the magic of offal in chef mag
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Release pure intensity
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MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTSA LIST OF THE UK AND IRELAND’S MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS.
THREE STAR ★★★
LONDONAlain Ducasseat the DorchesterMayfair, LondonJocelyn Herland 020 7629 8866 www.alainducasse-dorchester.com Gordon Ramsay Chelsea, London Clare Smyth 020 7352 4441 www.gordonramsay.com/royalhospitalroad
ENGLANDFat Duck Bray-on-Thames, Berkshire Heston Blumenthal 01628 580333 www.thefatduck.co.ukThe Waterside Inn Bray-on-Thames, Berkshire Alain Roux & Fabrice Uhryn 01628 620691 www.waterside-inn.co.uk
TWO STAR ★★LONDON
Darroze at The Connaught Mayfair, London Hélène Darroze 020 7107 8880 www.the-connaught.co.uk/ mayfair-restaurants-bars Dinner by Heston BlumenthalKnightsbridge, LondonAshley Palmer-Watts020 7201 3833 www.dinnerbyheston.com GreenhouseMayfair, London Arnaud Bignon020 7499 3331www.greenhouserestaurant.co.ukHibiscus Mayfair, London Claude Bosi 020 7629 2999 www.hibiscusrestaurant.co.uk Le Gavroche Mayfair, London Michel Roux Jr 020 7408 0881 www.le-gavroche.co.uk Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley Belgravia, London Marcus Wareing 020 7235 1200 www.marcus-wareing.com Sketch (The Lecture Room & Library) Mayfair, London Pierre Gagnaire 020 7659 4500 www.sketch.uk.com The Greenhouse Mayfair, London Arnaud Bignon 020 7499 3331 www.greenhouserestaurant.com The Ledbury Notting Hill, London Brett Graham 020 7791 9191 www.theledbury.com The Square Mayfair, London Phil Howard 020 7495 7100 www.squarerestaurant.com
ENGLANDMidsummer House Cambridge, Cambridgeshire Daniel Clifford 01223 369299 www.midsummerhouse.co.uk Gidleigh Park Chagford, Devon Michael Caines 01647 432367 www.gidleigh.com Le Champignon Sauvage Cheltenham, Gloucestershire David Everitt-Matthias 01242 573449 www.lechampignonsauvage.co.uk Whatley Manor Malmesbury, Wiltshire Martin Burge 01666 822888 www.whatleymanor.com Le Manoir aux Quat’Sainsons Great Milton, Oxfordshire Gary Jones 01844 278881 www.manoir.com Restaurant Nathan Outlaw Rock, Cornwall Nathan Outlaw 01208 862737 www.nathan-outlaw.com/nathan-outlaw-restaurant Restaurant Sat Bains Nottingham, Nottinghamshire Sat Bains 0115 986 6566 www.restaurantsatbains.com The Hand and Flowers Marlow, Buckinghamshire Tom Kerridge 01628 482 277www.thehandandflowers.co.ukL’enclumeCartmel, CumbriaSimon Rogan015395 36362www.lenclume.co.ukMichael
Wignall at The LatymerBagshot, SurreyMichael Wignall01276 486150 www.pennyhillpark.co.uk/ EXCLUSIVE_HOTELS/eating_and_drinking/the_latymer.aspx
SCOTLANDAndrew Fairlie at GleneaglesAuchterarder, Perth & KinrossAndrew Fairlie01764 694267www.gleneagles.com
EIREPatrick GuilbaudDublinGuillaume Lebrun01 6764192 www.restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie
ONE STAR ★LONDON
Alyn Williams at The WestburyMayfair, LondonAlyn Williams020 7078 9579www.alynwilliams.co.ukAmayaBelgravia, London Karunesh Khanna020 7724 2525www.amaya.bizAmetsa with Arzak Instruction at Halkin HotelChelsea, LondonElena Arzak020 7333 1000www.comohotels.comAngler at South Place HotelFinsbury, LondonTony Fleming020 3215 126www.southplacehotel.comArbutusSoho, LondonAnthony Demetre020 7734 4545www.arbutusrestaurant.co.ukBarrafinaSoho, LondonNieves Barragán Mohacho020 7813 8016www.barafina.co.ukBenaresMayfair, London Atul Kochhar020 7629 8886 www.benaresrestaurant.comBrasserie ChavotMayfair, LondonEric Chavot020 7183 6425www.brasseriechavot.comChez BruceWandsworth, LondonBruce Poole 020 8672 0114www.chezbruce.co.ukCity SocialCity of London, LondonJason Atherton 020 7877 7703www.citysociallondon.comClub GasconCity of LondonPascal Aussignac020 7796 0600www.clubgascon.comDabbousFitzrovia, LondonOllie Dabbous020 7323 1544www.dabbous.co.ukFera at Claridge’sMayfair, LondonSimon Rogan020 7107 8888www.feraatclaridges.co.ukGalvin at WindowsMayfair, LondonAndré Garrett020 7208 4021www.galvinatwindows.comGalvin La ChapelleCity of LondonJeff Galvin020 7299 0400www.galvinrestaurants.comGymkhanaMayfair, LondonKaram Sethi020 3011 5900www.hakkasan.comHakkasanBloomsbury, LondonTong Chee Hwee020 7927 7000www.hakkasan.comHakkasan Hanway PlaceMayfair, LondonTong Chee Hwee020 7927 7000www.hakkasan.comHedoneChiswick, LondonMikael Jonsson020 8747 0377 www.hedonerestaurant.comHKKShoreditch, LondonTong Chee Hwee020 3535 1888www.hkklondon.comKaiMayfair, London Alex Chow 020 7493 8988 www.kaimayfair.co.uk
Kitchen Table at BubbledogsBloomsbury, LondonJames Knappett020 7637 7770 www.kitchentablelondon.co.ukKitchen W8Chelsea, LondonMark Kempson020 7937 0120 www.kitchenw8.comL’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Covent Garden,London Oliver Limousin 020 7010 8600 www.joelrobuchon.co.uk/L’Atelier L’autre PiedMayfair, LondonAndy McFadden020 7486 9696 www.lautrepied.co.ukLa TrompeteChiswick, LondonAnthony Boyd020 8747 1836 www.latrompette.co.ukLaunceston PlaceKensington, LondonTimothy Allen 020 7937 6912 www.launcestonplace-restaurant.co.ukLimaRegent’s Park & Marylebone, LondonRobert Ortiz0203 002 2640www.limalondon.comLocanda Locatelli Marylebone, London Giorgio Locatelli 020 7935 9088 www.locandalocatelli.comMazeMayfair, London Tristin Farmer020 7107 0000www.gordonramsay.com/mazeMuranoMayfair, LondonAngela Hartnett020 7495 1127www.muranolondon.comOutlaw’s at the CapitalChelsea, LondonNathan Outlaw020 7591 1202www.capitalhotel.co.ukPetrus Belgravia, LondonSean Burbidge 020 7592 1609 www.gordonramsay.com/petrusPied a Terre Fitzrovia, LondonMarcus Eaves020 7636 1178www.pied-a-terre.co.ukPollen Street SocialMayfair, LondonJason Atherton020 7290 7600 www.pollenstreetsocial.com Quilon Victoria, LondonSriram Aylur 020 7821 1899 www.quilon.co.uk RasoiChelsea, London Vineet Bhatia 020 7225 1881 www.rasoirestaurant.co.uk Seven Place Park at St James’ Hotel and Club St James, LondonWilliam Drabble020 7316 1600 www.stjameshotelandclub.com Social Eating HouseSoho, LondonJason Atherton020 7993 3251www.socialeatinghouse.comSt JohnClerkenwell, LondonChris Gillard020 3301 8069 www.stjohnrestaurant.comSt John HotelSoho, LondonTom Harris020 3301 8020 www.stjohnrestaurant.comStoryBermondsey, LondonTom Sellers020 7183 2117www.restaurantstory.co.ukTamarindMayfair, LondonAlfred Prasad020 7629 3561 www.tamarindrestaurant.com TextureMarylebone, LondonAgnar Sverrisson 020 7224 0028 www.texture-restaurant.co.ukThe Clove ClubShoreditch, LondonIsaac McHale 020 7729 6496 www.thecloveclub.comThe Harwood ArmsFulham, LondonBarry Fitzgerald 020 7386 1847 www.harwoodarms.comThe River Café Hammersmith, LondonRose Gray 020 7386 4200www.rivercafe.co.ukTom Aikens Restaurant Chelsea, LondonTom Aikens 020 7584 2003 www.tomaikens.co.uk
TrishnaMarylebone, LondonKaram Sethi 020 7935 5624 www.trishnalondon.com UmuMayfair, LondonYoshinori Ishii 020 7499 8881 www.umurestaurant.com W1 RestaurantMarylebone, LondonPaul Welburn 020 7616 5930 www.guoman.comWild Honey Mayfair, London Anthony Demetre 020 7758 9160 www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.ukYauatcha Soho, London Cheong Wah Soon 020 7494 8888 www.yauatcha.com
ENGLAND5 North Street Winchcombe, Gloucestershire Marcus Ashenford 01242 604566 www.5northstreetrestaurant.co.uk Adam’sBirminghamAdam Stokes0121 643 3745www.adamsrestaurant.co.ukAdam Simmonds at Danesfield House Marlow, Buckinghamshire Adam Simmonds 01628 891881 www.danesfieldhouse.co.uk Alimentum Cambridge, Cambridgeshire Mark Poynton 01223 413000 www.restaurantalimentum.co.ukApicius Cranbrook, Kent Tim Johnson 01580 7146666 www.restaurant-apicius.co.ukBath PrioryBath, Somerset Sam Moody 01225 331922 www.thebathpriory.co.uk Box Tree Ilkley, West Yorkshire Simon Gueller 01943 608484 www.theboxtree.co.uk Butchers ArmsEldersfield, Gloucestershire James Winter 01452 840381 www.thebutchersarms.netBybrookManor House Hotel & Golf Club, Castle Coombe, Wiltshire Richard Davies 01249 782206 www.manorhouse.co.uk CasamiaWestbury-on-Trym, Somerset Jonray & Peter Sanchez 0117 9592884 www.casamiarestaurant.co.ukChapter One Farnborough Common, Kent Andrew Mcleish 01689 854848 www.chaptersrestaurants.comCurlewBodiam, East Sussex Andrew Scott 01580 861394 www.thecurlewrestaurant.co.ukDrakesRipley, Surrey Steve Drake 01483 224777 www.drakesrestaurant.co.uk Driftwood Portscatho, Cornwall Chris Eden 01872 580644 www.driftwoodhotel.co.uk Fischer’s at Baslow Hall Baslow, Derbyshire Rupert Rowley 01246 583259 www.fischers-baslowhall.co.ukFraichePrenton, Merseyside Mark Wilkinson 0151 6522914 www.restaurantfraiche.com Hambleton Hall Oakham, Rutland Aaron Patterson 01572 756991 www.hambletonhall.com Hinds Head Bray, Berkshire Kevin Love 01628 626151 www.hindsheadbray.com Holbeck Ghyll Windermere, West Yorkshire David McLaughlin 01539 432375 www.holbeckghyll.com JSW Petersfield, Hampshire Jake Saul Watkins 01730 262030 www.jswrestaurant.com L’Ortolan Shinfield, Berkshire Nick Chappell 0118 9888500 www.lortolan.com
Lords of the Manor Bourton-on-the-Water, Gloucestershire 01451 820243 www.lordsofthemanor.com Manor House Hotel & Golf Club Castle Coombe, Wiltshire Richard Davies 01249 782206 www.manorhouse.co.uk Morston Hall Morston, Norfolk Galton Blackiston 01263 741041 www.morstonhall.com Mr Underhill’s at Dinham WeirDinham, Shropshire Chris Bradley 01584 874431 www.mr-underhills.co.uk NorthcoteBlackburn, Lancashire Nigel Haworth 01254 240555 www.northcote.com Ockenden Manor Haywards Heath, Sussex Stephen Crane 01444 416111 www.hshotels.co.uk/ockenden-manor-hotel-and-spa/diningOld Vicarage Ridgeway Village, South Yorkshire Tessa Bramley 0114 2475814 www.theoldvicarage.co.uk Outlaw’s Fish KitchenPort Isaac, Cornwall Nathan Outlaw 01208 881183 www.outlaws.co.uk Paris House Woburn, Bedfordshire Phil Fanning 01525 290692 www.parishouse.co.uk Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 Padstow, Cornwall Paul Ainsworth 01841 532093 www.number6inpadstow.co.ukPony & Trap Chew Magna, Somerset Josh Eggleton 01275 332627 www.theponyandtrap.co.uk Purnell’s Birmingham, West Midlands Glynn Purnell 0121 212 9799 www.purnellsrestaurant.com Raby Hunt Summerhouse, County Durham James Close 01325 374237 www.rabyhuntrestaurant.co.ukRed Lion Freehouse East Chisenbury, Wiltshire Guy Manning 01980 671124 www.redlionfreehouse.com Restaurant Tristan Horsham, West Sussex Tristan Mason 01403 255 688 www.restauranttristan.co.ukRoom in the Elephant Torquay, Devon Simon Hulstone 01803 200044 www.elephantrestaurant.co.ukSienna Dorchester, Dorset Russell Brown 01305 250022 www.siennarestaurant.co.uk Simon Radley at the Chester Grosvenor Chester, Cheshire Simon Radley 01244 324024 www.chestergrosvenor.com/simon-radley-restaurant Simpsons Edgbaston, West Midlands Luke Tipping 0121 4543434 www.simpsonsrestaurant.co.ukSir Charles Napier Chinnor, Oxfordshire Chris Godfrey 01494 483011 www.sircharlesnapier.co.uk Thackeray’s Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent Richard Phillips 01892 511921 www.thackerays-restaurant.co.ukThe Black Rat Winchester, Hampshire Jamie Stapleton-Burns 01962 844465 www.theblackrat.co.uk The Black Swan Oldstead, North Yorkshire Adam Jackson 01347 868387 www.blackswanoldstead.co.ukThe Cross at KenilworthKenilworth Adam Bennett 01926 853840 www.thecrosskenilworth.co.ukThe GlasshouseRichmond-upon-Thames, Surrey Daniel Mertl 020 8940 6777 www.glasshouserestaurant.co.ukThe Harrow at Little Bedwyn Marlborough, Wiltshire Roger Jones 01672 870871 www.theharrowatlittlebedwyn.com
The Mason Arms South Molton, Devon Mark Dodson 01398 341231 www.masonsarmsdevon.co.ukThe NeptuneHunstanton, Norfolk Kevin Mangeolles 0844 2880673 www.theneptune.co.uk The Nut Tree Murcott, Oxfordshire Mike North 01865 331253 www.nuttreeinn.co.uk The Park (at Lucknam Park Hotel) Chippenham, Wiltshire Hywel Jones 01225 742777 www.lucknampark.co.uk The Pass Lower Beeding, Sussex Matt Gillan 01403 891711 www.southlodgehotel.co.uk/EXCLUSIVE.../the_pass The Pipe & Glass Inn Beverley, East Yorkshire James Mackenzie 01430 810 246 www.pipeandglass.co.uk The Royal Oak Littlefield Green, Berkshire Dom Chapman 01628 620 541 www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.comThe SamlingAmbleside, CumbriaIan Swainson015394 31922www.thesamlinghotel.co.ukThe Sportsman Seasalter, Kent Stephen Harris 01227 273370 www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.ukThe Stagg InnKington, Herefordshire Steve Reynolds 01544 230221 www.thestagg.co.uk The Star InnHarome, North Yorkshire Andrew Pern 01439 770397 www.thestaratharome.co.uk The Terrace (at the Montagu Arms) Beaulieu, Hampshire Matthew Tomkinson 01590 612324 www.montaguarmshotel.co.uk/terrace_restaurant The Treby Arms Plympton, Devon Anton Piotrowski 01752 837363 www.thetrebyarms.co.ukThe West House Biddenden, Kent Graham Garrett 01580 291341 www.thewesthouserestaurant.co.ukThe Yorke Arms Harrogate, North Yorkshire Frances Atkins 01423 755243 www.yorke-arms.co.uk Turners Birmingham, West Midlands Richard Turner 0121 4264440 www.turnersrestaurantbirmingham.co.ukWilksRedland, BristolJames Wilkins0117 9737 999www.wilksrestaurant.co.uk
JERSEYOcean House at Atlantic Isle of Jersey Mark Jordan01534 744101 www.theatlantichotel.comBohemia (at The Club Hotel & Spa) Isle of Jersey Steve Smith 01534 876500 www.bohemiajersey.comOrmer by Shaun RankinIsle of Jersey01534 725100www.ormerjersey.comTassili at the Grand Hotel Isle of Jersey Richard Allen 01534 722301 www.grandjersey.com/grand-jersey/tassili
SCOTLAND21212 Edinburgh Paul Kitching 0131 523 1030 www.21212restaurant.co.uk Boath House Auldearn, NairnCharlie Lockley 01667 454896 www.boath-house.com Braidwoods Dalry, AyrshireNicola Braidwood 01294 833 544 www.braidwoods.co.uk Castle TerraceEdinburgh Dominic Jack 0131 229 1222 www.castleterracerestaurant.com
Glenapp Castle Ballantrae, Ayrshire Adam Stokes 0146583 1212 www.glenappcastle.com Isle of Eriska Argyll, ScotlandRoss Stovold01631 720371 www.eriska-hotel.co.uk Inverlochy Castle Torlundy, Fort William Philip Carnegie 01397 702177 www.inverlochycastlehotel.com Kinlock LodgeIsle of Skye Marcello Tully 01471 833333www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk Knockinaam Lodge Portpatrick, Stranraer Tony Pierce 01776 810471 www.knockinaamlodge.com Martin WishartEdinburgh Martin Wishart 0131 553 3557 www.martin-wishart.co.uk/restaurant-martin-wishart/homeMartin Wishart at Loch LomondLoch Lomond, Dunbartonshire Graeme Cheevers 01389 722 504 www.martin-wishart.co.uk Number One (at The Balmoral Hotel) Edinburgh Jeff Bland 0131 556 2414 www.thebalmoralhotel.com/dining Sangster’s Elie, Fife Bruce Sangster 01333 331001 www.sangsters.co.uk The Albannach Lochinver, Lairg Colin Craig & Lesley Crosfield 01571 844 407 www.thealbannach.co.uk The Kitchin Edinburgh Tom Kitchin 0131 555 1755 www.thekitchin.com The Peat Inn St Andrews, Fife Geoffrey Smeddle 01334 840206 www.thepeatinn.co.ukThe Three Chimneys Colbost, Isle of Skye Michael Smith 01470 511258www.threechimneys.co.uk
WALESCrown at Whitebrook Whitebrook, Monmouth Chris Harrod 01600 860254www.crownatwhitebrook.co.uk The Checkers Montgomery, Powys Stéphane Borie 01686 669 822www.thecheckersmontgomery.co.uk The Walnut TreeAbergavenny, Monmouthshire Shaun Hill 01873 852797www.thewalnuttreeinn.comTyddyn Llan Corwen, Clwyd Bryan Webb 01490 440 264 www.tyddynllan.co.ukYnyshir Hall Machynlleth, Powys Gareth Ward 01654 781209 www.ynyshirhall.co.uk
EIREAniar Galway Enda McEvoy 09 1535947 www.aniarrestaurant.ie Bon Appetit Malahide, Dublin Oliver Dunne01 8450314 www.bonappetit.ie CampagneKilkennyGarrett Byrne056 777 2858www.campagne.ieChapter One Dublin Ross Lewis 01 8732266 www.chapteronerestaurant.com House (at Cliff House Hotel)Ardmore, Waterford Martijn Kajuiter 02 487800 www.thecliffhousehotel.com L’Ecrivain DublinDerry Clarke 01 6611919 www.lecrivain.com Lady Helen at Mount Juliet HotelThomastown, KilkennyCormac Rowe056 777 3000www.mountjuliet.ieThornton’s (at The Fitzwilliam Hotel) Dublin Kevin Thornton 01 4787008 www.fitzwilliamhotel.com
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Moderated by an editorial board consisting of a team of well-known and respected chefs, Chef Magazine provides original, accurate and up to date information that is guaranteed to be informative and authoritative. With in-depth interviews with some of the most highly regarded chefs in the industry, discussions on industry topics, reviews of kitchen equipment and a lot more, Chef Magazine is an essential tool in any professional kitchen.
