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27
e Arête Volume 45, Summer 2016 Steep & Stinky Skiing in Northern Norway Page 26 New Ontario Rock Guidebooks Page 20 Guiding, Exams and Pregnancy Page 34 Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse Page 28

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Page 1: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

The ArecircteVolume 45 Summer 2016

Steep amp Stinky Skiing in Northern Norway Page 26

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks Page 20

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy

Page 34

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse

Page 28

2 3 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Introducing a highly technical lightweightdouble boot engineered for alpinistsBuilt the Arcrsquoteryx way

Proud supporter of

The ArecircteldquoThe rope connecting two men on a mountain is more than nylon protection it is an organic thing that transmits subtle messages of intent and disposition from man to man it is an extension of the tactile senses a psychological bond a wire along which currents of

communication flowrdquo- Trevanian The Eiger Sanction

Editor-in-Chief Shaun King

Editorial Consultants Mary Clayton Peter Tucker Marc Picheacute

Editorial PolicyThe Arecircte attempts to print every submission believed to

be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction Ar-ticles containing insulting or defamatory sections will be edited or not published at all Technical articles are subject to review by the Technical Committee

Article submissions and advertising informationSubmission guidelines outlined on the ACMG members website

Submit articles and ads to newsacmgca

Cover photo The late Guy Edwards on the 2nd ascent (with a needle variant) of The Chilton-Must route (TD 510 240m) which encom-passed the east Buttress of the Blade and continued to the summit of Stiletto Peak in the Waddington Range BC Photo - Jia Condon

ContentsEditorialPresidentrsquos Perspective 4Tucker Talk 4

NewsCMSG Program Update 6Technical Directorrsquos Report 8IFMGA News 10MCR Informalex Committee Report 11Professional Practices Committee Report 11ACMG Partnership Program Update 12Continuing Professional Development Report 14ACMG Scholarship News 15Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted Area 16

Spotlight on ACMG MembersACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding 18New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from Justin Dwyer 20

FeaturesSteep amp Stinky - Skiing in Northern Norway 24Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 28Canadian Climbing Championships 32Guiding Exams and Pregnancy 34Backcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery 36A Brief History of Derriere Crag 38

TechnicalOsprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack Review 40Acrteryx Acrux SL Approach Shoe Review 42Delorme inReach Review 44Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel Review 46

Member UpdatesDiapers and Vows 48Changes in ACMG Membership 49ACMG Officers Directors Advisors Staff and Committees 50

4 5 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

This past winter the unthinkable happened when one of our members lost a client in a tragic avalanche Thatrsquos one of the powerful things about avalanches ndash their effects of-ten extend beyond the runout zones

When an incident such as this occurs many things kick into gear Organiza-tions such as the RCMP the coroner and WorkSafeBC take the investigative lead

to determine cause of death factors leading up to the fatal-ity issues relating to workplace regulations and whether any learning can come from the situation to inform possible future recommendations

Simultaneously the insurance underwriter broker adjust-er and lawyer(s) collaborate to determine whether the possi-bility of a lawsuit exists in which case a file is opened and an

Editorial

With the ACMG now at well over one thousand members the task of managing applications for new membership or rein-statement of former members has become quite a workload for the ACMG staff In the case of new applications we of course warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU) In these cases

applications are relatively easy to process When it comes to reinstatements or people applying greater than one year after completing their exam the process can be more complicated and quite time consuming for the Technical Director (TD) the Technical Committee (TC) and the administration staff

Given our primary mandate the TD and TC have a respon-sibility to ensure that aspirant members are at a current stan-dard prior to being readmitted as active members at any of their previous certification levels This is done by evaluating work history related recreational resume references recom-mendations and the amount of time that has lapsed since the person was last a member The TC then outlines what the applicant must do before being reinstated This can include but is not limited to further references CPDs training with a TRU instructor or repeating part or all of a certification stream The amount of time that the volunteer members of the TC and the paid TD spends on this can add up quickly In other words you as members are currently paying for this

There are a number of reasons why ACMG members decide to drop their membership They can be related to career or lifestyle changes geographic moves or financial constraints I would like to see some changes in our current reinstatement

Presidentrsquos PerspectiveBy Marc Ledwidge

ins to ensure the member is managing the stress providing assistance in working through all the details locating re-sources (including counselling) as needed and generally help-ing to navigate the inevitable maelstrom that follows serious incidents

If the incident stems from an avalanche then the ACMG needs to collaborate with various other associations or com-panies Avalanche Canada is the nexus for all things avalanche in the public realm so they are often the first to be called by media They refer the media to us or to the CAA if there is a professional avalanche worker involved Additionally in this situation we will often collaborate with the CAA and some-times the BLBCA to determine the best support for the worker

If there has been a serious injury or fatality to a client I immediately notify the ACMG insurance broker and adjuster They contact our lawyer and begin the process of determining that our member and therefore the ACMG has been properly covered Here is where the complexities start If the potential for a law suit exists the information gathered by the insurance team becomes closely held in order to reduce the chances of a successful suit Many people and organizations want to know what happened but we are constrained in what we can and should make public in case there is something that would en-courage or assist future litigation against the member

This push-pull is hard on the member who is already somewhat traumatized and difficult to reconcile with those who are interested in learning from the situation We would like to be as transparent about the incident as we can but we canrsquot risk that this might increase the likelihood of a successful

Tucker TalkBy Peter Tucker

process that would motivate members to seriously evaluate the consequences of dropping their membership regardless of the reasons before doing so The reinstatement process also needs to ensure that you as members are no longer pay-ing for a service that we provide to non-members

By the time this goes to print your Board of Directors will have discussed options to completely cost recover these membership reinstatements One of the challenges for the administration staff is to be able to invoice and get paid by applicants requesting reinstatement Since they are not mem-bers we cannot simply charge their account There have been cases where applicants seeking reinstatement have dropped their request presumably after deciding that they did not like requirements set by the TC In some cases the costs incurred by the Association have not been recovered Currently we charge a $100 administrative fee for reinstatements In most cases that fee does not cover the cost of the real work outlined above I will be proposing that anyone requesting reinstate-ment as active members pay a much larger sum up front before the application will be considered The idea is similar to a legal retainer where the amount of time that the TD and TC spends on the file will be billed against that fee Once the reinstate-ment is completed assuming that the amount of time spent on the file is less than the up front fee the applicant would get a refund This is of course exclusive of membership fees In more complicated cases the applicant may also get asked for further funds before the process can continue I hope that these changes will ensure a process that is fair to both you as members and to applicants seeking reinstatement Have a great summer

Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff AB

investigation may be commissioned Although the interests are somewhat different there may also be collaboration with the coroner so that investigations arenrsquot duplicated

So whatrsquos the role of the ACMG in these situations Well the answer is a bit complex and in some cases depends on the actions of others

As Executive Director I have responsibilities toward both the member(s) involved as well as the Association itself These responsibilities includebull Supporting our member(s)bull Liaising with other organizations such as the CAA Avalanche

Canada Heli-Cat Canada Backcountry Lodges of BC etcbull Liaising between the member(s) and our insurance teambull Responding to media calls

Member support usually takes the form of regular check-

suit against our member What I release to everyone especially the media has to be carefully crafted

People have two years from the date of the incident to file a statement of claim if they wish to initiate a law suit After that time the amount of information we can release increases al-lowing us to examine the situation for useful learning

The ACMG has recently struck a quality assurance commit-tee chaired by Mountain Guide Mark Klassen This committee is charged with establishing the procedures we need to follow when an accident occurs In late May ACMG President Marc Ledwidge Technical Director Marc Picheacute and I met with Karl Klassen from Avalanche Canada who is working with the BC Coronerrsquos office on investigation procedures Itrsquos clear that we need to improve all our processes to ensure our protocols are integrated across all the relevant organizations This will reduce duplication and increase clarity around what we all can and should do when disaster strikes

So what about a Conduct Review What if the member may have breached the ACMG Code of Conduct in one or more ways Do we sanction someone who has just gone through a terrible trauma or do we deny our prime mandate of protect-ing the public interest Can we use the information gathered in the investigation or do we need to do another perhaps with a different perspective These are difficult questions which your Board and I will be working to answer in the near future Just know that we will continue to do whatever we can to support any member who finds himherself in such a situation

Peter Tucker is the ACMG Executive Director living in Bragg Creek AB

(It Disappears)Patagoniarsquos Houdinireg

Jacket

It RunsIt RidesIt Climbs

copy 2016 Patagonia Inc

patagoniacomopportunist

PAT_S16_Houdini_ACMGArete_HPindd 1 52716 448 PM

6 7 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide Program Update

By Dwayne Congdon

News

ThanksThe listed individuals and businesses provided operational support for the Ski Guide certificate and the listed climbing facilities generously provided their venue for at least one Climbing Gym Instructor course over the past winter season This support is critical to the successful conduct of Guide Training Skiing courses Ski Guide exams and the Climbing Gym Instructor Program

2016 Ski Guide Exam and Climbing Instructor Pass RatesPass rates are posted below to allow ACMG members to monitor how effectively the CMSG program is preparing candidates to meet ACMG standards

Ski Guide StreamCharlie Locke (Lake Louise Ski Resort)Revelstoke Mountain Resort Sutton Place HotelWhistler Heli-SkiingWhistler Blackcomb Ski ResortSelkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingGreat Canadian Heli-skiingCMH Revelstoke Arrow HelicoptersAlpine HelicoptersCMH AdamantsSilver King Helicopters

Eastern Canada Hiking Guide CourseAs previously reported in the Arete a Hiking Guide course was recently completed (May 24-June 1) at Lake Placid New York The course was intended for guides based in Eastern Canada and included 6 participants The course used terrain in the Ad-irondack Mountains which proved to be ideal for the course objectives The instructors were Helen Sovdat and Bjarne Baek

Prior Learning Assessment and Recognition (PLAR)This spring four Ski Guides and two NOLS instructors used PLAR to obtain a Hiking Guide certificate of equivalency See Changes in ACMG Membership on page 49 for names

Winter Hiking CourseThis optional course is intended for Assistant Hiking Guides and Hiking Guides who wish to guide in winter conditions This two-day course replaces the ACMGrsquos winter travel accredi-tation process The course takes place in Lake Louise December 11 12

Course content will focus onbull Winter hazards (including avoiding avalanche terrain)bull Client care in winter conditions

bull Travel techniques (with snowshoes and traction devices or walking crampons)

bull Winter campingbull Interpretation in the winter environment

Changes to Movement Skills Screening (Skiing and Riding)Any person planning to apply to Guide Training Skiing is wel-come to screen their movement skills prior to applying This is recommended for applicants who are unsure their movement skills are at the screening standard

Starting in 2017 applicants who pass the screening will be allowed to carry their result forward into Guide Training Skiing and will not be required to re-screen

Two screening sessions are scheduled to take place on Jan 20 mdash one at Whistler Blackcomb and one at Kicking Horse Resort Contact the CMSG program office for further details

Dwayne Congdon is an ACMG Mountain Guide and coordinator of the CMSG Program at Thompson Rivers University in Kam-loops BC

Climbing Gym Instructor ProgramElevation Place mdash Canmore ABThe Boulders Climbing Gym mdash Sannichton BCClimb Base5 Climbing Gym mdash Coquitlam BCGround Up Climbing Centre mdash Squamish BCThe Calgary Climbing Centre (Hanger) mdash Calgary ABWilson Climbing Centre University of Alberta mdash EdmontonJunction Climbing Centre mdash London ON

2016 2015 2014Qualification Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate

Apprentice Ski Guidea 27 81 24 87 27 85

Ski Guide 33 82 21 76 36 67

Top Rope Climbing Instructorb 24 100 31 100 16 100

Climbing Gym Instructor 1 46 96 90 96 80 90

Climbing Gym Instructor 2 4 75 4 75 11 100

a One appeal pending and one re-test pendingb One course still pending

Claire Dixon amp Cornelius Brenninkmeyer Award This award is in memory of Claire Dixon and Cornelius Brennink-meyer who died in a snow caving accident in January 2007 Corne-lius was a student in the Ski Guide Certificate

The recipient is chosen by CMSG instructors and presented to a

Guide Training Skiing student who has demonstrated 1 Excellent leadership and people skills 2 Excellent technical skills 3 Superior attention to safety during guide training

The 2016 award recipient is Christine Feleki

8 9 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

Via FerrataUnder the leadership of ACMG Mountain Guide James Blench the Technical Commit-tee has been working on a draft proposal for our Via Ferrata training program It is cur-rently being reviewed by stakeholders and will be communicated to the membership once we have a better understanding of how

the process will workThe training program and certification will be strictly for

the low risk high ratio Via Ferrata installations with a very high level of operational risk management and oversight Initially it will likely only be available to existing ACMG members in the Top Rope Climbing Instructor Ski Guide and Hiking Guide streams and eventually we will build a stand alone course that will better serve operators in East-ern Canada and other areas where there is a low density of existing ACMG members

ManualsThe Climbing Gym Instructor manual was more or less com-pleted this winter and has been used on CGI courses this spring with positive feedback so far ACMG Webmaster Chris Miller is still working on the final touches for incorporating the instruc-tional videos and we hope to have the completed version soon as an EPUB document available on iBooks and other retailers soon

Creating this manual laid the foundation for how we can proceed with the technical manual for the Mountain Guide stream I have dedicated significant time to the Technical Manual project for this summer

Canadian Avalanche Association Terrain Competency CommitteeI continue to be involved in this committee however progress has been very slow over the winter with a few conference calls and some email threads Although a bit slower than everyone hoped I believe the direction will prove to be positive for all avalanche professionals in Canada

The ACMGrsquos continued role as a stakeholder in this dis-cussion is important as the outcome will affect the respon-sibilities of all CAA professional members

Apprentice Guide TimelinesWe continue to work on educating members about the Appren-tice Guide timelines at various stages of their careers It seems that over time people are generally becoming more understand-ing of the details of this policy and the reasons behind it

Technical Directorrsquos ReportBy Marc Picheacute

We have had a handful of applications for extensions over the course of the winter but only one new one was ap-proved The applications that were rejected were based on poor time and career management although challenging this is specifically what this policy is attempting to manage

At the end of the 2016 Ski Guide exam season there were three members who missed the timeline and will loose their status as ACMG Apprentice Ski Guides They will be able to reapply for membership but will be required to do some upgrading prior to be accepted and will be given a date by which time they will have to challenge the Ski Guide exam

If you passed an Apprentice exam in 2013 and have not yet completed the final certificate exam in that stream (or the Apprentice Alpine exam for Apprentice Rock Guides wishing to become Alpine Guides) this is your year

ACMGrsquos Role in Accidents and IncidentsIt is becoming increasingly evident that the ACMG must de-termine and define what its roles responsibilities and goals are with regards to accidents and incidents This is a very complex subject that is influenced by legal and cultural issues as well as the various other agencies and stakeholders involved Over the winter Executive Director Peter Tucker and myself have been involved in numerous phone calls and email threads with the Canadian Avalanche Association Backcountry Lodges of British Columbia Avalanche Canada and HeliCat Canada in an effort to answer the many questions we are all facing

The ACMG has had an Accident Committee working on aspects of this subject and we will be looking at how to in-corporate their findings while meeting ACMG goals More to comehellip

Arcrsquoteryx Mountain Conditions Report (MCR) AppThe MCR website and IOS mobile phone app were launched to the public mid-March and have been generally well received Arcrsquoteryx is in the process of working on version 2 which will include several upgrades with a focus on more filters both while viewing reports on the map and in list mode

Arcrsquoteryx has not yet promoted the MCR in their own social media campaign and plans to do so at some point during the summer This will greatly increase visits to the site however so far the level of interest has been quite high given that our only promotion has been through ACMG channels

As of the end of May the website has seen over 54000 page views by nearly 11000 users So far the app has been downloaded nearly 700 times with the majority being in

Canada and a smattering around the globe including Chi-na Japan and the UK

We are currently working with Arcrsquoteryx to help them move towards including other guides associations includ-ing the American Mountain Guides Association and several interested countries in Europe

VariancesThe Technical Committee has approved two variances for the coming summer They are for the Mount Norquay Via Ferrata and Yamnuskas Cadet Camp Glacier Program They can be viewed in more detail on the ACMG website There is a third variance currently being reviewed by the committee but due to the late application date it will not be complete by the begin-ning of the summer season

Russian Mountain Guides AssociationThis year we ran our second Ski Guide exam in the Mount El-brus area with the pass rates being similar to that of the Ca-

nadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program Students are quickly learning what level of dedication and training is necessary to be successful in this program

This year we also had our first observation from the IF-MGA Unfortunately the exam was being held during the IFMGA meetings so they were only able to observe on a training course This was an important next step for us in terms of determining the required work before Russia can be admitted into the IFMGA as a candidate country

Another significant step forward taken this year was that it was the first time we used a Russian instructor on a training course This was an important first step towards the Russian Mountain Guides Association becoming more independent in the future

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

View of the Caucasus Mountains from 4000m on Mt Elbrus during the RMGA Ski Guide Exam - Photo Marc Picheacute

10 11 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

I attended the IFMGA meetings in Sicily Italy in early May Technical Director Marc Picheacute was unable to be there as he was still committed in Russia To quote him ldquothe President had to attend without his security detailrdquo Over the past year the biggest issues facing the IFMGA have been the election of a new President and the move towards a double majority on voting

Incumbents Hanno Doenz from Austria and Christian Trommsdorff from France were both running for President Christian won the election He has been actively involved on the board is a dual national of France and Germany and is fluent in French German and English His platform was to commit to a mandate of inclusiveness with all of the IFMGA countries

The double majority vote was interesting In the current system each of the 23 member countries gets one vote for every 100 IFMGA Mountain Guides Canada gets two votes as we have between 100 and 200 Mountain Guides France Austria and Switzerland with well over 1000 Mountain Guides each get 12 to 13 votes There are currently a total of 71 votes This means that in the past countries like Canada the USA or New Zealand with only one or two votes would have little to no influence especially if the western European countries colluded on an issue Last fall the Swiss Guides Association

President Pierre Mathey put forward a motion that would require a double majority on voting on all issues This would mean that each country would retain its current number of votes but that a majority of member countries would also be required for motions to pass In other words a country like Canada would more or less have an equal voice to a country like Switzerland This is a big step and indicative of the com-mitment of the IFMGA towards inclusiveness The vote was almost unanimous with Spain surprisingly voting against this change (they currently have one vote) It was very encour-aging to see countries like France Switzerland Austria and Germany that hold the majority of votes support this motion

Other recent positive changes include the addition of two directors outside of the founding countries in mainland western Europe The board now includes a director from the UK (Mark Diggins) and one from Sweden (Mike Wright) Inci-dentally a double majority is what the ACMG is considering as a possible solution to the inequalities on voting for bylaw changes Currently only Mountain Guides can vote on these If a double majority was adopted all members could vote and a majority of all members plus a majority of Mountain Guides would be required More info on the IFMGA can be found at httpwwwivbvinfoenhomehtml

Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff AB

certainly be criticized for being ldquoRockies-centricrdquo In the future we would like to try again to organize MCR summaries for the Coast range and possibly a summary specific to the Interior ranges If anyone has any interest in being involved in either of those projects please get in touch with the MCR Informalex committee comm_mcracmgca

Finally thanks to the MCR Informalex committee for their work and especially Tom Wolfe for making the original email system work so smoothly all these years There are no changes planned to the current guidersquos Informalex

Larry Stanier an ACMG Mountain Guide and the MCR Infor-malex Committee Chair lives in Canmore AB

The big news in this little department is the new Mountain Conditions Report website If you havenrsquot done so (shame on you -) check it out at wwwmountainconditionscom Follow the instructions to sign up and start adding reports

I would really like to thank John Houss-er Kyle Goertzen James Bronson Jurgen

Watts and Raluca Axente from Arcrsquoteryx They have all been great to work with and have made the transition surprisingly smooth Our Technical Director Marc Picheacute did most of the initial work from the ACMGrsquos end and now it is being admin-istered by the ACMG Admin Assistant Elaine Powers I mostly just tried to stay out of their way

The MCR summaries for the Rockies and Columbia Moun-tains will continue to fill in the gap between the end and start of the Public Avalanche forecasting season These summaries can

IFMGA NewsBy Marc Ledwidge

BlackDiamondEquipmentcom

The Sharp End Shell Constructed with lightweight and durable GORE-TEXreg Pro for waterproof breathable protection

MCR Informalex Committee ReportBy Larry Stanier

Professional Practices Committee ReportBy Nathan Dahl

maintaining or enhancing the currency of onersquos knowledge in a specific area of practice The required technical skills are unique to onersquos practice and can only be adequately determined by the individual If you are uncertain whether or not a course meets the ACMG CPD requirements for your membership stream consult the Continuing Professional Development document on the ACMG member website under Governance gt CPD or send me an e-mail and we can discuss if it seems appropriate

By the time you are reading this the committee will have delivered the next round of audits to another 20 members and will be in the process of reviewing their files If you have any questions or comments about the audit process dont hesitate to get in touch with me at pro-practicesacmgca

Nathan Dahl Chair of the Professional Practices Committee is an ACMG Hiking Guide from Calgary AB

This past fall the Professional Practices Committee delivered its second audit to another 20 randomly selected members As before the selected members were asked to submit records of their professional practice and continuing professional development (CPD) for the past two years as well as a copy of their current First Aid certificate

Each file was then reviewed by two members of the Pro-fessional Practices Committee If all conditions of membership were met the member received an Unconditional Pass If one or more of the conditions of membership were not met the member received a Provisional Pass

Of the 20 members who were selected for the audit 17 passed without conditions and 3 received provisional passes As the intent of the committee is educational and corrective rather than punitive at this point no one has been asked to go inactive or resign

There are several reasons that one might not pass an au-dit Failure to provide a valid First Aid Certificate insufficient professional development insufficient professional practice or sufficient but inappropriate professional practice or professional development are all valid grounds for not passing There is also some confusion as to what can count towards CPD hours While some training is relatively straightforward (ACMG refreshers CMSG training programs Avalanche Canada courses Interpre-tive Guides Association courses) there is no single method for

12 13 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Partnership Program UpdateBy Ken Beacutelanger

News

The ACMG and its members are power-ful centres of influence in the international outdoor recreation world particularly in the winter arena The ACMG Partnership Program seeks to leverage this influence by creating partnerships with leading suppliers These partnerships involve cash products co-branding and cross-marketing to help

the ACMG reach its mandate of Protecting the Public Interest in Mountain Travel

PARTNERSHIPSPlease welcome the newest ACMG Partners

Osprey Packs Canada The best packs in the business is now a Proud Partner of the ACMG Check out their fantastic new Pro Purchase pricing for ACMG members The same company distributes Exped in Canada so there is a great new Pro Purchase there as well

adidas Sport Eyewearadidas prides itself on the highest quality optics They are

thrilled to be an ACMG Proud Partner and will sponsor the ACMG Board of Directors with eyewear Pro Purchase infor-mation is posted on the member website

G3 ndash Genuine Guide Gear G3 has increased their level of partnership support to Logan our highest category Theyrsquove committed to a fourth year of the G3 Early Bird ACMG Giveback Program watch for details this fall

Arcrsquoteryx Our 1 Partner continues to shine Together wersquove created a new Equipment Award Two ACMG recipients each year will receive $2000 in Arcrsquoteryx equipment Application details are on the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Arcrsquoteryx has generously donated 100 ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jackets to our association We have every size available except medium in both menrsquos and womenrsquos You can pur-chase one at any upcoming ACMG event (CPDs AGM etc) for only $150

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jacket

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG technical cap

The ACMG technical cap is here The Escapa hat from Arcrsquoteryx is a technical trucker hat con-structed of breathable nylon fabric with a stretch mesh back The laminated brim is pliable so it can be rolled or folded easily The reflective Arcrsquoteryx logo is offset by the stylish silk screened ACMG logo on the opposite side

Retail price on this hat is $50 + $8 silk screening + tax but thanks to our fantastic Logan ACMG Partnership with Arcrsquoteryx wersquore able to offer this for only $30 to ACMG members

Available in Nautic Grey in two sizes S-M (55-57cm) amp L-XL (58-60cm) Arcrsquoteryx hat sizing chart

Limited quantities and only available for purchase at ACMG events such as CPDs and the Annual General Meeting

inReach Canada inReach became an ACMG Columbia Partner at the beginning of the year When in the remote backcountry donrsquot just send an OK message use your device to send texts get weather forecasts and more ACMG members receive discounted pricing on com-munication plans

IntuitionRemember ACMG guests qualify for 15 off any Intuition Liner on their website using the special ACMG15 discount code Give them a call in Vancouver if you have any fitting questions ndash they

love ACMG members and guests and are always happy to help

Dynafit Dynafit is the newest ACMG Columbia Partner Our partner-ship will improve the communication between ACMG members and Dynafit North America as well as streamline the Pro Pur-chase program

EVENTS

2016 Banff Mountain Film amp Book FestivalThe ACMG will continue its sponsorship of the Best Guidebook award The ex-posure we received from our 2015 participation was sig-nificant We had a new high-profile booth location in the lobby area of the Eric Harvie (main) theatre Our logo and support was displayed at the Festival Tour in thousands of locations around North America

Arcrsquoteryx Climbing AcademyThe ACMG will have a booth and presence at the Arcrsquoteryx Climbing Academy in Squamish BC July 14-17 2016

We have many events planned for 2016 Wersquore always happy for help at any of them and Irsquoll make sure you get some swag for your efforts If you can help out please drop me a line at partnershipacmgca

I look forward to seeing you at this yearrsquos Annual General Meeting in Canmore October 15-16 All our Partners are in-vited to the Partner Expo Come check out the newest prod-ucts network directly with brands and attend custom clinics for ACMG members

The ACMGrsquos current list of Partners can be found here and on the back cover of this issue of The Arecircte

Please support our Partners as they support the ACMG

ACMG exhibitor booth Photo - Ken Beacutelanger

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

14 15 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Continuing Professional Development ReportBy Alison Dakin

News

Hello fellow members A big thumbs up for the excellent participation of our members in the various CPD workshops and presenta-tions of the past year During the 2015 CPD events in Squamish Canmore and Revelstoke almost all of the sessions had solid turnouts with many of the workshops being sold out

The big news for 2016 CPDs is the ex-pansion of the program to 3 days per event

with 3 different locales used Each year there will be a coastal interior and a Rockies event The goal is to provide opportunities for everyone to participate by rotating the season in which the events are scheduled in each area

During each 3 day event technical field courses will be bal-anced with soft skill workshops case histories and informational presentations will be linked to the popular ldquosocialrdquo event Atten-tion will be given to utilize the regionrsquos best attributes for access to rock snow ice climbing gyms flora and fauna and locally based instructors

In addition to the 3-day events we will also continue to hold several one-off sessions in different places These will include workshops for climbing gym instructors in some of our bigger city centres where these members often reside They will also in-

clude technical courses such as the ever popular ski coaching by Dave Honeyman (currently being offered in Banff Golden and Revelstoke)

