fabric manufacturing (weaving preparation)

FABRIC MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY

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Md.Azmeri Latif BegMSc. in Textile Engineering(DIU)BSc. in Textile Engineering(CU)

Textile:A general term used from the latin textere “to weave.” Now a day it is used to describe all woven and knitted materials.

Fabric:Textile fabric may be define as an assembly of fiber, yarn or combination of these. There are several ways to manufacture a fabric.

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Weaving PreparationContent

WINDING Flow chart for weaving . Introduction to yarn preparation . Winding requirements , Different winding mechanism,

Precision & non-precision winding. Yarn tensioning devices. Winding efficiency, Winding defects & remedies. Calculation related to winding.

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WARPING

Warping techniques, Direct warping & sectional warping

Essential parts of warping machines & their function.

Faults in warping & their remedies. Calculation related to warping.

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SIZING

Sizing & Dressing, Ingredients of a size mixture & their function.

Technological changes due to sizing, Choice of sizing ingredients.

Size cooking, Short description of different techniques of sizing.

Method of drying, Defects in sizing & their remedies. Calculations related to sizing. Classification of loom, Classification & definition of

motions of loom.

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Flow chart of fabric manufacturing technology:

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Weaving: Weaving is the process of fabric manufacturing technology. The final product of weaving i .e. cloth or fabric is obtained by interlacing of warp & weft yarns disposed in perpendicular direction. The warp yarns are placed in the longitudinal in woven fabrics & the weft yarns are used for cross wise interlacing with the warp yarns. Cloth is produced on loom or weaving machine. Fabric or Cloth: Fabric is a technical term and cloth is a commercial term. A fabric is a manufactured assembly of f ibres or yarns that has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength.

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Types of fabric manufacturing:Generally three types of fabric are produced namely- 1.Woven fabric 2. Knitted fabric 3. Non woven Fabric. Woven Fabric : Woven fabric are composed of longitudinal or warp threads and transverse or weft threads interlaced with one another according to the class of structure and form of design that are desired.

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Knitted fabric: The fabric which is produced by one set of yarn by interlooping are called knitted fabric. 

Non woven fabric: Here fabrics are produced by connecting yarns with gummy substances or bonded material. Non wovens are flexible porous products consisting of one or more fibre layers. They are bonded by chemical or mechanical process into textile products.

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Yarn Preparation: The yarn which is collected from spinning section cannot be used in loom directly. Before using it in loom it is processed by many ways. These all are known as yarn preparation. Necessity of yarn preparation:1. To remove yarn fault.2. To transfer the yarn from spinners package to a convenient form of package that will facilitate weaving.3. To clean the yarn for better appearance & performance.4. To have desired length of yarn on the package.5. For better quality fabric.6. To make the yarn suitable for the next process.

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Quality of a good warp:

The essential features of a good warp are as follows:

1. Sufficiently & uniformly strong.2. Uniform in cross section.3. Less hairy & clean.4. Minimum number of knots.5. Standard size & types of knots.6. Parallel arrangement of warp yarn in the weavers beam.7. Free from neps, slubs & loose fibres.8. Uniform warp tension.

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Types of yarn package: a) Cone, b) cheese, c) Spool, d) Pirn, e) Cop, f) Beam , g) Flanged bobbin. Types of Package Winding:1.Parallel winding. e.g- a) Warp beam, b) Weavers beam.2.Near parallel winding. e.g-a) Pirn, b)

Cop, c) Flanged bobbin.3. Cross-winding. e.g- a) Cheese, b)Cone, c)Spool.

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Parallel winding:Two flanged contain both side of the package & yarns are wound parallel. In this process there is no necessity of traversing.

Figure: Parallel wound package

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Advantage:1. Many yarns can be wound at same time.2. No need of traversing mechanism.3. No change of yarn twist.4. Package is stable.5. Side way withdrawal is possible.

Disadvantage:1. Two sides of package need flange.2. For yarn unwinding need separate mechanism.3. Cannot be over withdrawal.

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Near parallel winding:This package contains only one yarn & yarn is wound near parallel. Layers contain continuously inner side of the package.

Advantage:1. No need of flange.2. Possible over-end withdrawal.3. No change of yarn twist.Disadvantage:1. Cannot be side withdrawal.2. This is not more stable.

