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Asante,magazineTRANSCRIPT
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i s s u e n u m b e r 0 0 6 m a y – j u l y 2 0 1 1
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airtel.pdf 4/19/11 5:30:40 PM
Welcome Aboard!
On behalf of all my colleagues at Air Uganda, it is my great pleasure
to welcome you aboard and I thank you for flying with us today.
Our flight crew will do everything humanly possible to make your
flight a pleasant one.
In our effort to raise the ‘safety bar’, Air Uganda has joined the pool of major world
airlines to become IOSA certificated by year 2011. As the IOSA Certification Project
Manager, my primary role is to ensure that this target is achieved.
IATA Operational Safety Audit (IOSA), recognised by the world’s major airlines, is the benchmark for safety.
Its goals are to provide standardised audit programmes of the operational management and control systems of
an airline, based on internationally-recognised standards and supported by a rigorous quality assurance process.
In 2001, the International Air Transport Association (IATA) brought together airlines and industry stakeholders
to develop a global safety programme for its member airlines. By 2003 IATA Operational Safety Audit, IOSA,
was launched, based on over 700 safety and recommended practices. IOSA is based on Globally Harmonised
Standards derived from all relevant airline industry’s best practices for purposes of continuous safety
improvement in participating airlines.
IOSA provides a common set of audit standards that are centrally managed, continuously updated, and
consistently implemented by experts and industry professionals. The standards are in compliance with ISO 9001
Quality Management Systems. With a quality-based programme and independent audit organisations accredited
by IATA, IOSA is effectively raising the ‘safety bar’ in the industry and in Air Uganda in particular.
IOSA certification is now a prerequisite for business transactions under ‘codeshare’ arrangements between
established major international airlines. Leading airlines from all regions have incorporated the IOSA Standards
into their airline operations, as a major component of industry efforts to improve aviation safety.
Air Uganda shall, on IOSA certification, join the pool of major international airlines and offer our esteemed
passengers not only the highest level of safety confidence in the Airline but also enable them the flexibility of travel
connectivity between world class airlines.
Thank you for flying with us and we look forward to serving you again.
Deogratias TondaIOSA Certification Project Manager
EDITORIAL
CONTENTS
Camerapix Magazines Ltd Rukhsana HaqRoger BarnardCecilia W. Gaitho
Sam KimaniFatima Janmohamed Azra Chaudhry, U.K Rose Judha
Rukhsana HaqJenifer B. MusiimeRegina Busingye
Publishers:
Editorial Director:Editor:
Editorial Assistant:
Senior Designer: Design Assistant:
Production Manager: Production Assistant:
Editorial Board:
Behold the giant Equatorial snow-dome
of Mount Kilimanjaro that has confounded
cynics, challenged climbers, and
captivated all who have held it in
their gaze.
20 On The Summit Of Africa
Explore one of the most attractive
towns in Uganda, surrounded by
crater lakes, caves and tea estates.
8 Fort Portal And The Forest Of Toro – A Tourist Paradise
Encounter the intact natural beauty
of the waters of Lake Kivu nestled
in the highlands of Rwanda’s
mountainous landscape, offering
spectacular views.
14 Rwanda’s Rare & Shining Jewel
Discover 10 ways to heal your
home and to make it into a
happy, healthy environment.
38 Heal Your HomeHere is an experience that will attach
itself to your memory for life.
32 Hell And Heaven Originating in the hedgerows of
antiquity, the humble rose of old has
risen to majesterial status among
horticulturists and gardeners alike,
34 Old Roses
The views expressed in this magazine should
only be ascribed to the authors concerned,
and do not necessarily reflect the views
either of the publishers or of Air Uganda.
The printing of an advertisement in Asante
does not necessarily mean that the publishers
or Air Uganda endorse the company, product
or service advertised.
WELCOME ABOARD
ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili
is published quarterly for Air Uganda
by Camerapix Magazines Limited
P.O.Box 45048,00100 GPO Nairobi, Kenya
Telephone: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5
Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021
E-mail: [email protected]
Editorial and Advertising Office:
Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited
32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP
Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942
Mobile: +44 79411 21458
E-mail: [email protected]
Correspondance on editorial and advertising
matters may be sent to either of
the above addresses.
©2011
CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTD
All rights reserved. No part of this
magazine may be reproduced by any means
without permission in writing from
the publisher.
All photographs by Camerapix unless
otherwise indicated.
Enjoy a wealth of marine life in the
clear warm waters around coral reefs.
Conservation Is The Key For Zanzibar24
Made out of ebony,
the Makonde carvings
are one of the most
timeless, exciting and
valuable art forms to
be discovered.
40 42 44 Animal MagicIf you’re a pet owner, you
already know it: owning a
pet is good for you.
It is often the small
gestures that make
or break a business
relationship.
Abstract Africa
Mind Your Language
28 Coastal DelightsCare to sample the delectable
delights of Swahili cooking?
Regulars
Editorial by IOSA Certification Project Manager, Air Uganda
Book World
News Page
Air Uganda Flight Schedule
Healthy Travelling
Route Map
Offices
Tips for the Traveller
Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku
1
18
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
Cover picture: Forest elephant in Semuliki National Reserve.
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Final Cover.indd 1 4/19/11 3:22:42 PM
Air Uganda is the country’s carrier, underwritten by the
Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development (AKFED). Air
Uganda launched her first flight on 15 November 2007
and continues to grow its operations in East Africa and Southern
Sudan. Air Uganda is also a member of Celestair Group, with
sister airlines in West Africa, Air Burkina, Air Mali, and in
Europe, Meridianafly.
The airline offers flights to six destinations from Entebbe:
Nairobi, Mombasa, Juba, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar and Kigali,
served by 84 flights per week. Air Uganda’s growing fleet
includes two CRJ-200s and two MD-87s. The CRJ-200s are 50-
seaters offering an all-Economy Class service, while the MD-87
has 99 seats with both Economy and Business Class service.
Our vision is to be the leading East African airline in terms of
safety, quality, customer service and punctuality, well placed to
prosper within the open skies of the East African Community. In
line with this vision, Air Uganda is currently repositioning itself
as ‘The Wings of East Africa’. Air Uganda over the years has
continually increased its footprint in the East African region,
offering direct flights out of the Entebbe hub to most of our
destinations. What we can offer today to the East African
traveller is convenience and comfort – making the most of your
opportunities. The campaign is thus designed to focus on the
larger purpose why people fly – to spread ideas, to strike a
partnership, to explore, to connect with their loved ones.
We have noticed a positive trend for air travel in East Africa
with speed and time becoming key essentials to doing business.
Air UgandaThe Wings of East Africa
This portends a greater opportunity for inter-country trade and
linkages. For the aviation industry this is a very clear opportunity,
especially given the poor road and inter-country infrastructure.
What’s also promising is the pace at which the continent itself
is growing, fuelled by a young demographic, credit free cash
economy and financial aid coming from all corners of the world
to accelerate the pace of growth. The promising future is a
shared sentiment amongst staff, the nation and the East African
region: optimism, dreams, desire to make it happen, desire to
do it quickly.
We understand what our clients are passionate about, hence
our efforts to addressing these needs are not restricted to
discounts but cover the best destinations, deals, on-board
service, safety etc. We thus continually strive to offer innovative
solutions that address our customers’ needs. The objective is
to generate preference through initiatives which create affinity
amongst travellers flying for business. We aim at breaking
through the barriers of category stereotypes and consumer
indifferences by introducing a new dimension to a well-
structured market. In doing so, we offer a fresh evaluation of
the existing alternatives.
A service is just a promise, completely invisible. We make
the invisible, visible; that is why we offer you online booking,
let you check in 30 minutes before departure for passengers
with hand luggage only, arrive on schedule and fly direct to
all our destinations; so you do not have to worry about your
travel arrangements
The wings of East Africa
with hand luggage only, you are sure of an unbeatable fl ying experience with us.
We are the Wings that unite East Africa
6 | asante | may – july 2011
may – july 2011 | asante | 7
8 | asante | may – july 2011
destination: uganda
Set on the moist, verdant northern footslopes of the
Rwenzori, Fort Portal is one of the most attractive towns in
Uganda, surrounded by crater lakes, caves and tea estates.
It is well placed for visits to the primate-rich Kibale Forest and
scenic Semuliki Valley.
Fort Portal is the capital of the Toro Kingdom, the youngest
of Uganda’s traditional kingdoms, founded around 1825.
Perched on a hill above Fort Portal is the large circular palace built
in the 1960s.
A mere 10 kilometres west of the town, following a dirt road
along the precipitous northern Rwenzori foothills, the Semuliki
Valley opens up in all its geographical immensity. To the immediate
right are the sheer walls of the Rift Escarpment, while the aptly
named Blue Mountains rise to 2,500 metres in the distant
Democratic Republic of Congo. To the left, shrouded in clouds,
rise the austere glacial peaks of the Rwenzori. Cupped within
this imposing natural amphitheatre is the green swathe of the
Ituri Forest, which extends over thousands of square kilometres
into the dark heart of the Congo Basin, while the Semliki River
Western Uganda – accessible by a good tarmac road from Kampala – offers some of the finest tourist attractions in the whole of East Africa, with a number of animal and bird species unique to the area. A good starting point is Fort Portal.
forms an intermittent weave of serpentine silver flowing along the
Congolese border into the distant southern tip of Lake Albert,
shimmering far below.
The Semuliki Valley houses two of Uganda’s most intriguing
and divergent protected areas. Separated by a northern spur
of the Rwenzori foothills, Semuliki Wildlife Reserve consists of
open grassland rolling down to the swampy southern shore of
Lake Albert, while Semuliki National Park protects the Ugandan
extension of the sweltering Ituri Forest, home to a host of species
found nowhere else in East Africa.
Set aside as a forest reserve before it was gazetted in 1993,
the 220 square kilometre (85-square-mile) Semuliki National
Park is relatively untouched by tourism, despite protecting the
country’s only significant stand of tropical lowland forest, which is
characterised by a more diverse vegetation than other Ugandan
forests, and has a moister, denser undergrowth as a result of
having no real ‘dry season’. The local people are the Bamba and
Bakonjo ethnic groups, mainly coffee and cocoa growers. There is
also a small number of Batwa Pygmies, traditional forest dwellers
FORT PORTAL and the Forests of Toro – a Tourist Paradise,explores Asante.
Pho
tos
© D
avid
Plu
th/
Cam
erap
ix M
agaz
ines
Above:
Pretty crater
lake near Fort
Portal.
may – july 2011 | asante | 9
destination: uganda
who moved from the forest when it became a national park,
although they continue to gather medicinal plants from within,
and generally welcome visits from the rare passing tourist.
One of the specialised micro-habitats of the park is caused by
the Sempaya hot springs, which erupt from the ground through
a saline stalagmite-like sculpture at a scalding 106°C (223°F).
It is a primeval, evocative sight, linked to the same tectonic activity
that created the Rift Valley and Rwenzori Mountains. The pungent
bubbling water is rich in salt and sulphur, while the surrounding
mud supports a strange lungfish-like creature fed upon by an
unusually large population of shorebirds. Large mammals also
frequent the hot springs, which form a natural salt lick, while
the surrounding forest is good for primates, with grey-cheeked
mangabey, red colobus, black-and-white colobus and red-tailed
monkey all regular. Semuliki is the only East African stronghold for
the water chevrotain, a superficially duiker-like relic of an ancient
ungulate family that shares several structural features with pigs
and is regarded to be ancestral to all modern-day antelopes, deer,
cows and giraffes.
Semuliki is renowned among birdwatchers for its remarkable
checklist of 400 species, which includes 35 from no other locality
in East Africa, among them the immense black-wattled hornbill,
Nkulengu rail, spot-breasted ibis, African piculet and Congo
serpent-eagle. The scarcity of many of these localised specials and
the density of the forest mean that they are not easy to find, which
makes them even more of a challenge to birdwatchers.
Fort Portal is one of the most attractive towns in Uganda,surrounded by crater lakes, caves and tea estates.
Murchison Nile
River hosts so
much wildlife;
buffalo (below
right), crocodiles
and a fantastic
variety of birds.
Above:
Nkusi Falls on
the extreme
side of lake
Albert.
Opposite:
Sunbird, one
of the 400
species of
birds found in
Semuliki.
>>
10 | asante | may – july 2011
destination: uganda
Above:
Surrounding
the town of
Fort Portal
are lush tea
plantations.
(Inset) Tea
leaves.
Left:
Nature walk
at Semuliki
National Park.
The truly dedicated could set up a 3-4 day camping trip along the
Kirumia Trail, which follows the river and a series of associated
oxbow lakes to the banks of the Semuliki, where monkeys play in
the trees and elephant and buffalo occasionally come to drink.
The 555 square kilometre (214-square-mile) Semuliki Wildlife
Reserve is Uganda’s oldest protected area, gazetted in 1932
as the Toro Game Reserve. Back then, its legendary abundance
of wildlife included tens of thousands of Uganda kob, numerous
buffalo, the forest race of elephant (so common it was referred to
locally as a ‘Semuliki rat’), and an impressive density of predators
– indeed, the Kenyan hunter Brian Herne once wrote that he had
“never seen so many big lions in other part of Africa”. Semuliki
was devastated by poaching during the years of unrest, but this
trend is slowly reversing, and lion and spotted hyena have both
recolonised the reserve in recent years. The part of Lake Albert
bordering the reserve is one of the top locations for shoebill and
other water-associated birds, ranging from flotillas of great white
pelican to breeding colonies of the dazzling red-throated bee-eater.
Contiguous with Queen Elizabeth National Park to the
southwest, the 766 square kilometre (296-square-mile) Kibale
Forest National Park protects a moist medium-altitude transitional
forest habitat with an extremely diverse fauna and flora, including
some 335 bird, 60 mammal and 145 bird species. Probably the
most accessible of the country’s large forests, it was originally
>>
may – july 2011 | asante | 11
destination: uganda
>>
Right:
Hot springs
in Semuliki
National
Park, the
bubbling
water is rich
in salt and
sulphur.
1. Staff Outsourcing.2. Staff Recruitment.3. Training and Personal development.4. In-depth staff background checks.
NFT Consult – RWANDAPlot 8721, Golf Course RoadNyarutarama, Kigali.Tel: 250 (0) 252 570099 250 (0) 785119453
NFT Consult – BURUNDIKinanira, Bujumbura, BurundiTel: 257 (0) 79300660
NFT Consult – UGANDAPlot 6/8 Kyaggwe RoadNakasero, Kampala. Tel: 256 (0) 414-237904/24 256 (0) 312-266904
NFT Consult – TANZANIAPlot 304 Ring Street, Mikocheni, Dar es salaam, Tanzania.Tel: +255 22 2773588 +255 22 2773677
your virtual HR departmentNFT CONSULT LTD
General Email: [email protected]: www.nftconsult.com
set aside as the Kibale Forest Corridor
Game Reserve, part of a migratory route
between Queen Elizabeth and Murchison
Falls National Parks for elephant and other
large game.
