APRONS THROUGH THE AGES INSTRUCTOR: ADELHEID HOLTZHAUER

KA&S/GRANDE TUA MAY 2019

These aprones white of finest thred So choicelie tide, so dearlie bought, So finely fringed, so nicelie spred,

So quaintlie cut, so richlie wrought, Were they in worke to save their cotes,

They need not cost so many grotes.

Stephen Gosson, Pleasant quippes for upstart new-fangled gentlewomen, 1595

Google tells me that the word Apron originates from the Middle English naperon, from Old French, diminutive of nape, nappe ‘tablecloth’, from Latin mappa‘napkin’. The n was lost by wrong division of a napron. Little tablecloth is a very appropriate description of the most basic and functional aprons throughout history. At times, aprons have become extravagant displays of wealth and gift giving, or ceremonial in religious rites, but their basic purpose has always been a domestic or professional one. Protecting one’s clothing from daily household chores or “industrial” work was paramount when clothing itself was costly and time consuming to create. Apron wear is basic: tied at the waist, suspended over the shoulders, or more modernly pinned to the front of a shirt. In this class we will explore the evolution of the apron to the end of the 16th century and end with some patterns from various eras and regions with which to create your own aprons at home. History

Aprons appear in iconography dating back to c. 1600 BCE on the Minoan Snake Goddess and Priestess figurines excavated by Authur Evans in Crete in the early 20th century. Likely depicting household Goddess’, both figurines depict bare chested

women wearing aprons with embroidered or woven decoration over a flounced skirt.

For eons’ aprons didn’t change much. They remained suspended at the waist, were decorative and protected the clothing underneath. Egyptians wore highly decorated inverted triangle aprons as part of their ceremonial clothing.

Fast forward a few millennia to the “Viking Age” (c. 790-1070 AD). A common garment worn across the SCA and other re-enactment

Image 1: Minoan Snake Goddess

Image 2: Egyptian Fresco

groups is the “Viking Apron Dress”. Which beyond being a dress that is probably suspended from the shoulders, bears no comparison to the conventional “apron”? To my knowledge, no evidence exists to imply those of the Viking Era wore a protective layer over their smokkr (dress), but it’s safe to assume they wore something to protect that lovely woven fabric. The most basic aprons would be a cloth of some size (note the etymology of the word “Apron”: small tablecloth) tied onto the waist by a belt, girdle, rope, etc.

By the time we enter the 13th and 14th centuries, aprons are a common place accessory for working men and women. This is also the time where aprons stop being swatches of fabric tied on and become more decorative and sylistic. Men’s aprons remain functional, but womens start showing off embroicery and/or a technique known as smocking.

Image 3: Viking Apron Dress

Image 4: Wernigeroder Manuscript (c. 1280)

Image 5: Luttrell Psalter (c. 1320-40)

Aprons reach their pinncale of pizzaz in the 15th and 16th centuries. Women’s aprons are taken to new fashion heights with emboroidery, smocking and even slashing. Made of linen or wool sometimes lined in fur aprons were becoming items of prestige.

Image 6: Detail of the Ausburg Mural (1520)

Image 7: Peasant Women in the Region Surrounding Venice (1590)

Image 8: Mores Italiae, 1575. Unknown Artist.

Image 9: Albrecht Dürer - Melencolia I (1514)

Fabrics and Colours

As previously mentioned, aprons were usually made of linen. Linen is inexpensive and easy to care for. Although usually white or undyed, coloured aprons are seen in the 15th and 16th centuries. Other more expensive materials such as wool and even fur are mentioned in historical records. Options:

o Linen • White • Undyed • Black • Red • Blue • Green • Brown

o Wool • White • Black • Red

o Fur Men often tucked their aprons into belts or girdles.

Image 10: The Decameron (BNF Fr. 239), second quarter of the 15th century (fol. 187v)

“Midwife” style aprons are a fairly regional style seen in Germany

This style is commonly seen in the working classes throughout Europe in the late 15th and throughout

the 16th centuries.

Image 12: Sebald Beham - November and December from The Peasants' Feast or the Twelve Months,1546–47

Image 13: Pieter Bruegel - Childrens Games (detail)

Image 11: Oberrheinischer Meister: The Birth of Mary. Around 1460/65

Resources

Arnold, Janet. Patterns Of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660

Thursfield, Sarah. The Medieval Tailors Assistant, making common garments 1200-1500

Medieval & Renaissance Material Culture: The Linkspage at Larsdatter.com http://www.larsdatter.com/aprons.htm

The German Renaissance of Genoveva http://germanrenaissance.net/

Figure 1: Doppleschurze or Midwife apron pattern