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WORLD team
GUEST chefs
JONATHAN CARTWRIGHTAMERICA
Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef,
Jonathan, is a native of northern
England and began cooking when
he was 15 years old. Since then,
his mastery of the culinary arts has
taken him to some of the world’s
finest Relais & Châteaux properties
including Blantyre in Lenox, Massachusetts, the Horned
Dorset Primavera in Rincon, Puerto Rico and the Hotel
Bareiss in the Black Forest region of Germany.
KIRSTEN TIBBALLSAUSTRALASIA
One of Australia’s most respected
and talented chocolate and pastry
chefs and founder of the Savour
Chocolate and Patisserie School.
Kirsten won the 2004 World Pastry
Championships for her hand made
chocolates and was also awarded
a gold medal for her chocolates in the Pastry Olympics
in Germany that same year. In Australia, Kirsten has also
won numerous awards and competitions and regularly
travels the world to participate as a judge in chocolate
and patisserie events, teach others her skills and gather
new ideas and techniques to bring back to use at her
school in Melbourne.
offering their own experience and expert opinions
GARY RHODES OBEEUROPE & UAE
His legendary dedication to the
craft and relentless pursuit of
perfection has placed him firmly
at the forefront of today’s culinary
world. Chef, restaurateur, celebrity
and author; his distinguished
career, tireless attention to detail
and unique mastery of the ‘Great British Classics’ truly
sets him apart. A history of stunning restaurants has
won him a constellation of Michelin stars, including
Rhodes 24 and Rhodes W1, and he is consistently
revered by his peers as truly ‘The Chef’s Chef’.
GALTON BLACKISTONGalton went on to work with
John Tovey at Miller Howe
in the Lake District where he
essentially did his training. He
stayed for 10 years, becoming
Head Chef, but also worked for
a time at Le Pierre in New York
and The Mount Nelson in Cape
Town.
He bought Morston Hall in
1992 where he has a Michelin
star in 1999 and has 3 rosettes.
He is also a fellow of the Craft
Guild of Chefs. Galton has also
recently invested in Number
1 at Cromer, a fish and chip
restaurant and takeaway.
SAM MOODYSam Moody is the Head Chef
of the only Michelin-starred
restaurant in Bath. A protégé
of Michael Caines MBE, Sam
has worked exclusively for the
Andrew Brownsword Hotels
‘Gidleigh Collection’ since June
2005. Sam joined as a commis
chef at the Gidleigh Park Hotel
and progressed to become
chef tournand. He has worked
at The Bath Priory since March
2009, starting as sous chef and
then head chef six months later.
In September 2012 The Bath
Priory restaurant was awarded
a Michelin star and Sam was
promoted to his present role.
ANDREAS ANTONAAndreas Antona spent his
early years in the professional
kitchens of Germany and
Switzerland and moved
to London to work at the
Dorchester and The Ritz. He
began winning international
acclaim at the Plough and
Harrow in Birmingham and
then went on to set up his first
restaurant Simpsons, which was
soon awarded a Michelin star.
A generous and inspirational
mentor, Andreas has trained up
many of the region’s best chefs.
PETER MARSHALL / PUBLISHERPeter Marshall has built a reputation for top-quality
magazine and cookbook publishing in the most demanding
sectors, including in-house publications for some of
Europe’s greatest hotels and restaurants. Chef Magazine
draws upon the strengths of that experience, backed by
internationally respected chefs and created by a team of
experts in their field.
SHIRLEY MARSHALL / MANAGING EDITORShirley has over 20 years experience in an editorial capacity,
working with magazine titles in the food, lifestyle and
jewellery fields and has also edited a number of professional
cookbooks. She has been with Chef Magazine since its
launch and has helped it to become a leading title in the
industry.
GARY HUNTERGary Hunter is the Head of
Faculty for Hospitality and
Culinary Arts at Westminster
Kingsway College in London
and is also an international
judge in chocolate and
patisserie. He has written seven
cookery books, most recently
‘In a Class of its Own’, and
has been honoured by many
professional bodies including
The Association Culinaire
Française, City & Guilds and
Craft Guild of Chefs . He was
also awarded Best Education
Chef in 2012 and is an active
member of Royal Academy of
Culinary Arts.
ANNA HANSENBorn in Canada and raised in
New Zealand, Anna trained
under Fergus Henderson. In
2001, Anna teamed up with
Peter Gordon to open award-
winning Marylebone restaurant,
The Providores. Anna also acted
as consultant chef to Michelin
starred New York restaurant
PUBLIC. The Modern Pantry
opened in 2008, a sanctuary
of bold flavours from around
the world. Her first cookbook
followed and she was awarded
an MBE in the Queen’s New
Year Honour List 2012.
4 | CHEF BOARD
6 | INSIDE THIS ISSUE
TRENDS: SOUTH KOREAWhat makes the Koreans excited – what they queuing for and what is ticking their boxes at present.
DIEGO MASCIAGAMaster of his art
MY TOP SIXGilles Bragard shares his favourite restaurants
WINES: OF THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTHA selection from Argentina, Chile and South Africa.
INGREDIENT: MAINGloucester Old Spot Pig
THE MAGIC OF OFFALIntestines. Eyeballs. Thymus glands. The stuff of culinary nightmares. Or criminally overlooked kitchen treasure.
INGREDIENT: UNUSUALCocoa Bean
COOKING THE BOOKSA look at some of the new releases
7
363426 30 44
50 5246 53 58
CHEF TRAINING: CHEF EDUCATION MATTERS‘We need to fully comprehend the data, research, history and future industry needs before we can shape the resolution for this challenge.’ Gary Hunter
WELCOMEFirstly, can I say a big thank you, to the editorial board. They
have helped to ensure that the content of Chef Magazine is up
to date, knowledgeable, and helpful to all those who read it –
consolidating its growing reputation as the best magazine for the
working Chef.
Firstly, can I say a big thank you, to the editorial board. They
have helped to ensure that the content of Chef Magazine is up
to date, knowledgeable, and helpful to all those who read it –
consolidating its growing reputation as the best magazine for
the working Chef.
We have had a productive year – the magazine has increased its circulation
substantially and is now also available as an app, which is proving very
popular – especially to our worldwide readers.
In this ever changing world, and to make sure that we remain the best
magazine, reflecting the artistic and visual importance of the presentation
of food, we will, from January, have a new and very diverse editorial board
and, to support this, we will be introducing a new design and feel to the
magazine.
We will also be publishing a recipe book, featuring many the chefs who
have appeared in the last 38 issues of Chef Magazine – this is going to
be the book of the year! I am amazed, when I look back, at who we have
managed to work with, since the magazine was launched over 6 years ago.
Please enjoy this issue – we have added few more ingredients, looked
at training issues and the senses, and interviewed two great chefs:
Massimiliano Alajmo, from the Veneto region of Italy. And Russell Bateman,
recent NCOTY winner – congratulations Russell!
Peter Marshall
Publisher
issue 38
www.chefedia.co.uk
CHEF MAGAZINE Network House, 28 Ballmoor, Celtic Court, Buckingham MK18 1RQTel: 01280 829300 Fax: 01280 829326
For general enquiries regarding Chef Magazine email: peter@chefmedia.co.uk
PUBLISHERPeter Marshall
PAOlivia White
MANAGING EDITORShirley Marshall
ART EDITOR / DESIGNER Philip Donnelly
Photography Peter Marshall
Front cover photography Sophie Delaw
181508 22 24
INGREDIENT: SEASONALAlba White Truffles
CHEF TALK: ‘ESSENZE’ OF MASSIMILIANO ALAJMOAlajmo’s sophisticated dishes remain firmly rooted in tradition using predominantly Italian ingredients with an inherent appreciation of his heartfelt culinary heritage.
THE SENSORY MATRIX: ‘You need to be aware of, and respond to, the fact that every one of the people eating the food you make will have their own primary sense.’
NICO LADENIS OBSERVES: STEVE DRAKE“It was a beautiful day in September and our destination was Drakes in Ripley, a Surrey village since Norman times.”
CHEF TALK: RUSSELL BATEMAN‘...really what this job is about is taking a prime ingredient and making the best of it but keeping it simple.’
HEALTH & SAFETY: NEW FOODS‘The fact that a food has been consumed for many years in another country should not be assumed to mean it is safe’.
8
rom Venice to Verona, the region spans a range of cooking styles. Venice of
course caters most popularly to the tourists. This “Queen of the Waters” floats
tantalisingly on the shores of the Adriatic. So revered as a worldwide treasure
that the lagoon, city and all 117 islands it is built on are strictly protected as
a World Heritage Site. Set on the marshy lagoon, the cuisine of the coastal
Laguna Veneta draws on local fresh fish (Carpione, or freshwater salmon trout
is most common) and shellfish. Venice is famous for its cicchetti (small tapas
dishes) served in the many bacari bars that lie nestled along the city’s winding alleyways.
These all-day snacks are often accompanied with ombra, a rounded glass of local wine, that
takes its name from the refreshment enjoyed as locals sought the ‘shade’ from the heat of
the city streets. Typical cicchetti includes baccalà alla vicentina, a tangy spread made with an
air-dried stockfish slow cooked with anchovy, onion, garlic and loosened with milk. Another
example is sardele in saora (the practice of marinating fried fish in vinegar) a sweet-salty
combination of fried sardines with onions, pine nuts, plump raisins and sometimes with the
addition of zesty lemon peel or even candied citrus.
Inland, in contrast, dishes incorporate the prime beef of the region in dishes such
as the popular boiled meat staple bollito misto or the now omnipresent dish of carpaccio
that originated in Veneto: paper thin slivers of beef traditionally served with a mustard
based mayonnaise. Local pork is used in a cured salami known as soppressa and cotechino,
sausages made with ground pork rind, fat and scraps of meat and pigeon and game-birds
often stewed or used in casseroles. The region enjoys abundant grains and their use in
traditional cuisine is rife, with staple ingredients that include polenta and hearty bigoli, a long
tubular pasta made with buckwheat or now more commonly whole wheat. Rice meanwhile
is the treasured thread that binds all of the region’s ingredients with endless combinations of
seafood, vegetables, herbs and meat used in the popular risotto.
MASSIMILIANO
ALAJMO
CHEF TALK
The food of Veneto, one of Italy’s Northernmost regions, is richly diverse. Fish and
seafood, from crabs to clams, scallops to sea snails arrive fresh from its coast on
the Adriatic sea and livestock thrives on its verdant plains. Meanwhile, an array of
vegetables grow bountifully in lush gardens, like the humble red radicchio prepared
in a multitude of ways, cooked abundantly in rice dishes, melted into soups, grilled
with unctuous local olive oil as an accompanying vegetable, or simply eaten raw in
fresh salads.
9
© sergio coimbra
Continued over ...
10 11
One of the most revered chefs of the region, himself born and working in Padua,
is Massimiliano Alajmo. A third generation restauranteur, aged 19 he joined the family
business Le Calandre in Sarmela di Rubano where his mother, chef Rita Chimetto, had
earned the restaurant its first Michelin star in 1992. Within a year Massimiliano became
the restaurant’s executive chef, earning the restaurant its second star and in 2002, at just
28 years old he became the youngest chef to earn three Michelin stars. Since then, the
restaurant has managed to hold on to its three Michelin stars for 11 consecutive years –
no flash in a (copper) pan here.
The Alajmo stars appear to be on the ascent with their Ristaurante Quadri, located
above the legendary 17th Century Gran Caffe Quadri directly on Venice’s picturesque
St. Mark’s Square, scooping its first Michelin star within only six months of its opening in
June 2011: the fifth for this formidable family enterprise.
As well as clocking up the accolades, the family also run a string of bistros (and
an upcoming outpost in Paris no less), a food store featuring regional and self-branded
products and a line of design objects, including bespoke tableware crafted by local
Italian artisans, award-winning china (exclusively manufactured for them by Rosenthal
no less) and hand blown glassware that draws on the ancient glassblowing traditions
of nearby Murano island. The same design elements can be seen in the dining room at
Le Calandre where modern art lines the walls, sculpture abounds and tying together
their principles, quite literally, a string of wool running right through the dining room; as
Alajmo says:
“Cuisine is like a needle that passing repeatedly through
small holes creates a thread so thin and strong that it
unconsciously binds us all.”
Poetry, art and contemporary design balanced with strong
ties to traditional Italian cuisine, a sense of heritage and core
family values are evident throughout. From the visual references
in the dining room to the artistry on the plate, it is no wonder
Max has earned the nickname “il Mozart dei fornelli“ (Mozart
of the stove) for his passion, creativity and his fiercely creative
compositions. Striking images of the dishes and the creative
process behind them are captured in a recent self-published
book. Prolific writers, brothers ‘Max’ and Raffaele (or ‘Raf’ as he’s
affectionately known, as he adeptly leads front of house) have
followed up their award winning first cookbook In.gredienti with
a second Fluidita. Whilst In.gredienti explored the materials that
form the basis of Max’s cuisine, or what he described as “the
spiritual essence that enables us to engage consciously with
ourselves” Fluidita builds on his culinary philosophy.
Tracking seven years of experimentation, the book presents 70 previously
unpublished recipes that fuse traditional cooking methods with modern technology.
Traditional Italian cuisine is redefined and injected with new life in dishes such as
his steamed Pjzza, exploring dough’s essential properties in a technical twist on
Italy’s most symbolic food. Innovative recipes such as the floridly titled “Nonexistent
tripe ravioli with rosemary-scented white bean purée” containing tofu, play on
textures and taste perceptions of similar ingredients, in this case tofu skins and tripe.
Imaginatively presented, dishes are depicted in aptly inventive and mesmerising images,
photographed under a veil of water so as to capture in visual form, the essential
vibration and vitality of each plate. Yet despite their creative spirit Alajmo’s sophisticated
dishes remain firmly rooted in tradition using predominantly Italian ingredients with an
inherent appreciation of his heartfelt culinary heritage.
© sergio coimbra
“ The lemon [Essenze]
will do more than travel
through the air; it truly
interacts with the other
ingredients. Everything
becomes refreshing and
the perception of the
aroma is much stronger. “
MASSIMILIANO ALAJMO
Continued over ...
13
A DIALOGUE WITH THE CHEF
Is there 1 ingredient you value above all
others in your cuisine?
Water
What and where was the most
memorable meal you have had?
Every meal I have ever had in Sicily.
Art and design are an integral part of
your restaurant. What keeps you inspired
both visually and gastronomically?
Looking at the world through the eyes
of a child.
What would your last supper would
consist of?
Bread, Sicilian extra virgin olive oil and
a vintage bottle of red wine. It would
take place at a round table at the end
of a glass pier leading out to the sea. In
the centre of the table, there would be
a single dish filled with the olive oil for
communal dipping. Around the table
would be seated my friends and family.
What is your signature dish?
Saffron risotto with licorice powder and
incense.
Le Calandre is a family labor of love.
Working closely with your brother, how
do you manage to balance each other’s
temperaments?
By sitting down and eating together.
You use Flavour Essences as notes for
your dishes-how do you create these
and an example of how they best be
used?
Dante Lorenzo Ferro, a master perfumer
makes them based on my suggestions.
They can be used both as ingredients
in recipes or as finishing touches. I
enjoy pairing unexpected scents with
skewers of fresh fruit: mint essence with
mango, rose and raspberry, anise and
watermelon.
Your new project takes you to Paris.
How does your Italian heritage translate
to a city with such a strong food
identity?
Having a strongly rooted cultural and
culinary heritage helps. It allows me
to experiment without worrying about
losing my Italian identity.
