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GERMANY FASHION
GERMANY
MARTINA RINK
FASHION
PRESTEL/ M U N I C H . LO N D O N . N E W Y O R K
Introduction · Martina Rink 8
Tomas Maier 12
Marko Matysik 14
Yasmin Heinz 18
Felix Lammers 20
Torsten Neeland 22
Angelica Blechschmidt 24
Susanne Tide-Frater 26
Jasmin Khezri 28
Josef Voelk and Emmanuel de Bayser 30
Olaf Hajek 32
Dirk Schönberger 34
Vanessa von Bismarck 35
Julia von Boehm 36
Kai Margrander 40
Jina Khayyer 42
Mumi Haiati 43
Kristian Schuller 44
Donald Schneider 48
Deycke Heidorn 52
Anna Bauer 54
Alex Wiederin 56
Silke Werzinger 60
Leyla Piedayesh 62
Jen Gilpin 64
Magomed Dovjenko 68
Julia Freitag 69
Schohaja 70
Rike Döpp 74
Thomas BenTz AND Oliver Lühr 75
Christoph Amend 76
Mirko Borsche 78
Boris Bidjan Saberi 82
Damir Doma 82
CONTENTS
Michael Sontag 83
Vladimir Karaleev 83
Raoul Keil 84
Saskia Diez 86
René Storck 87
Armin Morbach 88
Toni Garrn 92
Heidi Klum/Thomas Hayo 93
Annette and Daniela Felder 94
Alexandra von Rehlingen and Andrea Schoeller 96
Stefan Eckert 97
Susanne Oberbeck 98
Constantin Bjerke 100
Sascha Breuer 102
Philipp Plein 104
Andreas Ortner 106
Bettina Harst 108
Wolfgang Joop 110
Kera Till 112
Papis Loveday 113
Claudia Skoda 114
Alexandra Fischer-Roehler and Johanna Kühl 116
Esma Annemon Dil 118
Didi Ilse 119
Sandra Bauknecht 120
Alexx and Anton 122
Marcus Kurz 126
Burak Uyan 128
Corinna Springer 130
Kai Kühne 131
Marie Schuller 132
Vincent Peters 134
Andrea Karg 136
Louisa von Minckwitz 138
André Borchers 139
Petra van Bremen 140
Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof 142
Marco Stein 143
Johannes Huebl 144
Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul 146
Petra Bohne 148
Nini Gollong 149
Tatjana Patitz 150
Natalie Acatrini 151
Gladys Perint Palmer 152
Klaus Stockhausen 153
Dawid Tomaszewski 154
Dorothee Schumacher 156
Feride Uslu 158
Bernhard Willhelm 160
Tillmann Lauterbach 162
Karl Anton Koenigs 164
Diane Kruger 166
Sascha Lilic 167
Esther Haase 168
Veruschka 169
F. C. Gundlach 170
Bent Angelo Jensen 172
Tom Rebl 174
Markus Lupfer 176
Karla Otto 178
Jil Sander 181
Anita Tillmann 182
Thomas Steinbrück 183
Jürgen Geßler 184
Markus Mahren 186
Peter Lindbergh 190
Appendix
Biographies 197
Translation 205
Picture credits 206
AcknowledgEments 207
MARTINA RINK/ I N T R O D U C T I O N
Making of “Hello Martina, call me back when you have time!”
It was Peter Lindbergh’s pleasant voice with its Rhine-
land accent on my voicemail – I would never have
thought that a photographic legend could be so warm
and uncomplicated.
A book project is like a family. You live and work
together, the project develops and we develop with it.
Fashion Germany is an illustrated volume with many
highs and occasional lows. In the course of this project
I have met some wonderful people, many of whom,
with their contributions, have become part of this
book: a selection of the most fascinating and ground-
breaking fashion personalities that Germany has to offer,
nationally and internationally. Along with established
big names in the fashion world, this book features
young talents from all areas of fashion. What they all
have in common is the pursuit of new expression,
mastery and perfection.
There are many more people whom I would have liked
to introduce, but who for various reasons could not
participate – among them high-profi le personalities like
the legendary Helmut Newton, who sadly died in 2004.
