tailoring: the classic guide to sewing the perfect jacket

THECLASSICGUIDETOSEWINGTHEPERFECTJACKET

Tailoring

CONTENTS

HowtoUseThisBook

MAKINGSELECTIONSTheStandardsofTailoringSelectingaPatternSelectingaTailoringFabricTailoringPlaidsandStripesInterfacingsforTailoringSelectingLiningsSpecialNotionsforTailoring

TIPS&TOOLSCutting&MarkingToolsPressingEquipmentTools&StitchesforHandwork

BEFOREYOUSEWGettingaGoodFitPreparingthePatternPreparingtheFabric

TAILORINGTECHNIQUESConstructingtheJacketTailoringaNotchedCollarTailoringaShawlCollar

TailoringPocketsTailoringSleevesTailoringHems

FINISHINGTECHNIQUESLiningsPartiallyLinedJacketsTopstitchingButtons&Buttonholes

ResourcesIndex

HOWTOUSETHISBOOKOneofthemostsatisfyingsewingprojectsisatailoredjacketorcoat.Tailoringtakesyouthroughtheprocessstep-by-step.Itguidesyouinselectingthetailoringmethodmostappropriateforyourfabricandpatternchoice,aswellasforyourskilllevelandavailablesewingtime.Mosttailoringproceduresarenotdifficult.Manyareusedineveryday

dressmaking,soprogressingtoatailoredgarmentisanaturalstep.Although“tailored”usuallyimpliesagarmentwithnotchedcollarandlapelsandalining,manyofthetechniquesusedtocreatesuchagarmentarealsousedinconstructingotherjacketandcoatstyles,includingunlinedones.Customtailoringwasoncetheonlytechniqueforcreatingaprofessionally

tailoredgarment,butnowthemachineandfusiblemethodsarenaturalchoiceswhenfaster,easierconstructionisdesired.AllthreemethodsareincludedinTailoringwithsuggestionsforwhereandhowtousethemaloneorin

combination.

MakingSelectionsThefirstsectionofthisbookdescribesthethreetailoringmethodsandexplainshowtochoosegarmentfabrics,interfacings,liningfabrics,andnotionsfortailoring.Becausesomefabricsrespondbettertotailoringthanothers,informationisincludedtohelpyouevaluatefabricsandchooseonlythosethatareappropriate.Interfacingsandthemethodsusedtoapplythemmakethedifferenceinthe

appearanceofaprofessionallytailoredgarment,soyouwillwanttotestnewtechniquesandinterfacingsbeforeusingtheminagarment.Ifyouchoosetailoringwithfusibleinterfacings,besuretoreviewthefusingdirectionsandtheguidelinesforselectingandevaluatingfusibleinterfacings.

TipsandToolsEvenifyoufeelconfidentaboutyoursewingskills,takethetimetoreviewthesectionontipsandtoolsbeforestartingyourtailoringproject.Someofthehandstitchesusedintailoringmaybenewtoyou.Readaboutthesestitches,andpracticethosethatareunfamiliarbeforeusingtheminyourjacketorcoat.Accuratecuttingandmarking,precisemachinestitching,andcareful

trimmingandpressingarealsorequiredtocreateabeautifullytailoredjacketorcoat.Wehaveincludedalistingofthetoolshelpfulfortailoringagarment.Youmayalreadyhavemostofthesetools,soinvestmentinnewtoolsmaybeminimal.

BeforeYouSewBecauseatailoredjacketorcoatisshapedtothebody,youmayneedtoadjust

thepatterntofityourfigure.Tailoringincludesfittingguidelinesanddirectionsforpin-fittingthepatternandmakingatestgarmenttoperfectthefit,alongwithcommonfittingadjustmentsfortailoredgarments.Professionaltailorsusespeciallyshapedinterfacingpiecestocreatesupport

andshapinginatailoredgarment.Usethedirectionsinthissectiontocuttheinterfacingthewaytailorsdo.Toensurethatyourgarmentfabricandinterfacingsarecompatibleandthatthefinishedgarmentwillendurerepeatedcleaningswithoutshrinkage,followthedirectionsforpreparingthefabricbeforecuttingandmarking.

TailoringandFinishingTechniquesMostpatternguidesheetsarewrittenaccordingtospacelimitations,andtheinstructionsaregeneralizedtocoverawiderangeoffabricsandskilllevels.Fortrulyprofessionalresults,usethepatterninstructionsasageneralguideandsupplementthemwiththemoredetailedinstructionsthatareincludedinthisbook.Thetailoringtechniquesareorganizedaccordingtothesequence

recommendedforconstructingatailoredjacketandmayvaryfromtheorderusuallygiveninthepatternguidesheet.Theundercollaristailoredfirsttogiveyouanideaofhowthefabrichandlesandanopportunitytopracticeunfamiliartechniquesonasmallerpieceoffabricbeforeproceedingtothelapels.Customtailoringmethodsareshownfirst,followedbythefastermachineand

fusiblemethods.Evenifyouselectoneofthefastermethods,readthroughthecustommethodfirstforabetterunderstandingoftheshapingtechniqueanddesiredresults.Regardlessofthetailoringmethodyouchoose,theresultwillbeabeautifullytailoredjacketorcoat.

MAKINGSELECTIONS

Therearemanychoicestomakeasyoubeginanyjacketorcoatproject.Selectingapatternisagoodplacetostart.Browsingthroughthepatternbooks,youwillfindmanystyleoptionsinthewaythegarmentismeanttofitandthelevelofdetailworkinvolved.Withpatterninhand,yournextselection,andprobablythemostenjoyableone,willbethefabric.Choosehigh-qualityfabricforboththeoutergarmentandliningthatwillbelong-lastingandeasytoworkwith.Theguidelinesinthissectionwillhelpyoumakethisimportantdecision.Carefullyconsideryouroptionsforselectinginterfacingandnotions,too,asthesechoicesdependonthemethodoftailoringyouwanttofollow.

THESTANDARDSOFTAILORING

Tailoringusesadvancedtechniquesandmaterialstochangeaflatpieceoffabricintoathree-dimensionalgarmentwithstructureandshape.Tailoredjacketsandcoatsaremoldedtobodycontourswithinterfacingstocreatepermanentshapeinthecollarandlapels.Shoulderpads,sleeveheads,andstaytapesupplementtheinterfacingforadditionalshapingandsupport.Carefulpressingsetsthenewshape.Aliningorpartialliningcoverstheinnerconstructiontoextendthewearandtomakethegarmenteasiertoslideonandoffoverotherclothing.Traditionallytailoredjacketsandcoatsareshapedandstructureddesignswith

anotchedorshawlcollar.Mostoftheshapingthatcharacterizesatailoredgarmentisdoneinthisarea.Buttailoringtechniquesarealsoimportantforbuildinginshape,addingsupport,andstabilizingotherjacketsandcoatstyles,suchascollarlesscardiganjackets.Somejacketdesignscombinetailoringanddressmakingtechniquestoachievethesoftlytailoredlookintendedbythedesigner.

TailoringMethodsThreemethodsareavailablefortailoringagarment:custom,machine,andfusible.Customtailoringrequiresthemosthandwork.Handstitching,called

fusible.Customtailoringrequiresthemosthandwork.Handstitching,calledpadstitching,attacheshaircanvasinterfacingtothecollarandlapelsasitbuildsinshape.Althoughitisthemosttime-consumingmethod,customtailoringhasstoodthetestoftimeandisasappropriatetodayasitwasinthepast.Thecustommethodsetsthestandardofafine-qualitygarment.Whensewingtimeislimited,chooseoneofthefastermethods;theyalso

produceexcellentresults.Inthemachinetailoringmethod,haircanvasispadstitchedbymachineinsteadofbyhand.Orusefusibleinterfacingsinsteadofhaircanvasandeliminatehandormachinepadstitching,allowingyourselftocompleteatailoredgarmentinevenlesstime.Fusibleinterfacingmaynotfusesecurelytosomefabrics.Ifyouhaveselectedoneofthesefabricsforatailoredgarmentandwishtouseafastmethodoftailoring,selectthemachinemethod.Aftermakingafewgarments,manytailorsfindthattheypreferonemethod

overanother.Otherscombinecustom,machine,andfusiblemethods,usingdifferentmethodsindifferentareasofthesamegarment.Forexample,youmayprefertoshapethecollarandlapelsusingthecustommethod,yetsavetimebyfusinginterfacingintheventareasandattachingtheliningbymachine.Choosethetailoringmethodthatwillretainthecharacterofthefabricandwill

shapethepatternasdesigned.Thecustommethodprovidesfirmshapinginthecollarandlapelarea,butallowsthesofterdrapeofthefabrictoberetainedinthebodyofthegarment.Thisisalsotrueofgarmentstailoredbythemachinemethod;however,themachinestitchingmaybevisibleontheundercollar,sothismethodisnotusedincollarsthatareintendedtobeturnedupintheback.Whentweedortexturedfabricsandcloselymatchedthreadareused,thisstitchingmaybebarelynoticeable.Beautifulresultsdependonchoosingafigure-flatteringpattern,selecting

appropriateandeasilytailoredgarmentfabrics,andmatchingthemwithcompatibleinterfacingsandlinings.Choosingthetailoringmethodandfabricsthataremostcompatiblewithyouravailablesewingtimeandyourlevelofsewingskillensuresthebestresults.

STANDARDSOFAWELL-TAILOREDJACKETORCOAT

Garmenthasstraight,thinedges,sharpcorners,andsmoothcurves,andallhandworkisinconspicuous.

Frontedges,aswellasthefinishededgesonvents,pocketflaps,andlapelsandcollarpoints,rollorcupslightlyinwardtowardthebody,neveroutward.

Seamsanddartsaresmoothandstraightwithnoobviouscrooksorpuckers.

Facingandhemedgesareattachedsotheydonotshowfromtherightsideofthefinishedgarment.

Sleeveshangstraightwithoutdiagonalwrinklesinthesleevecap.

Lininghasenoughwearingeasesomovementdoesnotcausestrainonthefabric.

Buttonsfitthroughbuttonholeseasilyandareliftedawayfromthegarmentbyshankstopreventstrainandwearonthebuttonholes.

Pocketslieflatandfitthecurveofthebody.

CustomTailoringMethodAcustom-tailoredgarmentisconstructedusingthetraditionalmethodoftailoring.Thismethodisthemosttime-consumingbecauseitrequiresagreatdealofhandwork.

TAILORINGFEATURES

Handpadstitchingisusedtoattachtheinterfacingandtoshapethegarment.

Haircanvassew-ininterfacingisusedtoshapethegarmentfront,undercollar,andhems.

Tapingthelapelrolllineandfrontedgeswithstaytapeisdonebyhand.

Liningisinsertedbyhand.

FusibleTailoringMethod

Agarmenttailoredusingfusibleinterfacingdoesnotrequirepadstitchingandisconstructedentirelybymachineexceptforsettingintheliningsleevesandsewingthehems.

TAILORINGFEATURES

Fusibleinterfacingisusedtoshapethegarmentfront,frontfacing,uppercollar,undercollar,andhems.

Tapingthelapelrolllinebymachinemaybedone,buttapingthefrontedgesisnotnecessary.

Liningisinsertedbymachine,exceptforthesleevelining,whichisattachedbyhand.

MachineTailoringMethod

Amachine-tailoredgarmentisconstructedentirelybymachineexceptforsettingintheliningsleevesandsewingthehems.

TAILORINGFEATURES

Machinepadstitchingisusedtoapplyinterfacingandtoshapetheundercollar;lapelsmayalsobepadstitchedbymachine.

Haircanvassew-ininterfacingisusedtoshapethegarmentfront,undercollar,andhems.

Tapingthelapelrolllineisdonebymachine,andtapingthefrontedgesisnotnecessary.

Liningisinsertedbymachine,exceptforthesleevelining,whichisattachedbyhand.

CombinationofMethods

Agarmentmaybetailoredbycombiningtwoorthreetailoringmethods.Custom,machine,andfusiblemethodsmayallbeusedinthesamegarment.

TAILORINGFEATURES

Haircanvassew-ininterfacingmaybeselectedforundercollarandgarmentfront;fusibleinterfacingmaybeselectedforthefrontfacing,shoulderreinforcement,uppercollar,andhems.

Tapingthelapelrolllinemaybedonebythemachinemethod,andtapingthefrontedgesbythecustom-tailoringmethod.

Liningmaybeattachedbyhandorbymachine.

SELECTINGAPATTERNResearchthefashionsinmagazines,catalogs,boutiques,ordepartmentstorestodeterminewhetherthecurrentlookissoftormorestructured.Tryonthenewestjacketandcoatstylesatastoretodecidewhichshapes,styledetails,fabrics,andlengthssuityou.Becausemoretimeandmoneyareinvestedinatailoredgarmentthanonothersewingprojects,chooseapatternthatiscurrentandthatwillremainfashionableoveraperiodoftime.Chooseajacketorcoatpatternthatwillflatteryourfigureandwillbuildonwhatisalreadyinyourwardrobe.Althoughtailoringtechniquescanbeusedinawidevarietyofjacketandcoat

styles,therearemanyfeaturesthatwell-tailoredgarmentsofteninclude.Forafirsttailoringprojectorwhensewingtimeislimited,chooseajacketwithasimplershawlcollarratherthanthemorecomplicatednotchedcollar.Somejacketandcoatstyleshaveinterestinglapelshapesthataddstyletothegarment.Dolmanorraglansleevestylesalsooffereasierconstruction.Patchpockets

areeasierthanweltpockets.Weltpocketsaretime-consuminganddemandcarefulcuttingandprecisestitching.Beforebuyingapattern,examinetheguidesheettodeterminethecomplexity

ofthepattern.Lookattheshapesofthepatternpieces,thelayout,andthestepsinconstruction.Checkiftherolllinesaremarkedonthepatterntissueorwhetheryouwillneedtomarkthemyourself.

PatternFeaturesforaTailoredGarment

Tailoredcollarmaybenotchedfortraditionaltailoredlook,orshawlstyleforasofterlook.

Boundbuttonholescanbeusedwithanypattern.Theyareaclassicfeatureofatailoredgarment.

Tailoredpockets,suchassingleordoubleweltpockets,areusedforfinedetailing.Patchpocketsmaybeusedintailoredgarmentsforamorecasualeffect.Ifthepatterndoesnotincludethepocketstyleyouprefer,makingasubstitutionisrelativelyeasy.

Sew-insleevesmayhaveupperandundersleevesforbetterfitovertheelbow.

Seamingdetailsmayincludeacenterbackseam,aswellasanunderarmpanelwithsidefrontandsidebackseams,forbetterfittingandshaping.

Topstitchingmaybeaddedtodefineedgesandseamlines.

Fullliningallowsjackettoslideoneasilyoverothergarments.Ifthepatternisforanunlinedorpartiallylinedjacket,afullliningmaybesubstituted.

Sleeveventsandbackventsaretraditionaltailoringdetails.

SELECTINGATAILORINGFABRIC

Investinthehighest-qualityfabricsthatfitwithinyourbudget.Higher-qualityfabricsareeasiertohandle,eliminatingmanysewingproblemsandfrustrations.Tailoredgarmentsofbetterfabricsalsowearlonger.Evaluatethetotalcostofthegarmentandthequalityofthefabricratherthanthepriceperyard.Withtheexceptionoffull-lengthcoats,tailoredgarmentsrequirerelativelysmallyardages.

CharacteristicsofTailoringFabricsTailoringtechniquesaresuitableforawiderangeoffabrics.Almostanycoatingorsuitingfabriccanbetailoredwithoneormoreofthemethodsdiscussed.Forafirsttailoringproject,awoolfabricwithobvioussurfacetexture,suchasatweed,isrecommended.Woolsrespondbeautifullytosteampressingandshaping,andstitchingirregularitiesareeasilyhiddenintexturedsurfaces;however,notallwoolfabricsareeasytotailor.Hard-surfacedwoolworsteds,suchasgabardine,donoteasewell,andpressingismoredifficult;therefore,theyarenotrecommendedfortheinexperiencedtailor.

theyarenotrecommendedfortheinexperiencedtailor.Forbestresults,tailoringfabricsshouldhavethecharacteristicsrecommended

foreasiertailoringinthechartontheoppositepage.Whentailoringamoredifficultfabric,planmoretimefordecisionmakingandtestingandmorecareinstitchingandpressingtoproduceprofessionalresults.Fabricswithobviousdesigns,suchasplaids,stripes,anddiagonals,arenot

recommendedforafirsttailoringprojectorwhensewingtimeislimited.Developskillinmatchingpatternedfabricsinsimplersewingprojectsbeforeattemptingtotailorthem.Whenyourfabricchoiceismorechallenging,selectinganeasierpatternwillsavetimeandsimplifytheproject.Usethreequicktests,opposite,todeterminehowfabricswillrespondtosewingandwearing.

ThreeTestsforSelectingaTailoringFabric

Crushthefabricinyourhand,andreleaseittocheckresilience.Ifcreasesorwrinklesremain,fabricwillbemoredifficulttotailor.

Pushfabricwithyourthumbstocheckdurability.Ifyarnsseparateandfabricdoesnotrecoveritsshape,itwillstretchoutofshapewhensewnorworn.

Testfabricdrapebyplacingfabricoverbustline.Iffabricdoesnotfallintoflatteringfolds,itwillbemoredifficulttotailor.

TAILORINGPLAIDS&STRIPESPlaidsandstripesofferspecialtailoringchallenges.Ifyouareanexperiencedsewer,aplaidorstripedjacketorcoatmaybejusttheprojecttofurtherdevelopyoursewingexpertise.Matchingplaidsandstripesduringlayout,cutting,andsewingcanaddseveralhourstotheconstructionofajacketorcoat.Designssuchashoundstoothsandherringbonesorotherwoven-inpatterns

alsorequirematchingbecausethedesignofthefabricrepeatsinrowsorblocksofcolor.Randomdesignsdonotrequirematching.Therecommendationsthatfollowareforplanningtheplacementofaplaid.

Thesameguidelinesapplyformatchingstripes—considertheplacementofeitherverticalorhorizontallinesonly,dependingonthedirectionofthestripesinthefabric.

SelectingPatterns&FabricsIfthedesignisshowninaplaidinthepatternsketchorphotograph,youcanbesureitissuitableforplaids.Donotconsiderthepatternifitisdescribedas

sureitissuitableforplaids.Donotconsiderthepatternifitisdescribedas“unsuitableforplaidsandstripes”onthebackofthepatternenvelope.Patternmakersincludethisstatementwhenseamshapingmakesitdifficulttomatchthedesign.Choosepatternswithfewseamlinesandsimpledetailstoavoidbreakingup

thefabricdesign.Itisrarelypossibletomatcheverylineateveryseamline,buttoomanyseamsorareasthatdonotmatcharedistracting.Wheneverpossible,avoidhorizontalordiagonalbustlinedartsinplaidjackets.Whenthesedartsarepresent,sideseamsshouldmatchbelowthedartbutwillnotmatchaboveit.Ifelbowshapinginthesleeveiscreatedwithadartoreasing,thelengthwisesleeveseamshouldmatchabovethedartbutwillnotmatchbelowit.

PlacementTipsMakingatestgarment(pages50to53)isagoodideasinceitisimportanttoestablishfinishedhemlengthsandmakeanymajorfittingchangesbeforeplanningtheplaidlayout.Beforecuttingandlayout,decidetheplacementofplaiddesignlineswithin

thegarmentandwheretheywillfallonthebody.Avoidplacingadominanthorizontallineorblockoflinesatthebustlineandwaistlineifpossible.Experimentwiththefabricdrapedfromshouldertohem.Someplaidgarmentslookmorebalancedwhenthehemlinefallsatthebottomofadominantcrosswiseline.Ifyouwishtodrawtheeyeawayfromthehemline,placethehemlinebetweentwodominantlines.Placedominantverticallinesatthecenterfrontandcenterback,orposition

thepatternsothecenterfrontishalfwaybetweentwodominantverticallines.Positiontheuppersleeveinthesameway,usingtheshoulderdotastheguideforcenteringthesleeveonorbetweenthedominantverticallines.Theplaidmaynotmatchattheshoulderseams,theseamwheretheuppercollarmeetsthelapel,andthebacknotchinthearmholeofaset-insleeve.Pockets,cuffs,andpocketflapsshouldbecutafterthefirstfittingbecauseplacementmayneedtobeadjusted.

HowtoMatchDesignsinaTailoredJacketorCoat

1Layouteachpieceinsinglelayer;beginwithjacketfront.Positioncenterfrontonorbetweentwodominantverticallines.Checkpositionfordesiredcrosswiselinesatbust,waist,andhem.Cutsinglelayerofjacketfront;removetissue.

2Turnoverjacketfronttouseaspatternformatchingandcuttingsecondpiece.Cutfrontfacingwithcrosswiselinesmatchingatfrontedge.Lapelseamlinefollowsdominantverticallinesasmuchaspossible;facingmaybeoffgrain.

3Positioncenterbackonorbetweentwodominantverticallinesasforcenterfront.Positionpatternonfabric,matchingnotches(arrows)offrontandbackpiecesatthesamepointintheplaiddesignattheseamline.

4Cutaroundoutsideedgesofbackpattern;marktopandbottomoffoldline.Removetissue;foldfabric,matchingplaids.Cutaroundremaininghalf.Cutuppercollartomatchatcenterback.

5Centersleeveonorbetweendominantverticallines.Positionpatternsoplaidmatchesjacketatfrontnotch(arrows)atseamline.Donotforceamatchatbacknotch.Cutsinglelayer;turnoversleevetouseaspatternforsecondsleeve.

6Placepatchorflappocketpatternpiecesinpositionongarmentatfirstfitting;pencilinplaidlinelocationformatching.Layoutpocketsonfabric;cut.

INTERFACINGSFORTAILORINGInterfacingaddsbodyandshapethroughtheshouldersandchestandatthearmholesoftailoredgarments.Itsupportsthebackofthegarmentandaddsfirmness,stability,andlinedefinitiontothefrontedgesortodesigndetails,suchaspocketsandcuffs.Interfacingalsohelpsproduceasmoothrollinthecollarandlapels,andcushionshemedgesforbetterwear.Incustom-tailoredgarments,haircanvasandthegarmentfabricforthecollar

andlapelsareshapedoveryourhand.Thehaircanvasisthensewntothegarmentfabricwithpadstitches.Whenfusibleinterfacingischosen,shapingisachievedwithsteampressing.Decidewhetheryouwanttocreateasoftlytailoredormorestructured

garment.Thisdecisiondependsonpersonalpreference,thecurrentfashiontrend,andthepatternyouhavechosen.Thenselecttheappropriatetailoringmethod:custom,machine,orfusibletailoring—oracombination.Asyouexperimentwithdifferenttailoringmethodsandinterfacingapplicationsineachnewgarmentyoumake,thechoicesforfuturetailoringprojectswillbecomeeasier.

