70 inch lbs) make sure you
keep the flat tabs on the ends square to the rudder steering
arm.
Now you can connect the tension spring kit (Aircraft
Spruce P/N 2151) as seen in Figure #346. The link chain
that comes with the kit is longer than needed and will re‐
quire cutting. As you fit the spring kit, you need to make
sure that each side is the same length and that there is a
small amount of pressure on each spring (you should see a
small gap between each coil of the springs)
Note: Your tail wheel is a caster and spins 360 degrees.
The tail wheel shown in Figure #346 is pointing to the
front because the aircraft was pushed backwards into the
hanger.
Figure #344
Figure #345
Figure #346
Section AA05 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Rudder Installation –Page #131
Next thing to do is connect the rudder cable
This job requires the following hardware:
2 x AN23‐9 Clevis Bolts
6 x AN960‐10 Washers
2 x AN960‐10L Thin Washers
2 x AN310‐3 Castle nuts
2 x MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
A Clevis bolt is used here because this is a high shear load
area.
You will notice there are 5 holes in the split steel tabs that
come on the ends of the rudder cables. This is for tension
adjustment on the cables. Use the middle hole to begin
with, as seen in Figure #348, (this is not a clevis bolt in the
photo, just a regular AN3 bolt to demonstrate the center
hole)
The tail is now finished except for the rigging section.
Figure #347
Figure #348
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Skylight & Side Glass Installation –Page #132
This section is going to cover the installation of the side
window glass and the skylight glass.
There are two different side window configurations offered
in the PA‐18 and PA‐12 kits. The “C” Frame shown in Fig‐
ure #349 and the L21 style shown in Figure #350 Both of
these configurations have a glass skylight directly above
the pilots seat. The “C” style has a left & right side window
in the shape of a “C” for the passenger. The L21 style has a
skylight for the passenger and much larger side windows.
For both window styles should start with the side windows.
You will notice that there is a channel or groove for the
glass to sit in located at the bottom and the back of the
window frame. The easiest way to begin is to make a pa‐
per pattern. We suggest using 5 – 6 sheets of heavy Bristol
board paper. Start by placing the Bristol board in the lower
channel and slide it in the rear channel. If you have rare
earth magnets it would be a large help in holding the Bris‐
tol board in place during the pattern process ensuring an
accurate fit. You will have to make 3 cuts in the paper to
have a flat fit 1 for the fuel line 2nd for the wing root attach
point and the 3rd for the rear spar attachment point as
show in Figure #351.
Note: The fuel lines on each side are routed out through the
glass and up in the wing root area. When cutting these holes
in the paper to the hole pattern can be bigger than the fuel
line and cut in a slot fashion as seen in Figure #351. Any
small un‐uniformity in cutting this hole in the window will be
un‐shown by an interior trim cover that will get glued directly
to the plastic. The outside portion will be hidden within in‐
side the wing root fairing.
When tracing out your pattern you will run a straight line
up the forward edge of the rear door post to the bottom of
the rear spar attachment point and then trace along the
top of the air frame as shown in Figure #352. Cut around
the rear spar attachment point and continue up to the top
of the frame.
When you have your paper pattern finished it should work
for both sides of your aircraft. It is suggested that you en‐
sure correct fit by physically checking that the pattern does
indeed fit for the opposite side.
Figure #350
Figure #349
Figure #351
Figure #352
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #133
Now that your side window pattern has been created you
must decide on what kind of plastic you are to use for your
aircraft. We suggest using Lexan due to its durable proper‐
ties. You may use Plexi‐glass if you wish.
For a good straight cut we suggest using a band saw to
make long contoured cuts. If you have not acquired a band
saw then a hand held grinder will also do the same job but
will not give a good clean cut.
If you do use a band saw, lay strips of masking tape onto
the table of the saw as seen in Figure #355. This will help
prevent any possible scratches in the lexan as you make
your cuts. It is a good idea to place a strip of masking tape
onto each cut line that you are going to make to minimize
any possible cracking in the lexan during the cutting proc‐
ess.
Figure #3
Figure #353
Figure #355
Figure #354
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #134
It is easier to have someone help you hold the weight of
the sheet of Lexan as you run it through the band saw. You
will have better control on larger pieces with the needed
help.
Take your time when making each cut & be careful to fol‐
low your lines exactly.
After each piece has been cut and the fit has been checked,
file the edges to remove any burrs.
Figure #3
Figure #356
Figure #358
Figure #357
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #135
Now that we have talked about technique on cutting the
Lexan, lets go ahead and start placing your paper pattern
onto a sheet of Lexan, try to arrange your pieces on the
sheet to best utilize the material.
Place tape down where your outside trace lines need to be
secured to ensure that the paper patterns won’t move,
then trace the perimeter of each side window onto the
plastic. Once all of your patterns are all traced go ahead
and cut out the first window.
Now that you have one side window cut out of the plastic,
you will want to test the fit your glass. Slide your window
in the lower channel and to the rear channel of the opening
to check for a correct fit.
Note: You will need to keep the window held out to clear
the rear wing root attachment point as you slide it in.
Before you remove the window you will need to mark a
hole for the aluminum fuel line shown in Figure #360 item
#1 .These fuel line holes will be one of the hardest holes to
create and maybe necessary to mark and fit the fuel line a
few times to get a good correct fit. You will also have to cut
out a ¾” hole for each of the flap actuator cables as show in
Figure #360 item # 2. This hole requires to be 90 degrees
out from the forward most part of the pulley groove.
Imagine a line from the left flap pulley to the right flap pul‐
ley. Now extend that line left and right until it hits the plas‐
tic. That point is to be the center of the ¾” hole.
After your flap cable holes are marked you can then re‐
move the glass to drill the ¾” flap actuator cable & fuel line
holes.
If the depth of the lexan plastic is to wide and will not fit
between the narrow window channel you will need to taper
the window edge that will go through the channel. If this
happens we suggest to measure the depth of the window
channel with a ruler or scale, then run a strip of masking
tape parallel to the edge of the glass and inset towards the
middle of the sheet by the depth of the channel. You will
need to carefully grind the plastic with a hand held grinder
at a slight angle 5 – 10 degrees max. Make a uniform taper
in the plastic along the side you wish to taper out. Take
care that you do not to cut out past your tape line. Ensure
that you are only grinding the plastic that will be hidden
inside the channel.
Figure #3
Figure #359
Figure #360
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #136
Once the side window are in place, the final step is to trim
the lower front corner in a 45 degree angle. Start by mark‐
ing a line from the bottom of the channel to the center of
the longeron as seen in Figure #362.
