soils, fertilizers and composting · 2014-11-03 · 11/2/2014 1 soils, fertilizers and composting...
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11/2/2014
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Soils, Fertilizers and Composting
Bill Hlubik
Professor, Agricultural and Resource Management Agent
RCE, Middlesex County
EARTH Center
Mt. Washington
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Causes of poor growth
• Compaction,
inadequate soil
aeration
• moisture,
• adverse climate,
• improper pH,
• nutrient toxicity,
deficiencies,
• Disease, insects
7 8
9
Root Shock – Transplants / Construction
• Transplants need to re-establish root
damage for normal growth
• Plants disturbed by construction within
the past 5 to 10 years may be in shock
and produce limited new foliage.
10
What is soil ?
– a natural body on the surface of the earth in
which plants grow; comprised of mineral and
organic materials and living organisms
– Minerals - Sand, Silt, Clay in varying
proportions
– Soil Micro and Macro Organisms
Physical Characteristics -Texture
• Texture
– Fineness or coarseness of the soil
– Based on the amounts of the three different sized
particles that make up the mineral component
• Sand
• Silt
• Clay
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Relative Size of Soil Separates
University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Plant and Soil Sciences eLibrary, 2005
Sand
12 Textural Classes of Soil
• Based on
percentage of sand,
silt and clay
Using Feel Method to Determine Texture
Feel Method
Topsoil
Subsoil
Parent Material
Soil Profile Soil Profile
• Layers in the soil are
called ‘horizons’
• The upper layer is
called ‘topsoil’
• The middle layer is
called the ‘subsoil’
• The parent material or
bedrock is found below
these layers
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Physical Characteristics
• Soils are
comprised of:
– Solids
• Mineral
component
• Organic
component
– Liquids
• water
– Gases
• ex. O2, CO2
• Infiltration
– Movement of water
into the soil surface
Physical Characteristics –Water Movement in Soil
Physical Characteristics - Tilth
• Tilth or structure is affected by several factors,
including:
– Organic matter, limestone, biological activity
• All increase aggregation or flocculation of
particles
– Sodium
• Decreases aggregation or dispersion of particles
• Tilth is primarily a ‘by-product’ of biological activity
Physical Characteristics - Tilth
Feel Method
Rough = sand
Slick, greasy when wet = clay
Smooth when dry = silt
Falls apart = sand
Stays together, extend far
beyond fingers = clay
Some form but crumbles =
silt
Ribbon Method
Compaction
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• Drainage affects
– Soil drying or moisture holding
– Air flow or gas exchange
– Selection of turf grass species
Physical Characteristics -Drainage
Physical Characteristics -Drainage
• Do a mini ‘perc test’ or percolation test
to determine the internal drainage1. Dig a 12 inch deep hole
2. Fill hole with water
3. Let all of water drain out of hole
4. Fill hole again and measure time for
water to drain out
Physical Characteristics -Drainage
• Evaluate the results. If all of the water
drains out of the hole in:
– 15-30 minutes or less = well drained soil
– 30-45 minutes = moderately drained soil
– Greater than 45 minutes = poorly drained soil
Physical Characteristics -Drainage
• Based on internal and surface drainage,
do the following:
– Choose plant materials appropriate for the
site
– Improve water drainage and percolation
– Irrigate when necessary
– Use mulches to conserve moisture
Physical Characteristics –Compaction
• Compaction
– Physical pressure due to
weight on soil squeezes
out the air space, making
the soil more dense
• Bulk Density
– The weight of dry soil per
unit volume including air
space
Physical Characteristics –Compaction
• Reducing Compaction
– Mechanical aeration
– Tillage
– Organic matter
– Chemically
– Prevention
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Physical Characteristics –Compaction
Images from Turf North, Nov 2005
Physical Characteristics –Compaction
Drainage and Puddling
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Soils Map of New Jersey
• This map shows the major soil series of NJ
• Note the strong association between the bedrock geology and the soil formed
• Soils differ across geographical regions due to many other factors, not just geology
Local Soils Maps
• Soils types can vary
within a small area
due to many factors
• Natural differences,
erosion, replacement,
building
• Web-based copies may
be found at:
http://websoilsurvey.nrcs.
