emotional durability
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EMOTIONAL DURABILITY STRATEGIES AND FUTURE INTEGRATION –
A CASE STUDY
Thesis Number: 2021.7.05
Thesis for Two year Master, 30 ECTS
Textile Management
Michelle Bjerregaard Jensen
I
Title: Emotional Durability– Strategies and Future Integration – A Case Study
Publication year: 2021
Author: Michelle Bjerregaard Jensen
Supervisor: Rudrajeet Pal
Acknowledgement
Firstly, I would like to express my deepest gratitude to the interviewees, who allocated precious
time and effort to contribute to the realisation of this thesis. Their insights and perspective
regarding the topic of emotional durability added valuable depth to my research and challenged
my perception of the topic. Secondly, I would like to thank my supervisor, Rudrajeet Pal, who
guided me and shared knowledge to improve my thesis and make it the best possible version. I
would also like to express my sincere appreciation to my seminar-group who provided me with
continuous feedback throughout the process, being able to share ideas and follow the process
of your thesis gave me valuable insights to better my own research.
Thank you, Emilio! who stood by me throughout with encouraging words and a continuous
effort in keeping my spirits high through what sometimes felt like a very uphill battle.
And last but definitely not least, I am beyond thankful for my family of friends who rooted on
me from afar. You encouraged me to keep going even in difficult times.
I sincerely hope that this thesis can spark further discussion and interest in the topic of emotional
durability.
II
Abstract
Background – Design for longevity stand in strong contrast to the dominant model of fast fashion, where
mass-production, low prices and poor quality is the characteristics. The fast-paced model is linked to
environmental degradation and there is a need for a systemic change in the system. Design for longevity has
been identified as one of the most effective means to reduce environmental impacts, however there are
significant gaps in knowledge in relation to garment longevity and its integration within fashion brands. As
the active lifetimes of garments are decreasing, resulting in a truck full of textiles and clothing reaching
landfill evert second (EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017). This shows that consumers have fleeting
relationships with their garment and product attachment has decreased, which shows that there is a need for
strategies that facilitate product attachment to help facilitate more circularity within textiles and clothing.
Emotional durability has been highlighted as an approach to design for longevity, it’s a new research area
that tries to understand the complex interchange between consumption, the meaning of products and
relationships between people and products. Emotional durability focuses on ways to prolong the use of
products to extend the lifetimes and thereby decreasing the need for early garment replacement.
Purpose – This study focuses on understanding the phenomenon of emotional durability and its integration
possibilities in textiles and clothing companies. The purpose for this thesis is to expand on current knowledge
on emotional durability from a brand perspective, through highlighting the challenges and enablers for
emotional durability. Using design thinking to understand it’s integration potential, through collaboration
and iterative feedback loops to push innovation and build resilience into product-user relationships.
Methodology – The research was conducted using a single case study with an abductive approach. The
research builds on the theoretical perspective of IDEO (nd) design thinking theory. Semi-structured
interviews with a Swedish fashion and lifestyle company, including employees within the design,
sustainability, quality and communications departments provided the basis for collecting primary data. The
primary data was supplemented with secondary data which included website articles, sustainability reports
and internal documents. The data was analysed qualitatively through thematic content analysis which was
triangulated.
Findings – The results of the study, shows that emotional durability can be enabled through a range of
strategies including personalisation, transparency, graceful ageing, functionality. These strategies can be
supported by services provided by brands, where communicative education plays a supporting role in helping
build relationship which can ensure better product retention. The results further highlighted that using design
thinking theory can help overcome some of the challenges that was found within emotional durability.
Through continuous collaboration both across departments, but also with stakeholders and competitors a
knowledge sharing platform can be built, which can ensure better opportunities within emotional durability
and thereby designing for longevity.
Practical implications and research limitations - This research contributes to creating new insight
into a relatively unexplored area, emotional durability from a brand perspective and the integration through
the use of strategies and services. Thus, aiding brands to gain more understanding in the integration and
thereby providing solutions that can facilitate longevity. The study is limited by the choice of case-company,
which is a Swedish Fashion and lifestyle company.
Keywords: Emotional durability, Longevity, Product Attachment, Design Thinking, Sustainability
III
Table of Contents
List of Figures ................................................................................................................ - 1 -
List of Tables ................................................................................................................. - 1 -
List of Abbreviations ..................................................................................................... - 1 -
1 Introduction .......................................................................................................... - 2 -
1.1 Background .............................................................................................................. - 2 -
1.2 Problem Discussion .................................................................................................. - 3 -
1.3 Research Gap ........................................................................................................... - 4 -
1.4 Research Purpose & Questions ................................................................................. - 5 -
1.5 Delimitations ........................................................................................................... - 6 -
1.6 Thesis Structure ....................................................................................................... - 7 -
2 Literature Review .................................................................................................. - 9 -
2.1 Design for Longevity ................................................................................................. - 9 -
2.2 Emotional durability ................................................................................................ - 10 -
2.3 Person-Product Relationship.................................................................................... - 12 -
2.4 Frameworks for emotional durability ....................................................................... - 14 - 2.4.1 Six-point framework ................................................................................................................... - 14 - 2.4.2 Emotional durability Design Nine ............................................................................................... - 15 -
2.5 Strategies for Emotional Durability .......................................................................... - 16 - 2.5.1 Dependability & Physical durability ............................................................................................ - 16 - 2.5.2 Customisation & Personalisation & Co-Creation........................................................................ - 16 - 2.5.3 Flexible & Modular Design.......................................................................................................... - 17 - 2.5.4 Gracefully ageing ........................................................................................................................ - 18 - 2.5.5 Maintenance & Repair ................................................................................................................ - 19 - 2.5.6 Transparency & Traceability ....................................................................................................... - 20 -
2.6 Summary ................................................................................................................ - 21 -
3 Theoretical Framework ........................................................................................ - 22 -
3.1 Motivation for the use of Design Thinking ................................................................ - 22 -
3.2 Design Thinking ....................................................................................................... - 22 -
3.3 Design Thinking theory in the context of Textile & Clothing ...................................... - 26 -
4 Methodology ....................................................................................................... - 27 -
4.1 Research Design ...................................................................................................... - 27 - 4.1.1 Research Strategy – the Case Study ........................................................................................... - 27 -
4.2 Scientific Reasoning ................................................................................................. - 28 -
4.3 Data Collection ........................................................................................................ - 29 - 4.3.1 Sampling method and case selection ......................................................................................... - 29 - 4.3.2 The case-company ...................................................................................................................... - 30 - 4.3.3 Primary Data ............................................................................................................................... - 30 - 4.3.4 Secondary Data ........................................................................................................................... - 32 -
IV
4.4 Data Analysis .......................................................................................................... - 34 -
4.5 Research Quality ..................................................................................................... - 37 - 4.5.1 Construct Validity ....................................................................................................................... - 38 - 4.5.2 Internal Validity .......................................................................................................................... - 38 - 4.5.3 External Validity .......................................................................................................................... - 38 - 4.5.4 Reliability .................................................................................................................................... - 39 - 4.5.5 Ethical Considerations ................................................................................................................ - 39 -
5 Findings ............................................................................................................... - 40 -
5.1 Challenges............................................................................................................... - 40 - 5.1.1 Current Fashion Cycle ................................................................................................................. - 40 - 5.1.2 Consumer Mindset ..................................................................................................................... - 41 - 5.1.3 Individuality ................................................................................................................................ - 42 -
5.2 Enablers .................................................................................................................. - 43 - 5.2.1 Physical durability ....................................................................................................................... - 43 - 5.2.2 Fit ................................................................................................................................................ - 44 - 5.2.3 Communication .......................................................................................................................... - 45 - 5.2.4 Approaches to ED ....................................................................................................................... - 47 -
5.3 Integration .............................................................................................................. - 49 - 5.3.1 Creating a change ....................................................................................................................... - 49 - 5.3.2 Collaboration and co-creation .................................................................................................... - 50 - 5.3.3 Role of the designer .................................................................................................................... - 52 -
5.4 Conceptual Framework for Emotional Durability ...................................................... - 54 -
5.5 Summary of Key Findings ......................................................................................... - 55 -
6 Discussion............................................................................................................ - 57 -
6.1 Challenges for Emotional Durability ......................................................................... - 57 - 6.1.1 Stuck in an stagnate system ....................................................................................................... - 57 - 6.1.2 Consumer Mindset ..................................................................................................................... - 58 - 6.1.3 Individuality ................................................................................................................................ - 59 -
6.2 Enablers for Emotional Durability ............................................................................ - 59 - 6.2.1 Physical durability ....................................................................................................................... - 59 - 6.2.2 Communicative Tools for emotional durability .......................................................................... - 60 - 6.2.3 Core strategies for emotional durability .................................................................................... - 61 -
6.3 Integration of emotional durability .......................................................................... - 62 -
7 Conclusion ........................................................................................................... - 65 -
7.1 Theoretical implication ............................................................................................ - 65 -
7.2 Practical Implications .............................................................................................. - 66 -
7.3 Limitations and Future Research .............................................................................. - 67 -
8 References ........................................................................................................... - 68 -
9 Appendix ............................................................................................................. - 74 -
9.1 Appendix 1 .............................................................................................................. - 74 -
9.2 Appendix 2 – Glossary for sub-themes ..................................................................... - 81 -
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List of Figures
Figure 1 – The Three Levels of Design – Adapted from Norman (2004)............................- 13 - Figure 2 – DT adapted from IDEO (nd) ...............................................................................- 24 - Figure 3 – The five-stage research process model adapted from Stuart et al. (2002) ..........- 28 - Figure 4 – Framework for emotional durability .................................................................- 54 -
List of Tables
Table 1 – Overview of the structure of the thesis...................................................................- 8 - Table 2 – Key Strategies for ED .........................................................................................- 20 - Table 3 – Design Thinking 5-step process and parameters ..................................................- 25 - Table 4 – Overview of Participants and their role within the company .............................- 32 - Table 5 – Overview of Secondary data collected ...............................................................- 33 - Table 6 – Six phases of thematic analysis, adapted from (Nowell et al. 2017) .................- 35 - Table 7 – Coding example for challenges ..........................................................................- 36 - Table 8 – Challenges for ED ................................................................................................- 43 - Table 9 – Enablers for ED ..................................................................................................- 49 - Table 10 – Integration of ED ..............................................................................................- 54 -
List of Abbreviations
DT Design Thinking
ED Emotional Durability
EDD Emotionally Durable Design
KPI Key Performance Indicator
PD Physical Durability
T&C Textile and Clothing
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1 Introduction
In this chapter the background of the thesis will be introduced, and thus give an overview of
the context and its essential attributes, to create clarity and place the reader in the right context.
The chapter will describe the identified problem, as well as the research gap, followed by the
purpose and finally the research questions will be presented, and delimitations will be set for
the study.
1.1 Background
Clothing has provided humans with various functions over time, the primary function includes
shelter, protection and modesty, but secondly aesthetic and social function (Barnard 2002). In
today’s society some these functions have been set aside, to benefit market growth. Thus,
clothing and fashion can be seen as a business leverage, rather than the original functions
discussed by Barnard. In the 19th century there was a substantial change in the history of
production, as industrialisation made mass-production possible and created better availability
for fashion commodities (Chapman 2014; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). This steers away from the
traditional production of garments, which was a highly participatory process for the wearer,
through tailormade and bespoke clothing, whereas the introduction of mass-manufactured
clothing has disengaged the wearer from the creation, and limited the experience to whether to
buy or not to buy the garment (Cramer 2011). Mass production has led to fast fashion becoming
a successful business model from an economic standpoint, which has created significant growth
for companies (Cotton et al. 2020). However, this has led to constant changes and turbulent
environments, where speed to market is driven by fast fashion logistics and increased trend-
variation. This has caused expanding and rapidly changing wardrobes within consumers, who
are constantly presented with newness (Cooper et al. 2013a; Remy et al. 2016). Thereby
resulting in consequences for fashion companies, who are trying to keep up with continuous
growth. It has been found that it’s essential for garments to become obsolete as the current
success factor is based on volumes of sales (Fletcher 2017). Thereby, causing rapid loss in value
of the clothing, which ultimately puts clothing into the category of disposables, which is causing
rapid resource depletion (Fletcher 2015b). The 3.8 billion years old reserve of natural capital,
that the human race was lucky to inherit, has been put under extensive pressure, due to the
extortionate consumption patterns. One third of the planet’s resources have been consumed in
the last four decades and the earth is struggling to regenerate the resources to keep up with
current consumption levels (Chapman 2009).
The textile and clothing (T&C) industry currently functions on a linear model, where take-
make-consume-dispose is the norm (McDonough & Braungart 2002). This translates into
accelerating exhaustion of resources, which is said to no longer be fit for the contemporary
world (Popescu 2018). The prices that the fast fashion system works on, doesn’t reflect the
environmental and social costs. Where fossil fuels are burned to run production plants,
chemicals are flushed into waterways, garment workers getting underpaid, and enormous
amounts of energy is used to produce and process fibres for garments (Allwood et al. 2015). As
the active lifetime of garments is decreasing (Cooper et al. 2013a), 1.6 billion SEK worth of
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garments go to landfill every year. Which is equivalent to a truck full of textiles and clothing
reaching landfill or incineration plants every second (EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017).
According to Global Fashion Agenda (2020) an estimate of 92 millions tons of textile waste is
created each year, which is expected increase to 134 million tons of textile waste by the year
2030. These figures reveal that there has been a profound change in the way people relate to
what they wear; clothes that was once valued and kept in pristine condition to last a lifetime,
has now become objects of low value (Neto & Ferreira 2020). Consumers can fall in love with
a garment, but just rapidly fall out of love with another one, causing a fleeting relationship
between consumer and garment to end. Several scholars point out that the large amounts of
textiles and clothing that end up in landfill, are hardly used or new when discarded (Allwood et
al. 2015; Chapman 2014; Fletcher 2017; Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013; Palm et al. 2015). There
is a urgent need for a radical and systemic change in all the stages related to garment lifetime,
from design to production, to use and disposal (Ravnløkke & Bang 2016). Fashion companies
are struggling to create a lasting change towards sustainability, which demonstrates a need for
innovative approaches and collaboration, as well as strategies, theories and frameworks which
can create a better understanding of the challenges companies face (Earley & Andersen 2014).
Reducing the environmental impact of products overall is vital, however focusing on reducing
impact simply won’t suffice to alleviate the increasing levels of consumption and disposal
(Cooper et al. 2013a; Fletcher & Grose 2012; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). Longer-lasting
materials can be used to promote a strategy to increase resourcefulness and sustainability
(Fletcher 2015a). Longer-lasting materials can be defined as materials which have a certain
resistance to surface abrasion, odour and staining, and further has passed tests for colour
fastness, to ensure the use of appropriate colouration techniques, these tests can help ensure the
durability of materials (Designforlongevity.com 2021). However increased product durability
isn’t the only factor when it comes to longevity of garments, overall durability gains also depend
on changed user behaviour and consumption patterns which currently are influenced by social
and experimental dimensions (Ibid.). As products often are replaced way prior to the stage
where the physical function is compromised. Emotional durability (ED) has become
increasingly important, and has received elevated attention in literature as a way to combat
consumption (Chapman 2015; Cramer 2011; Fletcher 2015a; Haug 2017; van Nes & Cramer
2006)
1.2 Problem Discussion
The disposability that we are seeing with T&C, where immense amounts of clothing end up in
landfills long before they are worn out, can be closely linked to the linear business model
(EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017; Popescu 2018). Circular economy has been introduced as a
means to keep materials in use through regenerative cycles of reuse and recycling
(EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017). Design for longevity has been highlighted as an area of
importance when it comes to creating sustainable solutions within the T&C industry (Connor-
Crabb et al. 2016; Cooper et al. 2013a; Cotton et al. 2020; Cramer 2011; Earley 2017). In a
study done by WRAP (2012) extending garments lifetime has been found to offer the greatest
savings overall in carbon, water and waste footprints when compared with the current best
practices in production and fibre choice, laundry and recycling. Further research by WRAP
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(2015) shows that extending life of garments by an extra nine months of active use, would
reduce footprints by around 20-30% each. However, overconsumption and premature
replacement of durable and functioning products is still happening and has been addressed by
a number of scholars (Chapman 2015; Cooper 1994; van Nes & Cramer 2006). Previous studies
provide a range of complex reasons for premature product replacement in the current
throwaway culture, including planned obsolescence, material degradation, product defects,
problems with size and fit & altering needs and desires (Chapman 2015; Mugge et al. 2009;
Neto & Ferreira 2020; van den Berge et al. 2020; van Nes & Cramer 2005) . There has
previously been an emphasis on the role of product quality and material durability relating to
physical durability (PD), to increase product life (Casais et al. 2015; Mugge 2018; van den
Berge et al. 2020). However, it’s not the only factor impacting when products are replaced
(Chapman 2009; Haug 2017). Many products, especially garments are replaced by their owners
because they fail to keep a sustaining psychological and emotional bond with their users
(Chapman 2014). Optimising the product retention period through strengthening the emotional
bond has been studied in depth by Jonathan Chapman (2015) through emotionally durable
design (EDD) and by Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein (2006) through product attachment.
Designing for longevity bridges both PD and ED, where strategies for PD have been preferred
by companies. The ED aspect entails a more complex and not as straightforward approach and
thus a relatively unexplored research area. Promoting product innovation and efficiency is a
strategy to address environmental problems (Ceschin & Gaziulusoy 2016). This needs to be
pushed further to facilitate better product attachment, which requires collaborative and multi-
disciplinary efforts across stakeholders, where ideas are iterated, tested and implemented
(Baldassarre et al. 2020). Collaborative thinking can be realised through design theory, where
several theories have the potential to advance understanding on how a transition in the T&C
industry may be realised (Baldassarre et al. 2020; Brown 2008). Transforming products,
systems and behaviours is necessary to ensure that longevity can challenge the current system
that is characterised by constant change and newness to provide economic gains (Cooper et al.
2016; Watson et al. 2017). Designing with longevity in mind requires a human-centred
approach to unlock new knowledge and ideas (Designforlongevity.com 2021). Understanding
needs of consumers that will establish connections is necessary for ED. Creative problem
solving which is also referred to as design thinking (DT) has potential to become the new
frontier for designing for a more sustainable T&C industry, through collaboration and iterative
processes challenges can be overcome (Bjögvinsson et al. 2012).
1.3 Research Gap
Several studies have been conducted in the field of longevity with emphasis on ED, to
understand how circularity can be adopted within the T&C Industry (Casais et al. 2015; Haines-
Gadd et al. 2018; Karell & Niinimäki 2020; Mugge et al. 2006; Niinimäki 2011; Niinimäki &
Koskinen 2015). Many of these studies have examined which factors positively affect the
emotional connection between users and durable products using a consumer-centric approach
(Fletcher 2015b; Mugge et al. 2009; Schifferstein & Zwartkruis-Pelgrim 2008). These studies
have highlighted knowledge on why some products are cherished for years, while other’s end
up in landfill after one or two wears. This gives detailed information about product attachment,
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emotional behaviour and reasoning for consumption. Some of these aspects have been
embraced by the T&C industry, where there’s been adaptions in practices. However a lot of
these adaptions has focused on the use of sustainable materials and creating physically durable
garments rather than looking into practices that facilitate ED (Nerurkar 2016). Similarly Cooper
et al. (2016) states that there is too much emphasis on environmental and financial benefits,
while little is connected to ED and attachment. Previous academic research into extending
product lifetimes is still sparse, and although government funded reports have addressed the
topic (WRAP 2015), there is a need for more in-depth research into the emotional aspect of
longevity and how this can be influenced by brands, designers and marketers. It’s been
established to be an important research field as it has potential in reducing the environmental
impact that is associated with the T&C industry (Goworek et al. 2018; WRAP 2012). Niinimäki
(2011) has contributed several studies that investigate the reasons for continuation of use. In
one study it’s argued that satisfying user experience can be achieved, once it meets the user’s
expectation for quality and functionality, as well as aesthetical dimensions to create emotional
attachment by focusing on value creation (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015). Van Nes & Cramer
(2003; 2006) argue that the needs of the consumer include a well-functioning and up-to-date
product that continuously fulfil changing needs. The challenge is thus ensuring that product
lifetime can be achieved through continued satisfaction which enables for deep attachment
(ibid.). This requires that products are designed in a way which facilitates this, therefore
opening up for research on ED from a brand perspective.
Most approach to longevity have had a focus on the material characteristics and the assumptions
regarding these design theories have been critiqued to fall short (Fletcher & Grose 2012). These
limitations have also been highlighted by other researchers (Chapman 2015; Connor-Crabb
2017; Cooper 2010)
Studying ED for longevity from a brand perspective is a narrowly explored field of research,
but it’s an essential aspect to understand the potential within ED. It can enable companies to
gain understanding in tools, frameworks and strategies that can foster emotional bonds between
product and user, and thereby prolong life and creating a needed change in the industry. Haines-
Gadd et al. (2018) argue that organisations should consider alternative perspectives, that can
help uncover new value propositions, including slowing down the inner loops of use to produce
longer lasting relationships, that increase product longevity through integration of ED using
design processes and communication.
1.4 Research Purpose & Questions
The purpose of this thesis is to narrow the research gap and expand on the current literature
in relation to the topic of ED, and thereby bring a broader perspective on ED, by exploring the
enablers and challenges from a brand perspective, and further understand the potential of
integration through the use of strategies and creative problem solving.
ED is a relatively new field within longevity, however a crucial aspect when it comes to
enabling product retention. It can foster change in consumption behaviour and stimulate
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circularity. Prolonging the active life of garments can decrease climate impact which shows
that a lot of potential lies within ED (Chapman 2015).