One of the biggest challenges is to offer a variety of courses and workshops that are of interest and benefit for all disciplines within the ACMG membership From our recent member sur-vey we received some great feedback for new courses as well as some requests to re-do the better ones from the past If you have other suggestions for a CPD topic please let us know If you have contacts for the right skilled person to offer a workshop or presentation that is even better and can allow us to get right to the source Maybe that person is yourself (most excellent) or another member (also excellent) or perhaps you know a profes-sional from another realm who has skills and information to offer and share with our members It is this type of networking that brings the best from within our association as well as access to quality new people and ideas

Please contact me with any feedback about the CPD pro-cess at cpdacmgca Have a safe fun and rewarding summer

Alison Dakin an ACMG Ski amp Hiking Guide and the Continuing Professional Development Coordinator lives in Golden BC

ACMG Scholarship NewsBy Derek Wilding

Arcteryx Equipment Award The generous folks at Arcrsquoteryx have come through again in the form of a new award for apprentice members in the mountain stream The new Arcteryx Equipment Award will be distributed in the form of two $2000 equipment credits with Arcteryx to use towards their gear

Recipients will be selected based on the following criteria so be sure your application specifically highlights yourbull Commitment to professionalism and safety in the mountainsbull Drive to constantly push personal boundaries through adventures

activities andor in daily lifebull Ability to inspire friends and community to be active in mountain

sportsbull Stewardship of the environment

Arcrsquoteryx Product Development Training FundArcrsquoteryx has also graciously created a training award directed specifically at Apprentice Ski Guides who are in the process of pursuing certification The award will cover 3 days of training with a current CMSG instructor for 2 members and will also provide Arcrsquoteryx with an opportunity to connect with and gain valuable product feedback from the recipients

Digital application forms for the Arcrsquoteryx Equipment Award and Product Development Training Fund can be found in the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund Created by ACMG member Olivia Sofer in memory of her late husband Robson Gmoser this fund is intended to assist aspiring guides and instructors to obtain the mentorship that will help them succeed in their quest for certification Robson was a strong proponent of the value of mentorship in helping to develop the skills and behaviours of aspiring guides He believed that the re-lationship formed between mentor and student was absolutely the key to success

Eligibilitybull People who are currently enrolled in any part of Thompson Rivers

Universityrsquos Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (moun-tain hiking or climbing instructor programs) ndash they do not need to be ACMG members yet

bull ACMG members who are working toward progressing their cer-tification level

Selection Criteriabull Strength of applicationbull Strength of reference

Awardbull People who have engaged in a practicum opportunity may ap-

ply for reimbursement of funds to offset the mentorrsquos expenses in bringing the applicant along on the trip ndash funds are then sent to the mentor

bull People who are looking to improve their skill sets in order to progress in their certification levels may apply for funds to pay an individual instructor coach or trainer for specific trainingApplications can be found in the members section of the

ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Gmoser Mentorship Fund

There is no deadline for this application as they can be made any time of year

ACMG ScholarshipsIn addition applications for many other financial awards and funded training can be found on the member website including thebull Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for Apprentice

Guides)bull DrsquoArcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course

subsidy)bull Arcrsquoteryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies of $500 $1000

and $1500)bull Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies)

Continued on page 45

Left to right ACMG members Helen Sovdat Walter Bruns and Jasmin Caton at the 2014 Squamish rock CPD Photo - Jorg WIlz

16 17 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

THANK YOUFOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH

COMMUNITY AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY

AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS

7378 routes planned 8125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented16750 observations submitted WWWAVATECHCOM

Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted AreaBy Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass to teach the field day of an AST 1 course My group carpooled in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 15 hours while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal Canadian Army using the Howitzers

In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye-sight of the vehicles What I did not realize is that by mak-ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA) This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high-way and then wondered where we had gone

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per-mit in my truck in Revelstoke

I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and note the following bull Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highwaybull It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park

Permit while working in the National Parks bull The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a

court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine)

I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava-lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for my misconduct

Sabina Wodak an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Revelstoke BC

PROGENUINEGUIDEGEARCOM

STEPOUTSIDE

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW

EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration G3rsquos exclusive ACMG

Early Bird Pro Deal will be back this September

18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

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wka

lice

fr

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GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 2: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

2 3 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Introducing a highly technical lightweightdouble boot engineered for alpinistsBuilt the Arcrsquoteryx way

Proud supporter of

The ArecircteldquoThe rope connecting two men on a mountain is more than nylon protection it is an organic thing that transmits subtle messages of intent and disposition from man to man it is an extension of the tactile senses a psychological bond a wire along which currents of

communication flowrdquo- Trevanian The Eiger Sanction

Editor-in-Chief Shaun King

Editorial Consultants Mary Clayton Peter Tucker Marc Picheacute

Editorial PolicyThe Arecircte attempts to print every submission believed to

be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction Ar-ticles containing insulting or defamatory sections will be edited or not published at all Technical articles are subject to review by the Technical Committee

Article submissions and advertising informationSubmission guidelines outlined on the ACMG members website

Submit articles and ads to newsacmgca

Cover photo The late Guy Edwards on the 2nd ascent (with a needle variant) of The Chilton-Must route (TD 510 240m) which encom-passed the east Buttress of the Blade and continued to the summit of Stiletto Peak in the Waddington Range BC Photo - Jia Condon

ContentsEditorialPresidentrsquos Perspective 4Tucker Talk 4

NewsCMSG Program Update 6Technical Directorrsquos Report 8IFMGA News 10MCR Informalex Committee Report 11Professional Practices Committee Report 11ACMG Partnership Program Update 12Continuing Professional Development Report 14ACMG Scholarship News 15Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted Area 16

Spotlight on ACMG MembersACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding 18New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from Justin Dwyer 20

FeaturesSteep amp Stinky - Skiing in Northern Norway 24Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 28Canadian Climbing Championships 32Guiding Exams and Pregnancy 34Backcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery 36A Brief History of Derriere Crag 38

TechnicalOsprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack Review 40Acrteryx Acrux SL Approach Shoe Review 42Delorme inReach Review 44Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel Review 46

Member UpdatesDiapers and Vows 48Changes in ACMG Membership 49ACMG Officers Directors Advisors Staff and Committees 50

4 5 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

This past winter the unthinkable happened when one of our members lost a client in a tragic avalanche Thatrsquos one of the powerful things about avalanches ndash their effects of-ten extend beyond the runout zones

When an incident such as this occurs many things kick into gear Organiza-tions such as the RCMP the coroner and WorkSafeBC take the investigative lead

to determine cause of death factors leading up to the fatal-ity issues relating to workplace regulations and whether any learning can come from the situation to inform possible future recommendations

Simultaneously the insurance underwriter broker adjust-er and lawyer(s) collaborate to determine whether the possi-bility of a lawsuit exists in which case a file is opened and an

Editorial

With the ACMG now at well over one thousand members the task of managing applications for new membership or rein-statement of former members has become quite a workload for the ACMG staff In the case of new applications we of course warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU) In these cases

applications are relatively easy to process When it comes to reinstatements or people applying greater than one year after completing their exam the process can be more complicated and quite time consuming for the Technical Director (TD) the Technical Committee (TC) and the administration staff

Given our primary mandate the TD and TC have a respon-sibility to ensure that aspirant members are at a current stan-dard prior to being readmitted as active members at any of their previous certification levels This is done by evaluating work history related recreational resume references recom-mendations and the amount of time that has lapsed since the person was last a member The TC then outlines what the applicant must do before being reinstated This can include but is not limited to further references CPDs training with a TRU instructor or repeating part or all of a certification stream The amount of time that the volunteer members of the TC and the paid TD spends on this can add up quickly In other words you as members are currently paying for this

There are a number of reasons why ACMG members decide to drop their membership They can be related to career or lifestyle changes geographic moves or financial constraints I would like to see some changes in our current reinstatement

Presidentrsquos PerspectiveBy Marc Ledwidge

ins to ensure the member is managing the stress providing assistance in working through all the details locating re-sources (including counselling) as needed and generally help-ing to navigate the inevitable maelstrom that follows serious incidents

If the incident stems from an avalanche then the ACMG needs to collaborate with various other associations or com-panies Avalanche Canada is the nexus for all things avalanche in the public realm so they are often the first to be called by media They refer the media to us or to the CAA if there is a professional avalanche worker involved Additionally in this situation we will often collaborate with the CAA and some-times the BLBCA to determine the best support for the worker

If there has been a serious injury or fatality to a client I immediately notify the ACMG insurance broker and adjuster They contact our lawyer and begin the process of determining that our member and therefore the ACMG has been properly covered Here is where the complexities start If the potential for a law suit exists the information gathered by the insurance team becomes closely held in order to reduce the chances of a successful suit Many people and organizations want to know what happened but we are constrained in what we can and should make public in case there is something that would en-courage or assist future litigation against the member

This push-pull is hard on the member who is already somewhat traumatized and difficult to reconcile with those who are interested in learning from the situation We would like to be as transparent about the incident as we can but we canrsquot risk that this might increase the likelihood of a successful

Tucker TalkBy Peter Tucker

process that would motivate members to seriously evaluate the consequences of dropping their membership regardless of the reasons before doing so The reinstatement process also needs to ensure that you as members are no longer pay-ing for a service that we provide to non-members

By the time this goes to print your Board of Directors will have discussed options to completely cost recover these membership reinstatements One of the challenges for the administration staff is to be able to invoice and get paid by applicants requesting reinstatement Since they are not mem-bers we cannot simply charge their account There have been cases where applicants seeking reinstatement have dropped their request presumably after deciding that they did not like requirements set by the TC In some cases the costs incurred by the Association have not been recovered Currently we charge a $100 administrative fee for reinstatements In most cases that fee does not cover the cost of the real work outlined above I will be proposing that anyone requesting reinstate-ment as active members pay a much larger sum up front before the application will be considered The idea is similar to a legal retainer where the amount of time that the TD and TC spends on the file will be billed against that fee Once the reinstate-ment is completed assuming that the amount of time spent on the file is less than the up front fee the applicant would get a refund This is of course exclusive of membership fees In more complicated cases the applicant may also get asked for further funds before the process can continue I hope that these changes will ensure a process that is fair to both you as members and to applicants seeking reinstatement Have a great summer

Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff AB

investigation may be commissioned Although the interests are somewhat different there may also be collaboration with the coroner so that investigations arenrsquot duplicated

So whatrsquos the role of the ACMG in these situations Well the answer is a bit complex and in some cases depends on the actions of others

As Executive Director I have responsibilities toward both the member(s) involved as well as the Association itself These responsibilities includebull Supporting our member(s)bull Liaising with other organizations such as the CAA Avalanche

Canada Heli-Cat Canada Backcountry Lodges of BC etcbull Liaising between the member(s) and our insurance teambull Responding to media calls

Member support usually takes the form of regular check-

suit against our member What I release to everyone especially the media has to be carefully crafted

People have two years from the date of the incident to file a statement of claim if they wish to initiate a law suit After that time the amount of information we can release increases al-lowing us to examine the situation for useful learning

The ACMG has recently struck a quality assurance commit-tee chaired by Mountain Guide Mark Klassen This committee is charged with establishing the procedures we need to follow when an accident occurs In late May ACMG President Marc Ledwidge Technical Director Marc Picheacute and I met with Karl Klassen from Avalanche Canada who is working with the BC Coronerrsquos office on investigation procedures Itrsquos clear that we need to improve all our processes to ensure our protocols are integrated across all the relevant organizations This will reduce duplication and increase clarity around what we all can and should do when disaster strikes

So what about a Conduct Review What if the member may have breached the ACMG Code of Conduct in one or more ways Do we sanction someone who has just gone through a terrible trauma or do we deny our prime mandate of protect-ing the public interest Can we use the information gathered in the investigation or do we need to do another perhaps with a different perspective These are difficult questions which your Board and I will be working to answer in the near future Just know that we will continue to do whatever we can to support any member who finds himherself in such a situation

Peter Tucker is the ACMG Executive Director living in Bragg Creek AB

(It Disappears)Patagoniarsquos Houdinireg

Jacket

It RunsIt RidesIt Climbs

copy 2016 Patagonia Inc

patagoniacomopportunist

PAT_S16_Houdini_ACMGArete_HPindd 1 52716 448 PM

6 7 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide Program Update

By Dwayne Congdon

News

ThanksThe listed individuals and businesses provided operational support for the Ski Guide certificate and the listed climbing facilities generously provided their venue for at least one Climbing Gym Instructor course over the past winter season This support is critical to the successful conduct of Guide Training Skiing courses Ski Guide exams and the Climbing Gym Instructor Program

2016 Ski Guide Exam and Climbing Instructor Pass RatesPass rates are posted below to allow ACMG members to monitor how effectively the CMSG program is preparing candidates to meet ACMG standards

Ski Guide StreamCharlie Locke (Lake Louise Ski Resort)Revelstoke Mountain Resort Sutton Place HotelWhistler Heli-SkiingWhistler Blackcomb Ski ResortSelkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingGreat Canadian Heli-skiingCMH Revelstoke Arrow HelicoptersAlpine HelicoptersCMH AdamantsSilver King Helicopters

Eastern Canada Hiking Guide CourseAs previously reported in the Arete a Hiking Guide course was recently completed (May 24-June 1) at Lake Placid New York The course was intended for guides based in Eastern Canada and included 6 participants The course used terrain in the Ad-irondack Mountains which proved to be ideal for the course objectives The instructors were Helen Sovdat and Bjarne Baek

Prior Learning Assessment and Recognition (PLAR)This spring four Ski Guides and two NOLS instructors used PLAR to obtain a Hiking Guide certificate of equivalency See Changes in ACMG Membership on page 49 for names

Winter Hiking CourseThis optional course is intended for Assistant Hiking Guides and Hiking Guides who wish to guide in winter conditions This two-day course replaces the ACMGrsquos winter travel accredi-tation process The course takes place in Lake Louise December 11 12

Course content will focus onbull Winter hazards (including avoiding avalanche terrain)bull Client care in winter conditions

bull Travel techniques (with snowshoes and traction devices or walking crampons)

bull Winter campingbull Interpretation in the winter environment

Changes to Movement Skills Screening (Skiing and Riding)Any person planning to apply to Guide Training Skiing is wel-come to screen their movement skills prior to applying This is recommended for applicants who are unsure their movement skills are at the screening standard

Starting in 2017 applicants who pass the screening will be allowed to carry their result forward into Guide Training Skiing and will not be required to re-screen

Two screening sessions are scheduled to take place on Jan 20 mdash one at Whistler Blackcomb and one at Kicking Horse Resort Contact the CMSG program office for further details

Dwayne Congdon is an ACMG Mountain Guide and coordinator of the CMSG Program at Thompson Rivers University in Kam-loops BC

Climbing Gym Instructor ProgramElevation Place mdash Canmore ABThe Boulders Climbing Gym mdash Sannichton BCClimb Base5 Climbing Gym mdash Coquitlam BCGround Up Climbing Centre mdash Squamish BCThe Calgary Climbing Centre (Hanger) mdash Calgary ABWilson Climbing Centre University of Alberta mdash EdmontonJunction Climbing Centre mdash London ON

2016 2015 2014Qualification Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate

Apprentice Ski Guidea 27 81 24 87 27 85

Ski Guide 33 82 21 76 36 67

Top Rope Climbing Instructorb 24 100 31 100 16 100

Climbing Gym Instructor 1 46 96 90 96 80 90

Climbing Gym Instructor 2 4 75 4 75 11 100

a One appeal pending and one re-test pendingb One course still pending

Claire Dixon amp Cornelius Brenninkmeyer Award This award is in memory of Claire Dixon and Cornelius Brennink-meyer who died in a snow caving accident in January 2007 Corne-lius was a student in the Ski Guide Certificate

The recipient is chosen by CMSG instructors and presented to a

Guide Training Skiing student who has demonstrated 1 Excellent leadership and people skills 2 Excellent technical skills 3 Superior attention to safety during guide training

The 2016 award recipient is Christine Feleki

8 9 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

Via FerrataUnder the leadership of ACMG Mountain Guide James Blench the Technical Commit-tee has been working on a draft proposal for our Via Ferrata training program It is cur-rently being reviewed by stakeholders and will be communicated to the membership once we have a better understanding of how

the process will workThe training program and certification will be strictly for

the low risk high ratio Via Ferrata installations with a very high level of operational risk management and oversight Initially it will likely only be available to existing ACMG members in the Top Rope Climbing Instructor Ski Guide and Hiking Guide streams and eventually we will build a stand alone course that will better serve operators in East-ern Canada and other areas where there is a low density of existing ACMG members

ManualsThe Climbing Gym Instructor manual was more or less com-pleted this winter and has been used on CGI courses this spring with positive feedback so far ACMG Webmaster Chris Miller is still working on the final touches for incorporating the instruc-tional videos and we hope to have the completed version soon as an EPUB document available on iBooks and other retailers soon

Creating this manual laid the foundation for how we can proceed with the technical manual for the Mountain Guide stream I have dedicated significant time to the Technical Manual project for this summer

Canadian Avalanche Association Terrain Competency CommitteeI continue to be involved in this committee however progress has been very slow over the winter with a few conference calls and some email threads Although a bit slower than everyone hoped I believe the direction will prove to be positive for all avalanche professionals in Canada

The ACMGrsquos continued role as a stakeholder in this dis-cussion is important as the outcome will affect the respon-sibilities of all CAA professional members

Apprentice Guide TimelinesWe continue to work on educating members about the Appren-tice Guide timelines at various stages of their careers It seems that over time people are generally becoming more understand-ing of the details of this policy and the reasons behind it

Technical Directorrsquos ReportBy Marc Picheacute

We have had a handful of applications for extensions over the course of the winter but only one new one was ap-proved The applications that were rejected were based on poor time and career management although challenging this is specifically what this policy is attempting to manage

At the end of the 2016 Ski Guide exam season there were three members who missed the timeline and will loose their status as ACMG Apprentice Ski Guides They will be able to reapply for membership but will be required to do some upgrading prior to be accepted and will be given a date by which time they will have to challenge the Ski Guide exam

If you passed an Apprentice exam in 2013 and have not yet completed the final certificate exam in that stream (or the Apprentice Alpine exam for Apprentice Rock Guides wishing to become Alpine Guides) this is your year

ACMGrsquos Role in Accidents and IncidentsIt is becoming increasingly evident that the ACMG must de-termine and define what its roles responsibilities and goals are with regards to accidents and incidents This is a very complex subject that is influenced by legal and cultural issues as well as the various other agencies and stakeholders involved Over the winter Executive Director Peter Tucker and myself have been involved in numerous phone calls and email threads with the Canadian Avalanche Association Backcountry Lodges of British Columbia Avalanche Canada and HeliCat Canada in an effort to answer the many questions we are all facing

The ACMG has had an Accident Committee working on aspects of this subject and we will be looking at how to in-corporate their findings while meeting ACMG goals More to comehellip

Arcrsquoteryx Mountain Conditions Report (MCR) AppThe MCR website and IOS mobile phone app were launched to the public mid-March and have been generally well received Arcrsquoteryx is in the process of working on version 2 which will include several upgrades with a focus on more filters both while viewing reports on the map and in list mode

Arcrsquoteryx has not yet promoted the MCR in their own social media campaign and plans to do so at some point during the summer This will greatly increase visits to the site however so far the level of interest has been quite high given that our only promotion has been through ACMG channels

As of the end of May the website has seen over 54000 page views by nearly 11000 users So far the app has been downloaded nearly 700 times with the majority being in

Canada and a smattering around the globe including Chi-na Japan and the UK

We are currently working with Arcrsquoteryx to help them move towards including other guides associations includ-ing the American Mountain Guides Association and several interested countries in Europe

VariancesThe Technical Committee has approved two variances for the coming summer They are for the Mount Norquay Via Ferrata and Yamnuskas Cadet Camp Glacier Program They can be viewed in more detail on the ACMG website There is a third variance currently being reviewed by the committee but due to the late application date it will not be complete by the begin-ning of the summer season

Russian Mountain Guides AssociationThis year we ran our second Ski Guide exam in the Mount El-brus area with the pass rates being similar to that of the Ca-

nadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program Students are quickly learning what level of dedication and training is necessary to be successful in this program

This year we also had our first observation from the IF-MGA Unfortunately the exam was being held during the IFMGA meetings so they were only able to observe on a training course This was an important next step for us in terms of determining the required work before Russia can be admitted into the IFMGA as a candidate country

Another significant step forward taken this year was that it was the first time we used a Russian instructor on a training course This was an important first step towards the Russian Mountain Guides Association becoming more independent in the future

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

View of the Caucasus Mountains from 4000m on Mt Elbrus during the RMGA Ski Guide Exam - Photo Marc Picheacute

10 11 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

I attended the IFMGA meetings in Sicily Italy in early May Technical Director Marc Picheacute was unable to be there as he was still committed in Russia To quote him ldquothe President had to attend without his security detailrdquo Over the past year the biggest issues facing the IFMGA have been the election of a new President and the move towards a double majority on voting

Incumbents Hanno Doenz from Austria and Christian Trommsdorff from France were both running for President Christian won the election He has been actively involved on the board is a dual national of France and Germany and is fluent in French German and English His platform was to commit to a mandate of inclusiveness with all of the IFMGA countries

The double majority vote was interesting In the current system each of the 23 member countries gets one vote for every 100 IFMGA Mountain Guides Canada gets two votes as we have between 100 and 200 Mountain Guides France Austria and Switzerland with well over 1000 Mountain Guides each get 12 to 13 votes There are currently a total of 71 votes This means that in the past countries like Canada the USA or New Zealand with only one or two votes would have little to no influence especially if the western European countries colluded on an issue Last fall the Swiss Guides Association

President Pierre Mathey put forward a motion that would require a double majority on voting on all issues This would mean that each country would retain its current number of votes but that a majority of member countries would also be required for motions to pass In other words a country like Canada would more or less have an equal voice to a country like Switzerland This is a big step and indicative of the com-mitment of the IFMGA towards inclusiveness The vote was almost unanimous with Spain surprisingly voting against this change (they currently have one vote) It was very encour-aging to see countries like France Switzerland Austria and Germany that hold the majority of votes support this motion

Other recent positive changes include the addition of two directors outside of the founding countries in mainland western Europe The board now includes a director from the UK (Mark Diggins) and one from Sweden (Mike Wright) Inci-dentally a double majority is what the ACMG is considering as a possible solution to the inequalities on voting for bylaw changes Currently only Mountain Guides can vote on these If a double majority was adopted all members could vote and a majority of all members plus a majority of Mountain Guides would be required More info on the IFMGA can be found at httpwwwivbvinfoenhomehtml

Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff AB

certainly be criticized for being ldquoRockies-centricrdquo In the future we would like to try again to organize MCR summaries for the Coast range and possibly a summary specific to the Interior ranges If anyone has any interest in being involved in either of those projects please get in touch with the MCR Informalex committee comm_mcracmgca

Finally thanks to the MCR Informalex committee for their work and especially Tom Wolfe for making the original email system work so smoothly all these years There are no changes planned to the current guidersquos Informalex

Larry Stanier an ACMG Mountain Guide and the MCR Infor-malex Committee Chair lives in Canmore AB

The big news in this little department is the new Mountain Conditions Report website If you havenrsquot done so (shame on you -) check it out at wwwmountainconditionscom Follow the instructions to sign up and start adding reports

I would really like to thank John Houss-er Kyle Goertzen James Bronson Jurgen

Watts and Raluca Axente from Arcrsquoteryx They have all been great to work with and have made the transition surprisingly smooth Our Technical Director Marc Picheacute did most of the initial work from the ACMGrsquos end and now it is being admin-istered by the ACMG Admin Assistant Elaine Powers I mostly just tried to stay out of their way

The MCR summaries for the Rockies and Columbia Moun-tains will continue to fill in the gap between the end and start of the Public Avalanche forecasting season These summaries can

IFMGA NewsBy Marc Ledwidge

BlackDiamondEquipmentcom

The Sharp End Shell Constructed with lightweight and durable GORE-TEXreg Pro for waterproof breathable protection

MCR Informalex Committee ReportBy Larry Stanier

Professional Practices Committee ReportBy Nathan Dahl

maintaining or enhancing the currency of onersquos knowledge in a specific area of practice The required technical skills are unique to onersquos practice and can only be adequately determined by the individual If you are uncertain whether or not a course meets the ACMG CPD requirements for your membership stream consult the Continuing Professional Development document on the ACMG member website under Governance gt CPD or send me an e-mail and we can discuss if it seems appropriate

By the time you are reading this the committee will have delivered the next round of audits to another 20 members and will be in the process of reviewing their files If you have any questions or comments about the audit process dont hesitate to get in touch with me at pro-practicesacmgca

Nathan Dahl Chair of the Professional Practices Committee is an ACMG Hiking Guide from Calgary AB

This past fall the Professional Practices Committee delivered its second audit to another 20 randomly selected members As before the selected members were asked to submit records of their professional practice and continuing professional development (CPD) for the past two years as well as a copy of their current First Aid certificate

Each file was then reviewed by two members of the Pro-fessional Practices Committee If all conditions of membership were met the member received an Unconditional Pass If one or more of the conditions of membership were not met the member received a Provisional Pass

Of the 20 members who were selected for the audit 17 passed without conditions and 3 received provisional passes As the intent of the committee is educational and corrective rather than punitive at this point no one has been asked to go inactive or resign

There are several reasons that one might not pass an au-dit Failure to provide a valid First Aid Certificate insufficient professional development insufficient professional practice or sufficient but inappropriate professional practice or professional development are all valid grounds for not passing There is also some confusion as to what can count towards CPD hours While some training is relatively straightforward (ACMG refreshers CMSG training programs Avalanche Canada courses Interpre-tive Guides Association courses) there is no single method for

12 13 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Partnership Program UpdateBy Ken Beacutelanger

News

The ACMG and its members are power-ful centres of influence in the international outdoor recreation world particularly in the winter arena The ACMG Partnership Program seeks to leverage this influence by creating partnerships with leading suppliers These partnerships involve cash products co-branding and cross-marketing to help

the ACMG reach its mandate of Protecting the Public Interest in Mountain Travel

PARTNERSHIPSPlease welcome the newest ACMG Partners

Osprey Packs Canada The best packs in the business is now a Proud Partner of the ACMG Check out their fantastic new Pro Purchase pricing for ACMG members The same company distributes Exped in Canada so there is a great new Pro Purchase there as well

adidas Sport Eyewearadidas prides itself on the highest quality optics They are

thrilled to be an ACMG Proud Partner and will sponsor the ACMG Board of Directors with eyewear Pro Purchase infor-mation is posted on the member website

G3 ndash Genuine Guide Gear G3 has increased their level of partnership support to Logan our highest category Theyrsquove committed to a fourth year of the G3 Early Bird ACMG Giveback Program watch for details this fall

Arcrsquoteryx Our 1 Partner continues to shine Together wersquove created a new Equipment Award Two ACMG recipients each year will receive $2000 in Arcrsquoteryx equipment Application details are on the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Arcrsquoteryx has generously donated 100 ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jackets to our association We have every size available except medium in both menrsquos and womenrsquos You can pur-chase one at any upcoming ACMG event (CPDs AGM etc) for only $150

