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SINGAPORE SG$7.90 HONG KONG HK$43THAILAND THB175 INDONESIA IDR50,000

MALAYSIA MYR17 VIETNAM VND85,000MACAU MOP44 PHILIPPINES PHP240

BURMA MMK35 CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 LAOS LAK52,000 Trave l a n d Le i s u re A s i a .co m

VINTAGE VERVEBag the best buysin Hong Kong,Bangkok, Singapore

SECRET SURABAYA

Indonesiashidden city

THE T+L GUIDE TO TUSCANYS NEW SIDE

MUST-READBUSINESS TRAVEL TIPS YOU NEED

AUGUST 2010

MUS

PLUS: THE INSIDERS GUIDETO SURVIVING ASIAN TAXIS

WORLDS BEST AWARDS 2010T+L REVEALS THE BEST IN HOTELS, AIRLINES, CRUISES, SPAS AND MORE

Making the most of the MACAU GRAND PRIX

SPEED KINGS

COOL IDEAS FOR YOUR NEXT STAY

PHUKET

Privilege knows no boundaries.

Carried by the Elite,the world over.

By invitation only.For expression of interest, please call

Singapore: + (65) 6295 6293Hong Kong: + (852) 2277 2233

Thailand: + (66) 2273 5445

^Based on double occupancy. The actual value might be lower than stated, depending on the property, room category, availability of bene ts, the length and date of stay. *In order to receive Fine Hotels & Resorts and Jumeirah Exclusive programme amenities and rates, reservations must be made through The Platinum Card Service and payment must be made using the American Express Card in the Platinum Cardmembers name. Room upgrade at check-in is based on availability. One special programme amenity per room, per stay. Not combinable with corporate or group contracted rates. Participating partners and programme bene ts are subject to change without notice. Programme valid for travel until 31/12/2010. Other terms and conditions apply.

Dubai extends a warm welcome to holidaymakers as well as business visitors, offering hospitality of the highest standards combined with the charm and adventure of Arabia. With a perfect climate, top-class hotels, superb sports and leisure facilities, and excellent shopping, Dubai has something to offer everyone.

We are delighted to present to you our Exclusive Lodging Programmes showcasing the finest properties in Dubai that extend a special welcome to American Express Platinum Cardmembers.

The Fine Hotels & Resorts Programme offers you a variety of memorable experiences and a suite of exclusive benefits* including room upgrade as available upon check-in, daily breakfast for two, 4pm late checkout and an additional privilege unique to each property, giving you access to more than US$550 in valuable benefits^ for a 2-night stay. Some of our partners include The Ritz-Carlton Dubai, Raffles Dubai and Park Hyatt Dubai.

For full partner listing, please visit americanexpress.com.sg/platinumfhr

JUMEIRAH EXCLUSIVESJumeirah properties are regarded as among the most luxurious and innovative in the world. Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts encompass the world-renowned Burj Al Arab, the worlds most luxurious hotel, the multi-award-winning Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Madinat Jumeirah and Jumeirah Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa.

Platinum Cardmembers can enjoy a complimentary 3rd/4th night with room upgrade, daily buffet breakfast and other exclusive benefits* at the above Jumeirah properties.

FOR DETAILS & RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL THE PLATINUM CARD SERVICE AT

SINGAPORE: +(65) 6392 1177 (option 1) HONG KONG: +(852) 2277 2233 THAILAND: +(66) 2273 5599

EXCLUSIVE OFFERS FOR AMERICAN EXPRESS PLATINUM CARDMEMBERS VISITING DUBAI

JumJJumJumJumumJummJummJumJumJumJJummJumumummummJJ eirirrrrrrrrrahahahh hh h EmimimimEmEmEmmEmEmmiratattratratratatatratratra eeeses s s eses es TowTowwTowTowwersererserseers JumJumJumJummmmeireireireireirireireiririrrire rah ah ahah ahahahah aahahaha BaBabbBBBBBa Al AlAlA Shh Shamsamms

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Issue Index

SOUTHEAST ASIABangkok 48, 65Hanoi 57 Hong Kong 27, 48, 52, 65Indonesia 45, 54Macau 80Malaysia 27, 45Maldives 45

Phnom Penh 44Phuket 130Singapore 27, 44, 49, 65Thailand 22, 49

ASIABeijing 46Bhutan 45

Pondicherry 73 Seoul 46 Tokyo 27

EUROPEIstanbul 100Lucca, Italy 138London 94

Sintra 60

PACIFICMelbourne 48. 158

AMERICASBaja 87Montreal 146

(Destinations)08.10

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A U G U S T 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M6

(SGD) (HKD) (BT) (RP) (RM) (VND) (MOP) (P) (MMK) (KHR) (BND) (LAK)Singapore Hong Kong Thailand Indonesia Malaysia Vietnam Macau Philippines Burma Cambodia Brunei Laos

US ($1) 1.38 7.78 32.4 9,033 3.20 19,000 8.01 46.3 6.41 4,260 1.38 8,232

Source: www.xe.com (exchange rates at press time).

