properties of the hair and scalp milady’s standard cosmetology cosmetology :
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Properties of the Hair and Scalp
Milady’s Standard Cosmetology
Cosmetology:
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
“Any fact facing us is not as important as our attitude toward it, for that determines our success or failure. The way you think about a
fact may defeat you before you ever do anything about it. You are
overcome by the fact because you think you are.”
Norman Vincent Peale
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Objectives• Name and describe the structures of
the hair root.• List and describe the three layers of the
hair shaft.• Describe the three types of side bonds
in the cortex.• List the factors that should be
considered in a hair analysis.
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Describe the process of growth.• Discuss the different types of hair loss
and their causes.• Describe the various options for hair
loss treatment.• Recognize hair and scalp disorders and
know which can be treated by cosmetologists.
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Trichology• Trichology: the scientific study of hair, its
diseases, and care• Integument: system that includes hair,
skin, nails• Hair root: beneath the scalp• Hair shaft: projects above the scalp
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Healthy Hair
• Proper nutrient’s are required.
• Amino acids make up hair.
• Proteins are sources of amino acis.
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Structure of Hair Root• Follicle
– Distribution– Growth
• Hair bulb• Dermal papilla• Arrector pili• Sebaceous glands
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Shaft Structure• Cuticle• Cortex• Medulla
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Chemical Composition of Hair• Keratinization: cell maturation• 90% Protein: amino acids composed of
five elements
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
COHNS Elements• Carbon - 51%• Oxygen - 21%• Hydrogen - 6%• Nitrogen - 17%• Sulfur - 5%
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Amino Acids• Linked like pop beads• End bonds• Polypeptide chain• Helix
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Side Bonds of the Cortex
• Hydrogen bonds• Salt bonds• Disulfide bonds
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Pigment• Melanin
– Eumelanin– Pheomelanin
• Natural haircolor• Gray hair• Hair color versus haircolor
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Wave Patterns• Straight hair• Wavy hair• Extremely curly hair• Asian hair• Caucasian hair• African-American hair
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Analysis and Texture
• Coarse• Medium• Fine
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Testing Hair Texture
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Density
• Low – thin hair• Medium – average thickness• High – dense or thick hair• Average: 2200 hairs per square inch
– Blonde: 140,000– Brown: 110,000– Black: 108,000– Red: 90,000
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Porosity• Low porosity
• Average porosity
• High porosity
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Testing for Porosity
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Elasticity• Normal elasticity
• Low elasticity
• Testing for elasticity
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Growth Patterns• Hair stream
• Whorl
• Cowlick
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Dry Hair and Scalp• Appears dull, dry, lifeless.
• Avoid frequent shampooing.
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Oily Hair and Scalp
• Clarifying shampoos help.• Well-balanced diet.• Exercise.• Regular, frequent shampooing.
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Types• Vellus (lanugo)
• Terminal hair
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Growth• Anagen
• Catagen
• Telogen
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Growth Myths
• Clipping, or cutting makes hair grow faster.
• Scalp massage increases growth.• Gray hair is coarser and more resistant.• Natural curl is determined by race.• Round cross-section is straight.• Oval cross-section is wavy.• Flat cross-section is curly.
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Loss• Natural shedding = 35 – 40 hairs per day• Abnormal loss called alopecia:
• Androgenic alopecia • Alopecia areata• Postpartum alopecia
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Emotional Impact
• Less attractive• Less assertive• Less successful• Less personably likeable• Older by 5 years
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Severe Hair Loss• Men
– Negative social and emotional effects; preoccupation with baldness; effort made to conceal
• Women– Devastation; causes anxiety; feeling of
helplessness and unattractiveness
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Androgenetic Alopecia
• The progressive shrinking or miniaturization of terminal hair.
• Affects 40 million men in U. S.• Affects 20 million women in U. S.
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Alopecia Areata
• Sudden loss in round patches.• Affects 5 million people in the U. S.• Immune system attacks hair follicles.• Begins with small, bald patches.• Occurs in males and females of all races.• Scalp shows no sign of inflammation.• No obvious signs of skin disorder.
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Loss Treatments• Minoxidil (topical treatment)
• Finasteride (oral treatment)
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Hair Disorders• Canities• Ringed hair• Hypertrichosis• Trichoptilosis
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Trichorrhexis nodosa• Monilethrix• Fragilitas crinium
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Disorders of the Scalp• Dandruff
• Pityriasis capitis simplex
• Pityriasis steatoides
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Vegetable Parasites• Tinea
• Tinea capitis
• Tinea favosa
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Animal Parasites• Scabies (itch mite)
• Pediculosis capitis
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Staphylococci Infections• Furuncle or boil
• Carbuncle
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
Summary and Review• Name and describe the 5 main structures
of the hair root.• Name and describe the 3 layers of hair.• Describe the process of keratinization.
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• List and describe the 3 types of side bonds, which are permanent and which are temporary, and which are strongest and why.
• What are the differences between peptide and side bonds?
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Name and describe the 2 types of melanin responsible for natural hair color.
• What 4 factors about the hair should be considered in a hair evaluation?
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• Name and describe the different types of hair and their locations on the body.
• What are the 3 phases of the hair growth cycle and what occurs during each?
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• What is the reason for normal daily hair loss?
• What are the most common types of abnormal hair loss?
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
• What are the only 2 approved hair loss treatments?
• Name the 2 main types of dandruff and state whether either can be treated in the salon.
• Which scalp and hair disorders cannot be treated in the salon?
MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY
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