orissa

Ikat textiles known as bandhas

Have a distinct native identity

Started from a religious point of view(Jaganath Puri)

Mostly done on single ikat

Recently started with double ikat sarees

Patronised for generation by local population of all social strata

40000 looms scattered around Orissa

Production of large quantities of ikat in Tussar Silk

Represented by two weaver community : the Mehers of Sonepur and Bargarh and the Patras from Naupatna and Cuttack

Traditionally Patra weavers from Nautpatna specialised in Bandhas of mulberry and Tussar Silk and the Mehers of Bargarh mainly weaved cotton ikats.

Jayadeva, the great poet of the 12th century, wished to offer the sacred “Gita Gobinda” text to Lord Jaganath, Lord of the universe. In order to ensure close proximity to his deity, he decided to procure fabrics with lyrics woven into them with which to adorn the image. So impressed was King Ramchandradeva by this symbolic act that he immediately placed orders for these fabrics in Naupatna. Each Pheta contained one shloka or verse woven into it. Today the weavers from the patra community in Naupatna continue to weave these traditional Gita Gobinda Fabrics.

An interesting custom about the antiquity of ikat weaving in Orissa says that each family preserves a small piece of fabric woven by their forefathers to the seventh generation. When an elder dies, his successor adds his fabric to those of his ancestors. The fabrics apparently endowed with some mystical significance, are kept in secret places and are not ordinarily available for inspection.

1 Bhubaneshwar

2 Naupatna

3 Sambalpur

4 Bargarh

5 Bolangi

.

Weaver’s community

Meher Gauduia Patra Asani Patra

Meher

Kuli

Costa

Bhulia

Kuli are labour class meher

Costa are TASSAR weavers

Tie and Dye weavers in cotton

Bhulia is also called as DEVANGAS

In last ten years a scheduled caste GONDAS have also learnt tie and dye technique.

SOCIO-ECONOMIC CONDITIONS

Highly skilled tie and dye weaver earns as much as Rs.300/- per month.

An ordinary tie and dye weaver earns Rs 75/- per month.

Bargarh is the largest area of cotton tie and dye weavers.There are almost 5500-6000 tie and dye weavers in

Orissa are actively engaged.The cost of a cotton tie and dye saree varies from Rs 20-

Rs 120.Silk tie and dye saree is from Rs140- Rs 220.The tie and dye fabrics , particularly silk and cotton

sarees are in demand in Delhi,Calcutta and Bombay markets.

Tassar silk

Cotton (mercerised)

Vegetable dyes

Pit Looms

Raised Pit Looms

Frame Looms

Pit Loom

Raised pit loom

Bargarh-Sonepur

Cotton tie and dye material : Rs. 25 to Rs 50 per meter

Cotton tie and dye saree : Rs 300 to Rs 750

Silk tie and dye saree : Rs 1000 to Rs 1400

Naupatna

Silk tie and dye saree : Rs 1000 to Rs 1400

Tassar tie and dye saree : Rs. 650 to Rs. 700

Tassar and Spun Silk furnishing material Rs 100 per meter

The prices have gone up further by 50 % in the span of 5 years

Organize silk 20/22 Den, 18/20 Den :

Rs 850 to Rs 1150 per kg

Charkha Silk

Rs 700 to Rs 900 per kg

Spun Silk

Rs 600 per kg

Art Silk (Rayon)

Rs 100 perkg

Tassar reeled yarn

Rs 550 to Rs 650 per kg

Cotton 17 NF

Rs 182 to Rs 188 per bundle

Mercerised and bleached : Rs 410 to Rs 960 per bundle

NAMES OF THE EQUIPMENTS USED IN ORISSA

ORISSA EQUIPMENT NAME

Manga LoomHatha SleyLatai, Ashara Small equipment on which warp

is woundJantur Wraping FrameUphurna Weft preparation Frame

Kamra Tie and Dye FrameBaw HealdPania,Jat ReedKanda Small PrinDungi, Maku Fly ShuttleNurie, Phinga Maku Throw Shttle

Unwinding Yarn

Preparation of Weft

Preparation of Warp

Street Sizing

Marking of the design

and tying

Dyeing

Weaving

Curvilinear lines usage

Lotus Lord Lakshmi

Symbol of universe emerging from the sun

Seat of brahma the creator

The shankha or conchSymbolise mystic symbol “om”

Symbolises Nada Brahma or God in the form of sound

RudrakshaWorn around Lord Shiva’s neck or devotees of lord shiva

Has a spiritual power in these seeds

Used for chanting

The FishFirst incarnation of Lord VishnuOne of the symbols of good luckSymbolise prosperity

The coiled serpentSnake worshipSnake believed to be immortalUnending cycle of time and immortality

The elephantFertility and Cosmic watersLearning(knowledge)

Other motifs include various types of creepers, animals like deer, lion,duck and rarely geometrical patterns. Inspiration from architecture, folk painting, mythology and other textiles.

Saktapar

Checkboard design

Commonlly used in sarees

Phetas

Holy script from Gita Gobinda

Written by Jayadeva

Eye catching deep colours

Red

Black

Blue

Purple

Yellow

Striking section of the saree: anchal or pallu of saree

Numerous variations based on the classic Bichitrapur Anchal composed of rows of floral and figurative separated by fine stripes or brocade bands

Originally had two ends as both of them were exposed

Borders had flower motifs. Phuliyas could go up to 10 rows. Called 10 phuliyas or bhuliyas

Berhampur

Famous for textured silk saree with typical motifs and khumbhas(temple border)

Body of saree : mostly plain

Border : extra warp marginal tie and dye effect

Ganjam

Producing mostly dhotis, sarees etc.

Naupatna Famous for khradra

Body and border and anchal done with tie and dye

Designs done on mercerised cotton yarn

Motifs: animals in combination with floral

Bargarh and Sambalpur Famous for production of

sambalpur sari

Cotton, silk and tussar

Highly decorative traditional designs

Motifs: various forms of animals and floral patterns

Exotic colour combinations

Products: dress material , furnishing material

Sonepur and Bolengiri Famous for intricate

and innovative designs

Traditionally woven by Mehers

Pride of the area: Bichitrapur and Saktapar saree

Motif : animals, flora, fauna, temple and geometrical forms

Bombai saree – western part

Khandua saree - Naupatna

Bandha Saree – every part of Orissa

Berhampur saree - Southern

Phulbani – lot of tribal saree weaving

Saktapar Saree or Passapalli

Bafta saree

PRODUCTS

Saree

Bed cover

Cushion Cover

Table Cover

Tray cloth

Skirt Material

Table Napkins etc…

Cotton

Scarf

Stole

Than Cotton and Silk

INSTITUTIONS IN ORISSA

Sri Bhangaban Meher

Sri Baja Behra

All India Fabric Marketing Co-operative society

Rigid distinctions no longer exist

Division of skills and specialisation has entered ikkatproduction in many villages

Some specialise in tie and dye

Neighbouring villages buy dyed yarn to be woven into saree

Traditional motifs once confined to one or the other weaver group are now borrowed and redesigned by both communities.

Weavers who once wove only sarees for local usage now produce yardage, scarves, linen excetra for urban and export market.

Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh

By: Bijoy Chandhra Mohanty

Second Edition

Ikat Textiles of India

Chelna Desai