It is suggested to use metal guards and secure the guards
by using tape. When cutting the Lexan plastic we suggest
using a knife edge soldering iron to ensure a correct and
straight edge as shown in Figure #363. File any possible
burs smooth in the Lexan plastic. Repeat the past steps for
the other side window.
Rear Skylight Installation:
Securing the rear skylight window will require 8 screws for
each side of the skylight and 8 screws along the top of the
steel air frame. Start measuring the sides of the skylight
first. Start your measurement from the rear wing root tab
3/4” and then measure 3/4” from the rear skylight transi‐
tion 3/4” in. Then measure & mark the 3rd hole at 5” and
the 4th hole at 9” as shown in Figure #364. Ensure that
each of these holes are centered on the metal channel.
Then measure the rear 4 holes starting 3/4” from each tran‐
sition ends. Make each of the holes parallel with the 1st 4
holes so to keep with consistency. Once when all the side
holes are marked drill each hole with a 11/64” drill bit &
then de‐bur any matterial. To mark the 8 holes along the
top of the air frame start the measurement 3/4” from each
end of the frame and 3/4” from the middle spine. Then
evenly mark the other 4 holes.
Figure #361
Figure #363
Figure #364
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #137
The rear passenger skylight had slight bend in the glass.
This bend tapers to nothing towards the front. To achieve
this bend you are required to use a hand brake. Ensure
that the skylight window material still has the protective
coating on it so that the jaws will not to scratch the plastic.
When using the brake drop the jaw of the side you want
the bend on. It is acceptable to only have one jaw closed
on the brake as you make a bend as shown in Figure #365.
Lexan plastic has a natural spring to it so it requires some
over bending. Try 45 degree on the brake and then check
your angle. Keep re‐bending until you achieve the correct
angle.
Note: Due to the high cost of Lexan plastic and the cost of
tooling to correctly create this rear skylight we here at
Turbine Cubs of Wyoming LLC can do this step for you at a
small cost.
After you have successfully created the needed bend in the
rear skylight the window should look like Figure #366.
Place the rear skylight onto the airframe and place the
Lexan on top of the rear channel as shown in Figure #367.
Have the rear skylight’s left & right rear edge flush with the
rear channel and then clamp to the airframe for a quick
measurement. You should notice a slight over hang along
the center spine. Mark the excess plastic and then cut and
remove this excess material.
Figure #365
Figure #367
Figure #366
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #138
Mark the over hanging material on both sides flush with
the airframe as shown in Figure #368 . Then cut off excess
material. After all required cuts are made to the rear sky‐
light slide the Lexan into the rear channel & ensure that the
skylight window in centered, then clamp in position. You
will now mark each hole that you made in the airframe
onto the Lexan. Remove the Skylight and drill out each of
these holes on a flat surface to ensure that no possible
stress cracking happens during the drilling process. We
suggest using a specially ground point , 60 degree tip to
prevent fractures, chipping or cracking the Lexan plastic.
After all of the holes have been cut out of the Lexan place
clecos along the sides of the rear skylight to secure the
plastic in place. Now you are going to measure the top sky‐
light window. Follow the same procedure using the Bristol
board to make a pattern and then cut out the Lexan to fit
for the top skylight position. You will need to create 8 holes
in the top front of the steel airframe.& 4holes for each
side . The top front holes measurement will be the same
measurement as the lower 8 holes for the top rear skylight.
The measurement of the remaining 4 holes for each side of
the top skylight should start 3/4” from the corners of the
air frame and then measure the two holes evenly between
the front holes to the rear holes.
Drill & debur each the holes with the same size drill bit as
before and then secure the top skylight and mark the hole
onto the Lexan remove and then drill each of the marked
holes as described during the past steps.
Place the top skylight onto the airframe and secure with
clecos. The top window will over lap the rear skylight as
shown in Figure #370. This overlapping will help with the
ram airflow pressure. When installing the front windshield
you will over lap the top of the front skylight to complete
the correct air flow.
Note: Do the following steps only after all of the inside wing
root connections are completed. Wing root connection steps
will be covered latter in our manual.
Figure #368
Figure #369
Figure #370
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #139
After all required wing root connections are complete you
will then be ready to place the 4 painted finishing trim
strips. These will be used to cover each of the window tran‐
sitions as shown in Figure #371 . The hardware required to
secure these 4 finishing trims strips are clear plastic wash‐
ers, screws & lock nuts. The clear washers are not supplied
with your kit but may be purchased thru Aircraft Spruce.
These washers are to ensure that your finished paint does
not get damaged during the screw installation. Each of the
screws will go threw the Lexan skylight windows, trim
strips and airframe & the forward 8 screws will screw
through the top of the windshield. Then use lock nuts for
each of the screws. Some of needed locknuts will fit
through the steal airframe channels. Installing these lock‐
nuts maybe a tight fit and may require two people to install
and secure each screw.
Figure #372 shows the side window trim that is required to
hold the side windows in place. Some of the Smith cubs
kits did not come with these trim panels. If you still require
these covers you can purchase them from Turbine Cubs.
Figure #372
Figure #371
Section AA07 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Glass Installation –Page #140
Notice in Figure #373 & 374 the small cut outs for the side
trim strips. Both the top and bottom notching that is re‐
quired is easily done with hand snips and files. This same
type of trim strip is used to hold the “C” framed window in
place.
Figure #374
Figure #373
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #141
This section is going to cover the installation of the wheels
and brakes. When complete your landing gear should look
like a ready to fly landing gear system as in Figure #375.
The tires in are 8.50 x 6 size tires (Aircraft Spruce Part # 06
‐21175) and they come with the tubes. The 850 tire is a
nice size and gives the aircraft a proportionate look. They
a large enough to perform most “off airport “ maneuvering
without sacrificing cruise speed.
The 6” wheels that are standard with the kit will accommo‐
date most any tire size up to and including 31”. Larger than
31” requires a 10” wheel. Keep in mind that 35” tires will
reduce your cruise speed by as much as 20 mph compared
to the 850 tires. Single puck brake calipers are standard
with the kit. If you are going to use 26” tires or larger it is
recommended that you upgrade to the double puck brake
calipers. The mass of the larger tires require the extra
braking force.
Step #1 : Mount Tires
Mount the tires and tubes on to the wheels. When you
open the box with the wheels and brakes inside you will
notice that each wheel assembly is in a plastic bag. Open
the bag and remove the wheel assembly. You will notice a
warning label notifying you that you must repack the
wheel bearings. We will get to that later.
