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www.wjpps.com │ Vol 10, Issue 3, 2021. │ ISO 9001:2015 Certified Journal │
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Sunayana et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences
FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF MOISTURIZER
CONTAINING ISABGOL MUCILAGE FOR THE
MANAGEMENT OF DRY SKIN
Ghodgaonkar Sunayana1, Sadgir Priyanka
1, Pai Anant
2, Momin Farina
2, Pagare
Akshata2
Shri Pandit Baburao Chaughule College of Pharmacy, Anjurphata, Bhiwandi,
Maharashtra 421302, India.
ABSTRACT
Isabgol (Psyllium Husk) is known to exhibit a plethora of
pharmacological activities. It has been used as a dietary fiber
supplement, bulk-forming laxative, and in treatment of colon cancer.
Isabgol is widely used as a cure, in treating different kinds of diseases,
conditions like chronic constipation, diarrhea, inflammation of mucous
membrane of GI and genitourinary tracts, duodenal ulcer, gonorrhea,
piles, etc.,as bulk forming, non-irritant laxative drug, demulcent, as a
cervical dilator etc. It is known to have an excellent emollient property.
The advantage of isabgol is it is natural, less costly, freely available
and nontoxic. This work deals with the emollient property of isabgol. It
is a known fact that Isabgol has good moisturizing effect due to its gel
forming activity. Hence we have tried to formulate vitamin E enriched
moisturizer for the management of dry skin.
KEYWORDS:- Isabgol husk, gel, mucilage.
Isabgol husk is obtained from the seeds of Plantago ovate Plantagoafra, Plantagoindica
belonging to family Plantaginaceae. Psyllium husk contains a high proportion of
hemicellulose, composed of a xylan backbone linked with arabinose, rhamnose, and
galacturonic acid units (arabinoxylans). Phytochemical research of Plantago ovate
explainsthat psyllium a mucilage fibre has great ability to produce gel. It acts as the
endosperm of P.ovata see where it prevents seed from drying.
WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES
SJIF Impact Factor 7.632
Volume 10, Issue 3, 1550-1562 Research Article ISSN 2278 – 4357
*Corresponding Author
Dr. Ghodgaonkar
Sunayana
Shri Pandit Baburao
Chaughule College of
Pharmacy, Anjurphata,
Bhiwandi, Maharashtra
421302, India.
Article Received on
09 Jan. 2021,
Revised on 29 Jan. 2021,
Accepted on 19 Feb. 2021
DOI: 10.20959/wjpps20213-18541
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The material found in mucilage is revealed and it is found it contains neutral arabinoxylan
(arabinose 22.6%, xylose 74%, molar basis; only traces of other sugars) with about 35% of
non-reducing terminal residues, the polysaccharide ishighly branched. The data are
compatible with a structure consisting of a densely substituted main chain of 3 trisaccharide
branches having the sequence L-Araf-a-(1-3)-D-Xylp-B (1-3)-L-Araf. The presence of this
sequence is supported by methylation and NMR data, and by the isolation of the disaccharide
3-O-β-D- Xylopyranosyl-L-arabinose as a product of partial acid hydrolysis of
polysaccharide. Following chemical constituents are responsible for the gel forming
properties of Isabgol mucilage
Fig. 1: Chemical substances of isabghula husk.[18]
Taking this property of gel forming into consideration we thought of exploiting potential
moisturizing effect of isabgol.
Moisturizers are substances used to reduce signs and symptoms of dry scaly skin making the
rough surface soft and smooth. Moisturizers are designed to improve skin quality maintain
and/or restore the moisture content of the skin as well as keep it smooth and pliable and aid in
alleviating the symptoms of dry skin. Moisturizers also contain in ingredients that help
fighting age, acne. For eg: alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) are widely used in moisturizers.
Although AHAs cause photosensitivity (effect of UV light of the sun), this effect can be
reversed within a week.
However in case of herbal moisturizer no such adverse effects occur.Hence an attempt has
been made to formulate herbal moisturizer which is cheap and non-toxic.
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The various ingredients used in moisturizer are as follows
Emollients: Emollients are used to plasticize and soften the skin usually by filling in the void
spaces between the corneocytes and replacing lipids in the sub-cutaneous layer of the skin.
Examples include petrolatum, mineral oil, emulsifying wax etc.
Skin rejuvenators: These are enhancers of skin barrier. They include elastin keratin and
collagen.
The other additional ingredients include emulsifiers, thickening agents, water, preservatives
anti-oxidants, fragnances and colouring agents.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Isabgol husk was of Plantago ovate was obtained from local authentic herbal distributor of
Dombivli.
Table 1: Ingredients used in moisturizer.
