Climbing Anchors

Article and Photos by Ryan Ojerio

Building anchors is a complex topic with many variables that are beyond the scope of this website. However, understanding a few basicprinciples will give you a good foundation to build on and help you avoid some of the most heinous mistakes. With the informationprovided here you should be able to construct a position equalized and self-equalizing anchor given two fixed bolts using a cordelette orwebbing. You should understand the pros and cons of each and be able to evaluate an anchor for rappelling.

The following VIDEOS are available as a supplement to the topics presented below:

two-point anchortwo-point self-equalizing anchorthree-point self-equalized anchor

All anchors whether they are for belaying, top roping, or rappelling should adhere to theconcept of S.R.E.N.E.

Strong : Good anchor systems are built off of solid components, such as a goodbolt, stout tree or immobile boulder.Redundant: Anchor systems must be constructed of multiple components so thatif any one component fails, the anchor will not fail.Equalized: Building an anchor system so that the load is shared by all of thecomponents decreases the chance that any one component will fail.No Extension: If a component does fail, the anchor system should beconstructed so that the remaining components are not shock loaded.

Using cord or webbing you can connect anchors together to equalize them and createredundancy, but also they are useful to adjust the length and position of the system sothat the rope is not rubbing across the rock.

Intuitively you might think that two anchor points will split the load 50/50 in an anchorsystem. In fact, the geometry of the system determines how the load is distributed in anequalized system.

Consider the diagram at left. Of the four examples, which angle is will create the safestanchor?

When building an anchor system, how can you adjust the angle to ensure that you don'tcreate an unsafe system?

 

The American Triangle

Rather than distributing the load between the two bolts,this setup actually puts greater force on each of the boltsbecause of the mechanics of the triangle. Doubt it? Getout your calculator, physics and trigonometry book, andlook of the chapter on vectors.

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What's wrong with this anchor?

What will happen if one of the bolts or carabinersclipped to the bolts fail?

What will happen if the webbing fails?

 

Self-Equalizing Anchor - watch a VIDEOTwist and Clip - By twisting and clipping, the rope's carabiners are clipped into the loop of the webbing so that if

one of the bolts fails, at least the loop will catch the rope. In this setup the anchor will equalize in a variety ofpositions without having to be retied.

Extension! - If one of the bolts or carabiners fail, theloop will catch the rope, but notice the extension thatwill severely shock load the remaining components ofthe system.

If you tie an overhand knot in the webbing beforeclipping it the anchor it will still self- equalize, but won'textend as far as in the preceding example.Furthermore, if you tie off both pieces of webbing youcreate redundancy because if the webbing is cut in onespot, the knots keep the anchor intact.

- watch a VIDEO

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Position Equalized Anchor

A quick way to equalize an anchor in a single position is to tie off the entire bunch of webbing with an overhand orfigure eight (easier to untie after loading). With this configuration the anchor doesn't extend very much at all shouldone of the bolts or carabiners fail.

   

Constructing Anchors With A Cordelette

Cordelettes are great for building anchors. You can build position or self-equalizing anchors just as with webbing.Create a loop by tying the ends together with a double fisherman's or figure 8 follow through, which is easier tountie after loading. With a long cordelette you can equalize multiple anchor points, such as in this position equalizedanchor.

Watch a VIDEO of building a three-point equalized anchor using a cordelette.

Clipping The Rope

Attach the rope to the system with two carabiners for redundancy. Constructed properly, the anchor system willhang the biners over the edge and not be hitting against the rock which may open the gates. Always clip thecarabiners so that the gates are opposite and opposed.

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A. The above biners are neither opposite nor opposed.It is possible that they could hit on the rock and opensimultaneously, significantly decreasing their strengthor allowing the rope to pop out.

B. The above biners are opposite. Biners that are oppositeare less likely to open simultaneously if they slap on therock, but one of the biners could rotate 180 degrees andyou would end up with the situation pictured in A.

C. The above biners are opposed, but not opposite. Therope is unlikely to slide out in this configuration, butlike in A. above, if they hit on the rock and both gatesare pushed open, they are significantly weaker thanwhen they are closed.

D. The above biners are opposite and opposed. This is thebest what to set up your biners, way to go!

   

Rappelling AnchorsIts time to retreat on rappel and you don't want to leave any gear behind. You might have to make a choicebetween your life or your wallet; personally I'd rather be poor than dead.

Bad Idea. The above setup creates the dreadedAmerican triangle and the rope will probably be reallyhard to retrieve because of the friction as it runsthrough the sharp bolts.

There are at least two problems with the above set up.What happens when one of the bolts or a single chain linkfails? What angle does the chain make between the bolts.Is the load shared or magnified?

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Better. Two pieces of webbing, equalized. You might end up with a lot offriction when you pull the rope through that much webbing. It might makeit easier to retrieve if you tie in a rappel ring. Costs a little more, but hey,you're worth it baby!

OPP - credit for adventure

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