emerging trend in use of skin care and sun care, a going
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Poster ID
Logo
Emerging Trend In Use Of Skin Care And Sun Care, A Boost To Upgrade In Vitro Strategies For Local Tolerance
Evaluation Of Ingredients
Roso Alicia1, Puginier Mickaël1, Bergal Mathilde1, De Servi Barbara2, Ceriotti Laura2, Meloni Marisa2
1- Seppic, La Garenne Colombes, France; 2- VitroScreen, 20149 Milan, Italy
Introduction:
Materials & Methods:
Results & Discussion:
Conclusions:
References:
The logo or logos of your institution(s)
Formulation trends or new uses are also an opportunity to improve our technical knowledge and upgrade our practices. In recent years, the popularity of aerosol sprays has increased worldwide. Out of traditional use in fragrances, deodorant/antiperspirant, hairspray and spring waters, aerosol format expanded into new categories, especially skin care and sun protection, in parallel with packaging powered by air instead of the typical propellants. This trend raises a new challenge for local tolerance assessment as some ingredients, not present in traditional aerosol compositions, can be occasionally or frequently in contact with the upper airways. The objective of the study was therefore to investigate the tolerance of some key ingredients on a reconstructed upper airway epithelium model. The ultimate goal was to facilitate, at early development stages, the selection and appropriate dosages of ingredients widely used in skin care and sun care applications.
Add the more important results in tables and figures
Show the methodology used to perform the work, it is suggested to use a descriptive diagram
Summarize the finding
1. Maione AG, Jackson GR, Vinall JL, Simpson H, Storey EL, Debatis M, Klausner M, Roper C, Hayden PJ (2018) Comparative inhalation toxicity testing using in vitro organotypic rat and human airway epithelial models. 20th ESTIV Congress, poster 135, Berlin, Germany.
2. Roso A, Puginier M, Bergal M, Nunzi F, Alonso A (2021) In vitro Approach to Assess Local Tolerance of Ingredients Dedicated to Specific Topical Care Applications. J Dermatol & Skin Sci. 3(1):30-48.
3. Denis A, Coudert C, Despax S, Ben Arous J, Bulcourt C, Roso A (2019) Innovative Rheology Modifiers for Mucosal Formulations. Skin and Formulation 5th Symposium Reims, France.
Poster ID
Logo
Emerging Trend In Use Of Skin Care And Sun Care, A Boost To Upgrade In Vitro Strategies For Local Tolerance
Evaluation Of Ingredients
Roso Alicia1, Puginier Mickaël1, Bergal Mathilde1, De Servi Barbara2, Ceriotti Laura2, Meloni Marisa2
1- Seppic, La Garenne Colombes, France; 2- VitroScreen, 20149 Milan, Italy
Introduction:
Materials & Methods:
Results & Discussion:
Conclusions:
References:
The logo or logos of your institution(s)
Formulation trends or new uses are also an opportunity to improve our technical knowledge and upgrade our practices. In recent years, the popularity of aerosol sprays has increased worldwide. Out of traditional use in fragrances, deodorant/antiperspirant, hairspray and spring waters, aerosol format expanded into new categories, especially skin care and sun protection, in parallel with packaging powered by air instead of the typical propellants. This trend raises a new challenge for local tolerance assessment as some ingredients, not present in traditional aerosol compositions, can be occasionally or frequently in contact with the upper airways. The objective of the study was therefore to investigate the tolerance of some key ingredients on a reconstructed upper airway epithelium model. The ultimate goal was to facilitate, at early development stages, the selection and appropriate dosages of ingredients widely used in skin care and sun care applications.
Add the more important results in tables and figures
Show the methodology used to perform the work, it is suggested to use a descriptive diagram
Summarize the finding
1. Maione AG, Jackson GR, Vinall JL, Simpson H, Storey EL, Debatis M, Klausner M, Roper C, Hayden PJ (2018) Comparative inhalation toxicity testing using in vitro organotypic rat and human airway epithelial models. 20th ESTIV Congress, poster 135, Berlin, Germany.
