first two years 2011
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© Project SOUND
Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden
Gardening with Western L.A. County Native Plants Project SOUND – 2011 (our 7th year)
© Project SOUND
The First Two Years in the Native Plant
Garden C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake
CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve
Madrona Marsh Preserve
August 20 & 23, 2011
…trust me, it’s even more scary for the plants!
Nursery life is heavenly:
Plenty of water
Nice, appropriate, well-drained potting soil
Extra nutrients
A little extra shade/ temperature control
Pest-free
Basically, a coddled life-style that allows many of them to survive infancy (as they rarely would in the wild)
© Project SOUND
What happens in nature? [Ceanothus]
Out in nature
A big disturbance – fire/etc. removes at least the shoots of existing plants
Plant Year 1 – with adequate rainfall seeds to sprout & establish new seedlings; root system develops
Plant Year 2 – chugging right along expanding roots & shoots
Plant Year 3 – pretty much established
In the new garden
A big disturbance – you remove existing plants
Plant Year 1 – the plant is established in the nursery – likely more water, nutrients than in nature
Plant Year 2/Garden Year 1 – you plant your new Ceanothus in the garden – what a shock! Some root/shoot growth
Plant Year 3/Garden Year 2 – developing good roots & shoots
Plant Year 4/Garden Year 3 – almost established
© Project SOUND
What is the ‘Establishment Phase’?
The period in which a new plant becomes relatively self-sustaining (when given it’s requirements) – a gradual process
Involves two aspects: Acclimating to the garden environment
Developing sufficient root structure to support and sustain the plant
Generally, the plant becomes 2-3 times its planting size during this Phase
Plants require extra care during the establishment phase
© Project SOUND
What is the ‘Establishment Phase’?
Length varies by species, but some general rules of thumb:
Annuals: 1-2 months
Herbaceous perennials: 1-3 years
Perennial grasses: 1-2 years
Local sub-shrubs: 1-2 years
Woody shrubs & trees: 2-5 years; the larger & slower-growing species take up to 5 years
© Project SOUND
What is required during the Establishment
Phase?
Increased observation – as with any baby
Extra water during dry periods – including prolonged winter dry spells and summer/fall
Decreased competition from other plants – most notably weeds
© Project SOUND
The growth cycle of S. CA native
perennial species (herbaceous to woody)
Fall/winter rains (Dec-Mar) Seeds germinate (many)
Begin above-ground stem growth
Leaf out (may be ‘spring’ leaves)
‘early’ flowering – some species
Spring warm/dry down period (Apr-June) Seed germination (warm weather)
Continue stem growth
Many will flower
© Project SOUND
Advantages to planting during the rainy
season
© Project SOUND
Saves water – soils are naturally moist (Water Zone 3) during the critical first few months
Vulnerable plants get the best water possible; dissolved oxygen & nutrients
Vulnerable plants are not exposed to temperature extremes (at least in the past)
Soils are well-saturated – promotes deep/wide root growth
Coincides with native plant’s normal growth cycle; plants are primed to grow at this time
Watering: the impact of
where we live
© Project SOUND http://www.water.ca.gov/wateruseefficiency/docs/wucols00.pdf
Region 3-South Coastal Climate Zones 22, 23 & 24
CIMIS ETo Zones 1, 2, 4 and 6
Region 4-South Inland Valleys and Foothills Climate Zones 18, 19, 20
and 21
CIMIS ETo Zone 9
The benefits – and challenges – of where we live
We can grow plants from a number of plant communities: Wetland/riparian
Northern coastal prairie/CSS
Southern coastal prairie
CSS
Chaparral
Southern oak woodland
Mojave & Sonoran deserts
We need to be aware of local weather patterns Winters may be overly dry – or wet
Plants from some communities need more water than we usually get – at least in the summer
© Project SOUND
Newly planted native plants should get a
thorough soaking
Soak new plants no matter what the planting season
The first watering is important – over-soak to settle the soil & remove air pockets
Overhead watering is fine – the plants will think it’s raining
© Project SOUND
Treat new plants as Water Zone 3 for the
first winter/early spring (through April)
© Project SOUND
http://royrector.com/garden/?p=124
http://www.ecofitt.ca/Products/WaterProducts/Lawn-and-Garden/Soil-Moisture-Meter
Rains may do the job
Check soil moisture, especially if we have: Long period (3+ weeks) with no
winter rains
Very hot periods (winter Santa Anas)
Strong winds (soil dries faster than you think)
Check beneath the surface (under mulch) - ~ 3-4 inches Dig down with trowel
Use a moisture meter or soil sampler
The first dry season is crucial - and challenging
‘Don’t under-water; plants can die before they become established’
‘Don’t over water! It leads to the death of many native plants; their roots suffocate & die of rot or disease.’
