brown sauces: sauce espagnole, demi-glace & jus lié “this is the espagnole sauce, having...

Brown Sauces:Sauce Espagnole, Demi-Glace & Jus Lié

“This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached

the limit of perfection...”-

Escoffier, (referring to demi-

glace)

Sauce Espagnole Generally not used directly but refined into a

demi-glace or other sauce Developed from a French brown sauce by

adding Spanish tomatoes…the early 1600’s Brown Sauce, made by reducing brown stock

with a dark roux and tomato product Tomatoes are optional but do deepen the

stock’s color

Making Sauce Espagnole Make a 1# of Brown Roux Caramelize 2# Mirepoix or Pinçage (Roasted

or Sautéed Mirepoix) Roast the ½# Tomato Product Add the Roux, Mirepoix, Tomato & Bouquet

Garni to 5-Qts. Veal/Beef Stock in a Stockpot and Simmer 1-2 hrs

Skim Frequently Reduce to Sauce Consistency Strain

Mirepoix vs. Pinçage

Mirepoix Pinçage

2x Onion, 1x Carrot & 1x Celery

Sweetness from onion and carrot

Herbaceous notes from celery

Light and vegetal Luke

Mirepoix plus… Tomato product Caramelized by

roasting or sauté More assertive

flavors Used in brown

sauces and stocks Vader

Demi-Glace 50% Sauce Espagnole + 50% Brown Stock, Reduced

by 50% May be used as a finishing sauce or (more commonly)

as a base for other sauces Alternate Liaisons

Arrowroot Cornstarch Potato Starch

A “natural” demi-glace or glace de viande is thickened by reduction only (no roux) Natural Demi-Glace reduced by 80% Glace de Viande reduced 90-95%

Reduction vs. Thickening with a Liaison Reduction is usually preferred for taste and

consistency Reduction equals a lower yield thus higher

cost A roux or other liaison increases yield Liaisons may adversely affect flavor, texture

or add additional calories and fat.

Sauce Consistency

Thin ConsistencySauce or Nappé Consistency

Notice the coating on the

spoon

Making Demi-Glace (Classic) Combine 1 quart of Espagnole with 1 quart

Brown Stock Simmer, Skim and Reduce by 50% -90% Mushroom Stems may be added during

simmering Finish with a splash of Madeira, Port or Sherry

(optional)

Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.1) Roast Veal Breast (Ribs) with Mirepoix Dégraisser, Deglaze and add all to stock pot Cover with cold water Simmer 5-12 hours. Depouillage. Reduce, season and strain

Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.2) Reduce Brown (Veal) Stock by ¾ or sauce

consistency Requires a stock with abundant gelatin

aka., Glace de Veau, Glace de Viande

Jus Lié, Fond Lié or Jus de Veau Lié Alternative to a Demi-Glace…lighter and easier Commonly Used in Restaurants as “Demi” Brown Stock Reduced with a Pinçage (Caramelized

Mirepoix and Tomato Product) Sometimes thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot Or, thickened by reduction only…requires an abundance of

gelatin

“What’s Gravy?” Starch-thickened and de-fatted natural juice from a

roast…aka, “jus lié” In England, just a jus, not thickened In New England, a thick tomato sauce as in

“Sunday Gravy” Some Types:

“Red-Eye” gravy, made from ham drippings and deglazed with coffee (Southern)

“Sawmill” gravy, a white gravy…essentially a béchamel seasoned by the meat in the frying process…as in chicken-fried steak or a sausage gravy (Southern)

Onion Gravy Giblet Gravy, …the only reason to eat turkey!

Sauce Tomate:Tomato Concassée & Tomato Coulis French Tomato Sauces are usually a secondary

component Classic Italian or Spanish Tomato Sauce are base sauces

flavored around a mirepoix or soffrito Tomato Concassée

Concasser: “to crush, break, or grind” Peeled and Seeded and Chopped Raw or Barely Cooked

Best for In-Season-Ripe Tomatoes

Cooked Slowly simmered for 5-10 minutes THEN…strain to remove excess liquid (As

opposed to cooking all the down and destroying texture and delicacy.)

Tomato Coulis Smooth purée strained of seeds and peel Raw or Cooked

Tomato Sauces

French Italian

Classically thickened with a roux

Uses a white stock, veal or chicken

Uses pork bones or other pork products

No Roux Simmered with few

ingredients Oregano & Basil are

commonly added

Improving the Flavor of Tomato Sauces Use the best, ripest, fresh tomatoes.

Or a good canned tomato…ie, San Marzano Avoid overcooking the tomatoes The better the tomato the less need for other

ingredients Herbs, meats, stock, etc.

Use roasting as a means to concentrate tomato flavor and add caramelization flavors

Balance both sweetness and acidity with sugar and vinegar or add a gastrique Gastrique: caramelized sugar deglazed with

vinegar; used to flavor tomato or savory sauces

Canned Tomato Products Tomato Puree

Briefly cooked tomatoes and strained resulting in a thick liquid

Tomato Sauce Thinner than puree and may have seasonings and

flavorings Tomato Paste (Tomato Concentrate)

Tomatoes that have been cooked several hours, strained and reduced to thick concentrate. Generally fairly sweet.

Whole or Diced Peeled, seeded and whole or diced. Uncooked.

Crushed Unregulated description…may have seeds or peels and

varying percentages of tomato

Canned Tomato Products con’t. Sweetness (ripeness) varies

Salt is added to bring out the sweetness Citric Acid

Preserves and corrects acidity Calcium Chloride

Maintains a firm texture too much equals metallic taste and "rubbery" texture

Color is NOT necessarily a good indicator of tomato taste. Taste is.

Quick Cooking vs. Slow Cooking Tomato Sauces

Marinara* Ragu

Quick (20 Minutes) Fresh Tomato Taste Lacks Complexity

Long Cooking (Hours) Complex Flavors Usually Includes

Meat and a Soffritto*Originally, a slow-

simmered tomato sauce from Naples. Italian-American Marinara is

generally a quick, fresh tomato sauce or, salsa al

pomodoro

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce

Finely Dice Onion and Émincé Garlic

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce

Puree and Tomatoes through a Food Mill or Passatutto (Removes skin & seeds.)

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce

Sweat Onions and then Garlic

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce

Add the Tomato Paste and Sauté (Turns a shade darker)

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce

Add the Tomato Puree and Season

Making a Basic Tomato Sauce

Simmer 30-45 minutes. Finish with fresh basil and splash of olive oil. Check

seasoning for sugar, salt, acid & pepper.

Next Week’s Midterm: (Discuss) Cauliflower Soup

Each student makes 1 quart using only: cauliflower, WATER, butter, onion, shallot, garlic, thyme,

bay leaf and cream.

Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls and Vegetables Each student makes 1 quart

From week one’s recipes

Clam Chowder Each student makes 1 quart

Use a clam broth to make a clam veloute Ingredients are limited to clams, clam juice, potatoes,

butter, cream. Salt and pepper.

Today’s Lab: Espagnole Classic Demi Glace Demi Glace (Modern) Tomato Sauce, French

Coulis De Tomates À La Provençale (Tomato Sauce with Mediterranean Flavors)

Chicken Provencale (Poulet à la provençale) Miso Soup and Dashi