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Cross wound package: This is wound crossly by single yarn.

Advantage: Disadvantage:1. No need of flange. 1. Yarn twist is change.2. Yarn package is very stable. 2. Balloon formed during unwinding.3. Over-end withdrawal. 3. Need traversing mechanism.

03/14/15 Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden)

B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)

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Precision Winding:

When the successive coils of yarn on the package laid close together & parallel or near parallel with each other, then it is possible to produce a very dense package in which maximum amount of yarn is stored in a given volume is called precision winding.

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Feature:* Packages are wound with a reciprocating traverse.*Patterning or ribboning causes damage of package.* Package contains more yarns.* Low stability of package.* Hard & more compact.* Flanged may be used.* Dense package.* Unwinding process or rate is low & process is harder.* The wound coil is arranged parallel or near parallel.

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Non-precision winding:This type of package consists of single thread which is laid on the package at appreciable helix ( cross) angle so that the larger cross one another & give stability & a less dense package is produced is called non-precision winding.

03/14/15 Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden)

B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)

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Tensioning device:The device which is used to give the yarn proper tension during winding is called tensioning device.

Importance or effect of tensioning device:1. Too high tension:* Can damage the yarn.* Breakage rate may greater.* Elongation property of yarn may change.* Weaken the thin places of yarn.* Hard package.

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2. Too low tension:* Permit unstable or loose package.* Slough off happened during unwinding.

3. Variation of yarn tension in different parts of wound packages can cause undesirable effect.

4. For man made filament yarn:* Can cause molecules changed.* Variation in color shading.

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Various types of tension device (According to working principle):Capstan method:It is a simple form of yarn tensioner. It works by merely deflection the yarn around the fixed parts. This induces a capstan effect. Output tension= input tension X eµθ

Or, T2=T1 X eµθ

Where, T1= input tension, T2= output tension θ1 θ2 θ3

μ= coefficient of friction between yarn & post. θ= Angle of lap (in radian) = θ1+θ2+θ3

e= 2.718

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2. Additive method:In this device a dead load or spring is used to give a fixed increment of tension. The yarn is passed through middle of the two surfaces in contact & the force is applied above to give suitable tension to the yarn.Here, T2=T1 + 2μFWhere, T1= input tension T2= output tension μ= coefficient of friction between yarn & post F= applied force.

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3. Combined method:It is the combined system of capstan & additive tensioner. The device permits the tension level to be raised to any desired extent, but it does not permit a reduction in tension.Here, ,T2=T1eµθ+ T1 + 2μFWhere, T1= input tension T2= output tension μ= coefficient of friction between yarn & post. θ= Angle of lap (in radian) = θ1+θ2+θ3

e= 2.718

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4. Automatic Method:This is special type of tesioner . In this device the yarn tension is controlled automatically. There is a lever which one side contain spring loaded disc & another side contain applied load. If yarn tension is very high then applied load decreased & spring loaded device control tension moving upwards. Again if yarn tension is low then applied load increased & spring loaded disc back its proper level (downwards) & thus control the tension.

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Factor influences for selection of tensioner or Requirement of tensioning device:

* The device must be reliable to control uniform tension.* It must be easily threaded.* It must neither introduce nor magnify tension variation.* It must not introduce differences in twist.* It must not be affected by the presence of oil & dirt.* It must be easily adjustable.* It must not encourage the collection of dirt & lint.* It must be capable of easy cleaning.* The operating surfaces must be smooth.* It must be cheap.* It must be simple in design & operation.* It must not damage for yarn.

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Yarn Guides:In winding & unwinding it is necessary to

control the yarn path. For side withdrawn it is possible for the yarn to pass along a smooth

varying yarn path. But for over end withdrawal (due to the vibratory force present) the yarn must be controlled by placing guides along the yarn paths. Guides are normally made of hard

smooth steel or ceramic. 

Types of Yarn guides:Generally there are two types of yarn guides:-

1. A yarn end is required for threading. 2. A yarn end is not required for threading.

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1. A yarn end is required for threading:* Takes extra time for threading. * Yarn passed through the guide hole.

