aquariumworld's free tip sheet

7/30/2019 Aquariumworld's free tip sheet

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Copyright 2009 Page 1

Fish Keeping Tip Sheet

Aquariums Setting Up Your Aquarium

New Tank Water Conditions

Saltwater Aquariums

Taking Care of Your Fish During a Power Outage

Algae Control in the Marine Aquarium

Fish Tips Tips on Keeping Goldfish in a Bowl

Tips on Keeping the Siamese Fighting Fish

The ABC's of Marine Fish

Aquarium Plants Keeping Live Plant in the Aquarium
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AQUARIUMS

Setting Up the Aquarium Place the aquarium on an appropriate aquarium stand, away fromdirect sunlight. Fill the aquarium with two (2) inches of water. If anundergravel filter is being used, put the filter plate in the bottom of thetank at this time. Rinse the substrate (gravel/sand) thoroughly and addit to the aquarium. The substrate layer should be at least 2 inchesdeep. Substrate type differs for fish only, planted and marine setups.

Be sure the tank is sitting level. Fill the tank half full of water, oncethe substrate has been added. Next, add plants, rocks, anddriftwood to recreate your environment.

Finish filling the tank with water. Place the heater in the tank, butdo not turn it on at this time. Allow the heater glass to acclimate tothe water temperature in the aquarium for one (1) hour beforeplugging it in. You can camouflage the heater behind the driftwoodand plants.

Equip the aquarium with a filter system. If using an undergravelfilter, hook up the air pump or power head (water pump) to the uplift tubes. If using an internal filter, place it inthe tank towards the back and hide the filter using plants or driftwood.

If an external canister filter is being used, place it on the

outside back of the tank, or under the aquarium. Hide thesiphon tube (which draws water from the tank to the filter)with tall plants or driftwood. Put the thermometer in place,add water conditioner to the aquarium, and turn on thefiltration system. After testing the pH and water hardness,necessary adjustments can be made using proper aquariumchemicals to recreate specific environments.

Now place the aquarium top in position and make anyadjustments (cut outs in the back) to accommodate theheater, filter, and cords. Turn on the light (a 10-12 hour lightcycle is highly recommended for planted and marine setups)and heater. Make any final adjustments to the heater inorder to stabilize a temperature 26 - 28 degreescentigrade for freshwater and 24 degrees centigrade for marine setups.

All newly set-up aquariums must go through a filter conditioning process in order to sustain fish life. It will takethe water approximately 4 - 6 weeks to condition, during which time only asmall number of fish can be added to the tank. Once the aquarium has beenset up and running for a minimum of 24 hours, six to seven hardy fishes canbe safely introduced. Over the next several weeks when the water qualitytests of Ammonia and Nitrite reach zero, more fish species can be added.

Feeding the fish will vary depending upon the age of the aquarium. Early on,during the first 4 - 8 weeks, the fish should be fed a small pinch of food onceevery other day. As the aquarium ages and becomes established (2 - 4months of age), fish can be fed once a day. When the tank is over 4 monthsold, the fish can be fed several times a day, but use small quantities of food at


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each feeding. The thumb rule is to feed as much as the fish will eat in 2 minutes. Use a combination of floatingand sinking feed in varying sizes.

Partial water changes are the single most important procedure you perform on your aquarium. In freshwater setups, siphon out 30% of the water every two (2) to three (3) weeks and replace it with fresh water which hasbeen treated with a water conditioning chemical.

Clean unsightly algae using a magnetic algae remover when necessary. Keep in mind that some algae left inthe tank can be beneficial, as it provides a food source for certain fish, and also creates oxygen for theaquarium environment.

New Tank Water Conditions Establishing an aquarium is easy if you understand the nitrogen cycle.

Water Quality The water in which fish live is extremely important to them. Itcarries their oxygen to them, contributes to metabolicfunctions and transports away waste products. The water alsoprovides necessary amino acids, vitamins and mineralsneeded in daily physiological functions.

Fish produce waste as a natural part of metabolic functions.These wastes need to be processed; otherwise they willaccumulate to dangerous levels in the aquarium environment.

Ammonia (NH4) is the primary nitrogenous waste productcreated by fish. In elevated amounts under certain conditions,ammonia will burn sensitive tissue areas on fish, such as finsand gills. Nitrites (NO2) are another waste product created byfish that is harmful in elevated doses and inhibit oxygentransportation to the bloodstream. Carbon dioxide (CO2) fromfish respiration is yet another waste product that can be lethalif not regulated. By properly monitoring and managing the water characteristics through filtrations and aeration,these toxic waste products are prevented from causing harm.