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jacket

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG technical cap

The ACMG technical cap is here The Escapa hat from Arcrsquoteryx is a technical trucker hat con-structed of breathable nylon fabric with a stretch mesh back The laminated brim is pliable so it can be rolled or folded easily The reflective Arcrsquoteryx logo is offset by the stylish silk screened ACMG logo on the opposite side

Retail price on this hat is $50 + $8 silk screening + tax but thanks to our fantastic Logan ACMG Partnership with Arcrsquoteryx wersquore able to offer this for only $30 to ACMG members

Available in Nautic Grey in two sizes S-M (55-57cm) amp L-XL (58-60cm) Arcrsquoteryx hat sizing chart

Limited quantities and only available for purchase at ACMG events such as CPDs and the Annual General Meeting

inReach Canada inReach became an ACMG Columbia Partner at the beginning of the year When in the remote backcountry donrsquot just send an OK message use your device to send texts get weather forecasts and more ACMG members receive discounted pricing on com-munication plans

IntuitionRemember ACMG guests qualify for 15 off any Intuition Liner on their website using the special ACMG15 discount code Give them a call in Vancouver if you have any fitting questions ndash they

love ACMG members and guests and are always happy to help

Dynafit Dynafit is the newest ACMG Columbia Partner Our partner-ship will improve the communication between ACMG members and Dynafit North America as well as streamline the Pro Pur-chase program

EVENTS

2016 Banff Mountain Film amp Book FestivalThe ACMG will continue its sponsorship of the Best Guidebook award The ex-posure we received from our 2015 participation was sig-nificant We had a new high-profile booth location in the lobby area of the Eric Harvie (main) theatre Our logo and support was displayed at the Festival Tour in thousands of locations around North America

Arcrsquoteryx Climbing AcademyThe ACMG will have a booth and presence at the Arcrsquoteryx Climbing Academy in Squamish BC July 14-17 2016

We have many events planned for 2016 Wersquore always happy for help at any of them and Irsquoll make sure you get some swag for your efforts If you can help out please drop me a line at partnershipacmgca

I look forward to seeing you at this yearrsquos Annual General Meeting in Canmore October 15-16 All our Partners are in-vited to the Partner Expo Come check out the newest prod-ucts network directly with brands and attend custom clinics for ACMG members

The ACMGrsquos current list of Partners can be found here and on the back cover of this issue of The Arecircte

Please support our Partners as they support the ACMG

ACMG exhibitor booth Photo - Ken Beacutelanger

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

14 15 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Continuing Professional Development ReportBy Alison Dakin

News

Hello fellow members A big thumbs up for the excellent participation of our members in the various CPD workshops and presenta-tions of the past year During the 2015 CPD events in Squamish Canmore and Revelstoke almost all of the sessions had solid turnouts with many of the workshops being sold out

The big news for 2016 CPDs is the ex-pansion of the program to 3 days per event

with 3 different locales used Each year there will be a coastal interior and a Rockies event The goal is to provide opportunities for everyone to participate by rotating the season in which the events are scheduled in each area

During each 3 day event technical field courses will be bal-anced with soft skill workshops case histories and informational presentations will be linked to the popular ldquosocialrdquo event Atten-tion will be given to utilize the regionrsquos best attributes for access to rock snow ice climbing gyms flora and fauna and locally based instructors

In addition to the 3-day events we will also continue to hold several one-off sessions in different places These will include workshops for climbing gym instructors in some of our bigger city centres where these members often reside They will also in-

clude technical courses such as the ever popular ski coaching by Dave Honeyman (currently being offered in Banff Golden and Revelstoke)

One of the biggest challenges is to offer a variety of courses and workshops that are of interest and benefit for all disciplines within the ACMG membership From our recent member sur-vey we received some great feedback for new courses as well as some requests to re-do the better ones from the past If you have other suggestions for a CPD topic please let us know If you have contacts for the right skilled person to offer a workshop or presentation that is even better and can allow us to get right to the source Maybe that person is yourself (most excellent) or another member (also excellent) or perhaps you know a profes-sional from another realm who has skills and information to offer and share with our members It is this type of networking that brings the best from within our association as well as access to quality new people and ideas

Please contact me with any feedback about the CPD pro-cess at cpdacmgca Have a safe fun and rewarding summer

Alison Dakin an ACMG Ski amp Hiking Guide and the Continuing Professional Development Coordinator lives in Golden BC

ACMG Scholarship NewsBy Derek Wilding

Arcteryx Equipment Award The generous folks at Arcrsquoteryx have come through again in the form of a new award for apprentice members in the mountain stream The new Arcteryx Equipment Award will be distributed in the form of two $2000 equipment credits with Arcteryx to use towards their gear

Recipients will be selected based on the following criteria so be sure your application specifically highlights yourbull Commitment to professionalism and safety in the mountainsbull Drive to constantly push personal boundaries through adventures

activities andor in daily lifebull Ability to inspire friends and community to be active in mountain

sportsbull Stewardship of the environment

Arcrsquoteryx Product Development Training FundArcrsquoteryx has also graciously created a training award directed specifically at Apprentice Ski Guides who are in the process of pursuing certification The award will cover 3 days of training with a current CMSG instructor for 2 members and will also provide Arcrsquoteryx with an opportunity to connect with and gain valuable product feedback from the recipients

Digital application forms for the Arcrsquoteryx Equipment Award and Product Development Training Fund can be found in the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund Created by ACMG member Olivia Sofer in memory of her late husband Robson Gmoser this fund is intended to assist aspiring guides and instructors to obtain the mentorship that will help them succeed in their quest for certification Robson was a strong proponent of the value of mentorship in helping to develop the skills and behaviours of aspiring guides He believed that the re-lationship formed between mentor and student was absolutely the key to success

Eligibilitybull People who are currently enrolled in any part of Thompson Rivers

Universityrsquos Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (moun-tain hiking or climbing instructor programs) ndash they do not need to be ACMG members yet

bull ACMG members who are working toward progressing their cer-tification level

Selection Criteriabull Strength of applicationbull Strength of reference

Awardbull People who have engaged in a practicum opportunity may ap-

ply for reimbursement of funds to offset the mentorrsquos expenses in bringing the applicant along on the trip ndash funds are then sent to the mentor

bull People who are looking to improve their skill sets in order to progress in their certification levels may apply for funds to pay an individual instructor coach or trainer for specific trainingApplications can be found in the members section of the

ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Gmoser Mentorship Fund

There is no deadline for this application as they can be made any time of year

ACMG ScholarshipsIn addition applications for many other financial awards and funded training can be found on the member website including thebull Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for Apprentice

Guides)bull DrsquoArcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course

subsidy)bull Arcrsquoteryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies of $500 $1000

and $1500)bull Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies)

Continued on page 45

Left to right ACMG members Helen Sovdat Walter Bruns and Jasmin Caton at the 2014 Squamish rock CPD Photo - Jorg WIlz

16 17 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

THANK YOUFOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH

COMMUNITY AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY

AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS

7378 routes planned 8125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented16750 observations submitted WWWAVATECHCOM

Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted AreaBy Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass to teach the field day of an AST 1 course My group carpooled in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 15 hours while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal Canadian Army using the Howitzers

In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye-sight of the vehicles What I did not realize is that by mak-ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA) This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high-way and then wondered where we had gone

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per-mit in my truck in Revelstoke

I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and note the following bull Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highwaybull It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park

Permit while working in the National Parks bull The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a

court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine)

I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava-lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for my misconduct

Sabina Wodak an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Revelstoke BC

PROGENUINEGUIDEGEARCOM

STEPOUTSIDE

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW

EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration G3rsquos exclusive ACMG

Early Bird Pro Deal will be back this September

18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

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thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

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40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 3: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

4 5 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

This past winter the unthinkable happened when one of our members lost a client in a tragic avalanche Thatrsquos one of the powerful things about avalanches ndash their effects of-ten extend beyond the runout zones

When an incident such as this occurs many things kick into gear Organiza-tions such as the RCMP the coroner and WorkSafeBC take the investigative lead

to determine cause of death factors leading up to the fatal-ity issues relating to workplace regulations and whether any learning can come from the situation to inform possible future recommendations

Simultaneously the insurance underwriter broker adjust-er and lawyer(s) collaborate to determine whether the possi-bility of a lawsuit exists in which case a file is opened and an

Editorial

With the ACMG now at well over one thousand members the task of managing applications for new membership or rein-statement of former members has become quite a workload for the ACMG staff In the case of new applications we of course warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU) In these cases

applications are relatively easy to process When it comes to reinstatements or people applying greater than one year after completing their exam the process can be more complicated and quite time consuming for the Technical Director (TD) the Technical Committee (TC) and the administration staff

Given our primary mandate the TD and TC have a respon-sibility to ensure that aspirant members are at a current stan-dard prior to being readmitted as active members at any of their previous certification levels This is done by evaluating work history related recreational resume references recom-mendations and the amount of time that has lapsed since the person was last a member The TC then outlines what the applicant must do before being reinstated This can include but is not limited to further references CPDs training with a TRU instructor or repeating part or all of a certification stream The amount of time that the volunteer members of the TC and the paid TD spends on this can add up quickly In other words you as members are currently paying for this

There are a number of reasons why ACMG members decide to drop their membership They can be related to career or lifestyle changes geographic moves or financial constraints I would like to see some changes in our current reinstatement

Presidentrsquos PerspectiveBy Marc Ledwidge

ins to ensure the member is managing the stress providing assistance in working through all the details locating re-sources (including counselling) as needed and generally help-ing to navigate the inevitable maelstrom that follows serious incidents

If the incident stems from an avalanche then the ACMG needs to collaborate with various other associations or com-panies Avalanche Canada is the nexus for all things avalanche in the public realm so they are often the first to be called by media They refer the media to us or to the CAA if there is a professional avalanche worker involved Additionally in this situation we will often collaborate with the CAA and some-times the BLBCA to determine the best support for the worker

If there has been a serious injury or fatality to a client I immediately notify the ACMG insurance broker and adjuster They contact our lawyer and begin the process of determining that our member and therefore the ACMG has been properly covered Here is where the complexities start If the potential for a law suit exists the information gathered by the insurance team becomes closely held in order to reduce the chances of a successful suit Many people and organizations want to know what happened but we are constrained in what we can and should make public in case there is something that would en-courage or assist future litigation against the member

This push-pull is hard on the member who is already somewhat traumatized and difficult to reconcile with those who are interested in learning from the situation We would like to be as transparent about the incident as we can but we canrsquot risk that this might increase the likelihood of a successful

Tucker TalkBy Peter Tucker

process that would motivate members to seriously evaluate the consequences of dropping their membership regardless of the reasons before doing so The reinstatement process also needs to ensure that you as members are no longer pay-ing for a service that we provide to non-members

By the time this goes to print your Board of Directors will have discussed options to completely cost recover these membership reinstatements One of the challenges for the administration staff is to be able to invoice and get paid by applicants requesting reinstatement Since they are not mem-bers we cannot simply charge their account There have been cases where applicants seeking reinstatement have dropped their request presumably after deciding that they did not like requirements set by the TC In some cases the costs incurred by the Association have not been recovered Currently we charge a $100 administrative fee for reinstatements In most cases that fee does not cover the cost of the real work outlined above I will be proposing that anyone requesting reinstate-ment as active members pay a much larger sum up front before the application will be considered The idea is similar to a legal retainer where the amount of time that the TD and TC spends on the file will be billed against that fee Once the reinstate-ment is completed assuming that the amount of time spent on the file is less than the up front fee the applicant would get a refund This is of course exclusive of membership fees In more complicated cases the applicant may also get asked for further funds before the process can continue I hope that these changes will ensure a process that is fair to both you as members and to applicants seeking reinstatement Have a great summer

Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff AB

investigation may be commissioned Although the interests are somewhat different there may also be collaboration with the coroner so that investigations arenrsquot duplicated

So whatrsquos the role of the ACMG in these situations Well the answer is a bit complex and in some cases depends on the actions of others

As Executive Director I have responsibilities toward both the member(s) involved as well as the Association itself These responsibilities includebull Supporting our member(s)bull Liaising with other organizations such as the CAA Avalanche

Canada Heli-Cat Canada Backcountry Lodges of BC etcbull Liaising between the member(s) and our insurance teambull Responding to media calls

Member support usually takes the form of regular check-

suit against our member What I release to everyone especially the media has to be carefully crafted

People have two years from the date of the incident to file a statement of claim if they wish to initiate a law suit After that time the amount of information we can release increases al-lowing us to examine the situation for useful learning

The ACMG has recently struck a quality assurance commit-tee chaired by Mountain Guide Mark Klassen This committee is charged with establishing the procedures we need to follow when an accident occurs In late May ACMG President Marc Ledwidge Technical Director Marc Picheacute and I met with Karl Klassen from Avalanche Canada who is working with the BC Coronerrsquos office on investigation procedures Itrsquos clear that we need to improve all our processes to ensure our protocols are integrated across all the relevant organizations This will reduce duplication and increase clarity around what we all can and should do when disaster strikes

So what about a Conduct Review What if the member may have breached the ACMG Code of Conduct in one or more ways Do we sanction someone who has just gone through a terrible trauma or do we deny our prime mandate of protect-ing the public interest Can we use the information gathered in the investigation or do we need to do another perhaps with a different perspective These are difficult questions which your Board and I will be working to answer in the near future Just know that we will continue to do whatever we can to support any member who finds himherself in such a situation

Peter Tucker is the ACMG Executive Director living in Bragg Creek AB

(It Disappears)Patagoniarsquos Houdinireg

Jacket

It RunsIt RidesIt Climbs

copy 2016 Patagonia Inc

patagoniacomopportunist

PAT_S16_Houdini_ACMGArete_HPindd 1 52716 448 PM

6 7 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide Program Update

By Dwayne Congdon

News

ThanksThe listed individuals and businesses provided operational support for the Ski Guide certificate and the listed climbing facilities generously provided their venue for at least one Climbing Gym Instructor course over the past winter season This support is critical to the successful conduct of Guide Training Skiing courses Ski Guide exams and the Climbing Gym Instructor Program

2016 Ski Guide Exam and Climbing Instructor Pass RatesPass rates are posted below to allow ACMG members to monitor how effectively the CMSG program is preparing candidates to meet ACMG standards

Ski Guide StreamCharlie Locke (Lake Louise Ski Resort)Revelstoke Mountain Resort Sutton Place HotelWhistler Heli-SkiingWhistler Blackcomb Ski ResortSelkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingGreat Canadian Heli-skiingCMH Revelstoke Arrow HelicoptersAlpine HelicoptersCMH AdamantsSilver King Helicopters

Eastern Canada Hiking Guide CourseAs previously reported in the Arete a Hiking Guide course was recently completed (May 24-June 1) at Lake Placid New York The course was intended for guides based in Eastern Canada and included 6 participants The course used terrain in the Ad-irondack Mountains which proved to be ideal for the course objectives The instructors were Helen Sovdat and Bjarne Baek

Prior Learning Assessment and Recognition (PLAR)This spring four Ski Guides and two NOLS instructors used PLAR to obtain a Hiking Guide certificate of equivalency See Changes in ACMG Membership on page 49 for names

Winter Hiking CourseThis optional course is intended for Assistant Hiking Guides and Hiking Guides who wish to guide in winter conditions This two-day course replaces the ACMGrsquos winter travel accredi-tation process The course takes place in Lake Louise December 11 12

Course content will focus onbull Winter hazards (including avoiding avalanche terrain)bull Client care in winter conditions

bull Travel techniques (with snowshoes and traction devices or walking crampons)

bull Winter campingbull Interpretation in the winter environment

Changes to Movement Skills Screening (Skiing and Riding)Any person planning to apply to Guide Training Skiing is wel-come to screen their movement skills prior to applying This is recommended for applicants who are unsure their movement skills are at the screening standard

Starting in 2017 applicants who pass the screening will be allowed to carry their result forward into Guide Training Skiing and will not be required to re-screen

Two screening sessions are scheduled to take place on Jan 20 mdash one at Whistler Blackcomb and one at Kicking Horse Resort Contact the CMSG program office for further details

Dwayne Congdon is an ACMG Mountain Guide and coordinator of the CMSG Program at Thompson Rivers University in Kam-loops BC

Climbing Gym Instructor ProgramElevation Place mdash Canmore ABThe Boulders Climbing Gym mdash Sannichton BCClimb Base5 Climbing Gym mdash Coquitlam BCGround Up Climbing Centre mdash Squamish BCThe Calgary Climbing Centre (Hanger) mdash Calgary ABWilson Climbing Centre University of Alberta mdash EdmontonJunction Climbing Centre mdash London ON

2016 2015 2014Qualification Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate

Apprentice Ski Guidea 27 81 24 87 27 85

Ski Guide 33 82 21 76 36 67

Top Rope Climbing Instructorb 24 100 31 100 16 100

Climbing Gym Instructor 1 46 96 90 96 80 90

Climbing Gym Instructor 2 4 75 4 75 11 100

a One appeal pending and one re-test pendingb One course still pending

Claire Dixon amp Cornelius Brenninkmeyer Award This award is in memory of Claire Dixon and Cornelius Brennink-meyer who died in a snow caving accident in January 2007 Corne-lius was a student in the Ski Guide Certificate

The recipient is chosen by CMSG instructors and presented to a

Guide Training Skiing student who has demonstrated 1 Excellent leadership and people skills 2 Excellent technical skills 3 Superior attention to safety during guide training

The 2016 award recipient is Christine Feleki

8 9 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

Via FerrataUnder the leadership of ACMG Mountain Guide James Blench the Technical Commit-tee has been working on a draft proposal for our Via Ferrata training program It is cur-rently being reviewed by stakeholders and will be communicated to the membership once we have a better understanding of how

the process will workThe training program and certification will be strictly for

the low risk high ratio Via Ferrata installations with a very high level of operational risk management and oversight Initially it will likely only be available to existing ACMG members in the Top Rope Climbing Instructor Ski Guide and Hiking Guide streams and eventually we will build a stand alone course that will better serve operators in East-ern Canada and other areas where there is a low density of existing ACMG members

ManualsThe Climbing Gym Instructor manual was more or less com-pleted this winter and has been used on CGI courses this spring with positive feedback so far ACMG Webmaster Chris Miller is still working on the final touches for incorporating the instruc-tional videos and we hope to have the completed version soon as an EPUB document available on iBooks and other retailers soon

Creating this manual laid the foundation for how we can proceed with the technical manual for the Mountain Guide stream I have dedicated significant time to the Technical Manual project for this summer

Canadian Avalanche Association Terrain Competency CommitteeI continue to be involved in this committee however progress has been very slow over the winter with a few conference calls and some email threads Although a bit slower than everyone hoped I believe the direction will prove to be positive for all avalanche professionals in Canada

The ACMGrsquos continued role as a stakeholder in this dis-cussion is important as the outcome will affect the respon-sibilities of all CAA professional members

Apprentice Guide TimelinesWe continue to work on educating members about the Appren-tice Guide timelines at various stages of their careers It seems that over time people are generally becoming more understand-ing of the details of this policy and the reasons behind it

Technical Directorrsquos ReportBy Marc Picheacute

We have had a handful of applications for extensions over the course of the winter but only one new one was ap-proved The applications that were rejected were based on poor time and career management although challenging this is specifically what this policy is attempting to manage

At the end of the 2016 Ski Guide exam season there were three members who missed the timeline and will loose their status as ACMG Apprentice Ski Guides They will be able to reapply for membership but will be required to do some upgrading prior to be accepted and will be given a date by which time they will have to challenge the Ski Guide exam

If you passed an Apprentice exam in 2013 and have not yet completed the final certificate exam in that stream (or the Apprentice Alpine exam for Apprentice Rock Guides wishing to become Alpine Guides) this is your year

ACMGrsquos Role in Accidents and IncidentsIt is becoming increasingly evident that the ACMG must de-termine and define what its roles responsibilities and goals are with regards to accidents and incidents This is a very complex subject that is influenced by legal and cultural issues as well as the various other agencies and stakeholders involved Over the winter Executive Director Peter Tucker and myself have been involved in numerous phone calls and email threads with the Canadian Avalanche Association Backcountry Lodges of British Columbia Avalanche Canada and HeliCat Canada in an effort to answer the many questions we are all facing

The ACMG has had an Accident Committee working on aspects of this subject and we will be looking at how to in-corporate their findings while meeting ACMG goals More to comehellip

Arcrsquoteryx Mountain Conditions Report (MCR) AppThe MCR website and IOS mobile phone app were launched to the public mid-March and have been generally well received Arcrsquoteryx is in the process of working on version 2 which will include several upgrades with a focus on more filters both while viewing reports on the map and in list mode

Arcrsquoteryx has not yet promoted the MCR in their own social media campaign and plans to do so at some point during the summer This will greatly increase visits to the site however so far the level of interest has been quite high given that our only promotion has been through ACMG channels

As of the end of May the website has seen over 54000 page views by nearly 11000 users So far the app has been downloaded nearly 700 times with the majority being in

Canada and a smattering around the globe including Chi-na Japan and the UK

We are currently working with Arcrsquoteryx to help them move towards including other guides associations includ-ing the American Mountain Guides Association and several interested countries in Europe

VariancesThe Technical Committee has approved two variances for the coming summer They are for the Mount Norquay Via Ferrata and Yamnuskas Cadet Camp Glacier Program They can be viewed in more detail on the ACMG website There is a third variance currently being reviewed by the committee but due to the late application date it will not be complete by the begin-ning of the summer season

Russian Mountain Guides AssociationThis year we ran our second Ski Guide exam in the Mount El-brus area with the pass rates being similar to that of the Ca-

nadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program Students are quickly learning what level of dedication and training is necessary to be successful in this program

This year we also had our first observation from the IF-MGA Unfortunately the exam was being held during the IFMGA meetings so they were only able to observe on a training course This was an important next step for us in terms of determining the required work before Russia can be admitted into the IFMGA as a candidate country

Another significant step forward taken this year was that it was the first time we used a Russian instructor on a training course This was an important first step towards the Russian Mountain Guides Association becoming more independent in the future

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

View of the Caucasus Mountains from 4000m on Mt Elbrus during the RMGA Ski Guide Exam - Photo Marc Picheacute

10 11 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

I attended the IFMGA meetings in Sicily Italy in early May Technical Director Marc Picheacute was unable to be there as he was still committed in Russia To quote him ldquothe President had to attend without his security detailrdquo Over the past year the biggest issues facing the IFMGA have been the election of a new President and the move towards a double majority on voting

Incumbents Hanno Doenz from Austria and Christian Trommsdorff from France were both running for President Christian won the election He has been actively involved on the board is a dual national of France and Germany and is fluent in French German and English His platform was to commit to a mandate of inclusiveness with all of the IFMGA countries

The double majority vote was interesting In the current system each of the 23 member countries gets one vote for every 100 IFMGA Mountain Guides Canada gets two votes as we have between 100 and 200 Mountain Guides France Austria and Switzerland with well over 1000 Mountain Guides each get 12 to 13 votes There are currently a total of 71 votes This means that in the past countries like Canada the USA or New Zealand with only one or two votes would have little to no influence especially if the western European countries colluded on an issue Last fall the Swiss Guides Association

President Pierre Mathey put forward a motion that would require a double majority on voting on all issues This would mean that each country would retain its current number of votes but that a majority of member countries would also be required for motions to pass In other words a country like Canada would more or less have an equal voice to a country like Switzerland This is a big step and indicative of the com-mitment of the IFMGA towards inclusiveness The vote was almost unanimous with Spain surprisingly voting against this change (they currently have one vote) It was very encour-aging to see countries like France Switzerland Austria and Germany that hold the majority of votes support this motion

Other recent positive changes include the addition of two directors outside of the founding countries in mainland western Europe The board now includes a director from the UK (Mark Diggins) and one from Sweden (Mike Wright) Inci-dentally a double majority is what the ACMG is considering as a possible solution to the inequalities on voting for bylaw changes Currently only Mountain Guides can vote on these If a double majority was adopted all members could vote and a majority of all members plus a majority of Mountain Guides would be required More info on the IFMGA can be found at httpwwwivbvinfoenhomehtml

Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff AB

certainly be criticized for being ldquoRockies-centricrdquo In the future we would like to try again to organize MCR summaries for the Coast range and possibly a summary specific to the Interior ranges If anyone has any interest in being involved in either of those projects please get in touch with the MCR Informalex committee comm_mcracmgca

Finally thanks to the MCR Informalex committee for their work and especially Tom Wolfe for making the original email system work so smoothly all these years There are no changes planned to the current guidersquos Informalex

Larry Stanier an ACMG Mountain Guide and the MCR Infor-malex Committee Chair lives in Canmore AB

The big news in this little department is the new Mountain Conditions Report website If you havenrsquot done so (shame on you -) check it out at wwwmountainconditionscom Follow the instructions to sign up and start adding reports

I would really like to thank John Houss-er Kyle Goertzen James Bronson Jurgen

Watts and Raluca Axente from Arcrsquoteryx They have all been great to work with and have made the transition surprisingly smooth Our Technical Director Marc Picheacute did most of the initial work from the ACMGrsquos end and now it is being admin-istered by the ACMG Admin Assistant Elaine Powers I mostly just tried to stay out of their way

The MCR summaries for the Rockies and Columbia Moun-tains will continue to fill in the gap between the end and start of the Public Avalanche forecasting season These summaries can

IFMGA NewsBy Marc Ledwidge

BlackDiamondEquipmentcom

The Sharp End Shell Constructed with lightweight and durable GORE-TEXreg Pro for waterproof breathable protection

MCR Informalex Committee ReportBy Larry Stanier

Professional Practices Committee ReportBy Nathan Dahl

maintaining or enhancing the currency of onersquos knowledge in a specific area of practice The required technical skills are unique to onersquos practice and can only be adequately determined by the individual If you are uncertain whether or not a course meets the ACMG CPD requirements for your membership stream consult the Continuing Professional Development document on the ACMG member website under Governance gt CPD or send me an e-mail and we can discuss if it seems appropriate

By the time you are reading this the committee will have delivered the next round of audits to another 20 members and will be in the process of reviewing their files If you have any questions or comments about the audit process dont hesitate to get in touch with me at pro-practicesacmgca

Nathan Dahl Chair of the Professional Practices Committee is an ACMG Hiking Guide from Calgary AB

This past fall the Professional Practices Committee delivered its second audit to another 20 randomly selected members As before the selected members were asked to submit records of their professional practice and continuing professional development (CPD) for the past two years as well as a copy of their current First Aid certificate

Each file was then reviewed by two members of the Pro-fessional Practices Committee If all conditions of membership were met the member received an Unconditional Pass If one or more of the conditions of membership were not met the member received a Provisional Pass

Of the 20 members who were selected for the audit 17 passed without conditions and 3 received provisional passes As the intent of the committee is educational and corrective rather than punitive at this point no one has been asked to go inactive or resign