All other creative minds will know that these lines are
meant for them!
MilestonesIt was thanks to Markus Mahren that I was able to
meet Peter Lindbergh in Berlin – a unique experience
that still fi lls me with gratitude today. Adrian J. Margelist
and I met at the MCM Pop-Up Store opening event in
Munich, thanks to Chris Häberlein, and we clicked
straightaway. I see books as “must-have” objects – the
same goes for MCM Accessories. This is exactly what
connects us and epitomizes this very special cooperation
between us all.
The star make-up artist Yasmin Heinz has told me
the naked truth at diffi cult moments, and a pure and
authentic friendship has developed between us as a
result of her honesty.
People like Josef Voelk and Emmanuel de Bayser
already believed in me without reservation when I was
involved in an earlier project, a book about Isabella
Blow. Since then they have supported me and allowed
me to present my works in a very special context, the
cult institution THE CORNER in Berlin.
Prestel also provides an ideal environment for me. It
is an honour to work with this publisher, where every-
thing is just right, particularly the team, into which
I was warmly welcomed thanks to Andrew Hansen,
and with whom I share a passion for creating books.
As a sign of confi dence, I was allowed to choose my
own designer and art director: Paul Sloman, who had
already successfully designed my fi rst book. I see Paul
and his talent as an essential ingredient for creating
successful books. The person who consistently arouses
my amazement and admiration is Prestel’s programme
manager Claudia Stäuble, the greatest organizational
talent I have ever known.
Magic picturesThe one very particular image by Andreas Ortner.
Once seen, it was immediately clear: that’s it, that’s
the cover! For months we couldn’t see enough of this
photo, and the publishers completely agree. What is so
special about this image is that one could interpret it
in so many ways: it fi ts with Germany, the blonde woman
could be any woman who embodies us nationally and
internationally. To top it all off is the closing section
with photos by Peter Lindbergh; Anna Bauer, who uses
Polaroids to record exceptional moments of the “who’s
who” in the industry; and highly talented photographers
such as Felix Lammers, Vincent Peter and many others.
When I receive emails from my guest authors and open
the attached images, I get a tingling sensation as if I
were opening Christmas presents.
ChallengeMy goal is to see German fashion and the people
behind it from a different perspective – all the suc-
cessful designers, photographers, hair and make-up
artists, models, PR agents, buyers, bookers, art
directors, creative directors, illustrators and other
outstanding personalities who are active worldwide,
on both sides of the footlights. Germany is often
underestimated with respect to fashion. There are
some incredibly talented people in this country who
are internationally successful and work all year round
at the top of their profession without receiving much
public attention. I would like to help free Germany from
its unassuming undercover image and reveal the large
pool of individual creativity that exists. We are recog-
nized for qualities such as punctuality, precision, accu-
racy. What is becoming increasingly clear is our ability
to successfully take on leading roles.
German companies, it is said, are not fashion-friendly.
There are exceptions. The fl agship corporation Mercedes-
Benz offers a spectacular catwalk to German and
international stars and designers in Berlin, and sends
out invitations worldwide to shows in Miami, Istanbul,
Stockholm and New York. People who are on the same
wavelength meet, visions are shared and something
magical and new comes into being. This process must
not stop; our talents are being cultivated abroad, and
perhaps soon we will be able to welcome them back
to Germany.
About
All I can do is books. Books that don’t sit on the shelf
gathering dust but can be admired in beautiful public
places or on a private coffee table. Books that trigger
emotions thanks to the successful teamwork of all who
participate. I make books with soul, with quite individual
ingredients. When I begin a book, I already see it in my
mind’s eye as a fi nished object. I don’t deviate much
from this image. I want to make books with staying
power. Books that accompany and shape people. I see
myself as a sort of conductor, someone who makes a
success out of bringing fabulous people together, like
a good party. I want to celebrate people and companies.
Earlier, I wanted to be a PR person. My mentor Isabella
Blow was always against it. She knew how to express
this in her own inimitable way: “You´ll never be a PR,
darling!” Just as well that I didn’t know how to use
Excel!!!