Filtration is what allows us to keep fish alive outside their native habitat. It helps clean the water so that the fish canlive for extended periods of time without constantmaintenance. Aquarium filters accomplish this for us.

Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle Biological filtration is by far the most important factor for keeping fish in an aquarium. From the moment fish areintroduced into the aquarium, they begin releasing ammonia,their principle waste. If allowed to build, this ammonia can killfish by burning the gill tissues and preventing them fromtaking oxygen. Beneficial aerobic bacteria help us filter thewater through biological filtration. Essentially, waste ladenwater passes over bacteria, which consume the waste andconvert it into less toxic compounds.

Nitrosonas bacteria are traditionally held as the bacteria that

are responsible for converting ammonia into compoundscalled nitrites. The establishment of a healthy reproducingcolony of these bacteria takes about 2 - 3 weeks. Once


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created in the filter media, these bacteria will instantly change all ammonia present in the water into nitrites. Nitrites,though, are fairly hazardous compounds to fish health as well, so the filter must employ the use of another group of bacteria to adequately filter the water. Nitrobacter or Nitrospira bacteria are held accountable for the conversion of nitrites to nitrates. These bacteria behave in a similar fashion to the Nitrosomonas bacteria in that they willconsume nitrites and excrete nitrates as a waste product. Two weeks are generally necessary for these bacteria tof ully seat themselves into a filters media. Again, once established, these bacteria will instantly change (through anoxidation process) all nitrites present into nitrates. The growth and establishment stages of bacterial colonies arewhat are referred to as cycling the aquarium. In all, it takes 4 - 6 weeks for the cycling to complete. The amount of bacteria that grow or colonize in the aquarium and filter is dependent on the amount of food (waste products)available in the aquarium. However, once complete, the bacterial colonies will continue to reproduce on their own,sustaining themselves on fish waste until the filter is cleaned.

Filtration

How do I choose the right filter for my aquarium? Aquariums require a filter system which is the lifeblood of the aquarium, maintaining pristine water quality andhealthy fish. Aquarium filters accomplish this for us through 3 different processes.Mechanical Filtration - accomplished through the removal of particles from the water. Water passes through amedium, such as floss, a filter pad or micron sock working like a sieve that selectively traps particulates. This canhelp keep the water from being cloudy or silty.Chemical Filtration consists of a medium that works through absorption, whereby chemical compounds areremoved from the water. There are many chemical filters that can be used to clean water, but carbon and PolyFilters are the most common. Carbon is a substance that has many pockets and bonding sites on it, so thatimpurities, colors, and odors can attach to it. There is a finite amount of these bonding sites, so eventually thecarbon must be replaced. It is important to note that while carbon can help clean a tank from by products andpollution, it is not a suitable replacement for biological filtration. Poly Filters are mechanical filter pads that areimpregnated with ion exchange resin much like the filters used in kidney dialysis machines. Poly Filters are highly

effective at removing organic waste from the water. These also need to be routinely replaced.Biological Filtration - is by far the most important for keeping fish in an aquarium. From the moment fish areintroduced into the aquarium, they begin releasing ammonia, their principle waste by product. If allowed to build,this ammonia can kill fish by burning the gill tissues and preventing them from taking in oxygen. Beneficial bacteriahelp us filter the water through a biological oxidation process. Essentially, waste laden water passes over bacteria,which consume the waste and convert it into less toxic compounds. This process is called the Nitrogen Cycle andit is a live filter.

Types of Filters Power Filters - Power and canister filters push or pull water through a set of media in a container with a motorized pump.Water is pulled into the unit through an uptake tube andpasses through various media before being expelled to the

aquarium again. Hang on the back power filters are small andinexpensive. Canister filters are sealed, pressurized andreside beneath the aquarium, inside the aquarium stand.

Additionally, the powerful water movement allows these filtersto be used on large tanks. With quick disconnecting hoses, itis easy to perform maintenance by taking the filter to the sink,so that water is not spilled.Wet/Dry or Trickle Filters - Trickle filters are an evolution of standard filters being more efficient in less space. The basison which they function is by housing biological media in a filter chamber and as water is dripped or sprayed over it, largeamounts of beneficial bacteria grow. Due to the high contactof air to the wet media, the bacteria grow in a wet-dry, highly oxygenated state. Most trickle filters employ a filter

fiber as a pre-filter to do most of the mechanical filtration. Bio-balls, DLS material, bio-stars, and more are themedia used for biological filtration.