usda.gov/app/
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Biological Characteristics -Organic Matter
• Benefits:
– Enhances biological activity
– Improves tilth and structure
– Increases porosity and infiltration
– Reduces crusting and erosion
– Increases water holding capacity
– Improves nutrient holding and release
• Cation exchange capacity
– Clay and organic matter involved in cation exchange
Biological Characteristics –Nutrient Availability,
TransformationN transformation
impacted by many
factors including:
• Soil
temperatures
• Soil moisture
• C:N ratio of
amendments
• Microbial
populations
Soil Biological CharacteristicsSoil Biological Indicators
• Soil microorganisms
(fungi and bacteria) and
other fauna (e.g.,
earthworms, insects,
arthropods) influence
the availability of
nutrients for crop
growth by decomposing
soil organic matter and
releasing or
immobilizing plant
nutrients.
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Trichoderma species
Trichoderma species
45 46
Biological Characteristics -Disease Prevention
• Higher levels of
biological activity and
diversity often lead to
higher levels of
suppression through
various mechanisms
– Pythium and
Phytophthora
– Mycorrhizal fungi
– Springtails and mites
Trichoderma harzianum
Rhizoctonia solani
Fertile, properly managed soils are the foundation for healthy plants.
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Proper management of soils can help reduce plant stress and disease problems while protecting the local environment.
Liebig’s concept of the limiting factor
Increasing level of a
non-limiting factor
will not improve
production
*Other factors that can
be limiting are pH,
light, water,
temperature, etc.
Brady & Weil,
1999
Plant production is constrained by the essential element* (or
other factor) that is most limiting
Soil pH affects
the availability of
some nutrients,
availability/toxicity of
aluminum,
and the activity of
microorganisms.
Brady & Weil, 1999.
Selection of Liming Material• Dolomitic lime (high Mg)
– Use when soil test Mg level is low relative to Ca
• Calcitic lime (high Ca)
– Use when soil test Ca level is low relative to Mg
• Gypsum (calcium sulfate)
– Use when soil pH is high but Ca is needed
Limestone Rate Based onSoil pH and Soil Texture
Pounds of Limestone/1000 ft2 to Raise pH to Desired Level
Change in Soil Texture
Soil pH(initial -> desired)
Sand Loam Clay Loam
4.0 –> 6.5
4.5 –> 6.5
5.0 –> 6.5
5.5 –> 6.5
6.0 –> 6.5
60
50
40
28
14
161
133
105
78
41
230
193
152
106
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Chemical Characteristics - pH• To increase acidity
– Sulfur (S)
• Elemental sulfur
• Iron sulfate
• Aluminum sulfate
– Acidic organic materials
• Pine needles, peat moss
www.atlanticavenuegarden.com
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Sulfur Needed to IncreaseSoil Acidity to pH 6.5
Pounds of Sulfur/1000 ft2 to Lower pH to Desired Level
Change in Soil Texture
Soil pH(initial -> desired)
Sand Loam Clay Loam
8.5 –> 6.5
8.0 –> 6.5
7.5 –> 6.5
7.0 –> 6.5
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28
12
2.5
58
35
18
3.5
70
46
23
7.0
Relative nutrient level
• Deficient – plant not achieving genetic capacity– deficiency symptoms, or ‘hidden hunger’
– Management strategy: build up soil test level to increase growth
• Adequate level - at 100% growth potential
– not limiting growth
– Management strategy: maintain soil test level
• Excess level - imbalance or toxicity
– growth decreased
– Mangement strategy: draw down soil test level to reduce excess
Improper management of soils can lead to:
• Poor Yields
• Decreased Profits -$$$$$$
• Increase in Diseases and Pests
• Soil Erosion
• Environmental Problems
Soil Testing
Take multiple, randomly
selected sub-samples from
the area to be tested
6-8”
Parameter Soil Test
Interpretation/Recommendation
Soil pH
Lime req. index (LRI) Need for lime or sulfur and rate
Buffer pH
Ca Balance indicates type of lime
Mg
N Not based on soil test
P Based on soil test level
K Based on soil test level
Micronutrients
(Mn, Cu, Zn, B, Fe)
Based on soil test level and soil pH
Soil Sample
• Results will provide information on:
– soil texture
– soil pH
– soil nutrient levels
– fertilizer and limestone/sulfur
recommendations
• Use it, don’t lose it!