The research questions for this master’s thesis, where developed in response to gaps which were
identified in the literature review. The motive for this research is to broaden the perspective of
ED for longevity, thus looking further than previous research. By looking at design theory,
using diverse teams and reframing problems through experimentation and collaboration,
creative potential can be unleashed (Liedtka 2018). Previous research indicate the brands have
potential to influence emotional attachment (Chapman 2015; Cooper et al. 2013a). However,
there are both challenges and enablers that needs to be considered. Following this statement,
the first research question has been developed for this thesis:
RQ1: What are the challenges and enablers for implementing ED within the T&C industry from
a brand perspective?
ED challenges the throwaway society, by progressing around a broad outlook of design tools,
methods and frameworks, that aims to build resilience into the relationship between users and
products (Chapman 2015). However, as the concept of ED is still relatively unknown in relation
to integration within organisations. It would be of interest to gain a broader perspective in
integration of ED. Therefore, the second question developed for this thesis is as follows:
RQ2: How can companies within the T&C industry integrate ED to facilitate longevity within
circular product design and development?
Aligned with the aforementioned discussion, this study aims at exploring the challenges and
enablers for ED from a brand perspective, as well as how it can be integrated at product level
through the use of collaborative efforts with DT processes. The previous studies highlight that
emotional durability is a narrowly explored area from a brand perspective and there is a need
to contribute to existing research in relation to gaining a broader knowledge of the phenomenon
and its potential for integration within fashion brands, to secure better product retention. The
limited amount of research is hindered by the lack of developed design strategies which can
facilitate the integration of a viable change through ED. Therefore, this this thesis aims at
exploring the challenges and enablers of ED to highlight integration potential and elaborate on
current literature within the field. To enable for strategy development which can help tackle the
systemic problems within the industry and make challenges tangible and create actionable
solutions (Earley & Andersen 2014).
1.5 Delimitations
To ensure the quality and credibility of this research it has been important to make some
delimitation. The research seeks to identify the opportunities within ED from a brand
perspective, which will be compared and analysed using existing literature to establish an
understanding of the challenges. As well as the enabling conditions to integrate ED within
design and marketing to stimulate a more circular industry.
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Firstly, the research will be limited to companies who are situated in the western European
countries, as most of the prominent research within the field stems from these countries, further
narrowing the scope of collecting empirical data to a Swedish company, due to many companies
adopting strategies of ED to facilitate longevity are situated in the Nordics (Palm et al. 2015;
Watson et al. 2017), and thereby ensuring valuable data from the respondents in question.
Secondly, the research aims at focusing on textiles and clothing, more specifically the fashion
industry, as this relates to the aim of the research, where the focus is on ED to help facilitate
circular economy within the T&C industry. To maximise the impact within ED, the choice to
focus on fashion companies was made, as its stated that ED may not have much impact on
textile products in the home category such as towels, curtains, bedsheets etc.(Chapman 2015)
Thirdly, the study is delimited to looking at longevity from the standpoint of ED, PD stands as
a building block for ED, but as Cramer (2011) states what sense does it make to design a
garment of superior quality, which has an extended life from the PD standpoint, if the garment
is discarded of after few usages, due to a lack of attachment.
Lastly, the research will have a focused approach on brand perspective, as previous studies have
been taking a consumer-centric approach (Connor-Crabb et al. 2016; Fletcher 2017; Karell &
Niinimäki 2020; Mugge 2018; Neto & Ferreira 2020; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011; Niinimäki &
Koskinen 2015; Ravnløkke & Bang 2016; Vincent 2013), this research will look at ED from a
brand perspective to gain understanding in how the phenomenon can be facilitated at brand
level.
1.6 Thesis Structure
This master’s thesis is divided into seven chapters. For an easier navigation the structure is
presented in Table 1 on the next page. It clarifies how each chapter contributes to the research
aim through three research objectives.
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Table 1 – Overview of the structure of the thesis
43
4
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2 Literature Review
This chapter provides a narrative state-of-the-art within the field of longevity. Longevity is
defined as a perspective, which enhances sustainable practices to encourage circular economy.
Further the field of ED is explained where product-person attachment is explored. Frameworks
from influential scholars will be explained to create a preliminary understanding of the topic.
Further identified strategies will be delved into, to bring a broader perspective on integration
aspects.
2.1 Design for Longevity
Scholars have indicated that there’s an urgent need to change the way in which things are made
and consumed to create a desire for durable products (Chapman 2015; Fletcher 2017; McNeill
et al. 2020; Mugge 2018; Norman 2004). However, product obsolescence stand in the way of
product longevity. In 1932 the term planned obsolescence was introduced by economist
Bernard London (1932). The term was made popular by Vance Packard (1964) in the book The
Waste Makers, it’s defined as a business strategy which deliberately shortens the usable life of
a product with built-in timed failures (Chapman 2015; Neto & Ferreira 2020). It was introduced
to ensure economic growth and prevent stagnation of demand. This meant that the economy
relied on three strategies of obsolescence: obsolescence of function, obsolescence of quality
and obsolescence of desirability (ibid.). These terms have been discussed continuously by
scholars, and the discarding of functional commodities has become a feature of the current
consumer zeitgeist. Where the practice of cherishing and preserving has been in decline, due to
the fast paced systems and constant urge for new (Hellmann & Luedicke 2018). The throwaway
society is having societal consequences, as manufactured obsolescence has significantly
accelerated the depletion of resources, which as a consequence has aggravated environmental
pollution (Packard 1964).
Designing for longevity aims at overcoming some of the obstacles within obsolescence, such
as the changing trends, that can dictate and influence life span of products leading to premature
disposal (Chapman 2016). Designing with longevity in mind, has been identified as the single
largest opportunity to reduce the carbon, water and waste footprint in the T&C s industry
(Cooper et al. 2013a). Which means that if clothes have a longer useable life, and being replaced
less frequently, the result can be a reduction in volumes of discarded clothing, meaning that
fewer resources will be needed in the manufacturing stages, as shown in a report by WRAP
(2013a). Further research that was commissioned by the Nordic Council of ministers in (2016)
shows that extension of garment lifetime and reuse, gives the greatest environmental benefits,
compared to current available technology of incineration or recycling (Schmidt et al. 2016).
Longevity is a term which has been getting increased attention within the field of fashion,
however finding a specific definition for the term has proven to be sparse. Longevity and
durability are often used interchangeably or in connection to one another. In the report
Strategies to improve design and testing for clothing longevity (Cooper et al. 2016), longevity
is defined as:
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“…Longevity describes a products lifespan, which may be determined by factors other
than design and manufacture, such as behaviour and socio-cultural influences” (Cooper
et al. 2016, p. 7)
Longevity and life-span are terms that go beyond design, specification of material as well as
manufacturing quality (Chapman 2009; Cooper et al. 2013a; Earley 2017), where the product
use phase is influenced by users and social-cultural expectations, thus extending beyond
physicality of products (Goworek et al. 2020). Durability is similarly defined as an expression
of product lifetime, in the book Longer lasting products: alternatives to the throwaway society
(Cooper 2010) durability was defined as:
“… A measure of how long a product will continue functioning and withstand “wear and
tear” before it develops a defect that is deemed irreparable.” (Cooper 2010, p. 10)
This definition is corroborated by Belinda Carp (2020), where the ability of a product to remain
functional without the need for excessive maintenance or repair. However, other scholars define
durability as design solutions where updates and continuous maintenance can safeguard against
obsolescence (Harper 2017). This shows that a distinction between durability and longevity can
be identified, even though they are used interchangeable in the reviewed literature. Longevity,
thus represents a product’s lifespan, which is the entire period from initial acquisition of the
product to disposal as waste (Cooper 2010). A product’s longevity can therefore be determined
by several factors including consumption behaviour, cultural influences as well as design
attributes created during production (Cooper et al. 2016). Whereas, durability is more focused
on quality characteristics of the products, and the possibility of the materials used to withstand
the wearer (Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). Chapman focuses his research on ED and states that
objects which through their choices of materials grow old gracefully, while accumulating
character and value through time, demonstrates that durability is as much about emotion, value
and attachment, as it is about the strength and physical robustness of the materials used for the
products (Chapman 2014). Harper (2017) support this as she states that durability is associated
with the use of sustainable, enduring materials that age gracefully. There is a clear link between
longevity and durability, where the distinction lies between physicality and emotionality which
are aspect which require careful consideration. As:
“…there is little point in designing PD into consumer goods if consumers lack the desire
to keep them” (Chapman 2015, p. 13)
This shows that there is evidence that both PD as well as ED needs to be considered when
designing for longevity. Fletcher (2017) emphasizes that strategies for longevity are limited by
practices of use, which is why it can be difficult to influence in traditional design processes.
However, garments that have a long life have the lowest impact, thus making it a prerequisite
to find design strategies to ensure extended product lifetime (Fletcher & Grose 2012; Fletcher
& Tham 2014; Laitala & Boks 2012). Longevity is a complex phenomenon which encompasses
both technical, social and aesthetic aspects that are intertwined (Klepp et al. 2016)
2.2 Emotional durability
When discussing longevity, the ED of a product is arguably as important as it’s PD. According
to Cramer (2011) the ED is of great importance, as unwanted yet functioning and serviceable
- 11 -
products can be discarded if an emotional connection isn’t established. All products have a
lifecycle where both the physical aspect and the user plays a critical role in determining its
longevity, thus impacting the timespan the product remains relevant. There has been an
increased focus on physical quality to counteract the fast-fashion system, where poor quality
and shortened lifetimes have compromised PD (Fletcher 2015a; Gwilt & Pal 2017). PD can be
seen as a cornerstone for longevity. The PD depends on a range of factors, including
construction methods, seam strength, quality of materials and trims (Cooper et al. 2013a).
However, scholars have discussed that, products often get replaced long before their physical
function is compromised, which shows that there is need for more attention to psychological
aspects including ED (Carp 2020; Chapman 2009; Cooper et al. 2016; Haug 2017; Laitala &
Boks 2012; van Nes & Cramer 2005).
ED is a relatively new branch in relation to design research, that has evolved in the last couple
of decades, where the aim is to explore the role of emotions in the process of perception and
interaction with products (Carp 2020; Cooper et al. 2016). ED explores the idea of creating a
deeper more sustainable bond between people and product. The ultimate aim for emotionally
durable design (EDD) is thus to reduce the consumption and waste of resources through
increasing the durability of relationship between products and consumers (Fletcher & Tham
2014). Jonathan Chapman introduced the term EDD in his book Emotional Durable Design:
Objects, Experiences and Empathy (Chapman 2015), which emphasises on ways to combat the
culture of excess and disposability, which can act as a counterpoint to throwaway society.
Through the development of design tools that build resilience into product-user relationships to
ensure that new products are designed to be loved (Ibid.).
EDD thus introduces a radically new approach to sustainable design, where the focus lie in
encouraging responsible consumption, through a more conscious effort in designing products
that should be kept (Fletcher 2017). Thereby moving away from waste accumulation that the
throwaway society is facilitating, where according to Chapman(2015), waste “is a symptom of
expired empathy, a kind of failed relationship that leads to the dumping of one by the other” (p.
61). Chapman (2014) argues that current sustainable design is focused on symptoms or the
damaging after-effects of wasteful consumption, rather than looking into the challenges of the
core issues of the crisis facing the environment. Therefore, EDD seeks to gain an understanding
into the reason for disposal of the vast amounts of objects with fast turnaround. By looking at
emotional factors in various stages of the products life from purchasing decision, to use to
disposal. Emotional durable products are products that are designed to evolve and transform in
an extended lifecycle philosophy, thus being able to evolve with the consumer, unfolding
narratives as they develop (Earley 2017; McNeill et al. 2020). Several empirical studies have
provided clear evidence that people form deep and complex relationships with material
products, which can ensure longevity within the garments (Casais et al. 2015; Mugge et al.
2009; Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013; Schifferstein & Zwartkruis-Pelgrim 2008; van Nes &
Cramer 2006).
One of the challenges within product lifetime extensions is ensuring continuous satisfaction
with the product to form a deep attachment over time (Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013). It has
- 12 -
been found that once a product attachment is formed, consumers have a greater tendency to
care for the product and repair it. Thereby enabling a long and meaningful life through
continuous repair and care (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015). However, some scholars are critical
in this regard as they argue that strong bonds with certain product does not necessarily lead to
a reduction in further consumption (Cooper 2010; Fletcher 2015a). Mugge, Schoorman &
Schifferstein (2009) further elaborate on this, where they recognise that consumers may keep
their valued possessions, but still buy replacements once their cherished product no longer
perform the original function. This shows that objects can have a significant role that extends
beyond their material value (Chapman 2015; Fletcher 2017; Norman 2004). Harper (2017)
argues that the potential that lies within an items such as piece of clothing, where a strong
emotional bond is established, to reduce consumption is conditional on their perceived aesthetic
value. Harper refers to this as aesthetic sustainability, where frequent use and continuous
satisfaction is linked with items, where the emotional value is matched with a strong aesthetic
appeal (ibid).
2.3 Person-Product Relationship
To understand ED, it’s essential to gain insight in person-product relationship, a lot of previous
research have investigated this topic, and establishing an emotional bond between product and
person requires that you reach different levels of processing in the brain, to ensure a sustained
relationship, this section will provide a detailed insight in person-product relationship. In the
contemporary society product-attachment is complex, consumers form attachments to some
object, while others are easily disposed of. This links to the thoughts of Harper (2017), who
believes that aesthetic value is necessary to establish a user-product connection, where focus
lies within both psychological, sensuous and physical bonds. The attachment process can be
difficult to study and consist of subjective factors. Chapman (2009) explains that the discursive
engagement between the consumer and the product develops through time and stimulation,
which often isn’t consciously realised. Further experiences with products result in shared
narratives, which enables the product to become a reminder to the consumer of a certain
memory (Mugge et al. 2006). This enables favourite possessions to be charged with memories
(Mugge 2018). In previous research, Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein (2005) has
considered two levels of product attachment. The first level encompasses the physical form or
function of the product, which can be integrated through product design. The second level is
linked to the attachment to memories and shared experiences with the product, which has longer
lasting potential, but is more difficult to create. Don Norman (2004) examined the physical and
emotional aspects of products in his concept of the three-level design (Figure 1), which
correlates with different levels of processing in the human brain.
- 13 -
Figure 1 – The Three Levels of Design – Adapted from Norman (2004)
The proposed levels are different, yet interconnected, each of which influences the experience
of the world and the products within. The three levels are visceral, behavioural and reflective.
o The visceral level – is responsible for the ingrained, automatic and somewhat animalistic
qualities in human emotion. It requires a focus on appearance and instant appeal through
tactile qualities of how things look and feel.
o The behavioural level – refers to the controlled factor of human action, where human
unconsciously analyse a situation to develop effective strategies. Thereby, the
behavioural level of design needs to consider the pleasure and effectiveness of use
o The reflective level – is the home of reflection and conscious thought. Which is directed
towards self-image as well as the memories associated with the product.
The three levels of design all combine to form the entire product experience, which can help
lead to product-person relationship. This requires focus on cognition, meaning and pleasure,
where there’s a complex interconnection between both physical properties, symbolic meaning
and the potential emotional value. These three levels of design can be utilised to gain
understanding in how products can be designed and altered to evoke emotion with consumers.
Norman argues that to form an emotional bond with a product a sustained interaction is required
(Norman 2004, p. 46). This is corroborated by Chapman (2015) who states that waste is failed
relationship between consumer and product, thus needing a sustained interaction. However, ED
requires sustained physical properties which enables an emotional bond to be developed.
Products are required to have a material ability as well as immaterial opportunity to age together
with the consumer in a dignified way (Norman 2004). Harper (2017) similarly express that there
- 14 -
are several levels to a products design that facilitate a deeper connection and thereby enables
longevity. Her study on aesthetic sustainability consists of emotional value. However as
described previously emotional attachment can be very subjective, whereas aesthetic
sustainability is more universal as it consists of designs that are broadly satisfying, that can
maintain satisfaction through sensory experience. This relates to the visceral level and develops
into the behavioural level. Symbolic value and meaning, relates to a product deemed
irreplaceable by the user, thus consumer-product attachment implies that an emotional bond
between user and object exist (Schifferstein & Zwartkruis-Pelgrim 2008).
It is clear that the paradigm of designing for longevity, needs to be considers when developing
new strategies (Chapman 2009). Strategies for longevity to increase product lifetimes, have
been proposed by researchers as a way to tackle the consumption issues in the T&C industry.
The next section will provide an overview of some of the most prominent frameworks that have
been developed for ED followed by strategies stemming from the frameworks and previous
scholars. These frameworks provide the first conceptual frameworks on ED and allows for an
extensive understanding in the phenomenon and how strategies can provide tools to integrate
certain aspects of emotional durability.
2.4 Frameworks for emotional durability
Human emotions are by nature intangible, while the character of design consists of many
different aspects. Constructing guidelines for designers, marketers and actors involved in the
product development stages can therefore be challenging. It’s essential to invest efforts into
prolonging lifetimes and the need has been recognised by scholars, where EDD has provided
potential to establish strategies which can foster emotional attachment between user and product
(Chapman 2014). In the book Emotionally Durable Design: Objects, Experiences & Empathy
(2015) Chapman tries to partner theory with application advice for designers. Fletcher & Grose
(2012) explains that designers are not merely creators of object, but need to consider the use
phase and create systems which promote and support life-extending actions, which can involve
activities of communicator-educator, facilitator or entrepreneur.
2.4.1 Six-point framework
Frameworks and tools that can enable for the development and integration of ED within
products are still scarce. It has become known that emotion and design have a connection but
establishing tools and guides has shown to be challenging. In regard to ED, Jonathan Chapman
provided one of the first efforts. Drawing up guidelines to be used by designers, in his PhD
thesis. An empirical study was conducted, where more than 2.000 respondents were surveyed
on domestic electronics. Six themes were identified in a six-point framework (Chapman 2015,
p. 175) The framework was chosen, as it’s one of the first tools that can help integrate ED from
a company’s perspective. The framework has been used as inspiration for scholars after and
therefore seen as a prominent and valuable framework and include six themes:
o Narrative o Fiction/Enchantment o Detachment
o Consciousness o Attachment o Surface
- 15 -
Chapman’s framework was refined to supply designers and product developers with a
conceptual pathway to launch engagement with aspects surrounding ED. The framework has
similarities with work by other scholars. Design strategies that were mentioned in a study by
Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein (2005), where it’s stated that a strong person-product
relationship can be useful in regard to postponing product replacements, as well as extending
psychological lifetime of durables (p. 41). Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein provide ideas
and strategies that reflect on memories as well as products that are personalised, where the focus
lies within creating products which facilitate memories, which thereby make products
irreplaceable thus postponing replacement. This resonate with Chapman’s Narrative, which
suggests that users share a unique personal history with a product (Chapman 2015, p. 175).
Further, Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein (2005) propose a strategy which focuses on
shared history through aging with dignity which has similar points to Chapman’s surface theme,
which focuses on products that can age well physically while developing character (Chapman
2015, p. 175). Superior utility, superior appearance and long life guarantees are also discussed,
which indicates a need for PD as well as strategies for ED (Mugge et al. 2005).
2.4.2 Emotional durability Design Nine
The six-point framework has acted as a catalyst for more development in the field. One of the
more recent attempt in relation to formulating a set of guidelines for integrating emotionally
durable design within design practices is the Emotional durability design nine established by
Haines-Gadd, Chapman, Lloyd, Mason & Aliakseyeu (2018). It’s a framework as well as a tool
kit for designers. The Emotional Durability Design Nine presented thirty-eight strategies to help
with development of more emotionally engaging product experiences, together with nine
overarching themes that include:
o Relationship o Narratives o Identity
o Imagination o Conversations o Consciousness
o Integrity o Materiality o Evolvability
The benefits discussed within the Emotional Durability Design Nine includes the ability to
develop a prosperous emotional engagement that facilitate the extension of emotional– and
physical lifetime. As well as encouraging a more exciting and emotionally engaging user
experience (ibid.). Thus, aiming for designing products with extended lifetimes, where product
replacement is postponed. An interesting aspect in this framework is delving into the different
strategies within the overarching themes. Within integrity; ensuring quality, durability and
reliability is discussed, which resonates with Mugge, Schoormans and Schifferstein’s strategy
(2005) of long life guarantees and thus the PD needs to be a foundational level. Customisation
and personalisation are mentioned in the theme of identity, which has been mentioned by
several scholars as a way to promote a connection between user and product (Cooper et al.
2016; Laitala & Boks 2012; Mugge et al. 2005; Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013). Further,
relationship delves into the field of participation with the product, which includes educating
users in repairing and maintaining their products (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). Repair, mending
- 16 -
and maintaining has been a craft which was prominent prior to the introduction of fast fashion.
However, repairing products is no longer deemed worthwhile as the current system is based on
fast replacement of products and planned obsolescence (Fletcher 2015a; Niinimäki & Koskinen
2015). However, there is evidence that behaviour connected to maintenance and repair can
contribute to well-being and thereby offer a double dividend of both environmental and
personal benefits (Connor-Crabb et al. 2016). Imagination, delves into delight, intriguing the
user and this creating engagement, this can be done through the creation of surprise, which can
include unexpected functional interactions, thereby creating a moment of surprise to increase
interaction and engagement (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). This aspect is also discussed in detail
by Harper (2017), where an objects need to nourish senses through surprises, while the object
should get more attractive when worn and used, leading the user to discover and grow with the
product through building relationships. The ED design nine offers a toolkit for designers to
immerse themselves in, to gain insight and knowledge in how to design for ED, the tool kit
offers different strategies according to product types.