There are several reasons that one might not pass an au-dit Failure to provide a valid First Aid Certificate insufficient professional development insufficient professional practice or sufficient but inappropriate professional practice or professional development are all valid grounds for not passing There is also some confusion as to what can count towards CPD hours While some training is relatively straightforward (ACMG refreshers CMSG training programs Avalanche Canada courses Interpre-tive Guides Association courses) there is no single method for

12 13 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Partnership Program UpdateBy Ken Beacutelanger

News

The ACMG and its members are power-ful centres of influence in the international outdoor recreation world particularly in the winter arena The ACMG Partnership Program seeks to leverage this influence by creating partnerships with leading suppliers These partnerships involve cash products co-branding and cross-marketing to help

the ACMG reach its mandate of Protecting the Public Interest in Mountain Travel

PARTNERSHIPSPlease welcome the newest ACMG Partners

Osprey Packs Canada The best packs in the business is now a Proud Partner of the ACMG Check out their fantastic new Pro Purchase pricing for ACMG members The same company distributes Exped in Canada so there is a great new Pro Purchase there as well

adidas Sport Eyewearadidas prides itself on the highest quality optics They are

thrilled to be an ACMG Proud Partner and will sponsor the ACMG Board of Directors with eyewear Pro Purchase infor-mation is posted on the member website

G3 ndash Genuine Guide Gear G3 has increased their level of partnership support to Logan our highest category Theyrsquove committed to a fourth year of the G3 Early Bird ACMG Giveback Program watch for details this fall

Arcrsquoteryx Our 1 Partner continues to shine Together wersquove created a new Equipment Award Two ACMG recipients each year will receive $2000 in Arcrsquoteryx equipment Application details are on the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Arcrsquoteryx has generously donated 100 ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jackets to our association We have every size available except medium in both menrsquos and womenrsquos You can pur-chase one at any upcoming ACMG event (CPDs AGM etc) for only $150

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jacket

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG technical cap

The ACMG technical cap is here The Escapa hat from Arcrsquoteryx is a technical trucker hat con-structed of breathable nylon fabric with a stretch mesh back The laminated brim is pliable so it can be rolled or folded easily The reflective Arcrsquoteryx logo is offset by the stylish silk screened ACMG logo on the opposite side

Retail price on this hat is $50 + $8 silk screening + tax but thanks to our fantastic Logan ACMG Partnership with Arcrsquoteryx wersquore able to offer this for only $30 to ACMG members

Available in Nautic Grey in two sizes S-M (55-57cm) amp L-XL (58-60cm) Arcrsquoteryx hat sizing chart

Limited quantities and only available for purchase at ACMG events such as CPDs and the Annual General Meeting

inReach Canada inReach became an ACMG Columbia Partner at the beginning of the year When in the remote backcountry donrsquot just send an OK message use your device to send texts get weather forecasts and more ACMG members receive discounted pricing on com-munication plans

IntuitionRemember ACMG guests qualify for 15 off any Intuition Liner on their website using the special ACMG15 discount code Give them a call in Vancouver if you have any fitting questions ndash they

love ACMG members and guests and are always happy to help

Dynafit Dynafit is the newest ACMG Columbia Partner Our partner-ship will improve the communication between ACMG members and Dynafit North America as well as streamline the Pro Pur-chase program

EVENTS

2016 Banff Mountain Film amp Book FestivalThe ACMG will continue its sponsorship of the Best Guidebook award The ex-posure we received from our 2015 participation was sig-nificant We had a new high-profile booth location in the lobby area of the Eric Harvie (main) theatre Our logo and support was displayed at the Festival Tour in thousands of locations around North America

Arcrsquoteryx Climbing AcademyThe ACMG will have a booth and presence at the Arcrsquoteryx Climbing Academy in Squamish BC July 14-17 2016

We have many events planned for 2016 Wersquore always happy for help at any of them and Irsquoll make sure you get some swag for your efforts If you can help out please drop me a line at partnershipacmgca

I look forward to seeing you at this yearrsquos Annual General Meeting in Canmore October 15-16 All our Partners are in-vited to the Partner Expo Come check out the newest prod-ucts network directly with brands and attend custom clinics for ACMG members

The ACMGrsquos current list of Partners can be found here and on the back cover of this issue of The Arecircte

Please support our Partners as they support the ACMG

ACMG exhibitor booth Photo - Ken Beacutelanger

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

14 15 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Continuing Professional Development ReportBy Alison Dakin

News

Hello fellow members A big thumbs up for the excellent participation of our members in the various CPD workshops and presenta-tions of the past year During the 2015 CPD events in Squamish Canmore and Revelstoke almost all of the sessions had solid turnouts with many of the workshops being sold out

The big news for 2016 CPDs is the ex-pansion of the program to 3 days per event

with 3 different locales used Each year there will be a coastal interior and a Rockies event The goal is to provide opportunities for everyone to participate by rotating the season in which the events are scheduled in each area

During each 3 day event technical field courses will be bal-anced with soft skill workshops case histories and informational presentations will be linked to the popular ldquosocialrdquo event Atten-tion will be given to utilize the regionrsquos best attributes for access to rock snow ice climbing gyms flora and fauna and locally based instructors

In addition to the 3-day events we will also continue to hold several one-off sessions in different places These will include workshops for climbing gym instructors in some of our bigger city centres where these members often reside They will also in-

clude technical courses such as the ever popular ski coaching by Dave Honeyman (currently being offered in Banff Golden and Revelstoke)

One of the biggest challenges is to offer a variety of courses and workshops that are of interest and benefit for all disciplines within the ACMG membership From our recent member sur-vey we received some great feedback for new courses as well as some requests to re-do the better ones from the past If you have other suggestions for a CPD topic please let us know If you have contacts for the right skilled person to offer a workshop or presentation that is even better and can allow us to get right to the source Maybe that person is yourself (most excellent) or another member (also excellent) or perhaps you know a profes-sional from another realm who has skills and information to offer and share with our members It is this type of networking that brings the best from within our association as well as access to quality new people and ideas

Please contact me with any feedback about the CPD pro-cess at cpdacmgca Have a safe fun and rewarding summer

Alison Dakin an ACMG Ski amp Hiking Guide and the Continuing Professional Development Coordinator lives in Golden BC

ACMG Scholarship NewsBy Derek Wilding

Arcteryx Equipment Award The generous folks at Arcrsquoteryx have come through again in the form of a new award for apprentice members in the mountain stream The new Arcteryx Equipment Award will be distributed in the form of two $2000 equipment credits with Arcteryx to use towards their gear

Recipients will be selected based on the following criteria so be sure your application specifically highlights yourbull Commitment to professionalism and safety in the mountainsbull Drive to constantly push personal boundaries through adventures

activities andor in daily lifebull Ability to inspire friends and community to be active in mountain

sportsbull Stewardship of the environment

Arcrsquoteryx Product Development Training FundArcrsquoteryx has also graciously created a training award directed specifically at Apprentice Ski Guides who are in the process of pursuing certification The award will cover 3 days of training with a current CMSG instructor for 2 members and will also provide Arcrsquoteryx with an opportunity to connect with and gain valuable product feedback from the recipients

Digital application forms for the Arcrsquoteryx Equipment Award and Product Development Training Fund can be found in the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund Created by ACMG member Olivia Sofer in memory of her late husband Robson Gmoser this fund is intended to assist aspiring guides and instructors to obtain the mentorship that will help them succeed in their quest for certification Robson was a strong proponent of the value of mentorship in helping to develop the skills and behaviours of aspiring guides He believed that the re-lationship formed between mentor and student was absolutely the key to success

Eligibilitybull People who are currently enrolled in any part of Thompson Rivers

Universityrsquos Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (moun-tain hiking or climbing instructor programs) ndash they do not need to be ACMG members yet

bull ACMG members who are working toward progressing their cer-tification level

Selection Criteriabull Strength of applicationbull Strength of reference

Awardbull People who have engaged in a practicum opportunity may ap-

ply for reimbursement of funds to offset the mentorrsquos expenses in bringing the applicant along on the trip ndash funds are then sent to the mentor

bull People who are looking to improve their skill sets in order to progress in their certification levels may apply for funds to pay an individual instructor coach or trainer for specific trainingApplications can be found in the members section of the

ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Gmoser Mentorship Fund

There is no deadline for this application as they can be made any time of year

ACMG ScholarshipsIn addition applications for many other financial awards and funded training can be found on the member website including thebull Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for Apprentice

Guides)bull DrsquoArcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course

subsidy)bull Arcrsquoteryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies of $500 $1000

and $1500)bull Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies)

Continued on page 45

Left to right ACMG members Helen Sovdat Walter Bruns and Jasmin Caton at the 2014 Squamish rock CPD Photo - Jorg WIlz

16 17 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

THANK YOUFOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH

COMMUNITY AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY

AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS

7378 routes planned 8125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented16750 observations submitted WWWAVATECHCOM

Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted AreaBy Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass to teach the field day of an AST 1 course My group carpooled in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 15 hours while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal Canadian Army using the Howitzers

In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye-sight of the vehicles What I did not realize is that by mak-ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA) This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high-way and then wondered where we had gone

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per-mit in my truck in Revelstoke

I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and note the following bull Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highwaybull It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park

Permit while working in the National Parks bull The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a

court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine)

I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava-lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for my misconduct

Sabina Wodak an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Revelstoke BC

PROGENUINEGUIDEGEARCOM

STEPOUTSIDE

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW

EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration G3rsquos exclusive ACMG

Early Bird Pro Deal will be back this September

18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

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Fis

her

Cre

ativ

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thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

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40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 4: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

6 7 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide Program Update

By Dwayne Congdon

News

ThanksThe listed individuals and businesses provided operational support for the Ski Guide certificate and the listed climbing facilities generously provided their venue for at least one Climbing Gym Instructor course over the past winter season This support is critical to the successful conduct of Guide Training Skiing courses Ski Guide exams and the Climbing Gym Instructor Program

2016 Ski Guide Exam and Climbing Instructor Pass RatesPass rates are posted below to allow ACMG members to monitor how effectively the CMSG program is preparing candidates to meet ACMG standards

Ski Guide StreamCharlie Locke (Lake Louise Ski Resort)Revelstoke Mountain Resort Sutton Place HotelWhistler Heli-SkiingWhistler Blackcomb Ski ResortSelkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingGreat Canadian Heli-skiingCMH Revelstoke Arrow HelicoptersAlpine HelicoptersCMH AdamantsSilver King Helicopters

Eastern Canada Hiking Guide CourseAs previously reported in the Arete a Hiking Guide course was recently completed (May 24-June 1) at Lake Placid New York The course was intended for guides based in Eastern Canada and included 6 participants The course used terrain in the Ad-irondack Mountains which proved to be ideal for the course objectives The instructors were Helen Sovdat and Bjarne Baek

Prior Learning Assessment and Recognition (PLAR)This spring four Ski Guides and two NOLS instructors used PLAR to obtain a Hiking Guide certificate of equivalency See Changes in ACMG Membership on page 49 for names

Winter Hiking CourseThis optional course is intended for Assistant Hiking Guides and Hiking Guides who wish to guide in winter conditions This two-day course replaces the ACMGrsquos winter travel accredi-tation process The course takes place in Lake Louise December 11 12

Course content will focus onbull Winter hazards (including avoiding avalanche terrain)bull Client care in winter conditions

bull Travel techniques (with snowshoes and traction devices or walking crampons)

bull Winter campingbull Interpretation in the winter environment

Changes to Movement Skills Screening (Skiing and Riding)Any person planning to apply to Guide Training Skiing is wel-come to screen their movement skills prior to applying This is recommended for applicants who are unsure their movement skills are at the screening standard

Starting in 2017 applicants who pass the screening will be allowed to carry their result forward into Guide Training Skiing and will not be required to re-screen

Two screening sessions are scheduled to take place on Jan 20 mdash one at Whistler Blackcomb and one at Kicking Horse Resort Contact the CMSG program office for further details

Dwayne Congdon is an ACMG Mountain Guide and coordinator of the CMSG Program at Thompson Rivers University in Kam-loops BC

Climbing Gym Instructor ProgramElevation Place mdash Canmore ABThe Boulders Climbing Gym mdash Sannichton BCClimb Base5 Climbing Gym mdash Coquitlam BCGround Up Climbing Centre mdash Squamish BCThe Calgary Climbing Centre (Hanger) mdash Calgary ABWilson Climbing Centre University of Alberta mdash EdmontonJunction Climbing Centre mdash London ON

2016 2015 2014Qualification Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate

Apprentice Ski Guidea 27 81 24 87 27 85

Ski Guide 33 82 21 76 36 67

Top Rope Climbing Instructorb 24 100 31 100 16 100

Climbing Gym Instructor 1 46 96 90 96 80 90

Climbing Gym Instructor 2 4 75 4 75 11 100

a One appeal pending and one re-test pendingb One course still pending

Claire Dixon amp Cornelius Brenninkmeyer Award This award is in memory of Claire Dixon and Cornelius Brennink-meyer who died in a snow caving accident in January 2007 Corne-lius was a student in the Ski Guide Certificate

The recipient is chosen by CMSG instructors and presented to a

Guide Training Skiing student who has demonstrated 1 Excellent leadership and people skills 2 Excellent technical skills 3 Superior attention to safety during guide training

The 2016 award recipient is Christine Feleki

8 9 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

Via FerrataUnder the leadership of ACMG Mountain Guide James Blench the Technical Commit-tee has been working on a draft proposal for our Via Ferrata training program It is cur-rently being reviewed by stakeholders and will be communicated to the membership once we have a better understanding of how

the process will workThe training program and certification will be strictly for

the low risk high ratio Via Ferrata installations with a very high level of operational risk management and oversight Initially it will likely only be available to existing ACMG members in the Top Rope Climbing Instructor Ski Guide and Hiking Guide streams and eventually we will build a stand alone course that will better serve operators in East-ern Canada and other areas where there is a low density of existing ACMG members

ManualsThe Climbing Gym Instructor manual was more or less com-pleted this winter and has been used on CGI courses this spring with positive feedback so far ACMG Webmaster Chris Miller is still working on the final touches for incorporating the instruc-tional videos and we hope to have the completed version soon as an EPUB document available on iBooks and other retailers soon

Creating this manual laid the foundation for how we can proceed with the technical manual for the Mountain Guide stream I have dedicated significant time to the Technical Manual project for this summer

Canadian Avalanche Association Terrain Competency CommitteeI continue to be involved in this committee however progress has been very slow over the winter with a few conference calls and some email threads Although a bit slower than everyone hoped I believe the direction will prove to be positive for all avalanche professionals in Canada

The ACMGrsquos continued role as a stakeholder in this dis-cussion is important as the outcome will affect the respon-sibilities of all CAA professional members

Apprentice Guide TimelinesWe continue to work on educating members about the Appren-tice Guide timelines at various stages of their careers It seems that over time people are generally becoming more understand-ing of the details of this policy and the reasons behind it

Technical Directorrsquos ReportBy Marc Picheacute

We have had a handful of applications for extensions over the course of the winter but only one new one was ap-proved The applications that were rejected were based on poor time and career management although challenging this is specifically what this policy is attempting to manage

At the end of the 2016 Ski Guide exam season there were three members who missed the timeline and will loose their status as ACMG Apprentice Ski Guides They will be able to reapply for membership but will be required to do some upgrading prior to be accepted and will be given a date by which time they will have to challenge the Ski Guide exam

If you passed an Apprentice exam in 2013 and have not yet completed the final certificate exam in that stream (or the Apprentice Alpine exam for Apprentice Rock Guides wishing to become Alpine Guides) this is your year

ACMGrsquos Role in Accidents and IncidentsIt is becoming increasingly evident that the ACMG must de-termine and define what its roles responsibilities and goals are with regards to accidents and incidents This is a very complex subject that is influenced by legal and cultural issues as well as the various other agencies and stakeholders involved Over the winter Executive Director Peter Tucker and myself have been involved in numerous phone calls and email threads with the Canadian Avalanche Association Backcountry Lodges of British Columbia Avalanche Canada and HeliCat Canada in an effort to answer the many questions we are all facing

The ACMG has had an Accident Committee working on aspects of this subject and we will be looking at how to in-corporate their findings while meeting ACMG goals More to comehellip

Arcrsquoteryx Mountain Conditions Report (MCR) AppThe MCR website and IOS mobile phone app were launched to the public mid-March and have been generally well received Arcrsquoteryx is in the process of working on version 2 which will include several upgrades with a focus on more filters both while viewing reports on the map and in list mode

Arcrsquoteryx has not yet promoted the MCR in their own social media campaign and plans to do so at some point during the summer This will greatly increase visits to the site however so far the level of interest has been quite high given that our only promotion has been through ACMG channels

As of the end of May the website has seen over 54000 page views by nearly 11000 users So far the app has been downloaded nearly 700 times with the majority being in

Canada and a smattering around the globe including Chi-na Japan and the UK

We are currently working with Arcrsquoteryx to help them move towards including other guides associations includ-ing the American Mountain Guides Association and several interested countries in Europe

VariancesThe Technical Committee has approved two variances for the coming summer They are for the Mount Norquay Via Ferrata and Yamnuskas Cadet Camp Glacier Program They can be viewed in more detail on the ACMG website There is a third variance currently being reviewed by the committee but due to the late application date it will not be complete by the begin-ning of the summer season

Russian Mountain Guides AssociationThis year we ran our second Ski Guide exam in the Mount El-brus area with the pass rates being similar to that of the Ca-

nadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program Students are quickly learning what level of dedication and training is necessary to be successful in this program

This year we also had our first observation from the IF-MGA Unfortunately the exam was being held during the IFMGA meetings so they were only able to observe on a training course This was an important next step for us in terms of determining the required work before Russia can be admitted into the IFMGA as a candidate country

Another significant step forward taken this year was that it was the first time we used a Russian instructor on a training course This was an important first step towards the Russian Mountain Guides Association becoming more independent in the future

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

View of the Caucasus Mountains from 4000m on Mt Elbrus during the RMGA Ski Guide Exam - Photo Marc Picheacute

10 11 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

I attended the IFMGA meetings in Sicily Italy in early May Technical Director Marc Picheacute was unable to be there as he was still committed in Russia To quote him ldquothe President had to attend without his security detailrdquo Over the past year the biggest issues facing the IFMGA have been the election of a new President and the move towards a double majority on voting

Incumbents Hanno Doenz from Austria and Christian Trommsdorff from France were both running for President Christian won the election He has been actively involved on the board is a dual national of France and Germany and is fluent in French German and English His platform was to commit to a mandate of inclusiveness with all of the IFMGA countries

The double majority vote was interesting In the current system each of the 23 member countries gets one vote for every 100 IFMGA Mountain Guides Canada gets two votes as we have between 100 and 200 Mountain Guides France Austria and Switzerland with well over 1000 Mountain Guides each get 12 to 13 votes There are currently a total of 71 votes This means that in the past countries like Canada the USA or New Zealand with only one or two votes would have little to no influence especially if the western European countries colluded on an issue Last fall the Swiss Guides Association

President Pierre Mathey put forward a motion that would require a double majority on voting on all issues This would mean that each country would retain its current number of votes but that a majority of member countries would also be required for motions to pass In other words a country like Canada would more or less have an equal voice to a country like Switzerland This is a big step and indicative of the com-mitment of the IFMGA towards inclusiveness The vote was almost unanimous with Spain surprisingly voting against this change (they currently have one vote) It was very encour-aging to see countries like France Switzerland Austria and Germany that hold the majority of votes support this motion

Other recent positive changes include the addition of two directors outside of the founding countries in mainland western Europe The board now includes a director from the UK (Mark Diggins) and one from Sweden (Mike Wright) Inci-dentally a double majority is what the ACMG is considering as a possible solution to the inequalities on voting for bylaw changes Currently only Mountain Guides can vote on these If a double majority was adopted all members could vote and a majority of all members plus a majority of Mountain Guides would be required More info on the IFMGA can be found at httpwwwivbvinfoenhomehtml

Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff AB

certainly be criticized for being ldquoRockies-centricrdquo In the future we would like to try again to organize MCR summaries for the Coast range and possibly a summary specific to the Interior ranges If anyone has any interest in being involved in either of those projects please get in touch with the MCR Informalex committee comm_mcracmgca

Finally thanks to the MCR Informalex committee for their work and especially Tom Wolfe for making the original email system work so smoothly all these years There are no changes planned to the current guidersquos Informalex

Larry Stanier an ACMG Mountain Guide and the MCR Infor-malex Committee Chair lives in Canmore AB

The big news in this little department is the new Mountain Conditions Report website If you havenrsquot done so (shame on you -) check it out at wwwmountainconditionscom Follow the instructions to sign up and start adding reports

I would really like to thank John Houss-er Kyle Goertzen James Bronson Jurgen

Watts and Raluca Axente from Arcrsquoteryx They have all been great to work with and have made the transition surprisingly smooth Our Technical Director Marc Picheacute did most of the initial work from the ACMGrsquos end and now it is being admin-istered by the ACMG Admin Assistant Elaine Powers I mostly just tried to stay out of their way

The MCR summaries for the Rockies and Columbia Moun-tains will continue to fill in the gap between the end and start of the Public Avalanche forecasting season These summaries can

IFMGA NewsBy Marc Ledwidge

BlackDiamondEquipmentcom

The Sharp End Shell Constructed with lightweight and durable GORE-TEXreg Pro for waterproof breathable protection

MCR Informalex Committee ReportBy Larry Stanier

Professional Practices Committee ReportBy Nathan Dahl

maintaining or enhancing the currency of onersquos knowledge in a specific area of practice The required technical skills are unique to onersquos practice and can only be adequately determined by the individual If you are uncertain whether or not a course meets the ACMG CPD requirements for your membership stream consult the Continuing Professional Development document on the ACMG member website under Governance gt CPD or send me an e-mail and we can discuss if it seems appropriate

By the time you are reading this the committee will have delivered the next round of audits to another 20 members and will be in the process of reviewing their files If you have any questions or comments about the audit process dont hesitate to get in touch with me at pro-practicesacmgca

Nathan Dahl Chair of the Professional Practices Committee is an ACMG Hiking Guide from Calgary AB

This past fall the Professional Practices Committee delivered its second audit to another 20 randomly selected members As before the selected members were asked to submit records of their professional practice and continuing professional development (CPD) for the past two years as well as a copy of their current First Aid certificate

Each file was then reviewed by two members of the Pro-fessional Practices Committee If all conditions of membership were met the member received an Unconditional Pass If one or more of the conditions of membership were not met the member received a Provisional Pass

Of the 20 members who were selected for the audit 17 passed without conditions and 3 received provisional passes As the intent of the committee is educational and corrective rather than punitive at this point no one has been asked to go inactive or resign

There are several reasons that one might not pass an au-dit Failure to provide a valid First Aid Certificate insufficient professional development insufficient professional practice or sufficient but inappropriate professional practice or professional development are all valid grounds for not passing There is also some confusion as to what can count towards CPD hours While some training is relatively straightforward (ACMG refreshers CMSG training programs Avalanche Canada courses Interpre-tive Guides Association courses) there is no single method for

12 13 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Partnership Program UpdateBy Ken Beacutelanger

News

The ACMG and its members are power-ful centres of influence in the international outdoor recreation world particularly in the winter arena The ACMG Partnership Program seeks to leverage this influence by creating partnerships with leading suppliers These partnerships involve cash products co-branding and cross-marketing to help

the ACMG reach its mandate of Protecting the Public Interest in Mountain Travel

PARTNERSHIPSPlease welcome the newest ACMG Partners

Osprey Packs Canada The best packs in the business is now a Proud Partner of the ACMG Check out their fantastic new Pro Purchase pricing for ACMG members The same company distributes Exped in Canada so there is a great new Pro Purchase there as well

adidas Sport Eyewearadidas prides itself on the highest quality optics They are

thrilled to be an ACMG Proud Partner and will sponsor the ACMG Board of Directors with eyewear Pro Purchase infor-mation is posted on the member website

G3 ndash Genuine Guide Gear G3 has increased their level of partnership support to Logan our highest category Theyrsquove committed to a fourth year of the G3 Early Bird ACMG Giveback Program watch for details this fall

Arcrsquoteryx Our 1 Partner continues to shine Together wersquove created a new Equipment Award Two ACMG recipients each year will receive $2000 in Arcrsquoteryx equipment Application details are on the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Arcrsquoteryx has generously donated 100 ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jackets to our association We have every size available except medium in both menrsquos and womenrsquos You can pur-chase one at any upcoming ACMG event (CPDs AGM etc) for only $150

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jacket

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG technical cap

The ACMG technical cap is here The Escapa hat from Arcrsquoteryx is a technical trucker hat con-structed of breathable nylon fabric with a stretch mesh back The laminated brim is pliable so it can be rolled or folded easily The reflective Arcrsquoteryx logo is offset by the stylish silk screened ACMG logo on the opposite side

Retail price on this hat is $50 + $8 silk screening + tax but thanks to our fantastic Logan ACMG Partnership with Arcrsquoteryx wersquore able to offer this for only $30 to ACMG members

Available in Nautic Grey in two sizes S-M (55-57cm) amp L-XL (58-60cm) Arcrsquoteryx hat sizing chart

Limited quantities and only available for purchase at ACMG events such as CPDs and the Annual General Meeting

inReach Canada inReach became an ACMG Columbia Partner at the beginning of the year When in the remote backcountry donrsquot just send an OK message use your device to send texts get weather forecasts and more ACMG members receive discounted pricing on com-munication plans

IntuitionRemember ACMG guests qualify for 15 off any Intuition Liner on their website using the special ACMG15 discount code Give them a call in Vancouver if you have any fitting questions ndash they

love ACMG members and guests and are always happy to help

Dynafit Dynafit is the newest ACMG Columbia Partner Our partner-ship will improve the communication between ACMG members and Dynafit North America as well as streamline the Pro Pur-chase program

EVENTS

2016 Banff Mountain Film amp Book FestivalThe ACMG will continue its sponsorship of the Best Guidebook award The ex-posure we received from our 2015 participation was sig-nificant We had a new high-profile booth location in the lobby area of the Eric Harvie (main) theatre Our logo and support was displayed at the Festival Tour in thousands of locations around North America

Arcrsquoteryx Climbing AcademyThe ACMG will have a booth and presence at the Arcrsquoteryx Climbing Academy in Squamish BC July 14-17 2016

We have many events planned for 2016 Wersquore always happy for help at any of them and Irsquoll make sure you get some swag for your efforts If you can help out please drop me a line at partnershipacmgca

I look forward to seeing you at this yearrsquos Annual General Meeting in Canmore October 15-16 All our Partners are in-vited to the Partner Expo Come check out the newest prod-ucts network directly with brands and attend custom clinics for ACMG members

The ACMGrsquos current list of Partners can be found here and on the back cover of this issue of The Arecircte

Please support our Partners as they support the ACMG

ACMG exhibitor booth Photo - Ken Beacutelanger

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

14 15 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Continuing Professional Development ReportBy Alison Dakin

News

Hello fellow members A big thumbs up for the excellent participation of our members in the various CPD workshops and presenta-tions of the past year During the 2015 CPD events in Squamish Canmore and Revelstoke almost all of the sessions had solid turnouts with many of the workshops being sold out