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Soil sample depth depends on crop and
management
Dividing by Plant Type and Landscape Management
Area 1a
Area 4
Area 3
Area 2 1 =lawn
2= vegetable garden
3= rose bed
4= acid-loving species bed
Area 1b
1 =lawn
2= vegetable garden
3= rose bed
4= acid-loving species bed
Area 1b
Random subsampling within an area
Final Sample to Lab
Break up cores and mix thoroughly in clean bucket
Submit two cups of soil for testing
Soil Testing
– Indicate whether a new seeding/planting or
established planting
• Send the soil sample and questionnaire
to the laboratory
• Results are usually returned in 1-2
weeks
Soil Testing
• Best results are obtained from properly
collected sample
– Remove any stones, roots and other materials
– Air dry the sample before sending it to the
laboratory
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Evaluate and Implement
• Review and interpret the soil test results
– Existing pH level
• Numerical value
• Verbal description
– Existing nutrient levels and corresponding
fertility category
• Very low, low or medium = Below optimum
• High = Optimum
• Very high = Above optimum
SAMPLE
Determines
amount of
limeSelection of
liming
materials
Need for
phosphorus
and
potassium
fertilizer
Need for
micronutrient
fertilizer
Alkaline (example)
pH 9,
[H+] = 10-9 = 0.000000001
Neutral
pH 7,
[H+] = 10-7 = 0.000000100
Acid (example)
pH 5,
[H+] = 10-5 = 0.000010000
Soil pH:
Degree of Acidity [H+]
or Alkalinity
Why isn’t N analysis included in standard fertility tests?
• Nitrogen exists in many rapidly interchangeable forms in soil;
• Some forms are subject to loss from the soil;
• Therefore…– Amount in soil may
have changed by the time the analysis is completed
– Recommendations are based on seasonal needs (short-term)
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Other tests
Soil
respiration
Soil textural
analysis
Soil organic
matter
And others:
soluble salts
gravel
content
nitrogen tests
etc.
Natural Acidifying Processes in
Soil
• CO2 from respiration + water H2CO3
• Organic acids produced by roots, microbes
• H+ released by roots
• Leaching of basic cations Ca++, K+, Mg++
• Especially in humid (high-rainfall) climate
• Oxidation of ammonium & other compounds
In NJ climate, tendency is for soils to
become more acidic.
Fertilizers and Nutrients
Chemical Characteristics
• Macronutrients:
– Nitrogen (N)
– Phosphorus (P)
– Potassium (K)
– Calcium (Ca)
– Magnesium (Mg)
– Sulfur (S)
• Micronutrients
– Iron (Fe)
– Copper (Cu)
– Boron (B)
– Chlorine (Cl)
– Manganese (Mn)
– Zinc (Zn)
– Molybdenum (Mo)
Fertilization is not a cure all
• Fertilization may be helpful, but only
after you correct other issues that may
be impacting the plant
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Fertilizers
• Quick release –
water soluble
• Slow release
• Organic or
Natural
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Chemical Characteristics - Plant Nutrients
Element Symbol Function in Plant Sources
Magnesium Mg Aids photosynthesis. Key
element for chlorophyll.
Epsom salts,
dolomitic
limestone
Sulfur S Helps to build proteins. Sulfur,
superphosphate
Calcium Ca Part of cell walls. Part of
enzymes.
Limestone,
gypsum
Chemical Characteristics - Plant Nutrients
Element Symbol Function in Plant Sources
Nitrogen N Gives dark green color to
plant. Increases growth of
leaf and stem.
Manure,
blood meal,
fish emulsion
Phosphorus P Formation and growth of
roots, seed formation.
Superphosphate
, rock
phosphate,
bone meal
Potassium K Increases vigor and disease
resistance. Stimulates
production of sugar,
starches, oils.
Sulfate of
potash,
greensand,
wood ashes,
seaweed
Chemical Characteristics - Plant Nutrients
Element Symbol Function in Plant Sources
Zinc Zn Aids in cell division. In enzymes
and auxins.
Zinc sulfate
Iron Fe A catalyst. In the enzyme
system.