The wheel assembly is held together with 3 x 5/16” bolts.
You will need 2 ‐ ratchet wrenches with 2 ‐ 1/2” sockets. It
will also be easier to have short socket extensions to reach
in to the bolts due to the design of the wheel. Remove the
3 bolts that hold the wheel assembly together. The assem‐
bly will split in to two halves along the wheel split line seen
in Figure #376.
Clean the inside of the tire, making sure there are no parti‐
cles of debris from packing and shipping. Lubricate the
inside of the tire lightly with talc (baby powder). Inflate the
tube to slightly round. Lubricate the tube as well with talc.
You want only a light dusting over the tube and inside the
tire. This will prevent the tube from sticking to the inside
of the tire during inflation.
Figure #376
Figure #375
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #142
Insert the tube in to the tire with the valve stem facing
away from the red balance dot seen in Figure #377. The
red balance dot will be on the back side of the tire and the
valve stem will face the front or outside of the tire. This is
done so that when looking at the aircraft from the side, the
balance marks are not noticeable.
Bolt the two wheel halves back together around the tire.
Make sure that when you mate the front half of the wheel
to the tire, the valve stem on the tube goes through the
valve stem hole. Be cautious that the tube does not get
pinched between the wheel halves as they mate together.
If you have trouble with this you can deflate the tube
slightly when mating the wheel halves.
Install and tighten the three 5/16” bolts to 150 inch pounds
of torque. The heads of the bolts are on the brake disc side
of the wheel with the nuts on the valve stem side. The
torque value is also printed on the data tag on the wheels
as seen in Figure #377.
Inflate the tires to their rated pressure. Deflate the tires to
allow them to equalize stretch. Re‐inflate the tires to rated
pressure. When finished they should look like the tires in
Figure #378.
Figure #377
Figure #378
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #143
Pack the Bearings
Inside one of the plastic bags that hold the wheel assem‐
blies will be Grove Aircrafts Installation Instructions.
There will also be a “CAUTION” note advising you that the
bearings need to be packed with grease. The Grove in‐
struction sheet notifies you that the manufacturer put a
small amount of Aeroshell‐22 grease on the bearings so
they would not corrode during shipping. It is your respon‐
sibility to completely pack the wheel bearings with more
grease. It is recommended that you use more Aeroshell‐22
grease (Aircraft Spruce part # 08‐05490) . If you decide to
use some other type is grease it is recommended that you
completely clean the manufacturers shipping grease off of
the bearings. Do this by using Varsol and a small clean
paint brush to wash the grease off. Once completely clean
and dry you may pack the bearing with some other wheel
bearing grease. The logical solution is just to use more of
the same grease the manufacturer recommends.
To access the bearings you need to first remove the re‐
tainer ring as seen in Figure #379. A flat screw driver
works well to un‐seat the ring from its groove. Be careful
not to distort the spring by applying too much force. When
prying the spring out of its groove cover the spring with
your other hand so that it does not fly across the room or in
to your face.
After the spring is removed, remove the seal cover seen in
Figure #389.
Figure #379
Figure #388
Figure #389
Section AA08Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #144
Next remove the protective felt ring seen in Figure #390.
You should now be able to lift the bearing out of the wheel
by grabbing the red protective dust cap. The bearing is
actually stuck to the washer by the packing grease. Hold
the large washer in one hand and the bearing in the other.
You should be able to separate the bearing from the
washer and dust cap.
Set the bearing down on a clean surface (old newspaper)
and arrange all the other pieces that you removed on the
bench. Now repeat this same process with the other side
of the wheel and also the other complete wheel so that
when finished you have all 4 bearings laid out in front of
you. It is not necessary but a good practice to keep all the
other parts from each bearing assembly separated.
Now you can pack all 4 bearings at the same time. You can
see in Figure #392 that you want to completely fill in the
space between the inner and outer race of each bearing.
This is the space between each of the little round rods all
around the bearing. It is cleaner to use latex gloves for this
next step but not necessary.
Figure #391
Figure #392
Figure #390
Section AA08Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #145
Place a golf ball size dollop of grease in the palm of your
left hand (assuming you are right handed). Holding the
bearing in your right hand and work the grease in to the
bearing until the grease is coming out the top of each
space between the rollers. The photo below is not the ac‐
tual grease used, because it is the wrong color, but is
meant to give you the idea of the method required to prop‐
erly pack the bearing.
When you have packed all the bearings, install them in to
the wheels in the exact reverse order as you took the bear‐
ings out. Make sure the retainer lock rings are seated in
their groves and secure. At this point you should have new
grease in all your bearings and the rudder installed on to
the rims.
Set the tires aside and you are going to put the brake
mounting plates and calipers on to the axel.
Your axels are likely resting on blocks of wood on the floor
as seen in Figure #394. You need to lift the axels up on to
higher blocks of wood that will allow you to install the
brakes and wheels. It is recommended you have two peo‐
ple do this step. The easiest way to do this is to stick a pipe
through the end of the axel. The pipe shown here is a pre‐
bent pipe and did not bend from lifting the aircraft. One
person can lift the axel up using the pipe while the other
slides the wood blocks under the axel.
You can see a sample of the wood blocks in Figure #395.
Notice the paper towel between the wood block and the
newly painted surface of the gear leg.
Now you need to clean any paint from the powder coating
process and any material from the four holes that will bolt
the brake mounting plate to the gear leg. Use a 5/16” ream
to clean the bolt holes. Be careful to keep the ream parallel
with the axel as you spin it in the four holes.
Figure #393
Figure #394
Figure #395
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #146
Install the brake mounting plate on to the axel as seen in
Figure #396. Note the direction the plate faces and the
bushings are facing forward. Also note the bushings are
longer on the inside and this longer side faces the center
line of aircraft.
The four mounting holes in the brake backing plate are 3/8”
in size. You just finished cleaning the mounting holes on
the gear leg with a 5/16” ream. These are obviously not the
same size. The manufacturer includes 8 bushings to step
down these holes from 3/8” to 5”16”. It is important that
each of the four holes on the brake caliper mounting plate
get a 3/8” to 5/16” step down bushing.
NOTE: It has come to our attention that the manufac‐
turer included 4 bushings in some wheel and brake sets
and 8 bushings in other sets. If you received only4 bush‐
ing in your wheel and brake set please contact us and we
will send you the other 4. The manufacturer has been
made aware of this mishap and from the time of writing
this section all wheel and brake kits will include 8 of these
bushings.