The big news for 2016 CPDs is the ex-pansion of the program to 3 days per event

with 3 different locales used Each year there will be a coastal interior and a Rockies event The goal is to provide opportunities for everyone to participate by rotating the season in which the events are scheduled in each area

During each 3 day event technical field courses will be bal-anced with soft skill workshops case histories and informational presentations will be linked to the popular ldquosocialrdquo event Atten-tion will be given to utilize the regionrsquos best attributes for access to rock snow ice climbing gyms flora and fauna and locally based instructors

In addition to the 3-day events we will also continue to hold several one-off sessions in different places These will include workshops for climbing gym instructors in some of our bigger city centres where these members often reside They will also in-

clude technical courses such as the ever popular ski coaching by Dave Honeyman (currently being offered in Banff Golden and Revelstoke)

One of the biggest challenges is to offer a variety of courses and workshops that are of interest and benefit for all disciplines within the ACMG membership From our recent member sur-vey we received some great feedback for new courses as well as some requests to re-do the better ones from the past If you have other suggestions for a CPD topic please let us know If you have contacts for the right skilled person to offer a workshop or presentation that is even better and can allow us to get right to the source Maybe that person is yourself (most excellent) or another member (also excellent) or perhaps you know a profes-sional from another realm who has skills and information to offer and share with our members It is this type of networking that brings the best from within our association as well as access to quality new people and ideas

Please contact me with any feedback about the CPD pro-cess at cpdacmgca Have a safe fun and rewarding summer

Alison Dakin an ACMG Ski amp Hiking Guide and the Continuing Professional Development Coordinator lives in Golden BC

ACMG Scholarship NewsBy Derek Wilding

Arcteryx Equipment Award The generous folks at Arcrsquoteryx have come through again in the form of a new award for apprentice members in the mountain stream The new Arcteryx Equipment Award will be distributed in the form of two $2000 equipment credits with Arcteryx to use towards their gear

Recipients will be selected based on the following criteria so be sure your application specifically highlights yourbull Commitment to professionalism and safety in the mountainsbull Drive to constantly push personal boundaries through adventures

activities andor in daily lifebull Ability to inspire friends and community to be active in mountain

sportsbull Stewardship of the environment

Arcrsquoteryx Product Development Training FundArcrsquoteryx has also graciously created a training award directed specifically at Apprentice Ski Guides who are in the process of pursuing certification The award will cover 3 days of training with a current CMSG instructor for 2 members and will also provide Arcrsquoteryx with an opportunity to connect with and gain valuable product feedback from the recipients

Digital application forms for the Arcrsquoteryx Equipment Award and Product Development Training Fund can be found in the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund Created by ACMG member Olivia Sofer in memory of her late husband Robson Gmoser this fund is intended to assist aspiring guides and instructors to obtain the mentorship that will help them succeed in their quest for certification Robson was a strong proponent of the value of mentorship in helping to develop the skills and behaviours of aspiring guides He believed that the re-lationship formed between mentor and student was absolutely the key to success

Eligibilitybull People who are currently enrolled in any part of Thompson Rivers

Universityrsquos Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (moun-tain hiking or climbing instructor programs) ndash they do not need to be ACMG members yet

bull ACMG members who are working toward progressing their cer-tification level

Selection Criteriabull Strength of applicationbull Strength of reference

Awardbull People who have engaged in a practicum opportunity may ap-

ply for reimbursement of funds to offset the mentorrsquos expenses in bringing the applicant along on the trip ndash funds are then sent to the mentor

bull People who are looking to improve their skill sets in order to progress in their certification levels may apply for funds to pay an individual instructor coach or trainer for specific trainingApplications can be found in the members section of the

ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Gmoser Mentorship Fund

There is no deadline for this application as they can be made any time of year

ACMG ScholarshipsIn addition applications for many other financial awards and funded training can be found on the member website including thebull Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for Apprentice

Guides)bull DrsquoArcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course

subsidy)bull Arcrsquoteryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies of $500 $1000

and $1500)bull Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies)

Continued on page 45

Left to right ACMG members Helen Sovdat Walter Bruns and Jasmin Caton at the 2014 Squamish rock CPD Photo - Jorg WIlz

16 17 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

THANK YOUFOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH

COMMUNITY AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY

AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS

7378 routes planned 8125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented16750 observations submitted WWWAVATECHCOM

Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted AreaBy Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass to teach the field day of an AST 1 course My group carpooled in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 15 hours while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal Canadian Army using the Howitzers

In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye-sight of the vehicles What I did not realize is that by mak-ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA) This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high-way and then wondered where we had gone

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per-mit in my truck in Revelstoke

I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and note the following bull Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highwaybull It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park

Permit while working in the National Parks bull The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a

court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine)

I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava-lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for my misconduct

Sabina Wodak an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Revelstoke BC

PROGENUINEGUIDEGEARCOM

STEPOUTSIDE

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW

EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration G3rsquos exclusive ACMG

Early Bird Pro Deal will be back this September

18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 5: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

8 9 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

Via FerrataUnder the leadership of ACMG Mountain Guide James Blench the Technical Commit-tee has been working on a draft proposal for our Via Ferrata training program It is cur-rently being reviewed by stakeholders and will be communicated to the membership once we have a better understanding of how

the process will workThe training program and certification will be strictly for

the low risk high ratio Via Ferrata installations with a very high level of operational risk management and oversight Initially it will likely only be available to existing ACMG members in the Top Rope Climbing Instructor Ski Guide and Hiking Guide streams and eventually we will build a stand alone course that will better serve operators in East-ern Canada and other areas where there is a low density of existing ACMG members

ManualsThe Climbing Gym Instructor manual was more or less com-pleted this winter and has been used on CGI courses this spring with positive feedback so far ACMG Webmaster Chris Miller is still working on the final touches for incorporating the instruc-tional videos and we hope to have the completed version soon as an EPUB document available on iBooks and other retailers soon

Creating this manual laid the foundation for how we can proceed with the technical manual for the Mountain Guide stream I have dedicated significant time to the Technical Manual project for this summer

Canadian Avalanche Association Terrain Competency CommitteeI continue to be involved in this committee however progress has been very slow over the winter with a few conference calls and some email threads Although a bit slower than everyone hoped I believe the direction will prove to be positive for all avalanche professionals in Canada

The ACMGrsquos continued role as a stakeholder in this dis-cussion is important as the outcome will affect the respon-sibilities of all CAA professional members

Apprentice Guide TimelinesWe continue to work on educating members about the Appren-tice Guide timelines at various stages of their careers It seems that over time people are generally becoming more understand-ing of the details of this policy and the reasons behind it

Technical Directorrsquos ReportBy Marc Picheacute

We have had a handful of applications for extensions over the course of the winter but only one new one was ap-proved The applications that were rejected were based on poor time and career management although challenging this is specifically what this policy is attempting to manage

At the end of the 2016 Ski Guide exam season there were three members who missed the timeline and will loose their status as ACMG Apprentice Ski Guides They will be able to reapply for membership but will be required to do some upgrading prior to be accepted and will be given a date by which time they will have to challenge the Ski Guide exam

If you passed an Apprentice exam in 2013 and have not yet completed the final certificate exam in that stream (or the Apprentice Alpine exam for Apprentice Rock Guides wishing to become Alpine Guides) this is your year

ACMGrsquos Role in Accidents and IncidentsIt is becoming increasingly evident that the ACMG must de-termine and define what its roles responsibilities and goals are with regards to accidents and incidents This is a very complex subject that is influenced by legal and cultural issues as well as the various other agencies and stakeholders involved Over the winter Executive Director Peter Tucker and myself have been involved in numerous phone calls and email threads with the Canadian Avalanche Association Backcountry Lodges of British Columbia Avalanche Canada and HeliCat Canada in an effort to answer the many questions we are all facing

The ACMG has had an Accident Committee working on aspects of this subject and we will be looking at how to in-corporate their findings while meeting ACMG goals More to comehellip

Arcrsquoteryx Mountain Conditions Report (MCR) AppThe MCR website and IOS mobile phone app were launched to the public mid-March and have been generally well received Arcrsquoteryx is in the process of working on version 2 which will include several upgrades with a focus on more filters both while viewing reports on the map and in list mode

Arcrsquoteryx has not yet promoted the MCR in their own social media campaign and plans to do so at some point during the summer This will greatly increase visits to the site however so far the level of interest has been quite high given that our only promotion has been through ACMG channels

As of the end of May the website has seen over 54000 page views by nearly 11000 users So far the app has been downloaded nearly 700 times with the majority being in

Canada and a smattering around the globe including Chi-na Japan and the UK

We are currently working with Arcrsquoteryx to help them move towards including other guides associations includ-ing the American Mountain Guides Association and several interested countries in Europe

VariancesThe Technical Committee has approved two variances for the coming summer They are for the Mount Norquay Via Ferrata and Yamnuskas Cadet Camp Glacier Program They can be viewed in more detail on the ACMG website There is a third variance currently being reviewed by the committee but due to the late application date it will not be complete by the begin-ning of the summer season

Russian Mountain Guides AssociationThis year we ran our second Ski Guide exam in the Mount El-brus area with the pass rates being similar to that of the Ca-

nadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program Students are quickly learning what level of dedication and training is necessary to be successful in this program

This year we also had our first observation from the IF-MGA Unfortunately the exam was being held during the IFMGA meetings so they were only able to observe on a training course This was an important next step for us in terms of determining the required work before Russia can be admitted into the IFMGA as a candidate country

Another significant step forward taken this year was that it was the first time we used a Russian instructor on a training course This was an important first step towards the Russian Mountain Guides Association becoming more independent in the future

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

View of the Caucasus Mountains from 4000m on Mt Elbrus during the RMGA Ski Guide Exam - Photo Marc Picheacute

10 11 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

I attended the IFMGA meetings in Sicily Italy in early May Technical Director Marc Picheacute was unable to be there as he was still committed in Russia To quote him ldquothe President had to attend without his security detailrdquo Over the past year the biggest issues facing the IFMGA have been the election of a new President and the move towards a double majority on voting

Incumbents Hanno Doenz from Austria and Christian Trommsdorff from France were both running for President Christian won the election He has been actively involved on the board is a dual national of France and Germany and is fluent in French German and English His platform was to commit to a mandate of inclusiveness with all of the IFMGA countries

The double majority vote was interesting In the current system each of the 23 member countries gets one vote for every 100 IFMGA Mountain Guides Canada gets two votes as we have between 100 and 200 Mountain Guides France Austria and Switzerland with well over 1000 Mountain Guides each get 12 to 13 votes There are currently a total of 71 votes This means that in the past countries like Canada the USA or New Zealand with only one or two votes would have little to no influence especially if the western European countries colluded on an issue Last fall the Swiss Guides Association

President Pierre Mathey put forward a motion that would require a double majority on voting on all issues This would mean that each country would retain its current number of votes but that a majority of member countries would also be required for motions to pass In other words a country like Canada would more or less have an equal voice to a country like Switzerland This is a big step and indicative of the com-mitment of the IFMGA towards inclusiveness The vote was almost unanimous with Spain surprisingly voting against this change (they currently have one vote) It was very encour-aging to see countries like France Switzerland Austria and Germany that hold the majority of votes support this motion

Other recent positive changes include the addition of two directors outside of the founding countries in mainland western Europe The board now includes a director from the UK (Mark Diggins) and one from Sweden (Mike Wright) Inci-dentally a double majority is what the ACMG is considering as a possible solution to the inequalities on voting for bylaw changes Currently only Mountain Guides can vote on these If a double majority was adopted all members could vote and a majority of all members plus a majority of Mountain Guides would be required More info on the IFMGA can be found at httpwwwivbvinfoenhomehtml

Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff AB

certainly be criticized for being ldquoRockies-centricrdquo In the future we would like to try again to organize MCR summaries for the Coast range and possibly a summary specific to the Interior ranges If anyone has any interest in being involved in either of those projects please get in touch with the MCR Informalex committee comm_mcracmgca

Finally thanks to the MCR Informalex committee for their work and especially Tom Wolfe for making the original email system work so smoothly all these years There are no changes planned to the current guidersquos Informalex

Larry Stanier an ACMG Mountain Guide and the MCR Infor-malex Committee Chair lives in Canmore AB

The big news in this little department is the new Mountain Conditions Report website If you havenrsquot done so (shame on you -) check it out at wwwmountainconditionscom Follow the instructions to sign up and start adding reports

I would really like to thank John Houss-er Kyle Goertzen James Bronson Jurgen

Watts and Raluca Axente from Arcrsquoteryx They have all been great to work with and have made the transition surprisingly smooth Our Technical Director Marc Picheacute did most of the initial work from the ACMGrsquos end and now it is being admin-istered by the ACMG Admin Assistant Elaine Powers I mostly just tried to stay out of their way

The MCR summaries for the Rockies and Columbia Moun-tains will continue to fill in the gap between the end and start of the Public Avalanche forecasting season These summaries can

IFMGA NewsBy Marc Ledwidge

BlackDiamondEquipmentcom

The Sharp End Shell Constructed with lightweight and durable GORE-TEXreg Pro for waterproof breathable protection

MCR Informalex Committee ReportBy Larry Stanier

Professional Practices Committee ReportBy Nathan Dahl

maintaining or enhancing the currency of onersquos knowledge in a specific area of practice The required technical skills are unique to onersquos practice and can only be adequately determined by the individual If you are uncertain whether or not a course meets the ACMG CPD requirements for your membership stream consult the Continuing Professional Development document on the ACMG member website under Governance gt CPD or send me an e-mail and we can discuss if it seems appropriate

By the time you are reading this the committee will have delivered the next round of audits to another 20 members and will be in the process of reviewing their files If you have any questions or comments about the audit process dont hesitate to get in touch with me at pro-practicesacmgca

Nathan Dahl Chair of the Professional Practices Committee is an ACMG Hiking Guide from Calgary AB

This past fall the Professional Practices Committee delivered its second audit to another 20 randomly selected members As before the selected members were asked to submit records of their professional practice and continuing professional development (CPD) for the past two years as well as a copy of their current First Aid certificate

Each file was then reviewed by two members of the Pro-fessional Practices Committee If all conditions of membership were met the member received an Unconditional Pass If one or more of the conditions of membership were not met the member received a Provisional Pass

Of the 20 members who were selected for the audit 17 passed without conditions and 3 received provisional passes As the intent of the committee is educational and corrective rather than punitive at this point no one has been asked to go inactive or resign

There are several reasons that one might not pass an au-dit Failure to provide a valid First Aid Certificate insufficient professional development insufficient professional practice or sufficient but inappropriate professional practice or professional development are all valid grounds for not passing There is also some confusion as to what can count towards CPD hours While some training is relatively straightforward (ACMG refreshers CMSG training programs Avalanche Canada courses Interpre-tive Guides Association courses) there is no single method for

12 13 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Partnership Program UpdateBy Ken Beacutelanger

News

The ACMG and its members are power-ful centres of influence in the international outdoor recreation world particularly in the winter arena The ACMG Partnership Program seeks to leverage this influence by creating partnerships with leading suppliers These partnerships involve cash products co-branding and cross-marketing to help

the ACMG reach its mandate of Protecting the Public Interest in Mountain Travel

PARTNERSHIPSPlease welcome the newest ACMG Partners

Osprey Packs Canada The best packs in the business is now a Proud Partner of the ACMG Check out their fantastic new Pro Purchase pricing for ACMG members The same company distributes Exped in Canada so there is a great new Pro Purchase there as well

adidas Sport Eyewearadidas prides itself on the highest quality optics They are

thrilled to be an ACMG Proud Partner and will sponsor the ACMG Board of Directors with eyewear Pro Purchase infor-mation is posted on the member website

G3 ndash Genuine Guide Gear G3 has increased their level of partnership support to Logan our highest category Theyrsquove committed to a fourth year of the G3 Early Bird ACMG Giveback Program watch for details this fall

Arcrsquoteryx Our 1 Partner continues to shine Together wersquove created a new Equipment Award Two ACMG recipients each year will receive $2000 in Arcrsquoteryx equipment Application details are on the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Arcrsquoteryx has generously donated 100 ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jackets to our association We have every size available except medium in both menrsquos and womenrsquos You can pur-chase one at any upcoming ACMG event (CPDs AGM etc) for only $150

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jacket

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG technical cap

The ACMG technical cap is here The Escapa hat from Arcrsquoteryx is a technical trucker hat con-structed of breathable nylon fabric with a stretch mesh back The laminated brim is pliable so it can be rolled or folded easily The reflective Arcrsquoteryx logo is offset by the stylish silk screened ACMG logo on the opposite side

Retail price on this hat is $50 + $8 silk screening + tax but thanks to our fantastic Logan ACMG Partnership with Arcrsquoteryx wersquore able to offer this for only $30 to ACMG members

Available in Nautic Grey in two sizes S-M (55-57cm) amp L-XL (58-60cm) Arcrsquoteryx hat sizing chart

Limited quantities and only available for purchase at ACMG events such as CPDs and the Annual General Meeting

inReach Canada inReach became an ACMG Columbia Partner at the beginning of the year When in the remote backcountry donrsquot just send an OK message use your device to send texts get weather forecasts and more ACMG members receive discounted pricing on com-munication plans

IntuitionRemember ACMG guests qualify for 15 off any Intuition Liner on their website using the special ACMG15 discount code Give them a call in Vancouver if you have any fitting questions ndash they

love ACMG members and guests and are always happy to help

Dynafit Dynafit is the newest ACMG Columbia Partner Our partner-ship will improve the communication between ACMG members and Dynafit North America as well as streamline the Pro Pur-chase program

EVENTS

2016 Banff Mountain Film amp Book FestivalThe ACMG will continue its sponsorship of the Best Guidebook award The ex-posure we received from our 2015 participation was sig-nificant We had a new high-profile booth location in the lobby area of the Eric Harvie (main) theatre Our logo and support was displayed at the Festival Tour in thousands of locations around North America

Arcrsquoteryx Climbing AcademyThe ACMG will have a booth and presence at the Arcrsquoteryx Climbing Academy in Squamish BC July 14-17 2016

We have many events planned for 2016 Wersquore always happy for help at any of them and Irsquoll make sure you get some swag for your efforts If you can help out please drop me a line at partnershipacmgca

I look forward to seeing you at this yearrsquos Annual General Meeting in Canmore October 15-16 All our Partners are in-vited to the Partner Expo Come check out the newest prod-ucts network directly with brands and attend custom clinics for ACMG members

The ACMGrsquos current list of Partners can be found here and on the back cover of this issue of The Arecircte

Please support our Partners as they support the ACMG

ACMG exhibitor booth Photo - Ken Beacutelanger

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

14 15 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Continuing Professional Development ReportBy Alison Dakin

News

Hello fellow members A big thumbs up for the excellent participation of our members in the various CPD workshops and presenta-tions of the past year During the 2015 CPD events in Squamish Canmore and Revelstoke almost all of the sessions had solid turnouts with many of the workshops being sold out

The big news for 2016 CPDs is the ex-pansion of the program to 3 days per event

with 3 different locales used Each year there will be a coastal interior and a Rockies event The goal is to provide opportunities for everyone to participate by rotating the season in which the events are scheduled in each area

During each 3 day event technical field courses will be bal-anced with soft skill workshops case histories and informational presentations will be linked to the popular ldquosocialrdquo event Atten-tion will be given to utilize the regionrsquos best attributes for access to rock snow ice climbing gyms flora and fauna and locally based instructors

In addition to the 3-day events we will also continue to hold several one-off sessions in different places These will include workshops for climbing gym instructors in some of our bigger city centres where these members often reside They will also in-

clude technical courses such as the ever popular ski coaching by Dave Honeyman (currently being offered in Banff Golden and Revelstoke)

One of the biggest challenges is to offer a variety of courses and workshops that are of interest and benefit for all disciplines within the ACMG membership From our recent member sur-vey we received some great feedback for new courses as well as some requests to re-do the better ones from the past If you have other suggestions for a CPD topic please let us know If you have contacts for the right skilled person to offer a workshop or presentation that is even better and can allow us to get right to the source Maybe that person is yourself (most excellent) or another member (also excellent) or perhaps you know a profes-sional from another realm who has skills and information to offer and share with our members It is this type of networking that brings the best from within our association as well as access to quality new people and ideas

Please contact me with any feedback about the CPD pro-cess at cpdacmgca Have a safe fun and rewarding summer

Alison Dakin an ACMG Ski amp Hiking Guide and the Continuing Professional Development Coordinator lives in Golden BC

ACMG Scholarship NewsBy Derek Wilding

Arcteryx Equipment Award The generous folks at Arcrsquoteryx have come through again in the form of a new award for apprentice members in the mountain stream The new Arcteryx Equipment Award will be distributed in the form of two $2000 equipment credits with Arcteryx to use towards their gear

Recipients will be selected based on the following criteria so be sure your application specifically highlights yourbull Commitment to professionalism and safety in the mountainsbull Drive to constantly push personal boundaries through adventures

activities andor in daily lifebull Ability to inspire friends and community to be active in mountain

sportsbull Stewardship of the environment

Arcrsquoteryx Product Development Training FundArcrsquoteryx has also graciously created a training award directed specifically at Apprentice Ski Guides who are in the process of pursuing certification The award will cover 3 days of training with a current CMSG instructor for 2 members and will also provide Arcrsquoteryx with an opportunity to connect with and gain valuable product feedback from the recipients

Digital application forms for the Arcrsquoteryx Equipment Award and Product Development Training Fund can be found in the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund Created by ACMG member Olivia Sofer in memory of her late husband Robson Gmoser this fund is intended to assist aspiring guides and instructors to obtain the mentorship that will help them succeed in their quest for certification Robson was a strong proponent of the value of mentorship in helping to develop the skills and behaviours of aspiring guides He believed that the re-lationship formed between mentor and student was absolutely the key to success

Eligibilitybull People who are currently enrolled in any part of Thompson Rivers

Universityrsquos Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (moun-tain hiking or climbing instructor programs) ndash they do not need to be ACMG members yet

bull ACMG members who are working toward progressing their cer-tification level

Selection Criteriabull Strength of applicationbull Strength of reference

Awardbull People who have engaged in a practicum opportunity may ap-

ply for reimbursement of funds to offset the mentorrsquos expenses in bringing the applicant along on the trip ndash funds are then sent to the mentor

bull People who are looking to improve their skill sets in order to progress in their certification levels may apply for funds to pay an individual instructor coach or trainer for specific trainingApplications can be found in the members section of the

ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Gmoser Mentorship Fund

There is no deadline for this application as they can be made any time of year

ACMG ScholarshipsIn addition applications for many other financial awards and funded training can be found on the member website including thebull Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for Apprentice

Guides)bull DrsquoArcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course

subsidy)bull Arcrsquoteryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies of $500 $1000

and $1500)bull Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies)

Continued on page 45

Left to right ACMG members Helen Sovdat Walter Bruns and Jasmin Caton at the 2014 Squamish rock CPD Photo - Jorg WIlz

16 17 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

THANK YOUFOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH

COMMUNITY AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY

AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS

7378 routes planned 8125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented16750 observations submitted WWWAVATECHCOM

Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted AreaBy Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass to teach the field day of an AST 1 course My group carpooled in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 15 hours while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal Canadian Army using the Howitzers

In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye-sight of the vehicles What I did not realize is that by mak-ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA) This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high-way and then wondered where we had gone

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per-mit in my truck in Revelstoke

I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and note the following bull Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highwaybull It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park

Permit while working in the National Parks bull The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a

court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine)

I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava-lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for my misconduct

Sabina Wodak an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Revelstoke BC

PROGENUINEGUIDEGEARCOM

STEPOUTSIDE

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW

EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration G3rsquos exclusive ACMG

Early Bird Pro Deal will be back this September

18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 6: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

10 11 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

I attended the IFMGA meetings in Sicily Italy in early May Technical Director Marc Picheacute was unable to be there as he was still committed in Russia To quote him ldquothe President had to attend without his security detailrdquo Over the past year the biggest issues facing the IFMGA have been the election of a new President and the move towards a double majority on voting

Incumbents Hanno Doenz from Austria and Christian Trommsdorff from France were both running for President Christian won the election He has been actively involved on the board is a dual national of France and Germany and is fluent in French German and English His platform was to commit to a mandate of inclusiveness with all of the IFMGA countries

The double majority vote was interesting In the current system each of the 23 member countries gets one vote for every 100 IFMGA Mountain Guides Canada gets two votes as we have between 100 and 200 Mountain Guides France Austria and Switzerland with well over 1000 Mountain Guides each get 12 to 13 votes There are currently a total of 71 votes This means that in the past countries like Canada the USA or New Zealand with only one or two votes would have little to no influence especially if the western European countries colluded on an issue Last fall the Swiss Guides Association

President Pierre Mathey put forward a motion that would require a double majority on voting on all issues This would mean that each country would retain its current number of votes but that a majority of member countries would also be required for motions to pass In other words a country like Canada would more or less have an equal voice to a country like Switzerland This is a big step and indicative of the com-mitment of the IFMGA towards inclusiveness The vote was almost unanimous with Spain surprisingly voting against this change (they currently have one vote) It was very encour-aging to see countries like France Switzerland Austria and Germany that hold the majority of votes support this motion

Other recent positive changes include the addition of two directors outside of the founding countries in mainland western Europe The board now includes a director from the UK (Mark Diggins) and one from Sweden (Mike Wright) Inci-dentally a double majority is what the ACMG is considering as a possible solution to the inequalities on voting for bylaw changes Currently only Mountain Guides can vote on these If a double majority was adopted all members could vote and a majority of all members plus a majority of Mountain Guides would be required More info on the IFMGA can be found at httpwwwivbvinfoenhomehtml

Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff AB

certainly be criticized for being ldquoRockies-centricrdquo In the future we would like to try again to organize MCR summaries for the Coast range and possibly a summary specific to the Interior ranges If anyone has any interest in being involved in either of those projects please get in touch with the MCR Informalex committee comm_mcracmgca

Finally thanks to the MCR Informalex committee for their work and especially Tom Wolfe for making the original email system work so smoothly all these years There are no changes planned to the current guidersquos Informalex

Larry Stanier an ACMG Mountain Guide and the MCR Infor-malex Committee Chair lives in Canmore AB

The big news in this little department is the new Mountain Conditions Report website If you havenrsquot done so (shame on you -) check it out at wwwmountainconditionscom Follow the instructions to sign up and start adding reports

I would really like to thank John Houss-er Kyle Goertzen James Bronson Jurgen

Watts and Raluca Axente from Arcrsquoteryx They have all been great to work with and have made the transition surprisingly smooth Our Technical Director Marc Picheacute did most of the initial work from the ACMGrsquos end and now it is being admin-istered by the ACMG Admin Assistant Elaine Powers I mostly just tried to stay out of their way

The MCR summaries for the Rockies and Columbia Moun-tains will continue to fill in the gap between the end and start of the Public Avalanche forecasting season These summaries can