Today, Kibale Forest is best-known as
Uganda’s premier destination for tracking
habituated chimpanzees. Unfortunately,
this pursuit tends to be a little more
hit-and-miss than gorilla tracking, mainly
because chimps are far less sedentary
creatures than gorillas, often covering
dozens of kilometres daily as they search
for food sources – and they can move
seriously quickly through the tangled forest
undergrowth. You’re most likely to get
lucky during the fruiting season, when
the guides know which trees the chimps
favour, and if you do, these delightful apes,
more closely related to humans than to
any other living creature, are tremendous
fun to watch as they squabble and play in
the canopy.
Chimps aside, Kibale Forest supports
the largest variety and highest density of
primates in Uganda, and has thus been
the site of much behavioural research by
primatologists. The tally of 13 primate
species includes a high density of the red
colobus monkey, which is rare elsewhere
in Uganda, but is easily seen in the
forested environs of Kanyanchu tourist
camp. Also present are black-and-white
colobus, red-tailed monkey, blue monkey,
L’Hoest’s monkey, grey-cheeked mangabey
and olive baboon. Other wildlife includes
bushbuck, red duiker, blue duiker, bush pig, civet, buffalo and giant forest hog which are
present, but rarely seen. In addition, Kibale harbours Uganda’s largest population of forest
elephant, which frequent Kanyanchu for brief periods during the rainy season, but are
almost never seen, though their spoor is abundant.
The ethnic groups who live near the park are the Batoro and the Bakiga, many of whom
grow cash crops – such as coffee – and eucalyptus trees for timber. Many local villages
are also involved in the tourist industry, one such being Bigodi, which lies outside the park >>
12 | asante | may – july 2011
Above:
Also of
legendary
abundance in
Semuliki
National
Reserve are
wildlife such
as elephant.
Semuliki is renowned among birdwatchers for its remarkable checklist of 400 species which includes 36 from no other locality in East Africa.
UGANDA
Country: Uganda.
Province: Kabarole.
Kingdom: It is the seat of Toro Kingdom.
Currency: Ugandan shilling (UGX).
Time zone: It is +3 GMT.
Languages: Rutooro, English, and Swahili (Generic).
Population: 46,200 (2010 estimate).
Driving lane: Left.
Climate: Fort Portal is situated at an altitude of about
1,500 metres and is endowed with a cool climate
suitable for growing tea.
Hotels: Many high standard accommodations, providing
both local and international cuisines, are available in and
just outside of town.
ATMs: They can be found in select places. It is best to
have cash.
Calling code: Dial + 256 483, followed by six-digit
local number.
Transport: The Entebbe International Airport
provides both local and international flights and is about
a 30-minute drive from Kampala. Taxis and rental cars
are available at the airport for transport. It takes around
four hours drive, from Kampala to Fort Portal. Also
available are the boda bodas, buses and matatus.
Communications: There are numerous internet cafés
around town. Contact the mobile or cellular phones
service provider to ensure international roaming. Airtime
cards are available everywhere.
Entry requirements: A passport is required by all
and must be valid atleast six months. Prior to visiting
Uganda, contact the Ugandan diplomatic
missions in your home country, or
any Ugandan representative nearest
to you concerning visa.
Health and medical emergencies:
Regarding immunisations and other
precautionary measures, it is best to
contact a travel health professional,
prior to visiting Uganda. Fort Portal
has a hospital and various small
clinics. Medicines and antibiotics are
readily available from pharmacies.
Fact File: Fort Portal, Uganda
destination: uganda
boundaries just five kilometres from Kanyanchu. Adjacent to this
tiny village, the community-owned Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary offers a
great introduction to East Africa’s rainforest fauna. Clear views from
the swamp edge into the gallery forest allow for good sightings of
red colobus, black-and-white colobus, grey-cheeked mangabey,
red-tailed and possibly L’Hoest’s monkey, and the guides really
know their stuff when it comes to the swamp’s varied forest
avifauna, which includes squawking African grey parrot, yellow-
billed and double-toothed barbets, and a trio of colourful turacos.
The nearby Kasenda Crater Lake Field, whose 30 odd lakes are
each a different shade of blue or green, is also serviced by several
excellent community projects, notably the Lake Nkuruba Nature
Reserve, protecting the beautiful jungle-fringed lake for which it is
named. Visitors can go boating on the lakes, the water is safe for
swimming, and the birdlife is prolific.
South of Kibale Forest, the Katonga River forms the southern
boundary of the 208 square kilometre (80 square-mile) Katonga
Game Reserve, which is traversed by the river’s many tributaries.
Only recently developed for tourism, the reserve protects a network
of forest-fringed wetlands along the Katonga River. Best explored
on foot and by canoe, Katonga supports some 40 mammal and
at least 150 bird species, many specific to wetland habitats. Most
visible are elephant, waterbuck, reedbuck, colobus monkeys and
river otter. This is one of the best places in Africa to look for the
elusive sitatunga, a semi-aquatic antelope with webbed hooves that
forages almost exclusively in swamps.
>>
14 | asante | may – july 2011
destination: rwanda
RWANDA’S Rare & Shining Jewel
Nestled in the highlands of Rwanda’s mountainous landscape is a small lakeside village set amidst forested peninsulas that jut out into the waters of Lake Kivu. It is the intact natural beauty here that make it Rwanda’s rare and shining jewel, says Helene Thomas.
Pho
tos
© H
elen
e Th
omas
Kibuye, pronounced, ‘Ki-boo-yeah’, is situated 130
kilometres west of Kigali, Rwanda’s capital city. The road
winds its way through spectacular mountain ranges where
some of the mountain peaks reach dizzying heights.
The Kibuye township sits on the eastern edge of Lake Kivu,
a vast lake that reaches across to the Democratic Republic of
Congo. There are other Rwandan towns situated on this lake,
including Gisenyi to the north and Cyangugu to the south.
Towns in the eastern part of the Democratic Republic of Congo
are also situated on the lake, including Goma, Sake and Bukavu.
It is the largest lake in Rwanda and among the deepest lakes
in the world.
Rwanda is proudly known as the land of a thousand hills,
although if anyone counted, it could easily be a million! Original
forests have, in most areas, been replaced with food crops.
Almost every hill in Rwanda is covered in a patchwork field of
vegetables, tea, coffee or banana plantations. But it is Kibuye’s
densely-forested hills set amidst the tranquil waters of Lake
Kivu that make it unique and attractive to both international
and local visitors.
Kibuye is situated in the Karongi District of the Crete Zaire
Nil region, one of the least populated regions in the country.
Its population is about 150 inhabitants per square kilometre
compared to approximately 300 to 500 inhabitants per square
kilometre for other parts of the country so it is ideal for escaping
crowds and to be at one with nature.
Kibuye has characteristics that make it particularly unique
to Rwanda’s other beach resort town, Gisenyi. Both towns are
situated by the beautiful Lake Kivu, but in Kibuye, the lake can
resemble a vast ocean, and in other parts it can look like a
may – july 2011 | asante | 15
Rwanda is proudly known as the land of a thousand hills, although if anyone counted, it could easily be a million!
A day can easily be filled by taking a ride on a small wooden
passenger boat and exploring inhabited and uninhabited islands.
Remarkably, some of the islands are inhabited by cows and their
shepherds. When asked how the cows reached the islands in
the first place, the answer seemed somewhat far-fetched, but
perhaps true. The shepherd herded his cattle into the water,
they swam some kilometres with the shepherd calling from a
boat. Other islands, such as Napoleon, are inhabited by bats,
and others by locals who manage cafés, restaurants and
camping grounds. One such island is called the Island of Peace
which features a bar and restaurant, a volleyball net, tents for
overnight camping, a manicured garden, a pebbled path that
joins the main island to a smaller island, and a swing hung from
a tree right on the edge of the lake. The feel of the islands is
imbued with a sense of paradise.
Back on land, Kibuye has a big market on Fridays and a
normal street market other days of the week. Construction is
currently taking place to build an indoor market. There is an
easy walk around Kibuye town which takes in parts of Lake
Kivu and the forested hills which are planted predominantly
with pines and eucalyptus. In fact, Kibuye is nick-named, the
‘Switzerland of Africa’, because of the similarities with that
country’s mountains. >>
destination: rwanda
Opposite:
Part of Lake
Kivu and the
forested hills,
planted
predominantly
with pines and
eucalyptus.
Above:
From the
waters of
Lake Kivu is
a spectacular
view of
Rwanda’s
mountainous
landscape.
gentle winding river as it weaves around mysterious and
uninhabited islands. The emerald-green lagoon-like bays are
unique to this region.
From the waters of Lake Kivu is a spectacular view of Rwanda’s
mountainous landscape: hills upon hills, and a ghostly outline of
some of the country’s highest mountains. Local fishermen venture
out in their hand-carved wooden boats which have long slender
tree trunks that reach out and over to touch the lake’s glassy
surface. By night, their lanterns appear to be small cities dotted
across the lake. On a particularly still evening, a fisherman’s song
can be heard being carried across the waters. The main catch
is Nile tilapia. The hotels in Kibuye feature fresh tilapia on their
menus, and they serve it with vegetables, rice and deep-fried
potato chips.
Perched on the peninsulas in Kibuye are luxury hotels, each
with its own unique view of Lake Kivu and the mountains. Most of
the hotels are situated between three to ten kilometres from the
township. Once you reach your hotel, tranquility awaits you. At
night, the gentle lapping of the lake (and if you listen carefully, the
occasional fisherman’s song) lull you to sleep. By day, a vast range
of bird species sing from the forest canopy and the manicured
hotel gardens. In just a few short hours you become immersed in
the slow-paced way of life that is Kibuye.
16 | asante | may – july 2011
Above:
Densely-
forested hills
set amidst the
waters of Lake
Kivu.
On a less light note, there are important landmarks to consider
when visiting Kibuye. There is a genocide memorial that includes nine
small buildings which represent the nine communes that formerly made
up the province of Kibuye. The site has become known as the ‘Hill of
Resistance’ because of the heroic resistance mounted by the people
of Bisesero against their enemies during the 1994 genocide. There are
also two memorial churches, Karongi Catholic Church and Nyange
Catholic Church.
Geographically, the Karongi district is unique and of particular interest
to geographers, mountaineers, climbers, hikers and investors. Western
Rwanda includes part of the highlands that separate the two greatest
river basins of Africa, the Nile and the Congo. Lake Kivu is considered
to be one of Africa’s Great Lakes, and lies within the Albertine Rift of the
Africa’s Great Rift System, ultimately feeding the Congo River. While being
aesthetically beautiful, the lake has other attributes that are of particular
interest to the Rwandan Government and foreign investors. Because of its
location in the rift valley it holds vast quantities of methane gas and has
the potential to give Rwanda about
$ 50 billion a year worth of energy. At a depth of almost 500 metres,
Lake Kivu holds about two-trillion cubic feet of methane resources and
ten-trillion cubic feet of carbon dioxide resources. There is already one
methane extraction plant in Gisenyi with the likelihood of more to come.
Aside from lake activities such as swimming, boating and kayaking,
there are plenty of walks and climbs to do in and around Kibuye. There
is Karongi mountain, the highest mountain in the district, and close by is
Gisovu tea plantation, the biggest tea plantation in Rwanda.
Ever since the road was paved from Kigali, Kibuye has become a
popular weekend getaway for families. If you are seeking the quietest
period, visit Kibuye any time between October and May. The peak season
is June to September which is the long dry season. There are plans to
pave the roads to link Butare and Cyangugu with Kibuye and also Gisenyi.
In the meantime, though, a boat ride from Kibuye to Gisenyi will have you
reaching Rwanda’s other lake resort town faster than by road.
>>
Area: 26,338 square kilometres.
Capital city: Kigali.
Language: English, French,
Kinyarwanda (Kiswahili is also widely spoken).
Official currency: Rwanda Franc (R).
Time zone: Rwanda is two hours ahead of GMT.
Climate: Rwanda has a temperate tropical
highland climate. Rwanda’s altitude ranges from
1,500-2,500 metres on the average. Rwanda enjoys
warm temperatures that vary with regions. There are
two annual rainy seasons: from February to June and
from September to December.
Hotels and Restaurants: Hotels and restaurants are
abundant in Rwanda. However, it is advisable to book
hotel reservations in advance. Credit cards are usually
only accepted at the major hotels in Kigali.
ATMs: One can withdraw a limited amount of money
per day using ATM card. However, the ATMs do not
accept international cards. Payments are made mainly
in cash.
Calling code: The international calling code for Rwanda
is +250.
Transport: Rwanda International Airport in Kigali
provides both domestic and international flights. It is
10 kilometres from the city centre. Also available in all
major centres are local and luxury bus services as well
as Air charter services offered anywhere in the country.
Driving is on the right hand side. An International
Driving License is mandatory.
Communications: Rwanda has a superb cell phone
network that covers nearly the entire country thereby
easing both local and international phone calls.
Appropriate SIM cards for the network are
plenteous throughout the country and cell phones
can be purchased or rented from major shops in Kigali.
Also accessible are several internet cafés and
computer centres.
Entry requirements: Passport is required by all.
Check with your nearest embassy for current visa
requirements. Entry tourist visa is issued at the exit
point of Kigali Airport to all citizens with a valid passport
of more that six months from the expiring date.
Health: There is no compulsory vaccination for
travelling to Rwanda. It is advisable for a traveller to
update vaccinations like cholera, tetanus, hepatitis A
and meningitis.
Fact File: RwandaRWANDA
destination: rwanda
Fact File: Rwanda
18 | asante | may – july 2011
For more information contact: Books ’R’ Us LTD. | P.O. Box 45048, 00100 G.P.O. Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5 | Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021 Email: [email protected] • www.camerapixpublishers.com
Books‘R’UsA diverse range of general interest books giving fascinating
accounts of animal behaviour and capturing the fleeting and
dramatic moments of African wildlife in splendid photographs.
In the wild, time unfolds in a series
of fleeting and sometimes dramatic
moments – a crocodile seizes a drinking
zebra, a fleeing impala soars above
its fellows in a huge bound, an eagle
snatches a fish from the lake surface,
elephant and white rhino clash at a
waterhole.
All these moments, and many more,
are captured in East Africa Alive as it
explores the ancient themes of courtship
and birth, conflict and rivalry, life and
death. Each theme is introduced by an
authoritative text and illustrated with
some of the best photos ever taken in
East Africa. Detailed, descriptive captions
accompany the images.
Here is East Africa, more alive than
you’ve ever seen it before.
Loveliest of the great wild cats, the
cheetah is poetry in motion, a blurred
streak of graceful ferocity and a sauntering
portrait of fluid beauty. They threaten no
man and kill only for food. But the world’s
fastest animal is under threat from fellow
predators and ecological change.
This is one of the most unusual and
moving stories of animal behaviour.
Kathrine and Karl Ammann devoted
two years to the study of cheetah and
their movements in the wild of the
Maasai Mara, a remote and hauntingly
beautiful corner of Kenya. This account
of their life among the cheetah forms a
compelling and poignant narrative.