Sew-inInterfacingsForcustomtailoring,purchasethebestavailablegradeofhaircanvas.Haircanvasshouldbepliable,firmlywoven,noncrushable,andresilient.Mosthaircanvasisablendofwool,goathair,andcottonorrayon.Ahighwoolcontentofatleast30to40percentmakesthehaircanvassofter,easiertohandle,andeasiertoshapewithsteampressing.Goathairmakesthehaircanvasresilientandmorewrinkleresistant.Italsohelpstheinterfacingclingtothegarmentfabrictomakethetwofabricsactasone.Thehaircontentshouldbe7to17percent.Highcontentofrayonorcottonisnotasresilient.Italsowrinklesmoreeasilyandisnotasresponsivetoshaping.Alightweightwoveninterfacingbackstaysupportsthebackofatailored

jacketorcoat(page56).Choosemuslinorbroadclothtoblendwithormatchthegarmentfabric.Whenthegarmentisasimplerstylewithoutacollarorlapel,interfacingisnecessaryforsupportonly,ratherthanforshaping.Nonwovenorwovensew-ininterfacingfabricsotherthanhaircanvasmaybeused.Sometimesitisnecessarytoaddanothershapingfabriclayertoatailoring

fabricbeforeconstructingthegarment.Thislayeriscalledanunderlining.Itliesdirectlyunderthegarmentfabricandisbastedtothewrongsideofeachgarmentpiece;itisappliedbeforetheinterfacing.Underliningisnotrecommended

piece;itisappliedbeforetheinterfacing.Underliningisnotrecommendedunlessneededtostabilizeanopen-weavefabricortohideseamallowancesandinnerconstructionsotheydonotshowthroughalight-coloredgarmentfabric.Avoidaddinganunderliningtomakeagarmentfabricmoresuitableforastructured,tailoredgarment.

TypesofInterfacingsforTailoring

Sew-ininterfacings.Usehaircanvas(1)forshapingtheundercollar,lapel,andhemsofcustom-tailoredandmachine-tailoredgarments.Alightweightwoveninterfacingisusedforthebackstay;selectmuslin(2)orbroadcloth(3)toblendwithormatchthegarmentfabric.Lambswool(4)maybeusedwheresoftpaddingisdesired,suchasforsleeveheads,orforaddedwarmthasaninterlining.

Fusibleinterfacings.Interfacingsusedforfusibletailoringarewoven(1),nonwoven(2),knit(3),andweft-insertion(4).Awidevarietyofweightsisavailableforfirmshapingofstructuredgarmentsorsuppleshapingforsoftertailoring.

HowtoTestSew-inInterfacings

1Crushasmallportioninyourhand;thenrelease.Noticeablewrinklesremainingafterthefabricrelaxesindicatepoorresilience.

2Sandwichinterfacingbetweentwolayersofthegarmentfabrictofeeltheweightandbody.

3Rollinterfacingoveryourhandtodetermineitsflexibility.Foldthelayerstostimulatetherollofacollar;theyshouldformasoftrollwithoutsharppointsorbreaks.

Forunderlining,selectalightweightwovenfabric,suchasmuslinorbroadcloth,andchoosethecolorcarefully.Fusibleknitinterfacingsmayalsobeused.Placethegarmentfabricovertheunderliningtocheckforanycolorchange.Underlineonlythebodyandsleeves,unlessthefabrichasaveryopenweave;thenunderlinetheentiregarmenttopreventanoticeabledifferenceinthecolorordetails.

FusibleInterfacingsFusibleinterfacings,whichhaveaheat-activatedresincoatingononeside,eliminatemostofthetime-consuminghandwork.Whenappliedproperly,theyprovidethesamekindofshapingandsupportassew-ininterfacings.Fusibleinterfacingsshouldnotbeusedonfabricsthatwillbedamagedby

prolongedheat,pressure,andmoisture.Theymaynotfusepermanentlytoheavilytexturedfabricsorthosewithslick,glazedsurfaces.Donotusefusibleinterfacingonfabricstreatedforwaterrepellencyorstainresistance.Thesefabricsaretreatedwithsilicone,whichpreventsbonding.Fusiblesareavailableinvariousweightsandtypes.Therearefourcategories:

woven,nonwoven,knit,andweft-insertion.Whencomparinginterfacingsofthesameweightfromdifferentcategories,youwillfindsubtledifferencesinthewaytheydrapeandroll.Selectingtheappropriateweightismorecriticalthanselectingwhichtypeofinterfacingtouse;however,knowingthedifferencesbetweencategorieswillhelpyouproducethedesiredeffectinatailoredgarment.Testseveralinterfacingstofeelandseehowtheinterfacingshapesthegarmentfabric.Selecttheinterfacingthatgivestheeffectyoulike.

TYPESOFFUSIBLEINTERFACINGS

Wovenfusibleinterfacingsstretchonthebias,butarestablecrosswiseandlengthwise.Theselectionoffusiblewovensthataresuitablefortailoringislimited.Fusiblehaircanvasisavailablebutmaybetoostiffwhenfusedtothegarmentfabric.

Nonwovenfusibleinterfacingsusuallyhavecrosswisestretchbutnolengthwisestretch.Generallytheyarelessflexiblethanotherinterfacings.Somearespongy,enablingthemtoworkwellwithcorduroysandvelveteen.All-biasnonwovenfusibleinterfacingsstretchinalldirectionsforgreaterflexibility.

Fusibleknitinterfacingshavecrosswisestretch,butnolengthwisestretch.Theyprovidesoft,suppleshapingandaremoreflexiblethanotherfusibleinterfacings.

Weft-insertionfusibleinterfacingsarestablecrosswiseandlengthwise,becauseayarniswoveninandoutoftheknitstitchesacrossthefabric.Likewoveninterfacings,theystretchonthebias.Theygivefirm,yetsupple,shaping.

SELECTINGFUSIBLEINTERFACING

GUIDELINESFOREVALUATINGFUSIBLEINTERFACINGTESTS

Interfacingissecurelybondedtofabric.Ifnot,fuseagainwithmoreheat,time,andpressure.Iffusibleinterfacingdoesnotadheresecurely,useasew-ininterfacing.

Interfacingissmooth.Ifinterfacingbubbles,ironistoohot.Lowerthetemperature,andincreasethefusingtimeifnecessaryforsmoothbond.

Fabricsurfaceissmoothandpucker-free.Ifnot,fuseagainwithmoretimeandpressure.Interfacingmaybetooheavyforfabric,orheatandmoisturemayhavecausedfabrictoshrink.Preshrinkfabric;testagain.

Colorhasnotchanged,andthereisnovisibleridgeatcutedgeofinterfacing.Ifpinkedandstraightedgesshow,interfacingistooheavyforfabric.

Drapeandweightaresatisfactory.Interfacingshouldshapefabricwithasmoothrollthathasaslightlyroundededge.Breaksinthefoldindicatethatinterfacingistooheavy.

Becausefusibleinterfacingschangethecharacterofthegarmentfabricandeveryfabricrespondsdifferently,testingisnecessarytoselectthebestinterfacingforthefabric.Testseveraltypesandweightsofinterfacingonasampleofthegarmentfabric.Tomaketestingandselectioneasyandconvenient,keepanassortmentoffusibleinterfacingsonhand.Anassortmentwillgiveyoutheflexibilityofusingmorethanoneinterfacinginagarment.Forexample,youcanuseaheavierinterfacingforundercollarandlapels,andalighteronefordetailsandhems.Beforetestingtheinterfacingchoices,preshrinkthegarmentfabricand

interfacings(page61).Followthemanufacturer’sfusingdirectionsthatcomewitheachinterfacing.Foreasycomparison,fusetheinterfacingsamplestoastripofthegarmentfabric.Evaluatetestsamples,usingtheguidelinesatleft.Labelandsavetestsfor

futurereference.

HowtoTestFusibleInterfacings

1Cutalongstripofgarmentfabric6″(15cm)wide.Cut3”(7.5cm)squaresofeachinterfacing:pinkoneedgeofeach.Cutsmalltriangleoffabric;tuckunderonecornerofeachinterfacingfortab.Fuseinterfacing,opposite.

2Pullfabrictab;trytopeelawayinterfacing.Fabricandinterfacingshouldfeelpermanentlybonded.

3Foldfabricstripinhalfoverinterfacings.Foldeachinterfacingagainstitselftosimulatelayersatfrontedgeofgarment.Evaluatetestsample,usingthechartabove.

HowtoApplyFusibleInterfacing

1Positioninterfacingonwarmfabric,resinsidedown;smoothintoplace.Lightlymistinterfacingwithwater,orsteamshrink(page61).Positionpressclothanddampenwithliberalmisting,evenwhenusingsteamiron.

2Startatcenteroflargeorlongpiecesofinterfacing,andworktowardeachendtofuse.Donotslideironfromonepositiontothenext.Toensurecompletecoverage,overlapfusedareaswithiron.

3Usetwo-handedpressure,andleanoniron;fuseforrecommendedtime,10to15secondsformostfusibleinterfacings.Otherwise,bondwillnotbepermanentandwilleventuallyseparatefromfabric.

4Pressthefusedareafromrightsideoffabricforbetterbonding.Useapressclothorironsoleplateguardtoprotectfabricsurface.Coolanddryfusedfabricsbeforemovingthem;interfacingiseasilyreshapedordistortedwhilewarm.

Afterselectingtheappropriateinterfacing,cutinterfacingpiecesaccordingtothemanufacturer’srecommendationsforgrainlinedirectionbecausethedirectionofstretchvarieswiththetypeofinterfacing.Preheattheirontothewoolsetting.Justbeforefusing,steampressthegarmentfabrictoremovewrinklesandtowarmthefabric.Fusetheinterfacingtothegarment,followingthemanufacturer’s

recommendationsforirontemperature,time,pressureandmoisture.Thefusingmethod,above,willensureaperfectbondandcanbeusedasgeneralfusingdirectionsifyoudonothavethemanufacturer’sinstructions.

SELECTINGLININGSSelectingliningfabricsforatailoredgarmentisasimportantasselectingthegarmentfabric.Theliningisthefinishingtouch,coveringtheinnerconstructionandprotectingthegarmentfabricfromunnecessarywear.Italsoabsorbsmostofthewearingstrainandpreventsthejacketfromstretchingoutofshape,particularlywherecloselyfitted.

Liningsshouldbeasdurableasthegarmentfabric.Althoughitispossibletoreplacealiningthatshowssignsofwear,itisatime-consumingprocess.Purchaseahigh-qualityliningthatwillwithstandrepeatedwearinganddrycleaning.Fibercontentandweavearecluestothedurabilityofliningfabrics.Most

liningfabricsaremadefromsyntheticfibers.Bembergrayonandrayon/acetateblendsarerecommendedbecausetheyaremoreabsorbentthanothersyntheticfibers.Theyfeelmorecomfortabletowear,particularlyinhot,humidclimates.Forthisreason,theyareparticularlyappropriateforspringandsummerjackets.Acetateliningsmaybeaffectedbyperspirationandarenotasdurableasthose

madeofBembergrayon.Polyesterfibersareverydurablebutnotasabsorbentasrayonandacetate,andtheyareuncomfortableinhot,humidclimates.Polyesterliningsareanexcellentchoiceforcoatlinings,whichareusuallysubjectedtomorewearthanjacketlinings.Silkfibers,althoughluxurious,arenotusuallyrecommendedforliningsbecausetheyaredamagedbyperspiration.Theliningshouldbelighterinweightandsofterthanthegarmentfabric,with

asmoothsurfacethatslidesoverotherfabricswithoutrustling.Chooseonethatfallsintosoftfoldswhendrapedoveryourhand.Testliningchoicesbyslidingthemacrossthegarmentfabricsurface.Avoidtexturedliningsthatclingtoothergarments.Forthisreason,usethesatinsideofcrepe-backsatinastherightsideofthelining.Thetexturedcrepesidewillclingtothegarmentfabricandholditinplaceinthejacket.

Fabricweave.Satin(1)feelssmoothandsoftbuthasfloatyarns,whichsnageasily;choosesatinweaveswithshortfloatyarns.Twillweaves(2)arestrongerthanplain(3)andsatinweaves.Someliningfabricshavewovenjacquardordobbydesigns(4)createdbyyarnsthatfloatonthesurface,formingapattern.Ifthesedesignshavelongfloats,theymaycatchonwatchesandjewelry.

Liningcolor.Chooseasolidcolor(1)thatmatchesorblendswiththefabric.Subtle,classicprints(2)areanotherchoice.Bolderdesigns(3)suchasprints,plaids,andstripesaddvisualinterest,buttheymaynotcoordinatewitheverygarmentyouplantowearwiththecompletedjacket.

Althoughajacketorcoatliningisontheinsideofthefinishedgarment,theedgesofthesleeveliningoftenshowortheliningisoftenvisiblewhenyoumove,socolorisanimportantconsideration.Theliningcolormustbedarkenoughtocoverseamandhemedgesandinnerconstruction,butnotsodarkthatisshowsthroughtotherightsideofthegarmentfabric.Theliningcoloristoolightifyoucanseetheinterfacingthroughthelining.Manygarmentfabricsintendedforblousesanddressesarealsogoodforlinings.Thecolorrangeiswider,somatchingtheliningtothegarmentfabriciseasier.

Outerwearlining.Specialliningfabricsforwarmwintercoatsarealsoavailable.Somearebackedwithspecialaluminumcoatings(1);othersarewovenorlaminatedtoawarmflannelbacking(2).Thecolorrangeinthesespecializedfabricsisusuallylimited.Whenacolormatchisimpossible,interlineatraditionalliningfabric(page111)withaninsulatinglayeroffabric,suchaslambswool(3)orflannel(4).

SPECIALNOTIONSFORTAILORING

Shoulderpadsplayakeyroleinshapinggarments,andtheyareavailableinavarietyofshapesandsizes.Standardshoulderpads(1)squaretheshouldersofgarmentswithset-insleeves.Usetheseforstandardfitorextendedshoulderstyles.Raglanshoulderpads(2)softlysupporttheshoulderareaforaroundedshaping.Theyareusedingarmentsthathaveraglanordolmansleevesordroppedshoulders.Shoulderpadsshouldbelargeenoughtocovertheentireshoulderarea,

stoppingabout1″(2.5cm)fromthenecklineandextendinginfronttofillthehollowabovethebust.Inback,theyshouldbenarrowenoughtocleartheshoulderblades.Checkthepatternenvelopeforthecorrectpadthicknessandstyle.Changing

thethicknessrequiresachangeinfittingtheshoulderareaofthegarment.Evenwhenheavilypaddedshouldersarenotafashiontrend,thinshoulderpadsareusedintailoredgarmentsforsoftshouldershaping,support,andlongerwear.Specialpatternsformakingyourownshoulderpadsareavailable,buttosave

time,youmaywanttousepurchasedshoulderpads.Choosecoveredstylesforunlinedorpartiallylinedjacketsandcoats.Buttonsadddistinctiontoatailoredgarmentandshouldsuitthestyleofthegarment.Simple,high-qualitybuttons,suchasbone,horn,motherofpearl,andbrass,workwellonmosttailoredgarments.Choosebuttonswiththegarmentfabricinhand,spacingthemastheywillbeonthefinishedgarment.Standbacktoseehowtheywilllookfromadistance.Alargerorsmallerbuttonthanthesizespecifiedonthepatternenvelopemaylookoutofproportion.Buyextrabuttonsforreplacementpurposes.

Pocketingfabric(1)isusuallyrecommendedforlonger-wearinginnerpocketsintailoredgarments,butisavailableonlyinbasiccolors.Substitutealightweightfirmlywoventwillfabric(2)incottonoracotton/polyesterblendifyouareunabletofindpocketing.Avoidstiffpocketingsof100percentpolyester.Toreducebulk,cutliningsforpatchpocketsfromliningfabric(3)ratherthanself-fabric.Staytape(showntwicethesize)stabilizesseamstopreventstretching.Atthelapelrollline,italsoshapesthelapeltobodycurves.Tapingshoulderseamsshapesthemtothecurveoftheshoulder.Incustomtailoring,haircanvasseamallowancesareremoved,andstaytapesecurestheinterfacingtothegarment.Tapingisoptionalwithmachineandfusiblemethods.Ideally,staytapeis3/8″(1cm)wide,thin,andpliable,makingiteasyto

controlatcornersandcurves.Althoughpolyestertwilltape(4)isoftenused,plainweavetape(5)ofcottonorlinenispreferred;itisthinandshapeseasilywithsteampressing.Itisnotalwaysavailableinfabricstoresbutcanbepurchasedfromatailors’supplyhouse.Warpknitstaytape(6)canbetrimmedto3/8″(1cm),withoutraveling.Donotsubstituteseambinding;itistoowideanddoesnotshapewell.Asleevehead(shownhalfthesize)preventsthesleevecapofaset-insleevefromcollapsing.Placedbetweenthesleevecapandtheseamallowance,thesleeveheadalsopreventstheseamallowancefromshowingthroughtotherightsideofthegarment,anditgentlyshapesthesleeve.Purchasenonwovensleeveheads(7),ormakecustomsleeveheads(8)frombiasstripsofheavyflannelorlambswool(page98).

TIPS&TOOLS

Havingtherighttoolsonhandandknowinghowtousethemwillmakeyourtailoringexperiencemoreenjoyableandsuccessful.Aswithanyartform,skillfuluseofthetoolsmaytakealittlepractice,especiallyifthemethodspresentedarenewtoyou.Takeguidancefromtheexperttailorswhoprovidedthisinformation,andlearntodothedetailworkshowninthissection.Youwillbeamazedatwhatadifferencethesestepsmakeinthequalityofyourfinishedgarments.

CUTTING&MARKINGTOOLS

Selectingappropriatetoolsandusingthemcorrectlyareimportantintailoring.Toproducehigh-qualitygarments,purchasethebesttoolsthatfitwithinyourbudget.Locatetheminthenotionsareaatafabricstore,insewingmail-ordercatalogs,oronWebsites.ChecktheResources(page124)orsearchtheInternetfortailoringsupplies.

Accuratecuttingandmarkingareessentialforthegarmenttobeassembledcorrectlyandtofitwell.Planenoughtimetocutandmarkallfabricsforthegarmentbeforestoringtheproject.Movingandfoldingcutpieces,thenmarkinglater,isinaccuratebecausethepatterntissueshifts;foldsinthetissueandfabricpiecesresultindistortedmarkings.Alargecuttingsurfacemakescuttingeasierandmoreaccurate,prevents

fabricsfromslidingandpullingoutofshape,anddoublesasalargepressingsurface.Tomakeyourowncuttingsurface,padahollow-coredoororapieceofpressedboardorplywoodthatisatleast30″x48″(76x122cm).Fortheinnerlayers,usewool;fortheoutersurface,useheavycottonmuslinorcanvas.

layers,usewool;fortheoutersurface,useheavycottonmuslinorcanvas.Prewashthesurfacefabrictoremovesizing,whichscorchesquickly,stickstotheiron,andsoilsyourwork.Ifpossible,placethepaddedsurfaceonatableorchestatacomfortablestandingheight.Foramorepermanentarrangement,padthetopofaninexpensivewoodentable.

ToolsforTailoringBent-handleddressmaker’sshears(1),below,withsharp,smoothbladesareessentialforcuttingaccuracy.Theangleofthelowerbladeallowsthefabrictolieflatasyoucut.Buythemostcomfortablelengthandsizeforyourhand.Choosequalityshearsofhot-forged,high-grade,chrome-platedsteel.Anadjustablescrew,notarivet,joiningthebladesprovidesasmoothandcomfortablecuttingaction.Oilthescrewoccasionally,andwipelintfromthebladesfrequentlyforthebestcuttingaction.

Rotarycutter(2)andmatcanbesubstitutedfordressmaker’sshearsifyouareskilledandcomfortablewiththesetools.Rotarycuttersareavailableintwosizes:Choosethelargecutterforheavycoatingsorthick,spongyfabrics;choosethesmallercutterforallothertailoringfabrics.

Tailor’spoints(3)ina5″(12.5cm)lengtharedouble-pointed,verysharpscissorsusedfortrimming,clipping,andsnipping.Insmallandtightareas,thesescissorsgivemorecontrolthanlong-handledshears.Careful,accuratetrimmingandclippingeliminatebulkandproduceclean,sharp,flatedges,themarkofacarefullytailoredjacketorcoat.Duck-billedappliquéscissors(4)mayalsobeusedfortrimmingseams.

Pinkingshears(5)arehelpfulforsofteningorfeatheringtheedgesoffusibleinterfacings.Thistechniqueensuresthatinterfacingedgeswillnotbenoticeablefromtherightsideofthegarment.

Longpins(6)withlargeheadsmakeiteasiertopinintothickandspongytailoringfabrics.Finesilkpins(7)areidealforsilkyliningfabrics.

Tailor’schalkandmarkingpensarereadilyavailableandeasytouse.Claychalkcakesinplasticcontainerswithbuilt-insharpeners(8),powderedchalkinconvenientdispensers(9),andchalkpencils(10)workbestonflat-surfacedfabrics.Waxedchalkcakes(11)arebetterontexturedwoolsandothernubbyfabrics,butaredifficulttoremoveonhard-surfacedfabrics.Penswithdisappearingorwater-solubleink(12)mayleavemarksonfabrics,especiallyifyoupressoverthemarkings,sotestfirst.

Atracingwheel(13)usedwithdressmaker’stracingpaper(14),marksconstructionlinesonliningandinterfacingfabricsandsmooth-surfaced,lightweightgarmentfabrics.Thesawtoothwheeltracesadistinct,thickline,

suitableformostfabrics.Useasmooth-edgedwheelondelicatesurfaces.

Multi-strandembroideryfloss(15)makesquickworkoftailor’stacks,eliminatingtheneedtomakeandcutmultiplethreadloops.Darningcottonmayalsobeusedforthispurpose.

Asee-throughruler(16)withaccurate1/8″(3mm)gridlineshelpsmarklinesforpadstitchingoncollarandlapels;itisalsousedinpatternalterations.

TRIMMING&GRADING

Edgesintailoredgarmentsshouldbethinandcrisp;seamedgesshouldrollslightlytotheinside.Achievethisbygradingenclosedseamallowances.Trimseamlayersinastaggeredfashion,withthewidestseamallowancelyingagainstthegarmenttocushiontheremainingseamlayerssotheydonotshowthroughtotherightside.Seamsthatintersectarebulky.Eliminateasmuchthicknessaspossiblebytrimmingatseamintersections.Toreducethethicknessoflayers,trimsew-ininterfacingclosetothe

seamline.Itisnotnecessarytotrimfusibleinterfacings.Whenincludedintheseamallowance,theyactasastabilizer,makingitpossibletotrimseamsascloseas1/8″(3mm)withoutfearofraveling.Thisisespeciallyhelpfulinlooselywovenfabricsandforcurvedenclosedseams.

TipsforTrimmingandGradingSeamsandDarts

Trimseamallowancesanddartsonintersectingseamsafterpressingandbeforejoiningtothenextsection.Trimto1/4”(6mm)belowseamline.