2. Roso A, Puginier M, Bergal M, Nunzi F, Alonso A (2021) In vitro Approach to Assess Local Tolerance of Ingredients Dedicated to Specific Topical Care Applications. J Dermatol & Skin Sci. 3(1):30-48.
3. Denis A, Coudert C, Despax S, Ben Arous J, Bulcourt C, Roso A (2019) Innovative Rheology Modifiers for Mucosal Formulations. Skin and Formulation 5th Symposium Reims, France.
SC_152
Esterification
Leucine involved in skin pigmentation
Leucine—
Biosourced Aminovector™
Cutaneous bio-affinity
Isosorbide—
Derived from starch
Stability & efficacy
ELAIsosorbityl Octanoyl Leucine
—Biosourced Esters of
Capryloyl/Capryloyl Leucine Isosorbide Untreated control
IBMX(a) 0.02%
ELA 0.005%
EtOH 0.5%
µg m
elan
in /
µg p
rote
in
******
+47%
▌Evaluation on normal human Caucasian melanocytes
***p<0.001(a) 3-Isobutyl-1-methylxanthine
ELA significantly
boosts melanin synthesis
in both models
▌Melanosomes transfer by immunofluorescence
▌Melanosomes transfer by flow cytometry
Untreated condition α-MSH(b) 0.0002% ELA 0.005%
Quantity of keratinocytes with integrated melanosomes
+33.9% +33.7%Q1 gate: keratinocytes (cytokeratin staining) Q2 gate: keratinocytes with integrated melanosome (cytokeratin and PMEL17 staining)Q3 gate: non-staining cells Q4 gate: melanocytes (PMEL17 staining)
ELAsignificantly stimulates melanosome transfer
quality & quantity from melanocytes to
keratinocytes
Untreated Untreated
Tan boosting (Products + UV)
Long lasting effect(No product, no UV)
ELA Acetyl Tyrosine Untreated
ITA
varia
tion
vs D
0 (%
)
+15%*+6%*
* p<0.05 vs untreated* p<0.05, ** p<0.01 vs acetyl tyrosine* p<0.05 vs D0
ELA significantly
decreases ITA & boosts the tan-up vs untreated area & acetyl tyrosine from
day 4 to day 11
ELAsignificantly provides a
long-lasting tan (up to 15 days
after use)
Key points• Natural bio-inspired
AMINOVECTOR™• Boosts melanin
synthesis & transfer• Tan booster and extender
member of
zoom
ELAsignificantly boosts the expression of genes involved in
melanogenesis [3-14]
**
KERATINOCYTES
MELANOCYTES
STAGE I
STAGE II
STAGE III
STAGE IV
TYR TYROSINASETYRP1TYRP2PMEL17
ACTIN
Dendrite & Lamelipodes formation
MYO5A
RAC1
melanosome integration
by keratinoyctes
KNT1
microtubule movement
microtubule movement
MAPKUSF1 MITFPh Ph
KEYS MELANOGENIC ENZYMES
STX6
AIM1
AP1
PMEL17
C-KIT FGFR2
SCF
bFGFELA 0.005%F2RL1
MELANOSOME MATURATIONAND MELANIN SYNTHESIS
SYNTHESIS AND TRANSPORTOF MELANOGENIC ENZYMES
MELANOSOMES TRANSFER
(b) α-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone
(a) 3-Isobutyl-1-methylxanthine
Going Further in Skin Tanning, a New Solution with Normal Daily Exposure
Chanut, Pauline1* ; Hernandez, Elsa1 ; Kern, Catherine1 ; Garcia, Christine1 1Seppic Research & Innovation, 50 boulevard National, 92257 La Garenne Colombes Cedex, France
*pauline.chanut@airliquide.com +33(0)563728634
Introduction
BIOLOGICAL EVALUATION
Human skin pigmentation is a complex biological process responsible for the color and tanning of the skin. It is triggered by a signaling cascade leading to melanin synthesis by melanosomes in melanocytes, followed up by their transfer to surrounding keratinocytes [1, 2].
Our aim was to investigate the effect of a newly-developed esterified lipoaminoacid ELA on skin tanning.