2.5 Strategies for Emotional Durability
The previous discussed frameworks have a more holistic approach to ED; however they have
acted as the foundation for building a range of strategies that can be used to facilitate ED. These
are shown in Table 2 – Key Strategies for ED. The strategies have been discussed by previous
researchers in connection to establishing ED. The six most highlighted strategies will be
explained in the section 2.5.1-2.5.6.
2.5.1 Dependability & Physical durability
Dependability is an essential aspect when developing attachment, dissatisfaction due to poor
PD can enable a fate in landfill rather than in the consumer’s wardrobe. PD links to integrity in
the Emotional durability Design Nine Framework where the emphasis of integrity lies within
quality and transparency (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). Research shows that premature garment
failure, such as seam slippage or pilling can cause consumer frustration, where low quality is a
key reason for dissatisfaction within T&C (Niinimäki 2011). Furthermore, physical durable
clothing has better chances of being repaired according to a report by WRAP (2013a). However,
some researchers have shown scepticism towards the benefits of extending PD of garments
(Fletcher 2015a). Fletcher (2015a) argues that a lot of fashion products already have the
characteristics to last well beyond the useful lifetime, in the eyes of their owners. PD ensures
that the consumer can rely on the garment to stay functioning and be resistant to wear and tear
(Cooper et al. 2013a). Improving PD from a material quality standpoint has been identified as
one of the main design intervention, which can have a huge effect on longevity of clothing
(Cooper 2010).
2.5.2 Customisation & Personalisation & Co-Creation
Product attachment can be seen as a unique consumer experience, which involve memories
between the user and the product, which can be deemed a challenge due to subjectivity (Mugge
- 17 -
2018). As claimed by Niinimäki and Hassi (2011) persistent product-user relationships can be
created through personalised and unique design or co-creation processes, which requires a shift
in mindset, in addition to new business models with supporting manufacturing systems. In
Chapmans (2015) six-point framework this is highlighted in the theme narrative, where he
explains that EDD requires unique personal history with products, which can be created through
personalisation. This is corroborated by Haines-Gadd et al. (2018), who explains customisation
and personalisation through the themes of identity and narrative can promote a connection
between user and product. Personalisation can often be created through collaborative efforts
and co-creation between user and brand (Haug 2019). Co-creation can foster personal meaning
and attachment, which can be done through mass customisation (Haeggblom & Budde 2021).
Prior to the introduction of fast fashion, it was normal to utilise tailors and have custom
garments made to fit and altered as the user changed (Neto & Ferreira 2020). This ensured
inclusion in the design process, by selecting materials and involvement in fit, thus naturally
building a relation. The personal narrative thus initiates at the drawing board and will unfold
through use and time (Cramer 2011; Laitala & Klepp 2011). Participation and customisation in
the design stage, can thus be seen as a first step to re-engage the consumer, and thereby establish
a more in-depth relationship between consumer and garment. Establishing a stronger emotional
connection has shown to engage with a trickle-down effect as it helps promote a stronger
interest in maintenance of garments (Haeggblom & Budde 2021).
Customisation and personalisation of products provide a more flexible product that can help
provide meaning to the consumer, this can be facilitated through open source design, co-
creation, mass customisation and diy-activities, which enables consumers to attach self-
expressive value to the product (Nerurkar 2016; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011; van den Berge et al.
2020). Further, ensuring product uniqueness that can help facilitate self-expression, which has
the ability to extend the emotional bond between product and user (Ceschin & Gaziulusoy
2016). In the process of personalising a product, a consumer directs attention, care, time and
energy in the product, thereby investing efforts in the product, thus stimulating the emotional
bond between the user and product (Mugge et al. 2009). Enabling the consumer to interact and
make small alterations, can enhance and emotional durable relationship, through experience
and create value through active participation (EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017).
2.5.3 Flexible & Modular Design
Flexible & Modular design draws parallels on the themes of evolvability and imagination,
described in the Emotional durability Design Nine Framework by Haines-Gadd et al. (2018),
where evolvability focuses on how a product can transform according to users’ needs. Further,
modular components can allow for the user to involve imagination to create surprising effects,
which allows for continuous engagement which can allow for attachment and relationship
building. The concept of flexible design as a strategy in product design has been suggested by
scholars (Chapman 2015; Mugge et al. 2005; van Nes & Cramer 2005). Functional design
encompasses aspects of modularity, which enables for garments to be adjusted, disassembled,
easier to care for (Cooper et al. 2016). This is corroborated by Van Nes and Cramer (2005),
who states that flexible products ensure that products are designed for variability, product
- 18 -
attachment and preparing for potential future repairs or upgrades. In relation Chapman (2009)
has explained that one of the reasons for failed relationships between user and product, is linked
to users evolving, while products stay stagnant. Thus, having products that can be updateable
through modular elements can address this need for change as users evolve (Connor-Crabb et
al. 2016). Within flexibility and modular design lies the field of adaptability. A crucial aspect
when it comes to clothing lifetimes includes size and fit, as they have been discussed as a
common reason why functional garments end up in landfills (Earley 2017; Laitala & Klepp
2011; WRAP 2015). In the UK 56% of consumers own pieces of clothing that no longer fit,
where one quarter states that they would wear items longer if they could be altered for a better
fit. (Cooper et al. 2016). Womenswear and menswear could benefit from designs that have
adjustable features that acknowledge potential fluctuations in weight and body shape, whereas
childrenswear fluctuations can often be linked to growth (Cooper et al. 2013a; Laitala & Boks
2012).
Providing garments with removable parts can allow for both aesthetic updates, as well as enable
easy repair and replacement, when a part of the garment is damaged, worn out or requires
alteration in size (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015). Modular design can enable consumers to alter
their garments, when desires change, this enables for flexibility and evolvability for the user,
and thereby strengthen the bond between user and garment (van Nes & Cramer 2003). However
modularity and adaptability needs to be carefully considered as it can contribute to increased
consumption, when these additional features can lure to user to purchase more, it’s therefore
essential to consider how to design for modularity without increasing consumption (Fletcher &
Grose 2012). Garments that have detachable parts have existed for a long time. Today it’s
common to find detachable hoods, jacket linings and trouser legs, especially in functional
outwear to create more wear options (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015). Further it allows to build
anticipation from knowing that there are elements than can be upgraded, modular product have
the possibility to collect memories and stories to show the progression of the user’s journey,
which builds up a multi-layered narrative (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018).
2.5.4 Gracefully ageing
Experiences between the user and the garment influences emotional attachment and motivates
the user to wear the garments more. Thereby providing a satisfying experience for the user,
which can be seen as a strategy to facilitate ED. Scholars have discussed these experiences to
include products which age well (Chapman 2014; Cooper et al. 2016; Fletcher 2015a;
Haeggblom & Budde 2021; van den Berge et al. 2020). In the six-point framework, Chapman
(2015) describes the theme surface, which includes designing products which age well and
therefore create a tangible character, that evolves with the user. Further, explained through
materiality where things that age gracefully has the potential to become unique and show signs
of wear, which tells the story of the user, thus fostering an emotional attachment (Haeggblom
& Budde 2021; Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). Product that age with dignity and grace, can enable
for a personalised product that encompass self-expression, which is of high importance in ED
(Ceschin & Gaziulusoy 2016). Further objects which accumulate character and value through
time has greater potential to encourage ED by embodying the signs of life through patina, which
- 19 -
helps sustain a narrative (Chapman 2014). An example of this is denim, which has a rich
history. Denim carries the impression of the wearer as well as show evidence of their
personality. Denim is often defined as a second skin, where signs of wear can be seen in stains,
frayed areas, patches which associate to events and experiences that has happened between the
garment and the wearer (Townsend 2015). Denim has an ingrained quality of recording the
wearers different stages life, which can be aesthetically and emotionally assessed by both
wearer and the surroundings (ibid.). Walker (2006) argues that exploring products that bear the
marks of time, can have a richness. However, people have gotten accustomed to new glossy
and perfect, which means that appreciation of gracefully aging will require a readjustment in
value system in relation to expectation of product aesthetics (ibid.).
2.5.5 Maintenance & Repair
Clothing maintenance and repair is a skill that enables people to ensure that their valued
possessions can get an extended lifetime. However as quality in garments has declined and
lifetimes have been shortened, there is very little incentive left to repair garment (Niinimäki &
Hassi 2011). Haines-Gadd et al. (2018) explains repair through the theme relationship, where
the craft of fixing and maintaining products can help establish an emotional connection. Further,
repair has the potential to create a ritual or habit for the user, which can further establish a
deeper bond (ibid.). There is a rising call for embracing the skills of repair and clothing
maintenance, and introduce more education in the field of repair to transition to a more
sustainable fashion future (Fletcher 2017). However, previous studies shows that garments
currently doesn’t lend themselves to be easily repaired, due to low quality that can create
complications in repair and alterations (Fletcher 2015a). Connor-crab (2017) highlights that
simple alterations such as changing the hem of a garment can be made extensively laborious,
as the quick turnaround can mean that quality checks are skipped, leaving hems uneven.
Further, extra buttons and swatches that help with repairs and alterations are rarely provided
with garments. However, reintroducing this could be a way to encourage repair practices
(Allwood et al. 2015; Cooper et al. 2013a; WRAP 2015; WRAP 2012). Some of the challenges
that lie within repair include that it needs to be simple to get the user involved (van Nes &
Cramer 2005). Repair and maintenance gives potential for the user and the product to share an
experience together which can stimulate an emotional bond and thereby increase durability and
cut waste (Goworek et al. 2018). Product attachment which can happen through repair can
further foster brand attachment and thereby create brand loyalty (Chapman 2014). Mugge
(2018) highlights that we have a tendency to take better care of the products that we are attached
to. This idea is echoed by Ninnimäki (2011), who states that we handle clothes that are of high
value, with better care to extend their longevity, which means we are careful with maintenance
and we mend when necessary. Repair services can help extend the life of a garment, but
mending and repairing also serves as the potential to create a visceral link between the wearer
and the garment (Harper 2017; Norman 2004). Repair and maintenance can therefore act as an
important facilitator towards ED. Repair can also be facilitated as a product-service system,
which has the ability to produce structural changes in the way products are consumed, as
consumers will come back to the company for repair (Chapman 2016; Haug 2019).
- 20 -
2.5.6 Transparency & Traceability
Products convey information and they work as storytellers, where users can establish unique
and personal histories with them, which through time can form layers of significance and
narrative (Chapman 2015). Evolving narrative experiences is one of the building blocks within
ED. It takes time to create these emotional bonds between user and object, that often emerge
from sustained interaction and associated with memories (Norman 2004). Initiating a
conversation between the user and the object establish the building block for a sustained
relationship. Haegblom & Budde (2021) states that keeping the conversation going after the
point of sales, can be achieved through a digital traceability tag, and have a potential in
prolonging the use of garments. As it can act as a tool that tells the story of the garment, as well
as ensure the functional aspects of the garments are kept, by presenting the user with
information regarding care, repair and potential upgrades. Transparency and traceability
innovations can be utilized to develop strategies that can spark the emotional side of longevity.
By delivering information about the garment at the point of acquisition, a relationship could
flourish between user and product as they user gains insight in the work and craft involved in
making the garment (Neto & Ferreira 2020).
Table 2 – Key Strategies for ED
Strategies Researchers Link with
(Haines-
Gadd et al.
2018)
Link with
(Chapman
2015)
Dependability
& Physical
durability
(Cooper 2010; Cooper et al.
2013a; Fletcher 2015a;
Niinimäki 2011)
o Integrity o Surface
Customisation
&
Personalisation
(Cramer 2011; Haeggblom &
Budde 2021; Laitala & Klepp
2011; Mugge et al. 2009; Neto
& Ferreira 2020; Niinimäki &
Hassi 2011; van den Berge et
al. 2020)
o Imagination
o Identity
o Materiality
o Consciousness
Flexible &
Modular
Design
(Chapman 2015; Cooper et al.
2016; Mugge et al. 2005; van
Nes & Cramer 2005)
o Evolvability
o Fiction
Gracefully
Ageing
(Connor-Crabb et al. 2016;
Earley 2017; Fletcher & Grose
2012; Laitala & Boks 2012;
Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015)
o Narrative
o Evolvability
o Materiality
o Surface
o Narrative
Maintenance
& Repair
(Allwood et al. 2015; Cooper et
al. 2013a; Fletcher 2017;
Goworek et al. 2018; Mugge
2018; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011)
o Relationship o Attachment
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Transparency
& Traceability
(Chapman 2015; Haeggblom &
Budde 2021; Neto & Ferreira
2020; Norman 2004)
o Conversatio
ns
o Integrity
o Attachment
2.6 Summary
Summarised, it has been found that previous research shows that a great percentage of durable
garments are discarded and replaced while still functional (Chapman 2016). Few products were
found to be disposed due to functional failures, but due to a lack of engagement and
development of emotional bond (Niinimäki 2011). An emotional bond has potential to lead to
a protective behavior, and thereby improve the product retention and defer product replacement
(Mugge et al. 2006). This shows that extending the active life of clothing has potential to bring
both environmental benefits (Allwood et al. 2015), as well as offering the greatest savings
compared with other practices in relation to clothing lifecycle (WRAP 2012).
Addressing this through emotional durability shows potential, however many studies have
addressing integration of emotional durability through strategies is scarce. Previous studies
have provided conceptual frameworks, in relation to emotional durability (Chapman 2015;
Haines-Gadd et al. 2018; Norman 2004), which provide good background knowledge regarding
the phenomenon. In literature a variety of approaches for extending lifespans are discussed,
however not fully considered in relation to integration from a brand perspective.
This, from this review of literature, it’s evident that there is a gap in knowledge which needs to
be covered, in relation to integration of emotional durability. It’s therefore necessary to delve
into challenges and enablers to understand the potential within the emerging research field.
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3 Theoretical Framework
The theoretical framework acts as a guide for the research, which is derived from existing
theories in literature and validated by others (Grant & Osanloo 2014). It enables for an
understanding in the researcher’s lens to view the world. The theoretical chapter will enhance
and discuss the theory of DT relevant to ED from a brand perspective to gain understanding in
integration possibilities.
3.1 Motivation for the use of Design Thinking
EDD proposes the creation of products that endure the test of time in terms of technological-,
physical- and emotional durability (Chapman 2015). In the book Emotionally durable design:
Objects, experiences and empathy (2015) tools and ideas are presented that encourage people
to think about designing things that needs to be cherished and kept, rather than thrown away
prematurely. Chapman (2015) argues that product lifetime extension incorporates aspects of
lasting emotional – as well as physical perspective. The strategies that were discussed in the
literature review points out, that there is a need for changes in how products are developed and
designed to fit within ED. As well as understanding how value can be integrated in the
processes to create value for both companies and consumers. The literature highlight that
designing for ED requires innovative thinking, a deep understanding in users’ needs and desires
and alterations in the way businesses design products, where the creative thought-process used
by designers could be central to improving sustainability in the industry (Goworek et al. 2018).
Burcikova (2019) argues that the inherent complexity that lies within T&C and the relationship
between user and products requires activist agendas in DT-processes and user behaviour which
can foster longevity in the industry. Further, Baldassarre et al. (2020) state that design theory
can address environmental and societal issues through rethinking processes & operations to
foster innovation. DT has the potential to be utilised to develop innovative solutions for
complex problem, which means that it can be used as to overcome some of the challenges
identified within ED for longevity, by incorporating stakeholders, interests and value of humans
into the design process, through the use of collaborative work in multidisciplinary teams
(Brown 2008; Geissdoerfer et al. 2016). However a gap still remains in regard to utilising design
theories successfully to foster longevity and sustainability in business practice, which is a hurdle
that needs to be overcome, through ensuring that theoretical ideas are reframed (Tukker 2015).
3.2 Design Thinking
The fashion industry operates in a volatile and highly competitive environment, where agile,
creative, flexible recognition can ensure a competitive advantage (Agost & Vergara 2020).
Companies that encompass an entrepreneurial mindset and have a culture of innovation,
enhances the overall creativity within employees which can turn to new products, services and
business models, that challenge stagnated ways of operating. Design management scholars have
argued that design is suited for innovation as it’s human-centred while embracing ambiguity
and has a wide approach that is forward looking when it comes to problem solving (Mozota
2010; Stamm 2010). DT has appeared as a multidisciplinary human-centred approach to foster
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innovation and building new work processes in organisations. The act of designing includes
participatory involvement, and according to Simonsen et al. (2014) design revolves around a
process of investigating, understanding, reflecting, establishing, developing and supporting
mutual learning between involved participants, where a fundamental challenge lies within the
need to move away from just designing things but rather integrating systems and social
interaction into objects. DT has emerged from the design method movement, where the focus
was on understanding process and methods used by designers to successfully solve problems
(Buchanan 1992; Kimbell 2015). DT has been popularized by IDEO (IDEO nd), as a human-
centred, empathy-first approach to creativity and innovation. It collaboratively draws from a
toolkit to integrate needs of people, the possibilities of technology and the requirement for
business success. According to IDEO (nd) DT encompasses the ability to come up with
unconventional ideas that can be tested, while being open to fail and learn from them, all while
keeping people at the centre of every process. Interpretations of the term Design Thinking vary,
where descriptions from literature range from the ability to make sure you answer the right
problems (Norman 2004), ways to approach a problem (Cooper et al. 2009; Kimbell 2015), a
key activity within management (Cooper et al. 2009), as a general theory of design (Kimbell
2015), as the best way to be creative and innovate (Buchanan 1992; Johansson‐Sköldberg et al.
2013), a method that match needs with technological feasibility and viable business strategy for
innovation and enablement (Brown 2008).
The key themes that characterize DT for this thesis are as followed:
o Human centeredness: the needs of humans and their preferences are placed at the centre
of the design process (Brown 2008; Bruce & Cooper 1997; Cooper et al. 2009)
o Collaboration: DT requires collaboration, as it’s a multidisciplinary and requires a
design team, as well as inclusion of stakeholders as the process moves across different
levels (Designforlongevity.com 2021; IDEO nd)
o Non-linearity: DT encourages the exploration of iterative cycles of thinking,
prototyping and testing. This prevents design teams and stakeholders to stick to one
solution at the beginning that may not be optimal, but instead iterative cycles push
boundaries to create the most optimal product/service to ensure longevity (Brown 2008;
IDEO nd)
o Optimism: DT is based on a fundamental belief that everyone can create a change,
which shows that DT requires optimism (IDEO nd)
DT acts as a process where a team that works from multidisciplinary fields apply a set of design
practices to a challenge or problem that needs to be solved and thereby leading to new
innovations and changes in practice (Brown 2008). According to Cooper, Junginger &
Lockwood (2009) it encourages the exploration of several solutions through the focus on
human-cantered needs, where an iterative design process aims to find new solutions. ED is a
complex aspect which through DT can reach explorative design processes that solves some of
the obstacles within the field of ED, while focusing on the needs of the users as a basis for the
design process. A key element in designing for longevity is incorporating the need of users and
have an understanding in their desires, demands and behaviour to establish a connection
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between product and user. Creative problem solving, which DT is part of has not been embraced
much by the fashion industry but could theoretically work as a frontier for sustainable fashion,
as it has potential to come up with innovative solutions for lifetime expansion of T&C
(Designforlongevity.com 2021). A human-cantered design approach requires research and
iterative development but has potential to unlock new knowledge and ideas that can provide a
competitive advantage, while solving the issues that the T&C industry is facing. IDEO (nd)
argues that DT allows for better informed product management decisions. The core priority of
DT is finding the perfect point of intersection between desirability, feasibility and viability. It
thereby allows for asking the right questions which can propel creativity. The desirability lens
identifies needs, dreams and behaviours of the people who will be affected by the solution
provided from DT. Once the challenges are examined through the lens of desirability, possible
solutions can be identified through the lens of feasibility and viability, by asking questions such
as “what is technically feasible” and “what can be viable from a financial perspective” (IDEO
nd). The final solution that the involved parties identify during the design process, should lie
within the area where the three lenses overlap (Figure 2)
Figure 2 – DT adapted from IDEO (nd)
- 25 -
DT doesn’t follow a linear process. It seeks to understand the user while challenging the
assumptions, and thereby redefine the problems in attempt to identify the alternative strategies
and solutions, that aren’t necessarily apparent instantly at the first level of understanding
(Norman 2004). The most important aspect of DT according to IDEO (nd) is that the process is
iterative and expansive, where multiple solutions are identified. The three levels of design that
was explained in the literature review, shows that designers should not stop at the first level,
but iteratively delve into more levels to gain deep understanding of the user and from there
several solutions can be identified. DT requires moving through five main phases that can be
seen in Table 3 (CentreforSustainableFashion 2021; Geissdoerfer et al. 2016; IDEO nd).
However, in some literature three phases are highlighted, which include inspiration, ideation
and implementation (Brown 2008; Earley & Andersen 2014). Going through the phases enables
companies to solve problems that have emerged due to situations of uncertainty, ambiguity and
instability and thereby find appropriate solutions (Geissdoerfer et al. 2016).
Table 3 – Design Thinking 5-step process and parameters
Empathise
o Frame design challenge o Stay open minded o Cross disciplinary
exchange
o Redefine needs o Explore perspective o Playful innovation
Define
o Brainstorm o Clarify purpose o Gather knowledge & data
o contextualise o plan activities o Customer research
Ideate
o System approach thinking o Critical practice o explore
o experiment with new
methods
o knowledge sharing o keep collecting feedback
Prototype
o risk, test, fail, test o Iterative versions o Tweak concept
o Interact & respond – co-
create
o Play & Practice o Explore solutions
Test
o Pilot Testing o Get feedback from users o Embrace failure
o Monitor & evaluate o Build partnerships o Communication tools for
new designs
In a design process several stakeholders and people within different departments are involved.