While working in the Mara, the Ammanns
discovered their photographic talents.
Their fascinating story is brought to life
by some of the best colour pictures ever
taken of any predator, anywhere.
East Africa AliveDuncan Willetts and John DawsonISBN: 1 904722 14 8
book world
The Spotted OneKathrine and Karl AmmannISBN: 1 904722 22 9
The Hunters & The HuntedKathrine and Karl Ammann ISBN: 1 904722 23 7
Never before has African wildlife been
illustrated with such power and drama.
Here, in marvellous sequences, the
reader can follow the stalk, the hunt and
the kill of the lion cheetah, wild dog, and
many other animals, witnessed at first
hand and captured in this superb series
of colour photographs.
The text, in collaboration with Ian Parker,
is both lively and authoritative and is
based on startling new evidence about
how these predators interact. Such
profound understanding of their subject
is the secret of the Ammanns’ success
as photographers. In this remarkable
book, the world of The Hunters & The
Hunted is brought vividly to life.
may – july 2011 | asante | 19
Stay focussed on your business, while we take care of your flight.We offer online booking, allow you to check in 30 minutes before departure for
passengers with hand luggage only, fly direct and on schedule to all our destinations, so that you don’t have to stress about your travel arrangements.
We are the Wings that help you explore opportunities
The wings of East Africa
20 | asante | may – july 2011
destination: tanzania
On the Summit of AFRICA
Pho
tos
© D
avid
Plu
th/
Cam
erap
ix M
agaz
ines
The giant Equatorial snow-dome of Mount Kilimanjaro has confounded cynics, challenged climbers, and captivated all who have held it in their gaze. “It’s small wonder”, says Mambo Gichuki, “that it’s considered one of the great mountains of the world”.
may – july 2011 | asante | 21
Far below us the sun burst over the eastern plains in a
spectacular shower of celestial diamonds. In the shadows
to the west the lights of Moshi began to flicker out one by
one. My guide breathed with pleasure. It was a long, drawn-out
breath, but not as laboured or as ragged as those of the party
he had just led up the last 914 metres (3,000 feet) of Mount
Kilimanjaro in darkness.
As a tourist attraction ‘Kili’ is one of Africa’s major drawcards.
More than 5,000 climbers – from seven-year old siblings to
70-year-old grandfathers – test their stamina on its slopes
each year. And more are always on the way.
Grand, majestic and seemingly inviolable, Africa’s highest
mountain rises out of the hot dusty plains on Tanzania’s northern
border with Kenya. Ringed by an almost constant wreath of
clouds – court attendants to this Queen of Mountains – its
dome-shaped ice-capped peak floats in the sky, a shimmering,
disembodied phantom.
But no ghosts ever had such substance as Kilimanjaro.
One of the largest volcanoes ever to burst through the earth’s
crust, this is the highest free-standing mountain in the world.
Just three degrees south of the Equator, glaciers stream down
its flanks from a lofty snowcap almost six kilometres (four miles)
high. On a clear day, the summit can be seen more than 160
kilometres away.
Within its great massif, in contrasting humid and icy
embraces, Kilimanjaro encapsulates the world in miniature. In
the space of three days, the climber passes from the Equator to
the Arctic: through montane forest, moorland heath and alpine
desert to a barren world of snow and ice. The trekker traces
Nature’s evolution in reverse, from the animals of the forest to
the first stirrings of bacterial life on the summit.
Yet Kilimanjaro remained shrouded in mystery, unknown to the
outside world, until little over a century and a half ago. The first
written reference to it, without sight, was made by the second
century geographer Ptolemy in his classic Geography. The greek
referred to a ‘great snow mountain’ hidden in the African interior.
Thirteen centuries later, the Portuguese geographer, Fernandes
de Encisco, noted that west of Mombasa lay ‘the Ethiopian
Mount Olympus which is very high’.
The first European known to have beheld its gleaming snows
was a German missionary, Johannes Rebmann, who was serving
in the British Church Missionary society. Told of a high mountain
called ‘Kilimsharo’ in the land of ‘Jagga’, in 1848, protected only
by an umbrella and his Bible, he set off from Mombasa to find it.
He caught his first glimpse of the summit on may 11th of
that year, but when he reported it to Europe he was ridiculed for
suggesting that a mountain near the Equator could be capped
with eternal snow. It was 13 years before Rebmann’s sighting
was confirmed by another German, Karon Klaus von der Decken,
and a young British geologist, Richard Thornton.
Since then, countless thousands have been lured and
enchanted by the flawless symmetry of this graceful mountain
adrift in the startling blue of the African sky.
destination: tanzania
>>
Mount
Mawenzi at
dawn from
across the
saddle.
22 | asante | may – july 2011
>>
destination: tanzania
As the continent’s highest mountain, Kilimanjaro is in fact
a relative newcomer. A million years ago it did not exist. It was
born in a series of spectacular explosions that gave its sister
peak – saw-edged Mawenzi, which climbs to about 5,148 metres
(16,890 feet) – its now familiar appearance.
In an eruption 360,000 years ago, lava surged across what is
now the saddle to Mawenzi. About 100,000 years ago, a huge
avalanche at the summit breached the south-west crater and
formed a spectacular precipice. Eventually magma withdrew from
the central vent and with a final belch of fire from its expiring
depths placed a perfect cone of ash around its rim. Born out of
ice and fire, Kilimanjaro’s latent forces are only asleep and the
snows are in rapid retreat.
Hans Meyer, who became the first man to climb the highest
point, Kibo, in 1887, found snowdrifts almost 1.8 metres
(six feet) deep on the southern slopes of the 4,572 metre
(15,000 feet high) saddle. Today, the saddle is a sterile desert,
brown-bare, and the crater above is often naked.
Nonetheless, one-fifth of all Africa’s ice is still held in
Kilimanjaro’s four square kilometres of glaciers. On such a high
mountain, the weather changes rapidly. From March to May,
the south-west monsoon rains fall on the southern slopes, and
the lighter rains of the north-east monsoons water the northern
slopes at the end of the year.
The climate at the crest of the mountain contradicts that lower
down: a dry North-East wind blows between May and October,
causing most precipitation to fall on the south-western slopes.
More than that, it sucks dry the clouds which cling to the southern
slopes, leaving the summit bathed in bright sunshine while a halo
of cloud encircles the lower slopes.
While almost 2,540 millimetres of rain fall on its forested lower
slopes each year, only 533 millimetres nourish the heather and
groundsel at 3,657.6 metres (12,000 feet) – and the summit
only received some 127 millimetres (five inches.) Thus the
crowning glory that glistening ice-cap, is swiftly disappearing.
Fading or not, Kilimanjaro’s summit draws an endless
procession of climbers, from young backpackers and families to
hardened professional mountaineers. There are nine routes
to the summit from the south and the west, all passing through
different sections of the moorland and glaciers that make up
the 765-square-kilometre Kilimanjaro National Park. The remote
southern and south-western faces of Kibo offer some of the
world’s toughest climbing routes – particularly those crossing
the Decker, Kerstein and Heim glaciers.
The world’s greatest living climber, Reinhold Massner, spent
many weeks on Kibo in 1978 to acclimatise himself for the first
successful ascent of Mount Everest without oxygen. With K.
Renzler, he became the first to climb Kibo’s sheer 1,524 metre
(5,000 feet) Breach Wall, which, with its huge icicle, hangs from
the Diamond Glacier. Later he said it was the hardest climb he
had ever done.
The summit of Kilimanjaro can, however, be reached from the
eastern slopes by any reasonably fit person – of any age. The
youngest climber so far was an 11-year-old, the oldest 74!
People in their 60s regularly step it out and the mountain has
been scaled by several blind climbers raising funds for charity.
Above left:
Climbers
passing the
Furtwangler
Glacier on
their way to
the summit.
Above:
Climbers
enjoying
breakfast in
front of the
Lava Tower.
may – july 2011 | asante | 23
A motorcyclist has broken its bewitching silence, and skiers
have glissaded down the inside of its steaming crater.
Hang-gliding enthusiasts have also launched themselves from
the summit – one never to be seen again.
The easiest and most popular route, covering 80 kilometres
from the base at Marangu, takes five days to trek to the top and
back again. Technically straightforward, it is nonetheless grueling.
Bad weather can make the mountain dangerous. When cloud
descends, it’s easy to get lost. Several climbers have also fallen
foul of the effects of oxygen starvation, which carries very real
risks for the fit and unfit alike.
The busiest climbing seasons are December to February,
when the mountain is often clear of cloud, and July and August.
Food must be carried, as well as wood and water for one’s final
night on the mountain. The park maintains excellent huts at the
three points on the climb and has a well-trained rescue team to
ensure the mountain is scaled in comfort and safety.
But the experiences garnered during the three-day ascent,
through the unique forest, and across the heather with its
magnificent views of Kibo and Mawenzi, to the breathtaking
eruption of dawn as the sun bursts over the rim of the world
at the summit, are reward enough for the effort.
From the summit the whole of Africa stretches away at your
feet. Inside the crater, however, the mood is eerie, a primordial
place evoking the kind of environment that must have existed at
the very beginning of life on earth. Within the crater is a
perfectly shaped ash cone with a central pit almost 152.4 metres
(500 feet) deep. Forty kilometres down its vent, molten rock
heaves and boils, perhaps one day to burst forth again and build
the mountain anew.
Kilimanjaro is only sleeping.
destination: tanzania
Above:
The snow
covered
Mount
Kilimanjaro
Maasailand
on the Kenyan
side of the
border.
Area: 945,097 square kilometres.
Capital city: Dodoma.
Official language: Swahili, although English is widely spoken
and understood.
Official currency: Tanzanian Shilling (TSh).
Time zone: It is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean
Time (GMT +3).
Climate: Enjoys tropical climate which varies according to
altitude. The rainy seasons in Tanzania are from March to
May and November to December. Temperature ranges
from 23-30 °C.
Hotels and restaurants: There is abundant accommodation
that suits the tastes and needs of various travellers; ranging
from luxury and standard hotels to guest houses, lodges and
bungalows. Hotels and lodges usually offer internet, fax and
phone service. Plenteous restaurants offer both local and
international cuisines.
ATMs: Numerous ATMs are found in all major towns.
Credit cards and cheques: Tanzania has a cash-based
economy; cash is more readily accepted than traveller‘s
cheques. Credit cards are accepted on a limited basis.
Calling code: The international calling code is +255.
Transport: Both Dar es Salaam and Kilimanjaro International
airports provide local and international flights. A popular
way to move around the city or shorter distances between
towns is with a dala-dalla (minibus). Bicycle-taxis and private
taxis are also available at a negotiable fare.
Communications: Mobile or cellular phones are widely
used in the main urban areas of Tanzania. Travellers are
advised to contact their service provider to ensure they have
international roaming. There is relatively fast and cheap
internet connection with internet cafés present in most of
the major cities. Postal services are also available.
Entry requirements: A passport is required by all. It is
advisable to check with the Tanzanian Embassy in your
home country, or any Tanzanian representative nearest to
you concerning visa.
Health: When travelling to Tanzania, it is best to contact a
travel health professional well before travelling, for the latest
information on health and vaccination recommendations.
Also a personal medical insurance is advisable.
Fact File: TanzaniaTANZANIA
24 | asante | may – july 2011
Most of Zanzibar’s visitors these
days arrive by plane rather
than ship, and so they miss
the sight of Zanzibar’s famous Stone
Town waterfront that greeted renowned
travellers such as Marco Polo, David
Livingstone, and Sir Richard Burton. That’s
a pity, because even today, it is something
to be seen. Unmarred by high-rise office
blocks or hotels, huge construction cranes,
power station chimneys or the oil terminals
that disfigure many ports these days, the
skyline of Stone Town, its capital and main
port, has changed little for centuries, and
is still Zanzibar’s main attraction. Highlights
include the minarets of its numerous
mosques, two cathedral spires (Anglican
and Roman Catholic), the battlements of
the Portuguese fort and of course the
palaces of the Sultans of Zanzibar. It is this
rich cultural heritage, as well as the island’s
natural beauty and unique wildlife that the
people of Zanzibar are now, after years of
neglect, making heroic efforts to preserve.
Zanzibar is politically part of Tanzania,
and UNESCO (United Nations Educational,
Scientific and cultural Organization)
declared the historic centre of Stone
Town a World Heritage Site, calling it ‘an
outstanding material manifestation of
cultural fusion and harmonisation’. The
cultural fusion referred to here is that
unique 1,000-year blending of Arabia,
Africa and India which developed along
the East African coast, now known as the
Swahili culture. Other examples of Swahili
‘material manifestations’ along the coast,
from the Horn of Africa as far south as
the Comores, include Mombasa Old Town,
Malindi and Lamu, but Zanzibar was in its
time the most powerful trading post in the
entire area, and the size and scale of Stone
Town reflects this.
The name Stone Town itself gives a clue
as to how the old town survived for so
long. The rock of Zanzibar island is mainly
a kind of limestone formed from coral,
called coralline rag, which can be cut into
building blocks quite easily with simple
tools. Merchants grown rich on trade with
the African interior to the Middle East and
beyond, built themselves splendidly solid
houses of several storeys, adorned by airy
destination: zanzibar
Conservation is the Key for
by Kate Nivison.Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ixZanzibar
Large dhow
along the
Tanzanian
coast, the
basic design
has scarcely
changed in
thousands
of years.
may – july 2011 | asante | 25
Above:
A narrow
street, typical
of Stone
Town.
Right:
Young Muslim
girl in
Stone Town.
balconies and wooden-latticed zenana quarters for their wives.
Everyone wanted to be near the waterfront, the source of both
their income and welcome breezes, so the houses were packed
together in narrow streets and more or less held each other up.
Even the walls of lesser houses had an infill of coralline cobbles
within a stout wooden or stone framework – a big improvement
on mud bricks. But even the stone had long-term drawbacks.
Zanzibar has plenty of rain, and the coralline rock is not only
porous, but badly affected by air pollution. By the 1960s, the Old
Town was very run-down and most of the buildings, including the
Sultan’s Palace, the House of Wonders, and the Old Dispensary
were in urgent need of restoration. With political instability in the
air, visitors were often disappointed by the decay and litter in this
most exotic-sounding of destinations.
Since Islam is the dominant religion here, interested
benefactors included the Aga Khan, and things began to improve.
The Old Dispensary is now a wonderful sight, and houses the
Stone Town Conservation Authority and a restaurant with
wonderful waterfront views. The House of Wonders is open again,
as is the Palace Museum next door, and the Fort. Major hotels
in Stone Town such as the Zanzibar Serena Inn, Tembo House
and the Dhow Palace Hotel are in renovated buildings, and their
interiors are even richer than their former merchant owners
would have believed. As far as possible, the work is done by local
craftsmen who still have the skills in stone and woodworking
inherited from their ancestors.