© Project SOUND
http://dharmaconsulting.com/products/accelerating-change/
We’ve been led to believe that all plants
grow like tropical plants…
© Project SOUND http://www.kriyayoga.com/love_blog/post.php/950
…and now the native plant ‘experts’ are trying to give us
the same 1-2-3 gardening rules
© Project SOUND
http://kmgardendesign.com/Portfolio-CANativeGarden.htm
Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get
their watering advice straight???
© Project SOUND
http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/
With CA native plants, one size does NOT fit all
Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get
their watering advice straight???
Your soils (and other relevant conditions) may be different
They may be talking about a different climate region (often N. CA)
They may be thinking about different species which have different water needs
© Project SOUND
You need to consider the
information source - and use the
Water Zone principles
http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/
© Project SOUND
Gardens in Mediterranean climates
(including S. CA) have three Water Zones
Zone 1 – no supplemental summer water; soils are dry in summer/fall.
Zone 2 – occasional summer water; soil is allowed to dry out between waterings. Watering is slow & deep to replenish the soil water stores. In most gardens, you will water deeply 1-2 times per month in summer.
Zone 3 – regular water; soil is usually moist to soggy, even in summer.
© Project SOUND
Water Zone
Description Picture Result/consequence (for mature plants)
Zone 1 No supplemental water
Many Zone 1 plants (including many native to western L.A. county & deserts) become summer dormant; some shade species remain green
Zone 2
Occasional water; soil dries out between deep waterings
Includes ‘CA Natives’ from many plant communities; occasional summer water helps many species to remain evergreen – many also extend bloom season
Zone 3 Regular water; soil moist/ soggy
Only native riparian and some mountain/N. CA species – will kill many local CA natives
Water Zone Principles for the first 2 years
‘Water to keep the plant alive, not to make it grow fast. Try to make the plant drought tolerant!’
‘Watering less often and more deeply to stimulate roots to grow deeper instead of on the surface where they will be susceptible to drying out.’
© Project SOUND
Interpretation: give more water
than the plant’s mature Water
Zone – but as close to it as
reasonable. Taper the amount
of water off as the root system
develops.
Interpretation: follow good
Water Zone practices (e.g. water
deeply and less frequently) even
during the first 2 years
Why more water during the first year?
Weaning from ‘nursery conditions’ which included plenty of water
Less cover/shade = higher evaporation rates
Less developed/ efficient root systems - < 10% of area covered by roots
© Project SOUND
No two gardens are alike: that’s why you
need to monitor your soil moisture
Check soil moisture every 1-2 weeks during the first year; water as needed using the ‘rules of thumb’
Remember: some areas may dry out more quickly
© Project SOUND
The only way you can assure that you are
watering correctly is to use the Water Zone
method and check your soils!
Watering rules of thumb -
the first 2 years
Year 1: First winter/spring – Zone 3
(rain alone may suffice)
First summer/fall – one full Water Zone more than it’s mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept unless it gets summer rain in nature
Year 2: Second winter/spring – water
only if rains are inadequate
Second summer/fall: Grasses & local native sub-
shrubs: mature Water Zone
All other perennial/woody species: ½ Zone above mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept. unless it gets summer rain in nature
© Project SOUND
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: occasional supplemental summer water
The best ways to supply water during the
first two years – S. CA gardens
Low frequency (1-4 times a month), long duration (4-12 hours) irrigation is best to thoroughly soak the soil.
Hose, drip, soaker hose or low volume "micro“ sprinkler are often good choices
Use overhead watering very carefully – don’t let leaves remain moist in warm weather
Do not water during the heat of the day. Try very early morning or evening (good in coastal areas)
© Project SOUND
http://lawncare.savvy-cafe.com/save-money-and-water-with-smart-lawn-and-garden-tips-2009-08-17/
http://www2.ljworld.com/photos/2009/aug/16/
© Project SOUND
Some more irrigation tips for watering young
native plants For individual plants, drip irrigation or hose watering is best. You can even use a ‘Homer Bucket’ for individual plants.
For large areas, micro-sprinklers or soaker hoses are best – good flexibility, control & coverage.
Don’t forget to move the irrigation out as roots grow; make sure that the entire root system gets wet.
Because conditions vary from garden to garden, and even within gardens, the best irrigation schedule is determined by watching your plants. Manually set each zone on the controller.