This can create obstacles as developing, categorizing and organizing ideas can be difficult,
which DT can help overcome, as it can organizes the core ideas and enable everyone involved
to keep track of the progress and continuously iterate and push the ideas further, and thereby
arrive at successful solutions (IDEO nd). DT is a problem-solving approach that combines a
holistic user-centred perspective with both rational and analytical research with the main goal
of creating innovative solutions to complex challenges (Brown 2008).
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DT theory builds on the premise that understanding the desires and needs of both users as well
as utilizing the tools and knowledge from the company to iterative test solutions (IDEO nd). It
seeks to equip the people involved with an open mind that can help channel creativity and
imagination. DT allows for an establishment between designer’s sensibility and methods, that
enables to respond to people’s needs, while merging it with available technology, that is suitable
and feasible. As follows, by utilising an appropriate business strategy, customers’ needs can be
transformed into value and thereby create new market opportunity (Cooper et al. 2009).
3.3 Design Thinking theory in the context of Textile & Clothing
The current challenges that the fashion industry is facing requires creativity and imagination
that moves beyond the norm to make rapid changes on different levels within the field. Utilizing
DT can provide a leverage for engagement and transformation, where the process of DT
requires reflection and development of ideas and solution throughout the process. Putting
emphasis on this flexibility assures that the solution proceeds in the direction wanted according
to the challenges set out. Simonsen et al. (2014) states that designing for a more sustainable
world requires an active reflection on the context. As well as reconfiguring agendas and
technologies, where emphasis should be put on collaboration between stakeholders and actors,
who have a shared vision for the future to ensure sustainable solutions. By using DT the
collaborative processes are used to meet people’s needs and not only focus on what is
technically feasible. It further allows for more value for the consumers, as it a process which is
inspired by real customer needs, which isn’t always the case in the traditional supply chain
(Geissdoerfer et al. 2016). Further Earley and Andersen (2014) argue that designing thinking
within the T&C industry has the potential to make challenges within the industry more tangible
and thus make more actionable efforts to overcome these obstacles. DT allows for co-creation
across organisations, which means that future needs can be met through collaborative &
multidisciplinary design, where innovation can be created through empathy, prototyping,
synthesising, communication and evaluation (Valentine et al. 2017). Further, it has been
claimed that by utilising DT approaches, the likelihood of producing products and services that
have a positive sustainable outcome increases, as it involves methods that seeks suitable
solutions for advanced problems (Cooper et al. 2009). However, implementing theory into
practice can be challenging as there can be conflicts in language in relation to the difference
between business practice and academic research, which needs to be considered when
implementing theory into practice (Baldassarre et al. 2020).
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4 Methodology
The following chapter aims at explaining the research methodology for the study. It includes a
detailed description of the research design, thorough justification to the applied methods,
collection and analysis of the collected data. It includes a discussion of the quality and ethical
considerations needed to fulfil the research aims.
4.1 Research Design
The lack of scientific research on ED as a facilitator for longevity, in relation to brand
perspective, support the need to study the concept of ED utilising theory grounded in DT. The
discussed research problem and the reasoned purpose influenced the choice of research design.
Due to the RQ’s formed, an exploratory qualitative research approach was chosen to gain a
detailed understanding of ED from a brand perspective. This method was deemed as the most
appropriate (Yin 2014). As qualitative research has the ability to provide a deeper understanding
of social phenomenon (Flick et al. 2004), and therefore proved imperative for this study. This
thesis therefore uses an exploratory, abductive and qualitative approach using a single case
study, to develop new scientific insights in the topic of ED. Where abduction strategy aims at
exploring and understanding a phenomenon and is therefore a suitable strategy for this thesis.
4.1.1 Research Strategy – the Case Study
Referring to the methods discussed above in conjunction with the aims of this research, it was
found that a qualitative approach would be suitable to collect rich and detailed data (Ritchie
2014). A single case study was selected to help answer the RQ’s, in this case the ‘hows’ of the
phenomenon of ED and its integration to foster longevity in the T&C s industry. Utilizing case
study as research strategy aims at understanding the dynamics of events present within a setting,
which in this case aims at understanding the phenomenon of ED within the context of the T&C
industry with a focus on brand perspective (Eisenhardt 1989). Further, corroborated by Yin
(2014, p. 13), who highlights that a case study can be defined as an empirical enquire that aims
at investigating contemporary phenomenon in a real life context. The case study at hand enabled
for observation and understanding of the phenomenon, through rich empirical descriptions of
particular instances of the phenomenon, through semi-structured interviews, which were
supported by various data sources to reveal multiple facets of the phenomenon, which further
can be utilised to provide description and test theories (Eisenhardt & Graebner 2007; Rashid et
al. 2019; Seuring 2008). In addition, one of the main elements of case study research, after the
definition of framework and questions, is the unit of analysis or case (Yin 2014). In the research
for this thesis, the design follows a single case study to dive deep into the phenomenon of ED
within a fashion brand to foster longevity. The unit of analysis, which is the case to be studied,
which in this case is related to the phenomenon of ED and what challenges and enablers the
phenomenon encompasses, and ultimately how it can be integrated through innovative use of
DT. Thus, the single unit of analysis is the case. Moreover, supported by the unit of data
collection of the case study, which are the sources of empirical data. In this case semi-structured
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interviews and secondary data, which includes website articles, sustainability reports and
internal documents, were used (Yin 2014, pp. 101-102)
According to Yin (2014) a single case study can be seen as an adequate research methodology,
as it focuses on the analysis of a distinctive situation, that is contemporary in its nature, while
there is no possibility of behavioural manipulation for the research involved. Further, single
case study has the potential to contribute to knowledge and theory building (ibid.) A single
case-study can richly describe the existence of a phenomenon in this case ED (Eisenhardt &
Graebner 2007). The research process for case studies is similar to those used within other
empirical research strategies, which Stuart et al (2002, p. 420) proposed in a five-stage research
process (Figure 3), which was utilised when developing the research at hand.
Case studies have in recent years become a widespread research method both in social sciences
and business research. However, critique points needs to be considered, which includes that the
method lack in relation to being able to provide a basis for scientific generalisation (Dubois &
Gadde 2002; Yin 2016). However, instead of seeing this as an obstacle it can be approached as
an opportunity, where according to Dubois & Gadde (2002, p. 554) “learning from a particular
case, should be considered a strength not a weakness”. Further, case studies have been criticised
for its lack in rigor (Ellram 1996). This has been overcome through carrying out the research
using a structural approach and continuously documenting the process, which can be seen in
the research protocol (Appendix 1). Which allows for in-depth analysis of the contemporary
phenomenon of ED (Seuring 2008). For this research an exploratory approach was chosen to
be the most relevant as the research relates to gaining in-depth understanding of a fairly
unknown phenomenon (Ellram 1996). Through the exploratory approach explanation can be
built through the analysis of the case study, that can explain the phenomenon of ED and the
links with the theoretical lens of DT.
4.2 Scientific Reasoning
The study at hand aims to create an understanding of the case-company’s approach to ED to
initiate a deeper understanding of the phenomenon in relation to longevity. As mentioned prior,
the literature within ED and longevity recognises that DT can be utilised to foster innovation
within the field to overcome some of the challenges that the T&C industry is facing (Chapman
2015; Norman 2004; Simonsen 2014). ED has been researched by scholars and has been
deemed an important aspect to mitigate premature garment disposal, however scholars identify
STAGE 1 Research Question
STAGE 2 Instrument
Development
STAGE 3 Data
Gathering
STAGE 4 Data
Analysis
STAGE 5 Dissemination
Figure 3 – The five-stage research process model adapted from Stuart et al. (2002)
- 29 -
the need to further investigate the topic from a different perspective than the consumer-based
perspective (Connor-Crabb 2017; Fletcher 2015a; Mugge et al. 2005; Niinimäki & Koskinen
2015). This shows that gaps in literature is evident and there is a need for more research
focusing on ED from a brand perspective to make it a feasible solution for the T&C industry.
The existing theoretical approaches within DT, were discovered to offer a foundation that could
be deemed useful for the context of this study.
Given the aforementioned information within the topic, and keeping in mind the purpose of the
study, which is to further explore ED; the research design will take on an abductive approach.
Within abduction strategy lies the aim of exploring and understanding a phenomenon through
the lens of actors (Rashid et al. 2019), while it involves modifying the logic of general theory
in order to reconcile with contextual characteristics (Yin 2014). Abduction, unlike induction,
accepts existing theory, which can help improve the theoretical strength of case analysis, as
well as utilising a more flexible approach which enables for deeper knowledge building (Dubois
& Gadde 2002).
Due to the complexity of the phenomenon of ED, an abductive approach was deemed to be
specifically suitable for the case study compared to other approaches. In congruence with the
exploratory nature of the research, the abductive approach aimed at obtaining rich and detailed
data. That allowed for exploration of the phenomenon, where participants provided their
knowledge on the topic which help identify and explain themes and patterns within the research
(Flick et al. 2004).
To ensure better quality within a qualitative study, process documentation and triangulation
was included (Mayring 2002). Bryman and Bell (2011) explains that a qualitative method has
a focus on interpretation and tries to understand the world through the eyes of other actors. This
therefore shows that a qualitative method was suitable for this thesis, as it aims to understand
ED from a brand perspective and therefore be supportive in discovering different aspects of the
phenomenon to gain new insights.
4.3 Data Collection
For this study, both secondary and primary data was collected in connection to the case study.
Often in case study research, several data collection methods are employed or used in
combination. Utilizing at least two separate sources to collect data allows for triangulation
(Yin 2014) and can be applied to the study “to add rigor, breadth, complexity, richness and
depth to the study”(Rashid et al. 2019, p. 6). This section will describe the different applied
data collection techniques.
4.3.1 Sampling method and case selection
An essential aspect to all case studies, is the case selection and sampling method. Within data
collection the first stage is determining the appropriate participants, who can contribute to the
case study. To ensure the quality and insightfulness in regard to the findings for this study. A
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purposive sample method was applied. Instead of selecting the sample by random, the purposive
sample helps ensure that respondents can contribute to the study with their knowledge on the
topic, that thereby gives insights in relation to answering the research questions (Bryman &
Bell 2011). This further means that the sampling provides respondents, who are suitable for
illuminating and extending on the knowledge within the field, to gain new perspective, which
can help achieve a valued representativeness and precision in regard to the topic. (Eisenhardt
& Graebner 2007). After reviewing the different actors, a selection was made in regard to the
most relevant and suitable actor for extending the knowledge on ED from a brand perspective.
The first contact was established with the selected case company, where it was discussed, what
departments would be of most interest in relation to answering the research questions. For this
research the sustainability, quality, design and communications department proved to be most
suitable in relation to providing rich data.
4.3.2 The case-company
The brand that was utilised for the study, is a Swedish company, that was launched in 2017,
with a design studio and head office located in Stockholm. The brand has 200 employees
working in the head office including designers, architects, chefs, buyers, patternmakers,
production team, garment technologists, marketeers and graphic designers, and can be classified
as an SME. The brand was founded with a mission to make good and sustainable choices simple
and influence a positive change on the industry. The foundation of the company is built upon
longevity and all the products are designed with long life in mind, where consumers can cherish
and love the products and build attachment, thus making the brand relevant for this case study.
The company offers a broad range of products including fashion items for men, women & kids,
a broad assortment of home products as well as a vegetarian café, which tries to inspire people
to live a more sustainable lifestyle. According to the company designing for a longer life, as
well as advancing in the use of responsible and ethical produced materials are among the main
goals for the brand. Their mission is to democratise high quality in products and promote
sustainability in everyday design, while building long-lasting relationships with their
surrounding community. The case-company was a suitable choice for this research as they have
a lot of emphasis on designing for longevity, which means that they’ve started integrating
aspects of emotional durability into their business, and therefore were a fitting choice in relation
to highlighting challenges and enablers for emotional durability. Further the design processes
within the company shows DT processes which thereby allows for unravelling data surrounding
the theme of DT and how these approaches can be used to ensure innovation and the integration
of new processes to create a change in the industry.
4.3.3 Primary Data
Primary data is data which is collected directly by the researcher using original sources, which
is aimed specifically at the research at hand (Bryman & Bell 2011). In relation to case study
research, literature has identified three possible methods of collecting primary data: surveys,
observations and interviews (Blatter & Haverland 2012). In the research at hand the data
collection included semi-structured interviews, which according to Yin (2014), is among one
- 31 -
of the most important sources of case study evidence. The current pandemic made observations
impossible as the participants were working from home, which meant that qualitative interviews
were chosen to learn about the different aspects of integrating ED from a brand perspective. As
well as further extend the different views, beliefs and motivations regarding the topic and its
feasibility in integration within the T&C industry utilising DT. In accordance with the
explorative characteristics within the study and the abductive approach. Semi-structured
interviews were deemed appropriate as it offers a guiding structure of the topics connected to
the literature review and the theoretical framework, which thereby ensures that the interview
guide was aligned with the aim of the research, while offering some flexibility and freedom
(Bryman & Bell 2011). Utilising semi-structured interviews allowed the researcher to gain a
rich and detailed set of data (Eisenhardt & Graebner 2007). According to Kvale and Brinkmann
(2018), it’s important for the interviewer to have a foundational knowledge regarding the field
of research as it allows for qualified follow-up questions. Prior to the interviews an extensive
literature review was done on the field of ED and DT, as well as collecting secondary data on
the case company, which provided a foundational knowledge base for the development of a
detailed interview guide.
Primary data was collected through semi-structured interviews with employees from the case-
company. The interviews were conducted one by one, with the focus on understanding how ED
was perceived and utilised within different departments, and how innovative thought process
could be created through the tools within design-thinking including collaboration, co-creation
and a human centred approach. Therefore, different departments within the case company were
contacted to ensure different perspectives and understandings, and how they influence each
other. A total number of four interviews were conducted over a three-week period as shown in
Table 4. The interview guide was sent to the participants prior to the actual interview, to allow
the participants to prepare more detailed answers. Further the consent form was provided and
agreed on in advance to ensure anonymity and reduce uncertainties of sharing information and
instead increase the confidence of the trustworthiness and limit the possibility of response bias
(Kvale & Brinkmann 2009). The interviews lasted between 35-70 minutes. The interviews were
conducted using video conference tools including zoom and Microsoft teams, as the pandemic
didn’t allow for face-to-face interviews. All the interviews were recorded with the consent from
all participants, and following the interview the audio data was transcribed, where personal data
was anonymised. The transcripts were sent to the respondents for review and approval.
A funnel approach was taken, where more general questions was the starting point progressing
into more specific ones (Brinkmann & Kvale 2018). The semi-structured character that was
utilised for the interview, allowed to better define the concepts to be studied and allowed to
diverge to discover or elaborate on information which may not have been thought of prior to
the interview. The semi-structured nature of the interviews, allowed for follow up and probing
questions to allow for elaboration of answers, however these questions were not presented in
the interview guide, but shown later in the transcriptions (Bryman & Bell 2011). The literature
review provided knowledge on ED for longevity and by utilising a semi-structured format it
allowed for a more open-minded approach, where the participants could share their insights on
how ED can be used in practice. The theoretical framework supported this an allowed for some
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overarching themes to be investigated within the interview guide. As ED is an emerging
research field and DT hasn’t been adopted broadly within T&C, the semi-structuredness
allowed for more flexibility, while having a guiding set of questions. To ensure that the
questions were unbiased, objectively and open; a focus was put on “how” questions. It’s been
explained that “how” questions are more fruitful compared to “why” questions, as they invite
respondents to discuss specific conditions or circumstances in detail (Kvale & Brinkmann
2009). “Why” questions were avoided as they have a tendency to be followed by an overly
intellectualised or simplified answer rather than providing a rich and descriptive narrative.
Further “why” questions can be intimidating for respondents as they can pressure respondents
to provide socially acceptable answers (Bryman & Bell 2011). Furthermore, leading question
were avoided, as the aim was to get rich, detailed data (Brinkmann & Kvale 2018). See
Appendix 1 for the full interview guide.
Table 4 – Overview of Participants and their role within the company
PARTICIPANT ROLE DATE DURATION YEARS AT
BRAND
P1 Head of Sustainability 07.04.2021 38min 42 sec 5 years
P2 Copy Writer 07.04.2021 1h 09min 15sec 3 years
P3 Quality Coordinator 16.04.2021 50min 47 sec 3 years
P4 Senior Designer 21.04.2021 36min 59 sec 3 years
4.3.4 Secondary Data
In extension to the semi-structured interviews, which serve as primary data, secondary data was
gathered relating to the case-study company. This decision was made to be able to compare the
findings from the interviews to other sources, and thereby being able to place the findings in a
more general context (Flick et al. 2004). In addition Yin (2014) states that collecting data from
multiple sources allows for triangulation of the data, which can further be seen as a strategy to
add rigor, breadth, complexity, richness and depth to the study (Flick et al. 2004). Triangulation
can help address the potential problem of construct validity, as multiple sources of evidence
can provide multiple measures of the same phenomenon (Yin 2014). Furthermore, collecting
and pre-analysing the data served as preparation to gain knowledge prior to the interview. This
thereby established knowledge for the research about the organisational context prior to the
interviews, which then strengthened the credibility of the interviewer (Kvale & Brinkmann
2009). By including secondary data the research ensured that the feasibility and breadth of the
research increased (Bryman & Bell 2011). The secondary data included reports such as
sustainability reports that were publicly available on the website, as well as articles published
on the website on topics including: longevity, durability, design processes, collaboration. This
was further supported by internal documents which was provided by the quality coordinator.
The internal documents provided insight on different aspects that supported what was said in
the interviews, where a big focus was on care and costumer knowledge building to support
longevity. Table 5 presents an overview of the secondary data compiled through this study.
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Table 5 – Overview of Secondary data collected
NO. TITLE DESCRIPTION OF CONTENT DOCUMENT
TYPE
D1 Sustainability Report
2019
Provides insight on the sustainability efforts that the company
is engaging with, gives a good overview of their position
regarding longevity.
Company
Report
D2 Sustainability Report
2018
Reporting on the current environmental and social
performance in relation to sustainability aspects. Gives
insight to the sustainability priorities within the company
Company
Report
D3 Facts Materials,
Suppliers & Longevity
The company has a section on their website dedicated to
sustainability related aspects, where the importance of
materials, suppliers and longevity is described
Case-Company
Website
D4 News article on the
impact of responsible
design
An article that describes the impact of responsible design,
giving insight on using resources responsibly. Making
deliberate choices in the design process that facilitate. A
change. Focusing on functionality and seasonless styles, with
longevity in mind.
Case-Company
Website
D5 News article on
responsibility for
impact
An article that highlights the current impact of the fashion
industry. And gives insight about making a change through
collaboration, pilot testing and ensuring quality. While
setting clear objectives for the future.
Case-Company
Website
D6 News article on store
designs
An article that describes the store designs, and how the
interior is designed with longevity in mind, using durable
products and timeless design. Where a lot of research has
gone into perfecting the store design.
Case-Company
Website
D7 News article on the
work that goes into the
products
An article on the design process, how continuous feedback
allows for iterative refinement, to ensure the best possible
products season after season
Case-Company
Website
D8 News article on co-
creation
An article that describes how the company uses co-creation
with suppliers, to facilitate better product development, while
engaging with relationship building
Case-Company
Website
D9 Sustainability Report
2020
The latest sustainability report, giving insight on the current
sustainability efforts within the company. Gives insight on
longevity and its approach to creating a change.
Company
Report
D10 Repair & mending
denim
An internal document on how to inspire customers to repair
and mend their denim. Gives insight in the process of
repairing and how it can establish connection
Internal
Document
D11 Care and cleaning
training material
A training guide on different care and cleaning products
available in store. To give sales assistant the right knowledge
to ensure customers can take care of the products
Internal
Document
D12 Denim information A document with information regarding denim. Including
information about selvedge denim and the different
characteristics of denim. It gives insight on how to break in
denim to ensure gracefully ageing
Internal
Document
D13 Care training material A training guide for the employees to gain insight in how
different materials can be cared for to allow for the
information to be passed on to customers to ensure
knowledge on care
Internal
Document
D14 3-1 series A document on a jacket series, which gives insight to modular
garments which can be mixed and matched according to style.
Offering the possibility to build a jacket which has a
detachable lining and can be combined.
Internal
Document
D15 Sustainability
introduction training
A training for all new employees covering the most important
aspects of sustainability and quality within the company. Internal
Document
D16 Sustainability focus Highlighting the three core sustainability focuses within the
company: sustainable materials, prolonged lifespan and
transparency
Internal
Document
D17 Down and feather care A document giving insight on how to care for down and
feather products. As it was highlighted by the quality Internal
Document
- 34 -
coordinator that down and feathers were one of the product
categories that costumers struggle
d with
D18 Denim care A document providing all employees with information
regarding denim care and how to ensure costumers are
provided with knowledge on how to care for denim to prolong
the life of garments
Internal
Document
D19 Care for viscose
garments
Viscose was highlighted as a product group where customers
are unaware of its characteristics and how to care for them,
which is why a document had been developed to ensure
information is passed on
Internal
Document
D20 Wash care for
naturally dyed
products
A document providing information on how to care for
naturally dyed product. To create less chemical output natural
dyes have been introduced but require different care
instruction.
