asimplelate_summerperenialbed16x10.pdf

7/25/2019 ASimpleLate_SummerPerenialBed16x10.pdf

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WWW.BHG.COM/GARDENPLANS A S I M P L E L A T E - S U M M E R P E R E N N I A L B E D 1

GARDEN PLANS

C o p yr i g h t 2 0 0 5 , M e r e d i t h C o r p o r a t i o n .

A l l r i g h t s r e s e r ve d .

THIS PERENNIAL BED EXPLODES WITH COLOR IN LATESUMMER AND LOOKS GREAT THROUGHOUT THE FALL.

Seven perennials and one annual provide a variety of colors and textures throughout thegrowing season; a decorative birdbath adds a focal point.

A Simple Late-SummerPerennial Bed


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WWW.BHG.COM/GARDENPLANS A Simple Late-Summer Perennial Bed 2

A Simple Late-Summer Perennial Bed

P L A N T L I S T

*Zone recommendations are for the plant list shown; your local garden center can usually

recommend plant substitutions that will allow you to use this plan in other zones.

S I Z E : 1 6 X 1 0 F E E T

( I N C L U D I N G L A R G E R O C K S )

Z O N E S : 6 - 9 *

L I G H T : S U N

A 1 Monkshood (Aconitum carmichaelii): Zones 3-7B 1 Sedum Autumn Joy:Zones 3-10C 1 Fountaingrass (Pennisetum spp.): Zones 6-10, depending on speciesD 3 Red-hot poker (Kniphofia spp.): Zones 4-9, depending on speciesE 5 Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii Goldsturm): Zones 4-9F 1 Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia): Zones 3-9G 1 Feather reedgrass (Calamagrostis acutiflora Karl Foerster): Zones 5-9H 6 Romneya poppy (Romneya coulteri): Annual


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WWW.BHG.COM/GARDENPLANS 3

I N S T A L L I N G Y O U R P R E - D E S I G N E D G A R D E N

Before You Begin. Preparation is the key to successfully creatinga garden that will offer a lifetime of pleasure. Before you head to thenursery or lift a spade, take the time to review all garden plan materials.Ask yourself the following questions:

Do I have a suitable location for this plan?The layout diagram showsthe dimensions for the plan as designed. In general, you canenlarge or reduce the size of the garden by adding or eliminatingplants, although the character of the garden may change if youalter the size dramatically.

Does my yard offer t he right conditions?Check the plant list care-fully to see whether the plan will do best in full sun, partial shade, orfull shade. Also make sure that the plants are suited to your USDAGrowing Zone. (In many cases, the alternative plants list includesvarieties that will grow in other zones.)

Does my soil need improvement? Most plants will survive in a varietyof soil conditions, but well-drained, moist (but not soaked) soil isgenerally best. To test your soil, wet it thoroughly with a hose, wait24 hours, then squeeze a clump in your hand. If the soil forms aball that holds together, but breaks up easily when you poke it with

your finger, your soil is ideal. If the soil wont hold its shape whensqueezed, it is probably too sandy. If the clump doesnt break upeasily, the soil may be too clay. In either case, you can improveyour soil by mixing in organic matter like compost or peat moss.

Is my soils pH and fertility okay?Check at your local garden storefor a soil test kit, or inquire about testing at a local county extensionservice office. Follow the recommendations that come with yourtest results if you need to correct the soils pH (how acid or alkalinethe soil is) or fertility.

Creating the Bed. To lay out your bed, use a garden hose to markthe edges. When you are satisfied with the layout, use striping paint(available at many home centers) to mark the outline. (Or, sprinkle flouralong the hose for a more temporary mark.). Using a sharp spade, dig

along the marked line to set the edge of your bed.If the garden location is currently covered with lawn, you have a coupleof options. For smaller areas, you can strip the sod using a straight-edged shovel. To make this easier, wet the area thoroughly, then usethe shovel to cut the lawn into strips that are the width of the shoveland about three feet long. (Expert tip: Sharpen the edge of the shovelfrequently with a file.) Use the shovel to pry up and roll back the strips ofsod. Once the sod is removed, you can loosen the underlying soil with ashovel or a power tiller.