Trimacrosscollarandlapelpointsclosetostitching.Trimdiagonallyalongsidesforasmooth,crisppoint.

Gradeenclosedseamallowances.Trimeachlayeradifferentwidth,withwidestedgeagainstgarment.Firmlywovenfabricmaybetrimmedto1/8″(3mm).

Gradeneckfacingseamallowancesto1/4″(6mm)tostaggertheseamallowancelayers.Donottrimgarmentseamallowances.

Notchoutsidecurvesclosetostitching,removingwedgesfromseamallowance.Spacenotchesclosertogetherondeepcurves,fartherapartonshallowones.Alternatenotchesonfacingandgarment.

Notchseamallowancesathemfoldlineforthin,smoothfold,andtrimseaminhemallowancesto1/4″(6mm).Trimdiagonallyatcutedgeofhemtoreducebulk.

Beveltrimmedseamsinthickfabricstofurtherreducebulkaftergrading.Holdscissorsatanangle,andskimtrimmededges.

Shortenstitchesaroundoutsidecurves,andtrimseamtoascant1/8″(3mm)inthecurvedarea.Usethismethodwhentailoringwithfusibleinterfacings.

PRESSINGEQUIPMENT

Usingtherightpressingequipmentwithcorrectpressingtechniquesisessentialtoshapingatailoredgarmenttofitbodycontourssmoothly.Pressingasyousewisasimportantasaccuratestitching.

Apressclothofsmoothfabricisabufferbetweentheironandthegarmentfabrictopreventoverheating,scorching,andsurfaceshine.Useadampenedsee-throughpressclothforfusing.Woolpressclothsholdmoistureandprotectthesurfacenapandtextureinwoolsandsyntheticsuedes.Thebestpressclothforpressingontherightsideoffabricisoftenalarge

scrapofthegarmentfabric.Useaheavypressclothtoretainmoremoistureforpressingheavyfabric;usealighteroneforpressingthin,finefabric.Acushionedpressingpadpreventsflatteningraiseddetails,suchasboundbuttonholes,pockets,andflaps.Useabristledpressclothoravelvetlikepadtoavoidflatteningnappedorpilefabricswhenpressing.Covertheironsoleplatewithaperforatedironguardforpressingontheright

sideoffabricwithoutapresscloth.Removetheironguardandcleanthesoleplatefrequentlytopreventcorrosionfromlintbuildupandmoisture.

ToolsforPressingAnironingpress(1)issuitablefortailoringwithfusibleinterfacings.Fuselargegarmentsectionsinonestep;orgroupandfusesmallpieces,suchasthecollarandpocketpieces,onthebedofthepress.Pressureofapproximately100pounds(45.4kg)ensuresagoodbondforinterfacingwhenfusedaccordingtomanufacturer’sdirections.

Professionalironingsystem(2)withagravity-flowsteamsystemisexpensivebutworththeinvestmentifyouwanttoupgradeyourequipment.

Steamiron(3)providesheatandsteamtoshrinkandshapefabrics.Alarge,heavysoleplateisnecessaryforfusinginterfacings.Fusibleinterfacingsrequirepressurefromtheweightoftheironforasmooth,permanentbond.Anironwithasurge-of-steambuttonprovidesoptimumsteamingandeliminatestheneedforadampenedpressclothwithadryiron.Fortailoring,avoidcordlessandautomatic-offirons,whichdonotmaintainheatoveraperiodoftime.Theymakefusingtime-consumingsinceyoumustwaitfortheirontoreheatperiodically.

Tailor’spressingboard(4)isasmalltabletopironingboardusedforpressingdetails.Thenarrowendistherightsizeandshapeforshrinkingoutsleevecapfullness.Pressingboardsandironingboardsshouldbepaddedwithlayersofwooltoretainmoisture.Asoft,prewashedcottoncoverabsorbsexcessmoistureandhelpspreventironshineongarmentfabrics.Apaddedcuttingsurface(page30)isagoodsubstituteforanironingboard.Itprovidessupportfortheentiregarmentandeliminatesstretchingwhilethegarmentisdampwithsteam.

Tailor’sham(5)isusedforpressingshapedareas,suchasdarts,curvedseams,collar,andsleevecaps.Awoolcoveringononesideholdssteamwhenyoupresswoolfabrics.Usethecotton-coveredsideforpressingathightemperatures.Ahamholderkeepsthehaminthedesiredpositionandleavesyourhandsfreetoworkwiththegarmentandiron.

Pressingmitt(6)issoftlypaddedandfitsoveryourhandortheendofasleeveboard.Usethemittasapressingsurfaceinareaswhereatailor’shamdoesnotfit,especiallyshouldersandset-insleeves.

Sleeveboard(7)isaminiatureironingboardwithtwosidesofdifferentsizesforpressingsmalldetailsandnarrowopenings,suchascompletedsleevehems.

Clapper(8)isaroundedwoodenblockusedtoflattenseams,folds,creases,andenclosededges,suchasfacingsandcollars.Coolhardwoodspeedssteam

removalandcoolingtosetthepress.

Pointpresser(9)ismadeofhardwoodforpressingseamsopeninlapelandcollarpoints.Onetypeisattachedtoaclapper.

Seamroll(10)isafirmlypacked,tubularcushionforpressingseamsopenwithoutimprintingtheseamallowanceedgestotheoutsideofthegarment.Itisessentialforpressingseamsincompletedsleeves.Narrowpaperstripsplacedunderdartandpleatedgesalsopreventedgeimpressionsontherightside.

Contouredpressingboard(11)hasnumerousshaped,pointed,andcurvededgesandsurfaces.Usewithoutapadforthin,crispedges.Usewithapadforasofteredgefinishandfordetailsthatshouldbeshapedintothegarment,suchasset-in-sleeves,darts,andshoulderandhiplineseams.

Pointerandcreaser(12)isaflatwoodentoolwithapointedendusedtopushoutandturnsharpcorners,andaroundedendusedtocreaseandholdseamsopenforpressing.

PRESSINGTECHNIQUESCarefulstep-by-steppressing,combinedwithtrimming,clipping,andgrading,eliminatesexcessfabricthicknessandcreatesacrisp,customfinish.Thegoalistoproduceseams,darts,edges,andcornersthataresmooth,flat,andthin.Thiscannotbeachievedifallpressingisleftuntillastorcorrecttrimming,clipping,andgradingmethodsarenotused.Correctpressingopensandflattensseams,hems,andenclosededgeswithout

leavingimprintsontherightsideofthegarment.Italsosetstheshapeincurvedseamsanddarts,andshrinksoutfullnessinsleevecapsandhems.Theoriginaltexture,color,andfinishofthefabricareretainedwhenpressingisdonecorrectly.

TIPSFORPRESSING

Testironsettingandeffectsofsteamonasampleseamanddartsewninfabricscraps.Press,usinglower-pause-liftmotion.Donotslideironfromplacetoplace.Presseachseambeforecrossinganotherseam.Domostpressingonwrongsideoffabric.Usecorrectpressclothwhenpressingfromtherightside.Thepressclothprotectsfabricfromoverpressingandfromchangesinfabricsurface,hand,andappearance.Donotpressoverpinsorbastingunlessthebastingisstitchedwithsilkthread.Keepseamlineperfectlystraightwhenpressingstraightseams,soseamshangcorrectly.Presscurvedseamsanddartsonshapedpressingequipmenttopreventdistortedorstretchedlines.Allowpressedareastocoolbeforemoving.Iffabricmustbemoved,liftandsupportitwithbothhandstopreventthefabricfromstretchingoutofshape.

PerfectlyPressed

Perfectlypressedseams,darts,andedgesarethin,smooth,andpucker-freewithnoedgeimprintsontherightside.Fabrictexturedoesnotchangewhenpressedcorrectly.

Overpressed

Overpressedseams,darts,andedgesimprinttotheoutside.Fabricisshinyandflattenedfromtoomuchheatorpressure.Overpressingwithtoomuchmoisturemayshrinktheseamlineandcauseripples.

Underpressed

Underpressededgesarerounded,andseamsanddartshavepronouncedwells,orindentations.

TwoWaystoUseaClapper

Steamasmallsectionofseamatatime.Placeclapperonsteamedarea,andpressdown,usingbothhands.Holdclapperinplaceuntilareaiscoolanddry.Repeat,workinginsmallsectionsforentireseam.

Steamandslapedgesofenclosedseamsandthickareaswithclapperuntilsmooth,flat,andcrisp.Forthickerfabrics,increasepressuretolightpoundingwithclapper;repeat,increasingpressureasneeded.

HowtoPressanEnclosedSeam

1Pressseamflattosetstitches.Grade,trim,andnotchorclipseamallowances(pages32and33).Pressopenonpointpresser.Usecontouredpressingboardforcurvedseams.

2Turnrightsideout.Rollfinishededgetoundersideorinside;bastenearedgewithsilkthread.Press,usingclapperasabove.Drythoroughly;removebasting,iron.

HowtoPressaPlainStraightSeam

1Pressseamflattoblendstitchesintothefabric,eliminatepuckers,andsmooththestitchingline.

2Placeseamoverseamroll;keepitperfectlystraight.Openandgentlycreaseseam,usingfingersorbluntendofpointturner.Penetrateseamwithsteam;glidepointofironalongseamlinegroove.

3Useclappertoforcesteamintothefabric,especiallyinhard-to-pressfabrics.

4Pressonrightsidewithironguardorpressclothtoprotectfabricfromdirectironcontact.Presswithgrain,usingentiresoleofironinup-and-down,notsliding,motion.

HowtoPressaCurvedSeam

1Notchoutsidecurvestoremoveexcessfabric(page33).Makenotchesorclipscloseanddeepenoughsoseamallowanceslieflatandsmooth.Clipinsidecurvessotheylieflat.Pressflat.

2Positionseamonsimilarlyshapedcontouroftailor’shamorcontouredpressingboard;press.Pressseamfromrightsideasinstep4,above.

PRESSING&SHAPINGDARTS

Dartscreatecontoursandcurvesinaflatpieceoffabric.Properpressingusingatailor’shamorcontouredpressingboardmaintainsthestitched-inshape.Unlesspatterndirectionsindicateotherwise,pressverticaldartstowardthecenterfrontorcenterback;presshorizontaldartsdownward.

HowtoPressaDart

1Pressdartalongstitchesfromwideendtowithin3/8″(1cm)ofpoint.Donotpressbeyondpoint.Useclapper,ifnecessary,topressasharp,flatcreaseatedgeofdart.

2Placedartsmoothlyovertailor’sham,withedgeofdartfacingasitwillbeinfinishedgarment.Tuckpaperstripunderedgeofdarttoavoidoverpressing.Pressacrossdartfromwideendto3/8″(1cm)frompoint.

3Repositiondartpointoversmallendofham,andpressgentlytoshrinkandeasepointintogarment.

4Pressfromrightside,usingironguardorpresscloth;pressfromwideendtopoint.Repositiontopressdartpoint.Allowtodrythoroughlytosetshape.

ThreeAlternativeWaystoPressDarts

Widedart.Trimdartto1/2″(1.3cm);donottrimpoint.Pressalongstitching;donotcreasepoint.Pressopen;presspointtoonesideorintoboxpleat.Foreasierpressing,insertknittingneedle.Pressfromrightsideasinstep4,opposite.

Double-pointeddart.Cliponceortwiceatwidestpartofdarttowithin1/8″(3mm)ofstitching.Followsteps1to4,opposite,pressinghalfthedartatatimefromcentertopoint.

Dartinlightweightfabric.Pressalongstitching;donotcreaseedge.Placeonham,withpaperstripsunderedges;pressdartflat.Stop1/2″(1.3cm)frompoint.Repositiononhamtoshapepoint.Pressfromrightsidesasinstep4,opposite.

TipsforCorrectingPressingErrors

Removebastingthreadmarksbyusingseveralthicknessesofdamppressclothonfabric.Holdironoverpresscloth,supportingweightofironwithhand.

Removeshinefromfabricbyspongingwithasolutionof1to2teaspoonsofwhitevinegarto1cupofwater.(Testfirstonfabricscrapforcolorfastness.)Coverareawithapresscloth;presslightly.

Removeedgeimprintsonrightsideoffabricbyplacingironpointunderseamorhemedge;steampressgently.Placepaperstripunderedge;press.

Removeneedleholesfromripped-outstitchesbysteamingheavily,thenbrushingwithasoftclothesbrushortoothbrush.

Raiseflattenednapbysteaming,thenbrushingthesurfacewithasoftclothesbrush.

TOOLS&STITCHESFORHANDWORKCustom-tailoredgarmentsrequiremorehandworkthanmostothergarments.Usetheappropriatetools,andmasterthespecialhandstitchestoholdfabriclayersinplaceortobuildinshaping.Specialhandstitchesholdinterfacingandfabriclayerstogetherandsecureedgesofstaytape,hems,andfacings.Fastenasinglestrandofthreadwithtwoorthreesmallstitches.Stitchesmustbetightenoughtopreventthestitchesfrompulling,puckering,andbreakingfromwearingstrain.

ToolsforHandworkNeedlesforcustomtailoringareshortandfinetomakeshort,invisiblestitches.Buyapackageofbetweens(tailor’sneedles)inassortedsizes5to10(45to70).Thimbleprotectsthefingerthatpushestheneedlewhilehandstitching.Itshouldhaveacomfortablysnugfit.Tweezersarehandyforremovingtailor’stacksandbastingthreads.Silkthreadisveryfineandsmoothanddoesnotleavestitchimpressionsfrompressing.Useforbastingareasbeforepressingandforallpermanenthandstitching.Ifsilkthreadisunavailable,useahigh-quality,long-staplepolyesterthread.Usesilkthreadforhandsewingonly,becauseitwillrequirecontinuousadjustmentsonthetopandbobbintensionformachinesewing.Beeswaxcoatsandstrengthenshand-sewingthreadandreducestanglingandknotting.Stitchesstayinplacebetterwhenthethreadiswaxed.Drawthreadacrossthecakeofbeeswax;pressthewaxedthreadwithahotirontomeltthewaxintothethreadandtoremoveexcesswax.Pressingsoftensthethread,makingiteasiertohandle.Useunwaxedthreadfortemporarybasting.

HandStitchesforTailoringPadstitchingincustom-tailoredgarmentsholdstheinterfacinginplace,anditaddsbodyandshaping.Tobuildinshape,makesmall,permanent,invisiblestitcheswhileholdingfabricinwearingposition.Featherstitchingdecorativelysecuresbackpleatsinlinings.Substitutemachinestitchingifdesired.Slipstitchinginvisiblyjoinsthefoldededgeofthelininghemorfinishededges

ofpocketsandweltstothegarment.Tailorbastingholdslargeareasofinterfacinginplaceandcontrolsfabriclayers.Large,diagonalstitchesmaybetemporaryorpermanent.Fellstitchingholdsstaytapesecurelyinplacetostabilizeedges.Straightmachinestitchingmaybesubstitutedtosavetime.Bartackingreinforcespointsofstrain,suchaspocketcorners.Veryshort,narrowmachinezigzaggingmaybesubstitutedforbartacking.

HowtoPadstitch

1Markpadstitchinglinesonhaircanvasinterfacing,usingasoftleadpencilandsee-throughruler.Donotextendstitchinglinesintoseamallowances.

2Placeinterfacingonwrongsideofgarmentpiece;baste.Stitchinplacetwoorthreetimestosecurewaxedthreadtointerfacingatendofstitchinglineclosesttocollarorlapelrollline.

3Rollfabriclayersoverindexfinger,andtakeashortstitchperpendiculartothestitchinglinethroughtheinterfacing,catchingonlyathreadofthegarment.Interfacingmayshiftslightly.

4Stitch1/4″to1/2″(6mmto1.3cm)fromfirststitch,andcontinuetoendofrow;donotpullstitchestight.Moveneedletonextstitchinglineandcontinue,creatingrowsofchevronstitches.

Catchstitchinginvisiblysecuresinterfacingedgestothegarment.Tailor’shemstitchinginvisiblyweavesthehemallowancetothegarment.Foramoresecurestitchinheavyfabrics,usecatchstitching.Unevenbastingisforgeneralbastingandformarkingconstructionandplacementlines.Permanentunevenbastingholdsinterfacinginhemlinefolds.Speedtailor’stacksareusedformarkingfabrics.Ifdesired,usedifferentthreadcolorsfordifferentsymbols.Usedarningcottonorsix-strandembroideryfloss.Multiplestrandsofembroideryflossgrabintothefabric,donotpullouteasily,andrequireasinglestitch.Usecontinuousspeedtailor’stacksonlapelrolllines,foldlines,andpocketplacementlines.

TIPSFORPADSTITCHING

Shortstitchesincloselyspacedrowscreateacrisp,sharplytailoredgarment.Longer,morewidelyspacedstitchescreateasofterlook.Stitchlengthshouldbethesameasdistancebetweenstitchingrows.Forexample,ifpadstitchesare1/4″(6mm)long,distancebetweentherowsofstitchesshouldbe1/4″(6mm).Short,fineneedleshouldbeusedwithsinglestrandofwaxedsilkthreadthatcloselymatchesgarmentfabric.Padstitchingrowsrunparalleltorolllineinfallofundercollar.Padstitchinginstandmayrunperpendicularifacrisperrolllineisdesired.Padstitchinginlapelsrunsparalleltorollline.Fabricisrolledasyoustitch;thetighteryourollthefabric,themorerollthatiscreatedinthelayers.Rolltighterclosetotherollline,lesstowardtheouteredgeuntilyoureachthecollarorlapelpoint.Increasethecurveslightlyinthepoints,sofinishedcollarandlapelswillrollslightlytowardthegarment.

HandStitchesforTailoring

Featherstitching.Takeeachstitchdiagonallyacrossmarkedguideline,holdingthreadunderneedlepoint.Tugslightlyonstitchtomakeittautbutlooseenoughthatthreadcurvesslightly.Alternatedirectionofstitchfromonesideofguidelinetotheother.

Bartacking.Taketwoorthreelongstitchesinthesameplace.Workinglefttoright,coverwithcloselyspacedblanketstitches;insertneedleunderbartackandoverthreadloop.Pulllooptight.

Slipstitching.Securesinglestrandofwaxedthreadthroughfoldededge.Taketinystitchingarment,catchingonlyathreadortwo.Slipneedleintofoldagainfor1/4″(6mm),thenouttotakenextstitchingarment.

Catchstitching.Worklefttoright,takingstitcheswithneedlepointingleft.Catchathreadortwoofgarmentaboveinterfacingedge.Takenextstitchininterfacingedge1/4″to3/8″(6mmto1cm)totheright.Spaceevenly;donotpulltight.

Tailorbasting.Takehorizontalstitchesfromrighttoleftandparalleltooneanothertomakelong,diagonalfloatsbetween.Forpermanenttailorbasting,catchonlyathreadofgarmentfabricineachhorizontalstitch.

Tailor’shemstitching.Foldhemallowanceback.Takesmallhorizontalstitchingarment,catchingonlyathreadortwo.Takenextstitch1/4”(6mm)totheleftinhemallowance.Spaceevenly.

Fellstitching.Workrighttoleft;takeshort,closelyspacedstitchesperpendicularto,andjustthroughedgeof,staytapeandinterfacing.Catchathreadortwoofgarmentfabric.

Unevenbasting.Takeshortstitches1/2″to1″(1.3to2.5cm)apartfortemporarywork.Forpermanentstitchinginhemlines,catchonlyathreadortwoofthegarmentfabric,spacingstitches3/8”to1/2″(1to1.3cm)apart.

HowtoMakeSpeedTailor’sTacks

1Uselonglengthofsix-strandembroideryflossordarningcotton.Takestitchthroughconstructionmark,leaving1″(2.5cm)tailatbeginningandend.

2Liftpatternfromfabriccarefully.Separatefabriclayersnomorethan1/2″(1.3cm).Clipthreadsbetween,leavingthreadtuftsoneachlayeroffabric.

HowtoMakeContinuousSpeedTailor’sTacks

1Takefirststitch,leaving1″(2.5cm)tail.Continuetakingsmallstitchesevery2″(5cm),leavingslackbetweenstitches.

2Snipslackthread.Liftpatternfromfabric.Separatefabriclayersnomorethan1/2″(1.3cm).Clipthreadsbetweenstitches,leavingtuftsoneachlayeroffabric.

BEFOREYOUSEW

Carefulfittingandpatternalterationarevitaltoasuccessfuloutcome.Thoughyoumaybeeagertocutoutyourgarmentpiecesandstartstitching,takethetimetopersonalizethefitofyourpattern;evenmakeatestgarmenttoensurethatyourjacketorcoatwillfityouthewayitshould.Inthissectionyouwillalsofindinstructionsforpreparingthefabric,lining,andinterfacings.Extrastepstakennowwillpreventproblemsthatcouldbetoodifficulttofixlaterintheprocess.

GETTINGAGOODFIT

Selectingthecorrectpatternsizeisimportantintailoring.Fitismostcriticalthroughtheshouldersandneckline.Topreventextensivepatternchangesintheseareas,choosethepatternsizeaccordingtobustorhighbustmeasurement.Checkthepatterncatalogforhowtomeasureanddeterminethecorrectpatternsize.

Pin-fittingthepatternbeforecuttingthefabricgivesyouanideaofhowthefinishedgarmentwillfitandsuggestspatternadjustmentstomake.Makingatestgarment(pages50to53)afterpin-fittingisrecommendedforaccuratefitanddesigncorrections.Majoradjustmentstoaccommodateafullbust,swayback,andfullupperarmsshouldbemadeonthetestgarment.Theycannotbemadeafterthegarmentiscutfromthegarmentfabric.Ifyoudecidenottomakeatestgarment,cutwiderseamallowancesinthegarmentbodytoallowforconstructionfitting.Beforepin-fittingandmakingthetestgarment,evaluatetheeaseinyour

pattern.Jacketsandcoatsrequirewearingeasetofitcomfortablyoverothergarments.Refertothewearingeasechart,below.Unlinedjacketsandclose-fittingstylesmayrequirelessease;coatstobewornoverheavysweatersrequire

fittingstylesmayrequirelessease;coatstobewornoverheavysweatersrequiremaximumease.Theremayalsobeextradesigneaseinthepatterntocreateacurrentfashionlook.Ifyouwantyourgarmenttolookthewayitdoesonthepatternenvelope,maintainthisdesignease.Measurethepattern,andcomparethemeasurementswithyourbody

measurements.Maketheadjustmentsnecessaryfortherightlengthandthecorrectsizetofitaroundbustline,waistline,hipline,andupperarm.Includeenoughwearingeaseanddesigneasetoachievethedesiredfitandfashionlook.

GuidelinesforJacketandCoatWearingEaseFITTINGAREA AMOUNTOFEASE

Bustline 31/2″to6″(9to15cm)

Hipline 31/2″to6″(9to15cm)

Upperarm 3″to51/2″(7.5to14cm)

Upperback 11/2″to3″(3.8to7.5cm)

HowtoPin-fitaPattern

1Pinhemsanddartsortucksinplace.Pinmainpatternpieces,wrongsidestogether;placepinsonseamlines,withpointstowardhem.Markfrontandbackwaistline.Lapandpinsleeveseamlines,butdonotpinsleevetopatternbody.