Internal
Document
D21 Care for wood
products
A document on how to prolong the life of wood products,
giving customers insight on the different ways to care for the
products to ensure a longer lifetime
Internal
Document
D22 How to polish silver
and solid brass
An internal document providing information on how to care
for silver and brass items, as they require specific care to
ensure a long life
Internal
Document
D23 Jewellery care guide A document providing information to the employees on how
to ensure the best way to store jewellery. The care guide gives
insight on how to take care of the products
Internal
Document
D24 Leather garments care The leather care document provides information regarding
the sturdy and durable material and how to ensure that leather
age with beauty. Leather has the potential to last for a very
long time of the right care is taken
Internal
Document
D25 Knit care Document providing the employees with extensive
information regarding knitted products, highlighting that
most knits rarely needing washing but can be air dried to
prevent too much washing
Internal
Document
D26 Leather shoes care A document on the care of shoes, as a lot of the company’s
shoes have leather soles, they need to be provided with
certain care to prolong their life. The document provides
employee with information to pass on to customers
Internal
Document
D27 Linen care A document providing information on linen. As linen is one
of the materials that gets better with age, it’s important to
ensure that customers are aware of how it needs to be cared
for.
Internal
Document
*To ensure the confidentiality of the participating respondent and
the case-company, URLs are not disclosed in the table, but is
available in an encrypted case study database.
4.4 Data Analysis
In case study research, analysis of the data is often neglected, where researchers fails to develop
an analytical strategy, as it’s been deemed complex to analyse case study data (Yin 2014).
However, several methods for analysis of case study research have been developed to ease the
complications. As previously mentioned, this study follows a qualitative analysis for both
primary and secondary data. Utilising iterative processing which has been deemed an important
viewpoint, to examine data during the whole process (Bryman & Bell 2011). The study
embraced a manual thematic analysis, where a coding frame was used to organise both primary
and secondary data. As data analysis had been found to be one of the most complex phases of
qualitative research (Thorne 2000), a lot of time was set aside for the task, to be able for the
researcher to spend as much time as possible with the data, to get an immersive experience and
gain the most detailed understanding of the data possible (Coffey & Atkinson 1996).
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The primary data included transcripts of the semi-structured interviews, which is a time-
consuming process, but provides benefit in the quality of the research. As it helps to correct
natural limitations of memory, while it allows for a more in detail examination of what people
said, as well as the possibility to repeatedly go through the data (Bryman & Bell 2011). By
transcribing the interviews in verbatim, it enabled for more confidence in the data collection.
The transcripts were approved by all respondents, where a thematic analysis followed. This
method has been recognised as a descriptive method, that is appropriate for qualitative research,
while being able to identify and analyse pattern within the data, to understand similarities as
well as different perspectives within the data (Braun & Clarke 2006; Nowell et al. 2017). The
process of thematic analysis was well documented, and a consistent approach was followed, to
address the critique against the method (Nowell et al. 2017). In this thesis the thematic analysis
was guided by an approach, which was presented in thematic analysis: Striving to meet the
trustworthiness criteria by Nowell et al. (2017), that has been proposed by Braun and Clarke
(2006), which includes six phases:
Table 6 – Six phases of thematic analysis, adapted from (Nowell et al. 2017)
Phase 1: Familiarising
yourself with the data
Phase 2: Generating initial
codes
Phase 3: Searching for
themes
Phase 4: Reviewing the
themes
Phase 5: Defining and
naming the themes
Phase 6: Producing the report
Thematic coding was used for the interview transcripts and the secondary documents, where it
was directed by the aspects of DT in connection with ED as discussed in the previous chapter.
The transcripts and secondary documents were compiled in a word document, where the first
set of notes were added to start understanding patterns and see similarities and initial codes.
Significant parts of the text were highlighted as the text was re-read. The next step involved
adding preliminary codes into the transcript and document margins. Preliminary themes were
gathered from the existing literature, which was utilised in the coding of the interviews and
supporting documents these included:
o Current fashion
system
o Economic
situation
o Lack of consumer
knowledge
o Planned obsolescence
o Stimulation
attachment
o Physical
durability
o Fit o Transparency &
traceability
o Story telling o building
narrative
o Graceful ageing o Product service
systems
o Modular design o Customisation o Personalisation o Repair and alteration
Further the theoretical framework provided key concepts that were used in the coding process.
The theoretical framework helped define some of the initial codes to use in relation to
understanding integration possibilities within emotional durability, these included:
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o Problem
solving
o Human
centeredness
o Innovation o Design as a starting
point
o Brainstorm o Iteration o Feedback loops o Knowledge sharing
o Collaboration o Creativity o Pilot testing o Build partnerships
These themes all became evident during the analysis of the gathered data and helped in refining
the final themes. In the process of analysing the data the researcher utilised iterative cycles
going through the data again and again to gain as much detail as possible and encounter various
patterns within the data, and thereby develop the codes as much as possible (Ritchie 2014).
The preliminary coding resulted in 1145 rows of codes, across both transcripts and documents.
These rows of codes were then entered into an excel worksheet with supporting code keywords,
to establish and identify overlapping codes and those that lacked a focus, the codes were colour-
coded to gain insight in the most important ones (Appendix- 74 -1). The codes were then
collated into hierarchical categories, which later became the preliminary themes (Saldaña
2013). Categories and themes were then further evaluated following an iterative process to
ensure the best possible codes and themes with good supporting quotes and example of this can
be seen in Table 7. The final iteration of codes that emerged from the data analysis resulted in
10 themes which had a total of 26 sub-themes, the themes were divided into the categories of
challenges, enablers and integration of ED focusing on the different phases of DT. The final
themes that emerged from the data are further explained in chapters 5.1-5.3.
Table 7 – Coding example for challenges
RQ Main Theme Sub-Theme Initial code Quote example
Current
Fashion Cycle
Influx of new “you’re producing newness
constantly” P3
1 Challenges Lack of time ”Today, when working with
these kinds of big companies,
it’s mass production, it’s lack
of time. The product doesn’t get
enough love. There may not be
enough wear- and strength tests
of the products” P4
Economic
situation
“We need new ways how we
can produce fewer products but
gain money. For example,
gaining money through
mending products in store, so
we can earn money in a
different way” P4
Consumer
Mindset
Lack of
knowledge
“I see so many people who are
walking with shoes, that need to
have the soles changed” P2
Disposable
mindset
“It’s very hard for companies
who are equal, with mass
- 37 -
production, where the
customers know that if they buy
garments from that company,
that they won’t last long,
causing them to treat them
differently” P4
The secondary data that was collected through searching the case company website and gaining
access to internal document provided by the company after the interview. The documents were
utilised to strengthen the findings of the semi-structured interviews (Bryman & Bell 2011).
Thus, the discoveries and concepts emerging from the secondary data helped elaborate on the
primary data rather than studying the secondary data separately. The activities of reducing data,
displaying data and later drawing conclusion and verification, is a favourable approach within
abductive research (Bryman & Bell 2011).
As discussed previously the interview data was triangulated with the data from the secondary
data. The data from the interviews were triangulated by comparing information to complement
and verify the data accumulated from the interviews. Both the information that was publicly
available as well as the internal documents enabled to support the findings from the interviews,
which converged the results and ensured that what was said in the interviews was reinforced by
data coming from supplementary documents. Using multiple sources of evidence thereby
allowed for making more accurate and convincing conclusions and thus strengthening the
research. Thereby, being able to develop a more comprehensive understanding of the
phenomenon (Carter et al. 2014; Yin 2014).
4.5 Research Quality
To secure the high quality of the research. The research process was followed according to
suitable methodological recommendation within the reviewed literature. While the chosen
research design was selected in accordance with its ability to answer the research questions
within the given timeframe.
The three prominent criteria for the evaluation of the quality of a social research include:
reliability, replication and validity (Bryman & Bell 2011). The research quality was ensured
through the use of multiple sources, where both semi-structured interview transcripts, reports,
website articles, internal documents including guides and information sheets were used, to
provide multiple sources of evidence (Yin 2014). A single case was utilised, and to ensure the
research quality, a focus was on interviewing respondents from different departments, to gain
broad, in-depth and varied insights. Further the respondents were selected under careful
consideration to get the best possible data, thus improving the quality of the research. The most
prominent data, was acquired through semi-structured interviews, which Kvale and Brinkman
(2018) explains that the quality of interviews, depends on the interviewer knowledge and
craftmanship. In this case the author’s prior knowledge within the topic was strengthened
through the presented literature review and immersive understanding of secondary data, that
contributed to the quality of the research. According to Eisenhardt (1989) ensuring validity and
- 38 -
reliability of research, includes a thorough and transparent presentation of the process, which
means that better constructs can be reached.
4.5.1 Construct Validity
Construct validity can be challenging in relation to case studies, however tactics were utilised
in this research to overcome these obstacles and thereby increase construct validity (Yin 2014).
This included using multiple sources of evidence, in this case using both interviews with
respondents from various departments, published secondary data from the case company’s
website as well as internal documents. This data was then triangulated to converge information
from different sources, which further help strengthen the construct validity (Blatter &
Haverland 2012; Ellram 1996; Seuring 2008). To enhance the credibility of the results of the
interviews, the respondents were asked to review the transcripts and give feedback. The
construct validity was further improved, by providing a logical and clear flow throughout the
report. This included a detailed in-depth literature review to set the scene for the study, and a
detailed description of the methodology, to ensure an overview and explanation of the choices
made within the study. The logic of the report was discussed in detail at multiple times with the
supervisor assigned as well as peers, who provided insightful written feedback, which helped
ensure a logical flow of the research.
4.5.2 Internal Validity
Internal validity is concerned with the degree of confidence that the causal relationship that is
being tested is trustworthy and not being influenced by other factors or variables (Bryman &
Bell 2011; Yin 2016). However, this research quality is not applicable to exploratory studies,
which this study is. The underlying concerns of internal validity could still be addressed. For
example, the research at hand uses triangulation, that through iterative process of analysing the
same data set to validate the findings and reach saturation for a suitable thematic analysis.
Furthermore, receiving feedback on the transcripts enhanced the internal validity (Bryman &
Bell 2011; Chapman 2016; Yin 2014)
4.5.3 External Validity
External validity is related to defining the domain to which a study’s findings can be generalised
(Yin 2014), however the purpose and aim for this research had qualitative interest, which means
that it was not possible nor desirable to establish a generalisation from the findings, but rather
explain the findings in a specific research setting. The reliability of the data guaranteed through
a clearly chosen sample, who could provide rich and detailed information on the phenomenon
of ED. The thesis intends to generate a deeper understanding of ED and how DT can help
overcome some of the challenges within the integration of ED.
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4.5.4 Reliability
Reliability evolves around demonstrating that the operations of the study, for example the data
collection procedures can be repeated with the same result (Yin 2014). The goal within
reliability is therefore to minimise error and bias in the study (Bryman & Bell 2011). In relation
to the case study a research protocol (Appendix 1) was followed, that ensured continuous
documentation of steps and a transparent process (Yin 2014). Reliability within this study was
achieved by including detailed descriptions of the steps taken, including the decisions made to
support the study. The methodology chapter enables the reader to gain insight in the procedure,
the interview guide that was used for primary data collection is available in the appendix to
ensure transparency of the process. A case study data base was used to organise the data
collection, which included the approved transcripts, secondary documentary data, coding
schemes and continuous notes. Further by utilising triangulation to verify patterns and
categories helped to increase reliability and rigor of the study (Rashid et al. 2019). Throughout
the research, the author participated in supervision and peer review seminars, which
additionally enabled for quality check of the study (Yin 2014)
4.5.5 Ethical Considerations
The significance of research ethics is something which shouldn’t be missed and has been
recognised in recent years with the four pillars of ethical research, which includes: autonomy,
beneficence, non-maleficence and justice (Townsend et al. 2010). In addition, Bryman and Bell
(2011) argues that ethical issues should not be ignored and should be considered an important
part in doing research. The research was therefore conducted with ethical considerations in
mind at all times, especially in the interview process. Within the interview process informed
consent is among one of the key points of ethical consideration (Kvale & Brinkmann 2009). To
ensure informed consent, a consent form (Appendix 1) was developed and provided to all
participant, as well as the opportunity to ask questions about the study. All the participants were
informed that they were able to withdraw at any point of the study without explanation. It was
deemed appropriate to anonymise the involved participants, and codes were used to replace
participants names in the case study. To further respect the ethical principles of the study, the
participants were made aware of the anonymity of the findings, had the possibility to review
the study and deliver feedback to confirm transcribed data. The interviews were recorded with
permission by the respondents both in writing and verbally prior to the interview, and the
respondents were informed that the recording would be deleted once the transcripts had been
approved by the respondents.
- 40 -
5 Findings
This chapter will present the main findings that have emerged from the qualitative coding of
the case study, that investigates the phenomenon of ED using DT as the theoretical lens. The
findings of the conducted interviews and secondary documents are presented and explained.
Table 8-10 provides the final overview of the identified themes and subthemes. The findings
have been divided to match the research questions and are therefore divided into challenges
and enablers for ED and integration of ED.
5.1 Challenges
In order to integrate ED in products from a brand perspective and thereby ensure prolonged
product attachment to facilitate longevity. It’s necessary to understand the challenges that come
with the phenomenon which can act as a hinderance. The challenges that emerged from the
semi-structured interviews and supporting documents, can be found in Table 8, where they have
been divided into overall challenges and the reasons, a glossary for the sub-themes can further
be found in Appendix 3.
5.1.1 Current Fashion Cycle
In the investigation of challenges for ED the current fashion cycle became a strong focus point
during the semi-structured interviews. Where the continuous influx of new was discussed, the
lack of time due to the fast pace as well as the economic dependency on selling products. The
participant shared insight on the fast fashion model being the dominating model, where high
volumes of product are sold at low prices to generate a profit. This linear model was discussed
as an unsustainable way of doing business in relation to social and environmental issues. P4
voiced an opinion “also the fashion industry, it has a certain system, and it hasn’t been renewed
in a long time” [1], stating that there is a need for renewal and a radical change in the business.
The throwaway culture was mentioned in the supporting documents, focusing on understanding
the consequences of this business model to spark new innovation and ways to radically change
the industry. Where ED can be regarded as a mediator strategy to extend product life spans.
Delving deeper into the challenges, it became apparent that the constant influx of new acts as
an obstacle to ED. The participants talked about the fashion industry being dictated by trends
and news, both in regard to product availability, but also in regard to continuous change of
interior in stores which was explained in article D6 “which is a common way for many brands
to signal renewal” [2]. The influx of new happens when new products that have a superior
function, performance or look, causing the current products to become outdated. P4 provided
insights from a designer perspective stating that “it’s specially supposed to be about newness
and new ideas” [3] supported by P3 explaining “you’re producing newness constantly” [4]. The
influx of new is dominated by fast paced trends, which can act as a hinderance to ED, as the
products can feel outdated quickly. However, the participants also voiced opinion that trends
can enable consumers to discover their personal style, giving the products the possibility to
outlive the trends, if the consumer develops a personal attachment with the product.
- 41 -
Further, the speed of the current system is another factor, which acts as a challenge to ED. To
be able to develop innovative and high-quality products and services iterative testing and
feedback is required. Being able to gather data and knowledge to understand the consumers is
key, to be able to define products that meet the needs of the consumers. Ensuring the quality of
the garment is also essential to make sure that garments don’t fail prematurely. P3 explained
that a lot of quality measures have been set in place to ensure good quality, however as the
fashion industry is very global it can be difficult to implement these measures across all
suppliers, which can result in products that are produced to fast. P4 explained:
Today when working with these kinds of big companies, it’s mass production, it’s lack
of time. The product doesn’t get enough love. There may not be enough wear- and
strength tests of the products.[5]
Having the time to do wear- and strength tests also enables the designers to gain understanding
of the garment’s potential lifetime, further it enables to establish Key Performance Indicators
(KPI) for the products, so that it can be measured continuously, and the results can help improve
the products. The participants shared that lack of time can cause limited testing, and since ED
is more difficult to measure, as it’s more subjective, less time may be dedicated to ED.
The semi-structured interviews shone light on the need for a change within the current
economy, to enable the success of ED, as the current system hugely relies upon material
resource throughput to generate profit. This calls for a transition in the society where services
should be favoured rather than new products. Fashion companies are in a situation where new
ways are needed, meaning that they shouldn’t be dependent on the fast pace of resource
throughput to be economically viable, otherwise ED and product life extension will never be
able to flourish, P4 explained:
We need new ways how we can produce fewer products but gain money. For example,
gaining money through mending products in store, so we can earn money in a different
way. [6]
5.1.2 Consumer Mindset
The consumer mindset acts as a challenge to ED, but according to the participants there’s hope
for optimism within the next generation, who are questioning the current fashion system and
demanding more sustainable solutions. However, with the current system consumers have
gotten accustomed to the constant influx of new products, where trends are dictating and
influencing an everchanging wardrobe. Furthermore, it was elaborated that, consumers have
forgotten the value of craftmanship such as tailors and shoemakers, P2 elaborated “I see so
many people who are walking with shoes that need to be resoled” [7]. The fast system has
changed the mindset of consumers, where products are replaced rather than being repaired or
mended.
- 42 -
The semi-structured interviews highlighted that, consumers have lost the know-how on taking
care of garments, including having the knowledge which can ensure prolonged lifetimes.
Furthermore, the participants voiced that ED was a new phenomenon, which requires more
work in relation to nudging consumers in the direction of retaining their products for longer. P3
elaborated on the issues regarding lack in consumer know-how in care, which can cause
premature garment failure:
We’ve been pointing out the biggest areas, where we found the biggest customer
complaints. And then I put together with our production teams, care-instructions, on how
to take care of those garments [8].
The participants indicated that lack of knowledge has become a symptom of the fast fashion
system, where the norm is to buy new when things break, rather than repairing and mending.
It was further discovered that the pace of the T&C industry has made fashion items disposables,
this has been influenced a lot by the fashion system. P1 explained “[…]with other challenges
being the mindset, the mindset of not keeping things” [9]. Changing the mindset of consumers
requires, that they are rewarded for their actions, in the case company’s sustainability report
from 2018 D2 it was additionally stated that: “[…] we introduce sustainable solutions across
the lifecycle of the products that are both convenient and rewarding for customers” [10]. This
shows the need for prolonging life span needs to be convenient and rewarding for customers.
P4 stated:
It’s very hard for companies who are equal, with mass production, where the customers
know that if they buy garments from that company, that they won’t last long, causing
them to treat them differently” [11].
This explains the need for customers to think about products in a different way and engage with
the products to enable ED.
5.1.3 Individuality
People are individual and have individual style and taste, which means that fostering ED may
require different strategies to cater to individual consumers. Individual style can be achieved
through uniqueness, which can be difficult in a system where most products are mass-produced.
P2 elaborated on costumers being different sizes, emphasising on height and different body
shapes as well as having different preferences in style. This can act as a hinderance to ED as
this also creates subjectivity within the consumers
The participants voiced their concerns about stimulating product attachment with costumers
being individual and having different emotions P3 explained “One customer might think in one
way and another in another way, so emotional feeling can vary from person to person and that
can be a challenge” [12]. In the reviewed interview data, it emerged that costumers are
ultimately the ones who give the product meaning and thereby develops a level of attachment.
The participants also voiced their opinions that stimulating product attachment also can be
influenced by cultural and social factors, which can act as an obstacle for ED.
- 43 -
Table 8 – Challenges for ED
ED Challenges Reasons
Current fashion cycle Influx of new
Lack of time
Economic situation
Consumer mindset Lack of knowledge
Disposable mindset
Individuality Stimulating product attachment
5.2 Enablers
Ensuring sustainable business practices at fashion organisations require a range of skills and
competencies which needs to be considered. The semi-structured interviews provided insights
in enablers and approaches to ED. These enablers are important to create a foundation for ED.
The enablers and facilitators can be seen in Table 9
5.2.1 Physical durability
The notion that PD is a cornerstone in relation to developing ED became apparent when
examining the data of the case study, where PD quickly became an important enabler. The
participants all elaborated on the importance of PD in garments in relation to developing an
emotional attachment. P3 explained that garment failure is often the reason for customers
returning or discarding their products. Customer claims are translated into actions that can
refine product quality and limit future failure. The semi-structured interviews further elaborated
that longer lasting product can contribute to a shift in the fashion system, where the physical
properties ensures that products can stand the test of time. The participants all agreed that
addressing PD is inherent and a logical step to increasing longevity, where construction
methods, seam strength and materials can influence this. P1 elaborated “basically the first step
is physical durability, but that’s kind of taken for granted” [13]
Quality is an essential aspect within physical durability. The participants elaborated on the
importance of quality when introducing new products. Details from the semi-structured
interviews and supporting documents showed that by focusing on improved quality the
utilisation period with the consumer can be prolonged. The supporting documents elaborated
on refinement of products to ensure the best possible products, and how feedback from
customers has enabled for iterative processes to improve product to ensure the foundation for a
long lifetime. In the article D6 by the case-company on impact it was elaborated that: “we
always have to consider the quality and desirability of the products we’re making” [14]. All the
participants elaborated on the use of sustainable processes and having a goal of sourcing more
sustainable materials, but they emphasised that sustainable materials such a recycled polyester
doesn’t always ensure the same quality as virgin polyester, which is important to consider.