Figure #396
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #147
Once a 3/8” to 5/16” step down bushing is installed in to
each of the four holes of each mounting plate you can in‐
stall the bolts. The hardware list requires:
8 x AN5‐6A Bolts
8 x AN960‐516 Washers on the head
8 x AN960‐516L Thin washers on the nut
8 x AN365‐524 Locknuts)
When installing the bolts and washers and nuts ,you want
to have a thick washer on the head of the bolt before in‐
serting in to the hole. Then you want to install a thin
washer and a elastic stop nut. The nuts on the upper two
bolts are going to be very close to the gear leg structure. If
necessary you can swap the thick and thin washers so that
the thick washer is on the head and the thin washer is on
the nut side. This will give you a bit more clearance be‐
tween the end of the bolt and the gear leg.
Tighten all four bolts on each gear leg between 100‐140
inch lbs or 8.33‐11.66 foot pounds. Use a 1/2” wrench to
hold the nut and a torque wrench with a 1/2” socket and
extension on the head of the bolt. This is depicted in Fig‐
ure #397.
After the four bolts are tightened you need to install the
wheel spacer. The wheel spacer is roughly 1 13/16” long
and 1 1/2” ID. It should slide on to the axel with little ef‐
fort.
Figure #397
Figure #398 Figure #399
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #148
The next step is to install the wheel and tire assembly on to
the axel. You will notice that the inner bearing of the
wheel contacts the edge of the wheel spacer. The wheel
spacer tube maintains the proper spacing between the
brake disc and the brake caliper. Obviously, make sure
that the valve stem is facing out and the brake discs face
the center of the aircraft.
Now you need to pre‐load the wheel bearings. Rotate the
wheel and tire while tightening the axel nut until it is so
tight that you are unable to turn the wheel and tire. Care
must be taken to not damage the valve stem during this
process. Loosen the axel nut just enough so that the wheel
and tire are on the “edge” of rotating freely. Install a safety
cotter pin through the axel nut and axel as seen in Figure
#400.
Cotter pins required : 2 x AN381‐4‐40
These cotter pins are a little long (2 1/2”) and will need to
be cut to length with side cutters. You will bend one side
180 degrees around the nut, estimate the length and trim
the excess. Then bend the end in until it almost contacts
the main part of the cotter pin. The other side of the cotter
pin requires a 90 degree bend backwards towards the bear‐
ing. Estimate the length and trim with side cutters before
bending. You want the end to be as long as possible with‐
out actually touching the bearing’s protective dust cap.
Some of the earlier Smith Aviation landing gear legs did
not have a deep enough grove in the end of the axel to ac‐
cept the cotter pin. If you tighten the axel nut and discover
the grove is not deep enough, you need to remove some
more material. The easiest method is to use an angle
grinder as seen in Figure #401. You could also use a small
round file to do this job. Whatever method used, be very
careful to not damage the threads on the axel.
Figure #401
Figure #400
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #149
Next you are going to install the Brake Calipers. Notice
that on one end of the brake caliper there is a brass fitting
with a black rubber plug on the end. This is the bleeder
plug. On the other end of the caliper there should be a
plastic plug that you need to remove. This is the hole that
accepts an elbow. The fitting used here is a AN822‐4D.
On the pipe threaded end (not the compression end) put
some LOCTITE 545 thread sealant on to the threads.
Tighten the fitting so that when done ,the elbow faces to‐
ward the two pins as seen in Figure #402.
Next remove the two bolts that hold the outer brake pad
plate on to the brake caliper assembly. This requires a
7/16” wrench and is shown in Figure #403 and Figure
#404.
Figure #402
Figure #404
Figure #403
Section AA08 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Main Wheels & Brakes –Page #150
Install the brake caliper on to the mounting plate by sliding
the outer brake pad between the tire and disc as seen in
Figure #405. Slide the caliper (with the inner brake pad)
pins in to the holes on the mounting plate. Install the bolts
that you just removed in Figure #406 and torque between
100‐140 inch pounds (8.33‐11.66 foot pounds).
Figure #405
Figure #406
Figure #407 Figure #408
Section AA09 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake Line Installation –Page #151
Connect each top gear leg brake hose to the forward mas‐
ter brake cylinder 90° fittings. Check all the hose connec‐
tions & elbows to make sure they are all tight, example
shown in Figures #409, 410, 411 & 412.
Figure #409
Figure #410
Figure #411
Figure #412
Section AA09 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Brake Line Installation –Page #152
Attach a tube from the nozzle of a pressure tank containing
the brake fluid to the brake bleeder valve as shown in Fig‐
ure #413. Make sure that the hose is bubble free before
attaching.
Have one helper press & hold forward on one of the master
cylinder shaft to fully extended to open up the internal by‐
pass valve, as shown in Figure #414.
Then open the bleeder valve. Pump brake fluid from the
bleeder valve up in to the reservoir, until reservoir supply is
about 1/4” full. Close the bleeder valve when complete and
remove the service hose, as shown in Figure #415. Have
your helper release the master cylinder pedal.
Repeat the same steps for the other side, but 3/4 fill the
reservoir with the brake fluid. After you have completed
both sides you will bleed the brake system to ensure no air
is in the lines.
Have your helper press and hold the other side master cyl‐
inder pedal. Take a clean container to capture the brake
fluid and open the other side bleeder valve, allow any brake
fluid to drain in to the container. Close the bleeder valve
and have your helper release the master cylinder and re‐
press again. Open the bleeder valve again and capture the
brake fluid. Repeat until all air pockets are removed. Close
the brake bleeder valve.
When finished, the brake pedal should feel firm and not
spongy. Repeat the same steps for the other side.
Figure #413
Figure #414
Figure #415
Figure #416
Section ENG03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Engine Baffling –Page #153
When installing the engine baffling you can either make
your own or purchase our engine baffling kit. Our baffling
kits will save you a lot of time, frustration & will ensure that
you will have a good fit.
Figure #417 shows our baffling kit laid out from front to
back. We have laid out our kit in this fashion to give you a
good idea in how to install the kit on your engine.
You will need to make slight modifications to the baffling
kit to have it mount correctly on your engine.
Start with panel #1. The panel will be placed at the forward
front right side of the engine. As you fit the panel in posi‐
tion, you should see a place on the engine where you can
mount the plate. Figure #418 has an arrow pointing to the
location where we drilled a hole through the panel and
connected it to the engine. Mark the location on the plate
and drill the needed hole. Remove the bolt from the en‐
gine and place it through the panel and back in to the en‐
gine. Leave the bolt finger tight. We will later have to re‐
move all of the baffling panels to place on the rubber de‐
flectors.