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Trickle filters are large, so like canister filters they are typically located underneath the tank, inside the aquariumstand. Water from the aquarium is allowed to overflow down a standpipe inside the aquarium to the trickle filter and then is returned to the aquarium by means of a water pump.Protein Skimmers - Protein skimmers are perhaps one of the most influential developments in keeping saltwater aquariums. They have made it possible to maintain very high levels of water quality for extended periods of time.Protein skimming may also be known as foam fractionation, and the concept behind it has been in use for decades.Protein skimmers function in a deceptively simple manner. Foam is created by mixing saltwater and air together the finer the mix and the smaller the bubbles, the more efficient the skimmer will work. Proteins and other organicmolecules stick to the bubbles, which creates a stable foam that rises above the mixing air and water. This foam isthen collected before it is returned to the tank. The wastes, organics, and proteins that are collected are pulled outbefore they have a chance to break down. This effectively scrubs the water clean, removing all manner of wastematerials from the aquarium and making the biological filter more efficient.UV Sterilizers - Ultraviolet sterilizers work by passing water through a sealed tube with an ultraviolet light; the lightemits rays that sterilize or alter the DNA of living organisms that pass by it. Because this is fed by a pump with a

pre filter, large animals (like fish, etc.) are not harmed. Bacteria, protozoan, algae cells and parasites are all killedwith this method. The key to using one of these is to size it correctly to the tank. UV sterilizers are generallyconnected in line be tween the aquarium and the filter system. The U.V light bulb is effective for about 6 monthsand then needs to be replaced.

Bacteria Bloom Bacteria Bloom (cloudy water) will occur 2 to 4 days after fish are added to the tank. The cloudiness, caused byinitial bacteria growth, is not harmful to tank inhabitants, and will clear on its own.Have patience! If your water does not clear after 10 days, consult with your

AquariumWorld Specialist.

It is critical to remember that the media involved house billions of living bacteria,and the presence of these bacteria is what keeps your fish healthy and thus theabsence of these bacteria can result in the loss of all other living organisms in theaquarium. When it becomes necessary to clean the filter media, usage of the

aquarium water to rinse the media is essential. If the media is instead rinsed withchlorinated tap water, these important bacteria will be killed and the fishs toxic


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waste will not be removed. Ideally, the rest of the tank is left untouched when cleaning biological media, for it toohouses bacteria, and they will help pick up the slack when the main component of bacteria are under stress fromcleaning.

Nitrate, the final end product (NO3) derived from nitrite (NO2) in the nitrogen cycle is not harmful to your fish.However, one problem which can develop from high levels of nitrate is excessive algae growth. High levels of nitrate act like fertilizer, producing a carpet of algae on the tank floor and walls. Live plants in an aquarium will feedon this fertilizer, helping to reduce nitrate levels and thus reduce algae growth.

Home test kits should be used to monitor ammonia, nitrite, pH, Nitrate and other water quality conditions at thebeginning and through the life of your aquarium. Your AquariumWorld Specialist can show you how to test thewater.

Once your tank is established (after five weeks), then partial water exchanges should be done every 2 to 3 weeks,

never more than 1/3 of the water at a time. An established aquarium, one operating 6 months or more, will alsoneed to have its gravel siphoned occasionally to free solid wastes from the bottom of the aquarium.

Saltwater Aquariums Beneath the churning blue waters of the sea exist brilliant red corals and lush green plants. Brightly coloredclownfish snuggle amongst anemones, while crabs and starfish creep below them.

Bring some of this rich underwater nature into your own environment with a saltwater aquarium. Due to advances intechnology and equipment, it has now become easier than ever to set up a saltwater aquarium. At AquariumWorld,we have put together a very simple and highly successful procedure for establishing a saltwater setup. Our methodconsists of an aquarium, strong lighting, water pumps, protein skimmer, mechanical filter, saltwater, and rocks.

