gherzi presentation shanghai 20171403 - ecv international · seite5...
Post on 25-Mar-2020
2 Views
Preview:
TRANSCRIPT
Seite 2www.gherzi.com
Gherzi: integrated consulting since 1929Fiber OEM Textile Garmenting Brands/ Retail
Seite 4www.gherzi.com
Emerging trends
Japan
USA
Germany
UK
France
China
Italy
Canada
Spain
Brazil
2000 2010 2020 2030 2040 2050
India
China
USA
Indonesia
Nigeria
Brazil
Russia
Japan
Philippines
Turkey
Estimated moment of loss of competitiveness of the traditional textile industry
Source : IMF, citygroup, PWC
Top 10 economies by 2050;; India will enter the picture only 2050;; that still gives some time to the textile industry
Evolution of economy and textile competitiveness
Seite 5
Evolution of textile production capacity
Source: ITMF, The International Federation of Cotton and allied Textile Industries
45.553.7 56.0 58.7 57.1
49.036.9 29.6
9.7 3.5 1.7
24.9
32.0 35.4 36.9 40.539.8
39.7
33.3
32.528.9
24.717.7 12.0
19.5
28.031.5
35.5
30.9
26.4
23.3
19.9
19.617.1
9.8
3.3
2.6
2.6
2.7
3.3
3.5
3.64.8
8.0
5.4
35.9
2.0
2.1
2.0
3.5
4.77.1
9.0
9.1
9.3
1.53.1
3.8
5.6
7.5
8.2
9.1
7.3
9.2
10.1
9.5
10.814.7 15.3
9.0
2.4
3.5
4.6
4.3
4.0
9.6 13.9 25.6
38.0
46.5
4.9
6.1
6.4 7.1
8.7
9.5
9.7
10.5
13.9 17.9
21.1 26.637.7*
2.0
2.4 6.7
6.38.2
12.6
3.713.2
11.6
10.2 7.7 3.81.9
3.1
3.8 5.4 8.61.6 5.4
8.2
15.5 21.9 27.4
1.74.0
6.38.0 6.9
6.54.89.66.70.7
115
44*
1.110.7
36.2
5.3
0
50
100
150
200
1900 1910 1914 1920 1928 1933 1938 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010
Other Asian CountriesPakistanJapanIndiaChina
AfricaS. & N. American countriesBrazilUSA
RussiaTurkeyEU countriesGB
3.7
105
133
144145
165157
147
123126
137
158165 169
~ 240
[Mio. Spindeln]
* 2 mn were scrapped
Seite 6www.gherzi.com
8 ongoing changes
1.Stagnation of CO
2.Increase in filaments
3.Increasing blendedshort staple spun yarns
4.Nonwovens gainingshares
5. Increasingfunctionalisation
6. Sustainability
7. Changing retail
8. China +N
Seite 7www.gherzi.com
Global fiber consumption will continue to grow at 3% p.a. with greatershare of syntheticsCotton’s share of total fiber production is forecast to fall below 24%by 2030
Source: USDA, ICAC, CIRFSNote: *forecast
Productionother fibers
Cotton production
CAGR (1960-2030)
4.5%
1.6%
74%
67%65%
55%
49%46%
51%
46% 47%
37% 37%33%
31%27%
24%22%
0.00
20.00
40.00
60.00
80.00
100.00
120.00
140.00
Other Fiber
Cotton production mn t
Cotton Share
mn t 137*
119*
102*
88*
74*66
53
4341
3430
242219
159
Growth of global fiber consumptionEmerging trends 11. Fibers: Cotton losing shares
Seite 8www.gherzi.com
2. Increasing filaments
Source: Golden Lady
Nerino G (Invista & Golden Lady).: hydrophilamide fiber (staple or filament) combining the best mechanical properties of MMF (PA 66) with the best characteristics of CO (softness & moisture management)
Seite 9www.gherzi.com
3. Increasing blends
Source: Gherzi Data
Total SSF-Spun Yarns ~40‘000 t
2015 [´000 t and ´000 SE]
Total SE 290’000 SE~ 14’000 t~ 45’000 SE
~ 24’000 t~ 210’000 SE
1‘300 t36‘000 SE
4
100% CO carded
Blended CO carded / PES 5’400t30’000 SE
Blended CO carded / CV 800t – 5’000 SE
100% CO combed4’800t
48’000 SE
Blended CO combed/PES 4’300 t37’000 SE
Blended CO combed/CV 1’600t – 12’000 SE
100% Synthetic-SSF Yarn 7’600 t75’000 SE
100% CV Yarn 1’500 t – 12’000 SEBlended PES/CV-Yarn 2’000 t – 14’000 SE
18-20 40 60 200
12’000t60’000 SE
Ne
9’200 2’800
2’700 2’700
300 500
200 5004’100
800 3’500
400 1’400
6’000 800800
1’500
2’000
Seite 10www.gherzi.com
4. Nonwovens gaining shares• Nonvowens can be produced faster and cheaper compared to wovens and knitted surfaces
• As of today, still limited replacement potential
• First Substitutions• Medtech: Spunbond nonwoven for surgical medical use• Protech: PPE (spunlace)• Signage• Mattress Ticking
Seite 11www.gherzi.com
5. Increasing functionalisation: e.g. Schoeller
the feelgood technology naturally self-cleaning actively balances out temperature extremes the bionic climate membrane
Sun Reflector - UV Protector the ecological way to repel water and mud
The new energy recovery system for textiles Powerful Protection -Real Comfort
Controls Bacteria. Sustains Freshness Only diamonds are harder. naturally warm Permanent Flame Protection
Seite 12
The World market for sports and fitness clothing is expected to grow by more than4,5% per year with Europe and North America representing 75% of the total
100,000
110,000
120,000
130,000
140,000
150,000
160,000
170,000
180,000
190,000
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
US$ million
Source: GIA, Inc.