2Tryonpatternwithshoulderpadsinplace;wearclothingthatwillbewornwithcompletedgarment.Pinpatterntoshoulderatnecklineofblouseordress.Checkfitinfrontoffull-lengthmirror.

3Checkfitinbustline,waistline,hipline,andareaacrossupperback.Adjustpinsinsideseamsandcenterbackforacomfortablefit.Dartsshouldstop1/2″to1″(1.3to2.5cm)frombustpointifvertical,slightlyfartherawayifhorizontal.Adjustgarmentlength.

4Checklapelforsmoothfit.Iflapelgapesorbreaksatrolllinemorethan1/2″(1.3cm),makeanadjustmentforgapinglapel(page53).Forgapeslessthan1/2″(1.3cm),tapetherollline(pages70and72).

5Checktomakesuresideseamshangstraightandperpendiculartothefloor,andbackventhangsstraightwithoutspreadingopen.Ifnot,makeanadjustmentforswayback(page53).

6Sliparmintosleeve;pinchoutfullnessacrossupperarm.Pinchshouldbeatleast1-1/2″(3.8cm)deepforeaseinjacketsleeveoratleast2″(5cm)forcoatsleeve.Checkthesleevelength.

MakingaTestGarment

Makingatestgarment,oftencalledamuslin,ishighlyrecommended.Themorefittedthestyle,themoreimportantitistotestthefitfirst.Makingatestgarmentallowsyoutocheckpatternadjustments,perfectthefitbeforecuttingthegarmentfabric,andtestdesiredstylechanges.Ifthelapelandundercollarrolllinesarenotmarkedonthepatterntissue,youcanestablishandmarkthemonthetestgarmentandthentransferthemtothepattern.Thetestgarmentcanbemadefromanyinexpensive,firmlywovenfabricina

weightsimilartothegarmentfabric.Thisgivesanaccuratereadingofhowthegarmentwillfitandhang.Makingatestgarmenttakesafewextrahours,butcuttingandconstructingitcarefullyandaccuratelyisworththeefforteventhoughthetestgarmentwillneverbeworn.Afterpin-fittingthepatternandmakingnecessaryadjustments,cutthejacket

front,back,sleeves,andundercollarfromthetestfabric.Allow1″(2.5cm)seamallowancesontheshouldersandalllengthwiseseams.Markplacementlines,includingrolllines,andconstructionsymbolsontherightsideofthefabric.Alsomarkthecenterfront,waistline,hemline,sleevecapcrosswisegrain,andlengthwisegrainontherightside.Stitchthetestgarment,andtryitonoverothergarmentssimilartotheonesto

bewornwiththefinishedjacketorcoat.Refertothefittingguidelines,opposite.Workfromshouldertohemline.Makeadjustmentsaffectingwidthandlengthbeforecorrectingotherareas.Eliminateanywrinklespointingtoproblemareas,makingsuregrainlineshangstraight.Minorfittingadjustmentsrequiresimpleseamlinechanges.Majorchangesrequiretuckingtoeliminateexcessfabricorslashingtoaddfabricforfullbodycurves.Thesechangesmustbeperfectedinthetestgarment.Whenfittingthetestgarment,makeitslightlylargerthanthefitofthefinal

garment.Thisallowsforthethicknessofthegarmentfabricandtheextraroomtakenupbytheliningandinterfacinglayers.Markallchangesonthepatternbeforecuttingthegarmentfabric.Makecorrespondingchangesonfacing,interfacing,andliningpieces.

HowtoMakeaTestGarment

1Staystitchneckseamline.Machine-bastetestgarment,andpressseamsopen.Turn,press,andpinhem.Stitchundercollartoneckline;turnandpressundercollarandlapelseamallowances.Completesleeves;setintoarmholes,usingmachinebasting.

2Tryontestgarmentwithshoulderpadsinplace;pinatbuttonholelocationswithcenterfrontsmatching.Releaseseams2″(5cm)abovewaistline,ifnecessary,toletoutwaistandhip.Checkdartsandgarmentlength.Correctadditionalfittingproblems.

3Adjustsleevelengthoverbentarm.Finishededgeshouldextend1/2″to1″(1.3to2.5cm)overwristbone.Thickfabricsneedmaximumamount;sleevesshortenaswearingcreasesdevelop.

4Determinerolllinesifpatternisnotmarked.Pinfoldononelapelandonundercollartocenterback.

5Pressrolllinetocreateacrease.Removestitchingfromgarmentfrontandundercollar.Placegarmentpiecesonpatternpieces,matchingmarkings.Transferrolllinestopatternpieces.

6Cutweltorpatchpockettemplatefromstiffpaper;donotincludeseamallowances.Checkpocketsize,shape,andposition;adjustasdesired.Marknewposition.

GUIDELINESFORFITTINGJACKETSANDCOATS

Verticalseamshangstraightandperpendiculartothefloor.Frontshangstraightatthehemlinewithoutspreadingopen.Bustlinedartspointto,andstopshortof,fullestpartofthebust.Shoulderseamsliestraightontopofshoulders;don’tpulltowardfrontorback.Set-insleevesaresmoothandpucker-freewithsoftlyroundedcaps.Therearenodiagonalwrinklesinsleevecap,andsleevedoesnotpullacrossupperarm.Sleevescoverwristboneby1/2to1″(1.3to2.5cm).Collarhugsbacknecklinewithoutgapingorwrinklingacrosstheback.Lapelshugthebustlinewithoutgapingwhengarmentisbuttoned.Backventhangsstraightandperpendiculartofloorwithoutspreadingopenacrossseat.Hemisstraightandparalleltoflooratafashionableandflatteringlength.Garmentfitsaroundbodysmoothlywithoutpullsorwrinkles.Reachingdoesnotcausestrainacrossupperback.Garmentiscomfortableoverclothingintendedtobewornwithit.

AdjustmentforForwardShoulderThrust

Poorfitmakesshoulderseampulltowardbackattopofarm.Therearewrinklesacrossbackneck,curvingtoshoulderseam.Sleevesbinduncomfortably.

1Releasebackshoulderseamallowance;takeinfrontshoulderseamallowanceatarmhole,taperingtoneckline.Moveshoulderdottomatchadjustment,asinstep2,below.

2Measurethechangeintestgarment,andtransfertopattern,extendingbackshoulderandshorteningfrontshoulder.Blendnewcuttinglinesintooriginallines.

AdjustmentforSleeveWrinkles

Poorfitcreatesdiagonalwrinklesineitherfrontorbackofsleevebecauseofshapeandcurveofupperarmandback.

1Releasebastingabovenotches,androtatesleeveinarmholetowardfrontorbacktoeliminatewrinkles.Redistributeease.Markthenewshoulderdotpositiononsleeve.

2Transfernewshoulderdotpositiontosleevepatternpiece.Makesamechangeontheliningpatternpiece.

AdjustmentforGapingLapel

Poorfitmakesthelapelgapeorbreak,eventhoughbustlinefitscorrectlyandhemlineisparalleltothefloor.

1Shortenthelapel.Makeatuckingarmentfront,acrosslapel,taperingtoarmhole.

2Makesamechangeinjacketfront,facing,lining,andinterfacingpatternpieces.Straightenthelapelrollline.

AdjustmentforSwayback

Poorfitcausessideseamstoswingforwardandbackventtospreadopen.

1Takeatuckinjacketatcenterbackaboveventsotheventandsideseamshangstraightandperpendiculartofloor.Tapertucktosideseams.

2Makethesametuckinthejacketbackandliningpatternpieces.Straightengrainline.

PREPARINGTHEPATTERNInadditiontofittingadjustments,patternsfortailoredgarmentsoftenrequirestylechangesandalterationsinthepatternpiecesbeforecutting.Youmaypreferpockets,flaps,andbackventsfeaturedinotherpatterns.Weltpocketscanbesubstitutedforpatchpockets.Itisalsopossibletoaddaliningorpartialliningtoanunlinedjacketpattern.Afterpin-fittingthepatternormakingthetestgarment,adjustpatternpiecesifnecessary.Makecorrespondingchangesonallpatternpiecesaffectedbythechanges,includingfacings,interfacings,andliningspieces.

FourPatternAdjustmentsforProfessionalResults

Cut1″(2.5cm)seamallowancesatshoulder,side,andcenterback.Whenatestgarmentisnotmade,widerseamallowancesareessentialforfittingduringconstruction.Widerseamallowancesinunlinedjacketsareeasiertohandleforseamfinishes.

Addacenterbackseamallowancetoone-piecejacketorcoatpatterns.Thisprovidesanadditionalfittingseamandcreatestheillusionofaslimmertorso.

Changeaone-pieceundercollartoatwo-pieceundercollarbyaddinga5/8″(1.5cm)centerbackseam(arrow);cutonbias.Bothcollarpointsmustbecutonsamebiasgrainforuniformshape,shading,anddesign.Cutundercollarinterfacingthesameway.

Addaventtoatwo-piecesleeve.Drawnewcuttinglineonupperandundersleeve2″(5cm)fromandparalleltobacksleeveseamline.Extendfoldlineforhem;drawnewcuttinglinefortopofvent41/2″(11.5cm)fromhem.Markdotonseamline5/8″(1.5cm)fromtopofventforendofstitching.

PatternAdjustmentsforInterfacingNotallpatternsincludepiecesfortheinterfacingshapesthattailorsusetoprovidebettershapingandsupportatthearmhole,neckline,front,andback.Whenpatternpiecesareprovided,theymaynotcoveralargeenoughareaandnecessaryseamallowancesmaybeeliminated.Usethepatternpiecesforfront,side,andbacktomakeinterfacingpatternsfromtissuepaper,tracingpaper,orlightweightnonwoveninterfacing.Whenusingsew-ininterfacingsuchashaircanvas,partiallyinterfacethefront

ofajacketorcoattogivethedesiredshapingwithoutunnecessarystiffness.Whenusingfusibleinterfacing,partiallyorcompletelyinterfacethefrontofa

jacketorcoat,dependingonfabricdrapeandgarmentstyle.Fusibleinterfacingsthatarefusedtotheentirejacketfrontgiveaddedbodytolightweightfabrics,butmaybetoofirmforsofterjacketstyles.Selectfusibleinterfacingsaccordingtotheguidelinesonpages20to22.Addafrontshoulderreinforcementtoensureasmoothlinefromshoulderto

bustlineandtopreventtheareafromcollapsing.Cutreinforcementonthetruebiasfromhaircanvas,firmlywoveninterfacingormuslin,orfusibleweft-insertioninterfacing.Usealoftierfabric,suchaslambswool,tofillindistincthollowsbetweentheshoulderlineanduppercurveofthebustlineonsmall-bustedfigures.Addabackstayoffirmlywoveninterfacingtostabilizethegarmentand

Addabackstayoffirmlywoveninterfacingtostabilizethegarmentandpreventstretchacrosstheshouldersandarmholes;donotusefusibleinterfacing.Abackstayalsosupportsthegarmentshapewhileonahanger.Raglansleevesrequireastayintheneckandshoulderareatoprovidea

foundationforshoulderpadsandtopreventshoulderpadsfromshowingthroughlight-coloredfabrics.Theraglansleevestaybridgesthegapbetweenthebackstayandfrontinterfacing;itkeepsthenecklineshape,drape,andappearanceuniformfromfronttoback.Forstabilityandlongerwear,interfacehemsinsleevesandtheloweredgeof

thegarment.Usehaircanvasorfusibleinterfacing,andextendtheinterfacingpastthehemlinefoldtocushiontheedge(page101).

TwoWaystoCutInterfacingforaJacketFront

Sew-ininterfacing.Drawnewinterfacingshapeonjacketfront1″(2.5cm)widerthanfacingpatternpiece.Curvecuttinglineabovebustlineforfullbust,or1″(2.5cm)belowitforsmallbust.Extendtosideseam3″(7.5cm)belowunderarm.(Forstyleswithsidepanel,cutinterfacingastwopieces.)

Fusibleinterfacing.Cutentirefrontfromfusibleinterfacing;cutoutdartsonstitchinglinesbeforefusing.Orcutoutfusibleinterfacingasforsew-ininterfacing,left,withinneredgealongdartstitchingline;pinkinneredge.

HowtoCutInterfacingforaBackStay

1Drawlineonjacketbackpatternpiecethatcurvesfromapoint8″to10″(20.5to25.5cm)belownecklinetoapoint3″(7.5cm)belowunderarm.

2Traceshapeontomuslinorfirmlywoveninterfacing.Cutonstraightgrain.

TwoWaystoCutInterfacingforaShoulderReinforcement

Standardjacket.Drawshapeonfrontpattern1/8″(3mm)insideshoulderandarmholeseamlines,stoppingtwo-thirdsofthewaydownthearmhole.Drawlineacrossto1/2″(1.3cm)fromrollline,thenparalleltorollline.Cutinterfacingonbiasgrain.

Close-fittingjacket.Drawshapeonfrontpattern1/8″(3mm)insideshoulderandarmholeseamlines.Extendshoulderreinforcementintounderarmformoresupport.Cut1/2″(1.3cm)shorterthanfrontinterfacingatunderarm.Curvecuttinglineabovebustline,thenparalleltorollline.Cutinterfacingonbiasgrain.

HowtoCutandAttachaRaglanSleeveStay

1Drawaline8”to10”(20.5to25.5cm)belownecklineonraglansleevepatternpieces.Markbiasgrainline.

2Cutstayfrommuslinorfirmlywoveninterfacing;pinkloweredge.Beforeconstructingsleeves,bastetowrongsideofraglansleevesatseamlineedges.

PreparingtheLiningPattern

Linedjacketsareeasiertoslideonandoffthanunlinedones,andtheyhaveafinishedlookontheinside.Liningsalsohidetheinteriorconstruction,suchasinterfacingsandshoulderpads.Ifyoulikethestylingofanunlinedjacketpatternbutprefertosewalined

jacket,itiseasytomakeyourownliningpattern.Extraeasemaybeaddedtotheliningpiecestoreducestrainontheliningseams.Forloose-fittingjackets,anotherchoiceistomakeapartiallining,which

coversshoulderpadsandinterfacings.Apartiallylinedjacketiscoolertowearthanafullylinedone.Inpartiallinings,thefrontfacingextendstothearmholetocoverthefrontinterfacingandmeetstheshapedbacklining.Thejacketbackpatternisusedtomakethepatternforthelining,andthebackneckfacingiseliminated.Abackpleatorbackstayisnotnecessary.Thecurvededgeofthebackliningallowsfreedomofmovement.Evenwhenajacketpatternincludesliningpieces,tailoringprofessionals

recommendafewpatternchanges.Addextraroomtothesleeveliningpatternintheunderarmarea,sotheliningwillcovergarmentseamallowanceswithoutbindingorpulling.Adjusttheliningpatterntomatchfittingadjustmentsinthegarment.Ifyoudo

notplantomakeatestgarment,cuttheliningseamallowancesfortheshouldersandlengthwiseseams1″(2.5cm)widetoallowforfittingchanges.Cutthesleeveandgarmentliningthesamelengthasthegarmentpatternpieces,trimminganyexcesswhencompletingthehems.Abackpleatextendsthewearofthelining,keepingsleevesfromtearing

understress.Althoughsomeliningpatternsdonotincludeabackpleat,itisasimplepatternchangetomake.

HowtoPrepareaLiningPattern

1Coverjacketfrontpatternwithtracingpaperortissue;placefrontfacingpatternontop,matchingmarkings.Ontracingpaper,drawoutlineoffacing.Drawcuttinglinesforlining;innercurvecuttingline(arrow)shouldbe11/4″(3.2cm)fromfacinglinetoallowfor5/8″(1.5cm)seamallowance.Markgrainline.

2Add1/2″(1.3cm)tofrontandbacksideseamallowancesatunderarmareaoflining,taperingtowaistline.(Ifjackethassidepanels,add1/4″[6mm]toeachseamallowanceofsidepanels,front,andback.)Thisextraamountwillbeeasedinwhenliningsleeveisattached.

3A.Jacketwithoutbackvent.Add1″to11/2″(2.5to3.8cm)forbackpleatatcenterbackseam.Marknewseamlineandpleatfoldline.B.Jacketwithbackvent.Add1”to1-1/2”(2.5to3.8cm)forbackpleat,taperingtotopofvent.Marknewseamlineandpleatfoldline.

4Cutsleevelining,usinggarmentpatternpiece.Add5/8″(1.5cm)atunderarmofsleeve,taperingtonotches.Cutliningthesamelengthasjacketsleevepattern.

HowtoCutaPartialLiningforanUnlinedJacketPattern

1Placefacingpatternonshapedfrontinterfacing(page56),matchingnotches.Ontracingpaper,tracearoundouteredgesofpattern.Drawnewcuttinglineforinnercurve1″(2.5cm)beyondinterfacingedge.Markgrainline.Useaspatterntocutpartialliningfromgarmentfabric.

2Placetracingpaperonbackpatternpiece.Drawbackliningshapeontracingpaper,curvingfrom10″to12″(25.5to30.5cm)belowcenterbacknecklinetomatchwidthoffrontfacingatunderarm.Add1/4″(6mm)tosideseamforease.Marknewgrainline.Cutfromliningfabric.Cutsleeveliningasinstep4,below.

PREPARINGTHEFABRICExamine,straighten,andpreshrinktailoringfabricsbeforecutting.First,carefullyexaminethegarmentandliningfabricsforminorflawsandcolorvariations.Markflaws,suchasyarnslubsorlooseyarnends,withbasting.Avoidtheflawsduringpatternlayout,orplacethepatternsotheflawisinaninconspicuouslocation,suchasahemorseamallowance.

Straightenthecrosswiseendsofthefabricbytearing,pullingathread,orcuttingalongawovendesignlineinthefabric.Thencheckthegrainlinebyplacingthestraightenedfabriconatablewithselvagesmatchingalongoneedgeofthetable.Ifthegrainisstraight,thefoldissmoothandflat;thestraightenededgesalsolineupperfectly,withthecrosswisegrainperpendiculartothetableedge.Ifthegrainisnotstraight,stretchthefabriconthetruebias.Ifstretchingdoesnotcorrecttheproblem,choosesadifferentfabricthatcanbestraightened.Garmentsthatarecutoff-grainwillnothangcorrectly,andseamsmaytwistoutofline,affectingthefitandappearancePreshrinkgarmentfabricsandliningsafterstraightening.Refertothecare

instructionsforthefabrictodeterminethecorrectpreshrinkingmethod.Althoughsomefabricsarelabeled“needle-ready,”itisagoodideatopreshrinkthemanyway.Ingeneral,preshrinkinglooselywovenfabricsandthosemadeofnaturalfibersisespeciallycriticalbecausetheyaremorelikelytoshrinkwhenyoupressthemthantightlywovenfabricsandthosemadeofsyntheticsorsyntheticblends.Ifyouplantousefusibleinterfacings,preshrinkingthegarmentfabricis

particularlyimportant.Becausefusingrequiresmoresteampressingthannormal,thegarmentfabricislikelytoshrinkduringfusing.Haveadrycleanerthoroughlysteampressgarmentfabricsmarked“dryclean

only.”Itisnotnecessarytodryclean,too,unlessthereisnoticeablesoil.Besuretoaskthedrycleanertoavoidpressingacrease.Ifyouhavealargecuttingsurfaceandanironwithasurgeofsteam,youmaydothesteampressingyourself,beingcarefulnottomissanyareas.Steampresswiththegrain,neveronthebias.Allowsteamedfabrictodrythoroughlybeforeworkingwithit.Ifyardageislongerthanthepressingsurface,presssection-by-sectionandallowtodrybeforemoving.

HowtoPreshrinkStayorEdgeTape

Immersecottonorlinenstayoredgetapeinhotwater.Rollintoweltoremoveexcessmoisture,andallowtoairdrycompletely.Presswhendryifneeded.Pressingwhiledampcausesstretchinganddistortion.

HowtoPreshrinkHairCanvas

Misthaircanvaswithspraybottle,andpressdry.Orrollinadamptoweljustremovedfromthewasher.Allowhaircanvastoabsorbmoisturefromthetowelforseveralhoursorovernight;thenpressdry.

HowtoPreshrinkFusibleInterfacing(immersionmethod)

1Fillsinkorbathtubwithhotwater.Gentlyfoldfusibleinterfacingintowater.Soakuntilwateriscool.Drainwater,andallowinterfacingtositfor5minutes.

2Removeinterfacingcarefully;rollintoweltoremoveexcessmoisture.Drapeovertowelbarorshowerrod,andallowtodry.

HowtoPreshrinkandApplyFusibleInterfacing(steam-shrinkmethod)

1Placeinterfacing,resinsidedown,ongarmentfabric.Holdsteamironjustaboveinterfacing,andsteamgentlyforafewseconds.Interfacingedgesdrawupslightlyasyousteam,butslightdifferenceinsizedoesnotaffectfinishedproduct.

2Useironsoleplateguardorpresscloth;fuse,followingmanufacturer’sdirections.Onlargepieces,workfromcentertowardedges.

Preshrinkwashablefabricsusedforstaysandwovensew-ininterfacingsinthesamewaythatyouwillcareforthefinishedgarment.Also,preshrinkfusibleinterfacings.Althoughsomeboltsaremarked“preshrunk,”itiswisetopreshrinkfusibleinterfacingsoftheknit,woven,orweft-insertiontypesinhotwater,above.Orsteamshrinkknitornonwovenfusibleinterfacings,opposite.Donotpreshrinkfusiblesinthewasheranddryerbecausetheadhesiveresinmaydissolveinthewasherorfuseinthedryer.

TAILORINGTECHNIQUES

Theflawlessfitandsculpturaleleganceofawell-tailoredjacketorcoataretheresultofcareful,methodicalconstruction.Capturedforyouinthenextpagesarethetechniquesthathavebeenperfectedbygenerationsofprofessionaltailors,includingmethodsforcustom,machine,andfusiblealternatives.Themethodsforshapingeachpartofthegarmentaretaughtintheorderinwhichthegarmentisconstructed.Thetimeandpatienceyoudevotetolearningthesemethodswillpayoffinbeautiful,professional-qualitygarments.