Setting Up the Saltwater Reef Aquarium Once the aquarium is in place (keep away from bright sunlight), you must prepare the saltwater. Mix dry syntheticsea salts with tap water and add a water conditioner. There are many brands on the market and most are fine touse. Adjust the salt level of the water (how much salt is in the water) by using an instrument called a hydrometer,which will measure the specific gravity or density of salt in the water. It should read approximately 1.023 at about24 C.

Now add several water pumps to the aquarium in order tocirculate and mix the water and provide the rocks withcurrents. Place in the bottom of the aquarium, the substrate,rinsed to be free of dust. The substrate should be made of calcium carbonate so that it will help with buffering the water,maintaining an alkaline pH.

Install and begin operating the protein skimmer, mechanicalfilter, and/or sump, heater and lights to the system. Theskimmer, filter and heater should run constantly, however thelights should be plugged into a timer. By using a timer and apredetermined program, daylight and night time can berecreated, automatically.

Allow the aquarium to run for 24 hours so that water can mixand clear, substrate can settle and filters, heaters and lightsoperate consistently. At this stage, the filters, pumps and

skimmer can be turned off, so rocks may be added. The rock should be stacked to create a reef appearance and toprovide lots of nooks and crannies for fish and invertebrates to call home.


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After the environment is created by placing all the rock, the pumps, filters and skimmer can be restarted. The water pumps may need to be re-positioned within the rock in order to get good water circulation throughout the reef thathas been designed.

48 hou rs later, this beginning reef aquarium will stabilize. Test the water in the aquarium for ammonia and nitrites during the next 4-6 days. Whentest readings are safe then fish and invertebrates can be added slowly tothe aquarium. Over a period of time, t his reef will begin to flourish. Itseasy and simple!

As with any aquarium set-up, options are available for different looks andsizes from beginner to hard-core hobbyist. Added equipment componentscan increase the quantity and diversity of animals, as well as effectanimal reproduction and growth rate. There is also a wide selection of

colors and types of artificial live ocean rock to create different types of reefs.

Ask you AquariumWorld Specialist to review with you, all of the options.

Key Ingredients Equipment Checklist

Rocks 1 per 15 ltrs

Scavenger Hermit Crabs - 1 per 10 litres Algae Cleaning Snails - 1 per 10 ltrs

Aquarium Aquarium FurnitureLighting SystemMechanical Filter Water PumpsProtein Skimmer Heater Thermometer Sea SaltHydrometer

Water Conditioner Test KitSubstrateDecorationsChemical AdditivesTimer Electrical OutletGravel/Water Siphon

Algae Scraper Food

Taking Care of Your Fish During a Power Outage Without power there is not much that can be done with filtration on the aquatic system.

The fish and animals if not overloaded in the aquarium should be okay, for afew days filtration wise. Do not feed the fish or do any cleaning of theaquarium as this can add to the overload of the filtration system.

The most important immediate concern for the fish in the aquarium is gasexchange, oxygen in and carbon dioxide out. This occurs in the aquarium atthe water surface. Moving the water at the surface increases the surface areaand thus increases gas exchange.

This can be created manually by using a bucket. Put holes in the bottom of the


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bucket and position the bucket above the aquarium. Fill the bucket with water from the aquarium and allow it todrip/splash back into the aquarium creating increased surface movement and increased gas exchange, oxygen inand carbon dioxide out. How often should the bucket operation be performed? The fish will tell you. When theyneed oxygen, they will go to the surface and hang there this is where the greatest concentration of oxygen islocated. At this point, perform the bucket operation.

Algae Control in the Marine Aquarium Algae control in a marine aquarium has long been a highly sought after answer as excessive algae growth can andwill compete with invertebrates causing health issues.

Some algae in the aquarium can be a good thing. Algae are beneficial to the aquatic ecosystem in several ways.First and foremost it is a food source to many of the animals (especially herbivores) living in the aquarium providing

nutrients and fiber. Algae also provide oxygen to the water and take up carbon dioxide (the respiration wasteproduct from the animals). Finally, it utilizes (absorbs) nitrates, which are the final end product of the nitrogen cycle an ever important biological function and filtration process occurring in the closed system of an aquarium.

There are many forms of algae, usually falling into 4 color categories; green, blue-green, red and brown and allgrow in response to nutrients and light. The color of algae growing will indicate the types of nutrients and lightspectrum feeding it.