Place panel #2 on the front right side of the engine. It will
fit around the rocker cover. You will see two spots where
you can install screws through the panel and in the engine.
At this point, mark the securing points between panel #1 &
#2. You may need to drill these locations and place nuts &
bolts to hold the two panels together.
Figure #417
Figure #418
Figure #419
Section ENG03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Engine Baffling –Page #154
Panel #4 will require the spark plug hole to be drilled out,
lockwire hole to be created on the lower tab location and
will need to have rivet holes created between Panel #4 and
Panel #3. Panel #4 will be attached to #3 panel using 4 or
more rivets. Place the panels together as shown in Figure
#420. Mark, drill and rivet the locations.
The lockwire will string through the hole and connect to
the front #1 panel. This will force the baffling panels to
hug the engine tightly to ensure correct airflow.
Place the panels on the engine and secure using the two
screw locations around the rocker cover. The screw loca‐
tions are shown in Figure #421 items 1‐4.
Place panel #9 left side forward of the engine. You should
see two locations where this panel will be secured to the
engine. Mark the two locations and drill out the needed
holes. Figure #422 shows the panel secured to the engine.
Place panel #8 over the forward left side rocker cover and
secure to the engine using two screws. Mark four securing
locations between Panel #9 & #8. Drill and rivet the four
locations. The holes you will need to create are shown in
Figure #423.
Figure #420
Figure #421
Figure #423
Figure #422
Section ENG03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Engine Baffling –Page #155
The next step is to sub‐assemble panels #5, #6 & #7 to‐
gether. Drill out a total of 8 holes. Figure #424 shows
three holes evenly spaced between panel #5 and panel #6.
Center the holes on the #5 bent edge. Drill through both
the #5 panel and through #6 panel. Rivet the 3 locations
together.
Place panel #7 under panel #6. Mark 3 evenly spaced loca‐
tion for rivets 1/2” from the edge of panel #6. You may
need to drill out a lockwire location in panel #5 & panel #6
& create a hole in panel #6 for the spark plug wires, as
shown in Figure #425.
Place the panels on the left side of the engine & secure the
panels to the engine by placing two screws through panel
#7 and around the left side rear rocker cover. The left side
assembly will look like Figure #426.
The rear panels #4 & #5 will need to be secured together
using either a bolt or rivet. Mark and drill through both
panels to create a securing point.
At this point the rubber deflector will need to be cut to fit
around your baffling. It is suggested you make the rubber
baffling in to 5 separate pieces, two for the left & right side
top, two for the left & right side lower front & one for the
top rear of the engine. Figure #427 shows the baffling
installed all the way around the engine.
The rubber baffling should be about 3” wide. 1” of the rub‐
ber will be mounted on the metal panels and the left over
2” will be hanging over the metal panels. Cut the rubber to
fit. When all of the rubber has been created, use spring
clamps to hold in place, drill rivet hole locations spaced
about 1” apart. Start from one end, drill the hole and place
a washer on a rivet. Run the rivet through the rubber &
metal baffling, then pop the rivet in place. Repeat the
process until all of the baffling is secured.
Figure #424
Figure #425
Figure #426
Figure #427
Section ENG03 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Engine Baffling –Page #156
Figure #428 shows one of two rubber grommet used to
protect the spark plug wires from rubbing the metal baf‐
fling. You can use any type of rubber grommet that will
keep the wires from rubbing / chaffing on the metal baf‐
fling. However, if you use a large grommet that will allow
air to go through it, you may have to silicone the opening
of the grommet to stop the air from going through it. We
suggest you use a solid grommet and cut out the unwanted
rubber and fit the spark plug wires into it.
When the rubber baffling has been installed the next step
is to run the lockwire between the front metal baffling and
the rear baffling. Examples are shown in Figure #429 &
#430.
Figure #428
Figure #429
Figure #430
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #157
Find the 4 lift strut forks item (#W18B) Use a caliper to
measure two of the forks, adjust the fork’s nut 2.360” from
the center of the fork’s bolt hole, then adjust the other two
fork’s nuts at 2.298” an example is shown in Figure #431.
Place tape on each nut and fork, so that the nut does not
move out of the set measurement, example shown in Fig‐
ure #432. Use a magic marker to mark what fork is the
front and rear. The front fork will be the longest measure‐
ment from the nut.
To place all 4 forks on the air frame, use a dead blow ham‐
mer. Lightly tap each fork in position. Take special care
that you do not scratch or chip the airframes power coated
paint, as seen in Figure #433.
Figure #431
Figure #432
Figure #433
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #158
When each fork is set in place use a NAS1106‐10D bolt and
place in to the top of the fork and through the airframe.
Use a metal punch and hammer to install each bolt. We
suggest using an old towel or blanket to cover the side of
the aircraft. The towel / blanket will help reduce any possi‐
ble damage to the aircrafts paint during install, shown in
Figure #434.
Place a AN960‐616 washer on the end of the bolt, then
torque a AN310‐6 castle nut to 18.74 foot pounds and then
install the MS24665‐283 cotter pin. Bend cotter pin to
complete each fork, shown in Figure #435.
Note: You may need to turn the nut back one hole to fit
cotter pin in place after torque.
Brush on permatex anti‐seize (Part# 09‐28410) on each
fork’s threads and lightly wipe off the excess with a paper
towel. The threads should have a even covering as shown
in Figure #436.
Place the aircraft in a wide open area so that you will have
enough room to install both wings on to the aircraft. Use 1
saw horses and place the wing tip on it, the other saw
horse should be placed at the 5th rib from the root end, as
shown in Figure #437. Not doing this could damage the
wing’s fabric.
Figure #434
Figure #435
Figure #436
Figure #437
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #159
Clean the airframes wing connecting points with a 5/16”
ream tool, as shown in Figure #438. Make sure that the
ream tool is straight when cleaning these holes. It is sug‐
gested to use a pair of vise grips to clamp on to the ream
tool so that you can get in to the tight angles. All that you
should need to clean is the power coated paint in the at‐
tachment point.
When installing each wing, you will need the assistance of
2 other people (3 people in total). Have one person lift and
carry the wing at the tip, the other to hold at the wings
root. Carefully lift and position the wing in to place so that
the front and rear spars slide through the steel brackets of
the airframe. The third person will need to use 2 small
punches or drift pins to temporally secure the wing in
place, by sliding the pins through the steel brackets on the
airframe (with the spars positioned in between each steel
fitting), example shown in Figure #439.