IFMGA NewsBy Marc Ledwidge

BlackDiamondEquipmentcom

The Sharp End Shell Constructed with lightweight and durable GORE-TEXreg Pro for waterproof breathable protection

MCR Informalex Committee ReportBy Larry Stanier

Professional Practices Committee ReportBy Nathan Dahl

maintaining or enhancing the currency of onersquos knowledge in a specific area of practice The required technical skills are unique to onersquos practice and can only be adequately determined by the individual If you are uncertain whether or not a course meets the ACMG CPD requirements for your membership stream consult the Continuing Professional Development document on the ACMG member website under Governance gt CPD or send me an e-mail and we can discuss if it seems appropriate

By the time you are reading this the committee will have delivered the next round of audits to another 20 members and will be in the process of reviewing their files If you have any questions or comments about the audit process dont hesitate to get in touch with me at pro-practicesacmgca

Nathan Dahl Chair of the Professional Practices Committee is an ACMG Hiking Guide from Calgary AB

This past fall the Professional Practices Committee delivered its second audit to another 20 randomly selected members As before the selected members were asked to submit records of their professional practice and continuing professional development (CPD) for the past two years as well as a copy of their current First Aid certificate

Each file was then reviewed by two members of the Pro-fessional Practices Committee If all conditions of membership were met the member received an Unconditional Pass If one or more of the conditions of membership were not met the member received a Provisional Pass

Of the 20 members who were selected for the audit 17 passed without conditions and 3 received provisional passes As the intent of the committee is educational and corrective rather than punitive at this point no one has been asked to go inactive or resign

There are several reasons that one might not pass an au-dit Failure to provide a valid First Aid Certificate insufficient professional development insufficient professional practice or sufficient but inappropriate professional practice or professional development are all valid grounds for not passing There is also some confusion as to what can count towards CPD hours While some training is relatively straightforward (ACMG refreshers CMSG training programs Avalanche Canada courses Interpre-tive Guides Association courses) there is no single method for

12 13 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Partnership Program UpdateBy Ken Beacutelanger

News

The ACMG and its members are power-ful centres of influence in the international outdoor recreation world particularly in the winter arena The ACMG Partnership Program seeks to leverage this influence by creating partnerships with leading suppliers These partnerships involve cash products co-branding and cross-marketing to help

the ACMG reach its mandate of Protecting the Public Interest in Mountain Travel

PARTNERSHIPSPlease welcome the newest ACMG Partners

Osprey Packs Canada The best packs in the business is now a Proud Partner of the ACMG Check out their fantastic new Pro Purchase pricing for ACMG members The same company distributes Exped in Canada so there is a great new Pro Purchase there as well

adidas Sport Eyewearadidas prides itself on the highest quality optics They are

thrilled to be an ACMG Proud Partner and will sponsor the ACMG Board of Directors with eyewear Pro Purchase infor-mation is posted on the member website

G3 ndash Genuine Guide Gear G3 has increased their level of partnership support to Logan our highest category Theyrsquove committed to a fourth year of the G3 Early Bird ACMG Giveback Program watch for details this fall

Arcrsquoteryx Our 1 Partner continues to shine Together wersquove created a new Equipment Award Two ACMG recipients each year will receive $2000 in Arcrsquoteryx equipment Application details are on the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Arcrsquoteryx has generously donated 100 ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jackets to our association We have every size available except medium in both menrsquos and womenrsquos You can pur-chase one at any upcoming ACMG event (CPDs AGM etc) for only $150

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jacket

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG technical cap

The ACMG technical cap is here The Escapa hat from Arcrsquoteryx is a technical trucker hat con-structed of breathable nylon fabric with a stretch mesh back The laminated brim is pliable so it can be rolled or folded easily The reflective Arcrsquoteryx logo is offset by the stylish silk screened ACMG logo on the opposite side

Retail price on this hat is $50 + $8 silk screening + tax but thanks to our fantastic Logan ACMG Partnership with Arcrsquoteryx wersquore able to offer this for only $30 to ACMG members

Available in Nautic Grey in two sizes S-M (55-57cm) amp L-XL (58-60cm) Arcrsquoteryx hat sizing chart

Limited quantities and only available for purchase at ACMG events such as CPDs and the Annual General Meeting

inReach Canada inReach became an ACMG Columbia Partner at the beginning of the year When in the remote backcountry donrsquot just send an OK message use your device to send texts get weather forecasts and more ACMG members receive discounted pricing on com-munication plans

IntuitionRemember ACMG guests qualify for 15 off any Intuition Liner on their website using the special ACMG15 discount code Give them a call in Vancouver if you have any fitting questions ndash they

love ACMG members and guests and are always happy to help

Dynafit Dynafit is the newest ACMG Columbia Partner Our partner-ship will improve the communication between ACMG members and Dynafit North America as well as streamline the Pro Pur-chase program

EVENTS

2016 Banff Mountain Film amp Book FestivalThe ACMG will continue its sponsorship of the Best Guidebook award The ex-posure we received from our 2015 participation was sig-nificant We had a new high-profile booth location in the lobby area of the Eric Harvie (main) theatre Our logo and support was displayed at the Festival Tour in thousands of locations around North America

Arcrsquoteryx Climbing AcademyThe ACMG will have a booth and presence at the Arcrsquoteryx Climbing Academy in Squamish BC July 14-17 2016

We have many events planned for 2016 Wersquore always happy for help at any of them and Irsquoll make sure you get some swag for your efforts If you can help out please drop me a line at partnershipacmgca

I look forward to seeing you at this yearrsquos Annual General Meeting in Canmore October 15-16 All our Partners are in-vited to the Partner Expo Come check out the newest prod-ucts network directly with brands and attend custom clinics for ACMG members

The ACMGrsquos current list of Partners can be found here and on the back cover of this issue of The Arecircte

Please support our Partners as they support the ACMG

ACMG exhibitor booth Photo - Ken Beacutelanger

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

14 15 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Continuing Professional Development ReportBy Alison Dakin

News

Hello fellow members A big thumbs up for the excellent participation of our members in the various CPD workshops and presenta-tions of the past year During the 2015 CPD events in Squamish Canmore and Revelstoke almost all of the sessions had solid turnouts with many of the workshops being sold out

The big news for 2016 CPDs is the ex-pansion of the program to 3 days per event

with 3 different locales used Each year there will be a coastal interior and a Rockies event The goal is to provide opportunities for everyone to participate by rotating the season in which the events are scheduled in each area

During each 3 day event technical field courses will be bal-anced with soft skill workshops case histories and informational presentations will be linked to the popular ldquosocialrdquo event Atten-tion will be given to utilize the regionrsquos best attributes for access to rock snow ice climbing gyms flora and fauna and locally based instructors

In addition to the 3-day events we will also continue to hold several one-off sessions in different places These will include workshops for climbing gym instructors in some of our bigger city centres where these members often reside They will also in-

clude technical courses such as the ever popular ski coaching by Dave Honeyman (currently being offered in Banff Golden and Revelstoke)

One of the biggest challenges is to offer a variety of courses and workshops that are of interest and benefit for all disciplines within the ACMG membership From our recent member sur-vey we received some great feedback for new courses as well as some requests to re-do the better ones from the past If you have other suggestions for a CPD topic please let us know If you have contacts for the right skilled person to offer a workshop or presentation that is even better and can allow us to get right to the source Maybe that person is yourself (most excellent) or another member (also excellent) or perhaps you know a profes-sional from another realm who has skills and information to offer and share with our members It is this type of networking that brings the best from within our association as well as access to quality new people and ideas

Please contact me with any feedback about the CPD pro-cess at cpdacmgca Have a safe fun and rewarding summer

Alison Dakin an ACMG Ski amp Hiking Guide and the Continuing Professional Development Coordinator lives in Golden BC

ACMG Scholarship NewsBy Derek Wilding

Arcteryx Equipment Award The generous folks at Arcrsquoteryx have come through again in the form of a new award for apprentice members in the mountain stream The new Arcteryx Equipment Award will be distributed in the form of two $2000 equipment credits with Arcteryx to use towards their gear

Recipients will be selected based on the following criteria so be sure your application specifically highlights yourbull Commitment to professionalism and safety in the mountainsbull Drive to constantly push personal boundaries through adventures

activities andor in daily lifebull Ability to inspire friends and community to be active in mountain

sportsbull Stewardship of the environment

Arcrsquoteryx Product Development Training FundArcrsquoteryx has also graciously created a training award directed specifically at Apprentice Ski Guides who are in the process of pursuing certification The award will cover 3 days of training with a current CMSG instructor for 2 members and will also provide Arcrsquoteryx with an opportunity to connect with and gain valuable product feedback from the recipients

Digital application forms for the Arcrsquoteryx Equipment Award and Product Development Training Fund can be found in the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund Created by ACMG member Olivia Sofer in memory of her late husband Robson Gmoser this fund is intended to assist aspiring guides and instructors to obtain the mentorship that will help them succeed in their quest for certification Robson was a strong proponent of the value of mentorship in helping to develop the skills and behaviours of aspiring guides He believed that the re-lationship formed between mentor and student was absolutely the key to success

Eligibilitybull People who are currently enrolled in any part of Thompson Rivers

Universityrsquos Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (moun-tain hiking or climbing instructor programs) ndash they do not need to be ACMG members yet

bull ACMG members who are working toward progressing their cer-tification level

Selection Criteriabull Strength of applicationbull Strength of reference

Awardbull People who have engaged in a practicum opportunity may ap-

ply for reimbursement of funds to offset the mentorrsquos expenses in bringing the applicant along on the trip ndash funds are then sent to the mentor

bull People who are looking to improve their skill sets in order to progress in their certification levels may apply for funds to pay an individual instructor coach or trainer for specific trainingApplications can be found in the members section of the

ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Gmoser Mentorship Fund

There is no deadline for this application as they can be made any time of year

ACMG ScholarshipsIn addition applications for many other financial awards and funded training can be found on the member website including thebull Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for Apprentice

Guides)bull DrsquoArcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course

subsidy)bull Arcrsquoteryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies of $500 $1000

and $1500)bull Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies)

Continued on page 45

Left to right ACMG members Helen Sovdat Walter Bruns and Jasmin Caton at the 2014 Squamish rock CPD Photo - Jorg WIlz

16 17 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

THANK YOUFOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH

COMMUNITY AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY

AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS

7378 routes planned 8125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented16750 observations submitted WWWAVATECHCOM

Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted AreaBy Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass to teach the field day of an AST 1 course My group carpooled in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 15 hours while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal Canadian Army using the Howitzers

In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye-sight of the vehicles What I did not realize is that by mak-ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA) This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high-way and then wondered where we had gone

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per-mit in my truck in Revelstoke

I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and note the following bull Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highwaybull It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park

Permit while working in the National Parks bull The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a

court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine)

I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava-lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for my misconduct

Sabina Wodak an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Revelstoke BC

PROGENUINEGUIDEGEARCOM

STEPOUTSIDE

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW

EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration G3rsquos exclusive ACMG

Early Bird Pro Deal will be back this September

18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 7: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

12 13 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Partnership Program UpdateBy Ken Beacutelanger

News

The ACMG and its members are power-ful centres of influence in the international outdoor recreation world particularly in the winter arena The ACMG Partnership Program seeks to leverage this influence by creating partnerships with leading suppliers These partnerships involve cash products co-branding and cross-marketing to help

the ACMG reach its mandate of Protecting the Public Interest in Mountain Travel

PARTNERSHIPSPlease welcome the newest ACMG Partners

Osprey Packs Canada The best packs in the business is now a Proud Partner of the ACMG Check out their fantastic new Pro Purchase pricing for ACMG members The same company distributes Exped in Canada so there is a great new Pro Purchase there as well

adidas Sport Eyewearadidas prides itself on the highest quality optics They are

thrilled to be an ACMG Proud Partner and will sponsor the ACMG Board of Directors with eyewear Pro Purchase infor-mation is posted on the member website

G3 ndash Genuine Guide Gear G3 has increased their level of partnership support to Logan our highest category Theyrsquove committed to a fourth year of the G3 Early Bird ACMG Giveback Program watch for details this fall

Arcrsquoteryx Our 1 Partner continues to shine Together wersquove created a new Equipment Award Two ACMG recipients each year will receive $2000 in Arcrsquoteryx equipment Application details are on the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Arcrsquoteryx has generously donated 100 ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jackets to our association We have every size available except medium in both menrsquos and womenrsquos You can pur-chase one at any upcoming ACMG event (CPDs AGM etc) for only $150

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jacket

Arcrsquoteryx ACMG technical cap

The ACMG technical cap is here The Escapa hat from Arcrsquoteryx is a technical trucker hat con-structed of breathable nylon fabric with a stretch mesh back The laminated brim is pliable so it can be rolled or folded easily The reflective Arcrsquoteryx logo is offset by the stylish silk screened ACMG logo on the opposite side

Retail price on this hat is $50 + $8 silk screening + tax but thanks to our fantastic Logan ACMG Partnership with Arcrsquoteryx wersquore able to offer this for only $30 to ACMG members

Available in Nautic Grey in two sizes S-M (55-57cm) amp L-XL (58-60cm) Arcrsquoteryx hat sizing chart

Limited quantities and only available for purchase at ACMG events such as CPDs and the Annual General Meeting

inReach Canada inReach became an ACMG Columbia Partner at the beginning of the year When in the remote backcountry donrsquot just send an OK message use your device to send texts get weather forecasts and more ACMG members receive discounted pricing on com-munication plans

IntuitionRemember ACMG guests qualify for 15 off any Intuition Liner on their website using the special ACMG15 discount code Give them a call in Vancouver if you have any fitting questions ndash they

love ACMG members and guests and are always happy to help

Dynafit Dynafit is the newest ACMG Columbia Partner Our partner-ship will improve the communication between ACMG members and Dynafit North America as well as streamline the Pro Pur-chase program

EVENTS

2016 Banff Mountain Film amp Book FestivalThe ACMG will continue its sponsorship of the Best Guidebook award The ex-posure we received from our 2015 participation was sig-nificant We had a new high-profile booth location in the lobby area of the Eric Harvie (main) theatre Our logo and support was displayed at the Festival Tour in thousands of locations around North America

Arcrsquoteryx Climbing AcademyThe ACMG will have a booth and presence at the Arcrsquoteryx Climbing Academy in Squamish BC July 14-17 2016

We have many events planned for 2016 Wersquore always happy for help at any of them and Irsquoll make sure you get some swag for your efforts If you can help out please drop me a line at partnershipacmgca

I look forward to seeing you at this yearrsquos Annual General Meeting in Canmore October 15-16 All our Partners are in-vited to the Partner Expo Come check out the newest prod-ucts network directly with brands and attend custom clinics for ACMG members

The ACMGrsquos current list of Partners can be found here and on the back cover of this issue of The Arecircte

Please support our Partners as they support the ACMG

ACMG exhibitor booth Photo - Ken Beacutelanger

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

14 15 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Continuing Professional Development ReportBy Alison Dakin

News

Hello fellow members A big thumbs up for the excellent participation of our members in the various CPD workshops and presenta-tions of the past year During the 2015 CPD events in Squamish Canmore and Revelstoke almost all of the sessions had solid turnouts with many of the workshops being sold out

The big news for 2016 CPDs is the ex-pansion of the program to 3 days per event

with 3 different locales used Each year there will be a coastal interior and a Rockies event The goal is to provide opportunities for everyone to participate by rotating the season in which the events are scheduled in each area

During each 3 day event technical field courses will be bal-anced with soft skill workshops case histories and informational presentations will be linked to the popular ldquosocialrdquo event Atten-tion will be given to utilize the regionrsquos best attributes for access to rock snow ice climbing gyms flora and fauna and locally based instructors

In addition to the 3-day events we will also continue to hold several one-off sessions in different places These will include workshops for climbing gym instructors in some of our bigger city centres where these members often reside They will also in-

clude technical courses such as the ever popular ski coaching by Dave Honeyman (currently being offered in Banff Golden and Revelstoke)

One of the biggest challenges is to offer a variety of courses and workshops that are of interest and benefit for all disciplines within the ACMG membership From our recent member sur-vey we received some great feedback for new courses as well as some requests to re-do the better ones from the past If you have other suggestions for a CPD topic please let us know If you have contacts for the right skilled person to offer a workshop or presentation that is even better and can allow us to get right to the source Maybe that person is yourself (most excellent) or another member (also excellent) or perhaps you know a profes-sional from another realm who has skills and information to offer and share with our members It is this type of networking that brings the best from within our association as well as access to quality new people and ideas

Please contact me with any feedback about the CPD pro-cess at cpdacmgca Have a safe fun and rewarding summer

Alison Dakin an ACMG Ski amp Hiking Guide and the Continuing Professional Development Coordinator lives in Golden BC

ACMG Scholarship NewsBy Derek Wilding

Arcteryx Equipment Award The generous folks at Arcrsquoteryx have come through again in the form of a new award for apprentice members in the mountain stream The new Arcteryx Equipment Award will be distributed in the form of two $2000 equipment credits with Arcteryx to use towards their gear

Recipients will be selected based on the following criteria so be sure your application specifically highlights yourbull Commitment to professionalism and safety in the mountainsbull Drive to constantly push personal boundaries through adventures

activities andor in daily lifebull Ability to inspire friends and community to be active in mountain

sportsbull Stewardship of the environment

Arcrsquoteryx Product Development Training FundArcrsquoteryx has also graciously created a training award directed specifically at Apprentice Ski Guides who are in the process of pursuing certification The award will cover 3 days of training with a current CMSG instructor for 2 members and will also provide Arcrsquoteryx with an opportunity to connect with and gain valuable product feedback from the recipients

Digital application forms for the Arcrsquoteryx Equipment Award and Product Development Training Fund can be found in the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund Created by ACMG member Olivia Sofer in memory of her late husband Robson Gmoser this fund is intended to assist aspiring guides and instructors to obtain the mentorship that will help them succeed in their quest for certification Robson was a strong proponent of the value of mentorship in helping to develop the skills and behaviours of aspiring guides He believed that the re-lationship formed between mentor and student was absolutely the key to success

Eligibilitybull People who are currently enrolled in any part of Thompson Rivers

Universityrsquos Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (moun-tain hiking or climbing instructor programs) ndash they do not need to be ACMG members yet

bull ACMG members who are working toward progressing their cer-tification level

Selection Criteriabull Strength of applicationbull Strength of reference

Awardbull People who have engaged in a practicum opportunity may ap-

ply for reimbursement of funds to offset the mentorrsquos expenses in bringing the applicant along on the trip ndash funds are then sent to the mentor

bull People who are looking to improve their skill sets in order to progress in their certification levels may apply for funds to pay an individual instructor coach or trainer for specific trainingApplications can be found in the members section of the

ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Gmoser Mentorship Fund

There is no deadline for this application as they can be made any time of year

ACMG ScholarshipsIn addition applications for many other financial awards and funded training can be found on the member website including thebull Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for Apprentice

Guides)bull DrsquoArcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course

subsidy)bull Arcrsquoteryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies of $500 $1000

and $1500)bull Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies)

Continued on page 45

Left to right ACMG members Helen Sovdat Walter Bruns and Jasmin Caton at the 2014 Squamish rock CPD Photo - Jorg WIlz

16 17 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

THANK YOUFOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH

COMMUNITY AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY

AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS

7378 routes planned 8125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented16750 observations submitted WWWAVATECHCOM

Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted AreaBy Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass to teach the field day of an AST 1 course My group carpooled in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 15 hours while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal Canadian Army using the Howitzers

In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye-sight of the vehicles What I did not realize is that by mak-ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA) This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high-way and then wondered where we had gone

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per-mit in my truck in Revelstoke

I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and note the following bull Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highwaybull It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park

Permit while working in the National Parks bull The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a

court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine)

I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava-lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for my misconduct

Sabina Wodak an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Revelstoke BC

PROGENUINEGUIDEGEARCOM

STEPOUTSIDE

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW

EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration G3rsquos exclusive ACMG

Early Bird Pro Deal will be back this September

18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 8: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

14 15 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Continuing Professional Development ReportBy Alison Dakin

News

Hello fellow members A big thumbs up for the excellent participation of our members in the various CPD workshops and presenta-tions of the past year During the 2015 CPD events in Squamish Canmore and Revelstoke almost all of the sessions had solid turnouts with many of the workshops being sold out

The big news for 2016 CPDs is the ex-pansion of the program to 3 days per event

with 3 different locales used Each year there will be a coastal interior and a Rockies event The goal is to provide opportunities for everyone to participate by rotating the season in which the events are scheduled in each area

During each 3 day event technical field courses will be bal-anced with soft skill workshops case histories and informational presentations will be linked to the popular ldquosocialrdquo event Atten-tion will be given to utilize the regionrsquos best attributes for access to rock snow ice climbing gyms flora and fauna and locally based instructors

In addition to the 3-day events we will also continue to hold several one-off sessions in different places These will include workshops for climbing gym instructors in some of our bigger city centres where these members often reside They will also in-

clude technical courses such as the ever popular ski coaching by Dave Honeyman (currently being offered in Banff Golden and Revelstoke)

One of the biggest challenges is to offer a variety of courses and workshops that are of interest and benefit for all disciplines within the ACMG membership From our recent member sur-vey we received some great feedback for new courses as well as some requests to re-do the better ones from the past If you have other suggestions for a CPD topic please let us know If you have contacts for the right skilled person to offer a workshop or presentation that is even better and can allow us to get right to the source Maybe that person is yourself (most excellent) or another member (also excellent) or perhaps you know a profes-sional from another realm who has skills and information to offer and share with our members It is this type of networking that brings the best from within our association as well as access to quality new people and ideas

Please contact me with any feedback about the CPD pro-cess at cpdacmgca Have a safe fun and rewarding summer

Alison Dakin an ACMG Ski amp Hiking Guide and the Continuing Professional Development Coordinator lives in Golden BC

ACMG Scholarship NewsBy Derek Wilding

Arcteryx Equipment Award The generous folks at Arcrsquoteryx have come through again in the form of a new award for apprentice members in the mountain stream The new Arcteryx Equipment Award will be distributed in the form of two $2000 equipment credits with Arcteryx to use towards their gear

Recipients will be selected based on the following criteria so be sure your application specifically highlights yourbull Commitment to professionalism and safety in the mountainsbull Drive to constantly push personal boundaries through adventures

activities andor in daily lifebull Ability to inspire friends and community to be active in mountain

sportsbull Stewardship of the environment

Arcrsquoteryx Product Development Training FundArcrsquoteryx has also graciously created a training award directed specifically at Apprentice Ski Guides who are in the process of pursuing certification The award will cover 3 days of training with a current CMSG instructor for 2 members and will also provide Arcrsquoteryx with an opportunity to connect with and gain valuable product feedback from the recipients

Digital application forms for the Arcrsquoteryx Equipment Award and Product Development Training Fund can be found in the members section of the ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Partner Scholarships

Robson Gmoser Mentorship Fund Created by ACMG member Olivia Sofer in memory of her late husband Robson Gmoser this fund is intended to assist aspiring guides and instructors to obtain the mentorship that will help them succeed in their quest for certification Robson was a strong proponent of the value of mentorship in helping to develop the skills and behaviours of aspiring guides He believed that the re-lationship formed between mentor and student was absolutely the key to success

Eligibilitybull People who are currently enrolled in any part of Thompson Rivers

Universityrsquos Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide program (moun-tain hiking or climbing instructor programs) ndash they do not need to be ACMG members yet

bull ACMG members who are working toward progressing their cer-tification level

Selection Criteriabull Strength of applicationbull Strength of reference

Awardbull People who have engaged in a practicum opportunity may ap-

ply for reimbursement of funds to offset the mentorrsquos expenses in bringing the applicant along on the trip ndash funds are then sent to the mentor

bull People who are looking to improve their skill sets in order to progress in their certification levels may apply for funds to pay an individual instructor coach or trainer for specific trainingApplications can be found in the members section of the

ACMG website under Our Members gt Scholarships Awards gt Gmoser Mentorship Fund

There is no deadline for this application as they can be made any time of year

ACMG ScholarshipsIn addition applications for many other financial awards and funded training can be found on the member website including thebull Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for Apprentice

Guides)bull DrsquoArcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 CMSG course

subsidy)bull Arcrsquoteryx Scholarship (CMSG course subsidies of $500 $1000

and $1500)bull Gougeon Scholarship ($500 CMSG course subsidies)

Continued on page 45

Left to right ACMG members Helen Sovdat Walter Bruns and Jasmin Caton at the 2014 Squamish rock CPD Photo - Jorg WIlz

16 17 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

THANK YOUFOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH

COMMUNITY AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY

AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS

7378 routes planned 8125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented16750 observations submitted WWWAVATECHCOM

Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted AreaBy Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass to teach the field day of an AST 1 course My group carpooled in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 15 hours while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal Canadian Army using the Howitzers

In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye-sight of the vehicles What I did not realize is that by mak-ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA) This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high-way and then wondered where we had gone

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per-mit in my truck in Revelstoke

I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and note the following bull Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highwaybull It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park

Permit while working in the National Parks bull The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a

court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine)

I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava-lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for my misconduct

Sabina Wodak an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Revelstoke BC

PROGENUINEGUIDEGEARCOM

STEPOUTSIDE

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW

EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration G3rsquos exclusive ACMG

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18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

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For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

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Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 9: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

16 17 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

News

THANK YOUFOR BEING PART OF THE PROFESSIONAL AVATECH

COMMUNITY AND HELPING US BUILD A CULTURE OF SAFETY

AND CONTRIBUTION IN THE MOUNTAINS

7378 routes planned 8125 snowpits shared 50+ countries represented16750 observations submitted WWWAVATECHCOM

Violation of Glacier Park Winter Restricted AreaBy Sabina Wodak

On Tuesday February 16 2016 I was on my way to Rogers Pass to teach the field day of an AST 1 course My group carpooled in two vehicles and got stopped at Hemlock Grove for 15 hours while Parks Canada conducted avalanche control with the Royal Canadian Army using the Howitzers

In order to avoid wasting precious time I decided to teach the companion rescue portion of the course in the Hemlock Grove parking area as we would be within eye-sight of the vehicles What I did not realize is that by mak-ing this decision to step off the highway (although we were still on pavement) is in violation of the Winter Restricted Area (WRA) This caused the Parks Canada Avalanche Safety Team stress as they saw our ski tracks leading off the high-way and then wondered where we had gone

Being in violation of the WRA I was required to talk with the Park Warden (Sharon Woods) where I made my second mistake of the day - leaving my ACMG license and Park per-mit in my truck in Revelstoke

I would like to remind everyone to not be like me and note the following bull Winter Restricted Areas begin at the edge of the highwaybull It is required at all times to carry your ACMG license and Park

Permit while working in the National Parks bull The consequences of violating the rules is a $115 fine or a

court appearance (which could result in a much higher fine)

I would like to sincerely apologize to Parks Canada (Ava-lanche Safety Staff) and to my fellow ACMG members for my misconduct

Sabina Wodak an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Revelstoke BC

PROGENUINEGUIDEGEARCOM

STEPOUTSIDE

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW

EXCEED EXPECTATIONS

Gear up for another inspiring winter of backcountry exploration G3rsquos exclusive ACMG