2. A yarn end is not required for threading:* Treading is very easy.* Operations time less.

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Yarn Clearer:Yarn clearer is the device which is used to remove the following faults of yarn in order to increase the yarn quality & weaving efficiency. Faults removed by yarn clearer:- * Thick & thin places in the yarn. * Slubs & neps. * Loose fibres. * Foreign materials. Types of yarn clearer: Mechanical type: Electronic type: 1. Ordinary metal sheet type. 1. Capacitance type2. Comb type. 2. Solar type.3. Ordinary metal slit type. 4. Blade type (mostly used).5. Disc type.6. V-type. Uses of yarn clearer:1. Different types of winding machine.2. Before the beaming of warp or weavers beam.

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Yarn withdrawal or Unwinding:Unwinding process of yarn from a package is called withdrawal of yarn. There are two types of withdrawal: 1. Sideway withdrawal. 2. Overend withdrawal. Sideway withdrawal: Overend withdrawal:1. Package rotates. 1. Stationary package.2. Occur for flanged bobbin. 2. No flange bobbin is used.3. Yarn twist become unchanged. 3. Yarn twist may changed.4. No balloon formation. 4. Balloon formed during withdrawal.5. Slow process. 5. High speed process.

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Ballooning: The appearance of the curved paths of running yarns during spinning, doubling or winding on or while they are being withdrawal over-end from packages under appropriate yarn winding conditions e.g; when yarn is withdrawal through a guide ( often called balloon eye) placed above and in the line with the axis of the package at an adequate distance from it. The yarn (travelling at sufficient yarn winding speed) assumes the appearance of a balloon shape as it is revolves during withdrawal from a package. This is called ballooning.

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Balloon size and shape depend on the following factors: 1. Count of the yarn: Finer the count - higher the balloon size. Coarser the count - lower the balloon size.

2. Winding and unwinding speed: Higher the speed - higher the balloon size.

3. Size and shape of the package: Larger the package - greater the balloon.

4. Position of the guide: Greater distance - higher the balloon size.

5. Lift of the package: Larger package - greater the balloon size.

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Auxiliary Function in Winding:The auxiliary function may be performed manually or automatically.The auxiliary function includes:1. Creeling.2. Piecing.3. Doffing.

# Creeling: This is transfer operation. Transfer the empty packages & placing the full packages is called creeling. # Piecing: Piecing is the finding & connecting of ends of yarn on the package. The connecting ends can be made by knotting, adhesion or welding. # Doffing: Doffing is full removal of full package by empty package in delivery side.

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Method of Driving:Method of package driving are:

1. Surface contact drivrng or indirect driving.2. Directly package driving at constant r.p.m.3. Directly package driving at variable r.p.m.

 Surface contact drivrng or indirect driving:

In this system package is placed with in the surface contact of a drum or a roller. Due to this placement the winding process is held by the frictional

force & hence the yarn becomes twisted, this is the main disadvantage of this method. Diameter of the package is inversely proportional to the r.p.m. of the

bobbin & the drum gets drive from a motor.

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Directly package driving at constant r.p.m:

In this method package is placed up in a spindle & by the help of a roller the spindle gets drive. Yarn is passed through a guide for winding in a package. Here spindles/packages r.p.m are constant. So diameter of package is directly proportional to yarn take up rate. Fort this reason yarn gets tension & there occurs always breakage tendency. Yarn is not twisted in this method.

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Directly package driving at variable r.p.m:

In this method the yarn package is driven directly at variable speed, to give constant yarn take up speed, it is necessary to cause the rotational speed to vary inversely with the package diameter.

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TRAVERSE MOTION:By the help of motion when a dynamic part of a machine moves in to & fro motion, then this movement is called traverse motion. In the package winding by the help of this motion yarn is wound evenly in a package & the movement distance is called traverse length. This distance can be change as our requirement by mechanical or electrical process. Traverse method are mainly two types: 1. Reciprocating motion &2. Rotating motion.

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Reciprocating motion:By the help of this motion moving parts of a machine is passed a fixed distance& with in a several time it back its starting position. Reciprocating motion is given by the help of cam. A traversing rod is connected with the cam. By the relation of the cam the moving parts of the machine gets to & fro motion.

This motion is performed in two mechanisms:1. A single guide rod & cam for many winding spindle.2. A guide rod & cam for each spindle.