The person who gets chosen to lift the wing at the tip, will
be required to hold the wing up while the other two people
get the lift struts installed. It might be a good idea to have
the strongest helper located at the tip. The person at the
wing tip will be needed to make slight adjustments when
installing the lift struts. With the help of another person
thread on the front lift strut until the strut touches the
fork’s nut. The thick end of the strut must be facing for‐
ward for a correct install. The end of the strut needs to be
held high when screwing on to the fork, as seen in Figure
#440. Take great care when installing each lift strut, the
last thing that you want to do, is cross thread these items.
Place the front lift strut on to the wing, use a small punch
or drift pin to hold in position, as seen in Figure #441.
Figure #438
Figure #439
Figure #440
Figure #441
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #160
To install the rear lift strut, follow the same procedures
that you did for the front strut. When both struts are in
place, you can use a step latter to hold the wing up, keep‐
ing the aircraft and wing from tipping over. It is suggested
to use either some pillows or blankets to protect the fabric
and paint when doing this. The pillows or blankets will
also assist with keeping the aircraft level, as shown in Fig‐
ure #442.
When both the front and rear lift struts are in place remove
the front small punch holding pin and replace it with a AN5
‐17A bolt & a AN960‐516 washer. The head of the bolt
must be facing forward. Use a hammer and a driving pin to
carefully knock in place, as shown in Figure #443. When
the bolt is through place a AN960‐516 washer on the end
of the bolt then use a AN365‐524A locknut. Then torque
the nut at 100‐140 inch lbs (8.33‐116.66 foot lbs) to com‐
plete.
Remove the rear holding pin and replace it with a AN5‐15A
Bolt & a AN960‐516 washer. Again the head of the bolt
must be facing forward as well. Carefully tap the bolt in
place with a hammer and driving pin, shown in Figure
#445. When the bolt is through place a AN960‐516
washer on the end of the bolt then use a AN365‐524A lock‐
nut. Then torque the nut at 18.74 foot pounds to complete.
Figure #442
Figure #443
Figure #445
Figure #447 Figure #446
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Lift struts & tie down rings) –Page #161
Remove the holding pin from the front lift strut and place a
tie down ring on the wings attachment point. Take a AN5‐
33A bolt and slide it in to the tie down ring and lift strut.
The bolts head must be placed forward, then place the 3/4”
spacer bushing at the end of the bolt then place the pulley
assembly kit on the end of the bolt. Place a AN960‐516
washer and a AN365‐524A locknut to finish. The final as‐
sembly is shown in Figure #448.
Note: The pulley assembly bracket must be installed at
the same angle as the lift strut. Torque the bolt and locknut
at 18.74 foot pounds to complete.
Remove the rear lift strut holding pin and replace it with a
AN5‐22A bolt, the head of the bolt must be facing forward.
Slide a AN960‐516 washer on the end of the bolt and finish
with a AN365‐524A locknut. Torque the bolt and nut at
18.74 foot pounds to complete.
When the front and rear lift struts are complete, repeat the
same procedures for the other wing and lift struts.
Installing Jury Struts
Find the front and rear jury strut clamps item (#W25 &
W26). Cut to size a strip of Teflon anti‐chafe tape and in‐
stall the Teflon tape inside each strut clamp, as shown in
Figure #450.
Bend up two plumb lines, you could use old clothes hang‐
ers to make these or any metal rods. The main thing to
remember is to make the plumb lines straight, as shown in
Figure #451.
Figure #448
Figure #449
Figure #450
Figure #451
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Jury struts) –Page #162
The airframe must be level to have a correct plumb line
location. Place a level along the top of the airframe by the
front or rear window. When the airframe is level, hang two
plumb lines in the jury strut holes attached at the wing,
shown in Figure #452.
Use a long ruler to mark the center line on each lift strut.
The ruler should be long enough to touch both front and
rear lift strut. Mark a center line for both lift struts, shown
in Figure #453.
Then install the front jury strut clamps. The front clamp
will have a retainer clip on the backside of the clamp. Place
the clamp center of your line, as shown in Figure #454.
Place a AN960‐10 washer on a AN3‐13A bolt , then run the
bolt through the forward side of the front jury bracket then
place a AN960‐10L washer on the bolt then thread a jury
bracket tab on to the bolt with a AN960‐10L washer on the
other side of the tab. Run the bolt through the other side of
the jury bracket and then place a AN960‐10 washer and
AN365‐1032 locknut on the end of the bolt. Figure #23
shows the full assembly.
Figure #452
Figure #453
Figure #454
Figure #455
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Jury struts) –Page #163
Pitot line to left side jury strut installation
Take the front left side jury strut and measure 5” from the
tip and use a magic marker to make a mark on the front
edge. Use a center hole punch to score a starting mark and
drill this location with a 1/8” Drill bit to start the hole. Drill
the hole at a 45° angle. Then use a 17/64” drill bit to
enlarge the hole as shown in Figure #456. Then repeat the
same steps to the other side & end of the jury strut.
Cut a 2 foot piece of 03‐40400 ¼” aluminum tubing. Slide
one end of the tubing in to the front side drill hole of the
jury strut, then run the tubing through to the other drill
hole. Leave 5” on each end of the tubing, then make 90°
bends on both ends of the tubing, as shown in Figure
#457.
Solder the aluminum tubing to the jury strut by using a
propane torch. First heat both the jury strut and then alu‐
minum tubing. The jury strut will take a bit longer to heat
up then the small aluminum tube. When both items are
heated enough place solder between the jury strut and the
tubing, fill the drill hole with solder, do not worry to much if
its not pretty, the main concern is that the hole is com‐
pletely filled, as shown in Figure #458.
You will need to repeat this step to the other side of the
jury strut.
When the jury strut and aluminum tube are cooled file the
solder so that its smooth and ecstatically pleasing, as
shown in Figure #459.
Figure #456
Figure #457
Figure #458
Figure #459
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Jury struts) –Page #164
Place a front jury strut item #W23 on one side of the wings
front tab location. The jury strut must be centered on the
tab & the tip of the jury strut must not touch or rum the
bottom of the wing. Use a magic marker and mark
through the wings tab a center hole location, as seen in
Figure #460.
Use a #11 Drill bit to drill the marked location, as shown in
Figure #461.
Place a AN3‐4A bolt through the jury strut and wing tab,
then place a AN355‐1032 locknut at the end of the bolt to
temporally hold the jury strut in place. Place the lower end
of the jury strut to the front lift strut clamp tab. Have the
jury strut centered to the tab and mark a center hole loca‐
tion. You may have to cut the jury struts length to have a
correct fit.
Remove the jury strut and drill the second hole.