- 44 -
Changing materials to more sustainable materials has required more focus and innovation to
secure the quality of sustainably sourced materials, to ensure that they meet the quality
standards. P3 explained:
We have to start with the base, which is materials, what materials are we choosing for the
collection, we’ve also recently published our new quality standards, so we are following
the same quality requirements for all premium products [15]
This is further corroborated in the 2020 sustainability report D9, where it’s elaborated that
“we are updating our groupwide quality and durability standards to connect them to our
circular design strategy” [16]. This shows that by combining durability and a circular
mindset the whole lifespan of a product is considered. The participants answer showed that
there was a big interest in circularity within the case company, which connects to physical
durability. Having physical durable garments enables for keeping them in use for longer
which is a base for the inner circular loops in circular economy. P1 explained “but if we take
the scope of keeping your garments and using it for a longer time, then that’s actually one of
the bases of circularity” [17]. Prolonging the lifespan through ensuring prolonged use can
include various elements including choosing more durable materials in the production phase
and creating a better understanding of the end use with the consumer. P3 elaborated on this
“even our production teams are looking into more the full chain of the end-to-end quality of
the product.” [18]
5.2.2 Fit
Fit was discussed as a main enabler for ED by all participants. The transcribed data showed that
fit was among one of the most frequent codes mentioned by the participants. P3 mentioned “fit
must be super perfect for me to love something otherwise I will not use it a lot” [19].
Furthermore, fit was mentioned as a frequent feedback from customers. When the brand was
founded co-creation methods were used to gain insight from potential customers on the core
products, P3 explained the feedback “and it was mostly about the fit. A lot of the feedback is
about the fit” [20]. P2 and P3 elaborated on fit, stating it as an essential aspect for product
attachment, as people will wear what looks good, and thereby have a potential to facilitate a
connection. This was further reiterated by P4, who stated that fit and functionality can be seen
as a key aspect in the design process in relation to establishing product attachment. In the news
article D7 on working on collections its further elaborated that “we put a lot of work into
perfecting the fit, feel and performance of our products” [21]. The theme of fit was reviewed,
and it was noted to be a big influence for building attachment. However, the participants voiced
their concern regarding fit due to individuality and varying sizes making it difficult cater to all
customers within the business model of mass production.
Within the enabler of fit, sizing, diversity & inclusion was discussed. Particularly P2 voiced an
opinion on the topic in relations to building a foundation for ED. Including sizing, diversity &
inclusions into products allows for customers to find products which fit. Including diversity and
inclusion in communication also allows for customers to reflect on different perspectives. P2
explained “Sizing and especially fit are not considered enough in fast fashion, I think. In the
- 45 -
end, you're going to wear what looks good on you, and fit plays a big role in that” [22]. The
values that are discussed in the sustainability reports, D1, D2 & D9 also emphasis on inclusion
and diversity in product design to ensure prolonged lifetime with the consumer. P4 explained
that from a design focus fit is very important as you don’t want the costumers to be restricted
in the garment and not feel restricted by the fit, thus ensuring that sizing is inclusive to create
comfortable garments for all body-types.
Participants referred to fit in relation to creating garments which costumers would feel
comfortable and confident in and therefore continuously wear them and thereby establishing a
connection with them. In internal document on repairing and mending D10 it was stated that
“if you invest in pieces that make you feel comfortable and confident and good about yourself,
you’ll want to take care of them and use them for as long as possible” [23]. The participants
highlighted that continuous wear is important in relation to establishing emotional attachment
with garments as it enabled for building a narrative around the garment, P2 elaborated:
“the more you wear something, the more attached you get to it and the more special and
unique it will become for you. If it doesn’t fit in a way that feels right for you, you won’t
give it such use, and it probably won’t stay in your wardrobe” [24].
Alteration was discussed in addition to fit. It was revealed that alteration opportunities within
garments have the potential to ensure better and customised fit. This can act as a building block
for ED and build connection between user and consumer. Within the case company some
alteration opportunities were explored, including in the childrenswear department, where an
elastic with buttons was integrated into the childrenswear to continuously alter size as the child
grow, thus enabling for continuous evolvement through the child’s growth. Further it was
elaborated that the men’s suiting pants had extra fabric in the hem to allow for alteration in
length. The supporting documents provided information regarding pilot projects on in-store
alterations within the adjacent brands belonging to the larger group. This provided information
that testing had been initiated to get feedback to monitor and evaluate the benefits of alteration.
P1 stated that alteration can be influenced in the design stage “I would say in the design, it can
be in other features of design such as the fact that it can be altered” [25]. The participants
however also highlighted that the current fast fashion system doesn’t always cater for alteration,
as it’s often cheaper to replace the garment with a new one.
5.2.3 Communication
Communication was a highlighted topic as an enabler for ED. The participants highlighted that
longevity and ED is not only conveyed through design processes but also supported by
underlying communication channels, such as the website, newsletters and social media. P4
accentuated that, consumers are demanding more information, where a lot of purchasing
decisions are made based on the information available. The information allows for consumers
to make informed choices according to the case company’s 2020 sustainability report D9. P1
highlighted “we had a lot of communication about each product and very much about its
history” [26]. Opening communication tools between consumers and brands also allows for
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continuous feedback to further monitor and evaluate products. P3 explained that surveys with
potential consumers were done prior to creating the brand to get understanding of their needs,
which enabled to contextualise and plan future activities. The participants agreed that enabling
ED could be facilitated through communication to build narratives together with the consumer.
During the semi-structured interviews, it became clear that communication for consumer
education was an important facilitator. The participants highlighted that educating consumers
on the products, gave potential for ED, both in sharing information about the products and
materials but also how to take care of the garments to ensure the best conditions for a long life.
P3 explained:
We have also had a lot of focus on care guides that go beyond care labels, to try and
inspire and help our customers to prolong the life of their garments by taking care of them
in the best way [27]
P3 further explained “So I think talking about it, and teaching the customer is super important
and needed” [28]. Sharing knowledge and information helps create a greater collective
knowledge. While sharing information is further connected with being honest which can help
generate trust between consumer and brand. In the case company’s 2020 sustainability report
D9 it’s explained that inspiring simple behavioural changes can reduce the environmental
impact, as well as increase the lifespan with consumer. This is further corroborated in the case
company’s 2019 sustainability report D1, where it was additionally stated that “Empowering
our customers to care for and use the products in a sustainable way” [29]. When consumer
connects with garments through care and maintenance, the consumers get empowered which
enables attachment. Further educating and promoting repairability can build trust and ensure a
good brand reputation. In the company’s internal documents D10 on education on repair, it is
further stated that “It may seem like an absurd idea that us individuals would help save the
planet by repairing our clothes, but I see it as a very hands-on way of dealing with climate
anxiety” [30].
It was further discovered that storytelling can act as a facilitator as it creates room for building
product narratives. In the reviewed documents it became apparent that the emphasis on time
and skilled craftmanship invested in the design and communication processes was highlighted
as a way to elevate value of the products and ensuring meaning with consumers. P4 also
mentioned limited editions has potential to be highlighted through storytelling, which reinforce
the feeling that an item cannot be replaced easily, which can help foster ED. Objects which
include experiences can carry stories and memories which can facilitate ED. P4 explained “a
lot of them are linked with memories and storytelling as well, by creating a world around the
products” [31].
Within communication lies transparency, which is one of the building blocks within the selected
case-company, where transparency has provided consumers with knowledge on sustainable
processes, crafts and time that goes into production as well as details on suppliers including
factory names. P1 provided insight on the efforts of transparency and explained that “it could
be the history of the product, how it’s made, giving as much information about our products as
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possible to kind of create this base for transparency” [32]. Thus, ensuring that customers can
make informed choices while connecting them to the story behind the products, which enables
the customer to align their values and shop more sustainably. Transparency further enables the
customer to feel empowered to facilitate product narratives and increase ED. Additionally
transparency was explained as a facilitator to drive change within the industry as it pushes
brands to focus on more sustainable initiatives and gain control of supply chains, moving away
from business as usual. Transparency offers the case company tools to provide their customers
with knowledge regarding the brand and products. This can further align them with their
sustainability standards, which is key to building long-term trust and thereby ensure future
success. In the case-company’s 2020 sustainability report D9 it was additionally stated that:
Transparency helps our customers understand the story behind our business and
products, helps us build relationships based on trust and accountability, and pushes us to
do better [33].
5.2.4 Approaches to ED
Several strategies to help facilitate ED was introduced in the literature review, but also became
apparent in the case study, as approaches to enable ED. The supporting documents elaborate on
ways to focus on prolonging life of product, but there is a need to accelerate the speed to
encourage faster change. As well as developing an open mindset that can explore new paths
and ideas through experimentation and testing. Looking into different approaches that can
satisfy customer needs, while bringing new experiences can give brands a better opportunity
for establishing bonds. The participants elaborated on approaches to empathise with costumers,
to explore perspectives, to gather knowledge, to ideate new methods and introduce ED. A
human-centred approach is necessary to enable ED, and this is elaborated on in the case
company’s 2019 sustainability report D1 “We’ll achieve this by placing our customers in the
centre and integrating sustainability into everything we do” [34].
Integrating services into their portfolio was actively discussed in the interviews. Services can
enable customers to modify, alter & redesign their products to make it possible to extend the
product life span. Customisation was discussed as potential service where P1 explained
“anything customised with initials or something like that, is an enabler for ED” [35].
Customisation allows for stimulating a sense of uniqueness which is a promising route for
deeper consumer satisfaction, while it allows for more feedback and better understanding of the
consumers through co-creation. In the case company’s 2020 sustainability report D9
experiences and services were further elaborated on through “we’re investing in experiences
and services to engage with customers in new ways and we invite them to be part of a circular
fashion system” [36]. Repair and rental systems were also mentioned, where repair offers
solutions to prolonging the life span, however the participants also mentioned the concern with
repair in relation to whether it would be economically viable for consumers rather than just
buying new pieces. In turn, services can help promote and normalise long-term use and thereby
substitute products with services. Thinking about services can postpone psychological
obsolescence, which gives the brands options to engage more with their costumers, while the
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customers can engage with an evolving product. In the case-company’s 2019 sustainability
report D1, it was additionally stated that “we must completely shift out product development
mindset and build products and services in new ways” [37].
Throughout the semi-structured interviews functionality was an emerging facilitator, that was
discussed in depth by all participants and in the supporting documents, as an approach to ensure
that product stay meaningful to the costumers. In the case-company’s sustainability fact sheet
D3, it’s further described “for our designs to be sustainable, we know we need to develop
products that will continue to be useful and meaningful for many years” [38]. Both P1 and P3
explained that having products that had several functions such as a jacket with a detachable
inner lining provided multiple use across several seasons. This can ensure that the product is
used more and thereby opens up for a narrative between the consumer and the products. P3
described that “It’s a lot about function and that the garments should last for a long time. It’s
something we’ve had in the DNA since the start” [39]. Elaborating on garments which has many
functions enables customers to change them and vary how they’re worn and thereby have
multifunctional purposes for increased wear. P4 elaborated that functionality was becoming
the focus point in the design phase, prior aesthetics had been the core focus, but thinking about
functionality within a product allows for a certain meaning to be given to a product. Having
multifunctional products also allows for consumers to limit their consumption and focus on few
versatile products.
Integrating approaches that focus on products which age gracefully and stand the test of time,
became an important conversation topic in the semi-structured interviews. Supporting evidence
also emerged from an article about impact on the case-companies website D5, where it was
explained:
If the garment isn’t beautiful enough or if it wears out quickly, then sustainable materials
and practices will not change anything. It needs to be something that our customers will
use and cherish for many years, otherwise it’s never going to be sustainable in the long
run. [40]
The internal documents further support this, where in the repair and mending document D10, it
additionally stated “you’ll also notice that clothes made from genuine materials actually get
better with time, not worse. They’re worth keeping on to, and you’ll eventually establish a bond
to them” [41]. The participants shared stories on developing products, which age together with
the consumer, such leather bags. These signs of wear also enable the costumer to develop a
narrative of the certain product. Denim was discussed as a good example for ageing with beauty
as most people have their favourite pair of denim which has evolved over time, getting natural
customisation through wear. P2 elaborated on that “I think that customization comes
naturally. When you wear something a lot, it becomes a part of you, like a signature thing that
you wear, and that you wear your way” [42]. Signs of wear should be celebrated, and the case-
company has emphasized this in their communication especially with leather, denim and linen
products, that are materials that become better with time through signs of wear, which makes
them special and unique.
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Table 9 – Enablers for ED
ED Enablers Facilitators
Physical durability Quality
Circular mindset
Fit Sizing, Diversity & inclusion
Continuous wear
Alteration
Communication Consumer education
Story telling
Transparency
Approaches Product service systems
Functionality
Gracefully Ageing
5.3 Integration
The integration of ED within a fashion company requires innovative thinking and taking on a
new approach, to disrupt the current fashion system, and thereby move into a new direction
and create a change in the industry. The participants highlighted different phases of DT to
elaborate on new innovative ideas that can help integrate ED into the design of the products.
The coding of the semi-structured interviews and supporting documents provided integrators
and tools for integration, which can be found in
Table 10.
5.3.1 Creating a change
The participants agreed that a change is needed in the current system to facilitate ED and
thereby ensure that product lifetimes are extended. P3 engaged in the discussion of the urgency
of change by elaborating on implementing sustainable KPI’s for the brand and the suppliers to
drive change which can implement more sustainable practice:
The time is running out; we need to make a change. I mean, we have to do them quick.
And I think this is a good way of driving the sector as well. And the ones that will be
there with us in the future will be sustainable and will follow our sustainable KPIs [43]
When discussing actions for change the participants elaborated on building knowledge between
stakeholders, to create a common goal. This can establish room for innovation and new ways
of thinking to redefine the needs of customers to understand how ED can be integrated. P1
explained “and also looking at change, and what is needed to make change and understanding
opportunities and threats”. [44]
Ideation allows teams to enable creative thinking, where team-based brainstorming often is used
as an ideation technique, as it allows for quick cycles of idea generation. Breaking DT processes
into manageable tasks focusing on empathising, which can be done through exploring a range
of perspectives and engaging in cross-disciplinary exchanges. Ideation can contribute to gaining
perspectives for change. In the case-company’s 2018 sustainability report D2, this aspect is
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elaborated on “Sharing our processes, plans and performance to identify joint challenges and
synergies with our peers, and accelerate more sustainable practices” [45]. A shared opinion
included that ideation across teams allowed for sharing information, and thereby allow for a
better understanding of problems, to provide opportunity for development of new ideas that can
push sustainable development. P4 explained “because you get to share information which is,
the most, the best way of gaining new knowledge”. [46]
Integrating ED can be facilitated through building knowledge. The interviews shone light on
building a common knowledge pool, where knowledge is shared across stakeholders. This
allows for people within the company to act on acquired knowledge and there by leverage their
entrepreneurial mindset. In the case-company’s 2018 sustainability report D2 its highlighted
that:
Our colleagues bring a diversity of knowledge that contributes to innovation and inclusive
products” and “with the goal of sharing knowledge on circularity, so we develop products
that can recirculate multiple times” [47]
Gathering and building knowledge is an important aspect in DT as it helps define the task at
hand. The participants agreed that sharing knowledge between departments helped build a
broader knowledge pool, which can be of high value when working with complex and abstract
issues such as integration of ED. P3 highlighted that “it's very good to be a part of this and to
share the knowledge that we have, because it's also helping everyone to move forward in what
we have to do within this area” [48].
Utilising DT processes within an organisation can offer several benefits, which can encourage
innovation and growth, which the participants highlighted in the interviews. The participants
mentioned entrepreneurial spirit as an important factor to ensure innovation within the T&C
industry. P4 emphasised that innovation is necessary to create change “I think we’re stuck in
an old system, where it hasn’t been renewed in a long time” [49]. P1 stated that innovation that
facilitates change requires exploration of different perspectives, where different expertise is
necessary to ensure that the new innovations can be tested to successfully create a change. The
supporting documents elaborated a lot on different innovations that have helped create a change
within the industry, the case-company’s 2020 sustainability report emphasises on new ways to
create change, and it was additionally stated “defining new ways to design our offering with
use, reuse and recyclability as the central focus” [50]. This focuses on new business models and
ventures, that explore products and services that can be utilised to increase use through ED and
thereby ensure longevity.
5.3.2 Collaboration and co-creation
The participants of the semi-structured interviews thoroughly described and explained how
collaborative efforts were used to challenge systems and develop new ideas. As well as
generating new knowledge that can facilitate new processes and practices that can overcome
some of the hurdles that the T&C industry is facing. Collaboration enables to explore different
perspectives, where the participants emphasised the benefit of collaborating across different
departments and with different stakeholders, to challenge silo-thinking and explore new
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innovative ideas to ensure sustainable development. P2 elaborated on collaboration stating
that “it’s a very enriching process, for everyone. You learn a lot from each other and it’s
humbling” [51], which is corroborated by P1 in the following statement:
I would say collaboration is a very big thing. That has always been kind of a part of the
values of the company, to work as teams and be entrepreneurial in the spirit of trying to
find solutions [52]
Collaboration and co-creation are discussed by the participants as tools to better understand
consumers and their demands and thereby having a better change of introducing products that
facilitate attachment through ED. Further, the participants mentioned co-creation as a way to
interact and establish a bond with the consumer, which can enable trust and loyalty, as well as
enable feedback and act as a communication tool between brand and consumer. Collaboration
can further facilitate the change that is needed within the industry. This is further explained in
the case-company’s 2020 sustainability report D9, where it additionally stated “we amplify our
positive impact by working with others – showing potential for innovation and dialogue to
speed transformation” [53].
All participants elaborated on feedback loops and the importance of getting feedback both
between departments but also from costumers, to help define new areas for development as well
as testing and ensuring the quality of developed products, P1 explained “all the time getting
customer feedback on the quality of our products, and continuously sharing that with our
production teams in order to solve the problems” [54]. P4 also brought it up “feedback can be
used as a broader tool, and we can make more use of it” [55], P3 stated that "So there are
different requirements depending on how you will use the product as a customer. And these are
also built from following up on customer complaints” [56]. The collaborative work is also
mentioned in the supporting secondary data, including the case-company’s 2020 sustainability
report D9 where it’s mentioned that “creating a positive feedback loop to empower constant
improvement” [57]. In D8 the co-creation between the buying department and the suppliers is
elaborated on, where a collaborative process is explained to facilitate better products with
longer lifetime. Collaborative efforts where feedback is continuously shared allows for
knowledge creation between participants. P3 elaborated further on this stating that there is a
need to be on the forefront in using feedback from customers to secure quality of the products
and further act as key to understand potential occurring problems.
The participants mentioned brainstorm workshops between design and the production team as
a way to figure out new ways of working, which helps explore different perspective and as a
tool for problem solving, which is the aim of DT. Brainstorming is mentioned in the supporting
document D5 as a tool that build stronger relationships between designers and suppliers to
understand complex problems and thereby “make specific demands and drive the sustainable
development forward” [58]. Brainstorming can according to P4 help establish innovative ways
of working which can initiate pilot projects that can be tested prior to being integrated at full
scale. This is elaborated on in the case-company’s sustainability fact sheet D3, where it’s further
stated:
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It also gives us the opportunity to innovate and pilot new ideas in a limited format before
launching them on a wider scale: from circular material projects to design collaborations
[59]
Collaborative brainstorming is according to the participants a welcoming tool to use in the
ideation process which was explained in section 5.3.1, as well as a creativity tool for concept
generation and prototyping, which can help define and clarify the purpose.
Collaboration and co-creation help in developing an iterative process where products can be
refined and finetuned to match the demands of consumers according to the participants and
supporting documents. In in the case-company’s sustainability fact sheet D3, it’s additionally
stated “we continually work to develop and improve our production while collaborating with a
range of stakeholders to push for improvement” [60] and in an article on the work that goes into
the collection D7 it’s further explained “with every new collection, we make small tweaks to
the details to improve quality and sustainability of the garments” [61] and further highlighted
in an article on the case-company’s website D6, it’s stated “when we make changes, they are
small refinements of the original idea” [62]. This is further elaborated on by the participants as
continuous monitoring and evaluating products enables for further exploration and ideation to
refine products and impact product lifetime. Engaging with iterative cycles with consumers
through co-creation opens for opportunities to create products which meet customer demands
while fulfilling other stakeholder’s expectation in value creation.
5.3.3 Role of the designer
The interviews provided insight in the role of the designer, and they all provided information
that the biggest potential to integrate ED into product, was in the design phase. It was
highlighted by P1 “I would say in the design phase, thinking really about how the garment is
going to be used for a long time” [63]. In the secondary documents the design departments are
elaborated on where it’s discussed that they have opportunity to influence things in a positive
direction, while active and deliberate choices within the design process can make innovative
changes. According to P4 designers have the ability to use their innovative and creative
processes that stem from design theory to design for durable products which can be kept in the
consumers wardrobe for a prolonged time.
Problem solving is a big part of a designer’s work, where problem solving can take place
through dialogue and brainstorming, which can help develop empathy and understanding.
This can successively create a change, which was highlighted by P4. Design starts as a problem-
solving process, where a lot is initiated by brain storming. Further, insights elaborated that
several styles were often refined every season through customer feedback, where the focus lies
in solving problems that the customers have encountered. P4 highlighted that there is a need to
focus on problem solving as a designer:
I think it [the design role] must take on the role more as a problem solver, rather than just
the designer […] And think of a product more holistically both how it's produced, but
also the afterlife. And a lot of focus on the functionality [64]
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Problem solving tasks are not specific to any DT phase but it’s a process which happens across
all phases to develop innovative solutions. Being a problem solver is also mentioned on the
case-company’s website, where the article on the work that goes into making the collection D7
highlights the task of being a problem solver as “working my way backwards from the answer
to find the right questions to the problem” [65] this further highlights the design process and
working as an iterative problem solver.