Chemical means to control algae can be touchy as any adverse chemical in the water could damage theinvertebrates and fish in the aquarium. Mechanical means work fine; however over time it becomes a tiring routine.Natural methods can be a nice balance if maintained properly. Nature has provided us with lots of help in the formof algae eating animals (fish, snails, crabs, urchins and shrimp). The following list of animals can be extremelybeneficial and interesting to watch.

Marine Cleaners

GREEN ALGAE BROWN (DIATOM) ALGAE

- Emerald Crab- Blue Leg Hermit- Cortez Red leg Hermit- Mexican Turbo Snail- Trochus Snail

- Sally Lightfoot Crab- Urchins- Nerites Snail- Tangs/Surgeonfish

- Black Turbo Snail- Blue Leg Hermit- Red Leg Hermit- Astrea Snail- Trochus Snail

- Strombus Conch- Cerith Snail- Nerites Snail- Tangs/Surgeonfish

BLUEGREEN & RED CYANOBACTERIA ALGAE BUBBLE ALGAE

- Black Turbo Snail

- Cortez Red Leg Hermit

- Emerald Crab

- Scribbled Rabbitfish


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APTASIA FLATWORMS

- Batfish- Copperband Butterfly- Racoon Butterfly

- Dragonets (spotted)- Six Line Wrasse- Yellow Coris Wrasse

SUBSTRATE SIFTERS

- Nassarius Snail- Strombus Conch- Blue Leg Hermit- Cortez Red Leg Hermit- Cerith Snail- Sand Sifting Starfish


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FISH TIPS

Tips on Keeping Goldfish in a Bowl A very important fact to remember when caring for goldfish, is that it is not a good idea to keep them with tropicalfish. For one, they dont eat the same foods. Secondly, goldfish like colder waters than tropical fish. In addition,goldfish can be threatened by tropical fish. The long flowing fins and the slow motion of the goldfish make themirresistible targets to many fast fin nipping tropical fish. The stress can be very traumatic.

Starting Right For best results, you should start by filling your goldfish bowl with aged or conditioned water found in existingaquariums. Typically, goldfish come from waters that are alkaline and slightly hard. Most of the goldfish sold at

AquariumWorld are pond raised. Tap water is suitable for them, but it should be conditioned to rid it of chlorine or chloramine prior to pouring it into the bowl. This will prevent damage to the gills of the goldfish. You will then needthe right, healthy goldfish. Feeder goldfish, or carnival goldfish as they are sometimes referred, are generally notthe fish of choice. An AquariumWorld Specialist can help you select a good specimen.

As a general rule, you should not keep more than two (2) inches of fish per 4.5 litres of water. For example, a 9-gallon fish bowl should not house more than two, 2-inch longgoldfish.

Feeding It is very important to understand that goldfish do not toleratetropical fish food well. Goldfish do not have a stomach. Foodis absorbed as it travels through their intestines, so it musthave a high alkaline content. Tropical fish food is too acidic for their digestive system. It is true that goldfish will eat tropical

fish food, but they will reap very little nutritional benefit from it.Over time, feeding tropical fish food to goldfish will seriouslyaffect their health and longevity. You must feed a designatedGoldfish Food for best results.

Be very careful with your feedings. Overfeeding, especially ina small goldfish bowl, will cause the water to become cloudyand smelly from the accumulation of decayed food. This water will, in time, become harmful to the fish. When feeding,remember that less is best. A safe recommendation is to feed2 to 4 pieces of flake or pellet food every other day.

Cleaning Your Goldfish Bowl

Since a goldfish bowl generally does not have a filtration system, you must be very careful when cleaning the bowl.Every 5 to 7 days, the fish keeper will need to pour the top 2/3 of the bowl water into a clean (uncontaminated)plastic or glass container. Then, carefully transfer the goldfish, using anet, into this holding container while the rest of the bowl is cleaned.

The remaining fish bowl water should be discarded. Once the bowl isempty, it can be rinsed out with fresh tap water. Never use glasscleaner, or any other chemical to clean the bowl, as these, even in traceamounts are toxic to the goldfish.

Once the fish bowl has been rinsed, 1/3 of the bowl can be filled withfresh tap water. Remember, the water must be conditioned to removechlorine and chloramine. The water should be at room temperature or

cooler. Goldfish are cold water fish, and prefer water temperature in thelow 20 s. Carefully, pour both the goldfish and the old water back into


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the fish bowl. It is best to only fill the bowl 3/4 full. This allows for a larger water surface area, providing your fishwith more oxygen. Your fish will breathe easier.

