Apparel Construction Review

Sewing Machine Needle thread + bobbin thread= stitch

To bring up bobbin thread, hold needle thread while turning hand wheel

Replace needle with flat side to back

Loud/unusual noise=stop sewing!

Sewing Machine Parts Machine Parts/Function –

thread guide feed dog Tension stitch length regulator take-up lever presser bar lifter hand wheel

Equipment Scissors vs. Shears

Needles vs. Pins

Seam Ripper, seam gauge, tape measure pinking shears, safety pin, interfacing

Pressing Plain seams – press open

Serged seams – press to one side

Press on the back/wrong side

Iron Temperature based on fabric type

Pressing Tools Pressing Ham = darts, curved seams

Sleeve Board –looks like small ironing bd.

Seam Roll – won’t leave marks from edges

Needle Board = for corduroy, velvet

Pattern Symbols Know how to measure the grain line

Place-on-fold arrow

Symbols help you cut, mark, sew

Fabric Selvage=smooth finish, won’t ravel

Lengthwise=parallel to selvage, straight grain, runs vertical on a person

Crosswise – runs selvage to selvage

Bias = 45 degree angle, greatest stretch

Layout Layout ALL pattern pieces before cutting

Cutting layouts illustrated on guide sheet

Cut with fabric flat on table

Cut notches OUT, away from the pattern

Pattern Envelope Fabric yardage chart – on back

Fewer pieces= easier pattern

Notions=thread, buttons, zipper, elastic…

Multi-size patterns=several sizes on one

The Pattern Press with dry iron before pinning to

fabric

Printed on each piece = pattern #, size, view, name & number of piece

Know all symbols (see handout)

The Pattern Size Pattern sizes are not the same as RTW

Choose size for shirt based on bust msmt.

Choose size for skirt based on hip msmt.

Pattern alterations=lengthen/shorten, etc.

Sewing Right sides of fabric together

Seams = 5/8” wide

Regular stitch=2 ½ Basting= 4 or 5

Backstitching – only 3-5 stitches

Sewing Techniques Staystitching – sewing one layer of

fabric to prevent stretching

Insert elastic with a safety pin

Trim vs. clip

Sew at a slow, constant speed, guide fabric…don’t pull.

Serger Cut, sew, overlock the edge

Can’t replace a regular machine Can’t sew over pins or backstitch

2 needle threads, upper & lower looper

Each thread has its own tension regulator

The End