Currency Converter

0oF 20oF 40oF 65oF 75oF 90oF

-40oC -25oC -10oC 0oC 5oC 10oC 15oC 20oC 30oC 40o+C

50oF-40oF -20oF

Phuket 130

Pondicherry 73

Montreal 146

Istanbul 100

Lucca 138Baja 87

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M | V O L 0 4 | I S S U E 0 8


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130 Plunge into PhuketThe popular Thai resort continues in its attempt to be all things to sun seekers. By CHRISTOPHER KUCWAY. Photographed by BRENT T. MADISON

138 Undiscovered TuscanyIn and around the walled city of

Lucca, GARY SHTEYNGART finds epic, rich and delicate Italian flavors all accompanied by long arguments about the quality of the local bread. Photographed by DAVID CICCONI

146 Magnificent MontrealPart Anglophone and part Francophone, with one foot in the past and the other in the future, this is a city that defies easy definition. By ADAM SACHS. Photographed by JESSICA ANTOLA

129-146Features

>113 Bangkoks grand, and so too is its palace.

Special Worlds Best > 113T+L readers have cast their votes for the top hotels, destinations, airlines, cruises, outfitters and transportation companies in the world. In 2010, our new and improved poll yielded a record number of votes, proof that T+L readers have an ever more powerful voice as they determine the travel experiences that matter now. Edited by SARAH KANTROWITZ with BREE SPOSATO

12 Editors Note16 Contributors 18 Letters20 Best Deals

158 My Favorite Place

Departments

Strategies Special Business Travel > 27Business travel doesnt have to be boring. Heres how to make the most of your work trips to four Asian cities. Plus: The lowdown on hidden hotel fees, how to score a hotel upgrade and making the most of your taxi ride around Asia.

73 PreservationThanks to some well-aimed, not to mention timely restoration work, Pondicherrys little taste of France in south India has never been more appetizing. BY TANVI CHHEDA

80 DrivingMacaus annual grand prix offers a glimpse of the future stars in the deafening world of motorsports. HELEN DALLEY takes a crash course before this years races.

87 FoodLured by spicy quail, tuna ceviche and Mexicos best fish tacos, PETER JON LINDBERG lights out for Bajaand from there, things just go south.

94 OpinionWhat happens when you return to a destination you once knew, only to find it unrecognizable? Revisiting his old haunts in London, PETER JON LINDBERG considers the nostalgia for place.

100 PortfolioAfter visiting the fabled city, photographer BOAZ ZIPPOR cant help thinking about Istanbul and all the fascinating twists and turns it presents.

43-60Insider

73-100T+L Journal

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MALAYSIA MYR17 VIETNAM VND85,000MACAU MOP44 PHILIPPINES PHP240

BURMA MMK35 CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 LAOS LAK52,000 Trave l a n d Le i s u re A s i a .co m

VINTAGE VERVEBag the best buysin Hong Kong,Bangkok, Singapore

SECRET SURABAYA

Indonesiashidden city

THE T+L GUIDE TO TUSCANYS NEW SIDE

MUST-READBUSINESS TRAVEL TIPS YOU NEED

AUGUST 2010

MUS

PLUS: THE INSIDERS GUIDETO SURVIVING ASIAN TAXIS

WORLDS BEST AWARDS 2010T+L REVEALS THE BEST IN HOTELS, AIRLINES, CRUISES, SPAS AND MORE

Making the most of the MACAU GRAND PRIX

SPEED KINGS

COOL IDEAS FOR YOUR NEXT STAY

PHUKET

Cover

65 ShoppingAsia discovers the allure of vintage chic. BY HELEN DALLEY

70 BeautyEight great Internet sites for global beauty nomads. BY SHERRI EISENBERG

44 NewsflashStar Wars meets high fashion, Seouls coolest new corner, boutique art stays in Melbourne and more.

52 Night OutA fresh fleet of bars shakes up Hong Kongs nights. BY AMY MA

54 24 HoursSeeing the sights in Surabaya. BY STEVE MOLLMAN

57 Asian SceneHanois crossover art spaces. BY NAOMI LINDT

60 DetourSintra. BY ALEXANDRA MARSHALL

65-70Stylish Traveler

Aboard Andara, one of the yachts from Andara Resort & Villas, in the waters near Phuket, Thailand. Photographed by Brent T. Madison. Assistant: Richard Jones. Model: Vicky Kroon. Styling by Karin Madison. Hair and makeup by Albert Schippers. Swimsuit by Phuket Mermaids. Accessories by LOLA and Ginger at Plaza Surin.