Some of the most photographed features in Stone Town are
its doors. There are over 500 of these imposing pieces of the
woodcarvers’ art. Stone Town’s numerous unofficial ‘guides’
will tell you that the pointed brass bosses or iron spikes were
protection against elephants pushing down the doors. Not such a
fantasy, apparently, since a 10th century Arab traveller reported
that Zanzibar was ‘rich in elephants’, and the Venetian explorer
Marco Polo mentioned them in 1295. Perhaps these were native
elephants, survivors from the time when the island was part of the
African mainland. Or possibly they were the domesticated ones
transported, with some difficulty by cargo dhow from India.
Sadly, the Zanzibar elephants seem to have disappeared some
time ago, since the British and Portuguese records don’t mention
their presence at all. Certainly ivory from the continental interior
vied with slaves to make Zanzibar the East Coast’s main trading
post during the 19th century, and local elephants would not have
stood a chance.
Other native animals, some of them very rare and found only in
Zanzibar, have been a little luckier, so apart from conserving its
cultural heritage, the authorities are also keen to preserve what is
left of the wildlife. The island even has its own variety of leopard,
although sightings are now very rare. There is also the shy civet
cat, the not-so-shy mongoose, two species of monkey, including
the red colobus, and forest lemur, pig, duiker and pygmy antelope.
On a still smaller scale, Zanzibar boasts 20 species of bat, 30
forms of snake, and its own kind of chameleon. Around 100
species of birds have also been identified.
destination: zanzibar
>>
Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ix
Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ix
26 | asante | may – july 2011
For an island only 86 kilometres long and 39 kilometres wide,
this is quite a respectable tally. It is very fortunate that so many
species have survived long enough to be around when there is at
last some real interest in conserving them.
One of the main problems for wildlife conservation everywhere
is the attitude of local people towards the creatures around them.
Unfortunately in Zanzibar local superstition dictates that some
perfectly harmless creatures like the chameleon should be killed
on sight because they are thought to be inherently evil. In rural
areas people still believe that the only cure for a chameleon bite is
to commit incest – a thought so horrific that getting them before
they get you is seen as a duty.
This is where education comes in. In the centre of the island,
at the Zala Reptile Park not far from the Jozani Natural Forest
Reserve, one retired teacher has set up a scheme for teaching
children about the local animals. Here, local people and visitors
alike are introduced to the various types of snakes and other
reptiles, whether native or not. Teasing or random feeding are
not allowed, but questions are encouraged. People quickly learn
which ones are dangerous, which are harmless, and which
ones to encourage to keep down insect pests including the
much-maligned chameleon. This wholly commendable scheme
is not government funded, and relies on donations from passing
tourists to keep it going.
The Jozani Natural Forest Reserve also relies to a large
extent on visitors eager to see the handsome Kirk’s red colobus
monkeys that are unique to Zanzibar, and if they are lucky, bush
pigs and various kinds of small buck. But it is the red colobus
that is the star of the show. Although wild, they seem to positively
enjoy showing off for the camera, and aren’t at all aggressive.
Again, feeding is not allowed because these monkeys share a
characteristic with those of their human cousins who are diabetic
destination: zanzibar
>>
Pho
to c
ourt
esy
Wik
imed
ia
may – july 2011 | asante | 27
Area: It is 984 square kilometres.
Official language: Both Swahili and English are the official
languages.
Official currency: Tanzanian Shilling (TSh).
Time zone: It is +3 GMT.
Climate: Enjoys tropical climate largely dominated by the Indian
Ocean monsoons. The rainy season is from March to May.
Temperature ranges from 24-27°C.
Hotels and restaurants: As an island destination, Zanzibar offers a
wide array of accommodation including hotels, guest houses, beach
resorts and island getaways. Restaurants offer locally available
foods such as seafood delicacies.
ATMs: Available at various sites in Zanzibar.
Credit cards and cheques: Traveller’s cheques are accepted at
large hotels and restaurants. They can be exchanged for local
currencies at Bureaux de Change provided one has a passport and
the cheques are properly signed. Credit cards can be used at larger
establishments; however it is advisable to use cash for payments.
Calling code: + 255 24, followed by seven-digit local number.
Transport: Zanzibar Airport provides both local and international
flights. Zanzibar enjoys a thriving sea transport network.
Fact File: ZanzibarLocal buses (known as daladalas), taxis and
minibuses are available throughout the entire
island. It is possible to hire a vehicle provided one
has an International Driver’s Permit. Whilst hiring
motorcycles travellers are advised to ensure a crash-helmet for
safety purposes.
Communications: Nearly all internet and mobile companies served
in Mainland Tanzania are available in Zanzibar.
Entry requirements: A passport is required by all. Zanzibar is part
of Tanzania so visa requirements are the same. Prior to visiting,
contact the Tanzanian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate in
your home country, or any Tanzanian representative nearest to you
concerning visa.
Health: It is best to contact a travel health professional well before
travelling, concerning immunisations prior to visiting Zanzibar.
It is advisable to ensure precautionary measures against malaria.
Customs: As Zanzibar is largely Muslim with a rich Swahili
culture, it is best to dress modestly. Smoking in public
places as well as nude and topless sunbathing is
prohibited. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter
any of Zanzibar’s many mosques unless invited.
ZANZIBAR
– they cannot digest the sugars found in many foodstuffs.
Their diet consists largely of the leaves of the Indian Almond tree,
and they have developed the habit of nibbling charcoal to help their
delicate digestions. Maintaining plenty of Indian Almond trees is
obviously a priority for the conservationists here, and the cover
they provide also helps the survival of other forest species.
Zanzibar has a wealth of marine life in the clear warm waters
round its numerous coral reefs, and conserving it is now a matter
of hard economics. Traditional fishermen need to feed their
families, and there is now a steady demand for seafood from the
hotels. But increasing numbers of scuba divers and snorkellers
now come to the island to enjoy the underwater scene. At Nungwi
in the north, the villagers have started a sanctuary for injured
turtles and other large marine creatures, to nurse them back to
health and then release them, to the benefit of all concerned.
At the Ras Nungwi Beach Resort, eco-tourism is now
the watchword, using local materials to blend in with the
surroundings, and ensuring as little disturbance to the natural
environment as possible. Visitors are gently cautioned not to
offend Islamic sensibilities by their dress, intrusive photography
or public displays of alcohol consumption. Hopefully they will
return home feeling that they have been part of a shared
experience, rather than cause disruption to local life. It seems
unlikely now that Zanzibar will fall prey to the kind of high-rise,
intrusive development that has plagued other areas, but will
continue to attract the kind of people who appreciate this gentler,
more concerned approach.
destination: zanzibar
Opposite:
Waterfront
in Zanzibar
town. The
buildings are
reminiscent
of a blend of
cultures.
Right:
Famed
carved door
of Zanzibar.
Zanzibar has a wealth of marine life in the clear warmwaters round its numerous coral reefs.
Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ix
28 | asante | may – july 2011
Coastal DelightsFelix Huwyler samples the delectable delights of Swahili cooking.
The Kenyan coast is famous for many things – palm-fringed beaches, rich
history, distinctive architecture, and some of Africa’s friendliest people. But, as
more and more visitors are discovering, it is also home to a unique cuisine – a
delicious blend of exotic tastes and simple cooking methods.
food
Like many other aspects of life on the Kenyan coast, the
local cooking is a distillation of the many influences that have
arrived on these shores since the first traders plied the gentle
‘heartbeat’ of the Indian Ocean monsoon. According to some
estimates, traders have been visiting the Kenyan coast for
over 4,000 years. But the emergence of the Swahili culture as
we know it today dates back only to around 800 AD, when the
Shirazi people of Persia first brought Islam to East Africa.
For centuries, the kazkazi wind carried dhows laden with
gold, ivory, cloves and other treasures (including slaves) from
Zanzibar, Bagamoyo and Lamu. They returned on the kuzi with
cargoes of cloth, porcelain, and other goods for barter. They
also brought spices, exotic vegetables and their own recipes
and cooking methods.
This happy melange of African, Arab and Oriental influences
is reflected in today’s widely acclaimed Swahili cuisine. The
emphasis is on fresh natural ingredients, simply cooked, with
an exotic touch of spice. Apart from the relatively rich coconut
sauce dishes, most of the food is fairly light and, therefore,
ideal for the tropical climate.
Full use is made of the wide variety of seafood, meat,
poultry and other produce available on the coast. The range
of seafood, in particular, is quite staggering, including rock
lobster, tiger prawns, oysters, squid, octopus, rock cod, sea
bream, grey mullet, red snapper, sailfish and tuna – all melt-in-
your-mouth fresh.
Vegetable dishes might include plantains (matoke), cassava
(muhogo), yams (viazi vikubwa), eggplant (birganya) or spinach
(mchicha). The eastern, mainly Indian influence is found
in chapatis and many rice dishes, using the pishori rice
originally from Pakistan but now grown in Africa, with
side dishes of pickles and chutneys made from mangoes,
limes, chillies and coconut.
Naturally, a wide range of spices are used – although
usually with a light touch. These include cardamom, ginger,
garlic, coriander (dhania) and turmeric.
The main traditional cooking methods are grilling, baking in
leaves, or frying in a traditional karai (a sort of Africanwok).
An eastern touch is also evident in the fact that the main
dishes are all served together, so there are no courses
as such. Visitors are often delighted by the attractive
presentation in small dishes, or clay pots, usually on brass
trays or on top of brightly coloured cloths (kikoi).
Sweets can feature a rather stark choice between the
wide variety of available fresh fruit or syrupy sweetmeats
and fudges – definitely not for the weight-watcher! And the
finale to a meal is the serving of coffee (kahawa), perhaps
spiced with cardamom and ginger, from the traditional
conical Arabic pot.
The delights of Swahili cooking are now being ‘discovered’
by more visitors to Kenya as an increasing number of hotels
and restaurants are adding innovative local dishes to their
Western-style buffets – and wishing their guests “furahia
chakula chako!”.
Pho
tos
© C
amer
apix
may – july 2011 | asante | 29
food
A Taste of Swahili CuisineSome recipes supplied by Felix Huwylre, which will provide
you with a taste of the simple yet tantalising cuisine of the
East African Coast.
Coconut Turmeric Sauce 1/2 litre
Ingredients
10 g garlic, chopped
5 g ginger, peeled, chopped
1/2 chilli, fresh chopped or pound in a motar until pastelike
20 g fresh coriander leaves or finely chop
2 cardamom seeds
30 g butter
60 g onions
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
500 ml coconut milk, first press
1 pinch salt
Little black pepper
Preparation
1. Heat butter and glaze onions, add turmeric powder and then
the pounded items.
2. Gently cook all items at low heat.
3. Add coconut milk and gently simmer for 20 minutes.
This sauce is now ready for further use (lobsters, prawns,
fish, chicken dishes). If the sauce is a bit too thin, it should
be thickened with a little cornstarch mixed with coconut milk.
Lobster in Coconut Turmeric Sauce(Kamba wa Nazi na Manjano) Serves four.
Ingredients
2 lobsters at 1 kg to 1.2 kg each
20 g butter
1 bunch fresh coriander, chopped roughly
500 ml coconut turmeric sauce (see below)
Salt/pepper
Preparation
1. Split lobsters lengthwise into halves using a large sharp
knife.
2. Remove tail flesh, remove the centre and cut flesh
into one-inch cubes.
3. Clean the shell by removing the intestines, rinse,
dry and place into the oven to dry.
4. Meanwhile, heat the butter in a saucepan, season
the lobster cubes with salt and pepper and gently toss
in the butter until half done.
5. Add the coconut turmeric sauce and gently simmer
for a minute and evenly fill into the hot shells. Sprinkle
with the coriander and serve.
Coconut Spinach (Mchicha wa Nazi)Serves four.
Ingredients
2 tablespoon vegetable oil or butter
30 g onions, finely chopped
50 g ginger, fresh, chopped
1/4 chilli, fresh, chopped (without seeds)
125 ml coconut milk, first press
1 pinch salt
1/2 kg spinach, stalks removed, washed
Preparation
1. Heat oil in a stewing pan, add onions, ginger and chillies
and fry quickly.
2. Add coconut milk and bring everything to the boil, add
spinach leaves and cover. Add salt.
3. Lower heat and gently simmer for about five minutes.
Preparation of coconut milk
1. Split coconut in half, remove coconut water and set aside.
2. Remove flesh from shell and grate finely*.
3. Place grated coconut into a strong piece of cloth and
twist hard to squeeze out the milk. Open cloth, pour coco-
nut water on it, and repeat the extraction process.
4. Place coconut in a bowl and pour a little boiling water on
it – repeat the process, pressing. This milk is weaker and
may be used for curries, sauces, etc.
*This can also be done in a kitchen blender by cutting
the coconut flesh into slices and using the coconut water
obtained after splitting coconut (see step 1) >>
30 | asante | may – july 2011
Grilled Thaffi (Samaki wa Kupaka)Serves four.
Thaffi is fish of average size (about eight inches long) found
along the Kenyan coast, with a smooth scale-free skin,
silvery in colour. However, any fish can be used for the
following recipe. If necessary, scale the fish after gutting
and cut away the fins. Make incision cuts on both sides of
fish to allow the marinade to penetrate well. You may also
use fish fillets (with the skin left on), so incision cuts are not
necessary. These are better baked in the oven.
Ingredients
4 whole fish
Salt to taste
Oil
Marinade
Preparation
1. Rub the marinade into the fish and allow to marinate
for about six hours. Do not use salt in the marinade
since this will draw water from the tissue of the fish,
making it dry.
2. Remove fish from marinade, sprinkle it on both sides
with salt then dip it in a little oil and gently grill it on both
sides until done. Serve on a large flat platter with the
coconut sauce separate.
Preparation of Marinade Mix the following ingredients
10 g chopped garlic
50 g onions, chopped
1 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 chilli small, chopped
1 handful fresh coriander leaves
20 g tomato paste
2 tablespoon oil
Some ground black pepper
Marinated Grilled Chicken (Kuku Paka)Serves four.
Ingredients
1 large chicken (2 legs, 2 breasts)
2 tablespoon oil
15 g garlic, chopped roughly
15 g fresh ginger, chopped roughly
2 tomatoes, sliced
1 green pepper, cleaned, sliced
1 medium onion
2 lime (juice)
2 coconuts (for milk see recipe of coconut spinach)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Preparation
1. Place garlic, ginger, tomatoes, pepper, onions and lime juice
in the mortar and pound until fine. (This can also be done in
a blender.)
2. Remove skin from chicken, season with salt and
pepper, brush with oil and gently grill on a charcoal grill,
half-cooked.
3. Put remaining oil into a pan and gently fry the pounded
mix, add the coconut milk and simmer together for
5-10 minutes.
4. Remove the grilled chicken pieces and place them in
the sauce, bring back to boiling point and keep hot and
serve as soon as chicken is cooked through.
Serve with steamed rice.
Cardamom Fudge
Ingredients
1/2 kg - 30 pieces
1 litre milk (fresh or pasteurised)
400 g sugar
8 cardamom pods
Preparation
1. Place cardamom pods in a mortar and crush to remove
seeds.