Relax: in well-drained soils, water is not typically an issue when the appropriate plants are chosen for the site (i.e., full sun, coastal...), and planting takes place during the cool, rainy season
This class is about teaching you ‘how to fish’
© Project SOUND
http://www.clipartheaven.com/show/clipart/kids_stuff/images_(a_-_f)/fishing-gif.html
Bunchgrasses –
Water Zone 1-2
Year 1: First winter/spring – Zone 3
(rain alone may suffice)
First summer/fall – one full Water Zone more than it’s mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept unless it gets summer rain in nature
Year 2: Second winter/spring – water
only if rains are inadequate
Second summer/fall: Grasses & local native sub-
shrubs: mature Water Zone
All other perennial/woody species: ½ Zone above mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept. unless it gets summer rain in nature
© Project SOUND
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: occasional supplemental summer water
Deergrass – Muhlenbergia rigens
Why do bunchgrasses mature quickly
(have a short establishment Phase)?
Perennial grasses tend to grow quickly – they establish an extensive root system the first year
They tend to have relatively deep roots (3+ feet) compared to non-native lawn grasses
S. CA bunchgrasses tolerate dry conditions really well
© Project SOUND
http://www.pitzer.edu/offices/arboretum/tongva_gard
en/plants/19-Muhlenbergia_rigens.htm
The growth cycle of S. CA native
perennial species (herbaceous to woody)
Dry period (June/July-Nov) Stem elongation (slower; may be
‘summer’ type growth pattern)
Foliage: effect depends on species Evergreen plants usually produce no
new leaves – but retain leaves
Many plants in some plant communities (Coastal Sage Scrub; Coastal Prairie; Coastal shrubland) are drought deciduous
Some plants from these communities produce special ‘summer leaves’ that may remain on the plant until late summer
May leaf out & even flower if summer rains/watering occur
© Project SOUND
Why this variability & what
does it mean for watering?
A comparison of two shrubs
Coastal Sage Scrub Black Sage – Salvia mellifera
Chaparral Bigpod Ceanothus – C. megacarpus
© Project SOUND
Black Sage – Salvia mellifera
A “CA coastal plant”
Coastal ranges from San Jose to Baja
Channel Islands and Baja coastal islands
on South and West facing slopes on rocky soil in California's coastal sage scrub and chaparral plant communities
Often in slightly wetter sites than other native Salvias
Common; may form dense thickets in wild
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?4745,4865,4880
http://www.swsbm.com/Maps/Salvia_mellifera.gif
Black Sage is one tough plant – and part of the reason is it’s summer dormancy!!!!
http://www.cnps.org/programs/vegetation/Coyote_Ridge/images/10a_Artemisia_californica-Salvia_mellifera_SS.jpg
Watering rules of thumb: Black Sage – Salvia mellifera –
Zone 1-2 Year 1:
First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain alone may suffice)
First summer/fall – one full Water Zone more than it’s mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
Year 2: Second winter/spring – water only
if rains are inadequate
Second summer/fall: Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:
mature Water Zone
All other perennial/woody species: ½ Zone above mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
© Project SOUND
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: occasional supplemental summer water
© Project SOUND
Big-pod Ceanothus – Ceanothus megacarpus
var. insularis
http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Ceanothus+megacarpus+var.+insularis
var. megacarpus
Coast of S. CA from Santa Barbara to San Diego Co. – CA endemic var. insularis – Channel
Isl. (Catalina & San Clemente in south)
var. megacarpus – mainland (Santa Monica Mtns our nearest)
Dry, chaparral slopes below 2000 ft.
© Project SOUND
Big-pod Ceanothus
is a chaparral shrub Soils:
Texture: rocky or sandy best – needs well-drained soil
pH: any local
Light: Full sun to light shade
Benefits from afternoon shade in hot inland gardens
Water: Winter: needs good winter
rains
Summer: low needs – Zone 1-2 (water very infrequently, if at all, once established)
Fertilizer: none; likes poor soils; likes an organic mulch
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3275037528_782b3c6c8f.jpg?v=0
Ceanothus –
Water Zone 1-2 Year 1:
First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain alone may suffice)
First summer/fall – one full Water Zone more than it’s mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept. unless it gets summer rains in nature
Year 2: Second winter/spring – water only
if rains are inadequate
Second summer/fall: Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:
mature Water Zone
All other perennial/woody species: ½ Zone above mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept. unless it gets summer rains in nature
© Project SOUND
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: occasional supplemental summer water
http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/bigpodceanothus.html
Comparison of yearly cycle: CSS vs Chaparral
Coastal Sage Scrub
Environmental Lower total moisture/rain
Moderate temperatures
Less natural mulch
Growth patterns Summer deciduous (facultative)
Short, rapid growth season – winter through May/June
May produce separate ‘summer foliage’ (late spring) that is more drought resistant
Chaparral
Environmental Higher total moisture
Rain & snow
May also have summer rains
Wider temperature extremes
More natural mulch
Growth patterns Evergreen
Longer growth season – spring through summer
May have growth/flowering after summer rains
© Project SOUND
What happens when mature shrubs dry out?
