tr the new york times, sunday, november 29, 2015 36...

6 TR THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2015

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been bringing the flavors of his home coun-try to Australia. Africola’s interiors are anod to the shebeens (taverns) of the town-ships, with colorful murals, repurposedCoke bottles (here doubling as chile-saucedispensers), bright fabrics and plasticmenus illustrated with Mandela motifs.This kitschy space serves as a theater forMr. Welgemoed’s modern riffs on tradi-tional South African cuisine: a braai (barbe-cue) plate (32 dollars) with boereworssausages, peri-peri chicken, pap (maizeporridge) and sheba (tomato sauce);bunny chow (curried lamb in a bun, 10 dol-lars); or the vegetable of the moment,roasted whole cauliflower, served here withbread and black garlic (20 dollars).

Saturday•6 9 A.M. FARM-FRESH BREAKFAST

Dating back to 1869, the sprawling, coveredAdelaide Central Market is one ofAustralia’s oldest markets and one of thelargest in the Southern Hemisphere. Watchhordes of local chefs — both of the profes-sional and home-cooking variety — contem-plating organic fruits, fresh fish and poultry,and wheels of cheese from among 80 stalls,then piece together a hearty breakfast froma host of cafes and bakeries that have set upshop here: tapas at Comida Catering Co.,

Adelaide is Australia’s unsung city, a per-fectly pretty destination on the southerncoast, whose many charms are regularlyeclipsed by the more glamorous Sydney andMelbourne. Most tourists who do fly intoAdelaide are more often than not merelyavailing themselves of its airport en route tonearby Kangaroo Island or SouthAustralia’s 18 celebrated wine regions,which have made Adelaide Australia’s winecapital. But these days the city is shining asa destination in its own right, and those whodo decide to stay are in for a treat: Adelaidehas elegant architecture and colonial beautyto spare, and a revival of independent cafesand bars and a booming arts scene havelately given the city a creative edge. So goahead and fly through Adelaide on the wayto its scenic neighbors — just make sure youspend a few days exploring the city as well.

Friday•1 2 P.M. CASUAL LUNCH

Perhaps inspired by Melbourne, whose nar-row lanes are known for their hip cafes andboutiques, Adelaide’s side streets are hav-ing something of a moment. Experience thevibe on Ebenezer Place, which is lined withan eclectic mix of businesses; last year, apopular suburban establishment, Parwana Afghan Kitchen, opened a sister restaurant,the pint-size Kutchi Deli Parwana. Thisbranch is daubed in bright shades ofturquoise and serves delicious, reasonablypriced Afghan street-food favorites: lambmantu, or dumplings (13 Australian dollars,or $9.50 at 1.36 Australian to the U.S. dollar),eggplant borani with yogurt sauce (13 dol-lars), and bolani turnovers stuffed withpumpkin or minced lamb (10 dollars). On asunny day, order a few dishes and take aseat on the sidewalk to soak in the atmos-phere.

•2 3 P.M. ARTY AFTERNOON

The Art Gallery of South Australia housesan expansive collection in its stately build-ing on Adelaide’s North Terrace, a leafyboulevard lined with grand monuments andUniversity of Adelaide buildings. Inside, ad-mission is free to most exhibitions, and youcan browse Australian, Aboriginal and Eu-ropean art, and even a small Islamic gallery.If you’re in town early in the month, you’re inluck: The museum stays open until 9 p.m. onFirst Fridays, with a festive program of livemusic, guided tours and talks with featuredartists in the evening.

•3 5 P.M. PEDESTRIAN PROMENADE

Adelaide’s main promenade is Rundle Mall,a long pedestrianized artery, home to thecity’s best shopping and restaurants. Take aleisurely stroll, but bypass the departmentstores and chain restaurants in favor ofstops at the stylish Felici Espresso Bar, thehousewares shop One Rundle Trading Com-pany, the Australian design emporium Jam-Factory and the original outpost ofAustralia’s family-owned Haigh’s Choc-olates, set in a Gothic heritage building atBeehive Corner that looks like a confectionitself.

•4 7 P.M. HANDMADE HAVEN

For a souvenir that reflects Adelaide’s cre-ative spirit, pop into Urban Cow Studio. Itsrooms have creaky floorboards splatteredwith paint and are cluttered with jewelry,housewares, canvases and more, all hand-made in Adelaide by more than 150 localartists and artisans. Look out for funkyElodie Barker ceramic mugs (44 dollarseach) and hand-poured soy candles in coco-nut, espresso and mango papaya scents (30dollars for medium, 40 dollars for largesizes), or browse exhibits by local artists.The location also houses the Howling Owlcafe and the comedy club Rhino Room.