2. Put all the ingredients in a pot and boil, stirring constantly
until very thick. It will appear like caramel. To test, add
a little cold water – it must become a solid little ball.
3. Pour on an oiled baking tray, allow to cool a little,
then cut with a sharp knife into 2 cm squares.
food
>>
may – july 2011 | asante | 31
32 | asante | may – july 2011
Above:
Hell’s Gate
features tall
cliffs that
offer rigorous
tests for rock
climbers.
We were in the belly of the earth, in the second circle
The earth had opened to reveal a deep pit, filled with shades.
Here, my guide told me, resided the shadows.
Canto XIV
The earth began to close in as we descended the final few
steps to the shimmering floor of the Great Rift Valley.
Under the relentless glare of the Equatorial sun, we
stepped, Dante-like, across the threshold of the Gate of Hell,
accompanied by our guide and a dozen other souls filled with
earthly wonder.
Officially known as the Mount Longonot and Hell’s Gate
National Parks, this 120-square-kilometre wonderland northwest
of Nairobi is famous for the thrilling walks that skirt its sheer
red cliffs. The highest point in the parks is the peak of Mount
Longonot, a spectacular volcanic crater whose lopsided rim
climbs to 3,321 metres and descends to
2,187 metres, making it a relatively easy
climb – or so some say!
Ol Njorowa Gorge, more commonly
known as Hell’s Gate, is home to a series
feature
ell and eavenH
After a steep slog through a stinking earthly purgatory, Marie-Anne Kinyanjui discovers a sweet new sanctuary on the roof of the world.
of surreal hot springs, which gasp steam and an unforgettable
sulphuric stench. Some of the springs in the gorge are boiling
hot, as if the fires of Hell lurk directly beneath them. The gorge’s
violent origins are everywhere evident in huge piles of coarse
volcanic rocks, among which glint great lumps of the tough glassy
black rock, obsidian.
Our descent began down a steep, stony path into the gorge,
where the main challenge was trying to stay upright. I had the
perverse pleasure of watching a member of our group (the kind
who insist that every insect is carrying the Black Death and is out
to get them) slide down the steep slope. Although the smell of
rotten eggs attacks you as you pass through the gorge, the sight
of the earth spitting boiling water can be quite compelling. “It’s as
though the trapped souls below are burrowing upwards to escape
the prods of the Devil’s fork,” said a particularly poetic member of
the group. I just found it fascinating.
Our guide obviously agreed. Holding a large three-pronged
stick, he stood surveying his kingdom, undaunted by the smell
and chattering to us about physics, geography and eagles – a
lovely oratory that I missed most of because I was too busy ogling
the plants that miraculously thrive in this natural hothouse. If
truth be told, I was also keeping a wary eye open for lions.
Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ix P
ublis
hers
/Sha
kira
Cha
udry
may – july 2011 | asante | 33
When we started up the rise out of the gorge, we were
greeted not only by the sweet air of the savannah, but by a
sweeping expanse of scrubland dotted with small herds of gazelle
and impala – among which, I’m sure, lurked the odd lion. The
park’s main gate is actually called Elsa Gate after the lioness
that won the hearts of George and Joy Adamson, who released
some of their famous charges here. Hell’s Gate was also one of
locations for the filming of Sheena – Queen of the Jungle and
The Lion King. The main locations for Lion King, including Pride
Rock and the Gorge, are modelled after Hell’s Gate National Park.
Apart from the wondrous wildlife and the marvellous people,
I always find the air to be one of the most enduring memories of
a Kenyan safari. The air here seems to contain the entire
essence of Africa, spread out beneath some of the world’s
biggest and bluest skies. In Hell’s Gate, I will always remember
the wind, which was of the variety that sweeps all the cobwebs
from your mind. According to the obnoxious lady, it carried the
pestilence that will kill us all.
After a brief rest, it was time for our trek into the game park,
unarmed and covered only in Spartan clothing to brave the wild
creatures and plants of Hades. We managed to pass a menacing
group of buffalo without incident, only to be speared by a vicious
variety of grass. Although the idea of walking through a park can
be quite daunting, rest assured: there has not been a single
animal attack on a human in Hell’s Gate for the past decade.
Or so our guide told us.
Either way, the walk through the park is definitely an experience
that will attach itself to your memory for life – particularly if, like me,
feature
you have spent most of yours stuck in areas where the meanest
predator is the neighbour’s cat.
Our next port of call was the cloudy peak of Mount Longonot,
which is called a mountain but for serious climbers probably
constitutes little more than a big hill. I personally felt like I was
scaling the windy heights of the Himalayas. As we began our
ascent, the sun tentatively began the day’s assault, making for a
climb in pleasantly intense heat. We left behind the steamy gates
of Hell for the lofty blue heights of Heaven.
At first, we arrogantly struck our way up the modest incline,
but after an hour’s climbing our confident strides were reduced to
a miserable shuffle, which for some of us ceased altogether. The
path was dusty and the dust seemed to have only one purpose:
to inveigle itself in every noon and cranny of our sweaty bodies.
The vegetation was thorny and scrub-like, and, our guide happily
told us, probably concealed a few more ravenous animals. That
thought alone managed to induce a new, revitalised spring in our
step. Before we realised it, we had arrived at the first peak.
Here we found a beautiful vista awaiting us, which could only
have been created by a very magnanimous god. Sitting with the
park spread out like a green and yellow carpet before us, we felt
like the proprietors of Heaven itself. Antelope and zebra could
be seen placidly wandering in the park. As if on cue, a ray of
sunlight broke through a cloud to stroke a finger of gold across
the ground. On the wavy horizon, the waters of Lake Naivasha
shimmered in the sun.
After half an hour exploring our nest in the sky, we began an
uneventful descent. I began to wonder if the animals in the park
were actually there or if they had somehow become as tame as
they were in Eden. Not even a single rush by a disturbed leopard!
Taking the beaten path down to our campsite, the whole group
lapsed into a reverent silence, like so many pilgrims returning
from the roof of the world. Even a slight drizzle of rain could not
dampen our enlightened spirits. And, for once, the annoying lady
had nothing bad to say.
Above:
Volcanic
crater of
Mount
Longonot
characterised
by lopsided
knife-edge
crater rim
and eroded
slopes.
Right:
Giraffe,
Mount
Longonot and
Hell’s Gate
National Park.
I always find the air to be one of the most enduring memories of a Kenyan safari.
Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ix
Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ix
34 | asante | may – july 2011
When the poet Walter de la Mare first penned these
succinct lines, he was surely only hinting at the
lustrous lineage of this floral gem whose origins
are etched in antiquity and entwined with the scent of
historical romance.
Their names and descriptions read like the social column of a
glossy magazine: Madame Hardy, enchanting in white silk, set off
by her green eyes: Madame Pierre Oger, in the palest blush-pink
even on the wettest day; Mrs Anthony Waterer, beguiling in
the deepest crimson; and archiduc Joseph, a veritable dandy in
shades of orange, pink, and mauve.
These are the old roses. Most have their ancestry rooted deep
in the past. Others made their debut in the 20th century. It is
their style as much as their age which earns them the epithet of
old. Characterised by their free-growing habit, flat, soft-coloured
flowers, and heady perfume, old roses bring a breath of mystery
and fascination into the garden.
Certainly, they are a breed apart from the comparatively
scentless, short and spiky specimens which feature in public
gardens all over the world.
New roses contain a high-centered bloom, are resistant to
wind and weather, and are largely baldness.
But the Romans were not the only people to recognise the
beauty of the rose. Persian poets were waxing lyrical about the
magnificent flower in the ninth century AD, when petals were
used to make sweet-smelling potpourri and rose-water. The
Chinese were not far behind, developing an enduring love for
the rose, enshrining its beauty in their literature and art.
It was the Greeks who were believed to have introduced the
Romans to the rose. The Greek word for rose is rhodon and
Rhodos – the island of Rhodes – is almost certainly so named
because roses flourished there, nurtured by the temperate
climate.
From its humble origins, the rose has become a powerful
emblem in religious symbolism. Christianity adopted the red rose
as representative of Christ’s blood; Muslim legend relates that
the rose sprang from beads of the prophet Muhammad’s sweat;
and in Hindu mythology, Vishnu is said to have created his bride
Lakshmi from 108 large and 1,008 small rose petals.
Painters, poets, and writers, have recognised the romantic
beauty of the rose through the ages. William Shakespeare
included more than 60 roseate references in his work, and since
mediaeval times there has scarcely been a painter who has not
employed the symbolism in some way.
feature
Originating in the hedgerows of antiquity, the humble rose of old has risen to majesterial status
among horticulturists and gardeners alike, Sheila Copsey sheds love and light on this floral beauty.
Old Roses
may – july 2011 | asante | 35
bedeck her arboreal acres with a profusion of roses. Nurserymen
and gardeners in her employ were given an explicit brief; to scout
the four corners of the world for rose species and return with
them to Malmaison.
Even the Napoleonic Wars did not hamper Josephine’s gardening
enthusiasm. The British Navy lifted its blockade of the French ports
to let through a ship carrying plants destined for the illustrious
gardens. Thus it was that Malmaison at one time housed what
is thought to have been the largest collection of roses in the world.
How do we know so much about Malmaison and Josephine’s
passions? Here we are indebted as much to the artist as to the
empress. Pierre Joseph Redouté was employed by Josephine
to faithfully record the beauty and variety of her roses. This he
did with an unstinting accuracy which makes his drawings and
paintings invaluable to contemporary botanists and rose lovers.
Sadly, after Josephine’s death in 1814, Malmaison fell into
decay and disrepair. Only now is it being restored to its former
glory. But in the pictures of Redouté can be seen the full
splendour of Josephine’s garden and its height.
Josephine’s place in botanical history is enshrined in one of
the most beautiful old roses, appropriately called Souvenir de la
Malmaison. Though the rose hates wet weather, in sunshine it
is perfect, a neat flower of many petals and so pale that it can
appear white at the edges.
The fashion for naming roses after society patrons or
heros and heroines reached its height in the mid-19th
century. A popular name could spell success for a
rose at a time when nurserymen were engaged
in fierce competition.
In 1590, one of the favourite old roses – the
pink and white striped Rosa Mundi – was in
cultivation in Britain and France. It is probable that
this particular species originated in Persia and
found its way across Europe with a knight crusader.
The Rosa Mundi is a typical example of the
oldest cultivated form of the rose, the Gallica. The
rose had, and still has, considerable influence
on the development of the species, providing the
stock for many other crosses and hybrids. Rosa
Mundi, like the rest of the family, flowers once each
summer, has a fabulous perfume, and needs very
little attention. Colours vary from palest pink to the
red-black of Tuscany Superb and include striped
roses such as Tricolore de Flandre and Georges
Vibert. They have only one drawback – they bloom
for only three weeks each year.
The search to find a rose whose transient beauty
could be persuaded to reappear more than once
a summer, became a thorn in the side of growers
throughout the world. Eventually the trail led to a
small island in the Indian Ocean. Towards the end
of the 18th century a strange marriage took place
on the Ile de Bourbon, now known as Réunion.
An old annually flowering China rose called
Parson’s Pink was growing in a hedge alongside the damask rose,
Quatre Saisons, which had its flowering season in the autumn.
The two roses cross-fertilised naturally to create what is now
called the Bourbon rose, a family of beautiful and often exotic
roses which flower atleast twice in summer and will continue
flowering until the first weeks of winter.
The Bourbons include such stunning varieties as Variegata di
Bologna, a huge bush displaying blooms of white striped with deep
mauve; Zephirine Drouchin, the famous thornless rose, with a
redolent perfume which fills the evening air; and Boule de Neige,
living up to its name with pure white flowers which reflex into
perfect pompoms and often last long enough to see the first snows.
The Bourbons also gave rise to one of those elusive
conundrums which rose lovers enjoy so much. For many years
growers cultivated a beautiful pale pink rose called Blairi No.
2. Oddly, there was no trace of what growers and cultivators
believed must have been Blairi No. 1. Eventually Mr. Graham Start
Thomas, an eminent gardener and rose expert, rediscovered the
rose in the 1970s and reintroduced it to cultivation. Now, Blairi
No. 1, a softer pink and more temperamental rose, grows in the
finest gardens beside its younger brother.
The history of old roses and the fact that they still exist today
owes much to two people – one an empress, the other an artist.
When Napoleon gave Empress Josephine a new chateau at
Malmaison, a short carriage drive from Paris, she might have
chosen any theme for her garden. The French style of the time,
formal parterre with gravel paths and petite box hedges, was still
fashionable. Happily for every rose lover, the empress decided to
feature
>>
36 | asante | may – july 2011
Roses are honoured as one of the most popular flowers
in the world, reckoned as the queen of flowers, and even
sometimes as the flower of roses. Historically dating 35
million years, the rose flower culturally carries symbolic
meanings depending on the variety, colour and even number
of roses. For instance the red rose is popularly known
as the flower of love. Due to their aesthetic beauty they
serve as decorations for both outdoor and indoor settings.
Some are used for landscaping purposes, others for hedging
and even some for utilitarian purposes such as game cover.
Due to their charming fragrance they constitute commercial
perfumery. While the oil from the plant produces perfumes,
the leaves and roots are used in teas and jams for
medicinal purposes.
Rose flowers are a major export earner for many
countries in the world when sold as commercial cut flower
crops. They are valued all over the world as a gift especially
during Valentines Day, Mother’s Day and Christmas.
Presently, over 100 species of roses are found. Natives,
cultivars and hybrids are all widely grown with the smallest
types attaining a height of less than 61 centimetres and the
largest growing as high as 610 centimetres.
In Tanzania for instance nearly all the commercial farms
in the floriculture industry are located in the northern parts
of Arusha and Kilimanjaro and more than 75 per cent of the
total flowers produced are fresh cut roses. More than
a dozen varieties of roses are produced and chiefly exported
to the European Union.
While Kenya’s rose industry is amongst the oldest and
largest in Africa it is indeed a chief export earner. Some of
the largest flower farms are located in the Rift Valley region
around Lake Naivasha. The peak season for export of roses
is February during Valentine’s Day. Nearly 70 per cent of
all the roses produced are exported to European countries
such as Holland, Germany, Switzerland, France and the
United Kingdom.
Uganda, also a big exporter of roses to Europe, produces
27 varieties of roses commercially including the Viva (bright
yellow), Chelsea (orange), Akito (white), Meera (champagne),
Marie Claire (orange flame), Samoa (deep orange), Blushing
Akito (pink), Poeme (pink), Lambada (orange), Red Calypso
(bright red), and Valentino (dark red). Uganda offers great
competitive edge due to its hot and humid climate that
gives it potential to achieve very high yields of small roses
(sweethearts) which account for more than 65 per cent of
the European market demand.
When Grace Darling rowed out into the briny to save
seafarers from the storm, she could hardly have imagined that
her braveness would also guarantee success for a rose named
after her. The rose Grace Darling emerged in 1884 and quickly
became a favourite.