Sr. no Ingredients Uses
1. Glycerin Humectant
2. Emulsifying wax Base
3. Glyceryl monostearate Base
Table 2: List of ingredients used to formulate base for herbal moisturizer.
Sr. no Ingredients Uses
1. Triple Distilled Water, Isabgol Emollient
2. Triethanol amine Stabilizer
3. Extra Virgin Olive oil Nourishing agent
4. Vitamin E Nourishing agent
5. Methyl paraben Preservative
6. Propyl paraben Preservative
7. Rose water Cooling effect and Fragnance
8. Synthetic fragnances Fragnance
Preparation of isabgol extract
The aqueous extracts of Isapgol were prepared by using varying amounts of Isabgol husk.
The solutions were used in the range of 0.2-.0.5 gm in 20 ml.
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Fig. 2: FT-IR of Psyllium mucilage.[19]
Assignment Frequency
C-C stretching of alkanes 2926 cm-1
C-O-C stretch of ether 1050 cm-1
OH group 3472 cm-1
-CO stretching 1040cm-1
-CH3 2923 cm-1
Preparation of base
Phase inversion technique was used to prepare base. The internal phase was prepared using
ingredients [composition given in Table 2, emulsification was carried out in the mortar pastel.
Initially, grated and melted emulsifying wax, extra virgin olive oil, were added to a mixture
of previous two nights soaked isabgol husk glycerin.
Formulation optimization
In order to formulate moisturizing cream with sunflower wax, emulsifying wax was partially
and completely replaced by it and also the triethanolamine as an emulsifying agent was
replaced with borax to prepare a stabilized formulation. 32 full factorial design was applied to
the formulation that showed the satisfactory results to see the effect of varying the
concentration of variables emulsifying wax (X1) and sunflower wax (X2) on responses like
viscosity and spreadability. The levels of the two factors were selected on the basis of studies
carried out before implementing the experimental design. Table 3 summarizes the
experimentals, their factor combinations and the translation of the coded levels to the
experimental units used in the study. Composition of all prepared batches is mentioned in
table 4.
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Table 3: Experimental runs for the formulations of moisturizing cream used in the
study with coded values.
Independent
variables Name Unit Levels
Low (-1) Medium (0) High (+1)
X1 Emulsifying wax % 1 2 4
X2 Sunflower wax % 1 2 4
Table 4: Composition of all formulations of moisturizing cream.
Ingredients (%) Formulation codes
MF1 MF2 MF3 MF4 MF5 MF6 MF7 MF8 MF9
Emulsifying wax 1 1 1 2 2 2 4 4 4
Sunflower wax 1 2 4 1 2 4 1 2 4
Extra virgin olive oil 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0
Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
Glycerin 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
Borax 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Methyl paraben 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03
Propyl paraben 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07
Water to make 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100
Perfume q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s.
Evaluation of moisturizer
Cream products were characterized by pH, spreadability, viscosity, in vitro occlusivity and
particle size.
Physical appearance
The product appears to be a white milky cream.
Determination of pH
The pH of the 20 % w/v cream suspension was determined at 25 °C using a pH meter, It was
standardized using standard buffers in the range of pH 5.0- 7.0 prior to use. The average of
duplicates was determined.
Spread ability
The spread ability of test samples was determined using the following technique:
0.5 g test formulation was placed within a circle of 1 cm diameter pre-marked on a glass plate
over which a second glass plate was placed. A weight of 100 g was allowed to rest on the
upper glass plate for 5 min. The increase in the diameter due to spreading of the test
formulation was noted. Average of three determinations was noted.
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Viscosity
The viscosity of different formulation was determined at 370C using a Brook field
viscometer. The viscosity was measured by using spindle 64. Results mentioned in table
no. 6.
Thermal stability
Thermal stability of the prepared formulations was determined at 20°C, 30°C and 40°C
according to Indian standard guidelines.
In vitro occlusivity test
Complete coverage of the surface of the skin indicates occlusion of skin. Filter paper covered
water-filled beaker method is used here. The occlusion of isabgol cream samples were
evaluated by applying the in vitro occlusion test. The samples of all formulations, control
formulation and a negative control were studied for the in vitro occlusivity to determine the
water flux. The occlusivity of cream can be measured by occlusion factor F = 100*A-B/A
The occlusion factor F was calculated as
Where,
A= Water flux through uncovered filter (percent water loss)
B= Water flux through filter when covered by test preparation (percent water loss).
The minimum occlusion factor is 0 which indicates no occlusion effect and maximum
occlusion factor is 100 which indicate complete surface coverage by topical formulation.50 to
200-mg of each sunscreen cream was applied evenly on the filter paper surface to create solid
film which was found about amount of 8.5 mg/cm2. Reference control was actually a beaker
covered with filter paper without sample application. Store the samples at 32oC and 50-55%
RH for 48 hours. Meanwhile the samples were weighed after 6, 24, and 48 hours to determine
water flux or evaporation through the filter paper. Every experiment was performed in
triplicate.