Coastal Sage Scrub
Twigs become very dehydrated (lose 75-90% of their water)
Causes emboli (air bubbles) in the water conducting vascular tissue (Xylem tubes)
Causes plants to lose their leaves & become dormant
CSS shrubs are programmed to grow rapidly in response to water – they need to ‘re-grow’ their vascular tissue
Chaparral
Twigs don’t become so dehydrated (lose 15-~40% of their water)
Less apt to develop emboli
Thus, they can remain evergreen
Adult plants (which are drought tolerant) don’t need to react so quickly to water
© Project SOUND
Differences in root growth reflect native
environment
Coastal Sage Scrub
Environmental Lower total moisture/rain
Moderate temperatures
Less natural mulch
Roots – 1-8x above-ground area Wide-spread, multi-branched
(net-like) shallow (0-3 ft) roots – very efficient for water, nutrient up-take; grow with winter rains
Chaparral
Environmental Higher total moisture
Rain & snow
May also have summer rains
Wider temperature extremes
More natural mulch
Roots – 6-40x above-ground area Shallow roots – like CSS; grow
with rain
+/- Intermediate (often re-sprouting) roots
+/- Very deep vertical roots – down into bedrock & watertable
© Project SOUND
Take-home message
Perennials from CSS, Coastal Shrubland and Coastal Prairie have dense, shallow roots
They tend to become established quickly (1-2 years) and be < 6 ft tall
They tend to dry out in early summer – either losing their leaves or growing small summer leaves
Mature plants do best with little (Zone 1-2) water; will stay green longer – but shorter-lived – with more (Zone 2)
© Project SOUND
Take-home message
Plants from Chaparral have both shallow & deep roots, allowing them to maximize available water
The roots take longer to develop – hence the longer Establishment Phase for Chaparral shrubs
Once established, Chaparral shrubs are very drought tolerant
The roots of Chaparral shrubs allow them to be both evergreen and a large size (usually > 6 ft)
© Project SOUND
Watering rules of thumb -
the first 2 years
Year 1: First winter/spring – Zone 3
(rain alone may suffice)
First summer/fall – one full Water Zone more than it’s mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept unless it gets summer rain in nature
Year 2: Second winter/spring – water
only if rains are inadequate
Second summer/fall: Grasses & local native sub-
shrubs: mature Water Zone
All other perennial/woody species: ½ Zone above mature Zone – decrease slightly in Aug/Sept. unless it gets summer rain in nature
© Project SOUND
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: occasional supplemental summer water; all others at mature Zone
What plant communities normally
experience some summer moisture?
Sonoran Desert
S. CA Mountain Communities
Chaparral (+/-)
Summer monsoon events usually Aug-Sept
Locally rare – but can contribute significant precipitation in a single event (1/2-3”)
Northern Coastal Sage Scrub/Coastal Chaparral
Fog events (usually over
several days) can provide up to 2-3 inches of precipitation
Can occur from June-Aug
Fog drip occurs at night
© Project SOUND
Summer monsoons Summer fogs
You may have heard this old saw about
the growth of CA native plants…
© Project SOUND
This probably fits large shrubs best
Bunchgrasses look a little thin the first year
© Project SOUND
Nassella – 6 months
Nassella – 24 months
Thin Grass – Agrostis pallens
‘lawn-like’ grasses take 1-2 years to look mature
© Project SOUND
3 months
6 months
12 months
24 months
Perennials, especially the groundcover
types, often look pretty wimpy the first year
© Project SOUND
Woody groundcover plants fill in readily
© Project SOUND
Pigeon Point coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis 'Pigeon Point'), deer grass and
Canyon Prince giant rye (Leymus condensatus 'Canyon Prince'
2 years after planting
Sub-shrubs often look mature quite early
© Project SOUND
4 months 6 months
8 months
Remember: these are CSS
sub-shrubs – they grow &
mature quickly
12 months
Lemonadeberry in the wild
Can grow as individual plants or form close thickets
http://www.ovrp.org/vegetation/images/Lemonadeberry.jpg http://www-
laep.ced.berkeley.edu/laep/courses/courses_la112.html
Blue/Mexican Elderberry – Sambucus nigra spp. cerulea (S. cerulea)
http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/elderb3.htm
© Project SOUND
Mulches do more than just conserve water…..