The name of one stunning white rose changed more than once
along with the political climate. Introduced in 1901 as Frau Karl
Druschki, this particular rose lost popularity in England, France,
and America at the outbreak of the First World War. The rose
soon became widely known again as Snow queen, and it was under
that name that it held its place as the premier white rose, up until
20 years ago. Such is the confusion over this one rose that it is
also known as Reine des Neiges and white American beauty.
Another war was to change the name of one of the best loved
roses of all time. The French grower Meilland was working on a
particular lovely rose known simply as 3-35-40 when the Nazis
invaded Czechoslovakia. Pale cream with pink edges, he decided
to name the rose Madame Meilland after his mother.
As the enemy forces moved steadily across Europe and ever
closer he resolved to send the seedlings to collaborating growers
in Germany, Italy, and America, rather than see them destroyed in
the fighting. Cut off from the other growers, Meilland progressed
with the development of his rose until, at the end of hostilities, he
was to discover just how successful it had become.
In Italy it was much admired and being sold as joy. In Germany
similar success had resulted in it being named The Glory of God.
But the rose reached its pinnacle of glory in America, where it
achieved first prize and the highest rating ever in the All-American
Rose selection trials. In its honour, and to celebrate its success
in the year that war in Europe ceased, the rose was finally and
appropriately named Peace.
>>
feature
Rose Flowers
may – july 2011 | asante | 37
38 | asante | may – july 2011
Did you know that salt could dispel negative energies in your home? What colour candles should you light to encourage vitality? What can you use instead of harmful chemicals to kill bacteria? Gilly Pickup suggests 10 ways to heal your home and make it into a Happy, Healthy Environment.
1. Don’t SmokeIt pollutes the home environment with toxins and makes it
unhealthy for everyone else. Besides all the other well-publicised
health risks, it has been positively identified as a factor in the
development of asthma in youngsters. Have a fresh, attractive
home without nasty nicotine stains on the walls besides
reducing your risk of starting a house fire.
2. Clear the AirIncrease the healthy negative ions in the room. Positive (unhealthy)
ions outweigh negative ions when air becomes polluted, which can
lead to tiredness, irritability, muggy-headedness, headaches and
allergies. Plants, especially ferns and rubber plants are a good
natural way to encourage a healthy ion balance or you could invest
in an ioniser. Electromagnetic fields from household appliances
such as microwaves and televisions are thought to depress the
human immune system. Try to avoid placing electrical clocks, fans,
radios or answer machines near your head when sleeping and
don’t keep a television in the bedroom! Keep a reasonable distance
from your computer screen and television. In the kitchen,
do not use a microwave that appears to be malfunctioning.
3. Light Some Candles
They boost the positive energy in a room. Why not combine colour
to create a specific energy? Burning a red candle in a room will
encourage activity and vitality, while blue is the colour to bring
serenity or if you want to meditate. Go for zingy orange when you
want to get a party going. Burn white candles as you listen to your
favourite music for a relaxing, chilled experience.
4. Throw Those Windows Open Make sure the air you breathe is constantly renewed by opening
the windows every day. This will allow pollutants from furnishings,
cooking, heating systems and cleaning products to clear.
feature
Heal your OME
Long ago when houses had chimneys it took just a few minutes
for a complete change of air but with today’s efficient insulation
it can take several hours. If someone in your home has asthma
and you have a gas cooker check carefully that you have proper
ventilation. Placing a few large houseplants around your home
soaks up pollutants too.
5. Salt of the EarthA natural cleanser and purifier, salt can be used to overcome
negative energies in your home. Sprinkle some sea, rock or
cooking salt in the corners of each room, invoking its protective
qualities with a prayer or visualisation as you do so. You could
also place wind chimes round your home. According to Native
American tradition, this creates a protective healing circle, as
they believe the salt grains absorb evil spirits.
6. Use Essential OilsAfter an argument, you can try misting a room with rescue
remedy to help dispel negative emotions. Bergamot, frankin-
cense, lavender or sandalwood is just the ticket for those times
when you feel stressed. For an emotional lift burn geranium,
jasmine or rose and if going to sleep is a problem, use clary
sage. Coughs and colds respond well to eucalyptus, tea tree or
rosemary. Put a couple of drops of the oil in water and pour in
the top of a lighted burner or just add a few drops to a bowl of
water and place on a radiator. As it evaporates, its aroma will
fill the room. You can also add a few drops to a plant mister and
spray the room.
7. Mirror, Mirror on the WallThe Chinese think mirrors are great at keeping chi energy
flowing through the home. Mirrors expand energy and deflect bad
influences. For example, placing a mirror on the bathroom door
will stop ‘wealth energy’ flowing in where it will be flushed away.
may – july 2011 | asante | 39
They can expand a hallway and are great for spaces that need
to draw in natural sunlight. Amazing things happen when you
use a mirror that effectively pulls in the outdoors and warmth
from the sun. Avoid mirrors in the bedroom if you want a
good night’s sleep though. Energy needs to be concentrated
not expanded.
8. Shun ChemicalsAvoid using harsh chemical products in the home. Always try
to use natural cleaning materials rather than bleach and
chemical disinfectants, which can cause allergic reactions.
Don’t use pesticides like fly sprays or woodworm treatments.
Natural remedies are normally just as effective. Repel insects
by using lavender oil; kill bacteria by diluting lemon or tea tree
in water. To make a natural glass cleaner, combine some white
vinegar and warm water together and pour into a spray bottle.
Spray on surface to be cleaned and wipe dry.
9. Space Clear your Way to a Great Atmosphere Cleanse the atmosphere of your home by ‘smudging’.
This centuries old ritual burns herbs such
as cedar wood, sage, lavender or and
lemongrass to help restore positive energy
to a room. Tie a bunch of herbs together and
light them. Then waft the smoke around
yourself before wafting it to the east, south,
north, west then above and finally to the ground.
You can use your favourite incense stick if you
prefer. (Be careful you don’t set anything alight!)
10. Use Entrance Mats and Remove ShoesUsing mats and taking off your shoes inside greatly
reduces dirt, pesticides and bacteria in the house.
The soil around most homes is contaminated with lead,
pesticides and lawn chemicals. In homes where people
routinely remove their shoes when they enter, the levels of
house dust are lower than in homes where people do not
routinely remove shoes. Carpeting holds up to a 100 times
the amount of dust as bare flooring.
Driver Training for harsh environments
www.OnCourse4wd.com tech @ OnCourse4wd.com
+256 772 22 11 07
A Piece Of Tranquility in Dynamic Kampala
40 | asante | may – july 2011
Afeature
Walking around many towns in East Africa, you’ll
notice the abundance of abstract sculptures in
wood and stone. In urban communities not yet
100 years old, where cultures are still so firmly rooted in age-old
traditions, it comes as something of a surprise to find this world
of modern art.
Yet, remember that the inspiration for Picasso and so many
other artists of his time came from Africa. European art, which
had struggled with the problem of
representing reality, finally reached
a point of where it simply could go
no further.
Perspective and proportion,
colour and light were worked with
familiar ease. Even the advent of
democracy, which gave birth to
social realism and freed artists
from the suffocating world of
romanticism and classicism, failed
to satisfy their quest for ‘reality’.
Even so, it was intuitively felt that
art could and should go further –
there had to be another point of
view, another hitherto unexplored
world of human experience left for
man to chart.
The clue, of course, came from
Africa in the form of masks and
statues brought back to Europe
by explorers, missionaries and
traders. An art form – unconcerned
about realism in the western sense
– it plainly sought to express, through
symbolism and abstraction, something
about man and his place in the universe.
Distortion and exaggeration,
simplification and suggestion soon
became an intergral feature of European
art. Thus the seeds of what was to
become known as Surrealism were sown.
Perhaps the most interesting traditional
art in East Africa – and certainly the most
striking – is Makonde, from the tribe
of the same name. Originally from
the equatorial rain forests of the
One of the most exciting – and valuable – art forms to be discovered by the western world in recent times is the ageless sculpture of the Makonde tribe. The strange but beautiful forms of their ebony carvings all tell a story reflecting tribal legends and folklore, says Jack Crowther.
Congo, they migrated and settled in the isolated Ravuma Valley
of southern Tanzania some 2,000 years ago, where their culture
remained unchanged by any outside influences.
Their wood-carving skills not only survived, but flourished, as
the Makonde sought to ensure the protection of their heritage
through a system of mass education of each generation.
The story- teller not only related their history, but specifically
instructed the younger males in their culture, mythology and
customs. Wood carving was also taught so that they
could ‘read’ and ‘write’ their family histories.
Inevitably, specialisation of labour occurred as
each village became well established, secure and
more prosperous. The result was that master
craftsmen were eventually commissioned to carve
the family trees while the other men followed
different pursuits.
Family trees take three basic forms. One
commemorates a specific event in the life of a
specific family. Generally 30 to 46 centimetres
high, the sculpture tells a complete story, which
is read from top to bottom. The symbol at the top
indicates the subject of the story, while the dominant
figure represents the family to whom the story
relates. The symbol appears throughout the story
and the various figures represent the family members
involved in the event.
The Makonde migration from the Congo to East
Africa is a common theme. The dominant symbol, not
surprisingly, features luggage being carried on the
head. Other common themes are farming and trade.
The second form of family-tree sculpture traces the
family lineage, usually in carvings ranging around 91
and 122 centimetres high, though larger and older
families will have even taller trees.
Since Makonde society is matrilineal, the mother is
always the dominant figure. In older works, they will be
represented with a donyo, or upper lip plug – a symbol
of fertility. The larger the donyo, the more children she
will have had, and the more respect she commands.
While concentrating on the line of inheritance from
mother to daughter, the story-teller also depicts individual
family members going about their normal activities, such
as hoeing, milking, smoking, and drinking.
Recently, a new type of family-tree sculpture
emerged in Tanzania. Known as Ujamma, after
bstractfrica
may – july 2011 | asante | 41
The African Blackwood or mpingo is traditionally the
preferred wood for makonde carvings. Being greatly prized
by carvers, it has long been over-harvested across the
African continent rendering it endangered. Due to high
commercial demands for the makonde carvings, many
sculptors are seeking alternatives such as the less hardy
variety of the muhugu, which is a type of African mahogany
and the African rose wood (mpera vitu). These woods
require less arduous effort to sculpt and meet the
raw-material demand in the face of shortages of the African
Blackwood (mpingo). Also due mainly to the tourist trade,
other types of wood such as coconut are used. Some
sculptors have also learnt to carve in stone and coral.
Today, many communities and organisations are taking
initiative to conserve the endangered African Blackwood
(mpingo) and to overcome illegal logging which is
widespread. In Tanzania for instance, an export ban on
mpingo tree has been imposed. Also sellers of hard woods
and Makonde carvings are required to be registered and
their mpingo wood certified.
feature
the communal villages founded under Julius Nyerere’s African
socialism, these sculptures feature social events that have taken
place in modern Tanzania.
There are no dominant figures as most of the sculptures
show various aspects of peasant life. Even if westerners aren’t
entirely capable of reading them, these carvings are quite
realistic narratives.
Where modern European art has sought to express human
consciousness and emotions, the makonde artist salutes the
world of spirits that influence human life. This abstract style is
far from symbolic – it is the embodiment of the spirit itself.
Makonde people believe in good and bad spirits, Mawingo
and Shaitani. The absence of Mawingo and or the presence of
Shaitani determine an individual’s well being.
Commissioned to deal with a spirit influencing someone’s life,
the story-teller studies a suitably shaped piece of wood and then
carves away the excess to reveal the spirit.
To do this, he also studies the shadows cast by the wood;
for the real spirit lies in a non-tangible world – the world of
shadows. As he cuts and scrapes the excess wood away, the
shadows begin to take on the spirit’s shape until, finally, it is
revealed.
Indeed, when looking at Makonde Abstract, remember – it
is not the aesthetics of the piece that are important, but the
shadows. As such, the work must be properly lit for it to come
alive. One simple rule of thumb applies to Makonde Abstract – if
the piece is pleasing to the eye, it is Mawingo. If it looks evil,
then it is Shaitani.
While each piece of Makonde Abstract is unique, there are
several common themes which reflect both the concerns and
the values of the Makonde people.
Most Mawingo carvings deal with sexuality – fertility and virility
being the gift of good spirits. Shaitani carvings, on the other
hand, deal with ill-health – sickness wrought upon an individual
by evil spirits.
There are also many common symbols: an elephant can refer
to long life, virility, and strength. A chameleon speaks of change,
and birds are synonymous with the female spirit. Specific birds
have different meanings.
The owl is a mother-figure. The horn-bill is all-seeing and the
eagle far-sighted. Snakes symbolise the evil of temptation, teeth
represent hunger and the desire for a good harvest, the gourd
stands for water and the mother – the givers of life and love.
There are two final traditions of Makonde sculpture – ‘Love’
and ‘Unity’. ‘Love’ is a circular structure with the male on top,
the woman beneath, expressing the Makonde philosophy of
Love’s need for give and take.
‘Unity’ is basically the same but includes the outline of a
child – for within the circle of love, the child brings unity.
‘Love’ pieces are traditionally given by the mother when a
daughter marries, while ‘Unity’ pieces are given to celebrate the
birth of her daughter’s first child. Since each piece is specifically
commissioned, the
symbols employed change
with the individual.
All Makonde sculptures
are made from ebony
– an extremely hard
and long lasting tropical
hardwood which has
some specific qualities
that lend themselves to
high-quality work. Its even
consistency prevents
chipping and peeling and,
when properly finished, it
acquires a high gloss and
pleasantly soft sheen.
More importantly,
ebony seems to come
alive under a warm light.
Its rich tones are accentuated, while the contours of the piece
are highlighted by the now-revealed grain.
When buying Makonde wood sculptures, test them for
heaviness and look for the warm and subtle tones of colour
under a bright light. Anything else may simply be stained
hardwood. To keep your piece looking good, don’t forget to give
it proper lighting and a little wax and polish from time to time.
No matter what you buy, Makonde is a truly valuable work
of art – and an attractive and interesting compliment to any
home or office.
African Blackwood (Mpingo Tree)
42 | asante | may – july 2011
MIND YOUR LANGUAGE!
feature
Despite the globalisation of commerce, most business
is still done on an individual, one-to-one basis and it is
often the small gestures that make or break a business
relationship. Not convinced? Try waving at a Vietnamese
manager, pointing at a Ugandan director with your left hand or
hugging a Taiwanese company president out of sheer enthusiasm
– and you may find your carefully prepared business trip rapidly
going wrong. You might have done your homework over charts
and statistics and even studied a phrase book or two, but the
chances are you’ll still be confused if a Frenchman points to
his eye, a Chinese bursts into laughter or a German raps his
knuckles on the conference table.