Opposite page top left: Harriet Verney, Martina Rink and Tim Noble;
top right: Jasmin Khezri and Martina Rink; bottom left: sketch by Karl
Lagerfeld for a piece of the Mon Dupont collection, which Lagerfeld
created exclusively for S.T. Dupont in 2011; bottom right: Martina Rink
and Josef Voelk
11
TOMAS MAIER/ C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R / B OT T E G A V E N E TA
What’s the fi rst thing that springs to mind when
you hear the words “fashion”, “luxury”, and
“Germany”?
Separately, these words have their own distinct – and
not necessarily related – meanings. When I think of
fashion I think of something meant for others, while for
me, luxury is private and personal. Germany is prove-
nance, and a place that inspires deep appreciation for
nature, craft and design.
Who or what inspires you?
I draw inspiration from a number of sources. I spend
a lot of time looking at art and architecture – visiting
galleries, museums and interesting buildings – and
am always inspired by what I see. Nature informs
my work, especially in terms of colour. But I’m also
inspired by the everyday, surrounded by people and
culture, and fi nd it’s simply a matter of keeping your
eyes open. It’s important for me to understand the
real-life needs of Bottega Veneta’s clients, so I’m always
watching how men and women live and function, day
to day.
What skills do Germans benefi t from in the inter-
national fashion industry?
I have a German’s inherent love of both nature and
craft – which were reinforced by the Waldorf school
I attended as a child. Nature serves as a virtually
limitless source of inspiration, and craft is essential to
the Bottega Veneta ethos. Yet I also believe that being
German in an industry that is heavily Italian and French
(and increasingly British and American) lends itself to a
slightly outsider perspective.
How important is craftsmanship in your life for
Bottega Veneta?
Craftsmanship is crucial to Bottega Veneta – it lies at
the heart of the brand. Everything we produce is made
by artisans of exceptional ability, training and commit-
ment. Personally, I believe craftsmanship is a link – to
history and tradition, to place and to one another.
Do you still work with companies in Germany?
If yes, which ones and for what products?
Collaborations are very important to our brand, and
a number of our products are in fact produced in collab-
oration with other very prestigious partners, such as
KPM Berlin for porcelain. Additionally, for fi ne jewellery,
we work with a small, renowned manufacturer, Victor
Mayer. As Bottega Veneta has evolved into a true
luxury lifestyle brand, we have sought partners who are
experts in their fi eld, and who share the same values as
we do, to effectively merge the vision I have for a new
category and the know-how of the partner. While both
are German, most importantly we felt the collaborative
efforts would result in products consistent with our
commitment to quality, craftsmanship, functionality
and timelessness.
What are your personal goals for the future?
I’m always looking to expand the Bottega Veneta
portfolio, with the introduction of new or augmented
product lines. This, of course, depends on the needs
and desires of our customers.
What is your secret for survival in the fashion
world?
There really isn’t one answer, though it’s important
to stand for something and then stay true to that
identity.
What does luxury mean to you?
I have always believed that luxury is defi ned by the
individual. For me, something is luxurious if it’s elusive,
of the highest quality possible and personally
meaningful.
When will you be in Germany next – for what
project or event?
I don’t have set plans at this moment but I hope to be
back very soon.
Top right: Craftsmanship at Bottega Veneta; bottom right: Tomas
Maier and Nine D’Urso behind the scenes of the shooting with
Bruce Weber for the women’s fragrance advertising campaign
13
MARKO MATYSIK/ A R T I S T
“Marko is an original, an embellishment for the fashion
world. He’s an asset not only as a creator of magical
clothes and whimsical accoutrements, but also as a
documenter in words and pictures. His books so
vividly capture the scene of the moment.”
Hamish Bowles (editor-at-large, Vogue USA, World of Interiors, May 2011
15
17
YASMIN HEINZ/ MAKE-UP ART I S T
Beauty comes from honesty and is always defi ning
itself anew. It comes from within; I am responsible
for the outside. But beauty does not mean perfection,
because that can quickly get boring, and I look out
for that. Being creative is the constant search for
expression and visions, as well as their realization.
I fi nd inspiration everywhere.
19
FELIX LAMMERS/ P H OTO G R A P H E R
21
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