Design has the potential to be the starting point for integration of ED, where the participants all
highlighted the designer’s role as an important facilitator for ED. Designers have the
competencies and power to ensure aspects such as physical durability, which can guarantee that
the garments have the preconditions for a long lifetime. In D9 the role of the designer is
highlighted were training in materials is discussed as a way to ensure longevity and opportunity
for reuse. Further it’s explained that designers have the competencies to iteratively create
products using innovative technology such as 3D, which minimises error and garment failure,
which can have an impact on ED. In the case-company’s 2018 sustainability report D2 design
is explained as “the first opportunity to bring circular aspects into our value chain. Incorporating
circular thinking early paves the way for later stages to follow suit.” [65] P1 elaborates that the
design can ensure, that the products have characteristics that can ensure longevity and product
attachment, including designing products that have alteration possibilities or multifunctional
characteristics. This is further corroborated by P2 “it's very considered in the design
perspective” [66]
The participants talked about designers having an innovative and open mindset that opens up
for creativity and new processes. Being open-minded is essential to ensure that no opportunities
are missed. This was highlighted by the participants and further discussed in the case-
company’s sustainability fact sheet D3, where it was stated that “In our experience, it can often
be eye-opening to reconsider the choices we make in everyday life” [67]. The data highlighted
that having an innovative mindset can foster radical collaboration, which can enable insights
and knowledge to be shared across the organisation while being able to test ideas to clarify
underlying assumptions. P4 shared information on having an innovative mindset, which opens
up for new ideas:
It's also means taking care of our waste and stock, in a creative way, how we can create
new products from maybe our waste. And the garments we already have in stores that
maybe aren’t selling, how can we create new products out of these and thereby prolong
lifespan [68]
Thus, having a mindset which consider traditional design processes, but also opens up for
engaging in ideas which turns designing on its head to try and create a change that facilitates
longevity within products.
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Table 10 – Integration of ED
Integrators Tools
Creating a change Ideation
Knowledge creation
Innovation
Collaboration & Co-creation Feedback loops
Brainstorm
Iterative process
Role of the designer Problem solver
Design as a starting point
Innovative mindset
5.4 Conceptual Framework for Emotional Durability
Figure 4 – Framework for emotional durability developed by author
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The empirical findings provided different aspects for the integration of ED within a T&C
Company. A conceptual framework (Figure 4) was established to provide, and overview and
enhance the understanding of the complexity within ED. The framework was developed
through an investigation of the findings and linking the results with the aim of the thesis, giving
an overview which support the understanding of the ED from a brand perspective. Emotional
durability is situated at the centre of the framework, with attributes, services and integrators
surrounding it. The second circle shows the attributes that were found to be needed when
developing products that encourage ED, these include: functionality, physical durability, fit and
communication. These attributes help create the foundation for long-lasting products to can be
cherished by consumer for many years. The third circle shows the product service systems that
can be set in place by fashion brands to support ED and ensure that the products can evolve
together with the consumers. Services further allow for brands to establish new routes for
economic income, to overcome the challenges within the current system. The services include
upgradeability, modular design, alteration, repair, customisation and personalisation. These
services can help support the attributes, for example alteration can help ensure better fit,
personalisation can support communication, where building a narrative around the product is
of importance. The fourth circle highlights the integrators for emotional durability which
emphasises some of the core processes of design thinking, these processes can be utilised to
integrate emotional durability into product development at fashion brands. The overall
integrators include collaboration & co-creation, creating a change & the role of the designer.
ED is a complex area, and can be difficult to grasp, which is why the integrators are essential,
to be able to understand the importance of collaboration, both within departments but also
integrating the costumers, to take on a human-centred approach, to enable for knowledge
creation and thereby ensure products that fit the costumers need. The framework consists of
powerful individual elements that can be used as sources for inspiration for integration of ED, but
it can also be explored as hybrids in varied combinations. The framework can be used to introduce
different aspects of ED and give companies the tools to engage with the topic and make it more
tangible to create a systemic change in the industry where product attachment through emotional
connection is desired to ensure longevity.
5.5 Summary of Key Findings
In this chapter the major findings regarding the challenges, enablers and integration of ED
were elaborated on, where DT was highlighted as a tool that could ensure integration of ED.
It was demonstrated that the challenges for ED were:
o The current state of the fashion industry, has created a system where the influx of new
dominates, leading to quick turnaround in clothing and a lack of product attachment
o Lack in knowledge from the consumers, create an obstacle for ED, as many consumers
are unaware of how to maintain and care for product to ensure a prolonged lifetime
o Individuality acts as a hinderance to ED, as it can be difficult to stimulate product
attachment within consumers who have different emotional perceptions.
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In addition, it was found that the enablers included:
o Communication was emphasised as a tool to ensure ED. The research found that this
includes communicative consumer education, as well as using transparency and
storytelling to facilitate emotional narratives.
o Several approaches similar to strategies found in the literature were found to be
beneficial in relation to ensure evolvement of products, these include:
o Personalisation & customisation
o Functionality through modular and flexible design
o Alteration which ensures fit
o Product service systems
o Gracefully ageing
o PD was found to be a foundational level for ED to guarantee the quality of a garment
thus enabling long product life
Finally, the integration of ED could be facilitated through:
o ED can be integrated through design processes that have been developed through DT
o The design stage has the most potential in influencing ED with support from
communication tools
o Collaboration and co-creation are important tools to ensure knowledge sharing and
development of new ideas
o Feedback loops and iteration can establish a better understanding of the consumer needs
and thereby innovate and test new ideas to integrate strategies and services for ED
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6 Discussion
In this chapter the result of the findings will be discussed. The fulfilment of the of the research
is discussed in consideration of the purpose, aim, objectives and the research questions. The
discussion aims at connecting and generating a dialogue between the findings and the theory
reviewed from the relevant literature.
The study identified several aspects related to ED that may be important in relation to ensuring
longevity within the fashion industry. The participants in the study showed a range of
perspectives. Some similarities were explored, however there were also some differences,
which could be linked to the participants working in different departments and therefore have
varied knowledge bases and different competencies. The literature provided a grounded
understanding in the concept of ED in relation to longevity, where the case-study provided
additional information in relation to how it can be approached from a brand perspective, while
keeping the consumer in mind, to allow for the integration of ED at a brand level. The existing
literature shone light on both enablers and challenges including the current fashion system not
catering for concepts such as ED, this was supported by the case-study. However, the case-
company also emphasized that the next generation, will have a lot of impact in relation to
speeding up a change, as they won’t accept the current system forcing companies to change
business models.
The aim of this thesis was to review the emerging phenomenon of ED within the T&C industry
and its integration possibilities. To contribute to the understanding of product life extension to
support a more circular industry. The case-study allowed for an exploration of challenges and
enablers linked to a brand in relation to ED, which will be discussed in the next section with
supporting evidence from literature.
6.1 Challenges for Emotional Durability
The discussion throughout this section connects the findings in chapter five together with the
relevant literature and theory reviewed, with the aim to provide an analytical exploration of
the challenges for ED to address RQ1
6.1.1 Stuck in an stagnate system
From the literature and the case-study, it was deduced that one of the overarching challenges to
ED is linked with the current fashion system, which is acting as a hindrance to facilitate product
attachment. In the literature it is highlighted by several scholars that product obsolescence stand
in the way of ED (London 1932; Packard 1964), especially planned obsolescence which was
introduced to ensure economic growth and prevent stagnation in demand. This links to concerns
that was voiced by the participants from the interviews [1,5,6], stating that the current system
is built on selling a large number of products at an increasingly fast pace, which can have an
impact on the quality of the products that are produced, both from a style and durability
perspective. The current ways of designing and manufacturing T&C doesn’t necessarily take
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consumers needs and demands into account but is rather defined by speed and economic gains.
There is the potential that ED will lead to a reduction in sales, which means that organisations
may be averse to implementing strategies that can facilitate ED, as it can impact their financial
viability (Ceschin & Gaziulusoy 2016). To change these patterns, it’s essential to find new ways
to engage consumers more deeply into the process of designing as well as to introduction of
new sustainable value creation, which could be through services, where product life can be
extended while companies ensure economic gain (Niinimäki & Armstrong 2013).
Both scholars within the literature and the participants of the empirical study indicated that
there is a need to move away from the stagnate and linear system, and instead introduce a
system, where there is a focus on more on durable products both from an emotional- and
physical perspective to ensure longevity (Chapman 2015; Fletcher 2017; McNeill et al. 2020;
Mugge 2018; Norman 2004). The results from the findings provided a clearer understanding of
some of the challenges that the current system is facing including the speed of the system,
meaning that there’s less time to develop and design products, which may compromise the
quality of the garments [5]. This has been highlighted as a link to the throway culture, where
the result has been waste accumulation due to failed relationship between consumers cause by
garment failure (Chapman 2015, p. 61).
The results of the emperical findings build on existing evidence that there is a need for a radical
change within the industry. Where consumption behaviour needs to be altered to create room
for ED to ensure longevity within the T&C industry (Haines-Gadd et al. 2018). The participants
voiced their opinions that brands could be stuck in silo-thinking and therefore not pushing the
boundaries for change to define new perspectives and ways of working [51].
6.1.2 Consumer Mindset
Deep product attachment, through emotional connection, has the potential to extend the lifespan
of a product (Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). However, the findings from the case-study elaborated
on the fact that ED is dependent on collaboration and understanding from the consumer to
ensure the best possible conditions for products longevity [52]. The challenges that ED is facing
was elaborated on through the semi-structured interviews with the case-company, where it was
voiced that there is need for a deeper understanding on the connection between consumer and
product. EDD is a radically new approach to sustainable design and requires commitment both
from brands and consumers (Fletcher 2017). However, a current obstacle to ED was highlighted
in the case-study that there is a lack in knowledge on how to take care of garments[7,8], this
links to the previous section where the speed of the current system has caused products to
become disposables with the constant influx of new, where there is little incentive to repair or
deeply care for garments (Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). The study provided information that
consumer mindset is acting as a hinderance to ED, where consumers are used to mass-
production and therefore accustomed to not keeping things as they have little expectation in
relation to quality [9,11]. This result ties well with previous studies wherein product quality
perception has been linked to challenges within longevity. From the results of the findings, it
became clear that consumer lack knowledge in care, maintenance and repair [7,8], which shows
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that traditional crafts such as bringing you products to a shoemaker or tailor is disappearing,
which according to previous studies have proven to be a way to promote product engagement
(Neto & Ferreira 2020). Brown (2008) highlights that the pool of knowledge within an
organisation can be utilised to grasp new opportunities and develop ideas that can help foster
knowledge building within the consumer, and thus allowing for better opportunity for ED.
6.1.3 Individuality
The current system works on the basis of mass production where trends dictate the market
(Ghim & Shin 2020). This can create a challenge for ED, as stimulating product attachment has
been found to be linked with uniqueness and self-expression (Chapman 2015). Previous studies
show that product failure is often linked to changes in consumer’s body size, as well as changes
in style and taste which can be influenced by trends (Cooper et al. 2013a). This is according to
the case-study findings a prominent reason for garment failure.
From the results of the findings, it’s clear that fostering ED can require the use of different
strategies, to fit accordingly with different types of consumers. However, there is also a need
for products evolving to capture the evolving needs of consumers. The reviewed data
highlighted that it’s the consumers who gives the product meaning through social and cultural
factors over time, and thereby develops a level of attachment [12]. This links to the theory
presented by Norman (2004) who states that the reflective level is required to give product
meaning and develop memories, where a sustained interaction is required. This shows that in a
system that is defined by speed and constant changes, a key obstacle lies within securing a
prolonged interaction with a product. Furthermore, studies have shown that it can be difficult
to study product attachment and that the establishment of an emotional connection can be very
subjective (Harper 2017). Several strategies can be applied, which have the potential to foster
the attachment, but ultimately it’s the user that gives meaning to the product and decides upon
the attachment level (Mugge 2018).
6.2 Enablers for Emotional Durability
The discussion throughout this section connects the findings in chapter five together with the
relevant literature and theory reviewed, with the aim to provide an analytical exploration of
the enablers for ED to address RQ1
6.2.1 Physical durability
The results demonstrated in the findings matched what was stated in the literature review, which
emphasise that PD is a cornerstone in ensuring a foundation for long product lifetime [13]
(Mugge 2018; van den Berge, Magnier & Mugge 2021). However previous studies have shown
that PD is not the only prerequisite for ED and more is needed to facilitate this (Chapman 2009;
Haug 2017). Previous research has highlighted that PD has been a preferred way for companies
to design for longevity (Connor-Crabb 2017; Cooper et al. 2013a; Cramer 2011). Garment
failure due to quality aspects was among one of the reasons for customer claims, which the
case-study revealed. Thereby, showing that products need to be able to withstand the test of
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time to be able to have the foundation for a long lifetime. The findings demonstrated that PD
which include materials, seams, construction and trims are inherent to increasing longevity [15].
One of the missions within the case-company is to raise the quality of everyday design, where
products are continuously refined every season through feedback loops between departments
and consumers. However, the findings also opened up for the fact that PD doesn’t guarantee
that an emotional bond will be established, which links to the presented state-of-art. This
highlights that physical characteristics of a product is not the single deciding factor, but one in
many when it comes to influencing the product’s lifetime. Further, in relation to PD it was
found in the study that the current fashion system has ingrained some expectations into the
consumers, which means that they might have predefined expectation of the lifetime of certain
products and once this expectation has been reached the product is discarded of [11], which
then can act as a hinderance to ED.
6.2.2 Communicative Tools for emotional durability
EDD entails that there is a relationship between design and user to create a more durable
approach to products (Chapman 2014). It thereby enables the users to keep interested in the
product and therefore not engage with purchasing new items (Cramer 2011). The case-study
provided insight in communication being an important tool to engage with consumers and
ensure that the products are used in a way which gives them the best premises for a long life
[26,27]. The existing literature supports this, and that it’s not enough to design products which
are beautifully designed with opportunity for modification or adaptation to maintain empathy
(Goworek et al. 2018; Nerurkar 2016). There is a need for communication to support these
strategies to ensure a continuous relationship is developed. The study highlighted that the design
process was the first opportunity to integrate strategies for ED, but these strategies needed
support through communication, including both aspects of transparency as well as guides for
maintaining and caring for the products [33].
One of the most important steps to tackle to ensure longevity is to tackle the culture of
disposability and create a world where longevity is a preferable attribute (Cooper et al. 2013a).
This aspect can be facilitated through fashion brands, as they are in a position to encourage
better consumption behaviour and nudge their customers in certain directions through
communication. The case-study findings provided an understanding that communication can
facilitate a change in consumer mindset while building a relationship between the brand and
consumer through storytelling [31]. Communication can thereby help build narrative, previous
studies have shown that continuous communication after point of sales can ensure that the
narrative of the product is extended through continuous story-telling and information sharing
about the product (Haeggblom & Budde 2021). Furthermore, it was found that by delivering
information about a product enables the user to gain insight in the work and craft that was
involved in production, which may facilitate a relationship. The case-company provided
information on transparency and information-sharing, to ensure consumer-awareness in the
work that goes into the production, as well as ensuring that the consumers are equipped with
knowledge in relation to care and maintenance, to avoid premature garment failure due to
wrongful care [27,29, 32]. However, the case-company emphasised that a lot of claims were
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still received, where wrong care had caused premature garment failure, which highlighted that
even more communication on care may be necessary to educate the consumers.
Products can convey information as well as work as storytellers, where users can establish
unique and personal stories, which can be encouraged through continuous communication from
brands, which over a prolonged time can from layers of significance through memories
(Chapman 2015). These memories are of importance to ensure long lifespan. As Norman (2004)
states these meanings are ingrained in the reflective level of design where personal satisfaction,
identity building, and memories happen.
6.2.3 Core strategies for emotional durability
Discussing potential scenarios for garment longevity through ED, it has been found that
strategies in combination can help build relationships between user and product with the support
of a human-centred approach [34]. Several approaches were elaborated on in the case-study,
which relates to strategies found in the existing literature. The strategies that were highlighted
included aging beautifully, functionality which encompass modular, flexible products and
customisation, as well as focusing on the fit through alteration. For instance, creating multi-
functional garments was elaborated on by the case-company [38], which can potentially deepen
attachment and ensure that the product remains relevant for longer (Niinimäki 2011)
It was found that aesthetics has been a large part of the design strategies within the fashion
industry, but there is a shift happening with more focus being put on functionality, which can
help ensure that the promise of experience and evolvement will be kept (Earley 2017; McNeill
et al. 2020). Chapman (2015) has voiced that waste is a result of failed relationships between
product and user, this can occur when user’s desires change and evolve but products stay
stagnate. It’s here that the concept of modular and flexible solutions can ensure continuous
functionality of the products, and thereby cater to the changing needs of the consumer. The
findings showed that developing products with the end user in mind, gives potential to design
products which can be modular, flexible and versatile [34]. The participants elaborated on
examples that the case company had engaged with, such as designing childrenswear that could
be altered according to the growth of the child, jacket with detachable linings which enabled
the customer with multiple purposes for the jacket. This shows that clothes need to offer an
opportunity for change and modification, which further allows for experience between product
and consumer (Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015)
In relation to modification another aspect which was highlighted in the study was fit [20,22],
where it was elaborated that fit was an important aspect to ensure product lifetime extension.
With fast fashion a lot of clothing is mass-produced, which means they aren’t altered to fit a
specific person but based on standard sizing. A common reason found in previous studies on
why functional garments end up in landfill is linked to fit (Earley 2017; Laitala & Klepp 2011;
WRAP 2015). With even more clothing not being in active use due to it needing to be altered
to fit (Cooper et al. 2016). When comparing results from previous studies with the findings it
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clearly shows that there is a lot of potential in using strategies which accommodate fit, to ensure
relationships between consumer and products [20, 21].
Revealing signs of the wearer through ageing beautifully, can create a narrative around a
garment (Harper 2017). According to the study there are several design choices in relation to
materials which can ensure that products age gracefully, which can establish an emotional bond.
The findings gave a clearer understanding of ageing with beauty, where communication was
discussed to be a supporting factor to the strategy [40]. This allowed to further educate the
consumer about materials such as linen, denim, wool and leather, which have certain qualities
that evolve over time. Exploring products which builds narrative through time and through
unique signs of wear can foster relationships. However, in line with Walker’s (2006) study, it
needs to be considered, that people have been accustomed to new and shiny, where a
readjustment in value in relations to the expectation of products aesthetics and their evolvement
over time. Ageing beautifully can be seen as a counterpart to the fast fashion system where
constant change is the favourable scenario, but by emphasising the signs of wear, consumers
have the opportunity to personally customise their products through wear, thus opening for the
possibility of prolonged life [42].
Modularity, alteration and repair can be initiated through product service systems, which also
allows for the consumer and brand to engage and provide feedback. One of the challenges to
ED was the economic viability of having longer lasting products, but by introducing services,
brands can make money on a product several times while developing a prolonged relationship
with the customer. Repair and alteration services can help extend the life of a garment (Goworek
et al. 2018; Haines-Gadd et al. 2018; Mugge 2018). Product service systems have the possibility
to offer new strategic market opportunities while establishing a stronger relationship with
customers that can facilitate ED (Baldassarre et al. 2020). The findings demonstrated that some
services had been introduced, however still at pilot level and therefore at an early level to
understand their full potential [36]. In line with previous studies repair was discussed both as a
service, but also as something the consumer could engage with themselves either through
workshops with the brand or through consumer education. Others have shown that actively
participating in the repair, can help develop a ritual or habit, which further acts as a facilitator
in creating an emotional bond (Neto & Ferreira 2020). Several “design for” strategies have been
found to support the development of services that can prolong the life time of products (Allwood
et al. 2015). Through services the inner loops of the circular economy system can be stimulated
through repair, modification, personalisation, which is something which was highlighted
through the study. Further, services can enable companies to collaborate and create a bond with
consumer, which can ensure that the demands and needs are met.
6.3 Integration of emotional durability
In this section the findings from chapter 5 will be discussed in relation to the relevant
literature, where the theory of DT will be emphasised in relation to provide an analytical
exploration of the integration of ED to facilitate longevity in the T&C industry and thereby
address RQ2
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The current fashion system is still very much operating in traditional ways, where a new
sustainable mindset is still waiting to emerge at large (Fletcher 2015a). The theoretical lens
provides processes that have the potential to strategically move towards a more sustainable
future (Brown 2008; IDEO nd). The study revealed a wide range of insights in how different
phases of DT can be used to test and create new concepts that ties together with the aspects of
ED. The study emphasised on flexibility, collaboration and diversity, together with a belief that
knowledge sharing, and creativity can help push boundaries to create a change that supports a
more circular industry [44,45,49]. Furthermore, DT’s core intent is to solve problems through
gaining a deeper understanding of human needs, through building empathy through
observations and feedback (Bjögvinsson et al. 2012). This was found to be already set in place
to address sustainability issues within the case-company. Where continuous feedback from
customer claims, surveys and pilot projects allowed for understanding consumers and their
needs [53].
There’s a lot of potential in relation to integrating ED from a brand perspective through DT.
DT seeks to employ an open mind, as well as to channel creativity for a specific cause to solve
problems, through engaging with different phases that can be implemented both at
organisational level or departmental level (Brown 2008). The challenges that the industry is
currently facing requires rapid changes on different levels. The findings showed that
implementing DT processes across organisations provides potential for facilitating change.
Thereby, becoming a leverage point for transformation and engagement towards an industry
where longevity and ED is favoured [59,62].
The DT process offers opportunity which can foster excitement and optimism. Through the five
stages in DT organisations have the possibility to develop innovational change. However, the
findings show that DT processes are encouraged to be conducted collaboratively to gain the
best result. Diversity is a crucial aspect, to facilitate knowledge sharing and eliminating silo-
thinking which can inhibit innovation [51,52]. The study provided information that the biggest
opportunity within the integration of ED is linked to the design process, where the senior
designer stated that designers should work as problem solvers, where a human-centred approach
should be taken to understand the needs of the consumer. This is corroborated by findings in
the literature review and links with the theoretical lens. Scholars have argued that designers
within fashion organisations are well suited to apply and encourage new sustainable business
models and innovative ways of working, as they have the capabilities to connect human needs
and desired with new opportunities and innovation from business, science and technology
(Baldassarre et al. 2020; Casais et al. 2015; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011). In line with the previous
studies the findings provided insight that design can be used as a starting point for the
integration of ED through creative and innovative processes where the user’s needs and
emotions are considered.