Iron sulfate,
chelated iron
Manganese Mn In enzyme system. Manganese
sulfate
Copper Cu Enzyme activator. Copper sulfate
Molybdenum Mo Helps in the use of N. Sodium
molybdate
Boron B Affects absorption of other
elements. Affects germination of
pollen tube.
Borax
What’s in the bag ?
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N = Nitrogen: •critical component of proteins,
chlorophyll molecules
•green up•too much and improperly timed N
causes excessive top growth
P = Phosphorus•used in fall for root growth
•component of DNA, RNA,
photosynthesis
K= Potassium
•used all year
• involved in heat/cold
tolerance,
•disease resistance &
other stresses
Fertilizer Ratios
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Fertilizers come in
Multiple Ratios
Complete Fertilizers
•Contain N-P-K
•2:1:1, 3:1:1, 4:1:2, etc
Balanced Fertilizer
•1:1:1 Ratio or a 10-10-10 Product
Incomplete Fertilizer
•One or more nutrient is not present
High Analysis Fertilizer
•One Nutrient is present in excess of 30%
Nitrogen (N)
• Major component of organic compounds
(amino acids, nucleic acids, chlorophyll)
• Deprived plants - pale green or yellow--a
condition known as chlorosis --due to a lack of
chlorophyll.
• Older leaves affected first then younger leaves
act as nutrient sinks draw nutrients at the
expense of older structures.
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Nitrogen Deficient
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Phosphorus (P)
• New leaves draw from older leaves
• ATP and other nucleotides; phosphorylation of sugars
• Deficiency - stunted growth and sometimes purple
blotches, but not chlorotic. Older leaves are the first to be
affected, P def is fairly uncommon deficiency.)
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Potassium (K)
• Numerous metabolic pathways
• Regulate stomatal opening and closing via moving Cl-
and K+ ions,
• Deficiency - yellowing (followed by browning) of the leaf
margins, which can sometimes be mistaken for wind
burn.
• Protein deficiency, K-starved plants susceptible to
environmental stresses such as frost or pathogens.
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- N
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- P -K
Recycling Nutrients
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Nitrogen SourcesMaterial Analysis
(% dry wt)
Rate of Nutrient
Release
Bat guano 10-4-2 Medium-rapid
Compost 2.5-1-1.5 Slow
Cow manure 2-1-1 Slow
Dried blood 12-1-1 Medium-rapid
Fish meal 10-6-2 Slow
Grass clippings 2-1-2 Medium
Soybean meal 7-1.5-2 Slow-medium
Alfalfa meal 4-0.5-2.5 Medium
Phosphorus and Potassium Sources
Material Analysis
(% dry wt)
Rate of Nutrient Release
Rock phosphate 28-38 0 Slow
Bone meal 15 0 Medium
Wood ash 2 6 Rapid
Potassium sulfate 0 50 Rapid
Greensand 1 5-8 Very to extremely slow
Potential N Fixation of Selected Legumes
Crop Estimated Production
(lb N/A/year)
Alfalfa 160-200
Alsike clover 120-140
Ladino clover 180-200
Sweet clover 140-180
Crown vetch 80-120
Hairy vetch 80-250
Nutrient Sources
Fertilizers
Manures
Nutrient Sources
Compost
Mulches
Nutrient Sources
Legumes
Grass Clippings
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103
Recycle Grass Clippings
• Provides 30% or more of Nitrogen needs of grass. Great slow release source of Nitrogen.
• Lawns green-up earlier and stay green longer in the fall.
• Can help to reduce stress as well as pest and weed problems.
Establishing Clover
• Micro Clovers
• 2 to 8 oz per 1000 sq. ft
• use Dutch white clover
and not the larger,
forage types such as
Ladino white, or Alsike
or Red Clover. White Clover
(Trifolium repens)
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Composts are not all created equal
105
Manure
Manures % Nitrogen % Phosphate % Potash
Bat 6.0 9.0 3.0
Beef (fresh) 0.6 0.4 0.5
Beef (dry) 1.2 2.0 2.1
Chicken (fresh) 0.9 0.5 0.5
Chicken (dry) 1.6 1.8 2.0
Hog (fresh) 0.6 0.3 0.4
Hog (dry) 2.2 2.1 1.0
Horse (fresh) 0.6 0.3 0.5
Rabbit (fresh) 2.4 1.4 0.6
Turkey (fresh) 1.3 0.7 0.5
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Bio-Solids
• Not permitted in organic production
systems
• Concern for heavy metals, pathogens
and other contaminants in the waste
stream
107
Blood Meal
• dry powder made from blood &
used as a high nitrogen fertilizer
• N = 13.25%, P = 1.0%, K = 0.6%.