After the second hole has been created and the length of
the jury strut is to your satisfaction place the jury strut on
to the wings attachment point. The jury strut should sit in
between the wind’s tab. Place a AN3‐5A bolt through the
jury strut & the wing tab , as shown in Figure #463.
Figure #460
Figure #461
Figure #462
Figure #463
Section AA11 Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Wing Installation (Jury struts) –Page #165
Place the lower end of the jury strut in between the lift
strut’s tab. Place a AN3‐5A bolt through the holes, the
bolts head must be pointing away from the aircraft, as
shown in Figure #464.
Note: Repeat the same steps for the other three jury struts.
When all four jury struts are in place measure in between
the front lower jury strut bolt location to the rear lower jury
strut bolt location. Take the measurement of the distance.
Find the jury strut spacer bar item #W27 and center the
distance of your measurement along the length of the
spacer bar. At both ends of the bar, mark a center hole
location and drill using a #11 drill bit. Place the spacer bar
in between the two lift struts and slide on to the lower jury
bolts, as shown in Figure #465.
Note: Repeat the same steps for the other sides spacer bar.
The final out come should look like Figure #466.
When both sets of jury struts and spacer bars are complete,
label each item so when you remove them to paint, the re‐
assembly process will become much easier.
The final assembly for both sets of jury struts will use a
AN960‐10 washer on the head of the AN3‐5A bolt, run the
bolt through the jury strut, lift strut tab and spacer bar.
Place another AN960‐10 washer on the end of the bolt and
complete with a AN365‐1032 locknut for the lower jury
struts. The upper jury struts use a AN3‐5A bolt with a
AN960‐10 washer on the head of the bolt. Place the bolt
through the jury strut & through the wing attachment
point, place two AN960‐10 washers on the end of the bolt
and complete with a AN365‐1032 locknut.
Figure #464
Figure #465
Figure #466
Figure #467
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #166
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
TOP & BOTTOM STRINGERS 24 AN526C 440‐16 1” Truss‐head screws
24 Ms21044N04 Locknuts
SIDE STRINGERS 15 AN526C 440‐8 1/2” Truss‐head screws
15 Ms21044N04 Locknuts
REAR TRIM INDICATOR PULLEY 1 AN3‐7 Bolt
1 AN3‐10 Washer
1 AN310‐3 Castle nut
1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
2 AN526C 1032‐14 Truss‐head screws
2 MS21044N3 Locknuts
TRIM INDICATOR CABLE BRACKET 1 AN3‐7 Bolt
2 AN960‐10 Washers
1 AN310‐3 Castle nut
1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
JACK SCREW SUB‐ASSEMBLY 1 MS15003‐6 90 degree zerk fitting (grease nipple)
2 AN5‐7 Bolts
2 AN960‐516 Washers
2 AB960‐516L Washers
2 MS24665‐136 Cotter pins
JACK SCREW 3 AN960‐616 Washer
1 An960‐616L Washer
1 AN310‐6 Castel nut
1 MS24665‐140 Cotter pin
1” TRIM CABLE PULLEYS 2 AN3‐7 Bolts
2 AN960‐10 Washers
2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts
2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
FRONT IDLER PULLEY BRACKET 1 AN3‐5A Bolt
1 AN3‐5 Bolt
4 AN960‐3 Washers
1 AN365‐1032 Locknut
1 AN3103‐3 Castel nut
1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
REAR TRIM INDICATOR CABLE 1 AN3‐6 Bolt
1 AN960‐10L Washer
1 AN960‐10 Washer
1 AN380‐3 Castle nut
1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
TRIM INDICATOR POST INSTALL 2 CCP‐32 Rivets
1 AN366F‐1032A Anchor Nut
1 Unknown Part # Indicator Post
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #167
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
BALANCE CABLE PULLEY 1 AN3‐7 Bolt
1 AN3‐10 Washer
1 AN3‐10L Washer
1 AN310‐3 Castle nut
1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
1 MS24665‐283 Cotter pin
RUDDER TEMPORARY INSTALL 2 MS20392‐3C53 Clevis pins
VERTICAL FIN INSTALL 1 AN3‐12A Bolt
1 AN3‐12 Bolt 3 AN960‐10 Washers
1 AN310‐3 Castle nut
2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
VERTICAL FIN SADDLE 1 CCP‐44 Rivets
1 AN526C 440‐8 Screw
1 MS21044N04 Locknut
FLOOR BOARDS –REAR BAGGAGE 18 18 x 13 x 1” Machine screws
18 AN365‐1032A Lock nuts
TORQUE TUB STOPS 2 AN3‐12A Bolts
2 1/4” Nuts
FLOOR BOARDS—2ND FRONT 4 10‐32 x1” Screws
2 AN960‐10 Washers
4 AN365‐1032A Lock nuts
2 AN970‐3 Penny washers
RUDDER PEDALS 4 D346000 Return Springs
16 AN3‐7A Bolts
16 AN960‐10 Washers
16 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
FLAP PULLEYS 5 AN5‐16A Bolts
5 AN970‐5 Large Penny Washers
8 AN960‐516 Washers
5 AN365‐524A Locknuts
REAR ELEVATOR BRACKETS 2 AN3‐5A Bolts
2 AN960‐10 Washers
2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts
2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
REAR ELEVATOR PULLEYS 2 AN3‐12 Bolts
4 AN960‐10 Washers
2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts
2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
FRONT ELEVATOR PULLEY 1 AN5‐10 Bolt
2 AN960‐516 Washers
1 AN310‐5 Castle nut
2 MS24665‐138 Cotter pin
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #168
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
TORQUE TUBE 1” Pulley 1 AN3‐7 Bolt
2 AN960‐10 Washers
1 AN310‐3 Castle nut
1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
TORQUE TUBE SADDLES 4 AN4‐14A Bolts