Tips on Keeping the Siamese Fighting Fish The Siamese fighting fish or Betta is one of the most popular of all aquarium fish. There are several reasons for this popularity. First, is their beautiful colors often referred to as splendid, thus one of the more popular speciesBetta splendens. They are in the family of fish called Anabantoids. As such they have a special labyrinth organ thatother fish do not. This enables them to get oxygen from the water surface as opposed to using their gills to extractoxygen from the water. Because of this special feature they are able to be kept in a small container or bowl,whereas other tropical fish need a larger aquarium with added filtration. The sales of Bettas have surged in recentyears as theyve become displays in beautiful, ornate vases, bowls and glasses and easily kept on a table top, deskor counter.

Starting Right Keeping the Betta is relatively easy. Contrary to popular belief it is not totally carefree. In the wild, Bettas feed on insects (i.e. mosquito larvae) and will need to be fedregularly. Even though they can be kept on a small bowl without a filter (because of their ability to breathe oxygen from the surface) they still need to have their water quality maintained through regular water exchanges.

For best results you should start by filling your Betta container with aged or conditioned water found in existing aquariums. Typically Bettas come from slowmoving waters, even the edges of rice paddies in S.E. Asia. Tap water is suitable for them, but it should be treatedto rid it of chlorine or chloramines prior to pouring it into the container, which is harmful to the fish. There are manyvarieties of Bettas available (Split Tails, Half Moon, Round Tail and Crown Tail to name a few) and almost everycolor under the rainbow. An AquariumWorld specialist can help you select a good specimen.

Feeding In nature Bettas feed on insects at the surface, so small pellet food or worms (such as tubifex or blood worms) willbe the best choice for them. Be careful with your feedings. Overfeeding will cause the water to become cloudy andsmelly from the accumulation of decayed food. This water will, in time, become harmful to the fish. When feeding,remember that less is best. A safe recommendation is to feed 2 to 4 pieces of food every other day.

Cleaning Your Beta Container Since a Betta container or bowl generally does not have afiltration system, you must be very careful when cleaning.Every 5 to 7 days, you should change part of the water. Pour the top 2/3 of the water from the Betta display container into atemporary holding container (plastic or glass). Then carefullytransfer the Betta, using a net, into this holding container whilethe rest of the bowl is cleaned.

The remaining water should be discarded. Once the displaycontainer is empty, it can be rinsed out with fresh tap water.Never use a cleaner or chemicals of any type to clean with asthese, even in trace amounts are toxic to fish.

Once the display container has been rinsed, 1/3 of thecontainer can be filled with new, fresh tap water. Remember,the water must be conditioned to remove chlorine and/or

chloramines. The water should be at room temperature.Carefully, pour the Betta and the old remaining 2/3s water back into the display container.


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The ABC's of Marine Fish

When thoughts turn to setting up a saltwater aquarium and keeping marine fish, many assume it is difficult andexpensive. However, this is not necessarily true. Within the marine hobby, there are a variety of price categoriesavailable to accommodate even the most frugal of enthusiasts. Best of all, present technology exists to makemaintenance a breeze! Marine Aquariums can be very easy to keep and maintain provided you put in the rightspecies of marine fish. Some have failed in the past because they attempted to keep the wrong types of fish.

It is important before starting a marine aquarium to know the proper care and personality of each fish species sothat you understand the risks involved. For example, keeping a difficult species increases the risk for potentialproblems. Once the risks have been acknowledged, you can then determine what level (easy-A, moderate-B,difficult-C) of marine aquarium you will maintain. At AquariumWorld, we group our marine fish into threeclassifications (A, B, or C).

Keeping a marine tank with all A classified f ish will be extremely easy, with very few concerns. A novice will be

successful with A fish. Once the line is crossed into fish classifications of B or C, there exists the risk of increased potential challenges.

Knowledge of these challenges will allow the aquarist to takeextra precautionary measures, such as:

First and foremost, have a quarantine tank set up for allnew B or C fish. These fish will stay in the quarantinetank for 2 weeks before being moved into the exhibittank.

Second, do not purchase newly arrived fish, allow themto acclimate to the stores tank and observe them beforeopting to buy.

Third, do not purchase fish that are not eating.

Fourth, after acclimating a new fish to your tank, observeclosely that it is allowed to settle in to the environment,that other fish are not keeping it in the corner, at the topor bottom of the aquarium.