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2. Rotating Traverse motion: Rotating traverse motion is completed its motion by the rotation of a grooved drum. On the surface of drums there contains grooved shape & yarn package is wound & rotates with the surface contact of grooved drum.

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AZMIR LATIF. M.Sc in Textile (DIU) B.Sc

in Textile (CU)

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Manual Machine:

Features:1. Knotting is done manually.2. Creeling is done manually.3. Low speed, so less production.4. High labour cost.5. Less initial cost.6. Almost no fault removing capacity.7. Not economic.

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Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile

(Sweden) B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)

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Automatic Winders with travelling spindle sequence of operation:

1. The winding head comes up to the magazine and winding stops.2. The empty bobbin is ejected.3. The full bobbin is feed in.4. The threads from the bobbin and the cone are then knotted together and the loose ends cut off.5. The winding heads continuous to move forward and commences winding again.6. During the traverse on the endless chain, the head continuous to wind and when it comes to the magazine, the used bobbin replaced by a full one regardless of whether the original one was completely empty or not.7. Winding is stopped as the winding heads pass round the ends of the machine because of the difficulties in driving them.

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Automatic Winders with Non-travelling spindle:Features:

1. Central monitoring system.2. Wide range of information can be achieved.3. The machine can be divided into maximum eight groups.4. Tension can be regulated automatically.5. Fault can be removed at desired level.6. Splicing is done automatically.7. Splicing zone diameter can be check by sensor.8. Full stop motion.9. Automatic doffing.10. Automatic creeling.11. High speed & low labour cost.12. High initial cost.13. Very much sensitive, so special care.14. One unit can removed for maintenance.

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Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile

(Sweden) B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)

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Pirn winding machine:

Features:1. The supply package is large & output package is small.2. Almost no fault removing capacity.3. No rejoining.4. The traverse has the characteristic of an oscillation in which the package diameter is controlled continuously.5. It necessary to build bunch.

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Fault & Defect in winding:

1. Cut yarn: Causes are a) Damage drum surface, b) sharp edge.2. Jali formation: Causes are a) Large variation in tension, b) Excessive ply of package.3. Excessive hard or soft package: Due to high or low tension of yarn.4. Tendency to slough off: Causes are a) Excessive speed, b) Soft package.5. Snarl: Causes are a) Highly twisted yarn, b) Excessive slackness of yarn during knotting.6. Soft nose or base: Causes are a) Incorrect alignment of the axis of the package with the drum.

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Winding parameters:

1. Package surface velocity- m/min.2. Net winding rate- m/min.3. Winding on dia-cm.4. Angle of wind-degree.5. Traverse velocity or rate.

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CHAPTER - WARPING Warping:The parallel winding of yarn from cone or cheese packages on to a warp beam is called warping. Object of Warping: 1. To wound up fixed (required) length of yarn on to a warp beam. 2. To increase the weavability of yarn. 3. To make dynamic next process. 4. To increase production. 5. To increase quality of fabric. 6. To make re-useable small packages. 7. To make convenient yarn sheet for sizing process.

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Importance of Warping:1. Construction of a beam of warp yarn.2. Constructing parallel yarn sheet.3. Winding the predetermined length of yarn.4. Combination of small packages.5. Finding long length of warp.6. Accelerating next process.7. Minimize the yarn faults.

Requirements of warping:Warping should meet the following requirement-1. The tension of all wound ends must be uniform & possibly constant during the withdrawal.2. Warping should not impair the physical properties of yarn.3. The surface of the warping package should be cylindrical.4. A predetermined length of yarn should be wound.5. The production rate of warping should be as high as possible.

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Types of warping:Normally two types of warping are used-1. Sectional warping or pattern warping.2. High speed warping or direct warping. Besides these there are some special types of warping such as-a) Ball warpingb) Cross warping.c) Chain warping.The withdrawal of ends from a warping creel and their assembly in rope form, a form that may conveniently be used for wet processing. For convenience of handling, this rope may be-I) Wound on to a ball (called Ball warping).II) Machine wound on to a wooden roller into a X-ball cheese (called cross ball warping)III) Shortened into a link chain (chain warping)