Measurement of particle size
Laser diffraction method was employed for particle size analysis. Laser diffraction analyser
(Anton Paar Automatic Particle Size Analyzer) was used for measuring the globule size
distribution of the emulsion droplets. The sample was dispersed in 0.3 micron filtered
distilled water to obtain an obscuration of 5-15%.
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RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
pH
pH of all the formulations was found to be between 7.0+ 0.195 to 7.21+ 0.188. these values
indicate that the pH is within the range, which are presented in the table. It is an acceptable
value as per ISI standards.
Viscosity studies
As emboldened in the adjoining column add the range of viscosity (2456±6.18 to 4066±7.22)
and 10 rpm.
Spread ability test
The spread ability of all formulations was determined and it was observed that formulation
MF6 has higher spread ability as compared to other formulations as well as the control
formulation as shown in table 4.
Thermal stability
The most important evaluation parameters in cosmetic formulation evaluation are thermal
stability, viscosity, and spreadability. These are the ultimate factors that affect the stability
and acceptability of the formulation. It was found during evaluation that formulations MF1,
MF2, MF5, MF6, MF7 showed batter stability showed good stability at 20 °C, 30 °C and 40
°C. It can be observed in the following tables that lower thermal stability and spread ability
led to cracking and phase separation of formulations (observed in MF4, MF5, and MF7).
Table 5: Thermal stability of all moisturizing cream formulations.
Formulation code Thermal stability*
20 °C 30 °C 40 °C
MF1 P P P
MF2 P P P
MF3 N N N
MF4 N N N
MF5 P P P
MF6 P P P
MF7 P P P
MF8 N N N
Control Formulation P P P
*P-denotes stability of formulation, N-denotes instability of formulation
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Table 6: Evaluation parameters for the all moisturizing cream formulations.
Formulation
code
pH
(mean±SD)
Viscosity at 10 rpm
(CPS) (mean±SD)
Spreadability
(mean±SD)
MF1 6.80±0.190 2456±6.18 5.00±0.10
MF2 7.10±0.146 2859±6.52 5.96±0.14
MF3 7.20±0.175 2895±5.52 4.72±0.10
MF4 7.21±0.200 2018±5.89 6.15±0.16
MF5 7.22±0.216 3026±6.70 6.95±0.10
MF6 7.31±0.112 3240±4.56 5.76±0.19
MF7 7.23±0.175 3515±6.66 5.12±0.08
MF8 7.24±0.186 4066±7.22 5.40±0.16
Prototype
formulation 7.22±0.148 3502±6.95 6.00±0.14
In vitro occlusivity test
Fig. 3: Occlusivity test.
The results of occlusivity are shown in Fig. 3. From the results of occlusivity test it revealed
that the isabgol moisturizer showed significantly higher (p < 0.05) prevention of water loss.
The solid nature of lipid component in isabgol moisturizer and blocking the micropores of
filters to prevent the water evaporation hence isabgol moisturizer showed better occlusivity.
The greater skin occlusivity higher is the skin hydration properties. Hence isabgol moisturizer
increases skin hydration properties which could be helpful for permeation of moisturizer
through the epidermis of skin. MF5 prevented maximum water loss and thus had optimum
occlusivity.
Particle size
The viscosity of emulsion and the viscosity of the continuous phase are directly proportional.
The viscosity of both o/w and w/o emulsions can be increased by decreasing the particle size.
The particle size of both optimized and control formulations were determined using Malvern
instruments. Studies indicate that optimized formulation MF5 has less particle size as
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compared to standard formulation. The reduction of particle size of emulsion increases the
viscosity of emulsion and results in better emulsion stability. The results of particle size are
shown in fig. 4 and fig. 5.
Fig. 4: Graph of particle size distribution for prototype formulation.
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Table 7: Particle size of prototype formulation.