Finally, know that most marine fish are taken from their natural environment. We dont know their life historyand the effects of external stress. Even with all good intentions of sending home a healthy specimen, aproblem can still arise. So, know your risk, and plan your purchases accordingly.

The three fish classifications (A, B, and C) are determined with regards to; the price, growth size, resistance tohealth problems, feeding requirements, and aggressiveness of each species.

The following provides a more detailed explanation of thethree classifications.

A-Fish A-Fish are inexpensive (INR 250-800) and stays relativelysmall (1 -4). They are extremely hardy, with very few healthconcerns. They are good eaters, of most kinds of preparedfoods. Generally, they are not aggressive and are acommunity type animal.

B-Fish B-Fish are moderately expensive (INR 1000-4000) and


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moderate in siz e (4 -7). They will need larger aquarium (minimum 300-450 litres). They are fairly hardy, butsusceptible to parasite infestation (a quarantine tank is recommended). Generally, they will eat prepared foods, butthey will also require supplements of specialty foods. They tend to be more aggressive due to their territorial nature.There are more complications when mixing B-Fish into a community tank.

C-Fish C-Fish are expensive (INR 4500-15000 ). They grow to a large size (7 -24) and will need a very l arge aquarium(minimum 500 litres). They may be difficult to keep because of inadequate knowledge about their care andrequirements. C-Fish are easily susceptible to health problems, especially parasites. They may be difficult to feed,and generally they will not eat prepared foods. They will only eat specialty foods. C-Fish can be very aggressive,territorial, and difficult to put into a community tank.


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AQUARIUM PLANTS

Keeping Live Plants in the Aquarium Increased environmental awareness, and the push to find a new challenge or dimension to freshwater aquaristshas rejuvenated the interest in keeping live plants in the aquarium. Commonly referred to as Dutch Aqua rium", thisEuropean concept is beginning to catch on in India . For years, Europeans have kept indoor water gardens(aquariums) loaded with live plants, and displaying only a few fish to accent their garden. This approach is oppositefrom the traditional fish keeper who considered fish the primary attraction in the aquarium. It can be argued that atrue fish keeper would be hard pressed to create a biologically-balanced ecosystem more beautiful than one that iswell planted with live vegetation.

Similar advances in technology and propagation which have made the marine aquarium hobby easier have alsobeen developed for the live plant aquarist. With such innovation making live plant care easier today, the hobbyistmust still have the proper understanding and equipment to be successful. Common ground for any aquarists is tokeep a watchful eye on aquarium water conditions, feeding, lighting, and the growth and death of the animals andplants.

Photosynthesis One of the most beneficial factors from live plants in the aquarium is the supply of oxygen. Oxygen is very essentialto the survival of the biological system and inhabitants of any aquarium. Through a process known asphotosynthesis, live plants utilize the carbohydrates from inorganic substances such as water and carbon dioxide(which is respired by fish) as a food source and, in turn, release oxygen as a by-product. This is a very uniquerelationship. The toxic waste created by fish provides food for the plants, who return the favour by giving off oxygenso the fish can breathe. We will discuss how adjusting carbon dioxide levels in the aquarium affect plant growthlater in this handout.

Nutrients Nitrates, found in fertilizers, are another substance plants use in photosynthesis. A working biological filtrationsystem produces nitrates as a result of the nitrogen cycle (see New Tank Water Conditions tip sheet). Aquariumplants actually complete the nitrogen cycle by eliminating nitrates from the water. Consequently, live plantsgenerally do not fare well in newly established aquarium conditions where nitrate levels are low. An alternative for new tanks is to supplement with a fertilizer containing nitrates.

As the tank ages, live plants will use up abundant nitrates, helping to minimize algae growth. Iron (Fe) is another important nutrient needed for healthy plant growth. Generally, most plants with a bright red, or reddish orange color indicate a regular need for iron additives. Green plant leaves that tend to yellow quickly may be showing signs of iron deficiency. Most good plant additives will contain nitrates, phosphates, iron, and other nutrients which can beadministered easily and on a regular basis to the tank.

Lighting The energy which powers the natural process of photosynthesis is the sun. In our aquariums, artificial lightingis critical for the healthy growth and reproduction of live plants.There are two important factors in lighting intensity andphotoperiod.

