spinning systems

Spinning SystemsLearning the differences

What is spinning?

The act or processing of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarns.

Dictionary.com

Most common types of spinning for apparel fabrics

•Ring Spinning•Compact•Open End•Air jet

Processing Table

CONVENTIONAL

Fiber CP Syn Carding x x Drawing x x*

Lap wind x Combing x Drawing x x Roving x x Spinning x x Winding x x

Process 8 6

MODERN

Fiber CP Syn Carding x x Drawing x x* Lap wind x Combing x Drawing x x Spinning x x

Process 6 4

Roving

Yarn count ranges: 6’s to 250’s

Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong

Ring Spinning

Perforated Drum

air

Roving

Yarn count range: 6’s to 250+

Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong

Compact Spinning

Yarn Structure

Compact

Ring Spun - SiroRing Spun

Conventional Ring Spun Versus Siro

Ringspun yarn

SwissCotton Royal

Why Royal Spun?

Very good pilling values and durability (Pilling (Martindale) improved by 1.0 to 1.5 grades)

Less surface hairiness, clear mesh structure Excellent evenness of knit fabrics Less fiber accumulations knitted into the fabric Luster Great alternative to plied yarns Less energy Softer than plied yarns More economical than plied yarns

Modern systems are typical “Sliver to Yarn” system

Less Processing !!!

Refer to Slide 4

Open End - Schlafhorst

Open End - Rieter

Typical yarn count range: 6’s to 30’s

Fibers: (1) Fine (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning)

Vdf , Mf

Transport Air Channel

Rotor Yarn Package

Feed RollSliver

Condenser

Sliver

Feed PlateTrashCombing Roll

Open End Rotor Spinning

Typical yarn count range: 20’s to 60’s

Fibers: (1) Long (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning)

Core of

Parallel Fibers

Wrapping

Fibers

N1

N2

Front Roller

Spinnin

g Ten

sion

H

Middle Roller

Back RollerApron Pressure

b

Mai

n Dra

ft

k

Murata Air Jet Spinning

Open End Spinning

Murata Vortex

Rieter Air Jet

Still very new in the market…

Spinning Efficiency and Endsdown:Key Fiber Properties by the order of importance:

Roving

Vdf, Mf

Transport Air Channel

Rotor Yarn Package

Feed RollSliver

Condenser

Sliver

Feed PlateTrashCombing Roll

Core of

Parallel Fibers

Wrapping

Fibers

N1

N2

Front Roller

Spinnin

g Ten

sion

H

Middle Roller

Back RollerApron Pressure

b

Mai

n Dra

ft

k

1. Short Fiber length2. Trash content 3. Roving twist level

1. Trash content2. Short Fiber content 3. Sliver Uniformity

1. Trash content2. Short Fiber Content3. Sliver Uniformity

Fiber Quality Impact

Energy Comparison

Different Yarn Counts =

Different Quality Levels

Do all yarns within the same spinning system require the same type and quality of fibers?

Mic

FSFLFQI

.

FL = HVI Fiber Length (inch)FS = HVI Fiber Strength (g/tex)Mic = Micronaire

FQI Upland Cotton ELS Cotton

Min 3.0 10.0

Max 10.0 15.0

Fiber Quality Index (FQI)

Different Yarn Counts Require Different Fiber Indexes

Fiber Quality Index vs. Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Rotor Spun Carded Yarns

Fiber Quality Index VS Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Compact Combed Yarn

Different Cotton canResult in substantial difference in Quality

and Cost

Is Cotton just Cotton or a Different Cotton can Make a World of Difference?

Ranking By Category

System Pilling Torque Strength Drape Durability* Price

Ring Spinning 3 4 2 1 1 3

Compact 2 3 1 2 2 4

Open End 4 2 4 4 4 2

Air Jet 1 1 3 3 3 1

***The lower the number the better

* Repeated use over time

Assumptions

1. Spinning 30/1 Ne 100% Lenzing Modal Yarn for knits

2. Subsequent processing is the same

What questions should I ask?

There are literally hundreds of variables in the spinning

process which influence the outcome of fabric and

garments.

Fiber Related

Where is the source of fiber? Do you have a relationship with the

fiber producer and spinner? What are the parameters in which

the spinner purchases the fiber? Does the fiber perform to

expectations in relation to yarn count and fabric properties?

How is my garment impacted by fiber cost?

Machine Related

Do you have a relationship with the machine manufacturer?

What are the machine’s unique features?

Does the manufacturer of the machines offer excellent service, adequate training, and able to respond quickly to parts and repair needs?

Supply Chain Related

Is the spinner willing to partner with you and your the supply chain to improve the quality and performance of fabrics?

Same goes with the machinery manufacturer?

Will your fabric supplier be open to the idea of you stating the spinner you want to use? There may be bonds which need to be

broken for this to happen..

Credits

Dr. Yehia El-Mogahzy,Auburn University yehiae@eng.auburn.edu

Rob Beal, Oerlikon rob.beals@oerlikon.com

Mark Lingerfelt, Muratec mlingerfelt@muratec-usa.com

Hans Rothen, Rieter Hans.rothen@rieter.com