LE CALANDRE
Via Liguria 1
35030 Sarmeola di Rubano (PD)
Italy
+39 049 630303
RISTORANTE QUADRI
Piazza San Marco 121
30124 Venezia (VE)
Italy
+39 041 5222105
copyright Namai Bishop
ESSENZI: ESSENTIAL OIL SPRAYSYet another dimension to this chef’s pioneering techniques
emerges through his development and use of a bespoke
range of “Essenze”. Working with master perfumer Lorenzo
Dante Ferro and after more than a year of research
exploring the interplay of aromas and taste, Max launched
a range of pure essential oil sprays Essenze to be used as
he describes, as “taste accelerators”. And a surge of pure
sensual pleasure they certainly are. When we experienced
these remarkable oils (some requiring hundreds of grams of
raw materials to produce a single drop) they added a heady,
multi-sensory taste-memory: floral, citrus, herbal, musky or
when used as a finishing spritz to the creamy saffron risotto
with licorice powder, smoky “incense” lent a heady mist
redolent of ecclesiastical ceremony.
Thanks to the extensive research undertaken by the
chef, he has managed to find a system to slow down the
evaporation process by using fats and liquids.
“These Essenze are, in fact, pure extractions: citrus
fruits are extracted by pressure, like an olive, while all other
ingredients undergo a supercritical extraction at about 37
degrees.” This advanced extraction method ensures the
molecule remains intact so just a few delicate sprays are
enough to create a penetrating potency with the lightest
of touch.
“Try preparing a sauce by emulsifying fish with water
and a little olive oil. Finish it with a spray of lemon. The
lemon will do more than travel through the air; it truly
interacts with the other ingredients. Everything becomes
refreshing and the perception of the aroma is much
stronger. So our food becomes more ethereal but also more
incisive.”
Meanwhile, the pioneering work continues with their
latest research project aimed at finding means to create
lactic sensations without the use of diary, such as protein-
rich plant ingredients like fava beans.
A PERFECT PAIR(ING)The Alajmo brothers are as different in stature as they are
in aptitude yet attribute their success to their ability to work
together as “two faces of the same coin”. Whilst genteel Max
is tall and lean, affable sibling ‘Raf’ was the inspiration behind
the rotund hand blown wine goblets, the ‘Raf’ and the ‘maxi-
Raf’ created especially for the restaurants (the glassware
ode to Max meanwhile is in the form of his thumbprint
embedded in the tumblers). Glasses are kept replete with a
dazzling array of well selected wines, carefully chosen by the
brothers themselves to enhance the flavours on the plate. A
wine pairing here perfectly frames the artistic compositions
on the plate, with accomplished sommeliers navigating
diners on a wine flight that is more akin to a jet display! The
powerful vibrancy of dining experience is balanced with a
tender touch in the kitchen producing textures like feathery
pastry and the smoothest of “creams” that reflect the chef’s
key values: lightness, depth of flavour and, as his latest
anthology is appropriately named after: fluidity.
© sergio coimbra
14 15
hile we’re growing up,
we’re encouraged to
believe that we’re all
pretty much the same as
each other, though most
of us realise during our teens, if not before,
that we are different to everyone else, in some
respects at least.
Are we all the same as each other?
Well yes and no. In lots of ways we are: we all
need to eat to keep going, and we all have an
idea of what it is we like or don’t like. Some
The Sensory
In recent years a number of chefs have attracted attention from the media
by providing more than just food on their plates. Service has included sound
effects and billowing smoke as well as carefully planned visual presentation,
aimed at extending the range and depth of customers’ enjoyment. Although
these devices are supposed to be enhancements that everyone will enjoy,
there will have been quite a few customers who either won’t have got the
point, or will have reacted negatively. To be effective and appropriate, these
extras need to be carefully targeted at individuals, or offered in a way that
allows those who don’t respond positively to escape without feeling that
they’ve missed something. When they’re presented as ‘essential’ and ‘an
important part of the dish’, some will see their own failure to understand or
enjoy the extras as a failure on their part, when it isn’t.
of those preferences, including the ones we
believe we’ve learned as children, are actually
a consequence of our genes, things we
couldn’t change even if we wanted to (like the
colour of our eyes or our hair). There’s been
an enormous amount of research, some of
it very useful, over the last twenty years and
more, to try and establish which bits of the
way we are come from inheritance, and which
from the way we’re brought up.
One of the most remarkable
discoveries, which shifted the balance
between ‘nurture’ and ‘nature’ in scientists’
understanding, was the recognition that
we develop neural networks in our brains
as babies which are a response to direct
stimulus (that is, our brains grow in a
particular way to deal with the particular
things our parents do with us — like singing
or dancing or talking in more than one
language), so a lot more of the qualities
and capacities that we used to believe were
inherited have turned out to be learned
instead.
Continued over ...
“ If you’ve got a strong sense of smell, you can smell bad
things as well as good; you will have a very strong opinion
about smoke, and whether it should be consumed or not... “
COLIN ROTH
Aleksandar Mijatovic/shutterstock.com
16 | SENSORY MATRIX
preference, 1, 2, 3, that affects which things
work most powerfully for us. Our brains have
either learned, or are wired by inheritance, to
deal with that kind of thing most effectively.
Our secondary sense is our ‘check
sense’, the one with which we confirm what
we’re learning or thinking about with our
primary sense — so visual people might
write something down, making a visual note
with a touchy-feely action to help them
remember. And we have a third sense that
isn’t as efficient. Because we like our hobbies
to be absorbing, it’s quite common to find
that people have hobbies in that third sense
area: for example, people who don’t listen
very effectively often enjoy listening to music:
they have to concentrate on it, so it’s very
good at shutting out the things they want a
break from. People whose third sense is vision
don’t see notes that people have left for them,
so if something hasn’t been said, it hasn’t
happened, so far as they’re concerned. And
they quite often enjoy going to art galleries
or to see films: they like talking their way into
and through the images they see because
they have to translate them into their sound or
touchy feely world to be able to ‘read’ them.
We just don’t know (yet) whether this
sensory matrix is learned, or whether it’s
inherited. Because a couple who have a baby
often get together in the first place because
they ‘have things in common’, it’s almost
impossible to work out whether their babies
are inheriting sensory preferences from their
parents, or learning their parents’ preferred
behaviours when they’re babies.
What we do know is that it has a huge
impact on our learning (because we learn
most effectively in our primary sense, much
less well in our third — ‘dyslexic’ people
are almost always ‘eyes down’ touchy feely
people who were taught to read visually when
what they needed was to learn by doing,
holding something and making letter shapes
to correspond with letters and words) and on
our career choices. Some career are much
better suited to some sensory profiles than
others. And you may have already realised that
an awful lot of people who enjoy cooking, and
find it absorbing and rewarding, are touchy
feely, have eyes that tend to go downwards
when they’re asked a question, and have very
strong sensory capacities.
Unfortunately, that’s a challenge as
well as a blessing: if you’ve got a strong
sense of smell, you can smell bad things as
well as good; you will have a very strong
opinion about smoke, and whether it should
be consumed or not; you will love, or hate,
people wearing perfume near your food; you
will love, or hate, flowers that contradict or
confuse the smells you want to dominate a
space. There’s a pretty good chance that you’ll
have strong emotions in every way.
So to be an effective communicator
and entertainer — because that’s what a
good chef is, as well as being a thoroughly
competent producer of food to eat — you
need to be aware of, and respond to, the fact
that every one of the people eating the food
you make will have their own primary sense,
and may not notice the effort you’ve put
into something you’ve made for them that
they can’t ‘read’. Although some people find
‘crunch’ sounds enhance the taste of crisps,
there are quite a lot for whom the sound
simply doesn’t register. The same goes for
musical dressings, or performative elements
like smoke and ice and temperature difference
and even for the way the food is laid out on a
plate. There will be some of your customers
who simply don’t notice these things —
though with luck, they’ve already realised that,
and won’t be sitting at your table, paying the
prices you’re charging for doing it.
There isn’t one right way to do things.
As chefs’ particular specialisms as makers of
entertainment, craftsmen and women in the
culinary arts, become known, they will tend
to attract audiences (including reasonably
compatible couples) who know what they
like, and like what they’re paying for. But it’s
worth remembering that there are always
going to be people who don’t know how their
preferences work, and can’t see the point or
the value of the way you do things —the really
skilful craftsman or woman will have made
sure that what they’ve made can also appeal
to ‘the others’ too: that there is a back up
within every meal, perhaps even every dish, so
that visual, hearing and touchy-feely people
can all get something out of a trip to your
restaurant.
Remembering that we are not all the
same, and trying to cover a fuller range of
preferences than just the particular one we
do well ourselves, can help you to reach and
satisfy a wider audience, and give a stronger
basis to your business because you can ‘speak’
to a more diverse public than just the people
who share your own preferences and like
having them fulfilled.
But just because they’ve ‘only’ been
learned, doesn’t mean that these important
parts of our individual personalities can be
changed at will. We know now that neural
networks go on growing in adult life, so it is
possible to learn new skills, new abilities, even
after we think we’ve settled ‘who we are’. But
our brains are, by that time, still physically
wired to do the things they learned to do
when we were tiny, so our early experience
always continues to shape our choices and
competencies.
What does that mean for us as
individuals?
Well, the most interesting and practically
useful work on the subject was done in
the 1970s by a pair of American therapists
called John Grinder and Richard Bandler.
Although the white-coated brigade have
picked at the holes, some of them quite big
ones, in Neuro-Linguistic Programming, it
remains a powerfully observed and, when
used thoughtfully, productive branch of
hypnotherapy. And one of its observations,
about how to best hypnotise different people
by engineering a hypnotic induction especially
for them, sheds considerable light on our
individual capacities and learning processes.
Bandler and Grinder saw that some
people responded much more quickly to a
visually based ‘script’ when being led into a
hypnotic trance (‘watch the waves rolling in
gently as you feel more and more relaxed…’),
and that they could predict which people
would be responsive to visual ideas by
watching their eye movements when they
answered questions. The same was true for
people who responded most strongly to
auditory (talking/hearing) suggestions, and for
those who found kinaesthetic (touchy-feely)
ideas the most effective. If you ask a primarily
visual person a question, you’ll see their eyes
go upwards (even if only just over the horizon)
while they think of the answer. If you do the
same with an auditory person, their eyes will
go to one side. A touchy-feely person’s eyes
go downwards while they think. And in each
case, the person answering’s eyes will flick to
one of the other directions just before they
speak. If you ask enough questions, or just
think about how someone’s face looks when
you’re talking to them, you’ll find that there’s
one pattern that they use almost all the time,
and there’s likely to be one direction that their
eyes go in very rarely indeed. If you can work
out which, and try asking them a question
based in that sense, you’ll find it takes them
longer to answer, because they have to
‘translate’ it into a sense they can manage
better.
So, what we learn from NLP is that we
all have three main senses that we use in
experiencing life and communication from
others, and that each of us has an order of
“ Although some people find
‘crunch’ sounds enhance the
taste of crisps, there are quite
a lot for whom the sound
simply doesn’t register... “
COLIN ROTH
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SoGOOD_320x225.indd 1 1/27/2014 11:01:06 AM
18
“It was a beautiful day in
September and our destination
was Drakes in Ripley, a Surrey
village since Norman times.”
NICO LADENIS OBSERVES: STEVEN DRAKE
n that day it was bathed in
sunshine. The restaurant
sits alone, set back from the
road, shining like a jewel.
Greeted by the manager,
we were shown to the garden which has an
immaculate lawn, lush foliage and flowers
all around. The sun was so hot we sought
shelter under umbrellas and contemplated
our good fortune.
I had butterflies in my tummy because
it brought back so many memories of our
years in the South of France. The Moulin
de Mougins comes into focus as does the
Hostellerie de Pennafort in Callas(for us by
far the best food and service in the region)
and the Clos St Pierre in Le Rouret. And
how can I forget Richard Olney and an al
fresco meal we had at his house above the
village of Sollies-Toucas in Provence, terrine
of oxtail served with leaves and nasturtium
petals picked from his garden and peaches
poached in La Tour Blanche – the 1939
vintage! Dinah-Jane and I always prefer
to eat at lunchtime. There seems to be
more pleasure and time to enjoy a long
meal during the day. Somehow the senses
appear more charged and the eye is able
to contemplate a more complete vision of
what there is to come.
19
“ There seems to be
more pleasure and
time to enjoy a long
meal during the day.
Somehow the senses
appear more charged
and the eye is able to
contemplate a more
complete vision
of what there is to
come. ”
NICO LADENIS
A brilliant and very dainty assortment
of canapés were most appropriately
washed down by an English sparkling wine
from Hampshire, not too dissimilar from
Champagne. The dining room is very plain, no
gimmicks or distractions. The tables are well
spaced out and truly comfortable. The service
is attentive, charming and professional. The
sommelier was full of enthusiasm when
discussing his choice of wines, of which an
Alsace Riesling was particularly outstanding.
A selection of breads was placed in front
of us. Sliced sourdough and brioche a tete.
Steven Drake came briefly out of the kitchen
to describe to us the mini gastronomic menu
he proposed.
First came a light, immaculate
concoction of crayfish mousse, crayfish
sauce and a plump tail all presented in a small
bowl. The next course was a very imaginative
variation on a theme of broccoli. Textures
were crunchy and smooth. This was followed
by a gigantic scallop, well caramelised and
sprinkled with buckwheat. On one side was a
pear and saffron chutney and on the other a
lemongrass foam. This dish was extraordinary
in the quality of the scallop, a truly first grade
ingredient. The chutney was a little too
pronounced in flavour and the foam was
irrelevant. This is a perfect example of “less
is more”. The main course was cheek and
belly of pork. I am not particularly fond of
pork and never go out of my way to eat it but
the cheek, coated in a rich reduction, melted
in the mouth and was accompanied by two
garnishes, one of pickled cucumber which
was absolutely delicious and well matched,
the other kale. Kale, a new-fangled heavily
promoted food is now considered one of
the wonder foods and it probably is, but in
my case it is a bore with too much iron and
it aggravates my gout! A plate of English
cheeses followed. Superlative, every one of
them, and beautifully presented with a variety
of biscuits and slices of unbelievably good
walnut bread. The mint and pea ice cream
which sat on a bed of crumble was uniformly
acclaimed. The main pudding was well
judged because it was light and presented in
bite sized portions.
I sat there and thought of Steven. I
remember him well when Chez Nico was
at Great Portland Street and then Park Lane.
He was very polite and well mannered,
very dedicated and hard working. I have a
picture of him with a pile of small aluminium
darioles, slicing large potatoes on a mandolin
to make crispy galettes. He was always
reliable and dependable. I see him now as a
very daring young chef, full of imagination
and good technique, his feet in two camps,
one traditional and the other modern. I hope
that his hungry search for new textures,
flavours and combinations will one day
subside and he will become one of the best
chefs in our country. This is why I would like
to give him some advice if I may. His stepping
stones, which he highlights on his menu
as “Intrigue, Adventure, Flavour, Simplicity
and Discovery” should remain in his soul
and in his mind. These words could be
misconstrued and, knowing how cruel food
critics and some customers can be, they can
appear as a red rag to a bull. Left alone these
emotive words should be allowed to spring
from the plate automatically.
There is no greater thrill or satisfaction
springing from my career than to see so
many of the young men who toiled in my
kitchen in years past, now running their own
restaurants, cooking beautiful food and being
acknowledged. When I sit in their dining
rooms to eat, I feel extremely proud and I
pinch myself for having had a small hand in
their success. The respect and admiration I
have for these young chefs are my reward for
my years in this trade. I am a lucky man.
Professional Chef Trainingat Westminster Kingsway College
Are you looking for professional chef training while you work? Do you want to develop your skills for the industry? Enrol now for new courses at Westminster Kingsway College in partnership with the Craft Guild of Chefs.
Training the Hospitality industry for over 100 years, Westminster Kingsway College’s School of Hospitality has an excellent reputation both in the UK and across the world with notable former students, including Jamie Oliver and Ainsley Harriott. The College offers a unique opportunity to study at its Victoria Centre in central London SW1, just minutes from zone 1 stations.
Professional Chef Courses
• Professional Cookery Introduction Level 124 weeks from September. £1,270(or £1,900 for International students)*
• Professional Cookery Intermediate Level 21 year from January. £1,970 (or £2,600 for International students) *
• Advanced Diploma Professional Cookery Level 31 year from September or January.£2,070 if aged under 24 or £2,800 if aged over 24**
Patisserie & Confectionery Courses
• Patisserie & Confectionery Introduction Level 112 weeks from September or January. £700*
• Patisserie & Confectionery Intermediate Level 224 weeks from January. £1,270(or £1,900 for International students)*
• Advanced Diploma Patisserie & Confectionery Level 31 year from September.£2,070 if aged under 24 or £2,800 if aged over 24*
Courses provided by Westminster Kingsway College supported by the Craft Guild of Chefs
www.westking.ac.uk 0870 060 9800 courseinfo@westking.ac.uk Twitter @Westking Facebook.com/WestminsterKingsway
All of the College’s part-time professional courses are supported by the Craft Guild of Chefs. All applicants for this course should apply to become a member of the Craft Guild of Chefs to enrol. Membership is payable to the Craft Guild of Chefs for programme membership, master classes, competition judging and the regular Stockpot Magazine of the Guild.
*All course fees are subject to change. Please note that course fees may change at short notice due to circumstances beyond our control. The fees payable are those in force at the time of enrolment, which supersede any that may previously have been advertised. **Applicants aged over 24 are not eligible for additional government funding for this course. However you may be able to apply for a 24+ Advanced Learning Loan to help fund this course. Contact our Learner Consultants for further details.
These specialist one day seminars cover all aspects of small and large game from its identification and preparation to its background, history and cooking tips.
The day is divided into two main lectures with the first on feathered and small furred game followed by lunch and the second on venison. It will cover: hanging, quality points, classification, recognition and preparation.
The hugely popular game seminars at Westminster Kingsway College are now in their ninth year and it remains one of the only events of its kind in the UK.
Chefs from many top establishments have attended includingThe Sheraton Park Lane, The Landmark, The House of Commons, The Crown Plaza, The Peach Pub company and The Royal Garden Hotel. The seminars attract food experts and amateur chefs who all have a passion to discover more about UK game. The Game Seminar will cover all the theory game elements for VRQ and NVQ 3 qualifications.
Visit www.westking.ac.uk/game for forthcoming dates.