•5 8 P.M. OUT OF AFRICA

One of the city’s top chefs is an import fromSouth Africa, and since he opened Africolain November 2014, Duncan Welgemoed has

lars) at Barakah Pizza & Kebab House, inthe old Post Office building; churros (8 dol-lars) at St. Louis House of Fine Ice Cream &Dessert; and coffee or a cocktail at thestylish new Moseley Bar & Kitchen, whereseating options include swings suspendedfrom the ceiling and behemoth wickerthrones. Work it all off with a stroll along thepier — Adelaide’s setting on the westernedge of a peninsula means that despite be-ing in southern Australia, Glenelg counts astunning sunset among its charms.

•9 7 P.M. STREET EATS

Couldn’t get a booking at Jock Zonfrillo’sOrana, or aren’t in the mood for a formal,drawn-out tasting menu? Don’t fret —Adelaide’s most celebrated fine-diningrestaurant has a rebellious younger sisterdownstairs. At the laid-back, cafeteria-styleStreet ADL, Mr. Zonfrillo plies his spins onglobal street-food favorites. Grab a spot at acommunal table and order barbecue lambribs (32 dollars), fiery chicken skewers (26dollars), or two adventurous takes on a clas-sic — croc dog (crocodile, potato skins, cur-ried tomato sauce) or hop dog (kangaroo,jalapeños, chipotle mayo) — for 11 dollarseach. It’s a far cry from the inventive mod-ern Australian cuisine being served in theintimate dining room at Orana, but the bois-terous vibe is livelier, and you won’t beshelling out for the 155-dollar set menu (295dollars with wine) upstairs.

•10 9 P.M. COCKTAIL HOUR

Ever since its buzzed-about January open-ing, 2KW has made itself a requisite stop onAdelaide’s night-life scene. It’s not hard tosee why: A perch atop the 2 King WilliamStreet building guarantees panoramicviews. Aside from an extensive wine list,choose from creative 18-dollar cocktails likeLes Burdett (rye, black tea, cherry, orange)or Britannia Roundabout (vodka, blueber-ries, anise). For a more intimate evening,pop into another newcomer nearby: Thecozy Bibliotheca Bar & Book Exchange,tucked away in the Gresham Streetlaneway, has local wines for 10 dollars aglass, literary-themed drinks like the He-mingway Daiquiri (rum, cherry, lime,grapefruit, 18 dollars) and walls lined withbooks that patrons are welcome to swap.

Sunday•11 9 A.M. MORNING GLORY

Brekkie is serious business in Oz, and you’llfind one of Adelaide’s best morning menusat Hey Jupiter. Start off with a refreshingapple-mint-watermelon juice (7.50 dollars)before ordering the baked eggs cocotte withpotato rosti, mushrooms, cheese and toma-to (16.50 dollars) or the Belgian waffle withberries, mint and vanilla labneh (15.50 dol-lars). High ceilings make the petite cafeseem larger than it is; walls have cheery flo-ral wallpaper and are adorned with gildedmirrors and vintage posters with a sci-fibent. Colorful tables spill out onto EbenezerPlace.

•12 1 P.M. A SPORTING AFFAIR

The 53,500-seat Adelaide Oval was built inthe 1870s, and is hailed as one of the mostrevered cricket grounds in the world. It’salso home turf for the Adelaide Crows, thecity’s Australian Football League (A.F.L.)team. While there are a few different waysfor tourists to visit the stadium — dinner atthe fine-dining Hill of Grace restaurant or a90-minute guided tour (22 dollars) — whatbetter way to experience the hallowed set-ting than at an actual match? Cricket mightbe a bit dull for some American tastes, butAussie Rules Football is a spectacle with 18players per team, aggressive moves thatmake American football look like a friendlyround of hopscotch, and loyalist fans whotake the game very seriously. An afternoonat an A.F.L. match is an unrivaledadrenaline-fueled experience.

36 HoursA D E L A I D E , AU ST R A L I A

No longer simply the capital of a celebrated wine region, the city has seen a revival of an arts scene among other draws.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID MAURICE SMITH FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

By SARAH KHAN

Above, at the bar at JockZonfrillo’s Street ADL. On theTorrens River, which runsthrough the city, and on theterrace at the 2KW bar andrestaurant.