one of the highest non-synthetic
sources of nitrogen. A by- product
from catlle slaugnterhousese
108
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109
Seaweeed / Kelp Products
• 12,000+ var seaweed
• minimal bulk but alginate
binds soil
• Nutrients - 0.3% N, - 0.1%P
, - 1.0% K,
• trace elements & amino
acids & growth regulators
•
• Salt content , clean source
110
Seaweed / Kelp
J Plant Growth Regul
(2009) 28:386–399111 112
Fertilizing Trees
113
Nutrient Sources
• Nitrogen often comes from fertilizer application and from the air (legumes N from atmosphere)
• Phosphorus often comes from fertilizer, bone meal, and superphosphate.
• Potassium is supplied to plants by soil minerals, organic materials, and fertilizer.
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Nutrient Sources
• Sources of calcium are calcitic and dolomitic limestone, gypsum, and superphosphate.
• Magnesian and dolomitic limestones, soil minerals, organic material, and fertilizers are sources of magnesium for plants.
• Sulfur may be supplied to the soil from rainwater. It is also added in some fertilizers as an impurity, especially the lower grade fertilizers. The use of gypsum also increases soil sulfur levels.
Organic Matter
Organic Matter
• Leaf Compost
– Add 3 to 4 inches on bare ground
– Economical
– Some weeds and other contaminants
– Mix in top 6 to 12 inches of soil
Physical Characteristics - Tilth
• Tilth or structure is affected by several factors,
including:
– Organic matter, limestone, biological activity
• All increase aggregation or flocculation of
particles
– Sodium
• Decreases aggregation or dispersion of
particles
• Tilth is primarily a ‘by-product’ of biological activity
Physical Characteristics - Tilth
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Physical Characteristics - TilthBACKYARD COMPOSTING
Bill Hlubik
Professor - Agricultural and Resource
Management Agent for Rutgers
Cooperative Extension of Middlesex
County
WHY COMPOST YARD ANDKITCHEN WASTE
• National Composting Council estimates the average U.S. household generates 650 lb of compostables every year.
• Limited landfill space should be reserved for materials that cannot be recycled or composted
• Garbage handling is the 4th largest expense for many cities. Composting can reduce those costs
WHY COMPOST
• Saves money and time
• Reduces fertilizer and water use
• Reduces need for soil and plant amendments
• Improves soil structure
• Increases aeration and water holding capacity
• Stimulates healthy root development
• Reduces chemical inputs
• Conserves natural resources
Paper products32.7%(54)
Metals8.2%
Glass5.3%
Plastic12.1%
Other16.4%
Food12.5%(2.6)
Yard12.8%(64)
Total = 254 million tons/yr (4.6 lb/person/day)
Backyard composting can increase recycling of yard and food wastes.
Percent of categorythat was recycled
The overall recycling rate was 33% in 2007
2007 Municipal Solid Waste Production in the U.S.
Composting
• Size of bin
• Carbon to Nitrogen ratios
• Watering
• Aerating
• Adding Soil
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Composting
• Leaves
• Vegetable and Fruit
scraps
• Paper products
• Meat scraps
• Bones
• Oils and Soaps
YES NOComposting
Composting is the transformation of
organic material (plant matter) through
decomposition into a soil-like material
called compost.
Invertebrates (insects and
earthworms),
and microorganisms (bacteria and
fungi)
help in this transformation.
Composting -Speeding up the natural decay process
A compost pile or binallows you to control •Air (oxygen)•Water•Food, and•Temperature
By managing these factors you can speed up the
otherwise slow natural decay process
What do you need to make compost?
• Decomposers – Your composting work crew. These are the microbes (mainly bacteria and fungi) that do all the work for you.
• Food for the decomposersThe organic materials to be composted
• The right amount of air, water, and warmth to keep the work crew happy
Where do the decomposers come from?