Welcome to the baffling world of body language – that’s belly
language (haragei) to the Japanese and face–reading (nunchi)
to the Koreans. We might well get by with body language in the
bedroom, but when it comes to more formal relationships it’s
more likely to cause discomfort and confusion. The Taiwanese will
be offended by your hugging, the Ugandan mortally insulted by
your pointing, and as for the Vietnamese, he won’t be impressed
– waving in the Western manner is used strictly to attract the
attention of dogs. A German rapping his knuckles, meanwhile,
is merely saying hello – a substitute for a handshake if he or
she can’t reach you across a wide conference table. As for the
Frenchman pointing to his eye, he’s saying “You can’t fool me”,
and it’s time to rethink your negotiations. And don’t imagine these
passing gestures are trivial in the face of multimillion-dollar deals.
Many Western business negotiators have misinterpreted a
Chinese smile as a sign of satisfaction or pleasure. In fact, a
smiling Chinese is far more likely to be signalling emotions ranging
from embarrassment or polite disbelief to total anger.
The international etiquette of body language is full of pitfalls
right from the first moments of the introduction. Shaking hands
has become a universally accepted form of greeting, certainly.
But a Japanese will want to give only the lightest and most
fleeting of grips, while most Arab businessmen like to maintain
a lingering hold and would think it ungracious for the other
to withdraw. The Arab thinks the Japanese is unfriendly; the
Japanese thinks the Arab embarrassingly effusive and possibly
even intimidating. A Frenchman walks into work every day and
formally shakes hands even with his closest colleague; an Arab
may well embrace warmly and kiss on the cheek. Arabs would get
on well in Mexico, where embraces are also common, but they’d
get a cool reception in Germany, where body contact ends with a
firm handshake.
In Uganda western-style handshaking has become the norm,
although generally much less pressure is applied to the clasp.
Traditionally members of the opposite sex don’t touch, even to
shake hands, although exceptions are usually made for foreign
businesswomen. More unusual is that you’ll be expected to shake
hands with someone every time you meet, even if that’s several
times in the same day. As the relationship develops, so does the
body language.
In the Far East bowing has traditionally served in place of a
handshake, but foreigners would be wrong to assume a bow
is merely a form of greeting – it may equally convey sorrow,
sympathy, congratulations or thanks. Koreans and Japanese bow
frequently, traditionally minded Chinese and Taiwanese less (they
might applaud instead on entering a meeting), and it’s virtually
unknown elsewhere. Singaporeans, despite being ethnic Chinese,
don’t bow. Japanese-owned stores in Singapore once attempted
to transfer social custom by having employees bow to customers,
only to find that Singaporeans reacted negatively to what they
considered excessive obsequiousness.
When meeting foreigners, most Japanese and Korean business
people make do with a handshake and a slight dip of the head and
shoulders, sometimes called a shadow bow. It’s fine to reciprocate
in like manner, but a bow will impress. In Korea, a bow is carried
out by keeping the back and legs straight and bending from the
waist; men keep their palms behind them on their buttocks, while
women fold their arms across their chest. In Japan men’s hands
are kept at the sides with palms against the thighs, while women
fold their arms across their waist. The deeper the bow, the more
respect is conveyed. Koreans will seldom bow more than once,
but in Japan repeated bowing shows particular respect or apology.
A significant difference between handshaking and bowing
is that the latter doesn’t involve physical contact. In general,
Asians aren’t a tactile people, especially in formal settings, and
physical contact other than a handshake should be avoided.
Arm patting, arms around the shoulders, hands on knees,
and other signs of friendliness only make the average Asian
In the world of international travel, body language is serious matter, says Brian Johnston.
may – july 2011 | asante | 43
businessman feel uncomfortable; most businesswomen would
feel highly embarrassed by physical contact with foreigners of
either sex. (While the same is true of Arab women, Arab men
would consider such lack of physical contact cold and aloof.) This
doesn’t mean that foreigners have a restricted body language,
however, as many cultures place great importance on unspoken
signs and non-verbal signals. A Filipino raising his eyebrows
is politely saying no; an Indian wagging his head from side to
side is in total agreement (westerners, on the contrary, would
be disagreeing), while a Chinese with his palm down making
scratching motions with his fingers is inviting you to come closer.
In Europe, a Frenchman flicking his fingers on his cheek is bored
to tears. Then there’s the famous Gallic shrug, which can either
mean ‘It doesn’t worry me’ or, more alarmingly ‘What do you
expect me to do about it?’ And, of course, a French person
making the OK sign, far from indicating that everything is OK,
is simply referring to the number zero. An Englishman giving the
thumbs up will be indicating agreement or success; a German will
only be indicating the number one.
Having grasped the meaning of some non-verbal signals
doesn’t give you a licence to twitch indiscriminately, pull faces,
and poke and prod, however. In Mediterranean and Latin
American countries gesticulating wildly and talking with the
hands is more than acceptable, but many Asians would consider
such actions wild and impolite – and indeed, often construe
such unrefined waving as a sign of anger. People in the Far East
generally keep their hands clasped in their laps or on the tabletop
when seated. Feet should be kept under control too. Its an insult
to point at a Thai with the sole of your foot, even inadvertently if
your legs are crossed. The same is true in Malaysia, Indonesia,
Pakistan and Arab countries, where the foot should always be
flat on the floor while
seated, or curled
towards the body if
on cushions. Tapping
the feet, swinging the
legs and placing feet
on furniture in the
manner of Westerners
is considered uncouth
almost everywhere
else. So is the Western
habit of standing
with hands on hips
or in pockets. To the
Chinese this is an
indication of obstinacy;
to the Mexicans a challenge, and to the Indonesians downright
aggressive, since the gesture shows defiance in traditional
wayang (shadow-puppet) shows.
Having got your arms and legs under control, it’s time to
remember that those twitching facial muscles can be equally
misleading. Europeans and North Americans place great
importance on direct eye contact, which implies friendliness
and sincerity in Western cultures. (Lack of eye contact denotes
boredom or disinterest; eye contact maintained too long,
however, is either aggressive or flirtatious.) Thais, on the other
hand, find direct looks offensive, and they may embarrass
Japanese, though Koreans and Chinese maintain almost as
much eye contact as Europeans.
Western business people smile to show friendliness and
agreement, but when it comes down to important negotiations
a serious expression is deemed appropriate. Nothing could be
more different in the Far East, where people tend to talk about
serious matters with a smile or even a short laugh, believing
that they are being less confrontational and perhaps making
the truth more palatable. A laughing Filipino will certainly have
arrived at the most vital point of his or her negotiations – while
the American business partner is still puzzling over what the
joke might be. The Japanese will often smile before delivering
bad news, while Thais generally smile to diffuse conflict; the
combination is rather disconcerting, even totally misleading,
for those unused to cultural differences. But don’t imagine
your smiling business partner wont be indicating his impatience,
frustration or annoyance in other ways, such as by sucking his
breath through his teeth. Chinese from Shanghai to Singapore
might wave their hands in a fan-like motion in front of their
faces, not because they’re feeling hot but to show their
disagreement or even anger.
Not that your negotiations
could ever possibly deteriorate
to such a level, providing you
follow the golden rule:
if in doubt, don’t wiggle it.
No one ever got offended
anywhere by controlled body
movements, and all you have
to do is head off into the
sunset with your deal tucked
into your briefcase. Just
remember as you depart,
don’t bother waving at the
Vietnamese – and keep
on smiling.
feature
Most business is still done on an individual one-to-one basis and it is often the small gestures that make or break a business relationship.
44 | asante | may – july 2011
health
In fact, it’s now becoming apparent that owning a pet isn’t
just beneficial in providing the kind of social and emotional
support you would expect, but actually promotes good health and
physical well-being in ways that are wholly surprising.
Repeated studies show pet-owners have lower stress levels,
lower cholesterol and lower blood pressure. In short, own a
pet – especially a dog – and you’ll almost certainly live longer.
The news is so good that insurance companies are starting to
lower premiums for pet owners, and numerous official health bodies
are recommending we adopt a pet.
Not into forming a lifetime relationship with a pampered pooch or
feckless feline? Don’t worry: just a few months of animal interaction
can do you good, and even stroking another owner’s animal can
have almost immediate effects on your well-being. (And, incidentally,
that of the animal: a dog’s blood pressure starts to drop almost as
soon as you start petting it, showing that the advantages work both
ways.) This is particularly true if you’re feeling stressed.
“We’ve shown over and over that it’s beneficial to be with a pet
when you’re under stress,” says Dr. Karen Allen of the State
University of New York. She should know, having studied some
of the most ridiculously stressed-out people on the planet: Wall
Street stockbrokers.
Dr. Allen studied stockbrokers who lived alone and who were
suffering from hypertension, and divided them into two groups.
Brokers in the first group took mainstream medication for their
condition, while those in the second group were given dogs and
told to look after them. Six months later, most of the pill-poppers
still had high blood pressure, while the pooch-petters had shown
significant improvement, with blood pressures down to within the
normal healthy range. Even Dr. Allen herself was taken aback at the
difference. “This study shows that if you have high blood pressure, a
pet is very good for you when you’re under stress,” she concluded.
“And pet ownership is especially good for you if
you have a limited support system” – in short, if you live alone.
But wait: there’s more. Snuggle up to your labrador or canoodle
with your cat and it might serve you very well indeed should you
ever have a heart attack. The American Journal of Cardiology
reported in 1995 that owning a dog increased your chances of
surviving a major heart attack by a very significant margin:
26 per cent survived among dog-owners, while only six per cent
of non-owners pulled through. Studies since then have backed up
the results and also demonstrated that cholesterol levels are two
per cent lower among those with furry friends, which translates
into a four per cent reduction in the chance of having a heart
If you’re a pet owner, you already know it: owning a pet is
good for you. You know it the minute you hear the pitter-patter
of claws across your kitchen floor, the thump of a happy tail
against the sofa, or the rumbling purr of a contented animal in
your lap. You feel it too, as those brown eyes gaze up at you with
trust and affection. Now science is supporting this sentimentality
with some good medical facts: chances are, you really will feel
better if you own a pet, says Mary Day.
Animal agicM
may – july 2011 | asante | 45
Pets provide comfort, pleasure and companionship, and make
us feel needed. In social settings, they often provide a topic of
conversation, a distraction, or a way of easing tensions. Indeed,
it’s well accepted that the presence of animals has a calming
effect; aquariums of fish in particular are known to induce a
sense of well-being. NASA (National Aeronautics and space
Administrations) has considered sending pets into space to combat
loneliness and boredom among astronauts; children learn about
responsibility, love and even death from family pets. The effects are
numerous and difficult to document, but a Canadian study among
university students revealed higher self-esteem and confidence
among those who had owned a pet when they were young.
Similar benefits can be observed in the elderly. Elderly people
with dogs or cats make fewer visits to the doctor because they’re
more active and better able to deal with social isolation. Many
point to a feeling of purpose and fulfilment derived from looking
after their furry friends, especially for those whose spouse has
passed away. Sadly, it has also been shown that the elderly,
the blind and wheelchair patients receive more attention when
accompanied by a dog, and more social indifference when out
on their own.
The emotional impact of animals is particularly significant in
patients recovering from a major illness or accident. This isn’t
a new idea: in ancient Egypt and Greece, dogs were used in the
healing centres attached to temples, where it was recognised
that the presence of animals helped to calm patients and speed
their recovery. (As their tongues were thought to be cleansing,
dogs were also encouraged to lick patients’ wounds!) These days,
the use of therapy dogs and other pets has become almost
standard practice in many of the world’s hospitals, mental
institutions and rehabilitation centres. The benefits are many:
Alzheimer’s patients remember more and pay better attention
after they’ve watched brightly-coloured fish in an aquarium, AIDS
patients suffer from lower rates of depression when around cats
and dogs, while those with major injuries from car accidents
seem to heal more quickly when animals pay them periodic visits
in the ward.
Some final testimonial to the power of the pampered pooch?
It might be a sad indictment of our times, but in a recent survey
conducted by the American Animal Hospital Association, half of all
the people they asked said they’d rather be stranded on a desert
island with their pet than with another human. To add insult to
injury, 40 per cent of women said their pets understood their
moods better than their husbands did!
attack in the first place. This was particularly true of dog owners,
perhaps because they tend to get significantly more exercise than
those who own another pet, or no pet at all. If you’re going to pick
the perfect companion, it seems dogs will encourage you to live
longer than any other creature.
Other effects from our pets are just being discovered and
are imperfectly understood. In 1999, South African doctors
determined that 15 minutes of dog-stroking resulted in
hormonal changes in both human and dog. Further studies
seem to suggest that these include the release of oxytocin,
prolactin and serotonin, all known as ‘feel-good’ hormones.
Indeed, serotonin is known to elevate mood, and is used clinically
to treat aggressive personality disorders – in other words, it
makes people friendlier. A similar result can be obtained from
eating chocolate, but note this: while eating chocolate makes
you gain weight, petting a dog might actually make you lose it!
Caressing a pet reduces the level of the stress hormone
cortisol, which is mainly responsible for regulating appetite and
the craving for carbohydrates. Curiously enough, though, cortisol
control is only observed when someone strokes their own pet,
not when they stroke an unfamiliar animal or a stuffed toy.
As the evidence piles up that pet ownership has physical
benefits, researchers also point out their enormous emotional
impact. “There’s no question that emotions have an impact on
health,” says Dr. Freedman, a pioneer of studies into humans
and pets, and head of the Department of Health and Nutrition
Sciences at Brooklyn College in the USA. ‘It has been shown
that the presence of a friendly pet can have a positive effect.’
But she cautions that studies are difficult to undertake and judge
scientifically because of the many factors involved. It may be that
owning a pet makes you more positive, or it may be that positive
people are simply more likely to become pet owners. On top of
that, Dr. Freedman adds: “It’s not clear that a person actually
has to own the animal to get the effect.”
Still, actual ownership is clearly an emotional decision
and animal lovers would be quick to point out the benefits.
health
46 | asante | may – july 2011
ASANTE NEWS
YOUR FEEDBACKTravel Agents Product Training Workshop
Special Offer to KigaliAir Uganda has extended their special offer for USD 49 return
(taxes exclusive) between Entebbe and Kigali. This fantastic offer
is valid until 15 May 2011 on only Air Uganda operated flights.
For more information on this offer, please contact Air Uganda at
any of our sales and ticketing offices in Uganda and Kigali or visit
our website at www.air-uganda.com.
Amazing Offer to Mombasa and ZanzibarIt’s true; you can fly between Entebbe, Mombasa and Zanzibar
at half price.Buy one return ticket and get the second at 50
per cent off. Fly direct from Entebbe to Mombasa or Zanzibar
with your loved one. Don’t stress about your honeymoon or
holiday. This offer is valid until 28 April 2011.
Terms and conditions apply.
Holiday PackagesParadise is wherever you choose to go; take a trip with any of
our holiday packages, well planned and packaged to suit your
desires. Whichever one of our holiday packages you choose; you
will experience the bliss of luxurious get-away. Choose to unwind
today with Air Uganda. Log on to www.air-uganda.com or email
us at [email protected] and book your holiday today.
Above: Travel Agents with certificates awarded to them at the workshop.