Early Bird Pro Deal will be back this September

18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 10: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

18 19 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

ACMG Member Profile - Derek Wilding

In this issue we profile the ACMGrsquos Director of Specialty Guides - Derek Wilding who is an ACMG Rock Guide Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 CMSG instructorexaminer Chair of the ACMG Scholarship committee and past recipient of the ACMG Presidentrsquos Award

Where did your love of the mountains come from

Growing up in Calgary the mountains were never far from home I grew up skiing at the Alberta resorts on the week-ends and got into climbing at age 11 when a childhood friendrsquos older sibling took us out to Wasootch Slabs for a day Throughout my teen years I spent every opportunity I had in the mountains often skipping school and hitchhik-ing out from Calgary to catch a powder day or a chinook until I was old enough to drive

What was the inspiration that drove you to become a guide and instructor

I was fortunate to have ACMG members like Mark Whalen Matt Lunny and Chris Robertson as instructors early on ndash these guys were making a living climbing instructing and guiding and provided both insight into the industry and initial inspiration to pursue a career as an instructor and guide Later on while going through University others like Brian Spear Todd Guyn and Chris Miller continued to motivate and mentor me towards certification

ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3 Examiner Derek Wilding Photo - Neal Finney

How would describe your experience going through the exam process

The exam process was both challenging and rewarding Like most CMSG students Irsquod invested a lot of time and money preparing for courses and exams so there was a lot of pressure to succeed I found the exam process stressful and at times a little frustrating but I also took a lot away from the instruc-tors and examiners and in retrospect found the experience to be invaluable

What jobs roles positions have you had over the years related to the outdoors

Irsquove worked in a variety of roles since becoming an ACMG member Some of the highlights include Alberta Parks Pub-lic Safety Climbing Director at Mount Royal University and more recently The Glencoe Club Instructor and Examiner for the CMSG Climbing Instructor and Rock Programs Contract Consultant for new climbing gyms throughout Canada Lectur-er for Mount Royal University and Thompson Rivers University Subject Matter Expert and Independent Guide to name a few

What is your most memorable guidinginstructional experience

Irsquove had the pleasure of instructing many first time climb-ers over the years but one of my most memorable expe-riences was teaching a blind student to sport climb a few

AP_Montebianco_46x75_inchesindd 1 20052016 144851

years back Over a period of several weeks she went from having never climbed before to completing a 58 lead climb including the anchor threadclean with only minimal verbal movement coaching I was really impressed by her determi-nation and also found it to be hugely rewarding as initially Irsquod completely written off the idea of her lead climbing

What else should the readers know that you havenrsquot told us

I currently serve the ACMG as the Specialty Guide Director on the Board and am always keen to hear from the membership If you have questions comments or concerns specific to the As-sociation donrsquot hesitate to reach out I also chair the ACMG Awards Committee ndash consider this a reminder to get your ap-plications in so our funds scholarships and supporter awards can help you in your pursuit of further certification

What does the future hold in store for you

It really depends what direction Climbing takes in the com-ing year Therersquos been huge growth in the sport over the past decade and therersquos now a solid bid to include it in the Tokyo 2020 games which could reshape the industry as we currently know it Regardless of where the sport goes I plan to be active in the industry in some way shape or form Irsquom fortunate to have a career in a field that Irsquom passionate about so it rarely feels like work and Irsquom hoping to maintain that feeling for as long as I can

7-14 x 4-38

NEW SERIES

KAMBERKRESTAAccess all areasOspreyrsquos tried-and-true backcountry organization and carrying features learned from a long history of designing and using ski packs now offered with a gender-specific design and fit ospreypackscom

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 11: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

20 21 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

New Ontario Rock Guidebooks from ACMG Member Justin Dwyer

By Jeremy McDougall

Justin Dwyer is an ACMG Apprentice Rock Guide and Climb-ing Gym Instructor 3 from Southern Ontario He also works as the General Manager at the Rock Oasis Climbing Gym in Ajax Ontario

He has been climbing and documenting routes on the Niagara Escarpment for 15 years and takes an obsessively detailed-orientated approach to guidebook reading and collecting Over the years he was given the prestigious title of Captain Nemo by prolific Ontario guidebook author David Smart due to the fact that has climbed over 65 of the 300+ routes at that cliff But really his level of comple-tionism extends far beyond to almost every crag He is the undisputed master of the Escarpmentrsquos weird esoteric and obscure

Justin has helped to mould most of us in Ontario into great instructors Recently he has co-authored voumes 1 amp 2 of The Ontario Climbing guidebook with Gus Alexandropoulos Jus-tin continues to volunteer for community events to help grow the climbing community and safety awareness He has started a Facebook page for Eastern Canada ACMG Members along with and Jonathan Oldenburger (CGI 1) and is someone that a lot of us in Ontario look up to

Here is what Justin and Alex had to say about the new guidebooks

ldquoSplitting the guidebooks into two volumes came with all kinds of little wins that go beyond just achieving an ear-lier completion date With the single comprehensive book we were constantly worried about the books overall size and were always trying to find ways to minimize the page count After all no one is psyched to carry a 400-page book for a half-day of cragging But by splitting the book we were also able to give the layout some breathing room Or to reference the classic Step Brothers scene some ldquoactivity spacerdquo That space has transformed the book into something larger than just a phone book of routes The quotes stories little jokes climber bios old photos charming diagrams all help create a richer experience Its a way for climbers to connect with the areas history and culturerdquo

Ontario Climbing Vol 1 is currently for sale at most Southern Ontario climbing gyms and retailers and online through MEC for $28 Vol 2 is still nearing completing but watch for it soon

Jeremy McDougall is an ACMG Climbing Gym Instructor 2 and the Asssistant Manager at True North Climbing in Toronto ON

Photo Tim Kemple

TNF_ACMG_SUMMER_2016_NSE_COLORindd 1 53016 1104 AM

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

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For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

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48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 12: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

22 23 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Spotlight on ACMG Members

The late Guy Edwards nearing the top of Skywalk ED1 59 on Mt Tiedemann with Mt Waddington behind Photo - Jia CondonAurora Borealis over the North Saskatchewan River Photo - Maarten Van Haeren

John Wilson bouldering on Breaking Bad (V2) at Rockbound Lake Banff AB Photo - Lloyd King ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis on A Particular Manner of Expression (12a) Ha Ling Peak Photo - Gery Unterasinger

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

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wka

lice

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34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

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tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 13: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

24 25 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesSteep and Stinky

A Last Minute Adventure to the Lofoten Islands of Northern NorwayBy Cam McLellan

Cam McLellan enjoying the Southwest Couloir on Sebortinden Lofoten Norway Photo - Laura Kroesen

Itrsquos hard to even think of where this story should begin This past winter (for myself and my girlfriend Laura Kroesen) was one that will go down in the books as being the wildest adventure of my career The season started off in Canada by enjoying the usual goods just down the road at whatever venue looked the most promising at the time with the odd work commitment here and there Definitely what one would call a ldquotypicalrdquo No-vember As the month drew to a close we began preparations for our trip to Japan Leaving in the middle of December we were off to the mythical land of nose deep cold smoke the freshest of sushi one could find and a cultural experience to beat them all To say only that it was amazing is almost an insult However that was just a lead in of what was to comehellip

By the time Mid-February rolled around work was coming to a close and thoughts of heading home began to depressingly fill our heads Bitten ever so fiercely by the travel bug Laura and I began day dreaming of new winter places and what next season could possibly bring Europe Russia Chile Just about every imaginable locale where one could make 2x4s slide came up All of this excitement lead to a flurry of ldquocold-callrdquo style emails with ldquoNext Winterrdquo in the subject line Putting our hopes on the back burner and watching the day dreams fade away we accepted the fact that home was in the near future and wersquod ldquosomedayrdquo get to see these other destinations Then a few days later literally out of the blue we got a response from the unlikeliest of places

ldquoWell I canrsquot really say much about next winter but if you are free this year Irsquod definitely have some work for yourdquo

- Seth Hobby Northern Alpine Guides Kabelvag Norway

Laura and I were in shock How on earth did this hap-pen I mean next year would have been great but this year Luck was clearly on our side Once the excitement wore off we packed our bags bought plane tickets and took off for the Arctic Circle

Norway was everything we expected and more Upon arrival we were treated to extremely friendly people vast and drastically beautiful mountains that rose up straight out of the ocean lofty summits and steep lines as far as the eye could see Also to one of the worst smells I have ever had the pleasure of knowing We just so happened to arrive right as peak cod fishing season was starting This is an industry Irsquom very jealous of as over the course of three months every season local fishermen make a few million bucks and get the rest of the year off Once Laura and I had adjusted to the time difference and uniquely different smells we were off to the races

Our home for the next two months Kabelvag Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

The office Northern Alpine Guidersquos Base at Lofoten Ski Lodge in Kallee Norway Photo - Cam McLellan

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 14: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

26 27 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Laura Kroesen about to jump the ice bulge on the lower section of the Presten Couloir Photo - Cam McLellan

A few guests enjoying tremendous views from the summit of Geitgallien Photo - Cam McLellan

hellipand of course everyonersquos favourite part of Norwayhellip The Torsk (cod) Photo - Laura Kroesen

Work started at Northern Alpine Guides almost im-mediately after we arrived and the next two months that followed were the best days on the job Irsquove ever had Ev-erything from seaside touring in mellow alpine bowls to guiding steep couloirs encased in granite walls overlooking the fjords were on the menu I even got the opportunity to make a few ascents of one of the larger peaks in the area - Geitgallien (1085m) Every line peak and ski touring venue had it all - beautiful alpine terrain starting almost right from the car majestic blue ocean all around and more often than not some of the most incredible views on the face of the earth

Without question those two months spent in Norway went by way to quickly if you ask me It is a skierrsquos paradise and I will go back That is most definitely a guarantee For more information on this incredible place check out the fol-lowing links

wwwlofotenskilodgecom - accommodation and base of winter operations for Northern Alpine Guides

wwwalpineguidesno - Northern Alpine Guides websiteInstagram - camskiguide ndash My Instagram account with

substantial shameless self-promotion and an abundance of more stories and photographs from Lofoten

Cam McLellan is an ACMG Ski Guide and lives in Invermere BC

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 15: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

28 29 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Guides at Play Selkirks Ski Traverse 2016Story and Photos by Sam McKoy

Douglas Noblet skiing down the Sir Sanford Glacier on the way to the Great Cairn hut

As I understand it ACMG guides are team players For example Ski Guides work in teams and communicate be-tween operations with the InfoEx There is a vibrant com-munity with lots of members and support is evident when reading a few of the discussions on the Informalex threads So why is it that I often hear of horror stories about a group of guides ski touring together Something about too many chiefs

This spring a group of us set out to complete a ski tra-verse of the complete Selkirk Range three Apprentice Ski Guides a ski patrollersearch and rescue volunteer and a park ranger Would too many cooks really spoil the broth Our trip would entail over 500 kilometers of travel rugged terrain and over 40000 meters of elevation gain We es-timated 6-8 weeks and ended up completing it in 5 a full week ahead of our fastest estimate So what happened Short of being full of ourselves and attributing the speed to some amazing physical strength or being modest and crediting the good weather and an overestimation I be-lieve the answer lies mostly elsewhere

First let me describe the traverse In the beginning there

was snow We skirted through the steep forested peaks south of Nelson and were quickly surrounded by the prominent ca-thedral like mountains south of Trout Lake Large climbs steep cols digging through cornices and all the while very firm crusty snow conditions As we moved north of Trout Lake somewhere Mother Nature turned the weather switch to ldquosummerrdquo We were walking only at night in isothermal snow The world would start falling down promptly on east faces as people started their workday in the city We peeked over the large glaciers south of Revelstoke with only a few whiteouts

As we worked north to Mica Dam we noticed the valleys were broader deeper and less accommodating The term lsquoski traversersquo seemed misplaced as we hiked with skis on our backs forded large rivers and dealt with bush with tears of laughter and pain mixed with sweat All the while we skied some amazing terrain that we Canadian professionals are lucky enough to work in Unfortunately we were skiing them with snow that felt like itrsquod chatter every screw out of your bindings

So what attributed to this triprsquos smooth sailings Well many things to be sure This mountain community of ours has been

Mark Grist edging his way across Mountain Creek in full flood

Mark and Douglas with Sir Sanford in the background

On the Adamant Glacier

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 16: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

30 31 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuressupportive throughout Various individuals have been amazing to us as wersquove had our food drops delivered and our group re-ceived by various ski touring lodges along the way That is no small contribution However the more I reflect the more Irsquove come to appreciate how effectively and smoothly things went every step of the way - broken skis bindings and all There was some amazing teamwork on a day by day basis There were only a few times the team became divided and we quickly came back together through a little communication The tougher the situ-ation the more it brought us together and the more we laughed and smiled Not because we love pain and hardship but because we all understood the value of smiling in the face of adversity and uncertainty

As a group of professionals all of us have been trained in one way or another to endure the trials the mountains might present us When tested we all came forth and ap-plied our various deep pools of experience When someone other than myself was out in front breaking trail and navi-gating the unknown terrain I could always depend on that individual to get me to the right place without wasting my energy

As traverses often do they force you to stick your neck out a little more than you might normally like I knew that I could trust everyone to be there for me should things go wrong Everyone was capable everyone was dependable and everyone was out there for one main reason a true love and passion for the mountains Why else take a vacation from mountain workhellip in the mountains

Itrsquos amazing what you can do when you grab a bunch of professionals and head into the mountains to play I personally feel incredibly fortunate to be part of this com-munity and to experience a trip with such competent and amazing individuals

Was our trip successful Absolutely Because we accom-plished our goal quickly No Itrsquos easy enough to judge the success of the trip by the amount we laughed and enjoyed ourselves

ACMG members that underwent this traverse include Apprentice Ski Guides Stephen Senecal Sam McKoy and Madeleine Martin-Preney (also an Assistant Hiking Guide) Other members include Mark Grist and Douglas Noblet In addition to supporting ACMG members through a pro purchase program this expedition was supported in part by MEC

Sam McKoy is an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide from Pemberton BC

Mark and Madeleine bootpacking above the Fairy Meadows cabin

Madeleine navigating on the Sir Sanford GlacierThe group finished in Revelstoke

Left to right Mark Steve Madeleine Douglas and Sam

In a whiteout on the way to climb Iconoclast

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 17: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

32 33 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

Canadian Climbing Championships ndash Canmore ABBy Scott McKay

The sport of climbing has changed significantly over the past number of years Climbing gyms speed climbing bouldering are now subsets of what we all call ldquoclimbingrdquo

On May 28 amp 29 Elevation Place in Canmore hosted the National Climbing Championships The volunteer belayers were almost exclusively members of the ACMG most of whom had never been to a climbing competition before let alone be-layed at a national event

As the competition went on it was clear that both groups were impressed by each other The competitors received excel-lent belays and got to know a group of climbers who they other-wise might not cross paths with The belayers found themselves excited about competitive climbing something that may have once seemed like a foreign concept

As our sport continues to grow and evolve we as an asso-

ciation should prepare ourselves to do the same Given that the sport is on a path that will likely see it included in the 2020 Olympics the pace of evolution is sure to quicken

A big thanks goes out to all the following ACMG members who volunteered their time to train for and belay at the comp An-drew McVey Andrew Karlowsky Brodie Parker Chris Adshade Darren Vonk Graham Suffield Grant Statham Jen Pierce Jon Kramer Jordy Shepherd Jun Pan Lenora Carbonetto Matt Krahn Mike Shaw Morgan Fines Nick Baggaley Nicolas Bus-sieres Phil Wilhelm Will Neufeld and Tadashi Fukada

Scott McKay an Apprentice Alpine Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor Level 3 is the Elevation Place Climbing Gym Supervisor from Canmore AB

One of Canadarsquos best female climbers going for gold during the open finals Photo ndash Evgenii Kozhushko CGI 2

Inset ACMG Members Graham Suffield (left) and Nicolas Bussieres (centre) volunteer belaying Photo ndash Shane Murdoch

Phot

o copy

ww

wka

lice

fr

Your very own personal belay assistant

GRIGRI 2

The GRIGRI 2 is the gold standard for assisted braking belay devices Compact and lightweight it works with single dynamic ropes from 89 to 11mm Its unique design also provides excellent control while lowering wwwpetzlcom

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 18: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

34 35 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Featuresof hyperthermia is birth defects Because pregnant women have high fluid demands it is also important to keep well hy-drated Usually women tolerate hypoxia (low oxygen levels) while pregnant up to elevations of 3000m but acclimatizing before strenuous activity is recommended4

Thompson Rivers University cautions women about ex-posure to noise such as helicopters which I really hadnrsquot con-sidered By 20 weeks the fetusrsquo auditory structure is complete and by 24 weeks is reacting to sound Extended exposure to decibels greater than 85 while pregnant is associated with hearing loss later on in life for the child A helicopter is 81-100dB5 TRU and the ACMG also mention vibration as a risk but I couldnrsquot find studies associated with that

Pregnancy in itself can be life threatening for some women Gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia risk of uterine rupture or placenta abruptio and miscarriage in the third trimester are medical emergencies Miscarriage in the 1st or 2nd trimester rarely results in life threatening complications It is important to note that before 24-25 weeks gestation if the fetus miscar-ries it has no viable chance to survive even in an urban setting After 25 weeks many doctors caution women from going to remote settings because if they do deliver prematurely the baby would potentially be viable High risk pregnancies are a very different category than low risk and could be compared to guiding with a major heart condition

I hope that this article helps people who are plan-ning on having some little mountain humans I think in the end there are real benefits to continuing doing what you love to do even at a high level Conversely there are unique risks to pregnancy It is a highly personal decision either way Good Luck If anyone has questions or would like to see more information please email me at renner-skigmailcom

Natalie Renner an ACMG Ski Guide lives in Golden BC

1 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

2 wwwscc-csclexumcomscc-cscscc-cscenitem1716indexdo

3 wwwobesitynetworkcafilesguidelinespdf

4 wwwbmjcomrapid-response20111103pregnancy-and-high-altitude

5 wwwoemmsueduuserfilesfileNewsHv6n3pdf

Guiding Exams and Pregnancy - Some Science to Answer Questions

By Natalie Renner

Reviewed by Genevieve Eastabrook MD Associate Professor and ScientistUniversity of Western Ontario

I recently found myself interested in the physiology and policy surrounding guiding while pregnant My interest came about because planning pregnancy around exams can really alter the career path of female guides I decided to do some research for women who are in that position

The official policy of the ACMG and the Thompson Rivers University Canadian Mountain amp Ski Guide Program (TRU) is that if a pregnant woman is fit and can safely work in a hazard-ous mountain environment then she can guide and take exams They would prefer that the candidate confer with a specialist physician who is familiar with the risks involved The policy is available on request from the ACMG and TRU has added a section which states that for exams with a risk of falling they reserve the right to inform the pregnant candidatersquos physician of the risks

Many people would think that the high perfor-mance hazardous environ-ment of a guide exam is no place for a pregnant woman But to deny someone access to the exam because they are preg-nant is against their human rights It is discrimination based on family status Some might also say that the danger to the fe-tus is so great that the risk shouldnrsquot be taken Even if that were the case in Canada a fetus has no rights What that means is that the fetus and the mother are not potential legal adversar-ies This comes from a 1999 Supreme Court ruling that came about from a child suing their mother because of injuries they sustained while a fetus in a car crash that the mother was at fault for1 So what does that have to do with exams In short a doctor canrsquot restrict you from an exam based on concerns for fetal health

Are there benefits to high levels of activity while being preg-nant For low risk women - YES Luckily new studies have

been undertaken to help understand exercise and pregnancy ldquoThe health benefits of physical activity or exercise during preg-nancy include the possible prevention of gestational diabetes pre-eclampsia and chronic musculoskeletal conditions and the support of healthy weight and improved mental healthrdquo2

Another study found that in women with a high level of fitness active labour was shorter there were fewer C-sections and less acute fetal stress What sets new stud-ies apart from older ones is that some of them are looking at high level ath-letes ldquoFor very fit medi-cally pre-screened pregnant women the current target heart rate zones may not be appropriate and thus target heart rate zones validated on pregnant women of dif-ferent fitness levels are also available For lowndashrisk fit pregnant women 20 to 29 years old the target heart rate zone is 145ndash160 bpm For low-risk fit pregnant women aged 30 to 39 a zone of 140ndash156 bpm may be more appropriaterdquo3 Those limits are actually pretty high

What those studies also state is that a pregnant wom-an should stay at 60-80 of her max heart rate Can she still achieve the objective Reasonable accommodation would be the principle in play there

While the legal side gives unalienable rights for pregnant ladies to access the same opportunities as everyone else what are the risks for concerned mothers to be Falls are undoubt-edly a hazard for all candidates Depending on trimester significant changes in centre of balance can create increased chances of falls Ligament laxity could be an issue as oestro-gen and relaxin hormones soften connective tissue in the body A lowered immunity may predispose pregnant women to gas-troenteritis from untreated water Hyperthermia (heat injury) is a huge risk if body temperatures greater than 389degC are achieved for long periods of time One of the complications

ACMG Ski Guide Natalie Renner looking for answers Photo - Kobi Wyss

adidascomeyewear

tycane pro outdoor BUILTTO FACE

ANYTHING

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 19: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

36 37 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

FeaturesBackcountry Food that Rivals the Scenery

Story and Photos by Brent Peters amp Kendra Stritch

How many times have you shown up at a hut or campsite and opened your backpack to find that the amazing food you packed was crushed crumbled or trending towards rotten Even with the right food the limitations of cook-ware can make preparation a challenge

Food touches all of the senses We see taste smell feel and hear as we eat1 which makes it a large part of our daily experi-ence even in the backcountry After research years of personal trips and guiding and a lot of experimentation at home we are happy to share some knowledge with you on how to make your backcountry food just about as good as the scenery

Food preservation enabled ancient man to live in one place and form community2 From the moment food is harvested it begins to spoil It is astonishing how creative we have been at keeping food edible from season to season hunt to hunt dry-ing cellaring fermenting curing pickling freezing canning and freeze drying To optimize our backcountry food it is im-portant to understand the pros and cons of a few main methods of food preservation

FRESH FOOD engages our senses the most In this age of glo-balism chefs source fresh food daily from around the globe to prepare the tastiest meals In the backcountry fresh food is often a luxury when ease of access permits Hard cheeses and cured meats travel well and take longer to spoil Grated parmesan will last and give your dinners flavour and calories Freezing meat is a great way to preserve it for the first day

When to Use fly-in trips winter the first day or two of hut trips or car camping

Advantages pleases the senses

Disadvantages heavy doesnrsquot compact well spoils requires more utensils amp potspans

Favourites Pork Chops Hard Cheeses

DEHYDRATED FOOD made by hot-air dehydration dates back to France around 1795 and is one of the oldest methods of food preservation3 Prehistoric peoples dried seeds North American Aboriginals dehydrated meats and fruits the Chinese dried eggs and the Japanese dried fish and rice Modern dehy-dration centres around the advantage of compactness Moisture is removed by circulating warm air between 130-140F around the food removing the active water and on average 93 of the bulk of the original product Rehydration does take a minimum of 20 minutes and is best accomplished by bringing the product to a boil twice or simmering during the rehydration process Rehydrate as long as possible If you are in a hut rehydrate breakfast overnight rehydrate dinner throughout the day De-hydrated meats go rancid after 3-6 weeks Refrigerate dry meat short term and freeze long term (up to a year)

When to Use long hut trips

Advantages light compact will last months (meat) to years (vegetable) retains texture

Disadvantages takes time to rehydrate no cheeses or creams need pots

Favourites Fruit Breads amp Cakes Shredded Pork

Colourful fresh food is appealing to the eyes even before the flavours hit your taste buds

FREEZE DRIED FOOD is made by the process of lyophilisa-tion which was developed in the early 1900rsquos in France4 Dur-ing WWII freeze drying developed as a method of transporting blood serum This process was quickly applied to many other products including pharmaceuticals and biologicals

In this method the product is prepared frozen placed in a vacuum and heated This first freezes and then sublimates the water out of the food Freeze dried food is up to 4 larger than the original product depending on the original water content because the food is preserved in its frozen state As the ice crys-tals form they create microscopic pores in the cell walls allow-ing for ease of rehydration but compromising texture Freeze dried food can be easily rehydrated in the bag reducing cleanup

When to Use fast amp light when water and fuel resources are scarce such as alpine or altitude

Advantages very light all types of food including cheeses and creams very long shelf life rehydrates quickly rehydrates in a bag

Disadvantages not compact loses texture

Favourites Creamy Dishes amp Eggs

Tipsbull Bring spices fresh if you can Fresh herbs or pepper sprinkled on

top of your favourite dehydrated or freeze-dried meal will give it the final touch A staple in our kitchen kit is the ldquoSodial push pepper millrdquo from amazonca

bull Plan ahead During the weeks leading up to your trip you can make meals nightly and dehydrate the left overs We have used the Nesco Gardenmaster (most easily purchased from LondonDrugscom) in a 24-7 application for up to 2 years

bull For vegan solutions consider chick peas beans and dry TVP The Nutterrsquos in Canmore Alberta has TVP from Bobrsquos Red Mill

Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide operating Peak Eats with Kendra Stritch in Canmore AB

1 Understanding Ingredients for the Canadian Baker BC Cook Articulation Committee BC Open Textbook Project2 Historical Origins of Food Preservation Brian A Nummer PhD National Center for Home Food Preservation May 2002 3 Dehydration Encyclopaedia Brittanica4 Freeze-drying Wikipedia

Fresh Dehydrated Freeze DriedCar Camping First Week Long Trips Long Trips

Hut Based Day 1 amp Cured Eggs

Camping Day 1 amp Cured

Backpacking Day 1 amp Cured Eggs amp Cheese

Fast amp LIght Cured

Altitude

An organized food packout makes life easy on the trail

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 20: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

38 39 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Features

A Brief History of Derriegravere CragBy Murray Toft

Editorrsquos Note ndash I stumbled upon the above picture of this unmistak-able orange hanger while checking out the Rockies Obscure website and said ldquoI recognize thatrdquo It was from a crag where we taught multipitch courses when I worked at the U of C Outdoor Cen-tre The websitersquos author called the crag ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo and seemed to know nothing about its history so I asked the ever knowl-edgeable Murray Toft for some background

In the mid-80rsquos Bill March Rusty Baillie and I went off in search of an easily accessed low-level crag in the Kananaskis We need-ed to find a site where students in the then Outdoor Pursuits Program at the University of Calgary could realistically work on their rock climbing skills We hoped to find a cliff that would offer controlled multi-pitch options requiring at least one belay and rappel changeover

A cliff opposite the Galatea trailhead looked promising but turned out to be a longer approach than we hoped for and was too much of the real deal It was steep enough that none of us felt comfortable soloing on it ndash what we hoped to be able to do in order to check on studentsrsquo systems

