Athearn SD40-2Tsunami Digital Sound Decoder Installation Notes

OverviewThis application note describes how to install a TSU-AT1000 into an Athearn Ready-To-Roll HO SD40-2.

Skill Level 2: The entire installation can be completed in one to two hours with no modification required to the model.

Bill of MaterialsP.N. Description

828041 TSU-AT1000 EMD 645 Turbo810113 16mm x 35mm Oval Speaker810037 Shrink Tube Assortment 30-32 Gauge Wire

Evergreen P.N.

9030 0.030” Sheet Styrene

For your convenience, Evergreen part numbers have been listed above. Please visit their website at www.evergreenscalemodels.com

Tools You Will Need■ 25 W Soldering Iron■ Rosin Core Solder■ Wire Strippers■ Wire Cutters■ X-Acto Knife with #11 Blade■ Miniature Screwdriver Set■ Metal Straight Edge

■ Dial Calipers■ Aquarium Sealant or Clear Silicone■ Liquid Plastic Cement■ Insulative Electrical Tape■ Double-Sided Foam Tape■ Masking Tape■ Small Pliers■ Heat Gun or Blow Dryer

Installation

1. Begin with removing the couplers and coupler boxes. Unscrew the center screws of the boxes and gently pull the coupler boxes from each end. (Photo 1)

2. The shell should lift off easily. Take care when removing the shell since the wires for the headlight and backup light are connected to the light board that is attached to the top of the motor. (Photo 2)

3. Begin removing the small black clips attached to the light board that hold the wires in place. Be sure to note the function of each wire. Labeling with masking tape will make reassembly much easier later. (Photo 3)

4. Once all wires have been disconnected, the board can be removed. There is a clip on the bottom of the board that snaps onto a second clip on top of the motor. This clip also acts as the motor positive lead (M+). Unsnap the clip off and remove the board. (Photos 4 and 5)

5. Remove the two screws holding the weight to the top of the frame, then remove the weight. Because the weight will be replaced with the speaker it can be discarded at this time.(Photo 6)

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 5

Photo 6

8. Once done, remount the clip to the motor. (Photo 10)

9. Steps 9 through 13 are recommended to ensure the reliable operation of the decoder. Remove the screw holding on the fuel tank and then remove the fuel tank. (Photo 11)

10. Next remove the four screws under the body that hold the motor mounts to the frame. (Photo 12)

11. Lift out the motor and the drivelines will fall out from the fl ywheel. (Photo 13)

6. After the light board has been removed, the M+ lead will need to be replaced. On top of the motor there is a copper clip, which should carefully be removed as there is a small spring residing below. Using a small pair of pliers, grasp the long end of the clip (indicated by the arrow in the photo) and slowly twist up and away from the mounting so that the spring slowly decompresses and does not fl y up from the model. (Photos 7 and 8)

7. Once the clip has been removed, solder a 3” piece of 30-32 gauge wire to the top of the clip so that it extends over the long end. After soldering the wire on, wrap the connection with insulative tape to protect the connection. Be sure the area where the spring contacts the clip is not covered with tape, or the motor will not function. (Photo 9)

Photo 8

Photo 9

Photo 10

Photo 13

Photo 11

Photo 12

Photo 7

12. Note that the bottom of the motor is an uninsulated clip, which is separated from the frame by a small air gap. If this gap is bridged, the decoder could be damaged. To ensure that this will not happen, place a small strip of electrical insulative tape along the bottom of the frame as shown. This will guarantee the motor is fully insulated from the frame. (Photo 14)

13. Reinstall the motor in the frame. Be sure to insert the drive shafts into the fl ywheel before reinstalling the screws for the motor mounts. Reinstall the fuel tank at this time.

14. Using double-sided foam tape, mount the decoder to the top of the motor. Be sure the M+ wire that was added in Step 7 comes out on the proper side of the decoder to attach to the M+ tab on the decoder. (Photo 15)

15. Solder the wires for the track pickup and motor to the respective terminals following the wiring diagram at the end of the document.

16. Test the model for proper operation by placing it on the mainline and running it in forward and reverse. There will be no lights or sound yet. Correct any problems now.

17. The speaker for this installation is a small oval speaker. Start by soldering two 6” pieces of 30-32 gauge wire to the terminals on the speaker. Since we are using only one speaker, polarity is not important. (Photo 16)

18. Next, cut the sides and top for the styrene baffl e following the template at the end of this document. Using liquid plastic cement, secure the styrene pieces around the sides of the speaker. (Photo 17)

19. Thread the wires for the speaker through two of the mounting holes in the speaker frame, and then cement the top on the assembly. File or sand the joints smooth for easier handling. (Photo 18)

Photo 15

Photo 16

Photo 17

Photo 18

Photo 14

20. Secure the speaker assembly into the top of the model facing upward (if the radiator fans are open; face down if fans are closed). Secure in place using silicone and allow to fully cure before moving on.

22. This model is equipped with 1.5V bulbs. The TSU-AT1000 has a provision for use with 1.5V bulbs without the need for additional resistors. Take one wire from each of the headlights and solder to tab 3. Take one wire from each of the backup lights and solder to tab 8. Take one lead from the nose lights and solder them to the FX5 tab. (Photo 19)

23. Next take the remaining six wires (two from the nose lights, two from the headlights, and two from the backup lights) and seperate them into three groups of two (two headlights, two nose lights, two backup lights). Take a group of two and solder the ends to one end of a 2” piece of 30-32 gauge wire. Do the same for the other two pairs. These will be called “branches”.

24. Now cut three 3/4” pieces of 1/8” red heat shrink tubing and slide one piece over each of the branches until they cover the connections. Use a heat gun or blow dryer to shrink the tubing. Then solder the three ends of the branches to the 1.5V common.

25. Solder the speaker wires to the S+ and S- terminals. Since only one speaker is being used, polarity is not important.

26. Take the capacitor and place it to just hang off the front of the decoder. Tape in place if desired. Replace the shell and test run the locomotive to be sure there are no wires rubbing against the drive mechanism or motor. Select address 3 on the mainline and ensure the motor, sound, and lights function properly. Correct any problems encountered now.

27. Replace the coupler boxes on each end. Test run again. All that is left to do now is to program the address and enjoy!

Photo 19

®

New Dimensions in Digital Sound Technology

Programming notes: This model was equipped with a Mars light on the nose. During the install, FX5 was wired to these lights. To program the decoder for this Hyperlight effect, Set CV 50 to 2. Now pressing FX5 will activate the nose Mars light.

©2013 Throttle Up! Corp.All Rights Reserved

7.5mm 7.5mm 7.5mm 7.5mm 18mm

16mm

37mm 37mm

Front Right Pickup

Front Left Pickup

RearRight Pickup

RearLeft Pickup

Motor

1.5V Common

Function Common

Headlight Backup Light

1 2 3 4

107

8

9

FWD

REV ALED25 6

Motor -

Motor +

Nose Light

1.5V Common

TSU-AT1000 diagram:

141 Burnett Drive • Durango, CO 81301Phone: (970) 259-0690 • Toll Free: 888-789-7637 • Fax: (970)259-0691

Email: support@soundtraxx.com • Website: www.soundtraxx.com

Speaker baffl e dimensions: