british columbia & the canadian rockies...
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328
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
AAboriginal people 296-300
art 298culture 13, 13history 280, 284, 296
accommodations 312-13, 314, see also individual locations
activities 18, 20-2, 28, 33-8, see also individual activities
air travel 320, 321, 322Alaska Highway 248, 250-1,
260-4Alberta 39, 42-109, 278, 43
accommodations 42climate 42, 44food 42highlights 43history 44itineraries 45travel seasons 42travel to/from 44-5
amusement parks 68animals 287-91, see also
individual speciesarea codes 17, 318art galleries, see museums
& galleriesarts 18, 292-5, see also
literatureATMs 316avalanches 224
BBanff National Park 11, 72-
100, 74, 11, 27, 30Banff Town 78-88, 80Bar U Ranch 103Bard on the Beach 294Barkerville 239bears 241, 287, 288, 291,
2, 12
Beaver Creek 264beer 18, 111, 308-9, see also
breweriesBella Coola Valley 240-1bicycling, see cycling,
mountain bikingBig White Ski Resort 221bighorn sheep 290, 30birds 290Blackfoot Crossing
Historical Park 106Blackfoot people 106boat travel 17, 321, 322-3books 278, 293-4border crossings 319Bowen Island 151Bowron Lake Provincial Park
238, 30Brandywine Falls Provincial
Park 155breweries
Canmore 75-6Granville Island
Brewing 125Jasper Brewing Co 99Longwood Brewpub 184Saltspring Island
Ales 199Tofino Brewing Company
189Vancouver 140Yaletown Brewing
Company 141Yellowhead Brewery 54
British Columbia 40, 110-251, 278, 112-13
accommodations 110climate 110food 110, 111, 213highlights 112-13internet resources 111tours 310travel seasons 110travel to/from 111
budget 17Burnaby 150-1Burwash Landing 264
bus travel 17, 320-1, 323business hours 17, 317
CCalgary 59-72, 60-1
accommodations 64-7drinking & nightlife 69-70entertainment 70-1festivals & events 64food 67-9history 59shopping 71sights 61-3tours 64travel to/from 72travel within 72
Calgary Stampede 12, 21, 279, 12
Campbell River 195Canmore 74-6canoeing and kayaking 28,
35-6, 254Banff Town 82Broken Group Islands
Unit 188Yukon River 10, 10Yukon Territory 257-8,
268-9Cape Scott Provincial
Park 198car travel 17, 32, 323-5Carcross 268Cariboo 238-41caribou 289Carmacks 268Carmanah Walbran
Provincial Park 181Cathedral Provincial Park
211cell phones 16, 318Chilcotin 238-41children, travel with
amusement parks 68Calgary 68Edmonton 55food 305Vancouver 123
Chilkoot Trail 267-8cideries 181cinema, see filmclimate 16, 20-2climate change 267, 320coffee 310Comox Valley 194-5Cook, Captain James 281cooking courses 305-6Coombs 185-6courses
cooking 305-6wine 310
Cowichan Valley 180-2coyotes 291Cranbrook 233credit cards 316Crowsnest Pass 108culture 18, 278-9currency 16customs regulations 313-14cycling 33-4, 322, see also
mountain bikingBanff Town 82Calgary 65Icefields Parkway 77Kettle Valley Rail Trail 221Legacy Trail 82Swartz Bay 178Vancouver 128Yukon Territory 258
Ddance 294Dawson City 14, 269-75,
270, 14deer 289, 291Dempster Highway 275-6Denman Island 193Destruction Bay 264Dinosaur Provincial Park 102Dinosaur Trail 100-1dinosaurs 13, 100, 101,
102, 13disabilities, travelers with
318-19
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
329IN
DEX D- M
diseases 315distilleries 162, 181diving 35, 290dogsledding 254drinking & nightlife 310,
see also individual locations
drinks 307-10, see also beer, breweries, cideries, tea, wine
driver’s licenses 324driving, see car travelDrumheller 13, 100-2, 13
EEC Manning Provincial
Park 204-5economy 278-9Edmonton 45-58, 46, 48-9
accommodations 50-2activities 47drinking & nightlife 54-5entertainment 55-6food 52-4history 46shopping 56-7sights 47-50tours 50travel to/from 57travel within 57
Edmonton Fringe Theatre Festival 22
Edmonton International Fringe Festival 56
eels 290electricity 314elk 289, 8, 27Elk Island National Park 58emergencies 17events, see festivals &
eventsexchange rates 17
FFernie 231-3ferry travel, see boat travelfestivals & events 20-2
arts 129beer 129, 309carnivals 50, 64, 129children’s 64, 129cultural 129, 130, 273film 84, 129, 159food 129, 159, 203,
214, 304gay & lesbian 129, 159jazz 129, 214literary 84, 130music 64, 129, 154,
214, 273
rodeos 50, 64sports 159theater 50, 129wildlife 265wine 129, 159, 304, 309
film 278, 294-5fishing 35floods 279food 18, 301-6, 314, 315,
see also individual locations
football 38Fort Langley 151-2Fraser River Canyon 205Fraser Valley 204-7, 205Function Junction 158fur trade 281
GGaliano Island 202-3galleries, see museums &
galleriesGaribaldi Provincial Park
155gay travelers 314giardiasis 315Gibsons 163-4Glacier National Park 228gold 282Golden 228-9Golden Mile 308Goldstream Provincial
Park 177Great Bear Rainforest 241Gwaii Haanas National
Park Reserve 244-5
HHaida Gwaii 13, 244-7,
299-300, 13Haida people 245Haines 265-6Haines Highway 264-6Haines Junction 262-3Head-Smashed-In Buffalo
Jump 102-3, 297-8health 314-15hiking 28, 31, 33, 34
Banff National Park 82-3Chilkoot Trail (Yukon)
267-8Goldstream Provincial
Park 177Jasper National Park 95Juan de Fuca Provincial
Park 179Kluane National Park &
Reserve 263-4Lake Louise 90
Legacy Trail 82Revelstoke 228Sunshine Coast Trail 165West Coast Trail 188Whistler 158-9Yukon Territory 267-8
history 18, 28, 280-6hitchhiking 325hockey 38holidays 317-18Hornby Island 193horseback riding 37-8,
83, 95Hyder (Alaska) 251
Iice skating 96ice wine 308Icefields Parkway 12,
76-8, 12immigration 320insects 32Inside Passage 11, 322, 11insurance
car 323health 314travel 315
internet access 315-16internet resources 111itineraries 23-6, 23, 24,
25, 26
JJasper National Park 9,
72-100, 92, 8-9Jasper Town 92-100, 94Johnson, Pauline 298Johnson’s Crossing 262Jory, Victor 295Juan de Fuca Marine
Trail 179Juan de Fuca Provincial
Park 179
KKamloops 205-7Kananaskis 73-4kayaking, see canoeing &
kayakingKelowna 216-21, 218Kermode bear 241Kettle Valley Rail Trail 221Kimberley 233kiteboarding 37Klondike gold rush 269Klondike Highway 266-9Kluane National Park &
Reserve 14, 263-4, 15
Kootenay National Park 231, 29
Kootenays 223-38, 226-7
LLake District 109Lake Louise 88-92, 89language 16Legacy Trail 82legal matters 316lesbian travelers 314Lethbridge 103-5literature 278, 293-4live music, see musicLyme disease 315
MMackenzie, Alexander 281Mackenzie Highway 109maps 316markets
Coombs 185Edmonton 57Kelowna 219Nelson 236North Pender Island 202Richmond 152Salt Spring Island 199Vancouver 122, 123-4,
138, 148Victoria 176Whistler 156
Mayne Island 10, 204, 10medical services 315Minto 268mobile phones 16, 318money 16, 314, 316-17moose 289, 290motorcycle travel 323-5mountain biking 33-4
Canmore 75Fernie 232Jasper 95Penticton 213-14Quadra Island 196Whistler 158
Mt Assiniboine Provincial Park 230
Mt Revelstoke National Park 227-8
museums & galleries 18, 280, 292
Alberta Railway Museum 48
Art Gallery of Alberta 47, 19
Art Gallery of Calgary 63Art Gallery of Greater
Victoria 168-9
330
INDEX M
- T
Banff Park Museum 81Beatty Biodiversity
Museum 126Glenbow Museum 61Emily Carr House 169Hot Art Wet City 123HR Macmillan Space
Centre 128Military Museums 63Museum of Vancouver
125Robert Bateman Centre
167Royal Alberta Museum
47Royal BC Museum 167Science World 122-3Ukranian Museum of
Canada 49Vancouver Art
Gallery 117Vancouver Maritime
Museum 125Whyte Museum of the
Canadian Rockies 79music 295
NNanaimo 182-5, 183national & regional parks
27-32Banff National Park 11,
72-100, 74, 11, 27Bowron Lake Provincial
Park 238, 30Brandywine Falls
Provincial Park 155Cape Scott Provincial
Park 198Carmanah Walbran
Provincial Park 181Cathedral Provincial
Park 211Dinosaur Provincial
Park 102EC Manning Provincial
Park 204-5Elk Island National
Park 58Garibaldi Provincial
Park 155Glacier National Park
228Goldstream Provincial
Park 177Gwaii Haanas National
Park Reserve 244-5
Jasper National Park 9, 72-100, 92, 9
Juan de Fuca Provincial Park 179
Kluane National Park & Reserve 14, 263-4, 15
Kootenay National Park 231, 29
Mt Assiniboine Provincial Park 230
Mt Revelstoke National Park 227-8
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve 187-8
Strathcona Provincial Park 195-6
Tombstone Territorial Park 276
Waterton Lakes National Park 105-8
Wells Gray Provincial Park 239
Wood Buffalo National Park 109
Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park 105
Yoho National Park 229-30, 29
Nelson 234-7New Westminster 151North Pacific Cannery 243North Pender Island 201-2North Vancouver 147-9North Vancouver Island
196-8
Ooctopuses 290Okanagan Valley 207-23,
307, 209, 19Oliver 212Olympic games 278, 285-6opening hours 17, 317Osoyoos 208-11
PPacific Rim National Park
Reserve 187-8painting 292Parksville 185-6passports 320Peace River 108-9Pemberton 162Penticton 212-16phone cards 318planning
British Columbia basics 16-17
budgeting 17calendar of events 20-2
climate 16, 20-2internet resources 17itineraries 23-6regions 39-40travel seasons 16, 20-2
population 279Port Alberni 186-7postal services 317Powell River 165Prince George 248-50Prince Rupert 241-4public holidays 317-18
QQuadra Island 196Qualicum Beach 185-6Queen Charlotte Islands,
see Haida Gwaii
RRadium Hot Springs 231rafting
Banff Town 83Fraser River Canyon 205Jasper 96
religion 279Revelstoke 224-7Richmond 152-3road rules 324Roberts Creek 164rock climbing 28, 34-5
Canmore 75Penticton 214
Rocky Mountains 12, 223-38, 226-7
Rossland 234
Ssafe travel 32, 324salmon 290, 291Salmon Glacier 251Salt Spring Island 199-201Saturna Island 203-4scenic drives
Dinosaur Trail 100-1Highway 1 206Jasper Town to Maligne
Lake 93Okanagan Lake 214Robert Campbell
Highway 262Yukon Territory 262
seafood 301Sechelt 164-5Service, Robert 255Siksika people 106, 281Skagway (Alaska) 266-7skiing & snowboarding 28,
35, 36
Banff Town 83Canmore 75Jasper 96Big White Ski Resort 221Lake Louise 90Penticton 214Revelstoke 224-7Whistler 10, 157, 10
Smithers 247snowboarding, see skiing &
snowboardingsoccer 38sourtoe 274South Pender Island
201-2Southern Gulf Islands 10,
199-204, 200, 10Southern Vancouver Island
177-80sports 38spruce beetles 265Squamish 153-5Stanley Park 9, 117, 120, 9Steveston 152-3Stewart 251Stewart Crossing 268-9Stewart-Cassiar Highway
248, 250storm-watching 189Strathcona Provincial Park
195-6surfing 37
Ttaxes 316-17tea 180, 310Telegraph Cove 198telephone services 16, 318Teslin 262theater 294Thompson Valley 204-7,
205time 16, 234, 318tipping 317Tofino 189-91Tombstone Territorial
Park 276totem poles 247, 285, 13tourist information 318tours 325, see also
individual locationsAboriginal cultural 300beer 310food 305national parks 32wine 310
train travel 17, 321, 325transcontinental railway
282-3
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
331IN
DEX T- Ztravel to/from British
Columbia & the Canadian Rockies 320-1
travel within British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies 17
traveler’s checks 317TV 294-5
UUcluelet 191-3Unesco World Heritage
sites 28Banff National Park 11,
72-100, 74, 11, 27Dinosaur Provincial
Park 102Gwaii Haanas National
Park Reserve 244Head-Smashed-In
Buffalo Jump 102-3Jasper National Park 9,
72-100, 82, 9Kluane National Park &
Reserve 14, 263-4, 14Kootenay National Park
231, 29Waterton Lakes National
Park 105-8Wood Buffalo National
Park 109Yoho National Park
229-30
Vvacations 317-18Vancouver 114-47, 115,
118-19accommodations 130-3activities 127-8
children, travel with 123drinking & nightlife
139-41entertainment 141-3festivals & events 129-30food 13, 133-9, 13gay & lesbian
travelers 141history 114, 127itineraries 116shopping 143-5sights 114-27tourist information 145tours 128-9travel to/from 145-6travel within 146-7
Vancouver International Film Festival 22
Vancouver International Jazz Festival 21
Vancouver Island 14, 166-98, 166-7, 15
Vancouver, Captain George 281
vegetarian travelers 304Vernon 221-3Victoria 167-77, 168, 170
accommodations 172-3activities 169drinking & nightlife 174-5festivals & events 171-2food 173-4entertainment 175shopping 175-6sights 167-9tours 171travel to/from 176-7travel within 177
visas 16, 319
Wwalking, see hikingWaterton Lakes National
Park 105-8Watson Lake 261-2weather 16, 20-2, see also
individual regionswebsites, see internet
resourcesWells Gray Provincial
Park 239West Coast Trail 188West Nile virus 315West Vancouver 149-50whale watching 169-71, 288Whistler 10, 155-63, 156,
