mastey hair color gray coverage certification presentation
Post on 14-Jul-2015
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GRAY COVERAGEMastey Certification Program
1 to 1 mixing ratioAlways make sure color and developer match up
Processing TimesDyes are all oxidative and need to process fully for best results
WHY DOES HAIR TURN GRAY?Decreased Melanin Production from the body.
STAGES OF GRAY3 steps of diminished melanin production
HOW DOES HAIR GROW3 stages of natural hair growth
INDIVIDUAL HAIR CYCLESEach hair strand has it’s own lifespan.
HOW FAST DOES GRAY GROWThe same as regular hair.
TEXTURE AND POROSITY CHANGESCourse, Compact Cuticle, Wiry, Dry
FACTORS FOR HEALTHY HAIR GROWTHSummer Weather, Healthy Diet, Certain Fruits & Vitamins
NOTICEABILITY OF GRAY HAIRDifferent Hair Levels Show Gray Differently
COLOR FORMULATIONIt’s Like Cooking!
Cookie Recipe
Egg + Flour + Water + Sugar + Salt + Vanilla
Maybe Raisins, or Oatmeal, or Chocolate Chips
What if I added more sugar or more salt? How does that change it?
What if I add pecans?
Your own recipe is what makes you special, and your own formulas is what sets you apart.
OUR INGREDIENTSThe Color Wheel
NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Red + Yellow = Brown
NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Red = Violet & Violet + Yellow = Brown
NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Yellow = Green & Green + Red = Brown
NEUTRAL = BROWNRed + Yellow = Orange & Orange + Blue = Brown
NEUTRAL = BROWNOrange + Purple + Green = Brown
Mastey Tonal Values.0 - Naturals
.00 - Double Naturals
.1 - Ash
.2 - Platinum
.3 - Gold
.4 - Copper
.5 - Mahogany
.6 - Red
.07 - Deep Blue
.9 Tobacco
.0 - Pale Violet
.00 - Violet/Gold
.1 - Blue
.2 - Violet
.3 - Yellow
.4 - Orange
.5 - Red / Brown
.6 - Red
.07 - Deep Blue
.9 - Purple/Orange/Green
Tones BreakdownCool Tones
.0
.00
.1
.2
Warm Tones
.3
.4
.5
.6
Special Tones
.07
.9
GRAY COVERAGESimple Solution = Use Double Natural Shades
Double Natural Formula
Example Formula
5.00 + 20 Volume
Double Natural Formula
5.00 Color Breakdown
5.00 = 5.0 + 4.0 + 5.3
No Stain Dyes
No PPDs
No PTDs
5.0 & 4.0 has a VIOLET base
With more depth due to level mixture
5.3 has a GOLD base
.00 = 2 Violet + 1 Yellow
Violet = Red + Blue
Red + Blue + Yellow = Brown
Brown = 100% Gray Coverage
Tonal Bases of .00
ADDING TONAL VALUEDouble Natural + Secondary Tone
5.00 + 5.34 Chocolate Brown with 100% Gray Coverage
.00 + Secondary Tone
Deeper Coverage
3/4 (.00) + 1/4 (Tone)
1.5 oz (5.00) + .5 oz (5.34)
More Tonal Value
1/2 (.00) + 1/2 (Tone)
1 oz (5.00) + 1 oz (5.34)
5.00 + 5.1 Cool Ash Brown with 100% Gray Coverage
5.00 + 5.3 Golden Brown with 100% Gray Coverage
.00 + Amplifier
Deeper Coverage
7/8 (.00) + 1/8 (Tone)
1.825 oz (5.00) +.125 oz (37)
More Tonal Value
3/4 (.00) + 1/4 (Tone)
1.75 oz (5.00) + .25 oz (37)
5.00 + 37 Amplifier Green Ash Brown with 100% Gray Coverage
Matching Matte Colors
Used when trying to match new growth to ends that have a lot of demi-color build up.
Strand test
5.00 + 4.0
3/4 (5.00) + 1/4 (4.0)
Gray Color Wash Highlights
Select 1 to 2 levels lighter than existing hair color
Formulate with 10 volume
Process for 25-30 minutes
Creates Color Wash that fades over time and blends with new gray growth.
Gray Color Wash Highlights
Existing Level 7
Target for Highlights Level 9
9.23 + 10 Volume
Process for 25-30 minutes
Demi Gray Formula
1oz Teinture
2 oz Instantane
1 oz 20 Volume
Demi Gray Formula
1oz - 9.23 Teinture
2 oz - 9.23 Instantane
1 oz - 20 Volume
30 Minute Processing
Red HeadsTips:
Darker Root Base Formula
For more red vibrancy add red to your above formula
Pay attention to the type of gray hair
Never mix a red with a neutral you may get purple
Pay Attention To% of gray
underlying pigment
whether you are lifting or depositing
are you going to use heat to process
what peroxide volume: 20 or 30?