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Sectional warping or pattern warping:A process of preparing warp beam over two stages, first winding the yarn in tapered drum and then rewinding the warp yarn on to the beam this is called sectional warping. Features of Sectional warping or pattern warping:1. To produce fancy fabric (stripe or check).2. A tapered beam or drum is used for section wise different colored yarn wound.3. Two stage involved. 4. Production is less.5. Costly process

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Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in Textile

(BUTEX)

Sectional Warping Machine

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Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in Textile

(BUTEX)

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High speed warping or direct warping:In high speed warping the yarn is parallel wound on a warping beam. All the yarns are wound at once & a simple flanged beam is used. High speed warping is usually regarded as a high speed process particularly suitable for single color. Features of high speed warping or direct warping:1. To produce common fabrics in large quantities.2. To produce weavers from single yarn.3. Size is introduced at the next process called sizing.4. The weavers beam is produce after sizing.5. High speed , high production.

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Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in Textile

(BUTEX)High Speed Warping Machine

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Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden) B.Sc in Textile

(BUTEX)

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Warping Machine:Warping machine can be divided into two parts:-1. Creel2. Headstock. Creel: A structure for mounting supply packages in textile processing. It is situated behind the headstock in an upright position. Classification of Creel:1. Single end Creel. a) Track creel (Creel moves) b) Duplicated creel (Headstock moves)2. Magazine creel.3. Traveling creel.

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Single end creel: Single package is associated with each end being wound on beam. The creel packages contain same amount of yarn to produce an integral no of beams.

Magazine creel: Magazine creel is a multiple package creel. Two packages are used for winding on beam. The tail of first package is tied with the loading end of the second package.

Traveling creel: In traveling creel the package carriers move in loops. Here while the yarns outside the loops being with drawn the inside yarns are creeled at a time.

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Components of Creel:1. Yarn Clearer: To remove various faults of yarn like slubs, neps etc.2. Stop device: To stop the machine when yarn will be broken.3. Indicator: To indicate yarn breakage in package.4. Tensioner: To keep the yarn always in a uniform tension.5. Yarn Guide: To pass though the yarn in the required way.6. Package Base & Stand: To hold the winding package.7. Blower or Suction fan: To remove the dirt & dust from the yarn.

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Components of Headstock:1. Adjustable or Variable V- reed: To control the width of the warp beam.2. Measuring & Marking device: Measuring the amount of warp yarn on the beam & marks the yarn for definite use.3. Yarn speed controlling device: To control the speed of yarn provided with meter.4. Pneumatic or Hydraulic pressure unit: To press the warp beam with the surface contact of driving drum.5. Break assembly: It stops the machine instantly in case of yarn breakage.6. Driving drum: Beam is in contact & control with driving drum.7. Stop motion: It is used to stop the machine after required length is wound on beam.8. Beam bracket: To support & hold the beam.

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Faults & remedies in warping:1. Warp off centre of the beam: If the creel wraith & flanged beam is not carefully placed this type of fault may occur . So it should be placed properly.2. Ridgy or Uneven surface of the warp beam: This defect due to:- a) Winding of small no. of ends on longer beam. b) When yarn of mixed count wound. c) When the dents are bent.To overcome this types of faults use large no. of ends & uniform count the dents should be uniformly spaced.3. Cross ends: During creeling if yarn is broken then the cross ends is formed. To minimize there should be in proper tension.4. Snarl in the warp: It forms for over tension & twisting. So it should be given proper tension & twist.5. End missing: After breaking yarn if stop motion does not work during warping often two or more yarns are missed. 6. End broken down: During warping if yarn is broken down then this fault is occurred. To minimize this fault yarn to be joined carefully.7. Hard beam: Hard beam is formed if contact between drum & beam is not in moderate pressure. So pressure should be moderate.

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CHEPTER-SIZING

Size: A gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion applied normally to warp but sometimes to weft, generally before weaving is called size.

Sizing: A method of applying a gelatinous film forming substance on warp is sizing. This is the most important operation to attain maximum weaving efficiency especially for blended & filament yarns. It is called the heart of weaving.

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Object of sizing:

1. To improve the weaveability of warp yarn by making it more resistant to action of weaving ie, absorption, friction, tension & flexing.2. To maintain good fabric quality by reducing hairiness, weakness & by increasing smoothness, absorbency of yarn.3. To improve the tensile or breaking strength of cellulosic yarns.4. To increase the elasticity.5. To increase the weight of yarn.6. To increase the frictional resistance.7. To remove the projected fibres.8. To reduce electrostatic formation for synthetic or blend yarn.

