aqm - fi quality assurance manual a - line skirt

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    QUALITY ASSURANCE

    MANUAL OF A LINE

    SKIRT - AMS

    Efforts by – Arushi Sharma

      Ma!""# Kaur  Shifa$""

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    INTRODUCTION• Textile quality assurance is the process of

    designing producing, evaluating and assessing

     products to determine that they meet the desiredquality level for a companys target mar!et"

    • The process involved in inspection is the early

    detection of defects, feed#ac! of this information

    to appropriate people, and determination of the

    cause, ultimately resulting in the correction of the

     pro#lem"• The main o#$ective of quality assurance is the

    detection of defects and nonconformances as early

    as possi#le in the manufacturing process so that

    time and money are not %asted later on in either

    correcting the defect or %riting off defective

    garments"

    Determinatin of causesof defects

    Correctionof the

    defects

    Inspection

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    • &ccepta#le 'uality (evel is the quality level, %hich, for purposes of sa

    inspection, is the limit of a satisfactory manufacturing process"

    • )*& &"'"(" )tandards

    • )*& &"'"(" standards %hen appraising a vendors manufacturing proc

    audits are as follo%s+

    • "- for appraising Critical .isual Defects

    /"- or -"- for appraising *a$or .isual Defects• -"- for appraising *inor .isual Defects

    • -"- for appraising *a$or *easurement Defects

    ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL

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    S%ECIFICATION S&EET

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    0&1RIC IN)23CTION

    •  The fabric of the skirt is a i! of "#elastano$ %"#al&odon cotton and ''#

    pol(ester)• Fabric inspection is *s*all( done on fabric

    inspection achines) These achines aredesi&ned so that roll of fabric can beo*nted behind the inspection table *nderade+*ate li&ht)

    • Defects in a fabric can be seen readil( ,iththese achines as the inspector has a -er(&ood -ie, of the fabric)

    •  The defects can be located$ arked andrecorded on the inspection for)

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    S%ECIFICATION S&EET

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    45 2OINT )6)T3*• The 45point system also called the &merican &pparel *anufacturers &ssociat

    7&&*&8 point5grading system for determining fa#ric quality"

    • 0a#ric fla%s or defects are assigned point values #ased on the follo%ing+

    0a#ric of defect in fa#ric, either length or %idth points allotted+

    Up to 3 in. 1

    .-er " in) *p to / in) 0

    .-er / in) *p to 1 in) "

    .-er 1 in) '

    2oles and openin&s 3lar&estdiension4 5 in) or less 0

    .-er 5 in) '

    Total defect points per 9 square yards are calculated and normally those

    fa#ric rolls containing more than 4 points per 9 square yards are considered

    :seconds;"

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     T6I7 I89PECTI.8

    DEFECTIVE T6I79

    9E:I8; T26EAD

    9

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    )3R3&DIN)23CTION+ &t least ? se%ing5thread pac!ages from a lot should #e

    used for at least 9 yards of se%ing under normal conditions and a

    record !ept of running performance"

    &)T* D ?@A?, la#eled per holder of se%ing thread is used to assess the

    length of thread"&)T* D ?B/?, determining tic!et num#ers for s%ing threads is used to

    convert from yarn num#er to tic!et num#er"

    9" I*23R03CTION)+ The se%ing threads should #e free of slu#s,

    !nots or any such defects"

    /" CO(OR+ Color of a se%ing thread should match to the color of the

    garment in our case %hich is Tomato red"

    ?" 2&C&=3 D3N)IT6+ 2ac!age density of se%ing thread should #e

    consistent from pac!age to pac!age %ithin a shipment or lot from

    shipment to shipment"

    4" 6&RD&=3+ (ength of se%ing thread on each pac!age should #e at

    least the specified amount or %ithin a certain tolerance level"

    -"

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    9" *onofilament thread must not #e used on construction seams"

    /" *onofilament thread is permitted for art%or! application only und

    restrictions"

    ?" &rt%or! must #e fully fused or faced to prevent s!in irritation as

    unraveling

    4" Thread loops of 9; or longer are not permitted"-" Thread must #e applied %ith loc!stitch machine"

    2OINT) TO 13 NOT3D I(3 IN)23C

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    'I%%ER F"atur"s of th" (i##"r 59" Inseam Eipper 

    /" Fipper has #een stitched on the side seam"

    ?" 2olyester Eipper type %ith a metal pull ta#"4" Dyed to the color of the fa#ric i"e" Tomato red"

    -" Fipper should #e B"- inches %ith 9"- inserted

    inside the s!irt and @ inches is visi#le"

    @" Top and #ottom stops fastened securely"

    G" )lider loc!s securely"

    B" &)T* D /-, )tandard Terminology Relating to)u#assem#lies provide information regarding

    specs"

    A" Interfacing has #een stitched to the Eipper %hile

    attaching it to the s!irt"

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    %OINTS TO )E NOTE* +&ILE INS%E

    5) Placket is sooth$ >at$ and free fro

    p*ckerin&0) 9titchin& is strai&ht and e-en") Placket is the appropriate len&th and

    ,idth') 9eas and neckline ed&es atch%) Copletel( co-ered *nless intended as

    a desi&n feat*re/) F*nction ,ell and slides easil($

    recoended brands are Y==$ YB9$222

    ?) 9kirt and pant @ippers end at the band) .penend @ipper is sec*red at the

    botto end ,ith a backstitch or bar tack

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    LA)EL

    Lab"$ R"i".