Materials & Methods
Results & Discussions
ConclusionReferences: 1. Plonka et al.. (2009) What are melanocytes really doing all day long…?. Exp. Dermatol ., 18(9): 799-819.2. Cichorek et al.. (2013) Skin melanocytes: biology and development. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology/Postȩpy Dermatologii I Alergologii, 30(1): 30.3. Park et al. (2009) Cellular mechanisms regulating human melanogenesis. Cell Mol Life Sci 66(9): 1493-1506.4. Berson et al.. Pmel17 initiates premelanosome morphogenesis within multivesicular bodies. Mol Biol Cell. 2001, 12(11): 3451-645. Sommer L. Generation of melanocytes from neural crest cells (2011) Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 24(3): 411-21.6. Theos et al.. Functions of adaptor protein (2005) (AP)-3 and AP-1 in tyrosinase sorting from endosomes to melanosomes. Mol Biol Cell. 16(11): 5356-727. D’Mello et al. (2016) Signaling pathways in melanogenesis. Int J Mol Sci. 17(7): e1144.8. Jung et al.. (2011) Depigmenting action of platycodin D depends on the cAMP/Rho‐dependent signalling pathway. Exp Dermatol. 20(12): 986-91.9. Kim et al.. (2010) MKK6 increases the melanocyte dendricity through the regulation of Rho family GTPases. J Dermatol Sci. 60(2): 114-9.10. Scott GA, Cassidy L. (1998) Rac1 mediates dendrite formation in response to melanocyte stimulating hormone and ultraviolet light in a murine melanoma model.
J Invest Dermatol. 111(2): 243-50. 11. Strom et al.. (2002) A family of Rab27-binding proteins. Melanophilin links Rab27a and myosin Va function in melanosome transport. J Biol Chem. 277(28):
25423-30.12. Westbroek et al.. (2003) Interactions of human Myosin Va isoforms, endogenously expressed in human melanocytes, are tightly regulated by the tail domain. J
Invest Dermatol. 120(3): 465-75. 13. Toyoshima et al.. (1992) Kinectin, a major kinesin-binding protein on ER. J Cell Biol. 118(5): 1121-31. 14. Seiberg et al.. (2000) The protease-activated receptor 2 regulates pigmentation via keratinocyte-melanocyte interactions. Exp Cell Res. 254(1): 25-32.
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CLINICAL EVALUATION
• 20 Caucasian women (20-37 years old) – phototype III • Formula with 1% ELA, 1% acetyl tyrosine (Benchmark) or untreated • Application on thighs, twice a day during 11 days + 6 UV-A exposures (mean 16.6 J/cm²) during the study + 14 days without product nor UV • Measures: Pictures + measure of L* and b* values to calculate ITA (Individual Typology Angle: a pigmenting effect results in the decrease in ITA)
BIOLOGICAL EVALUATION
CLINICAL EVALUATION
D0 D2 D4 D7 D9 D11 D12 D18 D25
BIOLOGICAL ACTION
MELANOCYTE
KERATINOCYTE
MELANOSOME
ELA
1. Stimulation of Melanin synthesis
2. Stimulation of Melanosome transfer
CLINICAL BENEFITS
The bio-inspired esterified lipoaminoacid ELA can be considered as a key active ingredient acting biologically to boost and prolongate skin tanning while limiting sun exposure.
ELA 0.005% (w/w)or positive reference
Human melanocytes
Melanin extraction Measurement at 405 nm
8 daysTopical applicationELA 1% (w/w) or placebo
RNA extraction +TaqMan array
30 h
Melanized RHEphototype III-IV
ELA 0.005% (w/w)or positive reference
Human keratinocytes & melanocytes co-cultivation
Flow cytometry amount of keratinocytes integrating melanosomes
Immunofluorescenceamount of transferred melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes
2 days PMEL17& Cytokeratin co-staining
Formula with 1% ELA+ 1% acetyl tyrosine + untreated
6 UV exposureMinimum Pigmentation Dose of UVA
> to standardize UV exposure
PHENOTYPIC ANALYSIS
GENE ANALYSIS
PHENOTYPIC ANALYSIS GENE ANALYSIS
+90%** of transferred melanosomes with ELA 0.005%
**p<0.01
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