Intensity refers to the strength and colour of the light. Mostplants require the red and blue spectrum in sunlight.Hobbyists attempting to cultivate live plants must usefluorescent or metal halide lighting specifically designed toemit these spectrums. The strength of light needed willdepend upon the size of the aquarium. Generally, two (2)

watts of lighting per 5 litres is recommended for sufficient plantgrowth.


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Photoperiod represents the length of time the light is turned on. A ten to twelve (10-12) hour light cycle issuggested for a planted aquarium. Consistency in photoperiod can be obtained by purchasing an inexpensive lighttimer. Hobbyists can experiment with increasing or decreasing the photoperiod to affect the growth rate of their plants.

Water Quality Parameters Water hardness and pH are other parameters which need to be monitored in an aquarium bearing live plants.Water Hardness refers to the amount of minerals in the water. This measurement ranges between hard (highdegree of minerals) and soft (low degree of minerals). A test kit can be purchased to measure hardness. Mosttropical plants come from waters where there is 8 degrees or less of hardness. However, there are some tropicalplants which will do well in water that is 8 to 12 DH (degrees hardness). There are even a few plant species whichwill flourish in water over 12 DH.

The pH (potential of hydrogen) of the water, whether it is low (acidic), neutral, or high (alkaline) also needs to be

measured for the particular types of plants being kept. Most plants do well in lower to slightly higher than neutralpH. Test kits are available to monitor pH levels.

To be successful in growing aquarium plants, a hobbyist must first reference the water quality for the type of plantsdesired and adjust water hardness and pH accordingly. There are several ways this can be done. One method is touse R.O. (reverse osmosis) or D.I. (deionized water). Like rainwater, R.O. and D.I. Water do not contain hardminerals, thus softening aquarium water. Another technique is to filter the aquarium water through a peat moss, asthis will lower the pH of the water. The peat moss can also be placed in a power filter or under the gravel if using anunder gravel filter.

Planting Different planting techniques are required depending upon the plantspecies. For plants which require a substrate, we suggest using a coarse

sand, or fine gravel. Some species of plants will grow roots as they float,therefore not requiring a substrate. Other unique species will root or attachto rocks and driftwood.

When planting bunch plants, take the rubber band or lead weight off sothat each strand can be prepped and planted. To prep the plant strand, a1.5 inch bar stem is needed. Pull off all the leaves down to the node(where the leaf connects to the stem) which will allow the bare stem togrow roots. The plant stems can now be floated in the aquarium for a fewdays for roots to develop, or planted for roots to sprout in the substrate.

Bare root plants need to be planted like outdoor plants. A hole in the substrate, large enough to accommodate theroots will need to be made. After gently placing the plant roots in the hole and spreading them out, carefully cover

the roots with enough substrate to hold the plant from floating away. Make sure you dont push the crown of theplant (the node from where all plant stems radiate) below the ground surface. Doing so, can cause damage to thecrown, and alter growth. Plant species which root on wood and rocks will require a little help in getting started. After choosing the appropriate rock, wood, and plants, attach the plant base and roots to the surface using monofilamentfishing line. Later, after the plant roots have grown and attached themselves securely to the wood or rock, thefishing line can be carefully cut away.

Special Tips A unique type of gravel, called Laterite, which is a clay based gravel mixed with fertilizers can be used in theaquarium substrate for live plants. This type of mix will provide all the necessary nutrients for good root growth anddevelopment, the basis for healthy plants.

Carbon dioxide (CO2) gas, injected into the aquarium water can have a tremendous impact on plant growth.Photosynthesis occurs during daytime and with the help of light, plants consume CO2 and produce oxygen. Duringthe night, when light is not present, plants consume oxygen and respire CO2.


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CO2 Gear Injecting CO2 gas is best conducted using specialized equipment. Here is what you will need: CO2 tank along witha regulator, a water/CO2 reactor chamber, a bubble counter, a check valve and solenoid valve hooked to a timer (off at night, on during the day) or a pH controller (which is more accurate). By injecting CO2 gas in measuredamounts, the hobbyist can provide extra carbohydrates in order to photosynthesize and boost plant growth rates.

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We at AquariumWorld trust you have found this document useful in your endeavour to being a better hobbyist. Weare always here to assist you with any information you require or any clarification you may need.

Visit our website at www.aquariumworld.in to get a better picture of our offerings and capabilities. Do write to ususing the contact form on our website.

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