Westminster Kingsway College is excited to offer a brand new programme of study; International Chef Diplomas.These dedicated programmes attract students from all over the world who want to learn in central London.Over 24 weeks, you will learn the skills to be a confident chef in the hospitality industry.
Contact courseinfo@westking.ac.uk or visit www.westking.ac.uk/internationaldiploma to find out more.
Game seminars
International Chef Diplomas
23
round the rest of Europe
and much of the globe, not
a second thought is given
to barbecued intestines or
heart tapas. Indeed, certain
cuts are considered a delicacy, the piece de
resistance of a banquet.
In China you’d be thought incredibly
rude for waving away a plate of chicken
feet. In Ethiopia and Eritrea, tripe, liver and
ground meat are fried in clarified butter to
create dulot ordulet. Brain is breaded and
fried in Cuban fritters. Blood is a go-to in
countless recipes from Scandinavian blood
pancakes to coagulated cubes in Southeast
Asian soups and of course, blood sausage or
pudding is common across many cultures,
including Polish kiszka, French boudin
noir and Puerto Rican morcilla. Even, it is
whispered, the English breakfast.
There is no room for squeamish
sensitivities in the world of offal cooking.
No cut is off limits. Take thymus glands for
example. Better known as sweetbreads,
they’re typically poached, braised or sautéed.
Even dressed up on a Michelin starred plate
they’re not the prettiest proposition. And
that’s what gives offal its honesty. It’s all
about the taste. A case in point is Sicilian
spleen sandwiches. Pani cu i meuza is a
widely available street food on the island.
The organ is sliced up and mingled with
other tit bits such as lungs and is then fried in
animal fat, stuffed in a bun and served with
a slice of Sicilian lemon and perhaps some
grated local caciocavallo cheese. Not exactly
the most delicate of delicacies, it has to let
the flavour speak for itself.
With an infinite variety of combinations,
offal is incredibly versatile so are Brits missing
a trick? Surely with such a multitude of
options available there’s something most
meat eaters could enjoy. And as a nation, we
haven’t always rejected the notion of offal
Intestines. Eyeballs. Thymus glands.
The stuff of culinary nightmares.
Or criminally overlooked kitchen
treasure. It’s not just a matter of
taste, it’s a room divider. Offal, the
parts of an animal that some of
us will not dare to reach, covers
any meat which falls outside the
auspices of skeletal muscle. A
glorious panoply of organs. Or a
literally gut wrenching mismatch
of horror food that has no place on
a dining plate. There’s no getting
away from it, offal is the Marmite of
the menu. In the UK at least.
THE MAGIC OF OFFALeating; heart, brain and lungs were a staple of
British food for hundreds of years. Certain cuts
still find favour. Liver and onions and steak
and kidney pie more often than not figure on
greasy spoon menus. Black pudding is used
as a nice addition to a fry up. But as a food
group, offal has not figured highly in British
cuisine for a very long time.
Luckily for those of us who embrace
the joy of smothering a crisp piece of toast
in a healthy helping of bone marrow, things
are changing. And fast. The offal revolution
is generally accepted to have started with
the opening of Fergus Henderson’s St
John in London in 1994. Its now legendary
emphasis on ‘nose to tail eating’ has arguably
spawned a whole new food movement and
the eponymous book has become a legend
in its own right. Henderson’s roast bone
marrow and parsley salad was responsible for
converting many a sceptic. Several years ago
in an interview with the Telegraph, Henderson
laid down the philosophy behind nose to tail
eating, “…it seems common sense and even
polite to the animal to use all of it. Rather
than being testosterone-fuelled blood-lust,
it actually seems to be a gentle approach to
meat eating.”
On Archer Street in London’s Soho,
Boca Di Lupo’s refined offerings follow
a similar course. Amongst Artichoke alla
giudia and home-salted cod, you’ll find tripe
with guanciale, chilli and tomato and lamb
sweetbreads with artichokes and sage. Even
the pudding menu manages to smuggle
in some blood. A cold dish of sweet pigs’
bloody salami incorporates a powerful and
winning combination of chocolate, pine nuts,
pistachios and candied fruits.
In the modern UK restaurant scene
efforts are certainly being made to push
offal to the forefront of British food culture.
And rightly so. Its makes sense on so many
levels. The most glaringly obvious argument
in favour of offal is its price. Although the
cost of offal has gone up as people have
started to unlock its inner beauty, it’s still
relatively good value. The butcher’s window
says it all. Compare a kilo of ox cheeks and
the same weight of even an average cut of
beef from the more favoured parts of the
animal and the figures say it all.
It seems both churlish to the animal
whose parts are being discarded and plain
stupidity financially to disregard offal because
we don’t like the thought of a beautifully
braised tongue or a fiery dish of tripe and
chillis. There’s a world of flavour out there
and thankfully more and more opportunities
to dive into it. From the braised pigs’ knuckle
of Manchester’s China Town to the refined
offerings of London’s west end, sometimes
forgotten but gloriously tasty cuts are waiting
to be discovered.
LAMB SWEETBREAD VOL AU VENT WITH WILD MUSHROOMSBy Daniel Galmiche
Serves 4
PREPARATION TIME:
15 minutes
COOKING TIME:
25 minutes
For a while now, I’ve wanted to do a lamb sweetbread vol au vent (in a puff pastry case). So, vol au vents are not only very popular in France but also in Britain, perhaps not with lamb sweetbreads though! This is a very tasty dish, which can be, depending on the size, a starter or main course.
It’s best to ask your butcher to prep the sweetbreads for you, it will be just better. With mushrooms, fresh herbs, lamb stock and a touch of whipped cream to go with it, you are going to delight your guests. But, that’s not quite all, what you need beside it are some pan fried courgettes with garlic and a lovely glass of red wine.
INGREDIENTS
12 discs of all butter puff pastry, 5mm/¼" thick by 9cm/3½" diameter1 egg, beaten 300g/10½ oz lamb sweetbreads40g/1½ oz butter2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp plain flour1 tbsp very fine dry breadcrumbs300g/10½ oz mixed wild or button mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed70ml/2¼ floz whipping cream1 tbsp chives, chopped
METHOD
1. Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas 5.2. Put 4 of the pastry discs onto a silicone or
greaseproof lined tray. Using a 7.5cm/3" cutter, cut the other 8 discs, leaving just the outer ring – save the centres for something else. Brush the whole disc with the beaten egg, making sure none goes over the edge, then lay a ring of pastry on top, edge to edge. Carefully brush with egg then repeat with another disc on top so you have 4 stacks of discs and rings. Brush the top with more egg and then place 4 dariole or pudding moulds on the outer corner of the tray – this is will help them rise evenly and not tip over. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes, turning the tray front to back after 10 minutes.
3. While the pastry cooks, bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the sweetbreads and blanch for 1-1½ minutes, then refresh in iced water, pat dry and remove the skin. Cut the sweetbreads into large cubes. Place in a tray with a little flour to coat, then tap off any excess. Heat a frying pan until hot,
add 20g/¾oz butter and tablespoon of oil, and when the butter is foaming, add the sweetbreads and fry for about 4-5 minutes until golden brown and crispy. Add the breadcrumbs, toss to combine and cook for 1 minute more until crunchy, then drain onto kitchen towel to remove excess fat.
4. When the pastry is ready, lightly press your fingers in the centre of the vol au vent and press the pastry down. Set aside to firm up, but keep somewhere warm.
5. When the sweetbreads and pastry are ready, heat a non stick frying pan until hot, add the last 20g/¾oz butter and tablespoon of olive oil and when the butter is foaming, add the mushrooms and sauté for 1-2 minutes. Add the cream and bring to the boil, then after 2-3 minutes, when it starts to coat the mushrooms, add the cooked sweetbreads and chives, toss to combine then check the seasoning. Spoon into the cooked puff pastry cases and serve with whatever you fancy – wilted spinach or red chard both go really well.
24 25
Alba White TrufflesINGREDIENT: SEASONAL
IDENTIFYING ALBA WHITE TRUFFLESWhite truffles are judged by sight, touch and
smell. Ideally they need to be intact, firm but
yield to touch and smell fresh – not of mould
or rot. Hard truffles are probably too young
and not ready, and one that is too soft or
starts to smell of dirty socks is probably past
its prime.
Truffles grows symbiotically among
the roots of different trees like oak, poplars,
willows, beech and hazelnuts. The tree
species influences its aroma and colour too.
The ones found in the roots of Oak trees tend
to be a creamy white, have the most pungent
perfume and are the most sought after. The
ones from the roots of some poplar trees have Continued over ...
The white truffle from Alba
is a luxury commodity, and
has long been recognised by
the gastronomic community
as the one with the highest
quality, and subsequently
commanding the highest
price. This truffle is
considered by many to be the
world’s highest quality truffle
as it has the most intense
aroma, which has been
described as a combination
of meat, cheese, garlic and
spices. It is definitely unique
and much of the enjoyment
is from the pervading smell as
you eat it.
This prized fungus is
rare, and seasonal, and only
available from the end of
September until January, or
when the winter snow arrives.
They are only found in the
damp forests of the hilly
Langhe region in southern
Piedmont, north east Italy.
aroma to intensify. You must never cook white
truffles, unlike black truffles, in which cooking
will bring out the flavour.
MARKET PRICE OF THE TRUFFLESWhite truffles are foraged from wild forests,
but the numbers found are diminishing yearly,
as woodlands are increasingly being turned
into agriculture land and the surrounding soil
has often been contaminated by pesticides.
They cannot be formulated or cultivated,
unlike black truffles – there are many truffle
farms now, growing black truffles, but these
only fetch a fraction of the price of white
truffles.
Several days spent at the Annual Alba
White Truffle Fair, speaking to truffle hunters,
dealers and chefs, will bring an appreciation
of this rare and highly exalted fungus. The
scarcity of Italian white truffles and increasing
international demand is one of the reasons
for the exorbitant prices. Besides Alba, Italian
white truffles are also found in Tuscany and
Molise, but they are deemed to be inferior in
aroma and flavour and tend to have lower
market prices.
The market price is set every season,
depending on the supply, and is not just
dependent on weight but also on size, shape,
colour and age. The prices vary from year to
year depending on that year’s available supply
and demand, and this year prices are ranging
from £2,500 to £5000 per kilogram.
a brownish colour and have a red line or a
pink tinge which the experts deem inferior to
the oak ones and are less perfumed.
An Alba truffle can sometimes be
identified by its irregular shape, due to the
hard clay soil that it grows in around the
Piedmont region. You will rarely find perfectly
round or oval shaped Alba truffles.
The white truffles is best eaten within a
week of harvesting. After a week, the truffle’s
aroma and flavour is vastly diminished, and it
can start to rot or dry out. It can be kept in a
wet paper towel in the fridge, for a few days,
but never in oil, as this can cause mould, or in
rice, as this dries it out.
The white truffles is best enjoyed shaved
thinly onto on simple hot dishes, to enable the
There are only a small number of people
who can identify and authenticate real Alba
truffles. At the Alba Truffle Fair, voluntary
judges will assess any truffles you want to
buy from the assembled truffle hunters, and
the specimen is then given a certificate of
authenticity. A good source, when buying,
is probably one of the truffle dealers from
Alba, as they have had years of experience in
identifying and classifying the different types
of white truffles, and buy directly from trusted
licensed truffle hunters.
Truffle dealers outside of Italy are
usually the middlemen, who supply
restaurants around the world. These dealers
have had years of experience in identifying
and classifying the different types of white
truffles. Many chefs and restaurateurs rely on
the reputation of these dealers, as many of
them will probably not make the trip to Alba
themselves.
Demand for white truffles, and
especially those from Alba, has been steadily
increasing over the years, as dealers have
been actively marketing their products to
non-Italian markets. Today, driven by the
demand of the new wealth in these emerging
markets, we see fashionable restaurants from
Singapore to Dubai offering truffle menus
during the season.
In some other countries, white truffles
are being offered at prices way below the
average market prices in Alba, but generally
these will not be the top quality Alba truffles
but rather from another Italian region, as it’s
unlikely that a truffle hunter or dealer will sell
at a loss.
Some truffle sellers have been known
to dupe unsuspecting buyers by bundling in
cheaper white truffles, from other regions,
with some real highly perfumed Alba white
truffles. The inferior truffles will temporarily
absorb some of the aroma from the Alba
truffles, but this aroma does not penetrate and
will fade quite quickly.
If you are buying truffles from a
third party, and not in Alba itself, it pays to
understand the product, and the Alba white
truffle market, to ensure you are getting the
real deal. Some less experienced chefs have
been know to buy expensive white truffles
which were later found to not even be Italian,
let alone from Alba.
luri/shutterstock.com
his breed has its origins in the Severn Valley in
Gloucestershire. This is a cheese and cider region and the
Old Spot was sometimes known as the ‘orchard pig’, as
it was traditionally found in cider and Perry orchards. Old
folklore is that the spots are bruises from fallen fruit.
The breed was developed in response to farming
conditions in the 1800s. Farmers needed a hardy animal
that would flourish on a varied diet. Indeed the breed is considered to be the
oldest spotted pedigree pig in the world with reference first made to it in 1850.
In the 1930s people were encouraged to make bacon at home and
this shift marked the beginning of the decline for the Gloucester Old Spot.
In spite of the fact that the Gloucester Old Spot makes great bacon, it has a
slow rate of maturation and, as a result, was shunned for faster finishing pigs.
This, coupled with the trend for leaner meat, proved almost fatal and numbers
dropped until the 1970s, since which time it has seen a marked improvement
in registered numbers and now has a good population.
26
GloucesterOld Spot Pig
27
Image ©Tree Top Farm
Continued over ...
About Slow Food UK Chef Alliance Slow Food UK developed the Chef Alliance in 2011 in recognition
of those chefs who share our vision to champion small-scale
producers and good quality local and sustainably produced food.
There are currently over 120 leading chefs in England, Northern
Ireland, Scotland and Wales who are members of the Alliance.
The Slow Food UK Chef Alliance is supported by Lavazza.
About UK Ark Of Taste programmeOur way of protecting Britain’s edible bio-diversity: the UK Ark of
Taste is part of the International Ark of Taste network, which counts
more than 2000 products from over 60 countries. The UK Ark Of
Taste programme is supported by Restaurant Associates.
The Gloucester Old Spot has large lop ears and pale
skin with irregular black spots. It is a dual purpose
breed with a docile nature. The carcass produces
well-marbled meat and the depth of the body
produces high quality bacon and crackling.
INGREDIENT: MAINARK OF TASTE PRODUCT
28 | MAIN INGREDIENT 29
PRESSED TERRINE OF GLOUCESTER OLD SPOT PIG CHEEKS, SMOKED HAM HOCK AND LEEKBy David Everitt-Matthias
Serves 12-14
INGREDIENTS
ham hock:
350g smoked ham hock
200g roughly chopped carrots
100g each roughly chopped
onion, leek and celery
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
a sprig of thyme
10 white peppercorns
terrine:
1 medium celeriac, about
700–800g
100g unsalted butter
24 pig’s cheeks, trimmed
salt and aromatics as for Confit
of Duck Leg
750g duck fat
25 thin baby leeks
400g brown chicken stock
reduced to 100g
This is one of my favourite starters:
a terrine of pig’s cheeks, cooked
slowly in duck fat, and poached
smoked ham hock, served with
home-cured pork jowl. The terrine
has just a little jus to help it set
when pressed and to keep it moist.
This porcine lover’s delight is
served with a pear purée, which
helps cut the richness of the
terrine, raw pear for texture and
honeyed mustard seeds for a touch
of heat. It is worth the wait for the
home-cured jowl (which makes
great bacon) and the Gloucester
Old Spot is a great rare breed for
this recipe.
METHOD
ham hock:
1. Soak the smoked ham hock overnight
in cold water to remove excess salt.
2. The next day, place it in a large
saucepan with the vegetables and
aromatics. Cover with water and bring
to the boil, then skim and simmer for
3 ½–4 hours, until the meat is coming
easily away from the bone.
3. Lift out the hock (strain the stock and
keep for a soup or broth). Remove the
meat from the bones, discarding the
skin and picking off any bits of gristle
and fat. Place in a container.
celeriac:
1. Peel the celeriac and slice as finely
as possible. Line a baking tray, about
52x32cm, with baking parchment. Melt
the butter in a small saucepan, then
brush the baking parchment with a
little of it.
2. Season, then cover with overlapping
slices of celeriac to form a rectangular
sheet about 25x36cm in size. Brush
with more butter and season.
3. Place in an oven preheated to 180°C/
Gas Mark 4 and cook for 5 minutes.
4. Turn the celeriac sheet over (this
manoeuvre will need another baking
tray lined with buttered parchment)
and cook for a further 5 minutes.
5. Remove from the oven and place a
sheet of baking parchment on top of
the celeriac. Set a baking tray of the
same size on top and add a heavy
weight. Cool, then place in the fridge
to chill. When cold, remove from the
trays and remove the paper. Cut into
two equal rectangles, about 36x12cm,
for the top and bottom of the terrine.
pig’s cheeks:
1. Salt the pig’s cheeks with the salt and
aromatics. Pack tightly in a bag or
container and leave for 6 hours only.
2. Remove the salt and herbs by quickly
rinsing under cold water and dry well.
3. In a heavy-based ovenproof pot or a
high sided baking tray large enough to
fit the cheeks, melt the duck fat over
a low heat. Add the cheeks, which
should be completely covered with fat.
Cover with foil, then place in an oven
preheated to 150°C/ Gas Mark 2 and
simmer gently for 2 to 2½ hours, until
tender. To check, prick with a fork:
there should be no resistance. Keep
warm in the fat until needed.
leeks:
1. Iemove any damaged outer leaves
from the leeks and trim the green end,
then carefully trim the bottom, leaving
the smallest amount of root intact.
2. Bring a large pan of salted water to the
boil, add the leeks and cook for 3–4
minutes, until tender. Place on a tray
and squeeze the excess water out of
them. Keep warm.
terrine:
1. The ham hock, pig’s cheeks and
reduced stock should be warm, so
reheat if necessary.
2. Place a frame, about 36x12x4cm, on a
tray and line with 2 layers of cling film,
overlapping the sides of the frame.