May help control the spread of plant diseases
May help control the effects/ numbers of insects
May help fruit/vegetable development
May help prevent soil erosion
Keeps feet clean, allowing access to garden even when damp
Provides a "finished" look to the garden
Can be an important design element (if desired)
http://www.ehow.com/how_2354262_ch
oose-between-rock-wood-mulch.html
© Project SOUND
Mulch helps in the transition period
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Rosenbaum_2009/index.html
© Project SOUND
Conserving water & soil: mulch tips
Mulch when/where appropriate – great water management tool
Choose mulches appropriate for the plants (most important) and the physical conditions – see workbook materials
Organic mulches
Inorganic mulches
Look to Mother Nature when choosing mulches
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Kasameyer_2009/index.html
Organic mulches need to be renewed
every fall
Why the need to renew? Compaction
Decomposition/breakdown
Loses it’s color
Benefits of mulch renewal in fall Easy time – when plants
are dormant/pruned
Adds color/interest
Prepares garden to conserve the winter rains
© Project SOUND
Filler plants are a
life-saver
Short-lived grasses Blue wildrye – Elymus glaucus
CA Brome – Bromus carinatus
Annual wildflowers Clarkias
Tidy-tips
Globe Gilia
Phacelias
Everlastings
Perennials that re-seed CA Poppy
Rosy Buckwheat © Project SOUND
© Project SOUND
Blue Wildrye – Elymus glaucus
USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database
http://jrbpgrasses.blogspot.com/2006/04/blue-wildrye-elymus-glaucus-apriljune.html
© Project SOUND
Blue (Western) Wildrye – Elymus glaucus
Short-lived, cool-season bunchgrass
Occurs: coast to mountains; open areas, chaparral, woodland, forest - often riparian areas
Size: 1-3+ ft; spreading – texture somewhat coarse (typical ryegrass)
Light: full sun to light shade (under Mulefat or Elderberry)
Soils: well-drained
Water: best on moderately moist soils but fairly drought tolerant
Good for natural-looking areas, slopes/banks, with oaks and conifers, as an accent plant http://www.gardenopus.com/ElymusGlaucus.JPG
Herbaceous perennial groundcovers
make great filler plants
Yarrow – Achillea millefolia
Woodmints – Stachys spp
Coastal Aster
CA Fuschia – Epilobium canum
© Project SOUND
© Project SOUND
What to do the first
few years
Nice mulch; fencing
Annual wildflowers
Short-lived, quick-growing perennials & grasses
Informative signs
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Salsig_2009/index.html
Lesson 6 : Weeding is a fact of life
Weeds compete for water, nutrients & light – and they’re very good at it (that’s why they’re weeds!!
© Project SOUND
Lesson 7 : Start pruning in the first year
© Project SOUND
Remember – this plant gets very large without yearly tip-pruning
Monitoring for problems
Plant water status
Plant health/pests
Plants dying
Areas with too much or too little water
Erosion/drainage problems
Gaps in the plant cover (only after first 2 years or so – hard to tell before that)
Plants that don’t fit the design/ are out of place
© Project SOUND
Madrona Water-wise Garden – Est. 12/05
© Project SOUND April 2007 – 15 months
December 2005 - installation
April 2006 – 3 months
December 2006 – 12 months
Observations
Species distribution has changed – much like in nature (annuals & re-seeders common early on)
As expected, smaller plants established more quickly
The early garden looks ‘flat’ and ‘boring’ – many slow-growing species not yet visible
© Project SOUND
Observations
Some plants have not made it – others have flourished
Some plants are now in too much shade – succession
Some plants probably planted in the wrong place – grew too big
Some new plants are needed every year to fill gaps
© Project SOUND
© Project SOUND
Evolution of a front yard…
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Zander_2009/index.html
2005
2009
Lessons for the First Two years
1. Plant with the seasons
2. Water to promote survival, not abundant growth
3. Species have normal growth patterns; speed; size; shape
4. Mulch to conserve water – and much more
5. Fill in the gaps with annuals, short-lived grasses, ‘filler plants’
6. Weeding is a fact of life
7. Start pruning in the first year
8. Monitor your progress/revise your plan as needed
9. Keep a Journal/ take photos
10. Learn from Mother Nature – the ‘Head Gardener’
© Project SOUND
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