THE NEW YORK TIMES

1 Kutchi Deli Parwana, 7Ebenezer Place; kutchi.com.au.2 Art Gallery of South Austral-ia, North Terrace; artgallery.sa.gov.au.3 Felici Espresso Bar, 261Rundle Street; feliciespressobar.com.au. One Rundle TradingCompany, 237 Rundle Street;onerundle.com.au. JamFactory,Ground Floor, Rundle MallPlaza; jamfactory.com.au.Haigh’s Chocolates, 2 RundleMall; haighschocolates.com.au.4 Urban Cow Studio, 11 FromeStreet; urbancow.com.au.5 Africola, 4 East Terrace;africola.com.au.6 Adelaide Central Market,44-60 Gouger Street;adelaidecentralmarket.com.au.7 Adelaide Botanic Garden,North Terrace;environment.sa.gov.au/botanicgardens/Home. National Wine Center of Aus-tralia, corner of Botanic andHackney Roads; wineaustralia.com.au.8 Bay Discovery Center,Glenelg Town Hall, MoseleySquare, Glenelg, 61-8-8179-9508. Barakah Pizza and Ke-bab, 15 Moseley Square,Glenelg, 61-8-8295-1000.St. Louis House of Fine IceCream & Dessert, 1 ColleyTerrace, Glenelg; st-louis.com.au. Moseley Bar &Kitchen, 11 Moseley Square,Glenelg; themoseley.com.au.9 Street ADL, 285 RundleStreet; streetadl.com.10 2KW, 2 King William Street;2kwbar.com.au. Bibliotheca Bar& Book Exchange, 27 GreshamStreet; bibliotheca.com.au.11 Hey Jupiter, 11 EbenezerPlace; facebook.com/heyjupitercafe.12 Adelaide Oval, adelaideoval.com.au.

IF YOU GO

Check out our interactive map atnytimes.com/travel.

Algerian fare at Le Souk and smoothies atTony’s Juice Bar. You can eat well for lessthan 20 dollars.

•7 11 A.M. GARDEN VARIETY

In a city full of parks, the Adelaide BotanicGarden (free) is a particularly lovely one.Amateur horticulturists will want to me-ander through the lush habitats: a garden ofhealth featuring 2,500 plants known fortheir healing properties, an internationalrose garden with 5,000 species, and anAustralian native garden dedicated to re-gional flora. If the verdant environs can’tsustain your interest, head to the nearbyCellar Door at the National Wine Center ofAustralia to sample the finest bottles fromnearby wine regions including AdelaideHills, Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale.

•8 2 P.M. BEACH BREAK

An easy 25-minute tram ride (5.20 dollars)takes you to Glenelg, a seaside enclave onHoldfast Bay. The site of the first Europeansettlement in mainland Australia, datingback to 1836, it’s a lovely place to while awayan afternoon. Hop off the tram at its termi-nus at Moseley Square, a plaza framed byhistoric brick buildings, stout palm treesand the 1875 former town hall and clocktower that now house the Bay DiscoveryCenter. Have a juicy chicken gyro (12 dol-

ONLINE: AN OVERVIEW

Though the chef Nuno Mendeswas born in Lisbon and trainedmostly in the United States, it’shis London restaurants —

Chiltern Firehouse, for example — thathave gained attention. His latest is Tabernado Mercado in East London’s Old Spit-alfields Market. The informal, tightlypacked 40-seat restaurant (with additionaltables and a charcoal grill outside) lookslike a sleek version of a Portuguese tavern:nothing fancy, but with plenty of attentionto materials and details (including seatingthat is all too authentic: Some of the wood-en chairs are really too small for grown-ups). The atmosphere is convivial; we hadfun at the tiny concrete-topped bar, drink-ing and watching sausages being sliced.

At Taberna, the food is traditional Por-tuguese as seen through the eyes of animaginative, skilled chef. But this sharpfocus does not mean monotony. The menuis divided into snacks, cheese, cured meats,house-tinned fish, small plates, sandwichesand desserts. Wait — house-tinned fish?Yes, and it’s a perfect example of Mr.

Mendes lending creativity to a barroomstandby. The night we were there, soonafter the restaurant opened in May, tinyscallops with their red roe had beensealed into oval cans with brown butter,chervil and walnuts, and precisely

cooked: fresh-tasting seafood happilymarried with its seductive condiments.

Almost every table bore an order or twoof prawn turnovers — creamy shrimpcroquettes, pastry-clad, cleanly fried andredolent of crustacean — and at least one

plate of cured meat served with breadcrisped in a panino press. We ate thin-sliced cachaço, cured pork shoulder con-taining just the right amount of fat andserved at ideal room temperature. Severaldishes, including cod, cuttlefish and dicedpork tartare, were surrounded by savorybut light broths, which Mr. Mendes saidwere purely Portuguese. Still, I’d be sur-prised if a country inn could muster suchelegant, balanced flavors. This is vivid,high-class cooking.

Just as most customers began with thoseturnovers, many seemed to finish witholive oil and runny egg sponge cake or withsteamed egg-yolk flan made with renderedham fat. We followed the crowd and or-dered both, but they seemed one-dimen-sional compared with the depth of flavor inTaberna’s savory dishes.EDWARD SCHNEIDER

BITES Taberna do Mercado LONDON

Portuguese Fare, Served With a Twist

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Taberna do Mercado, Old Spitalfields Market,107b Commercial Street; 44-207-375-0649;tabernamercado.co.uk. Dinner for two, withoutdrinks or tip, is about £60 ($89 at $1.47 to thepound).

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOE WOODHOUSE

Flavors of Portugal in London:house-tinned fish and curedmeats, above, and carrotsescabeche, above left.