3. Carefully place one of the celeriac
rectangles on the bottom of the frame
and drizzle over a little of the reduced
chicken stock.
4. Neatly arrange the pigs’ cheeks next to
each other, 3 across and 8 along, in a
layer on the celeriac. Press down well
with a board that fits inside the frame.
5. Season and drizzle with chicken stock,
then add the leeks, arranged top to tail
along the length of the terrine. Press
down well again. Drizzle with chicken
stock and season.
6. Evenly place a layer of smoked ham
hock all over the leeks. Drizzle with the
last bit of stock and season.
7. Carefully lay the other rectangle of
celeriac on top and press down well
with the board.
8. Bring the cling film up and over the
terrine, and seal. Prick lightly with a
fork and place the board on top. Place
2 heavy weights on the board and
leave in the fridge overnight to set.
9. About 40 minutes before serving, take
the terrine from the fridge, to take
the chill off it, and remove it from the
frame. Remember to remove the cling
film before serving!
Chef Biography: David Everitt-Matthias
London-born chef and author David Everitt-Matthias has been the co-owner and head chef of two Michelin starred Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham since 1987, a joint venture he shares with his wife Helen.
David began his career in 1978 at London’s Inn on the Park (now the Four Seasons), before developing his French-style technique while working under renowned French Chef Pierre Koffman at La Tante Claire. David moved on shortly after to become Head Chef of Grand Café in 1983. After two years there, David took his second head chef position at Steamers Fish Restaurant, and wrapping up his time
in London at Fingals Restaurant Putney in 1987.
Married two years prior, David and his wife Helen moved to Cheltenham Spa in the Cotswolds to open their dream restaurant in 1987. Le Champignon Sauvage, meaning ‘wild mushroom’ is no stranger to awards. Some of the accolades David and the restaurant have received include 2014 Good Food Guide Chef of the Year, 2013 Observer Food Monthly Outstanding Achievement Award, 2007 Catey Chef of the Year, 2006 BMW Square Meal Restaurant of the Year, while Le Champignon Sauvage has retained its two Michelin stars since 2000.
David is the author of three highly regarded recipe books: Essence: Recipes from Le Champignon Sauvage in 2006 and Dessert Recipes from Le Champignon Sauvage in 2009, the latter earned runner-up for Best Cookbook in the World from the Gourmand Book Awards. His third, Beyond Essence: New Recipes from Le Champignon Sauvage was launched in spring 2013.
David is one of the country’s most respected and celebrated chefs, renowned for his creative use of local and foraged ingredients.
cocoa bean (cacao bean)
INGREDIENT: UNUSUAL
he seeds of the cacao tree are naturally white but
take on the more familiar darker colour when dried.
Containing 40-50% cocoa butter, cocoa beans also
have high levels of flavenoids which may be beneficial
for the heart.
Cocoa, or cacao, beans are most commonly
used to make cocoa, chocolate, and cocoa butter, and are widely
associated with all things sweet. However, the raw product is not
naturally sweet – its savoury flavour combines well with meaty and
nutty ingredients such as chicken or almonds and an increasing
number of chefs are experimenting with it in savoury dishes.
Cocoa ‘nibs’ are cocoa beans that have been dried, roasted and
cruched into small pieces. When the nibs are ground down, this allows
the separation of the cocoa butter from the cocoa solids, which are
then used to make chocolate, but the nibs are becoming increasingly
popular as an ingredient in their own right.
Containing no sugar and with a texture similar to macademias,
they can add texture and flavour to salads and tagines, as well as to the
more obvious biscuits and cakes.
More unusual is the use of whole cocoa beans as an ingredient,
but one of our chef editorial board members, Andreas Antona, has
shared one of his recipes which does, in fact, use the whole cocoa bean.
We hope you will try it out and let us know what you think....
Continued over ...
Valentyn Volkov/shutterstock.com
30 31
The cocoa bean is the dried, fermented, fatty
seeds of the tropical tree Theobroma cacao of
the family Sterculiaceae.
32 | UNUSUAL INGREDIENT
CRISPY DUCK EGG, COCOA BEANS AND CHORIZOBy Andreas Antona
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
eggs:
1 litre sunflower oil
4 duck eggs
8 tbsp coarse breadcrumbs (or
Japanese Panko crumbs)
1 chicken egg
4 tbsp plain flour and pinch salt
1 tbsp chopped parsley
3 tbsp vinegar
garnish:
3 tbsp cocoa beans
1 shallot
1 clove garlic
1 sprig thyme
1 tbsp chopped chorizo
2 petals of tomato confit
1 tsp chopped parsley
2 tbsp olive oil
50g butter
100g of sliced piquillo pepper
handful of rocket leaves
METHOD
garnish:
1. Remove the cocoa beans from
their pods.
2. Cover with fresh water and
simmer with the garlic, shallot
and thyme for 30 minutes or
until tender. Add salt at the end
of the cooking time and keep
warm in the cooking liquid.
3. Dice the confit tomato to the
same size as the chorizo.
eggs:
1. Bring a pan of water to a simmer
and add the vinegar. Prepare an
ice bath.
Crack the eggs into a bowl,
taking care not to break the
yolks. Slip your hand under 1 of
the yolks and lift it out of the
bowl leaving the white behind.
Gently drop the yolk into the
simmering water. Repeat quickly
with the rest of the eggs. (Use
the whites for another dish.)
2. Allow the yolk to poach gently
for around 2-3 minutes. They
should be set around the outside
but completely liquid in the
centre. When you are happy that
this is the case, use a slotted
spoon to lift them into the ice
bath where you will leave them
until completely chilled – about
10 minutes.
3. Drain the egg yolks on kitchen
paper and prepare the coating.
4. Arrange 3 bowls – 1 of flour, 1 of
beaten hen’s egg and 1 of crumb
and chopped parsley mixed.
5. Pass each yolk through each
bowl, first the flour, then egg,
then crumbs to give a good
coating of crumbs and parsley
for each. Reserve the coated
yolks in the fridge.
to finish and serve
1. Heat the sunflower oil to 180C.
Remove the eggs from the fridge
20 minutes before cooking them
so that they are not too chilly at
the centre.
Heat 1 tbsp of olive oil in a
saucepan and sauté the chorizo
for 1 minute, then stir in 4
tbsp beans and 1 tbsp of their
cooking liquid. When the beans
are thoroughly hot add the diced
confit tomatoes, piquillo pepper,
rocket leaves, parsley and butter.
Stir gently to amalgamate the
butter and keep warm.
2. Deep fry the eggs until crisp
and golden. Drain the eggs on
kitchen paper.
3. Spoon some of the bean mixture
onto warm plates, season the
eggs with salt and place next to
the bean mixture and add a few
rocket leaves to garnish.
33
34 35
n a recent trip to South Korea I wanted to discover what the latest food trends are. With more Koreans visiting the UK we are starting to see the cuisine develop.
Already supermarkets are introducing various Korean ingredients: the majority of people have heard of bulgogi, almost everyone knows of kimchi and of course the famous, real KFC aka Korean Fried Chicken.
Im was a student of mine at Westminster Kingsway College four years ago and is now working for KBS food channel as a research and development chef. The perfect tour guide, Im knew exactly what I was looking for on the food scene. He told me we were going to visit two restaurants: one specialising in cold noodle called nengmeun and another specialising in a particular ice dessert called bingsu. These dishes were traditionally served in the winter months but nowadays are extremely popular with young Koreans as a summer dish.
The first restaurant was very busy. An elegant looking modern building filled with families, young and old. this was unlike the suburban restaurants, and this time I wasn’t sitting on the floor ( Korean traditional
dining requires removing shoes and sitting at low tables). As we sat, a waitress brought us a hot drink of memil tea, which is basically the cooking liquid from the noodles we were about to order.
Im ordered two dishes: pyeung-yang nengmeun (also known as mul nengmeun) which is flavoured with beef stock and white kimchi liquor, and hamheung nengmeun which is a spicy version without the beef stock. These were accompanied with a yellow mustard similar to Dijon and Geotjeori, which is a fresh kimchi that has had very little fermentation.These dishes originated in the winter months, when the various kimchi are prepared, so using the very fresh fermented vegetables, the liquor was then used with the beef broth.
The chilled noodles were freshly made at the restaurant, Im explained the process was difficult – as the dough is made from buckwheat, they are likely to break easily so sweet potato starch is blended in to give more structure. The noodles had a great ‘bite’ to them, while the broth was delicious with a fantastic depth of flavour. I forgot it was cold and devoured the large bowlful! Im had the spicy version which I tried and found was equally good!
Unlike Europeans, the Koreans are eating more for the purpose of health and wellbeing, not really to socialise as such, so
once lunch or dinner is eaten it is quickly paid for and the guests leave. As we left our table was cleared and the next customers were ready to sit down, creating a very large turnover throughout the day.
Next we battled through heavy traffic to Bukchon to try bingsu, again traditionally a winter dish, dating back over 2000 years. Made from shaved ice with maybe a little honey, it is said that, at the time of the Japanese domination of Korea, their love of red beans saw this as an addition to this famous simple icey dish. The sweet red beans stayed and now these are served alongside many other toppings – the ice has now evolved to shaved milk, infused with delightful flavours, and usually finished with a compact chewy rice cake.
We arrived to be told we would have to wait 15 minutes to be seated – I was told by Im it would be worth the wait! Eventually we were seated, the menu was at the desk on a tablet. I went for a green tea infused frozen milk with the traditional sweetened red bean – a strange combination but again Im hit the spot and introduced me to yet another Korean delicacy. Wow! the layers of infused ice melted in my mouth and the strange combination definitely worked.
I could now see why the Koreans love these cold dishes – winter or summer they are perfect for any foodie anywhere!
trends“I was looking for what makes the Koreans excited – what they queuing for and what is
ticking their boxes at present – so I met up with my friend Seo Hyung Im.”
Seo Hyung Im
36 37
RussellBateman the sweet taste of success
Russell Bateman’s CV reads like a Who’s Who of the great and the good
from the UK (and French) restaurant scene over the last 15 years: Nico
Ladenis; Marcus Wareing; Marc Veyrat; Eric Chavot; Daniel Clifford –
Bateman has worked with them all. And the 34-year-old head chef at
Colette’s at The Grove in Hertfordshire credits each and every one with
playing their part in helping him achieve victory in the Craft Guild of Chefs’
National Chef of the Year competition in October.
Continued over ...
CHEF TALK
“ I am extremely lucky to
have worked with so many
great chefs and I think
about my experience with
all of them all the time. “
RUSSELL BATEMAN
38 | CHEF TALK
am extremely lucky to have worked with so many
great chefs and I think about my experience with all
of them all the time,” says Bateman.
“They all had a massive influence on me and in
the final of the competition there were parts of the
dishes that came from all of them.”
The fact that Marcus Wareing was on the
judging panel – along with some of Bateman’s other idols including
Phil Howard, Brett Graham, Bruce Poole, Clare Smyth, Jason Atherton
and Tom Kerridge – made his success in the competition even
sweeter.
“I spent the most time in my career with Marcus [at Petrus] and
to have him judge me after working for him all that time ago was just
fantastic.
“In fact, the judging panel was incredible for this competition:
to win a competition with those people judging is like a dream come
true, it’s phenomenal. They are the people that everyone in this
industry admires, looks up to, and aspires to be like.”
It was Bateman’s second attempt at taking the title after making
it through to the finals last year.
He’d been mentally preparing and planning for the 2014
competition ever since – well, as much as he could do without
knowing what ingredients he would have to cook with in the final; the
mystery basket of ingredients was revealed to Bateman and the other
seven finalists a week before the contest at The Restaurant Show at
Earls Court.
Bateman believes his experience of being in the final last year
put him at a slight advantage over his rivals.
“It was a fantastic final line up of chefs competing, so to say I
was confident wouldn’t be right, but I knew if I did what I could do, I
would do well.
“I think the experience of the first competition taught me that
I shouldn’t be elaborate or complex, but to keep it simple,” says
Bateman.
So for his starter he chose to do an oyster panna cotta with
scallop and apple tartare and a chilled celeriac consommé, a dish
which was the culmination of some degree of strategic thinking.
“The judges are tasting eight different people’s dishes and it can
get a bit too much, so what you really want is something vibrant and
fresh, and cold often delivers that to the palette,” explains Bateman.
“It had to be a seafood starter so I decided to do something
really fresh, really clean and clear. I wanted it to sing of the sea: when
you put the spoon in your mouth it’s like you’re in the harbour and the
boats are just coming in.”
“ I think a lot of chefs don’t eat out, but
it’s inspirational, it’s refreshing, it’s
reinvigorating when you eat at someone
else’s restaurant. “
RUSSELL BATEMAN
His main course of toasted veal sweetbreads seasoned with
garam masala and served with saag aloo (“I used turnip instead of
potato to tie in with the garam masala so it was more harmonious”)
was equally designed to resonate with the judging panel.
“My thought process behind it was that chefs love offal, and
sweetbreads are invariably a favourite, plus everyone loves a good
curry because it’s packed full of flavour.
“If you use curry spices in the right way, you can offer more
flavour from simplicity,” says Bateman.
Dessert, which had to be made using chocolate from the
Cacao Barry range, was a take on Bateman’s favourite sweet treat,
a rocky road; his elegant, highly technical version consisted of a
milk chocolate ganache, frozen dark chocolate mousse, whipped
white chocolate flavoured with cinnamon, fig and port purée, and
marshmallows made with port.
“Whenever I go to Starbucks I just love a rocky road with my cup
of tea. I love the difference in textures – it’s soft, chewy, crunchy –
and the chocolatey and fruity flavours,” says Bateman.
“I wanted all those flavours and contrasting textures in my
dessert. I wanted a chilled element too, so I made a dark chocolate
mousse, piped it and froze it, which was much safer in a competition
than making an ice cream or sorbet.”
Both Bateman’s winning starter and dessert now feature on
the menu at Colette’s, and they’re already proving a real hit with
customers.
“We had some regulars who came in twice last week and,
although it’s not advertised on the menu that these are my
competition dishes, both times they ordered the oyster pannacotta
and the rocky road dessert and they said they were two of the best
dishes they had ever had,” says Bateman proudly.
“I think that the competition has helped me as a cook in
general because it’s made me focus on simplicity and flavour and not
elaborateness.
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Continued over ...
40 | CHEF TALK
“I think before, and certainly when you’re younger this tends to
happen, I tried to impress people by doing too much on a plate, when
really what this job is about is taking a prime ingredient and making the
best of it but keeping it simple.”
Working at The Grove, where Bateman has now been for five
years (“the longest I’ve ever been in a job”), he certainly has easy access
to some superb ingredients.
The walled garden in the grounds of the hotel produces a
bounty of fruits and vegetables for the kitchen, including “amazing
summer berries and the most wonderful flavoured herbs I’ve ever
tasted”.
“It certainly helps that we pick them and eat them, whereas
when you buy herbs from a supplier they’re probably two days old
before you get them – freshness is key,” adds Bateman.
That particular lesson – freshness is key – is one that was
actually learnt very early on in Bateman’s life: his grandfather grew
some of his own vegetables and a six-year-old Bateman remembers
picking and eating runner beans, beetroot, radishes and tomatoes
at their peak of freshness and flavour. Add to that the fact that his
grandfather brewed his own ale and his grandmother baked all her
own bread, and the seeds of his future career were already sewn.
“I knew I wanted to be a chef from a very, very young age. Like
any kid I went through my phases of wanting to be a footballer, racing
car driver or boxer, but then I realised I had a passion for food and that
I could earn a living from that,” recalls Bateman.
“I was sent by my school on a work experience placement
in a hotel kitchen and that was it, there was no chance I was doing
anything else after those two weeks.
“At a young age it was just awe inspiring: the skill, the love that
people were putting into what they were doing – it was manual but
it wasn’t laborious. The atmosphere in the kitchen was fantastic and
there was a really great camaraderie. It just cemented for me what I
wanted to do.”
“ That’s absolutely true of Nico – he loves
eating, he loves food. I already had that
passion too, but it definitely grew during my
time with Nico “
RUSSELL BATEMAN
And still to this day Bateman can’t think of anything he’d rather
be doing than working every day in his kitchen – apart, that is, from
eating out in other chefs’ restaurants.
“When you start earning a living as a chef you’re consumed by it,
it’s everything. But I love eating out as well.
“I think a lot of chefs don’t eat out, but it’s inspirational, it’s
refreshing, it’s reinvigorating when you eat at someone else’s
restaurant,” he enthuses.
So has Bateman eaten any memorable meals lately?
It’s not as easy now that he has an 18-month-old son, but he still
tries to get out as much as possible.
“Alyn Williams at The Westbury is a beautiful restaurant and he’s
a fantastic chef and a really, really nice man – I used to work with
him with Marcus Wareing. Tom Kerridge’s Hand and Flowers is always
fantastic – he’s a great guy and it’s a great place with a great vibe,” says
Bateman.
“However, I often end up going to my friends’ restaurants like
Bubbledogs [in Fitzrovia] and The Artichoke [in Amersham].”
And the importance for a chef of getting out of the kitchen and
into the dining room is something else Bateman learned from one of
his past employers.
“Marco Pierre White once said about Nico Ladenis that he was
the only true gastronome he knew, because he believed as much in
eating as he believed in cooking,” says Bateman. “That’s absolutely true
of Nico – he loves eating, he loves food. I already had that passion too,
but it definitely grew during my time with Nico.
“When you’re in the kitchen all the time it’s easy to forget what’s
happening on the other side of the door, where it’s so much fun and
people use a meal out to share a special occasion or to relax. “It’s
important to get yourself out there and do what the guests are doing,
and bring the joy back into your life.”
Continued over ...