4 AN960‐416 Washers
4 AN365‐428A Locknuts
TORQUE TUBE CONTROL STICK 2 AN4‐23 Bolts
4 AN960‐416 Washers
2 AN310‐4 Castle nuts
2 MS24665‐134 Cotter pins
TORQUE TUBE CONNECTION TUBE 2 AN24‐14 Clevis pins
2 AN960‐416L Washers
2 AN320‐4 Shear nuts
2 MS24665‐281 Cotter pins
RUDDER CABLE TO PEDALS 4 AN3‐5 Bolts
8 AN960‐10 Washers
4 AN310‐3 Castle nuts
4 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
REAR RUDDER CABLE PULLEYS 2 AN3‐10 Bolts
6 AN960‐10 Washers
2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts
2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
LOWER AILERON PULLEYS 2 AN3‐7 Bolts
4 AN960‐10 Washers
2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts
2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
FRONT BRAKE PEDALS 8 AN3‐15A Bolts
8 AN960‐10 Washers
8 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
BRAKE CONNECTING RODS 4 AN3‐7 Bolts
4 AN970‐3 Penny washers
4 AN960‐3 Washers
4 AN310‐3 Castle nuts
4 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
HEEL BRAKES 8 AN3‐10 Bolts
8 AN970‐3 Washers
8 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
4 AN822‐4D 90° Elbow flared and pipe threaded
BRAKE RESERVOIR INSTALLATION 1 A‐315 Reservoir (firewall mounted style)
2 NAS1801‐3‐8 Bolts
2 CCP‐44 Rivets
1 AN825‐4D Fuel Tee flared & pipe threaded on side
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #169
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
GEAR LEG BRAKE LINES 8ft 03‐39300 1/4” Aluminum tubing
4 MS21919‐WDG4 Adel clamps 4 AN526C 1032‐8 S/S Machine Screws
4 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
4 AN818‐4 Nuts
4 AN819‐4D Sleeves
2 AN815‐4D Unions
2 AN822‐4 Elbows
FUEL VALVE MODIFICATION 1 6749 Weather head fuel shut‐off valve
FUEL SYSTEM 50ft 03‐40600 3/8” Aluminum tubing
4 AN825‐6D Tee
1 AN914‐2D Elbow
1 AN822‐6D Elbow
10 AN819‐6D Sleeves
10 AN818‐6D Nuts
1 AN929‐6D Cap
2 AN816‐6D Nipple
6 AN912‐2D Bushing 3/8” to 1/4” pipe thread reducer
2 AN910‐2D Pipe threaded coupling
2 CAV‐160 1/4 NPT SAF‐AIR Drain valve
6 04‐00049 3/8” T Series Cap plugs (unthreaded)
2 AN924‐6D 3/8” Flared tube bulkhead nuts
8 MS21919‐WDG6 3/8” Adel clamps
6 AN526C‐1032‐10 Stainless steel machine screws 8 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
1 bag 11‐04229 Cable ties
BATTERY CABLES & GROUND WIRE 1 11‐02233 12 Volt battery
1 111‐226 Master relay
30 ft 11‐14502 #2 AWG battery cable
10 ft 11‐14510 #10 AWG battery cable
100 ft 11‐14514 #14 AWG Wire for solenoids & Instrument Panel
4 MS21919‐DG6 3/8” Adel clamps
2 AN526C 1032‐8 1032 x 1/2” Machine screws
2 K1000‐3 10‐32 Anchor nuts
1 bag 11‐04229 Cable ties
2 MS25226‐8‐4 Buss bars
WING WIRING HARNESS ? ft 11‐14516 16 Gauge wire (navigation lights)
? ft 11‐14514 14 Gauge wire (Landing light &Aux fuel pump)
25 T4X4 #4 Truss head type A stainless screws
WING AUXILIARY FUEL PUMP 2 AN816‐6D Nipple
8 AN818‐6D Nut
8 AN819‐6D Sleeve
2 AN821‐6D Elbow
PITOT STATIC LINE 10 ft 03‐40400 1/4” Aluminum Tubing
25 T4X4 #4 Truss head type A stainless screws
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #170
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY 4 AN6‐26 Bolts for Conventional steps
4 AN6‐25 Bolts for Non‐Conventional steps
12 AN960‐616 Washers
4 AN310‐6 Castle nuts
4 MS24665‐283 Cotter pins
LANDING GEAR –SIDE STEP 1 AN3‐5 Bolt
2 AN960‐10 Washers
1 AN310‐3 Castle nut
1 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
LANDING GEAR—CABANE V 2 AN5‐17A Bolts
4 AN960‐516 Washers
2 AN310‐5 Castle nuts
2 MS24665‐138 Cotter pins
SHOCK STRUTS—UPPER 2 AN6‐17 Bolts
4 AN960‐616 Washers
2 AN310‐6 Castle nut
2 MS24665‐283 Cotter pins
SHOCK STRUTS—LOWER 2 AN6‐22 Bolts
2 AN960‐616 Washers
2 AN310‐6 Castle nut
2 MS24665‐283 Cotter pins
TAIL WHEEL 1 AN7‐21A Bolt
1 AN6‐26A Bolt
1 AN5‐17A Bolt
1 AN960‐716 Washer
3 AN960‐616 Washer
3 AN960‐516 Washer
1 AN365‐720A Locknut
1 AN365‐624A Locknut
1 AN365‐524A Locknut
STABILIZER 2 AN3‐13A Bolts
2 AN3‐14A Bolts
8 AN960‐10 Washers
4 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
TAIL BRACE WIRES 3 AN4‐15A Bolts
2 AN3‐5A Bolts
2 U40131‐00 Bent Washers ‐ Univair P/N
9 AN960‐10 Washers
4 U82732‐072 Bushings ‐ Univair P/N
5 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
PA‐18 Hardware Requirements Rev # 1.0 Backcountry Super Cubs
Hardware List by group –Page #171
Note: All part numbers listed below are Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
Amount Part Number Description
ELEVATORS 1 AN3‐7A Bolt
1 AN3‐7 Bolt
1 AN6‐7A Bolt
2 AN23‐11 Clevis bolts
4 AN394‐55 Clevis pins
6 AN960‐10 Washers
8 AN960‐416 Washers
4 AN960‐416L Washers
2 AN960‐616 Washers
1 AN365‐624A Locknut
1 AN365‐1032A Locknut
4 AN310‐3 Castle nuts
7 MS24665‐132 Cotter pin
RUDDER 2 AN3‐13A Bolts
2 AN42B‐7A Bolts
2 AN23‐9 Clevis bolts
2 AN394‐55 Clevis pins
2 MS24665‐132 Cotter pins
2 MS24665‐28 Cotter pins
16 AN960‐10 Washers
2 AN960‐10L Washers
4 AN365‐1032A Locknuts
2 AN310‐3 Castle nuts
1 06‐15900 Rudder Arm with 3/4” post
1 2151 Tension spring kit
SKYLIGHT & SIDE GLASS 1.5 sheet 03‐504‐10 4 x 8 Clear lexan
1 sheet 03‐504‐08 4 x 4 Clear lexan
MAIN WHEELS & BRAKES 8 AN5‐6A Bolts
8 AN960‐516 Washers
8 AN960‐516L Washers
8 AN365‐524A Locknuts
2 MS24665‐379 Cotter pin
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