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Requirement of sizing:

1. Sized warp must be sufficiently strong, smooth & elastic.2. The sizing process must ensure the application of the required amount of size on the yarn or the required size regain.3. The tensions of warp yarn at sizing must be regular & constant during all the warp unwinding from the warping beams.4. Yarn strength & loss in elongation should be a within admitted limits.5. The package ie, the weavers beams produced, must be have a cylindrical shape, the necessary winding density & yarn strength.6. The sizing process must be efficient, economical & must ensure the production of high quality sized warps.

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Choice of Size ingredient:

1.It should give least amount of dust produce.2. It should permits easy size removal in latter operation.3. It should give good fabric characteristics.4. The recipe should be compatible with the machinery.5. The recipe should not cause any health hazard.6. The recipe should not cause any degradation of textile material.7. It should be cheap.8. PH should be lies between 7-7.4(neutral condition

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Size ingredients & their function:

1. Adhesive: Generally starch of maize, corn, rice, potato & CMC, PVA, PVC are used as adhesive. Tamarin is used as adhesive on jute yarn. The adhesive is granule form is mixed water & heated to form a paste which ultimately becomes viscous fluid. Function: a) To improve strength. b) To improve abrasion resistance. c) To increase extensibility. 2. Lubricant or Softener: Mineral oil, linseed oil, coconut oil, vegitable oil,tallow, japan wax,vegitable wax are used as a lubricant. Function: a) To make the yarn soft & slippery. b) To reduce stiffness.

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3. Antiseptic or Antimildew agent: Salicylic acid, Zinc chloride, phenol carboxylic acid are used as antiseptic agent. Function: a) It helps to store the yarn without damage. b) Protect yarn from bacteria or fungus formation. 4. Deliquescent or Hygroscopic Agent: Glycerin, calcium chloride, are used as deliquescent agent. Function: a) Prevent brittleness of size. b) Helps to keep standard moisture regain.5. Weighting agent: China clay, French chalk, sodium phosphate are used as weighting agent. Function: a) Increase weight of yarn.

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6. Wetting agent: Magnesium chloride, avirol, sulphanol A are used as wetting agent. Function: a) Helps to wet yarn instantly. 7. Tinting agent: Blue is used as tinting agent. Function: a)To increase lusture or brightness. 8. Antifoaming agent: Benzene, pyridine are used as antifoaming agent. Function:

a)To prevent foam formation.

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Technological change due to Sizing:1. Increase abrasion resistance.2. Increase breaking strength.3. Increase yarn smoothness.4. Increase yarn stiffness.5. Increase yarn elasticity.6. Increase actual diameter but decrease apparent diameter.7. Increase frictional resistance.8. Decrease yarn hairiness.9. Decrease yarn extension.10. Decrease static electricity formation.

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Types of sizing:

1. Pure sizing: This types of sizing is done for unbleached fabric. 3-10% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.

2. Light sizing: This types of sizing is used for Dyeing & Printing of

woven fabric. 11-15% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.

3. Medium sizing: This types of sizing is used for increase of strength

& weight of fabric. 16-40% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.

4. Heavy sizing: This types of sizing is used for increase the weight twisted & lower count yarn. Above 40% size ingredients are used on the weight of fabric.

03/14/15 Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden)

B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)

Size take up percentage: The amount of size material added on the yarn surface is called size take up .

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Size take up percentage depends on:

1. Higher twist: lower take up percentage.2. Finer count: Lower take up percentage.3. Higher concentration: Higher take up percentage.4. Higher viscosity: Higher take up percentage.5. Lower flexibility: Higher take up percentage.6. Higher immersion length: Higher take up percentage.7. Higher squeeze roller pressure: Lower take up percentage.8. Higher yarn speed: Lower take up percentage.9. Higher staple length: Lower take up percentage.10. Crystalline fibre: Lower take up percentage.11. Amorphous fibre: Higher take up percentage.

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Techniques of sizing:

* Slasher sizing * Emulsion sizing* Foam sizing* Hot melt sizing* Electrostatic sizing* High pressure sizing* Combined sizing* Solvent sizing.