CONSTRUCTINGTHEJACKET

Oncethepatternandfabricareprepared,carefullycutandmarkthejacket,andyouarereadytosew.Standard5/8″(1.5cm)seamallowanceshavebeenusedinthepagesthatfollow;however,whencuttingthefabric,youmaywanttoadd1″(2.5cm)seamallowancestotheshoulderandverticalseams.Thisgivesextraroomforfittingadjustments,and1″(2.5cm)seamsareeasiertopressthan5/8″(1.5cm)seams.Forpartiallylinedjackets,1″(2.5cm)seamallowancesarealsoeasiertofinish.Choosethedesiredmethodoftailoring(pages12and13),andcuttheinterfacingpieces(page55to57).Markthegarmentpiecesatallconstructionnotches,dots,andplacementlines,includingrolllines.Tailor’stacks(pages44and45)arethemarkingmethodpreferredbymosttailors.Instructionsfortailoringatraditionalnotched-collarjacketareincluded

becausethisstylehasthegreatestamountoftailoringdetail.Thevariationsfortailoringashawl-collarjacketareonpages84and85.Forotherstyles,suchascollarlessjackets,ignoretheinstructionsthatdonotapply.Shapingthebodyof

thejacketwillbethesameexceptinthecollarandlapelareas.Thepatternguidesheetwillgiveinstructionsforjacketswithspecialdesigndetails.Thesequencefortailoringajacketorcoatisgiveninthechartbelow.Evenif

youhavenevertriedtailoringbefore,someofthestepswillbefamiliartoyoufromyourprevioussewingexperiences.

SEQUENCEFORTAILORINGAJACKET

Shapetheundercollar. Attachraglansleeves,ifincluded.

Applyfusibleinterfacing,ifused,shapingandconstructingjacketfront.

Tailornotchedshawlcollar,ifincluded.

Stitchsideseamsorsidepanelseams.

Attachpockets,ifincluded. Attachset-insleeves,ifincluded.

Sewboundbuttonholes,ifincluded. Insertshoulderpads.

Applyhaircanvasinterfacing,ifused,shapingandconstructingjacketfront.

Tailorhemsandvents.

Attachbackstay. Insertliningorpartiallining.

Shapeshoulderseams.Forafitting,sideseamsorsidepanelseamsmaybebastedorpermanentlystitchedatthistime.

Sewmachinebuttonholes,ifincluded.

Sewonbuttonsorcoveredsnaps.

ShapingtheUndercollar

Theundercollarisinterfacedtoaddbodyandshape.Theinterfacedundercollarsupportstheweightoftheuppercollar.Therollline(1)isthedividinglinebetweenthetwoareasoftheundercollar,

thestand(2)andthefall(3).Thestandisshapedsoithugsthebackoftheneckandholdsthecollartothecorrectheightinback.Thefallisshapedtocurve

andholdsthecollartothecorrectheightinback.Thefallisshapedtocurvegently,withthecollarpoints(4)rollingslightlytowardthegarment.Theplacewherethecollarandlapelmeetiscommonlycalledthecollarnotch(5)andshouldnotbeconfusedwiththeconstructionnotchesonthepatterntissue.Considerthefabricandtheavailabletimewhenselectingthecustom,

machine,orfusiblemethodfortailoring.Anyoneifthethreemethodswillgivegoodresults.Becausetheundercollarisasmallpiecetohandle,itisagoodchoicefortestingatailoringmethod.Haircanvasistheinterfacingchoiceforboththecustomtailoringand

machinetailoringmethods.Ifthecustommethodisused,handpadstitchingshapestheundercollar;ifthemachinemethodisused,padstitchingisdoneusingmachinestitches.Afterpadstitching,theundercollarispositionedoveratailor’shamandsteamedtosettheshape.Forthefusibletailoringmethod,selectafusibleinterfacingthatisappropriate

forthefabricandstyleofthegarment.Thefusiblemethodusessteamshapinginsteadofpadstitching.

HowtoShapetheUndercollar(custommethod)

1Cutandmarkundercollarandhaircanvas.Stitchundercollarseam;trimto1/4″(6mm),andpress.Lapseamlinesinhaircanvas.Zigzagstitch;trimclosetostitching.

2Marklinesonhaircanvasforpadstitching.Mark1/4″(6mm)apartinstandand3/8″(1cm)infall;nearcollarpoint,spacelinescloser.Orusealternativemarkingbelow.

3Pinhaircanvastoundercollar,wrongsidestogether;hand-basteonrolllinebetweenseamallowances.

4Padstitchinterfacingtocollarasinsteps3and4,page43.Padstitchrollline,stand,andfall.Stitchbackandforth,stopping1/8″(3mm)fromseamlines.

5Trimthehaircanvasjustbeyondseamlinesontheouteredgesofundercollarsohaircanvasisnotcaughtinseams.Donotcutintothepadstitches.

6Foldtheundercollaronrollline.Pintotailor’sham.Steamtosettheshape;donotpressacreaseatrollline.Dryundercollarthoroughlybeforemoving.

Alternativemarking.Forcrisplook(a),marklinesperpendiculartorolllineinthestand.Forcollartobewornupinback(b),eliminaterolllineandmarklinesparalleltocenterback;markremainingareaasshown.

HowtoShapetheUndercollar(machinemethod)

1Markpadstitchinglinesinstand,step2,opposite.Markremainingarea,followinggrainlineasshown.Trimhaircanvas1/2″(1.3cm)fromrawedgeonneckline;trimremainingedgesonseamline.Machine-stitchhaircanvastoundercollaronrollline.

2Machine-stitchstand(a)onpadstitchinglines,workingfromcentertobackseamline.Stitchfallofcollar(b),startingatcenterbackandfollowingmarkedlines.Shapeundercollar,step6,opposite.

HowtoShapetheUndercollar(fusiblemethod)

1Cutundercollarfromfusibleinterfacing;transfermarkingstorightside.Trimoffseamallowanceatcenterback.Cutstripofinterfacingthesizeandshapeofstandsocrosswisegraingoesaroundneckline;donotincludeseamallowances.

2Fuseinterfacingtoundercollar.Stitchcenterbackseam;trimto1/4″(6mm),andpressopen.Fuseinterfacingstriptostand.Shapetheundercollar,step6,opposite.

ShapingtheJacketFrontInterfacingthegarmentfrontbuildsshapeintothejacketorcoatandcontributestothelong-lastinggoodlooksofthegarment.Chooseeitherthecustom,machine,orfusiblemethod.Thepatternpieceisusedforcuttingtheinterfacingandshoulderreinforcementandformakingtherollline.Frontinterfacing(1)helpsthegarmentfronttodrapesmoothlyoverthebody;

garmentfrontedgeshangstraight,andpocketsaresupported.Theshoulderreinforcement(2)ensuresasmoothlinefromshouldertobustline.Becausethegarmentfrontpiecesturnsbacktoformthelapel(3),payspecial

attentiontoshapingthisarea.Thecompletedlapelshouldrollbacksmoothlyandcurveslightlyinwardatthelapelpoints(4).Tapethelapelrollline(5)withstaytapebyhandormachinesothelapelliesclosetothebodywithoutgaping.Thisstepisespeciallyimportantforafull-bustedfigure.Whenusingthecustommethod,tapethefrontedgeswithstaytapetostabilize

them.Thisstepisoptionalinmachineorfusiblemethods,butmaybehelpfulforlooselywovenfabrics.

HowtoShapetheJacketFront(custommethod)

1Cutfrontinterfacingfromhaircanvas(page56).Transferdarts,seamlines,androllline.Cuttheshoulderreinforcement(page56)fromhaircanvasorlambswool.

2Markpadstitchinglinestoseamlines.Placeonelineoneachsideofrollline(arrow)1/8”(3mm)away;thenspacelines1/4”(6mm)apart.Nearthelapelpoint,spacelinescloser.

3Cutoutwedgeofhaircanvasondartstitchinglines.Positionontailor’sham,bringingdartedgestogether.Place1”(2.5cm)stripoflightweightfusibleinterfacingoverdart;fuse.Zigzagcutedgestogether.

4Trimsideandshoulderseamallowancesto1/8″(3mm)beyondseamlinessohaircanvasisnotcaughtinseams.Tosupportset-insleeve,haircanvasisnottrimmedinarmholeseam.

5Marklines1″(2.5cm)apartonshoulderreinforcementifusingwoveninterfacing.Onmarkedlines,machine-bastetofrontinterfacing.

6Tailor-baste(a)interfacingtojacketfront,matchingcollarnotchesandrolllines.Baste(b)torolllinethroughalllayers;catchstitch(c)togarmentatsideandshoulderseams.Baste(d)toarmholeandneckline1/2″(1.3cm)fromrawedges.

7Cut3/8″(1cm)staytapethelengthofrollline.Position1/8″(3mm)fromrollline.Pinendoftapeandlowerendofrollline.Markneckseamlineontape;pulltapesomarkis1/4″to1/2″(6mmto1.3cm)intoseamallowance;pin.

8Pinremainderoftapeinplace,easinggarmenttotapeinbustarea.Catchstitchtape,catchingathreadofgarmentineachstitch,orfellstitchalongbothedges.

9Padstitch(page43),rollinglapeloverfinger.Onrolllineandnextline,makestitches1/8″(3mm)long;thenmakestitches1/4″(6mm)long.Nearlapelpoint,rollmoretightlyandshortenstitches.Stop1/8″(3mm)fromseamline.

10Attachhaircanvastogarmentfromlowerendofrolllinetoloweredgeofgarment,usingpermanentunevenbasting1″(2.5cm)fromrawedge.Betweenloweredgeandcollarnotch,trimhaircanvas3/4″(2cm)fromgarmentrawedge.

11Measuregarmentfrontfromcollarnotchtoloweredge.Cutpieceof3/8″(1cm)staytapetofit.Forcurvedlapelandcurvedloweredge,shapetapetofit,usingpatternpieceasguide.

12Pintapewithoneedgenextto5/8″(1.5cm)seamlineandcoveringedgeofhaircanvas.Beginatloweredge,andworktorollline.Attherollline,turnlapelbackagainstthejacketfronttoalloweaseintapeforthelapeltoroll.

13Pintapeonouteredgeoflapel,foldingtapebackonitselfatlapelpoint.Continuepinningaroundouteredgetocollarnotch.Repeatforotherfront;comparefrontsforequallengthandeaseatrollline.Adjustifnecessary.

14Attachbothedgesoftapetogarmentwithpermanentunevenbastingorfellstitching.

15Rolladamphandtowelintoaflatpad1/2″(1.3cm)thick.Tuckpadunderlapel.Steamtherolllinewithoutpressingacrease.Allowtodryovernighttosetlapel.

HowtoShapetheJacketFront(machinemethod)

1Cutfrontinterfacingandshoulderreinforcementfromhaircanvas(page56).Drawcuttinglinesforcarrierstrips11/2″(3.8cm)infromouteredgeofinterfacingpatternatside,shoulder,neckline,andfront.Transfershapetomuslin;cutcarrierstrips.

2Applyshoulderreinforcement,step5,page70.Positioncarrierstripsoninterfacing,andstitch3/4″(2cm)fromrawedgeswithzigzagstitchingortworowsofstraightstitching.Trimouteredgeofhaircanvasclosetostitching.

3Triminneredgesofcarrierstripsclosetostitching.Bastetogarment1/2″(1.3cm)fromedge.

4Cutandpinstaytapeasinsteps7and8,page70.Machine-stitchbothedgesoftapethroughalllayers.Endstitching2″(5cm)fromlowerendofrollline;fellstitchorcatchstitchremainingtapesostitchesdonotshowonrightside.

HowtoShapetheJacketFront(fusiblemethod)

1Cutfrontinterfacingfromfusibleinterfacing(page56).Cutoutwedgeofinterfacingondartstitchinglines.

2A.Crisprollline.Cutinterfacingonrollline.Trim1/8″(3mm)alongtherolllinefromlargersection.Positionandfusebothsectionstogarmentfront.

2B.Softrollline.Cutextralapelsectionofinterfacingtofitfromrolllinetoseamlines.Placetherolllineonstraightgrainofinterfacingtostabilize.Positionandfuseinterfacingwithtwolayersinlapelarea.

3Determinewhetherrolllinerequirestaping,step4,page49.Taperolllineasinstep4,opposite.

4Cuttheshoulderreinforcementfromfusibleinterfacing(page56).Positionandfusereinforcementtofrontinterfacing.

5Rolladamphandtowelintoaflatpad1/2″(1.3cm)thick.Tuckpadunderlapel.Steamtherolllinewithoutpressingacrease.Allowtodryovernighttosetlapel.

SHAPINGTHEJACKETBACKTostabilizetheshoulderareaofajacketorcoat,abackstayisapplied.Abackstayalsopreventsstraininthegarmentfabricacrosstheshoulderbladesandsupportsthefabrictocreateasmoothline.Thebackstayiscutfromafirmlywoveninterfacing,cottonbroadcloth,or

muslin.Theseamallowancesofthebackstayarecaughtintheseamlinesduringconstruction,eliminatingtheneedforstabilizingthebacknecklinewithtape.Theexceptionisacollarlessgarment,whichissubjectedtomorewearingstrainandshouldbetapedatthebackneckline.Morefullnessisneededtofitthebackshoulderbecauseofitsroundedshape,

soeaseisbuiltintothebackshoulderseamallowance.Caremustbetakeninstitchingandpressingtopreservethissubtleshapinginatailoredgarment.Tapetheshoulderseamstoshapethegarmenttoyourbodyandtokeeptheseamsfromstretching.Shapedshoulderseamsmayappearcurvedaftertheyarestitchandpressed,buttheywillnotappearcurvedwhenyouwearthegarment.

HowtoMakeaBackStay

1Cutbackstay,steps1and2,page57.Overlapandstitchanyseamsanddarts,step1,page66.Pinktheloweredge.

2Preparegarmentback,stitchingandpressingseams,darts,andvents.Positionbackstayongarment;basteneckline,armhole,andside.

Collarlessjacket.Tapebacknecklinebyplacingedgeofstaytape1/2″(1.3cm)fromrawedgeatbackneck.Cliptapesoitliesflat.Withfellstitching,catchedgesoftapetobackstayonly.

HowtoShapetheShoulderSeam

1Pinshoulderseams,rightsidestogether;easeback.Cutstaytapethelengthoffrontseamline.Marktape1/4″(6mm)fromoneend;forroundedshoulders,mark3/8″(1cm)fromend.

2Pintapetofrontshoulderseam,withmarkatrawedge.Centertapeoverseamline,andeaseseamevenly.Stitchseamovertape.Backstitchatendofseam.

3Trimbackstayclosetostitching.Pressseamovertailor’sham,curvingseamtowardthefront.

TAILORINGANOTCHEDCOLLAR

Mostpatternsdonotincludeinterfacingintheuppercollarandfacing.Addinglightweightfusibleinterfacingtothesetwoareasstabilizesthegarmentfabricandmakesitmorecompatiblewiththelayersinthegarmentfrontandundercollar.Joiningtheuppercollar/facingunittotheundercollar/garmentunitiseasierbecausethelayersaresimilarinweightandtexture,andseamsdonotslipwhenstitched.Theextralayerinthelapelanduppercollaralsoactsasabuffertohelpobscureenclosedseamedges.Chooseeitherfusibleknitorlightweightweft-insertioninterfacingtokeepweightandthicknesstoaminimum.Testbothonascrapofgarmentfabric,andchoosethemostcompatible.Includetheinterfacingintheseamallowancesonmediumweightfabrics.Thefusibleinterfacinghelpssetthepressinenclosedseams.Ifyourgarmentfabricisheavy,trim1/2″(1.3cm)frominterfacingseamallowancesbeforefusing.Ifusingknitinterfacing,cutinterfacingforgarmentfrontanduppercollaron

lengthwisegrain.Ifusingweft-insertioninterfacing,cutfrontinterfacingonthelengthwisegrainandtheuppercollaronthetruebiassoitcurvesgentlyaroundtheneckline.Ifthegarmenthasabackneckfacing,donotinterfacethispiece.

HowtoPreparetheCollarandFacing

1Cutinterfacingforuppercollarandfrontfacing,followinggrainlinedirections,opposite.Fuseandallowtocool.

2Stitchbackneckfacing,ifincluded,tofrontfacing.Pressseamsopen;trimto1/4″(6mm).Staystitchfacingonnecklineedge.Clipfacingtostaystitchingatcollarnotches(largedots).

3A.Pinuppercollartofacingsbetweencollarnotches,rightsidestogether.Matchcenterbacksandshoulders;clipfacingstostaystitchingasneeded.Stitchfromcollarnotchtocollarnotch;do

notcatchuppercollarseamallowancesinstitching.Stitchbackandforthtosecureends,leaving10″(25cm)threadtailsatcollarnotches.B.Garmentwithoutbackneckfacing.Stitchfrontfacingstouppercollaronly.Beginatcollarnotch,andendatshouldermarkonuppercollar;donotcatchuppercollarseamallowancesinstitching.Stitchbackandforthtosecureends,leaving10”(25cm)threadtailsatcollarnotches.

4Pinundercollartogarment;matchmarkingsandrollline.Clipgarmenttofitundercollar.Stitchfromcollarnotchtocollarnotch(arrows);donotcatchundercollarseamallowancesinstitching.Stitchbackandforthtosecureends,leaving10″(25cm)threadtailsatcollarnotches.Cliptocollarnotches.

5Comparelapelsonuppercollar/facingunitandlapelsonundercollar/garmentunit;pintogetheratcollarnotches.Iflapelsarenotthesamesizeorcollarsdonotmatch,releasestitchingtoshoulderandrestitchnecklineseams.

HowtoTrimandPressNecklineSeams

1Trimnecklineseamallowancesofuppercollar/facingunitto3/8″(1cm).Pressopenoncontouredpressingboard;useclapper.

2Trimnecklineseamallowancesofundercollar/garmentunitto1/4″(6mm).Trimbackstayclosetonecklinestitching.Trimhaircanvasinundercollarandnecklineseamallowancesofgarmentfront.

3Pressseamopenoncontouredpressingboard;useclapper.Catchstitchnecklineseamallowancestohaircanvasinterfacingtowithin2″(5cm)ofcollarnotchonundercollar/garmentunit.

AdjustingfortheTurnoftheClothWhenevertwoormorelayersoffabricareheldtogetherinacurvedposition,theupperlayermustbeslightlylargerthantheunderlayertoallowforthecurve,ortheturnofthecloth.Inatailoredjacket,theuppercollarmustbelargertogoupandovertherolloftheundercollar.Thecompletedcollarshouldcoverthenecklineseaminback,aspicturedabove,withoutrollingoutattheedge.Althoughmostpatternsarecutwithextraeaseintheuppercollarandlapel

edgesfortheturnofthecloth,thethicknessandweightofthegarmentfabricmayrequiremorethanthepatternallows.Beforestitchingtheuppercollar/facingunittotheundercollar/garmentunit,adjustfortheturnoftheclothintheuppercollarfromshouldertoshoulderacrosstheaback.Thenattachtheuppercollar/facingunittotheundercollar/garmentunit,andcompletethecollar,carefullyfollowingthedirectionsonpages80to83.Thecollarandlapelwillhaveaflat,smoothcollarnotchwithouttightpuckersandpulls.

HowtoAdjusttheCollarfortheTurnoftheCloth

1Pinnecklineseamsofuppercollarandundercollar,withwrongsidestogetherandshoulderseamsmatching.Placepinsinseamline.Positionondressformorshapedhanger.

2Markpositionofuppercollarrawedgeonundercollar,usingpins.Ifcollaredgesmatch,thismarkingisnotnecessary.

3Pincollars,rightsidestogether,matchingrawedgeofuppercollartopinmarksonundercollar.Hand-bastefromundercollarsideon5/8″(1.5cm)seamline.

HowtoAttachtheUpperCollar/FacingUnittotheUndercollar/GarmentUnit

1Drawaccurateseamlinesonlapelsofgarment.Startatlaststitchofnecklineseam,anddrawtolapelpoint,then1″(2.5cm)downside.

2Pinsmalltucksabout1/2″(1.3cm)insideseamlinesatpointsofuppercollarandfacing.Thiscausesseamedgetorolltoundersideincompletedcollarandlapel.

3Matchcollarnotchescarefully;pinthroughlayersatlaststitchofnecklineseam.Usetweezerstoremovetailor’stacks.

4Threadneedlewiththreadtailsatendofnecklineseam;bringthroughtocollarnotch.Tieallfourthreadtailstogetherinasecureknot.Removepin,andtrimtails.

5Pinfacingtogarment;workfromcollarnotchtorollline,centeringtheeaseinfacing1/2″(1.3cm)oneachsideoflowerendoflapelrollline.Continuetoloweredgeofgarment;pullfacingslightlytautaroundcurveatloweredgesocurvewillcupagainstbody.Basteifdesired.

6Stitcharoundcollarfromcollarnotchtocollarnotch;beginandendonestitchfromnecklinestitching.Shortenstitchlengtharoundcollarpoint;stitchtwostitchesacrosspoint.Leave10″(25cm)threadtails;donotbackstitch.Tieoffthreadtailsateachendofstitching.

7Stitchfromcollarnotchtoloweredgeofgarment.Beginwith10″(25cm)threadtail;startonestitchfromnecklinestitching.Stitchupperseamlineoflapelinaslightupwardbowtopreventtheillusionofadipatedgeoflapel.Shortenstitchlength,andstitchtwostitchesacrosspoint.

8Stitchremainingside.Comparesizeandshapeofcollarandlapelpointsandthelengthoffrontstomakesuretheymatch.Checkstitchingaccuracy;adjustifnecessary.Tieoffthreadtails.Removebasting.

HowtoTrimandPresstheCollarandLapels

1Pressseamsflattosetstitches.Positionseamsonpointpresserorcontouredpressingboard;pressseamsopen.Forroundedcollarandlapels,positioncurvesoncurveofcontouredpressingboardortailor’sham.

2Clipseamallowanceatlowerendofrollline.Belowclip,gradejacketseamallowanceto1/4″(6mm)andfacingto1/8″(3mm).Aboveclip,gradejacketseamallowanceto1/8″(3mm)andfacingto1/4″(6mm).Trimpoints,andnotchcurvedseamallowances.

3Gradeuppercollarseamallowanceto1/4″(6mm)andundercollarseamallowanceto1/8″(3mm).Trimpoints,andnotchcurvedseamallowances.Pressallseamsopenagainincollar,lapels,andfrontedges.

4Turnrightsideout.Threadaneedle,anddrawthreadthroughastitchincollarorlapelpoint.Tugthreadtailsgentlytoturnpoint.Orusepointturnertopushoutpoints;useroundedendofturnertosmoothoutcurves.

5Rolledgeofcollartoundersideandedgeoflapeltowardgarmentfromcollarnotchtolowerendofrollline.Rolledgetowardfrontfacingfromrolllinetoloweredgeofgarment.Hand-bastewithsilkthread.

6Pressfromcenterbackofcollartoloweredgeofgarment.Workinginsmallsections,steampressbastededgesanduseclapper.Repeatuntiledgeissmooth,flat,andthin.Allowtodry.

HowtoTacktheNecklineSeam

1Smoothcollarandlapelsinplace.Anchoruppercollartoundercollarandfacingtogarmentatrolllines,usingtailorbasting.

2Attachfacingseamtonecklineseamwithlooserunningstitch.Forgarmentswithoutabackneckfacing,attachseamlineofuppercollartonecklineseamofgarment.

TAILORINGASHAWLCOLLAR

Shawlcollarsrequireshapingwithinterfacingandtape,butareeasiertotailorthannotchedcollars.Themethodsusedtocutandapplytheinterfacingandbackstayaresimilartothosefornotchedcollarstyles.Haircanvasorfusibleinterfacingmaybeusedtotailorashawlcollar.