42 | CHEF TALK 4342 | CHEF TALK
ROCKY ROAD
By Russell Bateman
INGREDIENTS
whipped white chocolate: 175g boiled double cream 75g white chocolate 1 cinnamon stickPinch of Maldon
chocolate mousse:100g Madirofolo 65% 25g sugar 3 egg yolks3 egg whites 50g sugar50g double cream
almond tuille:75g sugar 75g glucose75g roasted crushed almonds 25g almonds in the pan with left over caramel
Ghana ganache:100g Ghana chocolate 40% 125g double cream 40g butter
fig purée:160g fig 50g Port10g glucose50g water
Port marshmallow:125g sugar 10g Port10g iced water 2 leaves gelatine30g egg whites
yoghurt jelly:100g Greek yoghurt 100ml milk 20g sugar10g iced water 2 leaves gelatine
METHOD
whipped white chocolate:1. Bring cream and cinnamon
to the boil pass through a fine sieve onto the chocolate and salt.
2. Lightly mix together3. Leave to chill on ice in fridge.4. Once chilled whisk to a soft
peak.
chocolate mousse: 1. Melt the Madirofolo chocolate
in a heat proof bowl over a pan of simmering water.
2. Once melted, off the heat, whisk in the egg yolks and sugar.
3. In an electric mixer make a French meringue using the egg whites and remaining sugar.
4. Separately, soft whip the double cream.
5. Beat one third of the meringue into the chocolate mixture.
6. Once fully incorporated, fold in the remaining meringue then fold the cream into the chocolate mixture and place in a piping bag to set in the fridge.
7. Once set pipe small dots onto a tray and freeze. Use as necessary.
almond tuille: 1. Bake the almonds in the oven
until golden brown.2. Place the glucose and the
sugar into a dry, heavy bottom pan and take to a light caramel.
3. Once at the light caramel stage, pour out onto a non-stick baking mat to set.
4. Add 25g of almonds to the remaining caramel in the pan.
5. Stir until coated and pour onto a separate mat.
6. Once the first caramel is set, place into a blender with the remaining nuts and blitz to a fine powder.
7. Dust this powder over a non-stick tray and bake in the oven at 170°C for 6 minutes.
8. Once out, cut to required shape with a metal ring.
Ghana ganache: 1. Bring the cream to the boil
and pour over the chocolate.2. Stir the cream and chocolate
together until fully incorporated.
3. Stir in the butter, thoroughly.4. Once the butter has been
completely absorbed by the chocolate mix, pour into rings to set.
fig purée: 1. Place everything into a pan
and cook down until figs are soft and glazed.
2. Place in a food processor and blend until smooth.
3. Remove and pass through a fine sieve.
Port marshmallow: 1. Soak the gelatine in ice water.2. Place the egg whites into an
electric whisk bowl and slowly whisk.
3. While the whites are whisking add the water, port and sugar to a heavy bottom pan.
4. Take the sugar mix to 127°C then remove from the heat and add the gelatine.
5. Pour, in a slow drizzle, into your egg whites, whilst still whisking.
6. Continue whisking until room temperature, then place into a piping bag.
7. Pipe onto a non-stick tray and leave at room temperature to set.
yoghurt jelly: 1. Soak the gelatine in iced
water.2. Bring the milk and sugar to
the boil and pour onto the yoghurt then whisk together thoroughly.
3. Mix the gelatine into the yoghurt mixture, and pour onto a tray to set in the fridge.
4. Once set dice the jelly.
NEW FOODSBob Salmon looks at some of the effects of the current
revision of the EU Novel Foods Regulation.
HEALTH & SAFETY
44
ister found that germs on people
coming into his hospital made
even patients unwell, so he sprayed
everyone coming through the
doors with phenol (carbolic acid).
Infection in the hospital dropped dramatically,
but the procedure had an unfortunate effect
on visitors. Dr Lister’s intention was good,
but luckily we have found alternative ways of
combating infections since his day.
So what is a “novel food”?The regulation EC 258/97 defines it as
one that has not been “used for human
consumption to a significant degree within
the EU before 15 May 1997”. That includes
genetically modified ingredients and other
new foods as specified in the regulation
text. But of course the definition includes
traditional foods imported from countries
outside the EU. The system is obviously
not working as there have only been 33
applications approved since 1997, and a
glance around many food shops exposes the
word “new” on many labels. They proposed
an amended regulation in 2008 but could not
agree it, because of how to label meat from
cloned animals, so currently there is some
debate and new regulations are on the way
Let us be clear on what a ‘novel food’
is. It is not a new way of serving traditional
products. So curry flavoured ice cream would
not be a novel food. A ‘novel food’ is an
ingredient that has not been used in Europe
to a significant extent. There was a case
recently when an application was made for a
product that has been used in cosmetics but
was being proposed for use in a food. After a
number of years of work by the officials, it was
found they were looking at a slightly different
product and so had to start all over again.
The answer should have been to market the
product as a food ingredient outside Europe
for a while then, the regulation says, there
is a minimal approval system. On the other
hand they have also said that “the fact that a
food has been consumed for many years in
another country should not be assumed to
mean it is safe”. They still need approval. The
regulation talks about nano and GM products.
So rest assured that your original creations
using accepted ingredients and served to
customers do not breach the regulation. Chia
seeds, stevia leaves and mesquite are novel
but ginseng and Goji berries are not. Neither
are insects and whole animals as they were
not included in the 1997 text. You can find out
more at www.food.gov.uk/science/novel/faqs
Costs to businessDiscussion at the European Parliament in early
October saw allegations that the regulation
stymied development of new products in
Europe. Now this could be true, as even the
proposed rules say you must submit your
product to EFSA (who will take no more than
nine months to do an assessment) following
which, the European Commission would
need a further nine months to prepare their
proposal which would be sent to a “Standing
Committee” for ratification. There is no time
limit for ratification. This nativity type delay will
put many producers off as they will be worried
that someone else could copy their ideas
while this process is going on. Remember
a producer has paid a lot to develop new a
product and he wants to reap the benefits
from that research himself. Government
testing facilities may not be commercially
secure. It is no surprise that research and
development expenditure in the food
manufacturing industry is quoted at only 1.5%.
Where you get statements in the regulation
that say “The Commission shall forward to
member states without delay a copy of the
summary provided by the applicant....” you
can anticipate publicity.
Should assessment be centralised?The proposal for a central assessment place
for the whole of Europe may be attractive to
bureaucrats. But is it necessary? Why cannot
member state authorities do the assessment
for one of their companies and then tell the
other member states that the new stuff is safe.
All the regulation demands is that any new
stuff is “safe” – although it does add that it
should not mislead consumers and should
be properly labelled. As these requirements
are reproduced in the general food safety
rules and the labelling rules, there seems to
be some duplication here. The word “stuff”
may need some clarification. The regulation
actually excludes things like food additives
and flavourings but does include foods or
ingredients that have been produced by a new
production process.
So is there really a need for a revised Novel Foods Regulation?
We have made significant progress since
Lister’s time, but are we now just as guilty of
overkill as he was in his hospital? In fact we
now use the aliphatic – not the aromatic –
hydroxide for sterilisation. It does not smell
so much and, anyway, many people drink
it. Then is there really a significant risk from
new products? Surely the hazard of ‘damages’
or ‘compensation’ if a firm gets their new
product wrong is enough to stimulate
comprehensive testing before the product is
ever publicised? Then all the local authority
has to do is to check the firm’s research – If
that is satisfactory, then the European Food
Safety Authority (EFSA) can tell all the other
member states. Earlier this year the UK FSA
closed its door to applications but had to
open it again a few weeks later from demand.
They do not publish a list of applications.
Could even EFSA cope, when they currently
have 2165 health and nutrition claims to
sort out? You can find out more at www.
foodregsmonitor.org about what we are
trying to do with your help.
At the recent discussion in the
European Parliament, some doubt was
thrown on the assumption that the costs
and delays in achieving authorisation were
really inhibiting innovation and development.
There was a demand for ‘facts’. The fact
that several firms were reluctant to invest in
development, quoting the costs and delays,
may not mean they are a universal deterrent.
It is a fact that only thirty three products being
approved in seventeen years perhaps speaks
for itself. What small business could afford
the proposed procedure? When writing EN
Standards we always pose the question “Have
there been any reports of this happening? If
not then we will not make up rules to prevent
it”. Perhaps someone needs to curb the desire
to keep writing regulations as if they are going
to eliminate all risks. The original text called
for a review not later than 2002 and they are
just doing it in 2014. That says a lot.
www.food-solutions.org
“ Let us be clear on what a ‘novel food’ is. It is not a new way of serving traditional products. So curry flavoured ice cream would not be a novel food. A ‘novel food’ is an
ingredient that has not been used in Europe to a significant extent. ”
BOB SALMON
45
Monika Wisniewska/shutterstock.com
An innovative wine event to showcase wines from the southern
hemisphere took place in London in September 2014. The Wines of the
Beautiful South is a partnership event, now in its second year, with a
serious mission. The focus of this trade event was to sell wines from
three countries over two days at the Olympia exhibition centre on
Hammersmith Road.
W I N E S
Martin Kaiser, Viticulturist at Dona Paula
46 47
Continued over ...
OF THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH
he event was co-organised
by three generic bodies,
Wines of Argentina,
Wines of Chile and
Wines of South Africa.
Winery representatives,
winemakers, viticulturists
and sales people from all three countries
travelled en masse to London to sell their
wines. Argentina was well represented with 70
participating wineries; Chile had 67 and South
Africa topped the bill with a whopping 130
wineries, a reflection of the global importance
of the UK market.
At the show, I met Siobhan Thompson
the new CEO of WOSA (Wines of South
Africa) for an overview about the market
and this event. Siobhan succeeded Su
Birch (2003-2014) as Director of WOSA in
November 2013, having previously worked for
twelve years for Distill, one of South Africa’s
biggest wine companies, as a marketing and
brand manager.
Siobhan told me that the recovery for
South African wine in the UK is definitely
starting to happen. It is driven by premium
his life’s passions. In July 1974, he set up a
travel business in Twickenham, specialising
in sport related travel. His company grew
into the world’s largest sports tour operators
handing more than 12,500 passengers a
year. In November 2008 after nearly 35 years
in the travel trade, he sold the company
and purchased a 400 acre farm in Voor
Paardeberg, in Paarl in South Africa’s Western
Cape. His premium South African wine is now
available in the UK.
Doran’s style is to focus on the quality
of their fruit, this combined with judicious
use of oak, means that the wines have great
length and style. His 2013 Doran Vineyard
Chenin Blanc made from old bush vines won
a Silver Medal at the 2014 Decanter awards
and is a fine example of what South African
Chenin is capable of. This is an elegant
wine with lots of mineral character on the
nose and palate but with tons of fruit and
zesty lively freshness that will appeal to the
consumer who loves acidity. This is new style
South Africa, merging old world with new to
create wines that can be confidently added to
any restaurant wine list.
wineries doing a lot of focussed work on
the UK market. South African producers are
working hard to sell their quality wines in
the mid to upper price category. The market
figures indicates this is starting to happen
with UK sales figures for the third quarter
to September 2014 showing sales of South
African wine in the UK on-trade growing in
value by +2%. Source: WSTA Market Report
Sept 2014.
With white wine sales accounting
for 54% of the colour category in terms
of on-trade, this augurs well for South
Africa who have a comprehensive range
of white varietals such as Chenin Blanc,
Semillion, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc
as well as good quality sparkling wines all
of which offer a point of difference, which
is an important factor for any innovative
restaurant wine list.
A case in point is Doran Vineyards, a
small boutique producer of South African
wine, who commutes between South Africa
and Middlesex. Edwin Doran was born in
Ireland and went to Belvedere College where
he was first introduced to sport, one of
Another South African star is Paul Cluver
Wines, another family estate with a very
interesting back story. Paul Cluver established
the estate in Elgin Valley where he pioneered
winemaking in this small cool climate region.
With a strong ethical focus which began in
the 1960’s the estate pioneered fair trade
principals long before they were fashionable
and through turbulent times in South Africa.
Today the wine estate is all about conversation
and has been awarded Biodiversity in Wine
Champion status.
Other awards include Drinks Business
Green Award Lifetime Achievement and
Nedbank Green award for Best Environmental
Farming Practises. Paul Cluver’s wines are
stunning and would be an asset on any list.
The white wines in the range include 2014
Paul Cluver Sauvignon Blanc made from
86% Sauvignon Blanc and 14% Semillon with
lovely green asparagus aromas but with subtle
mineral tones. The quality is excellent and this
will definitely appeal to the customer who
loves good quality acidic white wines. The
2014 Paul Cluver Riesling is another star,
bone dry it is very fruit forward and the palate
is marked by a crisp acidity with tones of
underlying lemon/lime fruit. Paul Cluver wines
are distributed in the UK by Seckford Agencies.
Turning next to Chile at one of the
innovative themed tables (there were four)
called Tales of the Unexpected, I tasted a few
very different wine styles which prove that
Chile can innovate with the best. A Sauvignon
Gris from Vina Leyda was really wonderful.
There is great debate as to which came first,
Sauvignon Gris or Sauvignon Blanc, both are
of the same parentage with the Gris showing
slightly more refined acidity. Vina Leyda is
part of the VSPT Wine Group (Vina San Pedro)
distributed in the UK by Bibendum Wine.
The 2013 Vina Leyda Single Vineyard
Kadun Sauvignon Gris a whole new take
on Sauvignon Gris and shows the superb
quality of fruit this emerging Chilean cool
climate region is capable of producing.
This Sauvignon Gris has more rounded fruit
flavours and is less acidic than its more
popular cousin. With sales of Sauvignon
increasing by +10% overall on the UK market,
the demand for this wine style shows little
sign of abating.
Siobhan Thompson, CEO of
WOSA (Wines of South Africa)
48 | WINES
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
www.winesofthebeautifulsouth.com
Andrew Maidment:
amaidment@winesofargentina.com
Anita Jackson:
Anita@winesofchile.org.uk
www.winesofchile.org
Jo Wehring:
jo@winesofsa.com
www.doranvineyards.co.za
www.seckfordagencies.co.uk
www.libertywines.co.uk
www.berkmann.co.uk
www.bottlegreenwines.com
www.hallgartendruit.co.uk
Cabernet Franc also proved its
credentials on the Tales of the Unexpected
table, the 2012 Santa Rita Floresta Cabernet
Franc from their top quality Pumanque
vineyard in Colchagua Valley was simply
outstanding, proving that as a single varietal
this grape variety holds enormous potential
for Chile. Santa Rita is available from
Berkmann Wine Cellars.
Another name to watch from Chile is
Anakena, a relatively new winery whose MD
Ricardo Letelier was formerly head of Wines
of Chile. Anakena is distributed by Bottle
Green.
They have some outstanding wines in
their range including the 2012 Tama Viognier
from Cachapoal Valley, the 2013 Enco Pinot
Noir from Leyda, which shows that Leyda
is also the go to region for cool climate red
grapes. Anakena also had a very well made
blended red wine the 2011 ONA made from
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere
and 20% Syrah which although young, is
showing its class. They also had a late harvest
wine made from a blend of 85% Viognier and
15% Gewurztrainer the 2012 Anakena Late
Harvest, lots of lime marmalade flavours, just
made to go with blue cheese.
In keeping with the point of difference
theme and Chilean wine, honourable mention
to Montes who are innovating and sourcing
wines from cooler more far flung regions
to the north and south of the central valley.
Carlos Serrano Export Director with Montes
Wines took me through their Outer Limits
range. This new wine range features wines
from outside Colchagua Valley where the
Montes winery is based.
Their 2014 Montes Outer Limits
Sauvignon Blanc is made from fruit grown in
Aconcagua. They also have a good Sauvignon
from Leyda and an excellent Pinot Noir from
Aconcagua. The stand out wine for me was
the 2014 Montes Outer Limits Cinsault made
from fruit grown in Itata which is about as
far south as you can go in terms of wine
regions in Chile. This wine is made from 100
year old vines and although rustic in style has
enormous concentration and is a very refined
and very well made wine. Put this on your list
and watch the wine enthusiasts snap it up.
Montes is distributed by Liberty Wines.
Argentina is currently enjoying double
digit growth in the on trade with figures
to Sept 2014 showing an increase of +12%
for sales of its wines. Argentina by country
of origin in the on-trade is currently in 8th
position but growing fast.
On day two of the show I met with
Martin Kaiser who is the Viticulturist at Dona
Paula one of Argentina’s top wineries. Martin
gave a technical presentation on the effects
that soil structure and topography have
on flavour profiles of Malbec from specific
regions in Mendoza. Although Argentina
has a continental climate there are two key
factors that impact on the quality of their fruit
and they are latitude and altitude. Altitude in
Mendoza varies from 600 metres to 1,500
metres above sea level. The higher the
altitude of the vineyard the cooler the region.
For every 165 metre increase the average
temperature of the vineyard decreased by
1 degree.
We tasted a range of Malbecs from
the Dona Paula Estate, focussing first on the
different vineyard altitudes. In the cooler
regions the tannin is more apparent in the
warmer regions the tannin and spice are
enhanced. It soon became apparent that the
higher you go the more structure you find
and the greater the acidity. Martin carried out
the same blind tasting process, though this
time with a focus on different soil structures
from areas such as Rivadavia, Santa Maria,
Guatallary and Uco Valley. Again, a very clear
distinction could be found in terms of the
descriptors used, where there was more sand
and loam soil the red fruit was enhanced and
clay soil gave the black fruit more focus.
Back at the Dona Paula stand I tasted
the 2014 Los Cardos Malbec from Lujan de
Cuyo a warmer region. Here the red fruit and
spice stood out in what was a very well made
wine. The 2013 Dona Paula Estate Malbec
from Uco Valley was all spice and black fruit,
this barrel aged wine shows why Argentina is
fast increasing its market share. Dona Paula
is distributed by Hallgarten Druitt & Novum
Wines.
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5150 51
FRONT OF HOUSE
asciaga is a true master of the art of service, so you may think it’s not
before time that he’s published a book through which to share his
philosophy and passion. However, ‘The Diego Masciaga Way’, published
this month (November), wasn’t his idea at all; in fact, Masciaga had never
even considered writing a book until he was approached by business
consultant and author Chris Parker, who, unbeknownst to him, had been
observing the maestro at work. “Chris gave me a call one morning and said he’d been to the
Waterside Inn a few times and he’d love to write a book about me,” recalls the silver haired,
sharp-suited Italian. “I had to ask Monsieur Roux first, but I agreed on one condition – that Chris
didn’t even ask me about names of guests or gossip, because that’s not me. He said all he wanted
to write about was my philosophy on performance and service, but general service, not just in
restaurants and hotels.”