World historical & perspective for sports & fitness clothing by geographic region/country in US$ million*
39%
5%38%
13%4% 1%
38%
5%38%
15%4%1%
38%
4%37%
17%4% 1%North America
Japan
Europe
Asia-Pacific
Latin America
Rest of World
US$ 125 bn
US$ 142 bn
US$ 181 bn
*retail level
1Global trends5.Increasing Functionalisation: Active wear
Seite 13www.gherzi.com
6. Sustainability
The development of the sustainability movements in the global textile chain
THE PEOPLE
2012
THE PRODUCT
1990
THE PLANET
2011–2020
…
Business Social Compliance Initiative
Seite 14www.gherzi.com
7. Changing retailShopping mall
1880 20201900 1920 1940 1960 1980 2000
Suburban Shopping malls
DiscounterCategorykillers Online
Mobile
1. Alternative to digitalisation ? à Decreasing turn over until putting existence at risk
2. Who drives the digitalisation ? à Clearly the customer
3. Do we need e-commerce ? à Do we need marketing ?
Professor Dr. Gerrit Heinemann Head ofeWeb Research Center of Hochschule Niederrhein
Seite 15www.gherzi.com
It took a decade for most countries to achieve the milestone of $ 5 bn of clothingexports.
Source: WTO,Gherzi analysis
Evolution of clothing exports(1990-2014)
Evolution of clothing exports:trends
0 5 10 15 20 25 30
India
Indonesia
Bangladesh
Pakistan
Srilanka
Cambodia
Vietnam
Myanmar
2014 2012 2000 1990
6
13
24
2413
11
10
?
Circles show number of years to achieve first $ 5 bn of clothing exports with 1990 as a reference year
8.Future sourcing: “China + N”
Seite 16www.gherzi.com
6 Disruptive technologies
1. Alternative fabric joining techniques
2. Digital printing & finishing
3. Spinit, CORIZON
4. 3D Printer
5. IoT & IoE
6. Ai
Seite 17www.gherzi.com
1. Ultrasonic seaming(thermal bonding, laser enhanced bonding, adhesive bonding)
Ultrasonic seaming• Typical applications include protective garments, disposable hospital gowns and shoe covers, face masks, infants' nursery garments, filters, bags, curtains, sails, and web splicing
• Traditional sewing has some disadvantages, such as: the amount of time it takes to produce a garment sewn with needle and thread, the sewing thread deteriorating over time, and the needle and thread producing perforated seams that can allow harmful gases and fumes to pass through the seam
• Ultrasonic seaming is one of the many alternatives under consideration by apparel manufacturers
• Ultrasonic seaming uses thermoplastic polymer or fabrics that contain a great amount of thermoplastic fibers. This technique requires no needle, thread, adhesives such as glue, tape, or other bindingsubstances
DisruptionNo need of sewing thread anymore
Seite 18www.gherzi.com
2. Digital printing & finishing
DisruptionLess need of finishingmachines, Mass customization, single lot production
Seite 19www.gherzi.com
3. Spinit, Corizon
Spinit by Mayer & Cie. CORIZON by Terrot
DisruptionNo need of spinningmachine anymore
Seite 20www.gherzi.com
4. 3D PrinterWoven Lace Knits Nonwoven
all direction-stretchable non-woven fabrics based on the integration of elastomers and
textile fibers
Soft PLA material à flexibility
Not ideal (still too rough) but a good start
Lay-Felt filament from inventor Kai Parthy used
in an FDM printer
DisruptionNo need of the textile chain anymore
Seite 21www.gherzi.com
+ +
OM OM OMSmart Shirt Smart Box Smart App
• Smart Textile: Conductive yarn and quick dry fabric ensures accurate readings no matter how much you move or sweat
• Compression Fit: Activates blood circulation, enhances performance and helps muscles recover faster
à Heart Rate, Breathing Rate, walking steps, calorie count etc
• The iPhone (launched June 2007) is a disruptive technology transforming many other industries (incl. manufacturing)
• Carrying technology;; we are starting to see new benefits in wearing it
• Beecham Research currently forecasts that the “wearable technology” market will achieve 2018 sales of ~3 bn $
• Technology enablers: Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) and 5G
• Barriers: CAPEX, limited knowledge, constant innovation, talent
• Todays applications are related to health care, sportswear and military;; many more will follow
5. IoT & IoE
DisruptionNew Business models
Seite 22www.gherzi.com
6. Ai
The 4 Point System Automated online inspection Digital Eye
Automated inspection systems• Reduced dependence on human errors
• Saving of manpower and materials
• Quick response
• Reliability
DisruptionNew Business models
Seite 23www.gherzi.com
New business models
Source: Gherzi
Production 03Produce clean, local, with respect and efficiently
RetailHack the take-away-
waste model
04
Design 02Design for eternity
ConsumptionGo slow and take good
care05
End of lifeConsider every ending as a new
beginning06ResourcesMaterials matter
01
1. Increasing filaments2. Boosts in blends3. Nonwoven gaining shares4. Reuse and redesign waste
5. Design to last6. Design for rebirth7. Smart textiles
8. Spinit9. 3D printer for garment10.Digital printing and finishing11.Mass personalisation
12.E-commerce13.New shopping experience14.Take-back-waste model15.New definition of ownership
16.Wise consumer17.New rules for shopping (online mobile)
18.Biodegrade organic textile19.Upcycle, reuse and recycle
07
Systems thinkingBe transparent and work together
20.Intelligent textile manufacturingsystems
21.CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) is a must
22.Transparency23.Short chains
top related