Onshawlcollarpatterns,boththeupperandundercollarhaveacenterbackseam.Insomepatterns,theundercollarandthegarmentfrontarecutasonepiece.Inothers,theundercollarisseparateandmustbeappliedtothefrontandbackneckline.Selectfromcustom,machine,orfusiblemethodsoftailoring.Interfaceand

shapetheundercollarandjacketfrontaccordingtothemethodselected.Whichevermethodoftailoringisused,theshawlcollarisconstructedinthesamewayoncetheinterfacingisapplied.

HowtoShapeandStitchaShawlCollar

1Cut,mark,andapplyinterfacingtoundercollarandjacketfrontasforcustom(a),machine(b),orfusible(c)method.Stitchtheundercollarcenterbackseam.Tapetherolllineifdesired,stoppingattheshoulderseam;usecustommethod,steps7and8,page70,ormachinemethod,step4,page72.Forcustommethod,tapefrontedgefromtopbuttonholetoloweredgeofgarment.

2Staystitchuppercollarneckedgeonseamline,usingsmallerreinforcingstitchesatinsidecorners.Cliptostitchingatcorners.Staystitchbackneckfacing1/2”(1.3cm)fromrawedge;clip.

3Pinandstitchfacingtouppercollar.Stitchtocorner,spreadclips,andpivot.Continuestitching.

4Cutsquarefromuppercollarseamallowanceateachcorner.Trimseamallowancesto3/8”(1cm).Pressseamopenovercontouredpressingboardortailor’sham.

5Stitchuppercollar/facingunittoundercollar/garmentunit.Stitchfromcenterbackofcollartoloweredgeofgarment.Repeatonotherhalf.Trimandpressasfornotchedcollar(page82).

TAILORINGPOCKETS

Pocketsarehighlyvisiblefashiondetailsintailoredjacketsandcoats.Theycanbefunctionalorpurelydecorative.Theycanbeassimpleasthecurvedorrectangularpatchpocketmostoftenfoundinblazers,casualcoats,andgarmentswithmen’sstyling.Ortheycanbeascomplexasadoublewelt,flap,orsingleweltpocket.Allrequireattentiontodetailandcareful,accuratestitchingtoensurebeautifulresults.

Onceyouhavemasteredthetechniquesforeachtypeofpocket,itisrelativelysimpletosubstituteonetypeforanother.Afabricthatravelsmaynotbeidealforapatternwithdoubleweltpockets,soyoumaysubstitutelinedpatchpockets.Ifpatchpocketsaddtoomuchbulkatthehiplineofafullfigure,orifthefabricisbulky,straightorslanteddoubleweltpocketsaresmoother,lessbulkyalternatives.

HowtoSewanUnlinedCurvedPatchPocket

1Fusefusibleknitinterfacingtowrongsideofpocket.Overlockorzigzagedgeofself-facing.Foldpocketfacingtoinside,andpress.

2Machine-stitch1/2″(1.3cm)fromrawedges,usingcontrastingthread.Pressseamallowancesovercardboardtemplatecuttofinishedpocketsize.

3Trimseamallowanceto1/4″(6mm).Ifdesired,finishrawedgeswithoverlockingorzigzaggingtopreventraveling.

4Positionpocketongarment,asabove;hand-baste.Loosenuppertensionslightly;barelycatchpocketedgewithlongnarrowzigzagstitch.Removehandbasting.

5Setmachineforstraightstitchingandbalancedtension.Workinginsidepocket,openseamallowanceandstitchonthepressedline.

6Openpocketasyoustitch;keepgarmentsmoothunderpresserfoot.Zigzagstitchessecurepocketandopenupasyoustitch.Removezigzagstitches.Backstitchtoreinforcecorners.

Pocketpairsshouldbeidenticalinsize,shape,andposition.Whetherdecorativeorfunctional,theyshouldbeplacedatacomfortableandflatteringposition.Checkpocketplacementonyourtestgarmentorwhenpin-fittingthepattern.Pocketsareeasiesttosewwhenthegarmentfrontsarestillseparatefromotherpartsofthegarment.

PatchPocketsMachinestitchingthatisinvisiblefromtheoutsideofthegarmentcanbeusedforanunlinedcurvedpatchpocketwithself-facing.Thismethodworksbestonmediumandlargepocketsandmayrequirepractice.

TwoWaystoPositionaPatchPocketonaGarment

Placecompletedpocketongarmentatpocketplacementlines.Placeuppercornersslightlyinsideplacementlinetoalloweaseforcurveofbody.

Placegarmentontailor’sham,andpositionpocket.Curveofthehamallowsforcurveofbody.

HowtoSewaLinedPatchPocket

1Applyinterfacingtowrongsideofpocket.Markseamlinearoundacardboardtemplatecuttothefinishedsize.

2Stitchliningtoself-facing,rightsidestogether;leaveopeningincenter.Trimandpressseamtowardlining.Trim1/8″(3mm)fromedgeofliningandself-facing;tapertofoldline.

3Pinliningtopocket,rightsidestogetherandouteredgesmatching.Stitchonmarkedseamline.

4Pressseamflat;pressliningseamallowancetowardlining.Trim,clip,andnotchseams.

5Turnpocketrightsideout;pressfromliningside,rollingseamtowardlining.Closeopeningwithfusibleweborslipstitching.

HowtoAttachaLinedPatchPocketbyMachine

1Cut1/8″(3mm)stripoffusibleweb,andpositionjustinsideedgeonundersideofcompletedpocket.Holdsteamiron1″(2.5cm)away,andsteamlightly.

2Positionpocketongarmentatplacementlines.Coverwithpresscloth,andfusewithsteamforafewseconds.

3Edgestitchortopstitch1/8″(6mm)fromfinishededge.Toreinforcecorners,zigzagwithshortstitches,orbackstitch.

HowtoAttachaLinedPatchPocketbyHand

1Positioncompletedpocketongarment,andhand-baste1/2″(1.3cm)fromfinishededge.Rollpocketbacktobastingline;slipstitchliningtogarment.

2Slipstitchagainclosetofinishededge.Topreventflattenededge,donotpullstitchestootight.Reinforcecornerswithhandbartacks(page44)orinvisiblestitching.Removebasting.

WeltPockets

Adoubleweltpocketisacouturedetailthatrequiresprecisemarking,cutting,andstitching.Flappocketsandsingleweltpocketsarevariationsofthedoubleweltpocket.Asingleweltpocketisoftenpositionedasabreastpocketbutcanalsobeplacedinthelowerpocketarea,eitherstraightoratanangle.Eliminatetheweltandpocketliningpatternpiecesifincludedinyourpattern.

Flapandsingleweltpocketsrequirethesamepocketliningandunderlaypiecesandthesamepocketplacementmarkingsasdoubleweltpockets.Thedirectionsthatfollowarefor5″(12.5cm)pockets.Itiseasytochangethe

sizeofaweltpocket.Foradoubleweltpocket,simplycuttheweltsthedesiredfinishedlengthofthepocketplus1-1/2″(3.8cm);theweltsarealwayscut11/8″(2.7cm)indepth.Forasingleweltpocket,cuttheweltthedesiredfinishedlengthofthepocketplus1/2″(1.3cm);cutthedepthtwotimesthefinisheddepthplus1″(2.5cm).Ifusingfusibleinterfacing,applytheinterfacingbeforeattachingthepocket.

Ifusinghaircanvas,attachthepocketfirst.Theareabehindthepocketmaybebackedwithlightweightfusibleinterfacingforstability.Amuslinstripextendingfromalowerweltpockettothearmholegivessupporttothepocketandpreventsgapingandpullingatthepocketopening.Weltandflatpocketsmaycrossadartorseambutshouldneverendatone.

Alwaysdoatestpockettodeterminesuitabilityforthefabricyouareusingandtomasterthetechnique.

HowtoStayandMarkaWeltPocket

1Reinforceareabehindthepocketwithapinkedovaloflightweightfusibleinterfacing.Beforefusing,removeallbutonestrandofflossfrompockettailor’stacks.

2Cuta1″x15″(2.5x38cm)stripofmuslinonstraightgrainforeachpocket(exceptbreastpockets).Centeroverendofplacementlinefromcenterlinetoarmhole.Baste;trimexcessatarmhole.

3Markpocketpositiononrightsideofgarment,usingsharpenedwaxchalkandsee-throughruler.Markcenterandendsofplacementlines.Basteincontrastingthreadifchalkwillnotmark.

HowtoCutPocketWeltsandLining

A.Straightpocket.Foreachpocket,cuttwoweltsfromgarmentfabric,11/8″x61/2″(2.7x16.3cm),oncrosswisegrain.B.Angledpocket.Foreachpocket,cuttwowelts,11/8”x61/2”(2.7x16.3cm);cutatthesameangleoncrosswisegrainasthepocketplacementline.

2Cuttwoliningpiecesforeachpocketfromliningorpocketingfabric(page27).Liningpiecesshouldmeasure61/2″x7-1/2″(16.3x19.3cm).

3Cuta2″x61/2″(5x16.3cm)stripofgarmentfabricforpocketunderlayforeachpocket.Positionunderlayonrightsideofoneliningpiece,withupperedgeseven.Baste1/4″(6mm)fromupperedge,andzigzagloweredgeofunderlaytolining.

HowtoSewaDoubleWelt

1Steampresspocketweltswhilestretching.Repeatseveraltimestoremoveallstretchandeliminatepuckeringincompletedwelt.

2Foldandpressweltslengthwise,withwrongsidestogetherandrawedgesmatching.Machine-basteexactly1/4″(6mm)fromfoldforstitchingguideline.Trimrawedgestoscant1/4″(6mm)fromstitching.

3Positionweltsongarmentfronts,withrawedgesmeetingoncenterlineofpocketmarking;stitchinglinesmustbeplaced1/2″(1.3cm)apart.Pinweltsinplace.Markendsofplacementlinesonwelts.

4Stitchfromrightsidepreciselyonstitchingguidelines,using20stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Beginandendstitchingexactlyatendsofplacementlines;backstitchtosecure.Checkstitchingfromwrongsideforaccuracy;adjustifnecessary.Press.

5Slashgarmentoncenterpocketline,workingfromwrongside;stop1/2″(1.3cm)fromeachend.Donotcutwelts.Cutremainderofopeningatanangle,clippingto,butnotthrough,thelaststitch.Iffabricislooselywoven,treatclippededgesatcornerswithliquidfraypreventer.

6Turnweltstoinsideandadjustinopeningsotheyarestraightandeven.Ifcornerspuckerandweltsdonotlieflat,carefullyturnweltsbacktooutsideandclipclosertostitchesateachcorner.Tailor-basteweltstogetherwithsilkthread;press.Leavebastinginplaceuntilgarmentiscompleted.

HowtoAttachaDoubleWeltPocketLining

1Layliningpiecewithoutunderlayoverwelts,withrawedgeofliningevenwithrawedgeoflowerwelt.

2Stitch,withliningsidedown,alongpreviousstitchingline.Foldliningdown,andpress.

3Stitchlining/underlaytoedgeofupperwelt,withunderlayagainstwelt;followpreviousstitchingline.Loweredgesofliningarenoteven.

4Foldgarmentbacktoexposewelts,andmachine-bastethroughbaseoftriangles.Checkendsonrightsideofgarmenttomakesurestitchingisstraightandcornersaresecure.

5Stitchliningpiecestogetherwith3/4″(2cm)seamallowanceStitchovertrianglesseveraltimestoreinforce;roundofflowercorners.Press.Pinkouteredgesoflining.

HowtoSewaSingleWeltPocket

1Cutoneweltfromgarmentfabric51/2″x3″(14x7.5cm)foreachpocket.Interfaceweltwithlightweightfusibleinterfacing.

2Foldweltlengthwise,withrightsidestogetherandrawedgeseven.Stitch1/4″(6mm)seamsatendsofwelt;trim.Turnweltrightsideout;press.Bastestitchingguideline1″(2.5cm)fromfold.

3Positionweltongarment,rightsidestogether,withrawedgesatpocketcenterlineandwithfoldtowardloweredgeofgarment.Followsteps2and3,page91,tocutandsewpocketandunderlaypieces.Pinlining/underlaypieceongarment,withunderlayagainstgarmentandrawedgesatcenterline.

4Markendsofstitchinglinesonlining/underlay1/8″(3mm)infromendsofwelt.Stitchlining/underlayandweltinplaceonstitchingguidelines;beginandendstitchingexactlyatendsofweltandatendsofmarkedguidelineonlining/underlay(arrows).

5Slashandclipgarmentasinstep5,page92.Turnlining/underlaytoinsidethroughslash,andpressweltupoveropening.

6Completepocketlining,asinsteps1,2,4,and5,page93.Fellstitchoredgestitchendsofwelttogarment.

HowtoSewaWeltPocketwithFlap

1Usepatterntocutflapfromgarmentfabricandlining.Trim1/8″(3mm)fromouteredgesofliningsoseamwillrollunder.Ifdesired,fuselightweightinterfacingtowrongsideofflap.

2Pinflapandlining,rightsidestogether,forcingedgestomatch.Usingshortstitches,stitchliningtoflap,leavingupperedgeopen.

3Pressseamflat;pressliningseamallowancetowardlining.Trimandgradeseamallowances;clip,turn,andpress.Theseamrollsunderslightly.Basterawedgestogether.

4Cutandsewdoubleweltpocket(pages91and92);donotbasteweltstogether.Slipflapintoweltopening.

5Pinflap,aligningflapseamlinewithweltopening(arrow);baste.Completepocket(page93).

HowtoAddaPockettoJacketLining

1Addoneormoreweltpocketstorightliningfront.Determinedesiredpositionandsize;markplacement.

2Sewsingleordoubleweltpocket(pages90to94).

TAILORINGSLEEVES

Asmoothsleevewithasoftlyroundedcapisatruemarkofanexpertlytailoredjacketorcoat.Specialsewingtechniquesmakeitpossibletoeaseasleeveintoanarmholewithoutmakingvisibletucks.Woolfabricseaseintothearmholeseammorereadilythanothersbecauseexcessfullnesscanbeminimizedwithsteampressing.Beforesettinginsleeves,stitchallseamsinthebodyofthegarment.Useoneofthefollowingtwomethodstosetinsleeves.Thefirstisanadaptationofthestandardeasestitchedmethod.Forthismethod,stitchthreerowsofeasestitchinginsteadoftheusualtwo,spacingrows1/4″,1/2″,and3/4″(6mm,1.3cm,and2cm)fromtherawedgeofthesleevecapfromnotchtonotch.Ifthefabricneedle-marks,placethethirdrow5/8″(1.5cm)fromtheedge.Pullupthebobbinthreadsandadjusttheeaseinthesleevecap.Asmallamountofeaseshouldbeatthetop,withmostoftheeasebetweenthetopofthesleeveandthesmalldotsbetweenthetopandnotches.Thesecondmethodusesatruebiasstripoflambswool,haircanvas,orself-

fabrictocontrolfullness.Thismethodissuitableforanytailoringfabric.Itis

fabrictocontrolfullness.Thismethodissuitableforanytailoringfabric.Itishighlyrecommendedforfabricsthataredifficulttoeaseorwhenitisdifficulttoshrinkoutfullnesswithsteam.Useself-fabricstripsforunlinedgarments.Addasleeveheadafterthesleeveissetintosupportthesleevecapandto

preventtheedgeoftheseamallowancefromshowingontherightside.Asleeveheadisusuallynotnecessarywhenthesleeveissetinwiththebiasstripmethod.Donotaddasleeveheadindroppedshouldersleeves.

HowtoSewaSet-inSleevewithEasestitching

1Easestitcharoundsleevecapasdescribed,opposite.Loosentension;stitchonrightsideofsleeve10stitchesperinch(2.5cm).

2Drawupbobbinthread,estimatingamountofease.Adjusteaseinsleevecapasdescribed,opposite.Totestsleeveshape,cupfingersundersleevecap.

3Pinsleeveintoarmhole,matchingmarkingsandrawedges.Easeunderarmsectionslightly.Whenpinningaroundcap,holdgarmentoverfingerssosleeveturnsback;adjustease.

4Hand-basteontheseamline,usingsmallstitches.Tryonwithshoulderpadsinplace;adjustsetandhangofsleeve(page52).

5Wrapeasestitchingthreadsaroundpin.Ifsleevecappuckers,removesleeve.Shrinkouteaseovertailor’sham,holdingironjustabovefabric;steam.Allowtodry.Repeatsteps3and4.

6Stitchsleeve,garmentsideup.Startatnotch;stitchunderarm,aroundcap,andbacktobeginningnotch.Stitchasecondrow1/8″(3mm)fromfirstinunderarmseamallowancebetweennotches.

7Checksleeveonoutsideforsmooth,pucker-freestitching;adjustifnecessary.Removehandbastingoninsideandanymachinebastingthatshowsontheoutside.Trimtheunderarmto1/4″(6mm)betweennotches.Trimtheremainderto1/2″(1.3cm).

8Pressthesleevecapseamallowanceonly,upto1/8″(3mm)beyondseamlineintocaptopreventaflattenedsleevecap.Donotpressunderarmcurve.

HowtoSewaSet-inSleevewithBiasStrip

1Cuttwo2″x12″(5x30.5cm)truebiasstripsoflambswool.Snip-markcenterofeachstrip.Useonepintosecurebiasstriptowrongsideattopofsleevecap,withrawedgesmatching.

2Insertneedleatpin,andstitchbiasstriptocap1/2″(1.3cm)fromrawedge.Fullystretchbiasstripwhilestitchingfromtopofcaptosmalldot.Atsametime,easefabric,gentlypushingitunderpresserfoot.Atdot,stopeasingfabricbutcontinuestretchingbiasstrip.Endstitchingatnotch.

3Repeatonotherhalfofsleeve.Ifmachinedoesnothavemarkedstitchinggaugetoleftofneedle,mark1/2″(1.3cm)gaugewithtapeonbedofmachine.Trimawayanyexcessbiasstripbelownotches;looptight.

4Pinsleeveintogarment.Ifsleeveislargerthanarmhole,distributeeaseandpinliberally.Ifsleeveissmallerthanarmhole,snipeverysixthstitchandreleasefullness.Stitchandpresssleeves,steps6to8,page97.

HowtoAddaSleeveHead

1Cuta2″x9″(5x23cm)biasstripoflambswoolorheavyflannelforeachsleeve(a).Fold5/8″(1.5cm)fromonelongedgeofhead.Orusenonwovenpurchasedsleevehead(b).

2Centersleeveheadinthesleevecap,andslipstitchthefoldededgetothesleeveseam.

HowtoAttachShoulderPads(forset-insleeves)

1Usestandardshoulderpads(page26).Pinintogarment,withpadextending1/2″(1.3cm)beyondseamline.Tryongarment;adjustplacementforsmoothfit.

2Attachpadtoshoulderseamallowance,usingloosestitches.Donotstitchthroughalllayersofpad.

3Smoothgarmentoverpad.Tackloweredgeofpadtoarmholeseamallowance,usingloosestitches.

HowtoAttachShoulderPads(fordroppedshoulders)

1Useraglanshoulderpads(page26).Tryonthegarment.Positionpadsosleevehangsstraightfromshoulder.Pinpadinplace.

2Attachpadtoshoulderseamallowance,usingloosestitches.Donotstitchthroughalllayersofpad.

HowtoAttachShoulderPads(forraglansleeves)

1Useraglanshoulderpads(page26).Tryonthegarment.Positionpadsosleevehangsstraightfromshoulder.Pinpadinplace.

2Tackpadtoraglansleevestay(page57),ortacktoshoulderseamordart.

TAILORINGHEMSHemsinthesleevesandloweredgesoftailoredgarmentsareinterfacedwithstripsofinterfacingtoaddbodyandtosupporttheweightofthehem.Interfacingalsoaddsstrengthandpreventsstretchinginhemedges,whicharesubjecttowear.Whenhemsareinterfaced,hemmingstitchesandtheedgeofthehemdonotshowthroughtotherightside.Ifusingwovenorweft-insertionfusibleinterfacingorhaircanvasinterfacing,cutstripsonthetruebias.Ifusingfusibleknitornonwovenfusibleinterfacing,cutstripssothecrosswisestretchgoesaroundthebody.Forthecustommethod,interfacingintailoredhemsextends1/2″(1.3cm)beyondthehemlineintothehemallowancetocushiontheedgeforasofterfold.Cuthaircanvasstripsthewidthofthehemallowanceplus1-1/2″(3.8cm).Piecethestripstofitthecircumferenceofthehemplus1″(2.5cm)foroverlapatfrontinterfacing.Forthefusiblemethod,interfacingextends1/2″(1.3cm)beyondthehemline

intothegarment.Cutfusibleinterfacingstrips1/2″(1.3cm)widerthanthehemallowanceandthelengthofeachsectionofthehembetweenseamallowances.Allow1/4″(6mm)extraoneachstripthatoverlapsthefrontinterfacing.Pinkonelongedgeoftheinterfacingstrips.Tryonthegarmenttodeterminethefinishedlengthofthesleevesandofthe

garment.Thefinishedsleeveshouldcoverthewristboneby1/2″to1″(1.3to2.5cm).Pinhemsandtrimtoanevenwidth.Inbuttonedstylestheunderlapsideshouldbeslightlyshorterthantheoverlap.Forathinandcrispfinishededge,miterthecornerintheoverlapsofsleeve

andbackventstoreducethelayers.Thesleevescanbemiteredandhemmedbeforetheyaresetintothearmholeifthecorrectlengthwasdeterminedinatestgarment.Ifnot,setthesleevesinfirst,checkthelength,andthenhemusingthemiteringtechnique(page103).

HowtoHemaJacketorCoat(custommethod)

1Pressalightcreaseathemfold.Turnup1/8″(3mm)extrainfrontfacing,taperingtothefrontseamsofacingedgewillnotshowfromtheoutsidewhenhemmed.Trimseams.

2Easestitch1/4″(6mm)fromhemedge.Toremoveslightfullness,drawupstitchingandadjusteasesohemedgelieslooselyagainstgarment.Tuckpaperstripsunderhemallowance;steamhemedgelightlytoshrinkoutfullness.

3Placeapininthehemallowance1″(2.5cm)insidetherawedgeofthefrontfacing.

4Trimfacinghemallowance1/2″(1.3cm)belowhemline.Trimgarment3/4″(2cm)belowhemlinefromfacingseamlinetopininhemallowance.Clipandpressseamtowardfacinginhemallowance.

5Cuthaircanvasstrips,opposite.Pininplace,with1/2″(1.3cm)extendingpasthemline.Catchstitchtofrontinterfacing.Usepermanentunevenbastingstitchesinhemlineandtemporarybasting1/2″(1.3cm)fromupperrawedgeofstripstosecurestriptogarment.

6Turnbackupperedgeofstrip1/4″(6mm),andstitchtogarmentwithinvisibletailor’shemstitch.Usematchingthread,anddonotpullstitchestight.Removebastingatupperedgeofstrip.