If you build it, they will come…
•Soil•Leaves, Chopped twigs,
paper•Food scraps•Manure, and•Finished compost
Each of these will add microorganismsto the compost pile
Composting
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One teaspoon of good garden soil to which compost has been added contains
• 100 million bacteria• 800 feet of fungal threads
Numerous additives and starters are available but arenot needed for good or rapid composting
What is the best food for your decomposers?
All organic materials will compost, but not all should be added to a backyard compost pile
Organic wastes that should be composted include:
Garden trimmings
Kitchen scraps
Also• Used potting soil• Manure• Sawdust• Hair
Grass clippings
Leaves
Materials to avoid…
Avoid organic materials that could cause
problems during or after composting
• Oil, fat, grease, meat, fish or dairy products,
unwashed egg shells (tend to attract pests,
vermin, limit activity of beneficial microbes)
• Hard to kill weeds (bindweed, quackgrass)
and weeds that have gone to seed (could
infest garden area when compost is used).
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Materials to avoid…
Cat or dog waste
(attracts pests, could spread disease)
Diseased or insect ridden plants
(could infect or attack garden plants when compost is used)
Is shredding necessary?
Have greater surface area per unit volume
Allows microbes to get at more of the food
Smaller particles decompose faster
Chipping or
shredding coarse
materials (twigs,
stems) will speed up
the rate at which they
decompose
Decomposition
Your compost workers will thrive if you give them a balanced diet.
• Composting will be most rapid if the decomposers are fed a mix of carbon rich and nitrogen rich materials.
• Carbon rich organic wastes are known as “browns”
• Nitrogen rich organic wastes are known as “greens”
Leaves (30-80:1)
Straw (40-100:1)
Paper (150-200:1)
Sawdust (100-500:1)
Animal bedding mixed with manure (30-80:1)
High carbon materials such as
Vegetable scraps (12-20:1)
Coffee grounds (20:1)
Grass clippings (12-25:1)
Manure
– Cow (20:1)
– Horse (25:1)
– Poultry (10:1), with litter (13-18:1)
– Hog (5-7:1)
High nitrogen materials such as
Browns
• Decay very slowly
• Coarse browns can keep pile aerated
• Tend to accumulate in the fall
• Tie up nitrogen in soil if not fully composted
• May need to stockpile until can mix with greens
Greens
• Decay rapidly
• Poor aeration – may have foul odors if composted alone
• Tend to accumulate in spring and summer
• Supply nitrogen for composting
• Best composting if mixed with browns
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Aerobic composting
• Composting with
decomposers that
need air (oxygen)
• The fastest way to
make high quality
compost
• Produces no foul
odors
• Aerobic decomposers
produce heat
Aerobic composting and temperature
• A thermometer is a nice tool but is not
• essential for good composting
• Active composting occurs in the temperature range of 55oF to 155oF
• Pile temperature may increase above 140oF but this is too hot for most bacteria and decomposition will slow until temperature decreases again.
55 140
155
Does my compost pile have to get
hot?• Good compost can be made in a pile that never
gets hot, but…
– Decay will be slower and it will take longer to make compost
– Not enough air, to little or too much water, or too many browns in the mix could all keep a pile from heating.
• High pile temperature provides the benefits of
– The most rapid composting
– Killing pathogenic (disease causing) organisms
– Killing weed seeds
Getting air to your decomposers
Hot airlowO2
coolair
O2
rich
O2
Warm air rising
through the pile
draws fresh air in
from bottom and
sides
Wind can
stimulate aeration
Pile aerationDepends upon adequate porosity
• Porosity is the air filled space between particles
• “Browns” help to maintain good porosity in the pile
• A compacted pile has lost porosity, can be increased
by turning
• Aeration can be
increased by inserting
sticks, cornstalks, or
perforated pipes into or
under the pile
Pile aerationGetting air to your work force
• Turning the pile mixes
fresh air into the pile• Turning tools can make
the job easier
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Water
• Pile water content should be at 40-60%
• As wet as a squeezed out sponge
• If too dry, add water as you turn the pile
• If too wet, add browns and/or turn the pile
•Rapid decomposition requires optimum water content•If too dry, bacterial activity will slow or cease•If too wet, loss of air in the pile will lead to anaerobic conditions
Making compost the fast way
• Turn the pile every 5 to 7 days,
– move outer material to the pile center
– add water if needed
• During the first few weeks temp should
reach 140oF
• After about 4 weeks less heat will be
produced and compost will maintain lower
temp (100oF)
Making compost the fast way(cont.)