     

    9" (a#eling 2ac!aging/" 0i#er Content (a#el

    ?" C& No" or Dealer Identity

    4" Country of Origin

    -" The (anguage of Inscription 7mandatory

    in 3nglish8

    @" (a#eling of 2re52ac!aged Consumer

    Textile &rticles

    G" Care (a#el

    B" )tuffed &rticles 7if applica#le8

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    2IN TUC)9" / pin tuc!s are at the front yo!e of the s!irt"

    /" The pin tuc!s are of 9H4th inch each in appearance"

    ?" The pin tuc!s are spaced at 9H4th inch distance from each other"

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    LININ,

    9" (inings present a finished appearance,

     protect the user from internal structure, addcomfort, or protect the fashion fa#ric"

    /" 9 polyester has #een used as the lining"

    ?" (ining is of the same color as the fa#ric of

    the s!irt"

    4" Tuc!s have #een given to the lining #elo%the #elt for #etter fit"

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    SE+IN, *E%ARTMENT

    • The s!irt has / parts to assem#le 0ront and

    1ac!"

    • The trims to #e attached are 5 an in5seam

    Eipper, la#el, care la#el, pin tuc!s, interlining"• *3&)UR3*3NT)+9" )!irt length +5 9@ inches

    /" em line +5 - inches

    G" Dart length front and #ac! +5 G inches

    B" Dart %idth +5 4 inches

    A" 6o!e length +5 99 inches

    9" 6o!e %idth +5 ?"-inches

    99" Inner #elt +5 9"/ inches

    9/" 2in tuc! +5 9"/- inches 7per pin tuc! "/- inch8

    9?" Fip length +5 B"- inches

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    9" &dd dart inta!e 79H/ inch8 of the front and #ac! dart together"

    /" Total inta!e is divided into half"

    ?" Ta!e divided inta!e for each dart in front and #ac!"

    4" Trace front one dart s!irt pattern

    -" Dra% slash line, from dart point to hemline parallel %ith center line"

    @" Cut slash lines to, not through the dart point

    G" Close dart"

    B" Trace pattern on the fa#ric

    A" 0rom side seam go up to 9 cm and ma!e a curve %ith a A degree angle"

    1&(&NCIN= T>3 )ID3 )3&*

    9"2lace front on top of #ac! pattern, matching center lining"

    99"*easure and divide the difference #et%een front and #ac! s!irt at the side hems"

    9/"&dd one5half of this amount to the front and remove one5half from the #ac!"

    9?"1lend side seams to hip line"

    INSTRUCTION MANUAL TO *RAFT/ STITC& AN* STITC&

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    STE%S TO STITC&

    9" )e% #ac! darts

    /" )e% #ac! center seam and put in on seam Eipper )e% front darts

    ?" )e% side seams on s!irt

    4" Repeat steps 954 %ith lining

    -" )e% lining to s!irt 7pin lining to %aistline, right sides of fa#ric toget

    around, then turn lining to inside of s!irt and press" Topstitch if desi

    @" >em #oth lining and s!irt"

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    FINIS&IN,

    • 0inal inspection consists of

    inspecting finished garments fromsiEe measurements, form fitting,

    la#el chec!ing and pac!ing

    execution"

    • The final inspection is performed

     #efore the product is sent to therequired place"

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    MEASUREMENT AU*IT

    2ROC3DUR3

    • *easurements of the s!irt should #e ta!en

    on products after %ash, after press and

    sometimes #efore pac!ing, and compare

    %ith specification sheet *a$or

    measurement defects are to #e seen using

    an &"'"( , ma$or or minor measurement

    defect is counted as a defect"

    )T32) TO 13 0O((O

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    )T32) TO 13 0O((O

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    STE%S TO )E FOLLO+E* IN

    MEASUREMENT AU*IT

    -" If the total num#er of ma$or defects is less than to thenum#er of ma$or defects allo%ed, the measurement audit

     passes"

    @" If the total num#er of circled measurements is more

    than or equal

    G" The num#er of minor defects allo%ed, the audit fails"

    B" If the total num#er of triangle measurements is more

    than the num#er of ma$ors allo%ed, the audit fails"

    A" The last step is that the passed test should also #e

    chec!ed %ith &'( as the final results %ill #e #ased on

    &"O"(

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    TRI*) &UDIT

    • In this garment the only trim used is Eipper" 0ollo%ing

    inspection steps done in Fipper quality management +5• )elect samples at random

    • chec! the 2roper dimension of Eipper 

    • To chec! if the top and #ottom end

    • is correctly se%n"

    • The tape and color of Eipper should #e uniform

    • )lider has to #e loc!ed properly• The slider should move properly

    • If all these things are chec!ed and if its fine then the

    •  garment is passed in its inspection"

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    %ACKA,IN, AU*IT

    • 2ac!ing audits must #e performed during the

     #oxingHpac!ing process to verify rate cards, la#els,assortments, and counts"

    • In this audit , inspection is done to see if the pac!ing

    of s!irt is done as per the specification sheet , if

     pressing is done as needed and also the daily care

    la#els , rate cards are attached on every garment ornot "

    • Random samples are selected and chec!ed"

    • If anything is missing it %ill #e resent for the

     particular department"

    AC A, , A

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    %ACKA,IN, AU*IT

    • Chec!ing of care la#els in the s!irt is also a part

    of this audit "•  The first la#el is the care la#el in %hich they

    have mentioned that the s!irt should #e %ashed

    up to 4 degree C , should not #e #leached and

    lo% tum#le dry should #e done , all these la#els

    should #e chec!ed if its correct or not for the

    customers to !eep their s!irt long lasting"

    • In the second la#el the fa#rics used are

    mentioned that is ? of elastic and 9

     polyester, this la#el %ould give the customer the

    !no%ledge a#out the fa#rics used"

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    T>&N6OU