7Turnhemup,andpress.Useclappertoflattenfacinghem.Baste1/2″(1.3cm)fromhemline.Attachrawedgeofhemtointerfacingwithpermanentunevenbasting.

8Turnfacingtoinsideofgarment.Attachrawedgeoffacingtogarmenthemallowancewithfellstitches.Forfabricsthatravel,applyliquidfraypreventer.

HowtoHemaJacketorCoat(fusiblemethod)

1Preparehemasinstep1,opposite.Fuseinterfacingstrips(above)tohemallowance,withpinkededgeextendingintogarment1/2″(1.3cm)pasthemline.Fuseendsunderseamallowances.

2Completehemmingpreparationsasinsteps2to4,above.Turnhemup,andpress;pinkrawedges.Bastehemtogarment1/2″(1.3cm)belowedge.Usetailor’shemstitch,catchingonlyathreadofgarmentinstitches.Completehemasinstep8,above.

HowtoMiterandHemaBackVent

1Reinforceventcorneronrightback,usingshortstitchesjustinsideseamline.Stitchcenterbackseam;cliprightbackseamallowancetodot.Pressoverlaptowardleftback,creasingfoldline.Pressunderseamallowanceonunderlap.Pressalightcreaseathemline,withunderlap1/8″(3mm)shorterthanoverlap.

2Interfacevent.Ifusingbiashaircanvas(a),cut1″(2.5cm)widerandlongerthanoverlap;extend1/2″(1.3cm)pastupperedgeofventandfoldlinesofventandhem.Securewithpermanentunevenbasting.Interfacehem,step5,page101.Ifusingfusibleinterfacing(b),cut1/2″(1.3cm)widerand1″(2.5cm)longerthanoverlap.Fusetoventself-facing;extend1/2″(1.3cm)pastupperedgeofventandfoldlinesofventandhem.Interfacehem,step1,page101.

3Arrangetheventinwearingposition.Turnup,pin,andpresshemascreasedinstep1,above.

4Clipoverlapandhemallowancewhereedgesmeet.

5Openoutcorner.Markstitchinglinefromclips,markingthroughcornerwherepressedlinesmeet.

6Foldondiagonal,withrightsidestogetherandclipsmatching.Stitchonmarkedline;trim.Pressseamopen.Turnrightsideout.

7Foldunderlaphemtooutside.Stitchonseamlinefromfoldtohemedge;grade.Pressseamopen.Turnrightsideout,andpress.

8Basteventinwearingposition.Machine-stitchacrossupperedgeofventthroughalllayers;gradeseam.Catchstitchventedges.Stitchhem.

HowtoMiterandHemaSleeveVent

1Stitchuppersleevetoundersleeve;leaveseamwithventopen.Pressfoldlinesofventandhem.Cutandapplyhaircanvas(a)orfusible(b)interfacing(page101);donotextendhaircanvasintoventunderlap.

2Foldventoverlaptoinside;turnuphemallowance.Completeasforbackvent,steps4to6,opposite.Hand-stitchhem.

3Stitchseamwithvent;cliptheunderlapseamallowancetodot.Pressseamopen.Catchstitchupperedgeandsidesofvent.Sewbuttonsontherightsideofoverlapatthepatternmarkings.

HowtoPrepareaGarmentforLining

1Turnfacingbackandanchortotapeatrollline,usingsmallinvisiblestitches.Ifboundbuttonholesareused,finishbacks,step15,page119.

2Catchstitchouteredgesoffacingtointerfacingunlessliningistobeattachedbymachine.Pressgarment,asneeded,beforeapplyinglining.

FINISHINGTECHNIQUES

Youarenearingthefinishline,butthisisnotimetoskimponyourattentiontodetail.Thelastfewstepstocompleteyourtailoredgarmentincludeaddingthelining,topstitchingtheedges,andsewingtheclosures.Whilemakingiteasytoslipintoyourjacketorcoat,asilky-smoothliningalsoprotectstheinnerconstructionfromabrasivewearandtear.Precisetopstitchingandperfectbuttonholesarecrowningfeaturesthattestifytothecarefultailoringhiddeninsideyourgarment.

LININGS

Tailoredjacketsandcoatsareusuallylined.Aliningcoverstheinterfacinglayersandotherdetailsofinnerconstruction.Iteliminatestheneedfortime-consumingseamfinishesandreducesfrictionbetweenthejacketorcoatandthegarmentswornbeneathit.Aliningtakesmostofthewearingstrain,lengtheningthelifeanddurabilityofthefinishedjacketorcoat.Pipingcanbeaddedbetweentheliningandthefacingasaspecialfinishingdetail.Thecustommethodforsettinginaliningcombinesmachine-stitchingtheliningpiecestogether,thenhand-sewingtheliningintothegarment.Settingintheliningbymachineisafastermethod.Inthismethod,lining

sleevesaremachine-stitchedtothegarmentatthehem.Evenwhentheliningissetinbymachine,thesleevesshouldbesetintothearmholebyhandtoanchorthebodyliningandsleeveliningtothejacketforbetterfitandwearability.Foreitherthecustomormachinemethod,cuttheliningpiecesasdirectedonpages58and59.

HowtoAttachaLining(custommethod)

1Staystitchfront,neck,andshoulderedgesoflining.Stitchandpressalllengthwiseseamsinbodyofliningandsleevelinings.Stitchbackdartsifincluded;press.Turnunderandpressseamallowancesonliningfront;clipsotheylieflat.

2Basteoncenterbackline,andpresspleattowardleftback.Featherstitchorcatchstitchpleatthroughalllayersatneckline,waist,andloweredgefor2″to3″(5to7.5cm).Removebasting.

3Basteanytucksordartsatshouldersandwaistline;press.Atshoulders,featherstitchorcatchstitchfor2″(5cm)fromrawedge.Atwaist,featherstitchfor2″(5cm)atcenteroftuckordart.Removebasting.

4Stitchsideseamallowancesofliningandgarmenttogetherwithlong,looserunningstitches.Endstitching4″(10cm)fromloweredgeofgarment.Omitthisstepincoats.

5Clipbackneckseamallowance;turnunderandpintobackneckline.Smoothandpinliningaroundarmholes;startatunderarm,andworktoshoulderseam.Turnunderbackshoulderseamallowance,andlapoverfront;pin.Bastebacknecklineandshoulderseams.

6Lapfrontedgesofliningoverfacingatseamline.Pinthroughfacingonly,beginningandending4″(10cm)abovehemline.Toeaseliningatbustlinecurve,placeworkovertailor’shamwhilepinningliningtofacing.Hand-baste.

7Hand-stitchliningaroundarmholeascant5/8″(1.5cm)fromtheedge.Looselyhand-stitchliningtoshoulderpadandsleeveseamallowance.Betweennotches,trimunderarmofliningtomatchunderarmofgarment.

8Tryonjacket,andcheckforsmoothfit.Ifliningistootight,itwillpullonjacket,creatingwrinklesandlines.Releasebastingasnecessarytoadjustlining,andbasteagain.Slipstitchallliningedgesinplacewithshort,invisiblestitches.Removebasting.

HowtoSetInaSleeveLining

1Easestitchliningsleevecapbetweennotches3/8″(1cm)andascant5/8″(1.5cm)fromrawedge.

2Slipliningintogarmentsleeve,wrongsidestogether.Turnunder1/4″(6mm)atunderarmbetweennotches,andpintoseamline.Turnunderseamallowanceattopofcap,andpintoarmholeseamline.

3Drawupthreadstoeaseliningtofitsleeve;turnunderliningedges.Pin.Fellstitchsleeveliningtoarmholelining,usingtwostrandsofwaxedthread.Donotcatchgarmentinthestitching.

HowtoHemaJacketorSleeveLining

1Pinliningtogarment3″(7.5cm)abovehem.Trimliningsoitis5/8″(1.5cm)longerthanfinishedjacket.Foldliningedgeunder5/8″(1.5cm).Pinfoldededgeofliningsoitjustcovershemedge.Slipstitch;removepins.

2Allowlininghemstodropdown,formingjumppleatforwearingeaseatloweredgeofjacketorsleeve.Slipstitchfrontedgeofliningtofacingatloweredge.Presshem.

Alternativemethod.Hemlining1″(2.5cm)shorterthanfinishedgarment.Slipstitchfrontedgeofliningtofacingatloweredge.Atseams,useswingtacks,takingthreeorfourstitches2″(5cm)longandcoveringwithblanketstitchesasforbartack,page44.

HowtoAttachaLining(machinemethod)

1Stitchandpressallseamsinliningbody.Easestitchliningsleevecapbetweennotches3/8″(1cm)andascant5/8″(1.5cm)fromrawedge.Followsteps2and3,pages106and107,forbackpleatandtucksordarts.

2Clipliningatneckline;machine-stitchliningtofrontandbackneckfacing.Beginandendstitching4″(10cm)abovehemline.Pressseamtowardlining.

3Attachliningsideseamstogarmentseamsfrominside,usinglooserunningstitches;endstitching4″(10cm)fromloweredge.Stitchliningatarmholes,step7,page107.Hemgarment,opposite.

4Joinloweredgeofliningsleevetoloweredgeofgarmentsleeve,rightsidestogether,with1/4″(6mm)seam.Usefreearmofmachine,ifitisavailable.

5Turngarmentrightsideout,andpullsleeveliningintosleeve.Setinsleevelining,steps2and3,opposite.Stitchseams;endstitchingatlining.

HowtoAttachaLiningwithaBackVent

1Constructlining,steps1to3,pages106to107.Oncuttinglines,cutawayleftbackventinlining.Reinforcecornerinleftvent,usingshortstitches;cliptostitching.

2Pressunderseamallowanceinleftvent;pressunder3/4″(2cm)onrightvent.Attachlining,steps4to7,page107.Pinliningtovents,ending4″(10cm)fromloweredge.

3Hemlining,formingjumppleat,andslipstitchventliningedgestoventasforfrontlining,steps1and2,page108.

HowtoMakeandInsertPipinginLining

1Cut1-3/4″(4.5cm)biasstripsofliningthelengthoffrontfacingsandbackneckfacing,ifincluded,plus3″(7.5cm).Foldstriparound3/32″cordingoryarn.Whilestretchingcording,stitchclosetocording,usingzipperfoot.

2Pinpipingtorightsideoffacing,withendofpipingatfinishededgeofjacket.Machine-basteonstitchingline,startingandendingasclosetothetopedgeofthehemaspossible.

3Machine-stitchfacingtolining,withrightsidestogetherandfacingsideup;crowdcording.Hemlining.Turnendofpipingundertomatchlengthoflining;slipstitchliningandpipinginplace.Pressseamallowancestowardlining.

4Garmentwithoutbackneckfacing.Pinliningtoarmholesandbackneckline.Turnunderbackshoulderseamallowance,andlapoverfront;baste.Slipstitchnecklineandshoulderseams.

InterliningaJacketorCoat

Incolderclimates,itmaybedesirabletopurchaseaninsulatedliningfabric(page25)ortoincludeanextralayeroffabricintheliningforanouterwearjacketorcoat.Becausetheextralayerliesbetweentheliningandthegarment,itiscalledaninterlining.Fortheinterlining,choosealightweightfabricwithinsulatingqualities,such

asoutingflannel,pajamaflannel,orlambswool.Thenappedsurfaceofflannelandtheopenweaveoflambswooltrapair.Theliningpatternpiecescanbeusedforcuttingtheinterlining.Sincejacketandcoatpatternsgenerallydonotallowforinterlinings,itis

importanttoadjustthefitofthegarmenttoallowextraroomandfittingease.Thisisanimportantconsiderationinfittedstyles,becausetheextralayeroffabricwilluseupsomeofthewearinganddesignease.Forthisreason,donotinterlinethesleevesunlesstheinterliningisthinorthesleevehasafullcut.Wheninterliningacoat,theinterliningistrimmedfromseamandhemallowancestoeliminatebulk.

HowtoInterlineaJacketorCoat

1Cutinterlining,usingliningfrontandbackpatternpieces.Foldundercenterbackeasepleatonpatternpiece;transfermarkings.

2Stitchcenterbackseamanddartsininterlining.Oreliminatecenterbackseamforstraightstylesbyplacingseamlineonfoldwhencuttingfabric.

3Completecenterbackpleatinlining,asinstep2,page106.Stitchdartsinlining.

4Smoothandpininterliningtoliningpieces;machine-baste1/2″(1.3cm)fromrawedges,withliningsideuptopreventslippage.

5Stitchseams;triminterliningclosetostitching.Pressseamsopen.Attachliningtogarment(pages106to109).Presshemline.

6Triminterliningtohemline;baste.Machine-stitchlininghem;removebasting.Finishhemasforalternativemethodonpage108.

PARTIALLYLINEDJACKETS

Apartiallylinedjacketiscoolertowearthanafullylinedone.Cutthepartialliningasonpage59,usingliningfabricfortheshapedbackpieceandextendingthefrontfacingtothesideseams.Finishexposedseamsandfacingandhemedgesinunlinedorpartiallylinedjacketstopreventraveling.Allow1″(2.5cm)seamallowanceswhencuttingthejackettomakeseamseasiertohandlewhenfinishing.Chooseafinishappropriatetotheweightofthefabric.AHongKongseamfinishisaqualityfinishinatailoredgarment,butitismoretime-consumingthanotherseamfinishes.Anedgestitchedseamfinishcanbestitchedonanystraight-stitchsewingmachine.Anoverlockedseamfinishsewnonasergeristheleastbulkyalternative.Iffittingchangesaremadeinatestgarmentbeforethegarmentiscut,finishgarmentseamallowancesbeforestitchingtheseamsbecauseitiseasiertohandlesinglelayersoffabric.

ThreeWaystoFinishSeams

Edgestitched.Stitch1/4″(6mm)fromrawedgeforlighttomediumweightfabrics.Turnunderedgeonstitchingline.Edgestitchclosetofold.

Overlocked.Overlocksingleseamallowancesonserger.Usedecorativethread,suchasshinyrayon,forspecialedgefinish.

HongKong.1Stitch1″(2.5cm)biasstriptoseamallowance1/8”(3mm)fromrawedge,stretchingtapeslightly.Pressbindingoverrawedgeasshown.

2Wrapbiastapearoundrawedgetotheunderside;stitchintheditchoftheseam.Trimexcesstape1/4″(6mm)fromstitching.

HowtoAttachaPartialLining

1Staystitchneckandshoulderedgesofbacklining;stitch1/4″(6mm)fromloweredge.Pressa1/4″(6mm)hemonloweredge,turningundertwice;topstitch.

2Finishseamoninneredgeoffrontfacing,trimmingrawedgeoffacingasneeded.(Finishededgesoffrontfacingandbackliningshouldmeet.)Machine-stitchsideseamoffrontfacingandliningback,rightsidestogether;pressseamtowardback.

3Clipnecklinesoitliesflat;turnunderseamallowancesonshoulderseamsandbackneckline.Pinliningatneckline,shoulders,andarmholes.Slipstitchnecklineandshoulders;bastearmholes.

4Stitchsideseamallowancesofliningandgarmenttogether,usinglong,looserunningstitches.Slipstitchloweredgeoffacingathemline.Attachandhemliningsleevesasonpage108.

TOPSTITCHINGTopstitchingisadecorativedetailthatalsoholdsthecollarandfacingflat.Thisstitchingshouldbedonebeforethebuttonsareattached.Topstitchingplaced1/4”(6mm)fromthefinishedouteredgeisstandardonblazersandsportcoats,butseveralrowsmaybeused.Onthickcoatingfabrics,stitchingfartherfromthefinishededgeisalsoappropriate.

Edgestitchingplacedclosetotheouteredgesofthegarmentisespeciallyattractiveonhard-surfacedfabrics,suchaslinenandwoolgabardine.Iftopstitchingoredgestitchingisusedontheouteredges,itisoftenrepeatedonpocketsorotherareas.Useaheavierthread,suchasbuttonholetwist,tomakestitchingmore

apparent.Trylengtheningthestitchforgreaterstitchdefinition.Topreventfrayingandskippedstitches,besuretouseaspecialtopstitchingneedleorasize16(100)regularmachineneedlewhensewingwithheavierthread.Whenbuttonholetwistisnotavailableintheappropriatecolor,threadonemachineneedlewithtwospoolsofall-purposethread.Testthestitchlength,thethread,andthedistancefromtheedge,usingasamplefromthesamefabricandinterfacinglayersasthoseinthegarment.Pressthegarment,usingaclapperontheedgestobetopstitchedtoflatten

themasmuchaspossiblebeforetopstitching.Tokeepthestitchingstraightandeven,usetheneedleplateguideortheedgeofthepresserfoot,ormarkstitchinglineswithtransparenttape.Whentopstitching,stitchslowly;eventhetinieststitchvariationwillshow.

HowtoTopstitchaJacketorCoat

1Begintopstitchingonrightsideoflapelatlowerendofrollline.Pivotatlapelpointandagainatcollarnotch.

2Pivot,andstitchinditchofseam(arrow).Shortenstitchesinditchtomakethemlessnoticeable.Pivot,andcontinuetotopstitcharoundcollarandremaininglapel.Endatlowerendofotherrollline.

3Topstitchremainderoffrontedgewithrightsideofgarmentup.Beginatlowerendofrollline,andstitchtoloweredgeofjacket.Pivotatendoffacing;attachtoedge.

4Pullthreadstofacingside.Threadtheendsintoneedle,andburybetweengarmentandfacinglayers.

BUTTONS&BUTTONHOLES

Beautifulbuttonsandexpertlysewnbuttonholesarethefinishingtouchesonafinelytailoredjacketorcoat.Usedcoveredsnapsoninsideareasthatwillshowwhenthegarmentiswornopen.

Buttonsontailoredgarmentsmusthaveashankthatliftsthebuttonawayfromthethicknessofthegarmentlayertopreventbuttonholestrain.Makeathreadshankforasew-throughbuttonasitisstitchedtothegarment.Ashankisnotnecessaryifthebuttonispurelydecorativesuchasinner,nonfunctioningbuttonsonadouble-breastedclosure.Boundbuttonholesandmachine-workedbuttonholesareinterchangeableon

tailoredjacketsandcoats.Boundbuttonholestaketimetoperfect.Makeseveraltestsamplestocheckthefinishedlength;andbeforeattemptingboundbuttonholesonthegarmentfront,masterthetechniqueinthefabricyouareusing.Incustomtailoring,makeboundbuttonholesinthegarmentfrontbefore

attachinghaircanvasinterfacing.Ifusingthefusiblemethodoftailoring,make

attachinghaircanvasinterfacing.Ifusingthefusiblemethodoftailoring,makeboundbuttonholesafterapplyingtheinterfacing.Makemachine-workedbuttonholesafterthegarmentiscompleted.

STANDARDSOFBOUNDBUTTONHOLES

Lengthofbuttonholeisatleast1″(2.5cm);lengthaccommodatesbuttoncomfortably.Buttonholesarealluniforminlength.Widthofbuttonholeisascant1/4″(6mm).Placementis1/8″(3mm)beyondthecenterfrontline,towardthefrontedgeofthegarment.Spacingbetweenbuttonholesiseven.

HowtoPreparetheGarmentFrontforBoundButtonholes

1Determinebuttonholelength.Addthebuttondiameterplusthicknessandanextra1/8″to1/4″(3to6mm)forease.Makeasamplebuttonholetotestbuttonfit.

2Markcenterandendsofeachbuttonholewithbastingincontrastingthread,creatingathreadladderongarmentfront.(Forfusiblemethod,applyinterfacingbeforemarking.)

3Pinkasmallovalpatchoflightweightfusibleinterfacingforcustomormachinemethod.Fusetowrongsideovereachbuttonholemarking.

HowtoMakeaBoundButtonhole

1Cuta21/2″(6.5cm)biassquareforeachbuttonhole.Tugandsteampresstoremoveallstretch.

2Centerandbastethebiassquareonrightsideofgarmentoverthebuttonholelocation.

3Markstitchinglinesonwrongside,1/8″(3mm)oneachsideofcenterline.

4Stitchonmarkedlines,using20stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Startandendstitchingexactlyatbuttonholemarkings.Leave4″(10cm)threadtails.

5Checkthatstitchinglinesare1/4″(6mm)apartandendexactlyatmarkings.Tiethreadtails,butdonotclip.Removecenterbasting,andpresssquareflat.

6Cutacrosscenterofsquare,beingcarefulnottocutgarment.

7Slashgarmentbetweenstitchinglines.Clipto,butnotthrough,corners.Applyliquidfraypreventertocutedges;testonscrapfirst.

8Presstophalfofsquaredownagainststitchingline;pressbottomhalfup.

9Turnsquaretowrongside;pushtrianglesatendstowrongside.Adjustlipstoequalwidth,fillingopening;press.

10Cordbuttonholelipswithyarn,ifdesired,byplacingyarnclosetopressedfolds.Cordingbuttonholesaddsstrengthandstabilitytolightweightfabrics.

11Tailor-bastelipstogether.Stitchintheditchonbothlongsidesofbuttonhole,usingasmallbackstitch.Ifbuttonholesarecorded,donotcatchyarninstitching.

12Turngarmentbackonitself;stitchthroughbaseoftriangleateachendofbuttonhole,usingashortstitch.Checkrightside.Ifnecessary,stitchseveraltimestosecuretriangle.

13Trimthethreadtails.Trimsquare,roundingoffthecorners.Presscompletedbuttonholesonpaddedsurface.

14Attachhaircanvasforcustomormachinemethod.Pin-markbuttonholeinfourcorners.Cutrectanglefromhaircanvas,andpullsquarethroughopening.Catchstitchtohaircanvas.

15Finishbackofbuttonholeafterfacingisattached.Bastefacingtogarmentaroundeachbuttonhole.Markopeningwithpins;slash.Turnunder;slipstitch,tuckingrawedgeofslitunderasyousew.

HowtoCordaMachine-workedButtonhole

1Makemachine-workedbuttonholesafterthegarmentiscompleted.Determinebuttonholelengthandmarkladder,steps1and2,page117,usingchalkorbasting.

2Cordwithbuttonholetwistplacedunderstitching.Leaveloopatoneendandtailsatother.Afterstitching,tugontailstohideloop.Threadtailsinneedle,andbringtowrongside;securestitchinginbartack.

HowtoMarktheButtonPlacementforSingle-breastedStyles

1Lineupfinishedfrontedges,facingsidestogether.Atloweredge,buttonholesideshouldbeslightlylongerthansidewithbuttons.Securewithpins.

2Insertpininbuttonholeopening1/8″(3mm)fromendclosesttoouteredge.Markbuttonplacementatpin,usingtailor’stackorchalk.Sewbuttonatmark(pages122and123).

HowtoMarktheButtonPlacementforDouble-breastedStyles

1Lapfronts,withcenterfrontlinesmatching.Atloweredge,overlapshouldbeslightlylongerthanunderlap.Securewithpins.