03/14/15 Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden)

B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)

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Slasher sizing: The slasher sizing machine is consists of the following seven units:1. Back Beam Unit2. Sizing Unit.3. Drying Unit4. Cooling Unit.5. Dividing Unit6. Measuring & Marking Unit.7. Beaming Unit.

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Back beam unit:The unit contains frame which carries 8-20 beams to get wound, which may be arranged in various ways.Sizing unit: This unit contains guide roller, tension roller, size box, immersion roller, sizing roller, squeezing roller. Size recipe is reserved in reserved box & apply it on the yarn. Guide roller guides the yarn & tension roller maintains the uniform tension on yarn. The size box is used to apply the size liquor to the yarn. The size liquor is kept in size box. The warp sheet is guided through the solution by means of immersion roller. The squeeze roller removes excess size from the yarn.

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Drying unit: It contains of heated cylinder over which warp sheet passes. There may be two or multi cylinder. Heated cylinder dries the yarn.Cooling unit: This unit has cooling fan & guide roller. Cooling fan supplies cool air to dried warp sheet to cool it.Dividing unit: In order to prevent adhesion between yarns, it is necessary to separate each sized ends from the others. For this purpose lease rod is used.Measuring & Marking device: In this unit the length which is sized is measured by measuring roller & marked at a given distance.Beaming unit: Finally sized warp is wound on a weavers beam.

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Drying System:1. Cylinder drying : a) Two cylinder, b) Multi cylinder.2. Hot air drying.3. Infrared drying.4. Combined drying.

Size cooking equipments:1. Motor.2. Agitator: Size ingredients are mixed with the help of agitator in mixing tank.3. Mixing tank: here size ingredients are mixed. 4. Pump: After mixing size mixer transfer to storage tank by pump.5. Storage tank: Size mixer are store in storage tank.

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Size Cooking:1. Ordinary cooking.2. Pressure cooking.

Ordinary cooking:a. Add required amount of water.b) Add required antiseptic with stirring.c) Gradually add starch and stir for 30-45 min.d) Continue steaming until correct viscosity is obtained.e) Stop steaming.f) Adjust PH between 6-8 by adding acid or alkali.g) Transfer the size solution to the reserve tank and maintain temperature at 600 C.

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Pressure Cooking:a. Add required amount of water.b) Add required antiseptic with stirring.c) Gradually add starch and stir for 30-45 min.d) Start steaming and raise temperature up to 1300 C.e) Add softener.f) Continue steaming until correct viscosity is obtain.g) Stop steaming.h) Adjust PH between 6-8 adding acid or alkali.i) Transfer the size solution to the reserve tank and maintain temperature at 600C.

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Faults in sizing:1. Sticky warp.2. Gum spot.3. Under slashed yarn.4. Over slashed yarn.5. Over dried yarn.6. Non uniform sizing.7. Cross or lost ends.8. Improper boiled of yarn.9. Incorrect warp length.10. Dirty warp.

Dressing: The process of jute sizing is called dressing.

03/14/15 Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden)

B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)

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LoomLoom: Loom is machine or device which is used to produce woven fabric. It is the central point of whole process of cloth production.

Classification of a Loom: Manual/Hand loom1. Primitive or Vertical loom.2. Pit loom: a) Throw shuttle. b) Fly shuttle.3. Frame loom: a) Throw shuttle. b) Fly shuttle.4. Chittaranjan loom. Power loom1. Conventional power loom: a) Ordinary power loom b) Automatic power loom2. Modern loom: a) Air jet loom

b) Water jet loom. c) Rapier loom. d) Projectile/Missile loom. e) Multiphase loom.

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Loom motions: There are three types of loom motions:- 1. Primary 2. Secondary.3. Tertiary.

Primary motions are: a) Shedding b) Picking c) Beating.Secondary motions are: a) Take-up b) Let-offTertiary motions are: a) Warp stop b) Weft stop c) Reed stop.

Drafting: The process of passing yarn through the drop wire is called drafting.Drawing: The process of passing yarn through the heald eye is called drawing.Denting: The process of passing yarn through the reed is called denting.

03/14/15AZMIR

03/14/15

03/14/15 AZMIR

03/14/15 Ahashan Habib. M.Sc in Textile (Sweden)

B.Sc in Textile (BUTEX)