Masciaga, who has been the front of house face of Michel and Alain Roux’s Waterside Inn
in Bray, Berkshire, since 1988, was happy with that proposition, and over a period of about 18
months, through regular meetings with Parker (“who was able to read inside my mind”), the book
gradually came to fruition.
The end result is both a tribute to Masciaga’s character and pursuit of professional
excellence (there are heartwarming endorsements from the likes of Heston Blumenthal, Michel
Roux and entrepreneur Peter Jones), and an indispensable manual for anyone working in a
customer facing role. Indeed, before the book had even hit the shelves, Masciaga says it was
attracting interest from multinational companies keen to apply its lessons – covering recruitment
and training, leadership, delivering outstanding service and maintaining consistency – to staff in
their own businesses outside of the hospitality arena.
Masciaga says: “The key business message in the book is that
if you deliver good customer service, people will come back to you
because you’ve gained their trust and, of course, your revenue will
go up.”
Although he is thrilled the book is attracting wide interest in
the business world, his biggest hope is that it will become a useful
reference for hospitality students. “My dream is that some catering
school or university might like the book and use it a little bit for their
students.
“If some young waiters just entering the profession just read a
little bit, then maybe they will understand what is service; technique
is technique, but if you don’t have the right attitude, if you don’t get
pleasure from pleasing people, you won’t deliver good service.”
He adds: “One of the hardest things with service is that you
have to perform 100 per cent every day. Sometimes in my life I’ve had
difficulties at home, but when I enter The Waterside the actor has to
perform – the clients are not here to know my problems, they are here
to have a good time, and so I have to be very positive 100 per cent of the time.”
'The Diego Masciaga Way – Lessons From The Master of Customer Service' is available from
Amazon, Waterstones, Daunt Books, Foyles, the Waterside Inn shop and Wordery.com
Diego Masciaga:master of his art
For those in the hospitality business, the name needs no introduction:
Diego Masciaga OMRI, MCA, longstanding maitre d’ (and director) at the
Waterside Inn – the only restaurant in the UK to have held three Michelin
stars for over 25 years – is a front-of-house legend.
“ Technique is technique,
but if you don’t have
the right attitude, if
you don’t get pleasure
from pleasing people,
you won’t deliver good
service. “
DIEGO MASCIAGA
EGG: A CULINARY EXPLORATION OF THE WORLD’S MOST VERSATILE INGREDIENTby Michael RuhlmanJaqui Small £25Publication date March 2014ISBN: 978 1 909342 85 9
For Michael Ruhlman, the question is not whether the chicken or the egg came first, it’s how anything could be accomplished in the kitchen without the magic of the common egg. He starts with perfect poached and scrambled eggs and builds up to brioche and Italian meringue. Along the way readers learn to make their own mayonnaise, pasta, custards, quiches, cakes, and other preparations that rely fundamentally on the hidden powers of the egg.
A unique framework for the book is provided in Ruhlman’s egg flowchart, which starts with the whole egg at the top and branches out to describe its many uses and preparations - boiled, pressure-cooked, poached, fried, coddled, separated, worked into batters and doughs, and more. A removable illustrated flowchart is included with the book.
BACON – RECIPES FOR CURING, SMOKING AND EATINGby Theresa GilliamJaqui Small LLP £25.00Publication date October 2014ISBN: 978 1 909342 78 1
Bacon every which way, whatever time of day. A collection of recipes from the conventional, to the experimental and slightly whacky – bacon baklava – all with one common ingredient.... bacon. Theresa Gilliam brings us dishes that challenge the perception that the best way to eat bacon is in a sandwich for breakfast, opening up a whole array of flavour combinations – whatever time of day it may be – even a bacon Manhattan....
WILD FRUIT - A FIELD GUIDE TO BRITAIN AND EUROPEby Alain & Marie-Jeanne GeneveTimber Press £20.00Publication date September 2014ISBN: 978 1 604695 86 1
One for the foragers, this book details 220 species of wild fruit and berries in the UK and around Europe, with plant descriptions, medicinal notes, nutritional values and 20 or so recipes.
THE BEEF CLUBby Olivier Bon, Pierre-Charles & Romee GoriainoffHardie Grant Books £25Publication date October 2014ISBN: 978 1 742708 03 4
The trio behind the Experimental Group have collaborated with their Head Chef at The Beef Club in Paris, Stephane Cunin, to produce this
collection of classic dishes and cocktails with a contemporary touch. From the perfect barbequed steak, whatever cut you may prefer, and numerous sauces to accompany it, through a sea bass ceviche, udders tongue and tripe to scones and rum babas, all rounded off with
an eclectic collection of cocktails – this book offers something whatever your skill level may be. Simple layout and atmospheric photography.
COOKING THE BOOKS
This issue we look at two books
devoted to single ingredients: ‘egg’
– considered to be the world’s most
versatile ingredient – and ‘bacon’ –
apparently more versatile than you
may have thought....
We also have the first book from
Masterchef’s Adam Handling
and a homage to beef (and other
ingredients) in a book from the team
behind The Beef Club in Paris.
Our pick of the issue is Hidden
Chefs – a collection of recipes from
the chefs of Restaurant Associates.
SMILE OR GET OUT OF THE KITCHENby Adam HandlingMeze Publishing £25.00Publication date Sept 2014ISBN: 978 0 9928981 2 0
Launched to coincide with the opening of his restaurant at Caxton, Adam Handling’s book centres on his flair for unusual combinations of classic ingredients, often with an Asian twist. ‘My dishes have to be tasty – I want diners to be knocked over by the flavours from their first mouthful of food.’
Each with a ‘taste profile’, the 70 or so recipes of starters, veg, fish, meat and desserts illustrate Handling’s understanding of ingredients, flavours and balance.
Clearly laid out and and well photographed with a foreword by Monica Galetti – ‘He was, for me always, the one to watch!’.
53
MY TOP SIX FAVOURITE
RESTAURANTS
GILLES BRAGARD
Founder of the Club
des chefs des chefs
Author of Chefs des Chefs
(Editions du moment NOV 2013)
In no particular order
6 P I P E R N OSuperb and generous roman
cuisine is found in this
traditional trattoria, located in
the Ghetto near Trastevere:
Artichokes “a la judia”, Tripes
“a la romana”, beef tail … and
a beautiful selection of pasta!
A very friendly atmosphere in
one of the oldest restaurants
in Rome, which is a favorite
destination of many roman
families and a “monument” of
traditional Italian cuisine.
Monte dé Cenci, 9 Roma
ristorantepiperno.it
L’A M I J E A NIn an authentic 195O’s bistro,
chef owner, Stephane JEGO,
in his kitchen open to the
dining room, is cooking, with
love and originality, traditional
french dishes as well as creative
dishes. The products chosen
by Stephane JEGO are selected
from the best products of the
french “terroir” and respect
the seasons. L’Ami Jean is
an absolute must for the
“Bistronomy” in Paris.
27, rue Malar 75007 Paris, France
lamijean.fr
A L A I N D U C A S S E AT T H E D O R C H E S T E RAlain DUCASSE at The
DORCHESTER: two names
which make you dream: a
superb restaurant and an
outstanding “cuisine”, which
privileges the products. Chef
Jocelyn Herland is working
wonders, and the service is
excellent – that combination
makes, for me, the best
gastronomic restaurant of
London and one of the best
showcases of Alain DUCASSE.
The Dorchester, Park Lane,
London W1K 1QA
alainducasse-dorchester.com
H A K K A S A NMy favorite “asian” restaurant
in Europe. The combination
of asian flavors and western
touches is a success. The
decor (Christian Liaigre) is
outstanding and creates a
young and friendly atmosphere.
Chef Tong Chee Hwee offers a
wide choice of contemporary
chinese cuisine and very
interesting tasting menus.
Hakkasan Mayfair, 17 Bruton
Street, London W1J 6QB
hakkasan.com
L E B E R N A R D I NMy favorite place in New
York, either for a business
lunch or a family dinner. Eric
Rippert is a fantastic chef –
his cuisine is creative with a
traditional background . For
lovers of fishes and sea food,
it’s the perfect place: highest
quality ingredients, beautiful
presentation, superb service,
stunning ambiance: all that you
except from a 3 star restaurant.
155 West 51st Street,
New York 10019
le-bernardin.com
M A I S O N B O U L U D AT T H E R I T Z C A R LT O NA very warm atmosphere in
one of the best addresses of
the Daniel BOULUD collection!
Chef Riccardo BERTOLINO
offers a fantastic and traditional
french cuisine, with modern
accents, and excellent local
ingredients. Each dish is
balanced and light with a very
nice presentation. The desserts
are also excellent and the
service is friendly and efficient.
1228 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest
danielboulud.com/maison-
boulud-montreal
Hakkasan Alain Ducasse
Daniel Boulud
Le Bernardin
© D
anie
l Kri
eg
er
Maison Boulud
© A
lexa
nd
re P
are
nt
© D
anie
l Kri
eg
er
54 55
A cookbook with a difference, this book not only highlights the
chefs in London that you don’t often hear about – the ones that
are keeping the banks, media agencies and law firms supremely
well-fed and watered. But once you start turning the pages, you
realise you’ve discovered a hidden gem. Full of inspiring recipes,
ranging from the more complex in the fine dining chapter to
simpler recipes in the casual dining section.
If you’re an accomplished home cook, ready to raise your
game but 5 or so components in a dish may be a little too far,
the layout makes it easy to select just one element. For example
the tomato crisp garnish on top of the luxurious looking Tomato
salad may be calling out to you, the clear method makes it
straightforward to pick out just that part of the recipe if you
prefer. As Ana Paula Oliver says of her Pistachio cake which has
several delicious serving suggestions, ‘If you want something
simpler just make the cake and serve with one of the creams’.
Of course you can also get your precision kit out and have the
satisfaction of completely immersing yourself in a more intricate
recipe in its entirety.
The photography is stunning, the close up, dramatic shots in
the fine dining section, not only add to the theatre and luxurious
quality of this type of cooking but they also make it easy to see
each component.
This book is more than a collection of recipes; by its nature it
also holds lots of chefs tips and techniques for presentation and
finishing dishes with flair.
As the contributing chefs are often working to larger scale
catering, the recipes surprisingly scale down really well and have
an element of practicality about them. From a keen home cook
to food service professionals this book is a must. Great to have to
hand when you’re searching for that little nugget of inspiration.
Those hidden chefs definitely need to come out more!
PICK OF THE ISSUE
COOKING THE BOOKS
HIDDEN CHEFSby Jeremy FordPublished by Chef MediaPublication date 25th September 2014ISBN: 97811908202192
Sample Spread from Hidden Chefs
THE CHEF MAGAZINE COOKBOOK
£40.00
PROVISIONAL TITLE
RELEASE DATE: NOVEMBER 2014
32 INSPIRATIONAL CHEFS£30.00
36 INSPIRATIONAL CHEFS£30.00
99 INSPIRATIONAL CHEFS£99.00
CHEFS AT HOME DESSERTS£20.00
PROVISIONAL TITLE
RELEASE DATE: NOVEMBER 2014
HIDDEN CHEFS OF LONDON£35.00
BREAD BY ARTISAN BAKER THIERRY DUMOUCHEL
£25.00
LA SCALA – ITALIAN RECIPES FROM MAURIZIO MENCONI
£20.00
CAKETAILS – CUPCAKES FOR GROWNUPS
£12.99
NEW RELEASE
NEW RELEASE
AT LAST THE COOKBOOK YOU HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR! Chef Magazine are publishing their carefully selected top recipes originally published in Issues 1 to 33.
This compendium of recipes from many of the industries leading lights is a must have addition to any chef's library.
30% discount on all Chef Books!Offer ends soon**Offer ends November 30th 2014
CHEF BOOKS IS A FAST GROWING PUBLISHING
HOUSE WITH A SPECIALITY FOR PRODUCING
HIGH-END COOKBOOKS
www.chefmedia.co.uk/collections/books
RECIPES FOR LIFE£25.00
I ♥ CHOCOLATE£25.00 JOHN SLATTERY’S
CREATIVE CHOCOLATE£25.00
A WORLD OF CHOCOLATESTANDARD (AVAILABLE IN 12
LANGUAGES)£25.OO
WINNER GOURMAND
WORLD COOKBOOK AWARDS
OCEAN VOYAGE£30.00
CHOCOLATE TO SAVOUR£70.00
NIGEL HAWORTH’S OBSESSION£35.00
AT HOME WITH NIGEL HAWORTH AND FRIENDS
£25.00
CHOCOLATE TO SAVOUR£70.00
RECIPES FROM THE SEA£25.00
ALL BOOKS AVAILABLE FROM
WWW.CHEFMEDIA.CO.UK
www.chefmedia.co.uk/collections/books
Chef Education
MattersGARY HUNTER
CHEF TRAINING
58 59
It seems wholly inadequate to attempt to fully discuss the issues
of chef training and education in one article for this magazine.
Although the issue at stake here is as much a problem for the
United Kingdom, it does seem that across the globe there
are differing solutions and answers to the question of how to
adequately train people to become chefs, and go on to further
their education in this line of work.
“ The fact that young cooks
are offered their first head
chef role in their early 20’s
with very limited experience,
based on the fact that they
can produce and present
some food on a plate, does
not prepare them well for a
management role. “
GARY HUNTER
am not sure that anyone has the perfect answer and we need to fully
comprehend the data, research, history and future industry needs before we
can shape the resolution for this challenge.
What needs to be understood is that the current system we have in the
United Kingdom works to a certain point, but is totally ineffective in specific
key areas. The fact that young cooks are offered their first head chef role in
their early 20’s with very limited experience, based on the fact that they can produce
and present some food on a plate, does not prepare them well for a management
role. Over a hundred years ago, Auguste Escoffier, Herman Senn and Cesar Ritz
sat on a committee, in central London, to debate the problem of a lack of school
leavers entering the hospitality industry and the chronic shortage of chefs (have times
changed since then?). Together they formed the first professional culinary school in
the United Kingdom, designed specifically to teach the skills of professional cuisine
and food and beverage service. It is typical of the visionary personality of Escoffier
himself, who quickly embraced this idea as a way to bridge the gap of new recruits to
the industry and was also trained in the art of professional cookery and food service.
Now there are over 190 catering colleges across the country adopting this model,
represented by PACE (Professional Association for Catering Education), and delivering
in excess of 20,000 graduates into the United Kingdom hospitality industry per year.
The further education system works incredibly well across many different
vocational areas and is seemingly used progressively by successive Governments as
a political ‘kitchen-broom’ to brush up the failings of the school education system
and catch those who are unemployed to retrain and adapt to new careers. Colleges
now deliver GCSE qualifications in English and mathematics to those students who
were not able to adequately achieve during their school years – this is alongside their
chosen vocational study of choice. Heavy funding penalties are in place for those
colleges who do not meet the targets in this area, and colleges increasingly have to
deliver this mainstream education alongside chef training, which directly impinges on
teaching hours in the kitchen.
Traineeships and apprenticeships are widely regarded as being the ‘silver bullet’
to end the perceived skills gap for chef training. Germany has long used this successful
system, with apprenticeships taking up to five years to complete, with the industry
working closely with colleges to deliver up to date skills to the benefit of the student,
the longevity of their career and the industry that employs and supports them. Too
often our apprenticeship system is viewed as a short term association – to train
someone to do a job, and not to deliver essential skills any further than the current
kitchen’s menu – however complex or simple that menu is. This is not training for the
benefit of the industry and certainly not the individual and their perceived career. A
long term solution is required that is simple to deliver and is not governed by a poor
funding mechanism that penalises those delivering high standards of training and
education.
Another question is whether the higher education system is failing the
hospitality sector too? Accusatory comments from a well known restaurateur recently
have heralded a few column inches in the trade press. But if you look beyond the
propaganda and ego of this hyperbole, you may well find that this perception is not
wide of the mark. There are currently 61 universities offering hospitality, leisure and
tourism degrees, but very few are culinary based, and none of these universities
is ranked in the United Kingdom top twenty. So where are the solid culinary arts
degrees that deliver highly skilled, business minded, entrepreneurial and free-thinking
graduates to our industry? These same graduates could become the future leaders
of our industry, with the capacity to really drive our economy and agenda to make
our future Governments sit up and take notice of the importance of this professional
hospitality industry. But they will only do so if we truly value education at all its levels
and embrace the concept of a real, and respected, educational progression.
Our university system is still the most highly regarded in the world and we need
some of these top powerhouses of learning to develop culinary degrees to correspond
with their academic rigour and progressive teaching. Maybe this would help put an
end to our young and talented cooks being slaughtered in their first head chef post,
because they do not have the knowledge
to manage people, systems, control costs
and think with a business approach to their
kitchen and restaurant.
To sum up, it is apparent that
our training and education systems for
producing good, qualified graduates for
this industry requires a fresh look and some
serious financial investment from both the
Government and more significantly from the
industry. The role of FE Colleges continues to
be flexible to match the targets of Whitehall
and to try to balance this with the needs of
industry. The apprenticeship scheme requires
a lot of academic input at planning level to
ensure that our apprentices have a ‘career
for life’ as opposed to a ‘job for now’. Too
many self appointed committees with vested
interests are determining the future of this
training programme without engaging the
silent majority of the industry, or the people
who deliver education.
To also have a top British university
plan, and establish a faculty in culinary arts
– to deliver the kind of entrepreneurial and
free-thinking spirit that ensures we continue
to dominate the world in engineering, the
sciences and the arts – would lead the way
for other higher education institutes to
connect with. I regularly engage with some of
the reputable universities currently delivering
these types of skills in Switzerland, Korea
and the USA. I know that we can deliver a far
better education – to also be the envy of the
world – and deliver a new found regard and
respect for this industry as a viable career
option, one that is progressive, supportive and
rewarding.