2Insertpininbuttonholeopening1/8″(3mm)fromendclosesttoouteredge.Carefullyliftbuttonholeawayfrompin;markplacementusingtailor’stackorchalk.Sewbuttonatmark(pages122and123).

3Usepatterntomarklocationsfornonfunctioningbutton,whichshouldlineupwithfunctioningbutton.

4Markbuttonholeandbuttonlocationoninsideofgarmentundernonfunctioningbutton.Stitchbuttonhole,thenbutton.Orfastenwithcoveredsnap(page123).

HowtoAttachaSew-throughButton

1Cut30″(76cm)strandofwaxedthread.Foldthreadinhalf,andinsertineyeofneedle(a).Orusea15″(38cm)singlestrandofwaxedbuttonholetwist(b).Securethreadwithsmallstitchatbuttonplacementmark.

2Bringneedleupthroughoneholeinbutton,andplaceatoothpickacrossbuttonbetweenholes.Takethreeorfourstitchesthroughholes,withstitchesparalleltobuttonholeopening.Bringneedleandthreadtorightsideunderbutton.

3Removetoothpick,andliftbuttonawayfromfabricsostitchesaretightagainstbutton.Windthreadaroundstitchesseveraltimestoformshank.Securethreadonrightsidewithseveralsmallstitchesclosetoshank.Clipthreadclosetostitches.

AttachingaButtonwithaShank

Securethreadwithasmallstitchatbuttonplacementmark.Stitchthroughshankseveraltimes,withshankparalleltobuttonholeopening.Securethreadonrightsidewithseveralsmallstitchesclosetoshank.Clipthreadclosetostitches.

ReinforceaButton

Reinforcebuttonsongarmentsthatwillreceivealotofwear.Onfacingside,positionasmall,flattwo-holeorfour-holebuttonunderthegarmentbutton.Stitchthroughbothbuttons;formashankundergarmentbutton.

HowtoCoverandAttachaSnap

1Cuttwoliningcirclesslightlylargerthansnap.Makesmallrunningstitchesaroundouteredge.Placesnapfacedownoncircle;drawupstitches.

2Securethreadwithsmallstitches.Snapcoveredsectionstogether;thiswillcutfabricandexposeballofsnap.Applyliquidfraypreventertorawedges.

3Positionballhalfofsnaponfacingsideofoverlapatdesiredlocation.Makeseveralstitchesthroughholes,usingtwostrandsofwaxedthread;donotcatchrightsideofgarmentinstitches.Securethreadwithsmallstitchesclosetosnap.

4Rubballofsnapwithchalk,andpressfirmlyagainstrightsideofunderlaptomarkpositionforsockethalf.Stitchinplaceasforballhalf,step3,exceptstitchthroughalllayersoffabric.

RESOURCES

Websites

USABanasch’s3380RedBankRoadCincinnati,OH45227513-731-20401-800-543-0355www.banaschs.com

ClotildePOBox7500BigSandy,TX75755-75001-800-545-4002www.clotilde.com

CuttingLineDesigns/CuttingCorners1667BarcelonaWayWinterPark,FL327891-877-734-5818www.fabriccollections.com

DenverFabrics2777WBelleviewAveLittleton,Colorado80123303-730-2777http://www.denverfabrics.com/

ExoticSilks1959LeghornSt.#BMountainView,CA94043650-965-77601-800-845-7455

www.exoticsilks.com

Greenberg&HammerInc.535EightAvenue,6thFloorNorthNewYork,NY10018-2446212-246-2835/212-236-2836212-236-2467/800-955-5135

HeirloomsForever3112CliffGookinBoulevardTupelo,MS388011-800-840-4275www.sews.com

Nancy’sNotions1-800-833-0690www.nancysnotions.com

PatternReviewwww.patternreview.com

SewTrue447West36thStreetNewYork,NY100181-800-739-8783http://www.sewtrue.com

TheSewingPlace4591LongleyLane,#18Reno,NV895021-775-853-2207http://www.thesewingplace.com

TheWoolenMillStore8550SEMcLoughlinBoulevardPortland,OR972221-866-865-9285

http://thewoolenmillstore.blogspot.com

TroyCorporation2701NorthNormandyAveChicago,IL607071-800-888-2400773-804-9600www.troy-corp.com

UniqueTechniques3840136thAvenue,NEBellevue,WA98005-1440425-885-5296800-557-5563www.uniquetechniques.com

VogueFabrics718-732MainStreetEvanston,IL60202847-864-9600http://www.voguefabricsstore.com

WAWAKTailoringSuppliesPOBox8589Endwell,NY13762-85891-800-654-2235www.wawak.com

UKSewEssentialBurleighHouse2BoxStreetWalsall,WestMidlandsWS12JRUnitedKingdom+441922722276

www.sewessential.co.uk

sewing-online.com9MallardRdVictoriaBusinessParkNetherfieldNottinghamNG42PEUnitedKingdom+44(0)1159874422www.sewing-online.com

ThomasMahon(Site&Blog)9-10SavileRow(Holland&Sherry)LondonW1S3PFUnitedKingdom+44(0)1228561700http://www.englishcut.com

CanadaAGreatNotion#108-19289LangleyByPassSurrey,BCV3S6K3,Canada#101-32526GeorgeFergusonWayAbbotsford,BCV2S6A,Canada1-800-309-2829;604-575-9023www.agreatnotion.com

DistinctiveSewingSupplies531VanguardCrescentOakville,ONL6L5G6,Canada1-877-739-2254http://www.distinctivesewing.com

JBSilks1-877-877-3069

1-800-269-5671www.jbsilks.com

Joanne’sCreativeNotions1-800-811-6611905-453-1805P.O.Box200718965ChinguacousyRd.Brampton,OntarioL6Y0L9,Canadahttp://joannescreativenotions.com/

Télio625DelauriersMontreal,QC,H4N1W8,Canada1-800-361-0375www.telio.com

TheBatikButik953KentwoodTerraceVictoria,BC,V8Y1A5,Canada1-866-658-2612250-658-2612www.batikbutik.com

AustraliaSewingSelectionsRoseThornbury,POBox7194DUBBONSW2830,Australia02688404030268840043www.sewingselections.com.au

Blogs

FehrTradehttp://www.fehrtrade.com/

Gertie’sBlogforBetterSewinghttp://www.blogforbettersewing.com

GigiSewshttp://behindtheseams.wordpress.com/

MadebyHandhttp://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/

MartinStallBespokehttp://www.martinstall.com/

PetiteRepublichttp://petiterepublic.wordpress.com/

ThomasMahon’sTailoringBloghttp://www.englishcut.com

TheSavileRowTailorhttp://www.thesavilerowtailor.co.uk/

SewChichttp://sewchic.blogspot.com/

INDEX

A

Acetatelinings,24

B

Backneckfacing,76-78Backpleat,58-59,106,111Backstay,construction,75cuttinginterfacing,55-56fabric,20patternadjustments,55sequencefortailoring,64shapingjacketback,74-75

Backvent,fit,49,51,53lining,59,110miteringandhemming,102

Bartacking,42,44Basting,42,45alsosee:unevenbasting

removingthreadmarks,41Beeswax,42Bemberg®rayon,24Bent-handleddressmaker’sshears,30Bevelingseams,33Biasstripforset-insleeves,96,98Blanketstitch,bartacking,44lininghem,108

Boundbuttonholes,14corded,118sequencefortailoring,64techniquesfor,116-119

Broadclothforbackstay,20

Buttonholetwist,115,122Buttonholes,116-121bound,14,103,116-19corded,118-119machine-worked,119placement,117,121sequencefortailoring,64

Buttons,11,26,116attaching,122-123placement,121reinforcing,123sequencefortailoring,64shank,122-123

C

Carrierstrips,shapingjacketfront,72Catchstitching,43,44buttonholes,119facingtointerfacing,103haircanvasinterfacing,70hems,101jacketfront,70,72liningbackpleat,106-107necklineseams,78staytape,70,72vents,102-103

Chalkformarking,31Clapper,35collarandlapels,82darts,40hems,101necklineseam,78straightseams,39tipsforusing,38topstitching,115

Claychalkcakes,31Coats,see:jackets

Coats,see:jacketsCollar,fit,50-51grading,32-33,82notch,65notchedtechniques,14,76-83parts,65point,65preparationtechniques,77-78pressing,82sequencefortailoring,64shawltechniques,84-85trimming,32,82turnoftheclothadjustment,79

Collarlessgarments,64,74-75Combinationtailoring,11,13,20Constructingthejacket,64Continuousspeedtailor’stacks,45Contouredpressingboard,35collarandlapels,82,85darts,40seams,38-39,78

Cordedbuttonholes,118-119Cottonorlinentape,27Creaser,pointer,35Curvedseam,pressingtechniques,39trimmingandgrading,32-33

Customtailoring,11-12boundbuttonholes,14,116-119hems,100-103interfacing,20liningattachment,106-108shapingjacketfront,68-71shawlcollar,84toolsandstitches,42-45undercollar,65-66

Cuttingsurface,30Cuttingtools,30

D

D

Darningcotton,31Darts,11fit,49,51plaidfabric,19pressingandshaping,40-41trimmingandgrading,32-33

Designease,48Diagonaldesignfabrics,16Dobbydesigninliningfabric,24Dolmansleeves,14Doubleweltpockets,90-93Double-breastedstyles,121Double-pointeddart,41Droppedshoulderstyles,96shoulderpads,99

Drycleaning,fabricpreparation60

E

Ease,wearinganddesign,48Easestitching,hems,100set-insleeves,96-97sleevelining,108

Edgefinishes,112-113Edgeimprints,37removalof,41

Edgetape,see:staytapeEdgestitchedseamfinish,112

Edgestitching,seamfinish,112singleweltpocket,94topstitching,115

Embroideryfloss,31speedtailor’stacks,44-45

Enclosedseams,grading,33pressingtechniques,38

F

Fabric,characteristics,16-17forpresscloths,35lining,24-25pocketing,27preparation,60-61preshrinking,60rollingforpadstitching,43selection,16-17testgarments,50underlining,20-21

Fallofcollar,65-67Featherstitching,42,44liningattachment,106-107

Fellstitching,42,45hems,101jacketfront,71-72singleweltpocket,94sleevelining,108staytape,70,72,75

Fibers,17,60haircanvas,20linings,24

Finishingtechniques,105-123Fit,48-53forwardshoulderthrust,52gapinglapel,53hemming,100liningattachment,107patternadjustment,54pin-fitting,48-49sleevewrinkles,52swaybackadjustment,53testgarment,48,50-53

Flannel,interlining,25,111outerwearlining,25

sleevehead,98Flappockets,19,86,90,95Floatyarns,lining,24Forwardshoulderthrust,adjustmentfor,52Fusibleinterfacing,20-23applying,23collarinterfacing,76cuttingjacketfront,56flappockets,95fusibleknit,20-21grainlinedirection,22,76,100hems,100-101ironingpress,35limitsof,21nonwoven,20-21patternadjustments,55-57preshrinking,22,60-61selectiontips,21-22sequencefortailoring,64shawlcollar,84steamshrinking,60-61testing,22undercollarshaping,65,68weft-insertion,20-21woven,21-21

Fusibleknitinterfacing,20-21collarinterfacing,76

Fusibletailoring,11-12,20buttonholes,116-119hems,101-103shapingjacketfront,73shapingundercollar,65,67shawlcollar,84

Fusibleweb,linedpockets,88

G

Goathairinterfacing,20Grading,32-33collarandlapelseamallowances,82

Grainline,straightening,60

H

Haircanvas,11-13,20-21buttonholes,119characteristics,20-21combinedtailoringmethods,13customtailoring,12,65-66,69-71,100-103goathair,20hems,100-103machinetailoring,13,67,72patternadjustmentsforinterfacing,55preshrinking,60sequencefortailoring,64set-insleeves,96shapingjacketfront,69-71shawlcollar,84undercollarshaping,65-67woolcontent,20

Ham,tailor’s,see:tailor’shamHandstitching,alsosee:padstitchinglining,107toolsandstitches,42-45

Hems,11,100-103customtailoring,100-101fit,48-49,51fusibletailoring,101interfacing,55jacketorsleevelining,108sequencefortailoring,64vents,102-103

Hemstitching,tailor’s,43,45,101Herringbonefabric,18-19

HongKongseamfinish,112-113Houndstoothfabric,18-19

I

Insulatedliningfabric,25,111Interfacing,20-23backstays,55-56fusible,21-23hems,55,100-103notchedcollar,76-83patternadjustments,55-57preshrinking,60-61sew-in,20-21shapingjacketfront,68-73shawlcollar,84typesof,20-22vents,102-103

Interliningjacketorcoat,111Ironsoleplateguard,23,35,39,61Ironingpress,35Ironingsystem,professional,35

J

Jackets,finishingtechniques,106-123fittingguidelines,51interfacingfronts,56interlining,111liningfabrics,24-25liningpocket,95matcheddesigns,18-19partiallylined,112-113sequencefortailoring,64shapingback,74-75shapingfront,68-73shoulderreinforcement,55,57,68,70,72-73

standardsoftailoring,11tailoringtechniques,64-103topstitching,15,114-115unlined,48

Jacquardweave,lining,24Jumppleat,backvent,110hem,108

L

Lambswool,interlining,111outerwearlining,25padding,20set-insleeves,96,98shoulderreinforcement,55sleevehead,27,98

Lapels,adjustmentforgaping,53determiningrollline,51fit,50-51grading,32-33pin-fitting,49pressing,82shaping,68-73trimming,32,82

Lining,11,106-113advantagesof,15,24,106attaching,106-110backvent,110color,24-25combinationtailoring,13customtailoring,12doubleweltpockets,93fabricselection,24-25fusibletailoring,12interlining,111machinetailoring,13outerwear,25

partiallinings,58-59,112-113patchpocket,86,88-89patternpreparation,58-59pipinginsertion,110preparationfor,103sequencefortailoring,64weight,24weltpockets,91,93-95

M

Machinetailoring,11,13,20lining,109shapingjacketfront,72shawlcollar,84undercollar,65,67

Machine-workedbuttonholes,116,119Marking,toolsfor,31Matcheddesigns,18-19Mitering,backvent,100-102sleevevent,54,100,103

Muslin,backstay,20testgarment,50

N

Nappedfabrics,raising,41Neckfacings,notchedcollartailoring,76-77trimmingandgrading,33

Necklineseams,tackingseam,83trimmingandpressing,78

Needleholes,removing,41Needles,handwork,42padstitching,43topstitching,115

Nonwovenfusibleinterfacing,21

Notchedcollartailoring,64preparingcollarandfacing,77-78tackingnecklineseam,83techniques,76-83trimmingandpressing,82turnofthecloth,79uppercollar/facingtoundercollar/garment,80-81Notches,33,39

Notions,26-27

O

Outerwearlining,25Overlockedseamfinish,112Overpressing,37correctingpressingerrors,41paperstripsasprotection,40

P

Padding,lambswoolfor,20Padstitching,11characteristicsandtechniques,42-43customtailoring,12,65-66,70machinetailoring,13,67shapingjacketfront,69-70undercollarshaping,65-66

Partiallinings,58-59attaching,112-113sequencefortailoring,64

Patchpockets,86-89attachingbyhand,89attachingbymachine,87-89liningfabric,27positioning,19,51,87unlined,86

Patterns,adjustments,54-59

fittingtechniques,48-49interfacingadjustments,55-57interlining,111lining,58-59partiallining,58-59plaidsandstripes,18-19preparation,54selectionandstyles,14-15shoulderpads,26unlinedjackets,59

Pens,marking,31Permanentunevenbasting,43,71,100,102Pin-fitting,advantagesof,48techniques,49

Pinkingshears,31Pins,31Piping,106,110Placementtipsforpatterns,18-19Plaids,lining,25tailoringwith,16,18-19

Pleatsforlining,58-59,106,111Pockets,11fabric,27flap,86,90lining,88-95patch,86-89positioning,19,51,87sequencefortailoring,64tailoringtechniques,14,86-95templatesfor,51,87-88unlinedcurved,86welt,86,90-95

Pointpresser,35enclosedseams,38

Pointerandcreaser,35Polyester,lining,24twilltape,27

Preshrinking,22,60-61Presscloth,35Pressingboard,contoured,see:contouredpressingboardPressingboard,tailor’s,35Pressingmitt,35Pressingtechniquescollarandlapels,82correctingerrors,41curvedseam,39darts,40-41enclosedseam,38equipmentfor,34-35fusibleinterfacing,23necklineseams,78overpressing,37,41straightseam,39techniques,36-41topstitching,115underpressing,37

Professionalironingsystem,35

R

Raglansleeve,14sequencefortailoring,64shoulderpads,26,99staysfor55,57

Rayon,blendsforlinings,24haircanvas,20

Reinforcement,shoulder,see:shoulderreinforcementRollline,collarandlapelseamallowances,82crisp,73customtaping,12,71lapel,50-51machinetaping,12-13,72padstitching,43shapingjacketfront,68-73

soft,73steaming,71,73testgarment,50-51topstitching,115undercollarshaping,65-67

Rotarycutterandmat,31Ruler,see-through,31,43

S

Satinweaves,lining,24Scissors,duck-billedappliqué,31tailor’spoints,31

Seamallowances,addingcenterbackseamallowance,54jacketconstruction,64notching,33patternadjustments,54trimmingandgrading,32-33

Seamroll,35,39Seams,11beveling,33curved,39enclosed,38plaidandstripedfabrics,18-19pressingtechniques,36-39straight,39trimmingandgrading,32-33

See-throughruler,31Sequenceforjackettailoring,64Set-insleeves,15biasstrip,96-98easestitching,96-97lining,108sequencefortailoring,64shoulderpads,26,99

Sew-ininterfacing,20-21cuttingjacketfront,56

testing,21Sew-throughbuttons,122Shankbuttons,116,122-123Shawlcollar,14,84-85sequencefortailoring,64

Shears,bent-handleddressmaker’s,30pinking,31

Shine,removing,41Shoulderfit,48,51-52Shoulderpads,26,49droppedshoulders,26,99patternsformaking,26raglan,26,99sequencefortailoring,64set-insleeves,26,99

Shoulderreinforcement,cuttinginterfacing,55-57shapingjacketfront,68-70,72-73

Shoulderseam,74-75sequencefortailoring,64

Sideseams,pin-fitting,49sequencefortailoring,64

Silkthread,collarandlapel,82handwork,42

Singleweltpockets,90,94Single-breastedstyles,121Sleeveboard,35Sleevehead,27set-insleeves,96,98techniquefor,98

Sleeves,11addingvents,54adjustmentforwrinkles,52dolmanorraglanstyles,14fit,50-51interlining,111liningattachment,108-109liningpattern,59

pin-fitting,49sequencefortailoring,64sleevehead,27,96,98stays,55,57tailoringtechniques,96-99vents,15,103wrinkles,52

Slipstitching,42,44buttonholes,119hems,108liningattachment,107,110,113pockets,88-89

Snaps,coveringandattaching,123Speedtailor’stacks,43,44-45Standofcollar,65Standardsoftailoring,11Staytape,27preshrinking,60shapingjacketfront,68,70-73shoulderseams,74-75

Stays,raglansleeve,57Staystitching,facing,77,85liningattachment,106shawlcollartailoring,85testgarments,50

Steamiron,35Steampressing,doublewelts,92lapelshaping,71,73undercollarshaping,66

Steamshrinking,60-61Stitches,handwork,42-45Straightseams,pressingtechniques,39Stripes,linings,25tailoringwith,16,18-19

Swaybackadjustment,49,53Swingtack,lininghem,108Syntheticsforlinings,24

T

Tacking,necklineseam,83Tailorbasting,42,45boundbuttonholes,118doubleweltpockets,92necklineseam,83shapingjacketfront,70

Tailor’schalk,31Tailor’sham,35curvedseams,39,82,85darts,40-41,69frontshaping,69pocketpositioning,87set-insleeves,97shoulderseams,75undercollarshaping,65-66

Tailor’shemstitching,43,45,101Tailor’spoints,31Tailor’spressingboard,35Tailor’stacks,jacketconstruction,64speedtacks,42,44-45

Tape,preshrinking,60staytape,27tailoringmethods,12-13

Testgarments,50-54advantagesof,19,48

Thimble,42Thread,contrasting,91silk,42,82

Tools,cuttingandmarking,31forhandwork,42

Toothpickforbuttonattachment,122Topstitching,15,115Tracingwheel,31Trimming,32-33collarandlapels,82

interliningseams,111necklineseams,78scissors,31

Turnofthecloth,79Tweezers,42,81Twillweaveforlining,24

U

Undercollar,customshaping,66fusedshaping,67machineshaping,67notchedcollartailoring,78patternadjustment,54sequencefortailoring,64shaping,65-67uppercollar/facingunitand,80-81

Underlining,20-21Underpressing,37Unevenbasting,43,45hems,101permanent,42,45,71,101-102shapingjacketfront,71unlinedjackets,48,59

unlinedpatchpockets,87

V

Vents,addingtosleeve,54lining,59,110miteringandhemming,100,102-103sequencefortailoring,64tailoringstyles,15testgarment,51

Vinegar,removingshineonfabric,41

W

W

Warpknitstaytape,27Waxedchalkcakes,31Wearingease,48Weft-insertionfusibleinterfacing,21collarinterfacing,76hems,100patternadjustments,55

Weltpockets,14,51,86,90-95Widedarts,pressingtechniques,41Wovenfusibleinterfacing,21

Copyright©2011CreativePublishinginternational,Inc.

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisworkcoveredbythecopyrightshereonmaybereproducedorusedinanyformorbyanymeans—graphic,electronic,ormechanical,includingphotocopying,recording,tapingofinformationonstorageandretrievalsystems—withoutthewrittenpermissionofthepublisher.

Duetodifferingconditions,materials,andskilllevels,thepublisherandvariousmanufacturersdisclaimanyliabilityforunsatisfactoryresultsorinjuryduetoimproperuseoftools,materials,orinformationinthispublication.

FirstpublishedintheUnitedStatesofAmericabyCreativePublishinginternational,Inc.,amemberofQuaysidePublishingGroup400FirstAvenueNorthSuite300Minneapolis,MN554011-800-328-3895www.creativepub.comorwww.qbookshop.com

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ISBN-13:978-1-58923-609-7ISBN-10:1-58923-609-2

ISBN-10:1-58923-609-2

10987654321

Digitaledition:978-1-61060191-7

Softcoveredition:978-1-58923-6-097

LibraryofCongressCataloginginPublicationdatapreviouslycatalogedas:Tailoring:theclassicguidetosewingtheperfectjacket/bytheeditorsofCreativePublishingInternational.p.cm.ISBN1-58923-230-5(softcover)1.Jackets.2.Tailoring(Women’s)I.CreativePublishingInternational.TT535.T372005646.4’3304-dc222005006397

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AcknowledgmentsPhotosonpages10,18,74,and120courtesyofTheMcCallPatternCompany.AllpatternsaresubjecttoavailabilityandarecopyrightedbytheMcCallPatternCompany.