For larger areas covered by lawn, consider using a heavy-duty gardentiller to grind the sod into the underlying soil. This has the twin benefitsof adding organic matter to the soil and eliminating the need to discardor compost sod.

Regardless of how you are preparing your bed, be sure to use thisopportunity to mix in organic matter (such as compost, peat moss, orrotted manure) and loosen the soil at least 6 inches deep, or even 8 to12 inches if you can. Dont mix in fertilizer unless your soil test shows aneed; in general, excessive amounts of fertilizer will do more harm thangood.

After your bed is prepared, water it thoroughly and wait a week. Thiswill allow some weed seeds to germinate. Remove these seedlings ordig them back into the soil. If you choose to use chemicals to kill theweeds, follow the instructions to the letter, including the time to wait afterapplication before planting.

Edging.Most beds are easier to maintain if they have an edging thatkeeps surrounding grass or vegetation from invading. Choose plastic,metal, stone, or brickwhatever you prefer. If you have lawn aroundyour bed, consider also including a mowing strip, a 6 to 12 inch-wideswath of masonry or stone set even with the surrounding soil.

Planting. Now comes the fun part! If you have all of your plants onhand, keep them in their pots and set them out on the planting bed. Thiswill give you a preview of how the bed will look, and allow you to makeadjustments. Use the tags that come with the plants to ensure that thespacing is correct. Dont worry that the bed looks sparse; the youngplants need room to grow.

When you are satisfied with the arrangement, plant your garden fromlargest to smallest container (usually trees first, then shrubs, perennials,and finally annuals). Each plant type does best with a specific plantingmethod:

Trees. Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the pot or root ball anddeep enough so the top of the root ball or pot is slightly higherthan the surrounding soil. For potted trees, remove the tree fromthe pot, loosen the soil slightly around the roots, then place the

tree into the planting hole. For balled-and-burlapped trees, loosenthe burlap after the tree is in the hole, cutting away as much of theburlap as possible. When the tree is in place and straight, fill thehole one-third with soil, tap firmly to make good contact betweenroots and soil, then water. Repeat twice more until the hole is filled.Make a shallow collar of soil around the hole to catch water andhold it near the root zone. Water the tree thoroughly by letting ahose run slowly for 30 minutes.

Shrubs. Plant shrubs in a hole thats about twice the diameter of theroot ball. The top of the root ball should be slightly above the sur-rounding soil level. Backfill with garden soil, taping firmly to ensurea contact between soil and roots. Water immediately by slowlyrunning a hose at the shrubs base for about 20 minutes.

Perennials and Annuals. Set these plants in soil at the same level theywere growing in the pot. Firm the soil around each plant with yourhands, then water thoroughly.

Mulching. As you place each plant, its a good idea to add mulchto conserve moisture, cool the roots of plants, and to protect the soilfrom washing away in the rain. Organic mulches like shredded bark willrequire periodic additions as the mulch decays. Mulches like crushedstone are more permanent, but may not offer the character you prefer.

Aftercare. The first season of growth is the most critical for yourgarden. A good guideline is to water thoroughly every other day for thefirst two weeks, then twice weekly for the remainder of the first season.The following year, you can let nature take its course, supplementing dryperiods with deep watering.

You should also be diligent about weeding your bed during the firstyear. As the plants mature and fill in, there will be fewer opportunitiesfor weeds to gain a foothold. A thick layer of mulch will also help keepweeds in check.

Ongoing Maintenance. Most plants will thrive with only minimalcare. Apply a general fertilizer according to package directions in thespring after growth has started. If you need to prune trees or shrubsto maintain their shape or size, do it in late winter before growth hasstarted. The exception to this general rule is spring-flowering shrubs likelilacs that should be pruned immediately after flowering.


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asimplelate_summerperenialbed16x10.pdf

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