Find your next chef job with us
Visit us at www.chefquick.co.uk to find out more and to see the latest chef jobs from
across the UK
A fresh approach to chef recruitment
Join us @chefquick1 on TwitterCall us on 0141 413 4133
Get in touch via jobs@chefquick.co.uk
CHEF NEWS | 61
HILTON BIRMINGHAM METROPOLE SAVES 35% IN ENERGY WITH RATIONAL COMBI STEAMERSSelfCookingCenter’s user-friendly technology improves what we do.”
Catering for an 800 bedroom
hotel, with over 30 function and
conference rooms hosting a
stream of events for up to 1400
guests, means the 70 chefs at the
Hilton Birmingham Metropole
must be amongst the busiest in
the UK.
Recently, Executive
Chef Paul Taylor replaced
some old combi steamers
with six of the latest Rational
SelfCookingCenters, for the
banqueting kitchen. He was so
impressed that, when it came to
replacing the combination ovens
in the lounge area kitchen, he
chose SelfCookingCenters again.
The SelfCookingCenters
were installed by Fatboys
Catering of Stratford-upon-Avon.
“The Rationals help us
with the sheer volume of what
we do – we can have lunch and
dinner for 900, on top of the day
to day workload of the hotel,”
says Paul. “We use them for a
huge variety of foods, too, from
buffets for hundreds to single
a la carte dishes. They deliver
quality, quantity, consistency and
evenness of cooking.”
Breakfast is a case in
point. The SelfCookingCenter
5 Senses has a feature called
iLevelControl. This allows
different products to be cooked
at the same time, easily and with
no transfer of flavour.
Paul says that the range of
accessories that Rational offers
makes a big impact, too. The
MultiBaker tray combined with
Rational’s ‘fry eggs’ automatic
cooking process means chefs
can prepare up to 80 fried
eggs in just 90 seconds in one
combi. “It’s quicker and easier
than cooking on the stove and
the results are excellent.
“We cook up to 1500
portions of hash browns every
day for breakfast. We used to
deep fry them, now we use
the Rational and the CombiFry
basket. They come out very
good, crisp and not at all greasy.
Energy efficiency is a key
buying criteria for the Hilton
Birmingham Metrolpole and
the SelfCookingCenters are
delivering big savings. “We ran
tests that showed a 35% cut
in energy consumption with
the Rationals,” says Paul. “We
also get big savings in water
consumption, compared to our
old combis.”
Another efficiency comes
from greater yield from food.
“We use the food probe and
Rational’s pre-programmed
processes to slow cook joints.
The temperature accuracy
ensures consistency and the yield
is higher.”
With so much banqueting
at the hotel, Rational’s Finishing
feature is a big bonus. “With
plated meals, we use Finishing
to regen and the results are
excellent, with no drying out or
condensation issues.”
For information and
brochures, or to arrange to come
to a free SelfCookingCenter®
5 Senses ‘Rational CookingLive’
seminar, contact your dealer,
freephone Rational UK on
0800 389 2944 or see www.
myrational.co.uk. For product
and company information visit
www.rational-UK.com. Visit the
iPhone app store for the Rational
SCC Expert App.
he winner receives a career
changing opportunity: an all
expenses paid, three-month
stage at a 3 Michelin starred
restaurant of their choosing
anywhere in the world, as well
as many unique prizes all related to food and
hospitality.
Entrants must be in full-time
employment as a chef in the UK and be aged
22 or above, but no older than 30 on 1st
February 2015. They have until midnight on
Friday 30th January 2015 to submit a recipe
to serve four people, using: Two whole
guinea fowl, with or without giblets, weighing
anywhere between 1.2kg – 1.6 kg plus 200g
chicken livers, trimmed; served together,
plated and accompanied by two garnishes.
One garnish must include spinach leaves and
the other to be a garnish of your choice. A
sauce must accompany the dish.
Do you know the next Roux Scholar?
Important note: Entrants are not
allowed to use or bring any pre-prepared
stock or sauce whatsoever for the meat or
vegetable dish, and none will be provided.
Full details can be found in the rules on the
website which competitors must read before
entering.
Full details of the competition, rules and
the entry process are available on the website
www.rouxscholarship.co.uk
Michel Roux Jr: “Guinea fowl is one of
the most delicious treats when cooked with
care and imagination, likewise the chicken
livers can be an extravagance or disaster! I
can't wait to see what the chefs are going
to come up with. We are looking for an
imaginative recipe, respecting the ingredients,
delivering flavour and flair.”
Alain Roux: “We love the flavour and
taste of guinea fowl that lies somewhere
between chicken and the gaminess of
pheasant. The key will be to cook it perfectly,
which will be a test for the chefs, to avoid
The Roux family has revealed the details of the 2015 Roux Scholarship competition.
THE ROUX SCHOLARSHIP
Tom Barnes, The Roux Scholarship winner 2014
a dry, tough result through overcooking. I
eagerly anticipate the 2015 competition.”
The judges joining Michel and Albert
Roux and their sons Alain and Michel Jr this
year include: Andrew Fairlie, the first scholar
to win the competition and top chefs: Angela
Hartnett, James Martin, David Nicholls, Gary
Rhodes and Brian Turner.
The judges will select the best 18 recipes
from those submitted. These contestants
will be invited to cook their dish, along with
a mystery box dessert challenge at regional
finals to be held in Birmingham and London
on Thursday 12th March 2015.
The final will be held in London on
Monday 30th March 2015 and the winner
will be announced at a prestigious award
ceremony at The Mandarin Oriental Hotel,
Hyde Park that same evening.
60
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...To take the next step and publish your passion
please contact peter marshall at
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62 | CHEF NEWS
The programme involves Chefs delivering a
demonstration to a class group, engaging
with students to help prepare and cook dishes
and providing Learning Bites that support the
curriculum with topics relating specifically to
the Hospitality Industry.
“FutureChef prepares young people for
quality work and life after school by providing
employment and education opportunities in
the industry, transferable skills training, with
ongoing coaching and support.” Eddie Ward,
Mentor Chef, BaxterStorey
Chefs it is imperative to do your part to
help your industry. As we know the Chef’s
role is the biggest skill lacked in the industry
so now is your chance to inspire the future
generation and the future of your business!
“I entered FutureChef because it was
an amazing opportunity for young people
like me to learn and showcase my skills
such as learning how to butcher a chicken,
and it opened a door for me to start my
career in hospitality.” Anna Carmichael, 2014
Springboard’s FutureChef winner
In order to get involved in Springboard’s
FutureChef – to inspire the next generation
and fulfil your talent pipeline visit:
Futurechef.uk.net
CALLING ALL CHEFS – BECOME A FUTURECHEF MENTOR!
Springboard’s FutureChef programme provides an opportunity for industry professional Chefs to support cooking classes in schools across the UK.
ANNA CARMICHAEL 2014 FUTURECHEF WINNER
63
STEVE BALL: KP OF THE YEAR 2014
Manor House Hotel’s dedicated, long-serving KP wins Winterhalter-sponsored award.
Steve Ball, of the five star Manor
House Hotel in the Cotswolds,
is not your average KP. For one
thing, he’s been at the hotel
for 35 years. He’s as likely to be
found working in the kitchen
garden, or ordering supplies, as
he is in the kitchen – which he
keeps spotlessly clean. But what
really sets him apart is that he
is Kitchen Porter of the Year for
2014.
The award, which is
supported by Winterhalter, was
hard fought and there were well
over 100 entries this year. The
judges described the overall
standard as outstanding. One of
the judges was Frances Atkins,
of the Yorke Arms, who said:
“It’s been phenomenal. The
number of entries was absolutely
amazing. That shows how
important the role of the KP is.”
Steve was nominated for
the award by the Manor House
Hotel’s executive chef Richard
Davies, who says, “Steve oversees
a team of four KPs and ensures
that the chefs have all the
equipment that they need to do
their jobs and FOH staff have all
their plates clean and polished.
He is at the top of his game in
his field. It’s really inspiring to
see someone so devoted to one
place and job. I think he’d only
leave us if his mighty Swindon
Town came knocking on his
door asking him to be their next
manager!”
Along with the accolade
of being top KP, Steve wins
£1,000 cash and a surprise gift.
Meanwhile the Manor House
Hotel wins one of Winterhalter’s
remarkable new DeMatik
‘leaner, greener and cleaner’
warewashers.
“There’s no way I expected
to win! I would have been happy
to finish in the top five, even the
top ten, but this is overwhelming.
Richard the Executive Chef has
been fantastic for me and it’s
hard to believe that I’m the hands
down winner; but it’s a great
feeling!” says Steve.
Highly commended prizes
were also awarded to Jose
Miguel of adam’s restaurant in
Birmingham and Lawrence Brown
of the Cameron House Hotel,
Loch Lomond. Both runners
up win £100 in cash to go with
their trophy. Joshua Whitfield, of
the Best Western Brook Hotel,
Norwich, was highly commended
and wins £50.
Winterhalter is also
supplying all entrants with a
special Oliver Harvey presentation
tin and apron. “Every single one
of the entries is clearly a great
KP, so we felt we’d like to make
every one of them a winner,”
says Stephen Kinkead, managing
director of Winterhalter UK. “The
comments and descriptions
from their nominators underline
the phenomenal dedication
that many KPs up and down the
country put into their job.”
Find out more about the KP
of the Year at kpoftheyear.com
Want to reach the top chefs and industry leaders?
Advertise with Chef Magazine to make an
immediate impact. Contact: peter@chefmedia.co.uk to discuss
your advert is ing options.
SCOTSMAN RISE TO THE ICE TOWER CHALLENGE
New Ice Tower 56 capable of producing ice non-stop all day.
With the demand for ice increasing across
the catering and hospitality industries, and
trends like self-dispensing “bottomless drinks”
sweeping the fast food and family dining
sectors, operators are looking for reliable and
economical sources of large amounts of ice.
However, as pressure on space continues,
they also need ice machines that are as
compact as possible.
To help meet this demand, Hubbard
Systems has launched the Scotsman Ice
Tower 56, which is capable of producing
485kg of high-quality nugget ice in a 24
hour period. What’s more, the machine is an
undercounter unit, measuring just 539mm(w)
X 664mm(d) X 720mm(h), with a counter top
dispenser.
Ice is produced in
the undercounter portion
of the machine. It is then
fed upwards through a
maintenance free “ice
chimney” into a 5kg
capacity hopper housed
in the tower head. 50g of
ice can be dispensed in
three seconds. There
are two dispensing
modes - produce as
much ice as required
or a set amount with
the timer-based option.
Factoring in the time
required for replacing
cups this enables
ice to be dispensed
non-stop, meaning it
should never run out,
no matter the demand.
Nugget ice is the driest
and hardest form of flake
ice. Like other forms of
flake ice it is produced at just below 0°C and
then compressed to remove residual water,
reducing it to as little as 8% of its original
volume. The resulting cylindrical nuggets
have a slow melt rate, making them ideal
for drinks or for display purposes. Quality
is assured, with standard features such as
a microbial UV control lamp to sterilise
incoming water and the integrated mineral
and algae filtration system.
The machine is ruggedly constructed
to maximise lifespan and has a number of
features to ease maintenance and service
operations. The side panels, made from
scotch-brite finish stainless steel, are all
removable for easy access to the internal
components. The auger and freezing
cylinder are also made from stainless
steel and the ice breaker uses a
specially strengthened alloy allowing
for greater extrusion pressure,
enabling incredibly compact ice to
be produced.
“The ability to generate ice
on demand from such a compact
machine is very exciting,” says Simon
Aspin, commercial director of
Hubbard Ice Systems.
“We believe it will have
a big impact across the
hospitality market.”
For more
information on the full
range of Scotsman ice
machines, and details of
local stockists, freephone
Hubbard Systems on
0800 616559, call 01473
350045 email sales@
hubbardsystems.co.uk or
visit
www.scotsman-ice.co.uk
GAME FOR SUCCESS
FRIMA celebrates 15,000th VarioCooking Center®.
FRIMA has just delivered
its 15,000th VarioCooking
Center. The landmark unit,
a VarioCooking Center
Multificiency 112T, went to the
renowned Club de la Chasse
et de la Nature, in the Marais
quarter of Paris. Head chef
Laurent Ruben says the speed,
precision and cooking power of
his new table-top model, and the
flexibility of the two-pan system,
have had a huge impact on his
kitchen.
The club, which opened
in the 70s, has a 50-seater
restaurant for members and
guests as well as facilities for
events for up to 160. Game
dishes such as jugged hare,
ragout of venison and wild boar,
alongside traditional fondues,
soups and sauces, form the
core of the menu. “We use the
VarioCooking Center for all
our dishes, from the classics to
potato chips, and it’s giving us
fantastic results,” says Laurent.
The FRIMA appliance has
been integrated into a special
island suite, manufactured
by Artinox, and is now at the
heart of the kitchen. “As more
and more restaurant owners
specify FRIMA, their pressure
has led manufacturers to adapt
their island suite designs to
accommodate the VarioCooking
Center,” explains Graham Kille,
managing director of FRIMA UK.
With 15,000 units in nine
years, the VarioCooking Center,
which was launched in 2005,
has driven the development of
multifunctionality in kitchen
technology. The latest version
combines all the functions of
conventional cooking appliances,
such as the griddle, kettle pan,
bratt pan and deep-fryer, into a
highly efficient, versatile cooking
appliance. Boiling, frying, deep-
frying, low-temperature cooking,
confit and sous-vide can all be
done in just one appliance.
“The advantages of such
technology are clear,” says
Graham. “Low space requirement
and low costs for electricity,
water and raw materials on the
one hand, higher performance
and flexibility on the other.
“More than 70 patents and
patent applications confirm the
VarioCooking Center’s market-
leading position in multifunction
cooking appliances.” That
market-leading position is
underlined by FRIMA’s customers,
96% of whom say they would buy
another VarioCooking Center.
(FRIMA market research 2012).
For information and
brochures, or to come to a free
Cooking Live demonstration, call
FRIMA UK on 0845 680 3981,
email info@frima-uk.co.uk or visit
www.frima-uk.co.uk
64 | MODERN METHODS - RELIABLE RECIPES
scallops:1 large scallop per person, roe removed
Remove scallops from shells, rinse scallops in cold water, place on white kitchen paper to dry. (Jon’s tip: coloured kitchen paper/cloth can transfer colour onto your scallops). Store in an airtight container in the fridge until required.
crispy pork belly:200g pork belly, skinless, boneless1 star anise4 juniper berries6 peppercorns (3 black and 3 pink)1 tsp cumin seeds1 tsp Maldon sea salt50ml olive oil
1. Preheat oven to gas mark 4/180°C. Grind to a coarse powder the star anise, juniper berries, peppercorns, cumin and salt 1 min/speed 10. Rub all over the pork belly, drizzle with oil, place on a wire rack on a tray and slow roast in the oven for 3 hours.
2. Remove from the oven, and allow to cool whilst being pressed between two trays. Once cooled cut the belly into squares about the same size as your scallops. Store in an airtight container in the fridge until required.
carrot orange and anise purée:500g carrots, half sliced and half juiced50g orange juice1 tsp vitamin C powder2 tsp sugar1 shallot1 garlic clove3 star anise50g creamsalt and pepper to taste
1. Mix carrot juice, orange juice, vitamin C, sugar, shallot, garlic and star anise 30 sec/speed 10.
2. Add sliced carrots and heat 10 min/100°C/reverse/speed spoon then pour into an ovenproof pan, cover with foil and bake 90 minutes (gas mark 4/180°C).
3. Transfer carrots and juices to a Thermomix bowl and blend 8 min/60°C/speed 8, then blend again 2 min/speed 10.
4. Add cream and stir 20 sec/speed 4. Taste and add salt and pepper as necessary then blend again 2 min/speed 10. Store in an airtight container in the fridge until required.
cumin caramel:100g sugar10g glucose syrup2 tsp water1 tsp ground cumin
1. Preheat oven to gas mark 6/210°C. Place the sugar, glucose syrup and water into a pan and bring to the boil. Boil until the caramel reaches a golden brown colour.
2. Cover a baking tray in baking parchment. Pour the caramel onto the tray and sprinkle the cumin powder over the top. Leave to cool and set.
3. Break caramel into pieces and grind in the Thermomix 15 sec/speed 10. Cover the baking tray with baking parchment, sieve a thin even layer of the powder onto the tray then place in the oven for 7 minutes until melted and golden.
4. Cool until hard. Break into small pieces and store in an airtight container.
“Thermomix is so versatile, you’ll never put it in a cupboard.” JON HOWE
Cornish hand dived scallops, Crispy pork belly,
Carrot orange and anise purée, Cumin caramel
JON HOWE
STAR ANISE READY FOR GRINDING STAR ANISE GROUND IN SECONDS
BACON CRUMB IN SECONDS CARROT AND STAR ANISE PURÉE – SILKY SMOOTH, NO NEED TO PASS
ThermomixVorwerk UK LimitedSole Distributor of Thermomix
in UK & Ireland
UK: 01344 622 344
www.thermomix.co.uk
IRL: 01484 5624
www.thermomix.ie
Thermomix - Cooking at your fingertips!
“Buy a Thermomix! Thermomix is the one
gadget I could not live without.”
JON HOWE
to serve:1. Place the amount of purée that you
require into a pan and heat gently.2. Season scallops (1 per person) and
pork belly pieces (1-2 per person) with salt & pepper. Into one smoking hot pan place the pork belly pieces, turn as required to heat through.
3. Into a second smoking hot pan place the scallops topside down. Leave the scallops for 90 seconds. Turn scallops; add a knob of butter and a squeeze of lemon. Cook for a further 30 seconds.
4. Remove scallops and pork from the heat and drain. Place warm purée on the plate, then place scallops and pork belly. Decorate with cumin caramel pieces and baby shoots.
Jon Howe is Chef Proprietor of Lumière restaurant in Cheltenham, and this is one of his most popular dishes. “I use Thermomix in many different ways for this recipe – the subtle flavours are enhanced by the fine grinding it can achieve for the powders and crumb, and the
blending is superb.” As well as being consistently on the menu at Lumiere, Jon says “This is also a great dinner party dish – it can all be prepared in advance, takes only minutes to serve and looks amazing.”
Serves 4-6
Contact details: Lumiere Restaurant, Cheltenhamwww.lumiere.cc
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