• After about 4 more weeks the pile will no
longer heat after turning and volume will
be about one third of original.
• Allow the pile to cure (stand without
turning) for 4 more weeks before using the
compost
When is compost finished?
Compost is mature when
• The color is dark brown
• It is crumbly, loose,
and humus-like
• It has an earthy smell
• It contains no readily
recognizable feedstock
• The pile has shrunk to
about 1/3 of its original volume
Where should I put my compost pile?
• Shaded area will help prevent drying out in summer
• Avoid areas that will interfere with lawn and garden activities
• Adequate work area around the pile
• Area for storage
• Water available
Considerations for locatingthe compost pile
• Good drainage
• Away from any wells
• Near where finished compost will be used
• Be a good neighbor
– Make your composting area attractive, or
– Keep it out of your neighbors’ view
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Bin/pile construction• Ideal size is approximately a 3
foot cube
– Promotes sufficient aeration
– Retains sufficient heat to maintain warm temps
– Piles larger than 5 x 5 x 5 feet are difficult to turn and tend to become anaerobic in the center
Manufactured bins
The Earth Machine BinSoil Saver Bin
Compost Troubleshooting
Odors
Odors are one of the most frequent but easily avoidable
composting problems.
• Rotten odor
– Putrid smell or rotten egg smell
– Usually results from anaerobic conditions
– Excess moisture, compaction
– Turn pile, add dry porous material (browns), cover kitchen
scraps
• Ammonia odor
– Too much nitrogen (greens)
– Add high carbon material (browns), turn pile
Compost Troubleshooting
Temperature
Low pile temperature
• Pile too small, cold weather, too dry, poor aeration, or lacks nitrogen
• Make pile bigger or insulate sides, add water, turn the pile, add greens or manure
High pile temperature
• Pile too large, insufficient ventilation
• Reduce pile size, turn
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Compost Troubleshooting
Pests: raccoons, rats, insects
• Presence of meat scraps or fatty food
waste, rotten odors
• Remove meats and fatty foods, cover
with sawdust or leaves, turn the pile
• Compost in an animal-proof bin
– Covered bin, trash can bin, cone bin, or
barrel bin
– Wire mesh sides and floor (1/4 – 1/2 in
openings)
• Use worm composting
(vermicomposting) for food scraps
Benefits of compost
Plant nutrients
Compost is not a fertilizer, but does contain plant nutrients
• Nitrogen and phosphorus are mostly in organic forms
– Released slowly to plants– Not readily leached from the
topsoil
• Compost contains many trace nutrients that are essential for plant growth
Using finished compost
• Soil amendment– Be sure that compost is mature, has an earthy
smell (no ammonia or rotten smell), looks dark and crumbly with no recognizable feedstock
– Compost improves soil health when mixed in the top 4 to 6 inches (work in no more than a 2” layer of compost)
• Will improve water and nutrient retention of sandy soils
• Will loosen compacted clay soils and make them more friable
Ecolawn self propelled applicator
copyright 2002,
Hlubik, Rutgers, The
State University of
NJ
166
Using finished compost
• Surface mulch in the garden/landscape– Maximum 3” depth
– Start 3-4” from trunk
– Extend out to dripline
• Mulch provides– Protection from temp
extremes
– Slows moisture loss from soil
– Provides some slow release nutrients
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Using finished compost
• Lawn topdressing– Be sure compost is very mature to avoid harming the
lawn
– Use fine (screened) compost, ¼” depth raked over lawn
– Best if lawn is cored before applying compost
– Retains moisture, supplies slow release nutrients, prevents soil compaction
• Potting mix– Compost must be very mature to avoid injury to plants
– Use fine textured compost
– Mix no more than 1/3 compost by volume
Resources
• www.ifplantscouldtalk.rutgers.edu
• Educational demonstrations at the EARTH center at Davidsons Mill Pond Park in South Brunswick, NJ
• Master Gardener Program
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