Integrating ED through strategies and processes require collaboration and co-creation across
the organisations, with stakeholders and consumers and can’t rely solely on the designers within
the organisation. When collaboration expands across a range of people within different fields
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more perspectives are brought forward, which enables to gain deeper as well as broader
perspective. This multidisciplinary approach allows for several processes including developing
empathy, prototyping, synthesising, communicating and evaluating (Valentine et al. 2017),
where collaboration can act as a progressor for change. By comparing the results from the
findings with previous studies, it was possible to deduce that DT is an important aspect for ED
as DT takes a human-centred approach, where understanding the end-user is essential to create
new innovations [64,65]. Further ED is a phenomenon which builds on human emotion, thus
it’s essential to understand how to cater to these emotions [63].
Within collaboration and co-creation feedback loops was found to be of high importance in the
case-study, to continuously gain insight from the end consumer, but also get feedback from
stakeholders and employees, to see potential refinements. The case-company provided
information regarding pilot-projects [59], which was also highlighted in DT literature, as a tool
to understand new strategies and innovations and potential development and iterations prior to
launching them full scale (IDEO nd). Testing allows for knowledge building, which can be
shared to facilitate a change, the findings provided insight that sharing could be a sixth process
within DT. As the fashion industry requires a systemic change, which sharing across companies
can help foster. The findings provided an understanding in information sharing and the
importance within it, to create a broader change [48]. ED is important in relation to product
longevity and it’s therefore important to share knowledge on strategies and processes to ensure
its success.
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7 Conclusion
In the previous chapter the findings were discussed in relation to the research questions. This
chapter will finalise the thesis and will describe and justify the conclusions drawn from the
research.
ED has been an emerging topic of interest within the T&C industry as it allows for extended
product life and thereby helps overcome some of the consumption issues related to the industry
(Chapman 2015). It further provides opportunities to redesign the linear model into a circular
one. This thesis explored the phenomenon of ED through a singular case-study, to gain insight
on the phenomenon from a brand perspective.
A broad review of the literature highlighted the current global problems of linear consumerism
where the norm is early product replacement, further ED between products and users was
highlighted, and DT was underlined as the theoretical framework. The literature reviewed
revealed a range of opportunities that informed the research questions and the overall research
design of the study. Primarily, the research focus was directed at understanding the challenges
and enablers for ED to create an understanding of the integration of ED through the use of DT.
The processes within the five stages of DT by IDEO (nd) provided a useful lens to examine the
integration possibilities for ED, which was highlighted in the findings from the case company.
The research questions:
RQ1: What are the challenges and enablers for implementing ED within the T&C industry from
a brand perspective?
RQ2: How can companies within the T&C industry integrate ED to facilitate longevity?
were addressed through the analysis of the findings. The DT processes together with
interdisciplinary collaboration across department revealed the possibility for more innovation
to be developed to create a lasting change in the industry. It became apparent that PD has been
a focus within fashion organisation to facilitate longevity, but now more focus on ED is required
to ensure that products can get a longer life. It was acknowledged that the biggest potential
within ED from a brand perspective was within the design processes, but there is a need for
communication to support the decisions made at design level to collaboratively build
relationships between brands and consumers.
7.1 Theoretical implication
This thesis generates new understanding into a relatively unexplored research area: DT
processes in the context of integration of ED within the T&C industry. The literature on DT
showed that DT is a constructive approach towards problem-solving and innovation, however
there is scarce information on its use within fashion and textiles, and it could be advantageous
to utilise the theory to challenge the current system. This research showed that brands are
working with phases of DT, with a goal to try and solve complex issues, which longevity and
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ED can be seen as. The most influential result in the study shows that several phases within DT
can help ensure the integration of ED. Collaboration and co-creation are found to be of great
importance to build a foundation for ED. As it offers opportunity for knowledge sharing and
bringing in new perspectives to foster new innovations and new ways of thinking. Through
cross-disciplinary collaboration new insights can be developed which challenges the speed of
the current system and helps implement a more circular mindset, where longevity in products
is a desired asset. Through providing examples of how DT processes were implemented at a
fashion brand, this study contributes to the building of a better understanding of DT and its
potential in the integration of ED. However, the research also showed that perceptions of DT
vary a lot, which means that there needs to be a better consensus of what DT is and how it can
be used to solve problems.
There is a lot of focus on the T&C industry and trying to tackle some of the challenges within
the industry, where the disposability has become the norm, due to the linear business model
(EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017). This research contributes to adressing the importance of
the inner loops of the circular economy, which emphasis on the need for keeping products in
use for as long as possible. The thesis provides insight in how innovative thinking and continous
feedback loops can iteratively develop better products and services which can ensure continous
evolvement of products to follow the changing needs in consumers and thereby foster ED.
7.2 Practical Implications
The findings can serve as a support for fashion brands, who wish to develop products and
services with longevity in mind. The study provided valuable insights into strategies and
services which can be iterated and refined through cross-disciplinary collaboration across
departments and with stakeholders to secure the best possible success factor. This study has
offered novel knowledge on the phenomenon of ED from the viewpoint of brands. Previous
studies have focused consumer perspective, which is an additional important aspect when it
comes to ED, but this research establishes further knowledge on strategies and services for
integration. This can help shift consumer mindset and develop a better emotional bond between
products and people, and create an industry where longevity is desired, both from consumer
and brand perspective.
The need for strong collaborations and relationships are outlined, both within the organisations
but also with stakeholders. The findings emphasised that there is need for collaboration and
knowledge sharing across competitors to ensure that the needed change within the industry is
addressed, through use of opening up perspectives and defining strategies for an overall system
change. Continuous communication regarding challenges can enable for the development of
new innovations through DT, which can ensure ED and product retention and therefore
longevity. The study provides insights in how collaboration can help foster a sustainable
industry.
The following three points presents original research contributions
o Advanced knowledge on emotional durability from a brand perspective
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o A conceptual framework based on the main findings of the research, which can provide
design professionals and scholars with a tool to integrate emotional durability
o Evidence supporting the enablers and challenges for emotional durability in relation to
longevity
7.3 Limitations and Future Research
This study has some limitations which could be addressed in future research. The thesis is
limited as a result of the delimitations that were set in the initial stages of the research. The
collected data was limited to a small sample size, that was due to the methodological choices
made for this study.
Due to the pandemic, it was not possible to facilitate face to face interviews, which meant that
the case-study interviews were conducted using zoom and Microsoft teams, it can be easier to
build trust and show empathy through face-to-face interviews, which can be more challenging
in digital interviews. Further it was not possible to include field visits and observations of the
case-study company, which could’ve contributed to the richness of the data and enabled for
delving deeper into the DT processes and collaboration between the different departments.
This study provides a range of opportunities for further research, and by considering the
limitations above further research could include comparison of data from several organisations.
a larger sample, where multiple-case studies were studied could provide more versatile insights,
that can support the findings and further strengthen the generalisability.
Furthermore, longitudinal evaluations of designed products that are utilising the design
strategies and services discussed in the findings, much like the work of Mugge, Schifferstein
and Schoormans (2005), would provide greater insight in the potential of the strategies in
relation to fostering ED. Longitudinal studies can provide insight in potential pitfalls within the
strategies, these studies could be conducted within different product categories.
The study provided a range of challenges that the needs to be overcome, highlighting the need
for a change in the fashion system, where economical gains require some alterations. This
further opens up for future research in business model reconfiguration to ensure success for the
integration of ED.
In this study ED was researched within the field of clothing & textiles, in future studies the
findings could be applies to products outside of the T&C industry, to gain understanding in the
potential of ED within other fields.
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9 Appendix
9.1 Appendix 1
RESEARCH PROTOCOL, INTERVIEW GUIDE, and CODING PROTOCOL
I. RESEARCH PROTOCOL
1. Identify the research gap and confirm that emotional durability from a brand
perspective is a viable research area. And start identifying potential brands via public
information available
2. Sample a list of fashion brands who works with emotional durability, to get an
understanding in the brand that best represents emotional durability, and thereby
ensure that participants have the expertise and are knowledgeable on the topic within
the company. Create a list of potential departments within the brands that can be of
value to include in the study
3. Contact the sampled brand, include the research purpose, who is completing the
research so this is clear to all participants, provide the participants with more in-depth
information regarding the research project to ensure that the participants are familiar
and understanding in regard to the research topic
4. Address ethical issues in relation to data collection, by attaching consent form,
providing the participants with knowledge to the interview process. Even though the
research doesn’t intend to collect personal information.
5. Prior to the interview, upon confirmation of booking, provide the participant with the
consent form, as well as the interview guide, to enable the participant to study the
questions prior to the interview and prepare more in-depth answers. Further, a few
days prior to the interviews an email should be sent out reminding the participant
about the interview data, time as well as providing a zoom link.
6. Start the interview with obtaining the respondent’s consent to thereby tecord and
confirm confidentiality of any personal - or identifiable information. Confirm the role
of the respondents and ensure that the participant will be referred to in a general sense
in the quotes of the study.
7. The interviews with each participant should aim for approximately 45min via zoom or
a similar digital platform, depending on the preference of the participant, using the
interview guide, to lead the discussion and keep on track, to gain valuable insights for
the study. record the interview with the consent of the participant.
8. Immediately or soon after the interview should be transcribed by the author. The
transcription should be proofread, while listening to the transcription several times to
ensure accuracy of the transcription. To ensure confidentiality of the information
provided by the participants the names and other personal data should be anonymised
or removed. The transcript should be sent to the participants for review and approval
as soon as the transcription is done, to ensure that the answers are still fresh in the
participants’ mind.
9. As soon as the transcript has been approved by the respondents, the coding process
can be initiated. Reading through both transcripts and the secondary data preliminary
coding can be initiated. The coding protocol, interview guide and initial codes will
follow in the sections below.
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II. PARTICIPANT CONSENT FORM FOR THE INTERVIEWS
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III. EXTRACT OF LITERATURE REVIEW PROVIDED TO PARTICIPANTS
TO INFORM ABOUT THE PHENOMENON OF EMOTIONAL
DURABILITY AND LONGEVITY
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IV. INTERVIEW GUIDE
Emotional Durability from a brand perspective – Strategies and future implementation – a case
study
I. Intro
1. Explain the project and that the interview will be recorded and get verbal consent
Hi, thank you again for agreeing to participate in this study, your time is very much appreciated. I am going to
read a brief introduction now to ensure that plan for this study is understood by all participants. Today we will be
talking about emotional durability and it’s potential to facilitate longevity within the clothing and fashion industry.
The interview aims to get the perspective of a company and how emotional durability can be integrated within a
fashion company, this thesis investigates the challenges and enablers for emotional durability. Bear in mind that
there are no right or wrong answers, it’s your opinions and experiences that I’m interested in.
You can ask questions at any time and have the right to deny answering any of the questions, you also have the
right to stop the interview at any time and withdraw from the study. I will send you a transcript of the interview
afterwards, where you can give feedback or make correction in relation to factual correctness. Further your name
nor the name of the company will not be linked to any of the report’s findings for this study and the report will be
anonymised. The details regarding your identity will only be known to me and my supervisor for the project. Do
you have any questions prior to getting started?
II. About you
1. Position within the company?
2. How long have you been working within the company?
3. How important is product durability within the company?
III. Emotional durability
1. What do you believe are the enablers for emotional durability?
2. What are the challenges for implementing emotional durability?
a. How do you think these challenges can be overcome?
3. I’ve seen that longevity is mentioned in your sustainability fact sheet, with an emphasis on
prolonging the lifetime of garments and creating meaningful items – how is this
implemented within the company?
a. At what stage do you believe there’s the biggest potential to integrate emotional
durability to create prolonged relationship between user and product?
b. How is longevity communicated within the company?
c. How do you think making products that are made to last can be beneficial to your
company?
4. What changes do you think are necessary within the industry to increase the desire and
attitude towards emotional durability in relation to establishing longevity?
5. How important do you think emotional durability is for the fashion industry?
IV. DT & Collaboration
I would now like to move into another topic which relates to emotional durability and ways in which
companies can come up with new innovative ideas, which is related to DT and collaboration
1. According to your experience, what do you think is the best tool for problem solving?
a. How is it used to achieve sustainability within the company?
2. How is the company collaborating across departments?
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3. What are the advantages to cross-department/interdisciplinary collaborations?
4. What challenges have you experience when working on collaborative projects?
5. How important do you think it is to have an entrepreneurial mindset in the creative industry
and in interdisciplinarity?
6. Do you feel the role of fashion brands are changing to the extent that you’re becoming
communicators and educators?
7. How is consumer feedback integrated into the development of new products/projects?
8. Is co-creation considered within the company
a. If yes how so?
V. Closing of the interview
1. Given everything we have talked about today – is there anything else you would like to add or clarify
before we finish today?
2. That’s everything for today, thank you so much for participating. You have been really helpful. Do you
have any further questions before I stop recording?
V. RESEARCHER CODING PROTOCOL
1. Familiarising yourself with the data
Primary interview data
- Transcribe the data as soon as possible after the interview
- Listen to the audio recordings several times to ensure accuracy of the transcription
- Ensure confidentiality of participants by anonymising personal data
- Provide the transcription to the participant for review and approval
- Fill the interview data into the coding word document
- Write down notes with initial ideas in relation to codes
Secondary data
- Read through the internal documents provided by case company
- Reread the publicly available documents again
- Fill the data into the coding word document
- Write down potential notes and ideas that comes to mind
2. Generating and using initial and codes and emergent codes
- Initial codes are guided by existing knowledge regarding the topic and stems from
frameworks within the literature and selected theory
- Code the data both from primary- and secondary data
- Match relevant data and begin colour coding keywords
- Look through the intial findings of the coding, and move in iterative cycles
- If possible discuss the coding scheme with supervisors or peers to ensure the codes
to be correct
- Choose the best quotes and list them in a word fil to gather an overview
3. Searching for themes for the initial and emergent codes
- Themes are focused on fitting within the context of the research questions thus
being divided into challenges, enablers and integrators. Further themes and related
codes are derived from key concepts in the literature and framework within
chapter 3
- The themes should if possible be review by peers or the researchers supervisor to
ensure fit
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4. Reviewing the themes
- Check if the themes correspond data gathered
- Ensure that the themes fit within the context of the purpose of the study
5. Defining and naming the themes
- Continue working iteratively to refine the specifics within each theme
- Define themes through refinement of the overall picture of the analysed data
- Generate clear names for each themes, making them coherent and understandable
for people outside of the research topic
6. Producing the report
- Select vivid and captivating segments of the data and keep track of them in
designated excel file
- Complete the analysis through the use of supporting quotes to strengthen
- Produce a report out of the results of the best quotes
Example of collating code-keywords using colour to get an overview
Commented [MBJ265]: diversity Commented [MBJ275]: fit
Commented [MBJ266]: fit Commented [MBJ276]: personalisation
Commented [MBJ267]: sizing Commented [MBJ277]: customisation
Commented [MBJ268]: feeling Commented [MBJ278]: personalisation through wear
Commented [MBJ269]: open minded Commented [MBJ279]: ageing beautifully
Commented [MBJ270]: continous wear Commented [MBJ280]: tells story about the consumer
Commented [MBJ271]: attachment Commented [MBJ281]: fit
Commented [MBJ272]: fit Commented [MBJ282]: inclusivity
Commented [MBJ273]: storytelling Commented [MBJ283]: people are different
Commented [MBJ274]: emotional value Commented [MBJ284]: alteration
VI. EXISTING INITIAL CODES AND FRAMEWORKS FROM THE
LITERATURE
Key Challenges from the reviewed literature
- Current fashion system (Allwood et al. 2015; EllenMacArthurFoundation 2017;
Popescu 2018)
- Economic situation (Cooper et al. 2013a; Cotton et al. 2020; Remy et al. 2016)
- Lack of consumer knowledge (Niinimäki & Hassi 2011)
- Planned obsolescence (Chapman 2015; London 1932; Neto & Ferreira 2020;
Packard 1964)
- Stimulating product attachment (Chapman 2015; Ghim & Shin 2020)
Key Enablers from the reviewed literature
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- Physical durability (Cooper 2010; Cooper et al. 2013b; Fletcher 2015b)
- Fit (Laitala & Boks 2012; McNeill & Snowdon 2021; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011;
Niinimäki & Koskinen 2015)
- Transparency and traceability (Chapman 2015; Neto & Ferreira 2020; Norman
2004)
- Storytelling (Chapman 2015; Fletcher 2015a)
- Building narrative (Chapman 2015; Haines-Gadd et al. 2018)
- Graceful ageing (Chapman 2015; Fletcher & Grose 2012; Harper 2017)
- Product Service systems
o Modular design (Chapman 2015; Mugge et al. 2005; van Nes & Cramer
2005)
o Customisation (Cramer 2011; Haeggblom & Budde 2021; Laitala &
Klepp 2011; Mugge et al. 2009; Neto & Ferreira 2020; Niinimäki & Hassi
2011; van den Berge et al. 2020)
o Personalisation Cramer 2011; Haeggblom & Budde 2021; Laitala &
Klepp 2011; Mugge, Schoormans & Schifferstein 2009; Neto & Ferreira
2020; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011; van den Berge, Magnier & Mugge 2020)
o Repair & alteration (Allwood et al. 2015; Cooper et al. 2013a; Fletcher
2017; Goworek et al. 2018; Mugge 2018; Niinimäki & Hassi 2011)
Key Integrators from the reviewed literature
Design thinking theory (CentreforSustainableFashion 2021; Geissdoerfer et al. 2016; IDEO
nd)
- Problem solving
- Human centeredness
- Innovation
- Design as a starting point
- Brainstorm
- Iteration
- Feedback loops
- Knowledge sharing
- Collaboration
- Creativity
- Pilot testing
- Build partnerships
9.2 Appendix 2 – Glossary for sub-themes
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SUB-THEME SUB-THEME DESCRIPTION FROM
EMPERICAL FINDINGS
CHALLENGES
INFLUX OF NEW Associated with the fast fashion system, where there’s a continuous stream of
new things, which is facilitating over consumption
LACK OF TIME Associated with the time constraints many people within fashion companies are
put under to keep up with the fast pace of the industry
ECONOMIC SITUATION Associated with the system being set up and being dependant on selling
products to be economically viable
LACK OF KNOWLEDGE Connected to the lack of knowledge within consumers on how to care and repair
garments to ensure longevity
DISPOSABLE MINDSET Connected with consumer mindset, where disposable fashion has become the
norm
STIMULATING PRODUCT
ATTACHMENT
Associated with the aspect that it can be challenging to stimulate product
attachment
ENABLERS
QUALITY Product features that are associated with the quality leading to durability
CIRCULAR MINDSET Associated with including a circular mindset for products to ensure PD and a
good end of life solution
SIZING, DIVERSITY &
INCLUSION
Associated with the size of clothing to be inclusive to ensure that garment fit
the consumers well, and further associated with diversity to facilitate all shapes
and sizes
CONTINUOUS WEAR Connected with focusing on getting the fit right will ensure continuous wear
which can build product attachment
ALTERATION Associated with the aspect of having the possibility to alter a product to fit.
CONSUMER EDUCATION Associated with communication which facilitates consumer education and
knowledge to ensure proper care of products
STORY TELLING Associated with communication which tells stories and builds narrative
regarding to products, act to inspire and communicate with consumers
TRANSPARENCY Associated with giving the consumers as much information as possible about
the products
PRODUCT SERVICE SYSTEMS Associated with a range of services including customisation, repair & rental
which can enable ED.
FUNCTIONALITY Product features which ensure the functionality of a product, this can include
modular and multifunctional aspects which allows for evolvement of the
product
GRACEFULLY AGEING Product features which ensure that the product ages and the signs of wear are
celebrated
INTEGRATION
IDEATION Associated with the ideation phase which is needed when designing new
products/services which takes place during the empathise- and define phase.
Ideation can help overcome obstacles within the design processes.
KNOWLEDGE CREATION Corresponding to the knowledge which comes from cross-disciplinary
exchanges to create change within the industry, which can help clarify purpose
in definition phase
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INNOVATION Connected to ideation through experimenting with new methods, utilising new
methods to create a change, by including innovation. Innovations are tried out
in the test phase and iterated for refinement.
FEEDBACK LOOPS Associated with feedback between departments but also with consumers, which
links to iteration of products. These feedback loops are set up to ensure
continuous feedback
BRAINSTORM Associated with exploration and development of new ideas to help clarify
purpose, this is mostly done during the starting process of a project. Co-creative
brainstorming can develop broader perspectives and more ideas which can be
explored.
ITERATIVE PROCESS Associated with processes of iteration to refine and evaluate products and
services, which is a continuous process in the steps of DT g.
PROBLEM SOLVER Associated with the process of solving problems, which is the aim of DT g,
where the focus is on holistic thinking, while having a human-centered core.
DESIGN AS A STARTING
POINT
Associated with design being the starting point for integration of ED through
DT g
INNOVATIVE MINDSET Connected with designer’s innovative mindset, which includes capabilities to
connect human needs and desires with new opportunities and innovation from
business, science and technology.
Visiting address: Allégatan 1 · Postal address: 501 90 Borås · Phone: 033-435 40 00 · E-mail: registrator@hb.se · Webb: www.hb.se
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