5, 10Whitehorse 255-60, 256
accommodations 258-9activities 257-8drinking 259food 259shopping 259sights 255-7tours 258travel to/from 260travel within 260
white-water rafting, see rafting
wildlife, see animals, birds, wildlife watching
wildlife watching 19, 28, 111, 287-91
Williams Lake 239windsurfing 37wine 18, 299, 307-8, 310wine regions
Southern Gulf Islands 199, 203
Okanagan Valley 210-11, 209, 19
Vancouver Island 181wolves 288-9women travelers 319Wood Buffalo National
Park 109work 319Writing-on-Stone
Provincial Park 105
YYoho National Park 229-
30, 29Yukon Quest 20Yukon River 10, 10Yukon Territory 40, 252-76,
279, 253accommodations 252climate 252culture 254food 252highlights 253history 254tourist information 255travel seasons 252travel to/from 255
Zzoos
BC Wildlife Park 206Calgary Zoo 61-2Valley Zoo 55Victoria Bug Zoo 169
326326
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK Things change – prices go up, schedules change, good places go bad and bad places go bankrupt. So if you find things better or worse, recently opened or long since closed, or you just want to tell us what you loved or loathed about this book, please get in touch and help make the next edition even more accurate and useful. We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and our well-traveled team reads every word. Although we can’t reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Caroline Helbig, Catherine Heintz, Geneviève Wilshire, John Hoffmann, Lieke Sauer and Sandra Theimer, Stevens Quilliou, Ted Brooks, Yinna Harold
AUTHOR THANKS
John LeeJohn would like to thank the too-numerous-to-mention visitor center staff as well as the hundreds of locals he met en route for their friendly tips and advice for places to check out. He’d also especially like to thank his father – William Lee – for first bringing him to Vancou-ver for a visit from the UK during the Expo ’86 world exposition all those years ago.
Brendan SainsburyThanks to all the bus drivers, tourist info vol-unteers, Parks Canada guides, restaurateurs, coffee baristas, theatrical performers and indie punk rockers who helped me during my research. Special thanks to my wife Liz and seven-year-old son Kieran for their company on the road, and to my sis-in-law Tina Varughese for putting me up in Calgary.
Ryan Ver BerkmoesThe number of folks to thank outnumber Ker-mode bears, but here’s a few: Russ Lester, my fearless co-pilot, the opinionated Susan Clarke, the organized Karla Zimmerman and the pinch-hitting Korina Miller. It’s always good to share BC with John Lee. At LP, I am deeply indebted to the indefatigable Mark Griffiths, Martine Power and Saralinda Turner, who showed in-credible understanding when I needed it. And while there may not be golden bears, there is the golden Alexis Averbuck, who discovered and shared my love for this beautiful part of the world.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.
Transit map: Vancouver TransLink Map © TransLink 2013.
Cover photograph: Banff National Park, Alberta, Stefan Damm/4Corners
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
327BEH
IND TH
E SCENES
THIS BOOKThis 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies guidebook was researched and written by John Lee, Ryan Ver Berkmoes and Brendan Sainsbury. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland
office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editors Jennye Garibaldi, Korina MillerCoordinating Editor Alison RidgwaySenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Lauren Egan
Managing Editors Martine Power, Angela Tinson Assisting Editors Paul HardingCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Indra Kilfoyle, Chad Parkhill, Trent Paton, Tracy Whitmey
335335
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
Airport
Border crossingBART station
BusBoston T station
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/Muni station
Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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