Size
(µm)
%
volume
Under
Size
(µm)
%
volume
Under
Size
(µm)
%
volume
Under
Size
(µm)
%
volume
Under
Size
(µm)
%
volume
Under
Size
(µm)
%
volume
Under
Size
(µm)
%
volume
Under
Size
(µm)
%
volume
Under
0.0100 0.00 0.0597 0.00 0.357 0.00 2.13 85.07 12.7 100.00 76 100.00 454 100.00 2710 100.00
0.0114 0.00 0.0679 0.00 0.405 0.00 2.42 88.93 14.5 100.00 86.4 100.00 513 100.00 3080 100.00
0.0129 0.00 0.0771 0.00 0.460 0.60 2.75 92.44 16.4 100.00 98.1 100.00 586 100.00 3500 100.00
0.0147 0.00 0.0876 0.00 0.523 2.62 3.12 95.44 18.7 100.00 111 100.00 666 100.00
0.0167 0.00 0.0995 0.00 0.594 6.76 3.55 97.76 21.2 100.00 127 100.00 756 100.00
0.0189 0.00 0.113 0.00 0.675 13.31 4.03 99.27 24.1 100.00 144 100.00 859 100.00
0.0215 0.00 0.128 0.00 0.767 22.07 4.58 100.00 27.4 100.00 163 100.00 976 100.00
0.0244 0.00 0.146 0.00 0.872 32.33 5.21 100.00 31.1 100.00 186 100.00 1110 100.00
0.0278 0.00 0.166 0.00 0.991 43.09 5.92 100.00 35.3 100.00 211 100.00 1260 100.00
0.0315 0.00 0.188 0.00 1.13 53.35 6.72 100.00 40.1 100.00 240 100.00 1430 100.00
0.0358 0.00 0.214 0.00 1.28 62.38 7.64 100.00 45.6 100.00 272 100.00 1630 100.00
0.0407 0.00 0.243 0.00 1.45 69.85 8.68 100.00 51.8 100.00 310 100.00 1850 100.00
0.0463 0.00 0.276 0.00 1.65 75.87 9.86 100.00 58.9 100.00 352 100.00 2100 100.00
0.0526 0.00 0.314 0.00 1.88 80.80 11.2 100.00 66.9 100.00 400 100.00 2390 100.00
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Table 8: Particle size evaluation of MF5.
Size
(µm)
%Vol
Under
Size
(µm)
%Vol
Under
Size
(µm)
%Vol
Under
Size
(µm)
%Vol
Under
Size
(µm)
%Vol
Under
Size
(µm)
%Vol
Under
Size
(µm)
%Vol
Under
Size
(µm)
%Vol
Under
0.0100 0.00 0.0592 0.00 0.357 0.00 2.13 26.54 12.00 100.00 76.9 99.00 454 100.00 2710 100.00
0.0114 0.00 0.0679 0.00 0.409 0.00 2,42 34.45 14.5 100.00 84.4 100.00 514 100.00 3080 100.00
0.0129 0.00 0.0273 0.00 0.460 0.00 2.75 42.92 16.6 100.00 98.1 100.00 526 100.00 4500 100.00
0.0149 0.00 0.0676 0.00 0.523 0.00 3.12 51.71 18.7 100.00 111 100.00 644 100.00
0.0157 0.00 0.0995 0.00 0.594 0.09 3.55 60.55 21.2 100.00 127 100.00 754 100.00
0.0189 0.00 0.313 0.00 0.675 0.27 4.00 69.10 24.1 100.00 144 100.00 859 100.00
0.0215 0.00 0.128 0.00 0.767 0.58 4.58 76.91 27.4 100.00 163 100.00 976 100.00
0.0244 0.00 0.146 0.00 0.872 1.09 5.21 83.80 31.1 100.00 186 100.00 1110 100.00
0.0278 0.00 0.166 0.00 0.991 1.90 5.92 89.36 35.1 100.00 211 100.00 1268 100.00
0.0315 0.00 0.188 0.00 1.13 3.26 6.72 93.60 40.1 100.00 242 100.00 1430 100.00
0.0338 0.00 0,214 0.00 1.28 3.41 7.64 96.58 45.8 100.00 272 100.00 1630 100.00
0.0432 0.00 0.243 0.00 1.45 3.83 8.00 98.47 51.8 100.00 310 100.00 1850 100.00
0.0458 0.00 0.276 0.00 1.65 11.50 9.86 99.52 54.9 100.00 352 100.00 2100 100.00
0.0478 0.00 0.314 0.00 1.88 19.46 11.2 99.91 66.9 100.00 400 100.00 2390 100.00
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CONCLUSION
Moisturizing cream formulations were subjected to various assessment parameters and the
values obtained were within the limits which are depicted in table 5, 6, 7 and 8. pH of all the
formulations was found to be alkaline. All the formulations exhibited psuedoplastic flow in
terms of viscosity. The spread ability of formulation MF5 is higher than other formulations as
well as the prototype formulation. Amongst all of the formulations, only MF1, MF2, MF4,
MF5, MF7 and MF8 showed better thermal stability at 20 °C, 30 °C and 40 °C. The MF5 was
selected as optimized formulation on the basis of results of spread ability and viscosity. The
particle size of both optimized and prototype formulation indicates that reduction in particle
size of emulsion improves the viscosity of it and results in better emulsion stability. In vitro
occlusivity study was done for optimized formulation MF5 and prototype formulation. It is
seen that overall occlusivity is improved by using sunflower wax in optimized formulation
MF5 as compared to the prototype formulation.
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