Above: Ms. Njeri Wachira, Air Uganda Country Manager for Kenya, awards Travel Agents with certificates.
I am now an avid passenger with Air Uganda. I must admit that flying was never ‘my thing’ in the past, until only recently. In the past my flying experience left me distressed, I dreaded travelling by air. I recall one time how the night before my flight I could hardly sleep. So distressed was I that I even contemplated cancelling my trip, something I had done a few times before when going for personal trips. And I did.
The checking into the airport, the usual delays, the long queues, the endless cancellation of flights, routine drills of safety precautions, turbulences, the sideways tilting or turning of the plane … was a constant nightmare for every flight I took and at times I could not even take food on board. Many times I could not figure out what was going on in the air except for the welcoming voice of the captain whom I couldn’t see and yet entrusted my safety to.
Some regional flights were indeed dreadful, a litany of lamentation: constant cancellations of flights, delays, uncomfortable planes that were low flying and slow moving all made me resort to driving rather than flying regionally. All these personal problems and misgivings about air travel hindered me from enjoying air transport.
Then about four years ago I had a major breakthrough. I spoke to Air Uganda and discussed my challenges and fear with them. I learned from Air Uganda that safety communication before any flight was mandatory in air transport and that turbulences which may cause inconvenience should not cause any worry so long as your seatbelt is fastened at all times when seated. They were able to allay my fears regarding safety. They explained to me that the pilots have many years of experience, and that the fleet was regularly serviced and that before every flight, a rigorous exercise of checking the plane’s airworthiness was undertaken by competent personnel.
The staff was very understanding and patient. They took time to explain everything to me, and this helped me gain confidence to fly. Since that breakthrough, I have successfully travelled 84 times with Air Uganda in the last four years. I fly comfortably with no fears, no sleepless nights before my trips and an end to the long hours I used to spend on the road. Being a regular customer, I find their rates and offers attractive and reasonable.
My hope and desire is that Air Uganda expands its operations to increase its routes to cover the whole of Africa and beyond. I am happy because of Air Uganda’s partnership with Qatar Airways and SN Brussels for it has eased my international travel connections. Thank you Air Uganda!Obed Akiriho
I recently flew with your airline from Nairobi to Entebbe. There was a mix up at the ticket counter and I was over-charged. An employee of Air Uganda, Christine Muli, assisted me and went to great lengths over a period of time to make sure that I was fully refunded for the overpayment. She handled this situation with excellent customer service and professionalism. I was exceedingly impressed with her integrity and diligence. I fly within the continent of Africa several times a year, sometimes with many travelling companions for business purposes. As a result of Christine’s service, we will make it a point to book our travels with Air Uganda. Harvey Wittmier
I travel regularly to Kampala but normally use Kenya or South Africa Airways. On 29 January I had my first experience with Air Uganda on flight U7 240 (Entebbe-Nairobi). The plane arrived late from Juba however, I was most impressed when the captain came into the departure lounge to firstly, apologize for the delay of 15 minutes and secondly, to assure us that boarding would begin in 5 minutes. And it did! Congratulations, that’s what I call customer service!Stephen Pead
Air Uganda held a Travel Agents workshop in Mombasa on 18
March 2011, to award travel consultants in recognition of their
support in 2010. The growth of Air Uganda in Mombasa can
be attributed to the strong partnership with travel partners.
Air Uganda is part of the Aga Khan Fund for Economic
Development and is the only airline that flies directly between
Mombasa and Entebbe and three times daily from Nairobi.
may – july 2011 | asante | 47
ASANTE NEWS AIR UGANDA FLIGHT SCHEDULE
Seasonal Flights to both Mombasa and Zanzibar:01 Jan-30 April 2011 – Flights 2 times weekly Thursday and Sunday. | 01 May-30 June 2011 – No flights during this season.
01 July-30 Aug 2011 – Flights 2 times weekly on Thursday and Sunday. | 01 Sept-30 Nov 2011 – No flights during this season.01 Dec-11 Jan 2012 – Flights 2 times weekly on Thursday and Sunday.
ENTEBBE - NAIROBIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 202 06:30 Hrs 07:40 Hrs Mon,Tue ,Wed ,Thur, & Fri U7 206 14:30 Hrs 15:35 Hrs Tue ,Wed ,Thur, & Fri U7 202 08:30 Hrs 09:40 Hrs SatU7 206 12:20 Hrs 13:25 Hrs SunU7 204 16:45 Hrs 17:50 Hrs SatU7 204 18:45 Hrs 19:50 Hrs Mon,Tue,Wed. Thur, Fri & Sun
NAIROBI - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 203 08:15 Hrs 09:25 Hrs Mon,Tue ,Wed ,Thur & FriU7 207 16:15 Hrs 17:20 Hrs Tue ,Wed ,Thur & FriU7 203 10:15 Hrs 11:25 Hrs SatU7 207 13:55 Hrs 15:00 Hrs SunU7 205 18:20 Hrs 19:25 Hrs SatU7 205 20:30 Hrs 21:30 Hrs Mon,Tue,Wed. Thur, Fri & Sun
ENTEBBE - JUBAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 120 10:15 Hrs 11:15 Hrs Mon, Tue, Wed & ThurU7 120 14:45 Hrs 15:45 Hrs FriU7 120 12:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs SatU7 120 15:15 Hrs 16:15 Hrs Sun
JUBA - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 119 12:00 Hrs 13:00 Hrs MonU7 119 12:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs Tue, Wed & ThurU7 119 16:45 Hrs 17:45 Hrs FriU7 119 13:55 Hrs 14:55 Hrs SatU7 119 17:00 Hrs 18:00 Hrs Sun
ENTEBBE - ZANZIBAR ( DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE TILL 1 MAY 2011)FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 340 09:00 Hrs 11:40 Hrs ThurU7 340 09:00 Hrs 11:35 Hrs Sun
ZANZIBAR - ENTEBBE ( DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE TILL 1 MAY 2011)FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 341 12:10 Hrs 13:50 Hrs ThurU7 341 12:05 Hrs 14:50 Hrs Sun
ENTEBBE - DAR ES SALAAMFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 320 13:00 Hrs 14:45 Hrs MonU7 320 14:45 Hrs 16:30 Hrs Tue, Wed & ThurU7 320 11:30 Hrs 13:15 Hrs FriU7 320 15:30 Hrs 17:15 Hrs Sun
DAR ES SALAAM - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 321 15:20 Hrs 17:05 Hrs MonU7 321 17:05 Hrs 18:50 Hrs Tue,Wed & ThurU7 321 13:55 Hrs 15:40 Hrs FriU7 321 17:50 Hrs 19:35 Hrs Sun
ENTEBBE - MOMBASA (DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE TILL 1 MAY 2011)FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 340 09:00 Hrs 10:40 Hrs Thur & SunMOMBASA - ENTEBEE (DIRECT FLIGHTS AVAILABLE TILL 1 MAY 2011)
FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCYU7 341 11:10 Hrs 13:50 Hrs ThurU7 341 13:10 Hrs 14:50 Hrs Sun
ENTEBBE - KIGALIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 350 09:30 Hrs 09:15 Hrs Mon U7 350 12:00 Hrs 11:45 Hrs Tue & Wed U7 350 09:55 Hrs 09:40 Hrs ThurU7 352 16:15 Hrs 16:00 Hrs FriU7 352 16:00 Hrs 15:45 Hrs Sun
KIGALI - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 351 10:00 Hrs 11:45 Hrs Mon U7 351 12:15 Hrs 14:00 Hrs Tue & Wed U7 351 10:15 Hrs 12:00 Hrs ThurU7 353 16:30 Hrs 18:15 Hrs FriU7 353 16:15 Hrs 18:00 Hrs Sun
For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on 041 2 165555 in KAMPALA
48 | asante | may – july 2011
For your own comfort try • and travel light.
Wear loose clothing and • elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.
Increase your normal • intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.
Use moisturising cream to • keep your skin from drying out.
Take off shoes in the • plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.
Avoid heavy meals during • the flight.
Short walks once every • two hours are excellent for circulation.
Try to touch your toes • when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.
On arrival at your • destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.
On arrival a quick jog, • brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.
Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.
Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.
Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.
Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals.
Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.
Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.
Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.
Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.
Other Tips for a Comfortable Flight
These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise.
Foot pumps:
Start with both heels on the
floor and point feet upward
as high as you can. Then
put both feet flat on the
floor. Then lift heels high,
keeping the balls of your feet
on the floor. Continue cycle
in 30-second intervals.
Knee lifts:
Lift leg with knees bent while
contracting your thigh muscles.
Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30
times for each leg.
HEALTHY TRAVELLING
may – july 2011 | asante | 49
ROUTE MAPHEALTHY TRAVELLING
Entebbe
Seasonal flights to both Mombasa
and Zanzibar:see flight schedule
on page 47.
Flight connection on Jetlink
Flight connection on Zan Air
50 | asante | may – july 2011
AIR UGANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES
Kampala Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555 +256 (0) 312 165 555 Email: [email protected] Fax: +256 (0) 414 258 267 Jubilee Insurance Centre,1st Floor, Podium Level, Plot 14 Parliment Avenue, Kampala, Uganda. P. O. Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.
Dar es Salaam Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 783 111 983 +255 (0) 222 133 322 Email: [email protected] View Towers J-Mall, 1st Floor, Samora Avenue, P.O. Box 22636, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.
Nairobi Sales Office: Tel: +254 (0) 20 313 933 Email: [email protected] 5th Floor, Jubilee Insurance Building,Gen Kago Street, Nairobi, Kenya.
Mombasa Sales Office:Tel: +254 (0) 20 313 933 +254 (0) 734 605 203Email: [email protected] Floor, TSS Towers, Nkrumah Road, Mombasa, Kenya.
Zanzibar Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 242 233 506/7 +255 (0) 713 666 602 Email: [email protected] Office no. 23, Mlandege Street, Muzammil Center BuildingP.O. Box 22636, Zanzibar, Tanzania.
Juba Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 477 153 912 Email: [email protected] Hai Suk Street, (Opp. the Mosque) Juba, Sudan.
Kigali Sales Office: Tel: +250 (0) 252 577 926 +250 (0) 252 577 928 +250 (0) 788 380 926 +250 (0) 722 926 926 Email: [email protected] Office No. 26 UTC (Union Trade Centre) Building, Town Centre. Kigali, Rwanda.
Head Office: Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4 +256 (0) 417 717 401 Fax: +256 414 500 932 Email: [email protected] Investment House, Plot 4, Wampewo Avenue, Kololo.P.O.Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.
Entebbe International Airport (Ticketing Office): Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 41771722 Email: [email protected] or [email protected] 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building, Entebbe, Uganda.
PLEASE NOTE : After working hours: Weekdays (17:45 hrs - 21:00 hrs), Saturday (14:00 hrs - 21:00 hrs) and Sunday (07:30 hrs - 21:00 hrs) Please call our Entebbe ticketing office on Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222 for assistance.
may – july 2011 | asante | 51
LandUganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain.
ClimateAlthough situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year.
TopographyIt is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux.
EconomyUganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers.
LanguageEnglish is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo.
Electric supplyAll installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment.
TimeUganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Timeremains constant throughout the year.
PeopleThe people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English.
ExcursionsUganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-the-road driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya.
HotelsThere are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels.
Banking hoursThere is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 hours on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200 hours. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 hours on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 hours on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities.
CommunicationsTelephone, telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes.
Medical servicesUganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.
CurrencyUganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates.
Credit cardsInternational credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops.
Working hoursShops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 hours on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400 hours. Some busi-nesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 hours and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items.
Public Holidays
20111 January New Year’s Day26 January Liberation Day8 March International Women’s Day22 April Good Friday25 April Easter Monday1 May Labour Day3 June Martyrs’ Day9 June National Heroes’ Day30 August Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan)9 October Independence Day6 November Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice)25 December Christmas Day26 December Boxing Day
Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate.
CustomsBesides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale.
Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies.
Health requirementsVisitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking.
Visa and immigration requirementsVisa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted.
Taxi servicesTaxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance.
Car rentalSeveral firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a driver-translator is recommended).
Entebbe International AirportThe main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar.
SecurityThe same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Becareful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.
TIPS FOR THE TRAVELLER IN UGANDA
52 | asante | may – july 2011
CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU
Clues Across1. Geometric food? (6,4)
6. Get a taxi here for the film maker. (4)
10. Extinct flightless birds. (5)
11. A dominant move for condemnation. (9)
12. Misleadingly-named, he is often relatively small. (8)
13. Colossal vote for burst of fire. (5)
15. This bun sounds like food and drink! (7)
17. Vectors turns to shelters. (7)
19. Confused beast of burden swallows direct debit and takes note. (7)
21. Alarm as mixture produces wine! (7)
22. Land of broken heart? (5)
24. Sneers so badly at painful discomfort. (8)
27. Timely one around very quiet mystery tour. (9)
28. Cooker for the wide-open space perhaps. (5)
29. It ebbs and flows as edit returns. (4)
30. Glen tenses up but reveals mildness of character. (10)
Clues Down1. Sidney adds point for the team. (4)
2. Beneath the labourer, that’s sneaky! (9)
3. Rinse out the plant exudation. (5)
4. Ed omits to turn for fashionable dressmaker. (7)
5. Two men brought to account with calendar. (7)
7. Where there’s this, there’s a way! (1,4)
8. Famously portrayed by Yul Brynner (4,2,4)
9. Permit ended Jewish festival. (8)
14. Extinguished problems with the postal service? (7,3)
16. Everyone present and compos mentis. (3,5)
18. Don sarees to produce better driving? (4.5)
20. Food is put everywhere to contain quarrel. (7)
21. Melodic embellishment. (7)
23. Rodney takes in PE and is tied. (5)
25. Bravery – this is sensitive. (5)
26. Busy creatures! (4)
Place a number from
1 to 9 in every empty
cell so that each row,
each column and each
3x3 box contains all
the numbers from 1
to 9. No number can
appear twice in a row,
column or 3x3 box.
Do not guess – you
can work it out by a
process of elimination.
Crossword
Sudoku
16 17 18
19 20
22
21
23 24 25
26
27 28
3029
13
15
14
12
11
9
7 81 2 3 4 5 6
10
2 6
6
6
9
1
99
8
84
86
42
99
93
8
62
1
74
7
15
2
2
Answers across1. Square meal | 6. Rank | 10. Dodos | 11. Damnation | 12. Grandson | 13. Salvo | 15. Teacake | 17. Coverts | 19. Muddled | 21. Marsala | 22. Earth | 24. Soreness | 27. Opportune | 28. Range | 29. Tide | 30. Gentleness |
Answers down1. Side | 2. Underhand | 3. Resin | 4. Modiste | 5. Almanac | 7. A will | 8. King of Siam | 9. Passover | 14. Stamped out | 16. All there | 18. Road sense | 20. Dispute | 21. Mordent | 23. Roped | 25. Nerve | 26.Bees |
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