As the day closed in we were feeling a bit dejected with our efforts and headed for home As we rounded a corner on the Kananaskis highway not far north from the false start of the Galatea option I spotted an edge poking out of the trees A half hour later we were at the bottom of our find a compact buttress about 50 meters wide by the same high It leaned back to a reasonable angle was covered with features and had some qual-ity cracks Surprisingly the rock was pretty good The top edge

was positive with a good ledge to comfortably handle a small group and a steep back wall to provide anchors for descend-ing It was a perfect find On the way back to the university we chatted excitedly about how we should work it

Over the next few weeks Rusty and I returned with an assortment of cabled nuts pitons and 38rdquo self-drive bolts (the era before Hilti and Bosch) to ldquoinstallrdquo the cliff Our notion was to create three short 2-pitch routes across the cliff with crux moves protected with fixed gear We needed to handle four rope teams on different lines Students could add more clean pro to their liking Rusty decided on a colour-coding scheme with painted placements and anchors to keep students on route He went so far as to invent a two-page guidebook in order that students could correlate descriptive climbing jargon to actual rock features The overall nature of the cliff and the moderate standard allowed us to solo around freely in order to easily coach our students

All that remained was to give it a name Since it was just behind (south of ) the already popular Barrier Crag the name ldquoDerriegravererdquo was the obvious choice

Murray Toft is a retired ACMG Mountain Guide living in Gold-en BC

See the details of what appear to now be 7 routes at this ldquoAntiques Roadshowrdquo at wwwrockiesobscurecomantiques-roadshow - Ed

Image and photo from wwwrockiesobscurecom

Phot

o M

ark

Fis

her

Fis

her

Cre

ativ

eA

thle

te

Cod

y B

arnhill

TUumlV CERTIFIED ndash EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS

RADICAL2

WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTSreg INCORPORATED BY SCARPA FISCHER SCOTT ROXA HAGAN MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT

20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_finalindd 1 140915 0831

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 21: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

40 41 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Osprey Kamber 42 Ski Pack ReviewBy Ken Beacutelanger

OverviewOsprey Packs are born and bred in the Colorado Rockies We have recently signed a fantastic new ACMG Proud Partnership with their Canadian distributor so now their packs are easily available to all ACMG members shipped from their Canadian warehouse at awesome Pro Purchase pricing As always details are found on the ACMG Pro Purchase page of the member site

Model testedNew for winter 2016-17 are the Kamber (menrsquos) and Kresta (womenrsquos) models available in 20 litre (22 L men) 30 L (32 L men) and 40 L (42 L men) volumes ABS Vario compatibility is available if yoursquod like an airbag The Kamber and Kresta re-place the non-gender specific Kobe model I used the Kamber 42 (non ABS) for a week of guiding at Sorcerer Lodge and a few assorted Rockies ski mountaineering days in late April

FitTruly a comfortable pack even once loaded with a rope harness crevasse rescue gear ice axe avalanche equipment and all the other usual accoutrements in a Guidersquos pack Adjustment and fit was easy with the plethora of straps More on those later but they certainly allowed me to easily dial in tension and bal-ance depending on the load and terrain through which we were travelling

PocketingIrsquom choosy with ski packs Unlike alpine packs I prefer my ski pack to have multiple and well-thought pockets Ski touring requires specific equipment I need to easily and quickly access and then put away I find a good organisation system critical to not wasting time and energy digging through gear to find my thermometer thermos goggles or whatever The Kamber fits this bill nicely with its multiple pockets and sleeves

The large avalanche gear pocket swallows my oversized Black Diamond Evac 7 shovel G3 carbon probe and wood saw with room for a few other things too It has an additional red third zipper pull that supposedly allows quick access without opening the lid but that wouldnrsquot really work if your shovel handle andor probe are sleeved Irsquod like to see one more sleeve for a total of three (shovel handle probe saw) in the avy pocket

The removable lid has three large pockets 2 on top and 1 on the inside The top pockets have fleece lining for your eyewear There is a volume adjusting strap on the inside which I found superfluous and never used It also has a tuck away helmet car-rier that can be deployed in an upper or lower configuration Like free Wi-Fi at hotels I think helmet carriers should be a mandatory feature on ski packs

However that same lid has an annoying habit of loosening and sliding downward on its straps This makes it flop around with even a small amount of items It seems the buckles that attach it to the pack donrsquot have enough friction I solved this by wrapping duct tape around them to fix their position If you

Image ndash wwwbackcountrygearcom

think the lid has two pockets too many you can remove it and use the ingenious flap to close the top of your pack from the elements

The comfortable moulded hipbelt has a zippered pocket on each side for sunscreen lip balm a few snacks compass and inReach device I liked the forward pull to tighten feature ndash cinching it was much easier than a corset

Straps attachments and accessThere are multiple straps on this pack prob-ably too many for my tastes But Osprey is making a pack to appeal to all sorts of backcountry users whether on two planks or one The carrying options are numerous diagonal A-frame vertical horizontal or maybe a combo of any The buckles are large and easy to use with gloves

The ice axe bottom loops (2) are old school simple webbing loops I find my tool flops around too much on these so I twist it numerous times before clipping in the shaft

In addition to the top loading access you can unclip the shoulder stays and zip open the back panel This is great when you donrsquot want to puke your pack for something on the bottom (1st Aid kit or whatever) or if your skisboard are attached

The top haul loop is large stiff and easy to grab and clip to anchors Nice work here You can route your hydration hose through the right hand shoulder strap to reduce freez-ing incidents

Perhaps because my pack is a pre-pro-duction model it lacked a whistle built into the sternum buckle I expect a whistle will be standard on the production version

WeightWith all of these features this isnrsquot the light-est pack on the market I weighed it at 1890 grams which seems to be in the range of other full-featured ski packs

ConclusionThe Kamber 42 is an excellent pack for ski touring and ski-mountaineering when you need to carry a great deal of gear This is the first Osprey pack Irsquove used and their thoughtful at-tention to detail is evident everywhere

Ken Beacutelanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore AB and outdoor offices all over the world

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 22: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

42 43 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Technical

Arcrsquoteryx Acrux SL Menrsquos Approach Shoe ReviewBy Adam Burrell

OverviewArcrsquoteryx came out with their initial lineup of footwear in

2015 and have added a few more models this year Like all things Arcrsquoteryx they chose to look at footwear construction a little differently ndash every shoe and boot is usually constructed with a laminated seamless one-piece upper which surrounds a separate internal liner With the Acrux SL Arcrsquoteryx has lami-nated these two components to provide the benefits of both in a substantially lighter package

BackgroundI received a pair of the Acrux SL approach shoes a month

ago and have worn them almost every day since then in condi-tions ranging from dry hot and dusty to wet and muddy to mid-fifth class rockclimbs

ComfortThe first thing yoursquoll notice when you try them on apart

from the flashy colours is that they seem quite tight and dif-ficult to put on not unlike rock shoes There are loops on the front and back to aid the process The liner does stretch and I found that after about three or four days they were much easier to put on These are the first shoes Irsquove owned in a long time that actually have a break-in period

Once you do get them on they fit well Really well With

the adaptive fit of the liner there seems to be no extra space inside yet the toebox is roomy enough that toes donrsquot feel squished When rock hopping and slab climbing the shoes feel predictable without any extra movement inside On downhills my foot was held in place and I didnrsquot notice any toebang as I often do in approach shoes

BreathabilityWaterproofnessThese shoes are way more breathable than they seem at first glance I was a bit worried on a couple of hot 30 degree days but my feet were very happy Along the sides of the upper mate-rial are a couple of venting panels that work really well with the liner allowing airflow while not letting dust or dirt to get inside I was surprised at this as well without a tongue I expected bits of rock and dirt to work themselves inside but the snug fit keeps everything out

I was even more surprised the next week when I stood in the rain for most of the day and my feet didnrsquot get wethellip The nylon upper is highly water resistant if not waterproof and the liner didnrsquot seem to absorb any water either This is likely due to the same seamless construction that Arcrsquoteryx has been using on their waterproof backpacks for a while now

Durability Initially I thought the PU coated nylon material used for

the upper looked cheaply made and wouldnrsquot last very long but

Image ndash wwwarcteryxcom

after a month it looks the same as it did on day one I havenrsquot been gentle with the shoes and yet they seem like they will hold up over time

I have noticed a minor bit of wear on the forefoot of the outsole which makes sense giv-en the type of rubber used The SL does stick amazingly well with Vibramrsquos Megagrip rubber

FitOne odd thing I noticed was that only one of the shoes has a bit of a crease that develops in the upper and uncomfortably jabs into the side of my foot I thought that this would go away over time and it has lessened but not disap-peared entirely I canrsquot say if this is due to my slightly different sized feet or if I need a half size smaller but it is something to watch out for

Itrsquos important to take a look at the Arcrsquoteryx sizing chart because the sizes are a bit differ-ent than normal (eg a US Menrsquos size 9 is a 42 23rds Euro 85 is a 42)

With the supplied footbed the SL feels quite soft which is OK for easy trails or slab climbing but for scree or rocky approaches I threw in a stiffer thicker footbed

WeightAt 300g per shoe the SL weighs about the same as a pair of running shoes which is hardly no-ticeable in a climbing pack

PriceAt $170 the Acrux SL is priced in the middle of the approach shoe offerings

ConclusionOverall I was more impressed with the Acrux SL than I thought I would be They fit well breathe well and due to the construction I think they will end up being more durable than most other approach shoes Now about those colourshellip

BCA_AMGA_46x75_springindd 2 53116 1125 AM

Adam Burrell an ACMG Ski Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hik-ing Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 1 lives in Canmore AB

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 23: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

44 45 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

DeLorme inReach ReviewBy Marc Picheacute

OverviewDeLorme became a partner of the ACMG last year and as part of their agreement they provided the ACMG Partnership Co-ordinator Ken Beacutelanger with two inReach units to try out Ken lent me one of these devices to use for my last few weeks of ski touring this season Note - I did not pay for this unit nor did I pay for the service package they provided This brief review is specifically on the functionality of the inReach as a backcountry communications device

BackgroundAs a long time sat phone owner I thought I had my back-

country communications all sorted out Despite some lag time on the Iridium system Ive always felt as though I had my bases covered by having both a radio and my sat phone available while working in remote areas I have never needed to deal with an emergency while using a satellite phone however I have always wondered how things would go if I did not have a signal right away and had to decide between struggling to get the phone to work and managing the situation

FindingsIt did not take long before I realized that the inReach could

take care of these types of situations quite effectively Delorme provides reliable two-way communication with four options to get your message to the outside world

1 Send preprogrammed text messages including a personalized SOS message

2 Type a short text message to any phone number world-wide3 Send messages by email 4 inReach to inReach messaging

All of these can be done using either the onboard typing system or once paired with a smart phone you can use its key-board as well as gain access to all of your contacts

PerformanceThe inReach was in my pack for one week of ski touring in

the Rockies and another 20 days in the Elbrus region of Russia I used it frequently to communicate throughout this period and 100 of my messages were sent and although at times it seemed to take quite a while I received all replies to my messages There seemed to be a periodic lag time of up to 20 minutes each way but this was a small price to pay for the convenience

FunctionalityAs an emergency communication tool it seems to be a step

up over some of its competition in that the emergency call cen-tre can reply to your request in order to get more information about the nature of your emergency Another distinct advantage

inReach SE (left) and inReach Explorer (right) Images ndash wwwinreachcanadacom

Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG

SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON BANFF NATIONAL PARK | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE

OR_ACMG Ad_Full_052616indd 1 53116 1154 AM

is that when working in countries with foreign languages it is possible to pre-program messag-es to local rescue groups in the correct language ahead of time Although it would be difficult to have messages for every situation it could be a lot easier than learning to speak Russian in the middle of an emergency

Prosbull Two way communicationbull Lighter than a sat phonebull Easy to type when paired with a smart phonebull Long lasting batterybull Multiple pre-programmed messagesbull ACMG members get a discount

Consbull Somewhat clunky user interfacebull Challenging to type a message using the device

directlybull Irsquove heard of two incidents where the device

stopped working for no apparent reason and had to be replaced

ConclusionAll in all this has me considering replac-

ing my old Spot device with something that is far more practical It can still be given to a guest to use as a very simple SOS device in case the guide is incapacitated while it doubles as a handy and reliable two-way communication tool

Editorrsquos Note ndash in addition to the communica-tion features GPS and tracking functions of the inReach SE the inReach Explorer also has a built in digital compass barometric altimeter and ac-celerometer sensors to provide more accurate bear-ings elevations speed and more

Marc Picheacute a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director lives in Canmore AB

Technical

continued from page 15

Julbo ScholarshipFine eyewear purveyor Julbo has also stepped up to the plate this year by providing two $500 course subsidy scholarships for members of the mountain certification stream Similar to the other financial awards a digital application form can be found on the ACMG Member website

The deadline to apply for all awards is August 15 2016Completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG

Scholarship Committee at scholarshipsacmgca

Derek Wilding an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym In-structor 3 lives in Calgary AB

ACMG Scholarship News

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 24: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

46 47 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Black Diamond Evac 7 Shovel ReviewBy Larry Stanier

OverviewI am a big fan of shovels that convert to hoes and I think BD has come up with a winner here

I asked for some feedback on the ACMG Informalex and got lots of positive responses from people who had used them HARD and from some people who were just familiar with them Everyone who had used them HARD agreed that it was a solid efficient tool

Consistent positive commentsbull Great ergonomics It feels solid and moves snow really well as a

shovel or a hoe Big blade that you can get a boot on if need bebull Durable I asked specifically if anyone had bent or broken one

Lots of folks said they had worked the Evac hard with no prob-lems I got one very disappointing report of a broken weld at the base of the blade on a first use of the shovel and one report of a slight bend in a blade while digging out frozen-in tent pegs

bull Great tool for snow craft

Consistent negative commentsbull The big blade and bent handle take up a lot of space in the packbull The finish on the blade and handle picks up snow easilybull Handle sticks and or freezes but gets less sticky with time or a

coating of graphite lube

bull The buttons that you depress to change modes are awkward in gloves

ConclusionThe big blade and curved handle do take up a lot of space and it is a pain in the ass to pack around It was mentioned consistent-ly how it didnt fit into BD packs very well That has supposedly changed with larger shovel pockets in the new BD ski packs

For me and a solid majority of the respondents the benefits far outweigh the inconvenience It is a solid working class tool and in the hands of a REAL shovel operator it can move a lot of snow in either mode

Tech SpecsEvac 7 ndash 794 g 27 L blade volume 67 ndash 94 cm length range

Evac 9 ndash 902 g 35 L blade volume 71 ndash 99 cm length range

Larry Stanier is an ACMG Mountain Guide living in Canmore AB

Image - wwwblackdiamondequipmentcom

ClassifiedsHeli Ski Guides Wanted for 2015-2016Selkirk Tangiers Heli Skiing LLP has openings for full time and part time ACMG or IFMGA certified Mountain Guides and Ski Guides for the 2016-2017 winter seasonWage Competitive wages commensurate with experience and skillsLocation Revelstoke BCJob Description Certified and experienced Mountain or Ski Guides needed for the winter season Experience Minimum three years of experience as a lead Ski GuideSkills Abilities Strong guiding skills strong personal ski skills and be physically fit Fluency in German is a preferred assetCertificationsQualifications ACMG or IFMGA certification CAA Level 2 for Ski operations Advanced First Aid (minimum 80 hours) with AED and CPR certificates Valid Class 4 driverrsquos licenseTo apply please send your resume to Colette Poirier ndash Human Resources Selkirk Tangiers Heli SkiingPO Box 130 Revelstoke BC V0E 2S0 Email cpoirierselkirk-tangierscom

2-way text messaging 2-way SOS Navigation and tracking 100 global coverage

inReach SE and inReach Explorer Rugged design combined with two-way messaging SOS and GPS ndash inReach works where cell phones donrsquot Send and receive messages trigger an SOS and share your journey Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach

CONNECTED

For a limited-time offer visit wwwinreachcanadacomACMG

Reach anyone Anywhere Anytime

inReach

Technical

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 25: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

48 49 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

Member Updates

Ski GuideBernas IgorCaswell MichaelCurran IanDavid JeromeDutton JohnEnns AaronEverts JohnEwing SamFunston MorgenGerrard CharlesHjertaas KevinHoke JonasLefebvre MartinMcLean StewartMilner JesseNeault TrevorRasmussen TristenRigby ChadRousselle SamuelSelda Peter JamieThomson SimonThumlert ScottWeddell BryonWerner ShannonWodak SabinaYim Roger

Apprentice Ski GuideDykshoorn TamaraFarley DarrenFarquharson JordanFisher NigelHiggins TylerHoyle PeterHurley ConorLamoureux JustinLongpreacute FrancoisMackenzie BrenMakepeace MelissaMeyer KathyRicci TimSnowsell Ian

Apprentice Rock GuideCriddle Mark

Hiking Guide (PLAR ndash Prior Learning Assessment Review)Anthony-Malone KristinBeacutelanger KenOsberg Sarah

Sarkany DaveSmith Brodie

Climbing Gym Instructor 1Blumel JeremyBrophy MarkBrydges ScottBudning SeanChan LaurenCrawford-White AndrewCuthbert KoriDanaher KavanaghDouglas LukeDraycott EricGnyra ThomasGraham TraceyHenry AmandaHill StuartHirsch JudithInsley MattKam RaymondLajeunesse SpencerMayhew HudsonMontal JaedwinMykytyn IllyaNyquist MichaelOnoya SoleilOxer MarkParker BrodiePrins CortneyPrior DanaPrisner MylissaPumphrey AnnieQiu YushengStewart ColeStrohmaier RyanThisdelle JordanWells BradyWhite AngelaYun Heesu

Climbing Gym Instructor 2Collins MichaelMcDougall GregMetcalfe JayPeel RazVey Rachel

Top Rope Climbing InstructorDemchuk Kristin AHGFagan SamuelFines Morgan CGI 2Goto Katsuhiko SG DHG

Changes in ACMG Membership1 November 2015 to 31 May 2016 Compiled by Member Services

Heckl EddieIrvine CarolineKelly Sandra CGI 2Pawlyk BrettPerry Laurence CGI 1Peters StephenShankman MorganTalbot MargoThornton John MGTurecka TerezaTurk Alix

Joined ACMG for the first time (not through course during above period)Schlumpf Christian ARGMakischuk Michael ARGCarbonetto Lenny AHGEvans Leah AHGHanemayer Jesica AHGKesler Trevor AHGPage Danny AHGWeiss Nathan AHGBaggaley Nicholas CGI 1Chan Natalie CGI 1Desjarlais Isiah CGI 1Fornari Joe CGI 1Funk Alison CGI 1Mandrish Hannah CGI 1McLarty Joanne CGI 1Moorman Alex CGI 1Nelson Keith CGI 1Perry Laurence CGI 1Pierce Jen CGI 1Power Chelsea CGI 1Powsey Clive CGI 1Tash Atiyeh CGI 1Whitney Claire CGI 1Olszewski Josie TRCI

Reinstated to the ACMGBryan David HGHulbert Russell SGLovenuik Stephen SGMatheson Sarah CGI 1McKeown Donald CGI 1Saul Doug HGSklarski Evan AHG

Resigned from the ACMGFynn Sean CGI 1Goonetilleke Hashila AHGHalik Martina ASGOchiai Keita DHG

The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur-ing this specific time period Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications Always check wwwacmgca for up-to-date current status Please do not hesitate to contact acmgacmgca if you have any queries or if there are any errors omissions or you have been missed Italicized names indicate new ACMG members

Diapers and VowsBy Lilla Molnar

Ian McEleney amp Jessica Haist at their ski wedding Photo ndash Dale Apgar

Jessica Haist (Assistant Hiking Guide amp Climbing Gym Instruc-tor 1) married Ian McEleney at Minaret Vista California in ski boots

The wedding was actually on January 7 2014 where their friends skied in for the ceremony and then everyone (including the bride and groom) skied out The couple just had their wed-ding reception in Mammoth Lakes California this June where relatives flew in from across the US and Canada

Lots of little mountain babies have been born since the last edi-tion of diapers and vows Congratulations to everyone

Geoff Osler (Mountain Guide) and his wife Robyn had a baby girl named Francis Joan born on January 30 in Canmore AB weighing in at 6lb 12oz

Lauren Firth was born to Danielle and Ben Firth (Mountain Guide) on April 1st At 7lbs 1oz she is has already taken over the guiding role in the household

Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen are home in Golden BC with their new little bundle Micah He was born on May 17th at 8lbs 11oz

Ian Kirschner (Ski Guide) and his wife Bri had a baby boy last November named Crosby

Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had a baby boy name Henry Frank Woods on April 17th

Larry Dolecki (Mountain Guide) and his wife Mette had baby number 3 Baby Annika was born on April 26

Ian Jackson (Mountain Guide) and his wife Jenny had a beautiful baby girl name Emma Sian on March 27th They are doing well and adjusting to being sleep deprived new parents

Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought to you by Canmore AB Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 26: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

50 51 Summer 2016 Summer 2016The Arecircte The Arecircte

ACMG Contact Information

Board of Directors - Officers of the BoardVice-PresidentSylvia Forest Director InteriorGolden BC vpacmgca

President Marc LedwidgeBanff ABpresacmgca

Secretary-TreasurerKevin Dumba Director at Large PublicCalgary ABstacmgca

Board of Directors - Elected Directors

ACMG Administrative SupportThe Administrative Support Group led by the Executive Director is responsible for matters relating to membership member services accounting IT sponsorship and promotions The ED reports to the President

ACMG CommitteesCommittees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association

As a member-driven organization with limited resources the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy Board members typically but not necessarily chair each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees If you would like to join one of the committees please contact the President presacmgca

Director Specialty GuidesDerek Wilding Calgary AB derekiwildinggmailcom

Director RockiesJordy ShepherdCanmore AB jordypeakalpinecom

Director Apprentice GuidesRich HaywoodGaribaldi Highlands BC kokopelliconsultingtelusnet

Director West CoastRoss BergSquamish BCrossaltusmountainguidescom

Director Climbing InstructorsScott McKay Canmore AB scottmckayshawca

Director Eastern CanadaPhilippe Gautier Montreal QCeophilgmailcom

Director Hiking GuidesNathan Dahl Calgary AB ndahlualbertaca

Director at Large PublicRick CowburnCalgary AB rcowburnvidyaca

CommunicationsKimanda JarzebiakAscent Public AffairsVictoria BC

FinanceJohn GillettCanmore AB

LegalG W Kent ScarboroughScarborough Herman BluekensNew Westminster BC

Executive DirectorPeter TuckerBragg Creek ABedacmgca

Editor-in-ChiefShaun KingCanmore ABnewsacmgca

Permit Manager Assistant to EDJanet MillerCanmore ABpermitsacmgca

Web Graphics and IT CoordinatorChris MillerCanmore ABwebmasteracmgca

AwardsChair Chris Miller -awards_commacmgca Brad White

Climbing InstructorChair Scott McKay -scottmckayshawcaChris AdshadeJustin DwyerKimanda JarzebiakLloyd KingSebastian PowellDerek Wilding

CommunicationsChair Lisa Porter - lisalouihotmailcom Emily GradyPaddy JeromeJeremy MackenzieOlivia SoferIan Tomm

Conduct ReviewChair Rod Gibbons - conductacmgca Committee members added as necessary Pool includesNick Atkinson (public)Paul BerntsenBarry BlanchardGillian Calder (public)Nathan DahlGeorge FieldNeil Haggard (public)Jeremy MackenzieDave StarkLarry StanierLeslie Taylor (public)Marni Virtue (public)Rupert Wedgwood

GovernanceChair Rick Cowburn - rcowburnvidyacaSteve Blagbrough

Pierre HungrKent Scarborough (legal advisor)Paul Vidalin

MCRInformalexChair Larry Stanier -laristantelusnet Steve HolecziSarah HuenikenConrad JanzenTom Wolfe

Membership ServicesChair Ben Firth - benfirthmountain-solutionsnetChristoph DietzfelbingerJorg WilzDerek HoltvedJanet MillerMike Welch

Professional Practices Chair Nathan Dahl - ndahlualbertacaJames BlenchAlison CardinalBrent GoodmanSteve HolecziMatt PeterVeronika Vackova

ScholarshipChair Derek Wilding - scholarshipsacmgcaJason BillingJordy ShepherdSharon Wood

TechnicalTechnical Director Marc Picheacute - tdacmgcaJames BlenchDwayne CongdonTodd Guyn

Partnership CoordinatorKen BeacutelangerCanmore AB partnershipacmgca

Member Services ManagerLaura YoungCanmore ABacmgacmgca

Board Advisors

Director at Large Member MG Cecelia MortensonRevelstoke BC ceceliamortensongmailcom

Director at Large Member MGKirsten Knechtel Golden BC kirstenknechtelgmailcom

Administrative AssistantElaine Powers Rossland BC elaineacmgca

The Arecircte NewsletterThe Arecircte is a semi-annual publication focusing on the relevant technical and political issues and member news for the professions of mountain guiding hiking guiding and climbing instruction

June 2016Subject to change for current information see wwwacmgca gt Contacts

Technical DirectorMarc PicheacuteCanmore ABtdacmgca

The TD chairs the Tech-nical Committee oversees all matters relating to technical standards and reports to the President

Continuing Professional Development CPD CoordinatorAlison DakinGolden BCcpdacmgca

Organizational Contractors

PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDFSIZE 75rdquow x 95rdquoh BLEED NA SAFE NACOLOURS CMYK

FAMOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY VANCOUVER BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300

PROOF DOCKET 16_CM_0024PROJECT Climbing Magazine adCLIENT CampM Michelle WongPROOF DATE May 9 2016 933 AM

ITEM PRINT AD ACMG Print PDFIMAGE IMG_0811jpg IMG_1866JPGDESIGNER Lisa lisagoodmeccaFILE NAME 16_CM_0024_Climbing_ACMG Print PDF_75x95_FAindd

ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

GETFUNDED

ldquoWithout this extraordinary support our dream would have never even gotten o the groundrdquoAnna Smith

Michelle K

adatz

In July 2015 Michelle Kadatz and Anna Smith travelled to Baffin Island to attempt remote and imposing routes on Mount Asgard and the south buttress of Mount Loki In fifty hours of climbing they sent two world-class routes and nabbed the first all-female ascent of Loki MEC Expedition Support helped get them there

By supporting innovative outdoor exploits across Canada and around the world the MEC Expedition Support program helps Canadians turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities

Want to know more meccaexpeditions

Anna S

mith

The ACMG has a variety of independent contractors who fulfill the required administrative functions of the association

Kirk MauthnerCraig McGeeHelen Sovdat

Quality AssuranceChair Mark Klassen - qa_commacmgcaTroy KirwanDave StarkKent Scarborough (Legal Advisor)Larry StanierIan TommBrad White

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading

Page 27: Association of Canadian Mountain Guides · warmly welcome new members who have recently passed exams through Thompson Rivers University (TRU). In these cases, applications are relatively

52 Summer 2016The Arecircte

PartnersThe following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada

Logan

Robson

Columbia

The Arecircte is printed on 100 recycled paper Please be responsible and recycle after reading