Avoiding Hot Roots
Root Formula Darker
Target Level 5
Mids & Ends Lighter
Target Level 6
Basic Formulas
Gray Hair that is in the Translucent Stage
Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or(.5) MAHOGANY shade
Add % of GOLD to help with gray coverage
1.5 oz RED + .5 oz GOLD
1.5 oz (5.6) + .5 oz (5.3)
Basic Formulas
Gray Hair that is in the Gray Stage
Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or(.5) MAHOGANY shade
Add % of (.3) & % of (.00) to help withgray coverage
1.5 oz (5.6) + .25 oz (5.3) + .25 oz (5.00)
Basic Formulas
Gray Hair that is in the White Stage
Use (.6) RED or (.4) COPPER or (.5) MAHOGANY shade
Add % of (.3) & high % of (.00) to help withgray coverage
.5 oz (5.6) + .5 oz (5.3) + 1 oz (5.00)
Client over 50% gray white hair
New growth Formula:
2 oz. - (5.00)
1 oz. - (6.46)
1 oz. - (6.4)
Client over 50% gray white hair
Teinture Formula:5.00 (2oz) + 6.46 (1 oz) + 6.4 (1 oz)
Formula Breakdown:(1oz) 5.00 + (1 oz) 5.00 + (1oz) 6.46 + (1oz) 6.4
(1oz) 5.00 + (1 oz) 5.00 + (2/3oz) 6.4 + (1/3oz) 6.6 + (1oz) 6.4
1 VIOLET + 1 GOLD + 1 VIOLET + 1 GOLD + 2/3 COPPER + 1/3 RED + 1 RED
1/2 BLUE + 1/2 RED + 1 GOLD + 1/2 BLUE + 1/2 RED + 1 GOLD + 1/3 GOLD + 1/3 RED + 1/3 RED + 1 RED
3/6 BLUE + 3/6 RED + 6/6 GOLD + 3/6 BLUE + 3/6 RED + 6/6GOLD + 2/6 GOLD + 2/6 RED + 2/6 RED + 6/6 RED
6/6 BLUE + 16/6 RED + 14/6 GOLD
1 BLUE + 2 1/3 GOLD + 2 2/3 RED
1 BROWN + 1 1/3 GOLD + 1 2/3 RED
Salt & Pepper
1oz - Teinture
1 oz - 10 Volume
15-20 Minutes Processing
Salt & Pepper
1 oz - 5.1 Teinture
1 oz - 10 Volume
15-20 Minutes Processing
PEROXIDE CHOICEDependent on your client
TROUBLE SPOTSTemples and Hair line
Trouble ShootingPROBLEM 1: Severe build up from facial / skin products
Lotions, Moisturizers, Cremes
Medicinal / Acne / Corrective Cremes
Facial Toners
Foundations & Other Make up
Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 1: Remove build up before color process
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Apply to temple and hairline area
Lather & Let Sit for a few minutes
Rinse
Re-apply UMF to entire head, Lather, & Rinse
Trouble ShootingPROBLEM 2: Texture or State Change
More Compact Cuticle
Thicker / Courser Hair Shaft at Base
Finer and more compact cuticle
Dryer Less Moisturized Hair
Oily hair
Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 1: Application Change
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Double Application Technique
Apply Hair Color Mixture to hair line and temples first
Apply Color Mixture in paper thin sections through our 4 quadrants
Re-apply color to hair line and temple area
Ensure there is proper saturation throughout hair
Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 2: Pre-Softening the Cuticle
Use Me First Pre Treatment
Use Developer to Pre-Soften Stubborn Gray
Apply 20 Volume Mastey Developer to stubborn grays
Let sit for 5 minutes
Wipe off
Apply Color Mixture, making sure to apply first to stubborn areas
Trouble ShootingSolution 3: Pre-Pigmenting the Cuticle with Color
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Apply Lower Level Color Mixture to stubborn area
Let sit while you apply desired formula through out hair
Re-Apply Desired formula over Stubborn Areas
Make sure to blend colors on the reapplication
Proper MoistureSolution 4: Pre-Moisturize Gray before color
Use Me First Pre-Treatment
Apply Moisturee Moisturizing Treatment
Leave in for 5 minutes then Rinse
Proper moisture balance allows gray hair to accept other ingredients
Moisture will trap in color and amino acids for longer lasting better coverage
PH OF HAIR = 5
Trouble ShootingSOLUTION 4: Raise pH of hair higher to open up compact cuticle.
Alter color formula to raise developer by 5 or 10 volumes
Alter color selection by lowering tint level by 1 level
Original Formula
5. 0 + 20 Volume
New Formula
4. 0 + 25 or 30 Volume
Double Pigment FormulaSOLUTION 5: Increase Amount of Pigments in Color Formula
Dilute Stronger Volume Peroxides with Color Instantane to create a pre-pigmented developer that you mix with permanent color.
This Doubles the amount of color pigments in your formula
2oz of 20 Volume Developer
Making 20 Volume Developer
Making 20 Volume Pre-Pigmented Developer
200% Color Formula
COLOR MAGNETSAcidic Dyes attach to Oxidative dyes like magnets
Teinture = Oxidative Dye Instantane = Acidic Dye
200% COLOR PIGMENTSMore pigment in the hair makes for longer lasting richer color
Final TipsExtra things you can do to help with gray coverage
Process under heat
Extend timing of color process
Make sure to properly saturate the hair / Use enough product
Scoring technique when applying color
QUESTIONS100% Gray Coverage
Repairing Treatment System
Proper PreparationA Clean Canvas
Color Safe Hair PurifierRemove Build up without stripping color or causing dryness or damage
Extremely Damaged Hair Repair over processed and damaged hair with SuperPac and Moisturee
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