(Contents)08.10

>57

>100

hongkong.langhamhotels.com

Photographed at The Langham, London

8 Peking Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong T (852) 2375 1133 F (852) 2375 6611

Your WonderlandAwaits.

EnchantingEncounters.since 1865

The Langham Club, the new residence of choice for those in the know.

Hong Kong

12

TRAVEL + LEISURE EDITORS, WRITERS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS ARE THE INDUSTRYS MOST RELIABLE SOURCES. WHILE ON ASSIGNMENT, THEY TRAVEL INCOGNITO WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND DO NOT TAKE PRESS TRIPS OR ACCEPT FREE TRAVEL OF ANY KIND.

TO

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A U G U S T 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

(Editors Note)08.10

if you did as I would do and fl icked

straight through to the full results on

page 113is Bangkok this year, as

it was in 2008. But wait, Bangkoks

been razed to the ground, right?

Well, it hasnt been, and most of our

Thai readers will hopefully join me

in emphasizing that Bangkok is

currently completely safe (as I told

an American friend who just asked);

plus, as well as offering everything

it did before, now is also the time to

snap up great deals. And if you want

to get out of the city, its the perfect

time now for a quick (an hour-and-a-half ) hop to the

beach at Pattaya, an island break (Plunge into

Phuket, page 130), or even a northern trip to Chiang

Mai (it is, after all, the second-best city in the Awards).

Anyway, I digress, but if you do plan to come to

Thailand, Id urge you to check out Bangkok again

if you havent before, especially in the leafy-green wet

and cool seasons ( just bring a brolly if youre here

before November!). Id love to list the multitude of

attractions on offer, but were running a Bangkok

special next month, so grab that in advance of the

upcoming high season, and make sure you check out

www.TravelandLeisureAsia.com for more on the city,

country and what to do when here.

Southeast Asians should also be

proud that 10 percent of the 100

listed Worlds Best Hotels are in our

region, and that in Asia overall, 23

resorts and city hotels rank in a list

of 40. Its also very interesting for

me to note the increasingly strong

presence of India, Korea and China

in the Awards, and I hope youll let

us know your top travel spots in our

2010 reader survey (page 128). Not

content with packing one of our

biggest-ever issues with all this,

weve also brought to you a stunning photo set by local

Thai snapper Boaz Zippor (Unforgettable Istanbul,

page 100) that captures the mystique of the city, where

Europe famously meets Asia. And revving back into

the modern world, we take an insiders look at the

Macau Grand Prix (Give me Speed, page 80) and

how to experience it, as well as Macau itself. And if you

travel for business, as I do mostly these days (and

theres the rub as a travel editor), make sure you glean

as much as you can from our Strategies guide (page

27). For me, the best business travel advice? Always

carry a pen for immigration cards on airplanes, and

stop asking to borrow mine.M A T T L E P PA R D

I GUESS THERE WAS SOME ELEMENT OF DOUBLE TAKE WHEN I FIRST SAW THE RESULTS OF THE WORLDS BEST AWARDS 2010. SPECIFICALLY, OF COURSE, THE WORLDS BEST CITY, WHICH YOULL KNOW

TRAVEL+LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIAVOL. 4, ISSUE 8

Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia is published monthly by Media Transasia Limited, Room 1205-06, 12/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2851-6963; Fax: +852 2851-1933; under license

from American Express Publishing Corporation, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in

writing from the Publisher. Produced and distributed by Media Transasia Thailand Ltd., 14th Floor, Ocean Tower II, 75/8 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoeynue, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel: +66 2 204-2370. Printed by Comform Co., Ltd. (+66 2 368-29427). Color separation by Classic Scan Co., Ltd. (+66 2 291-7575). While the editors

do their utmost to verify information published, they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy.

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PRESIDENT

PUBLISHING DIRECTOR

J.S. Uberoi

Egasith Chotpakditrakul

Rasina Uberoi-Bajaj

This edition is published by permission of

AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING CORPORATION

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Reproduction in whole or in part without the consent of the copyright owner is prohibited.

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REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS / PHOTOGRAPHERS

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Thomas D. Storms

BRENT MADISON | PHOTOGRAPHERTHE ASSIGNMENT Shot our Thailand feature (Plunge into Phuket, page 130). PHUKET IN THREE WORDS Rays, revelry, re-do. DONT MISS Dining and dancing at Ka Jok See. Dont go if you have an aversion to doing the limbo with a 100-kilogram

cross-dresser in the lull between your entre and your dessert. BEST DRINKIN TOWN Strangely, the welcome drink at the Sala Phuket spa. Id pay good money to know how the sweet and fl aking ginger ice cubes are made. TRAVEL ESSENTIAL A small, collapsible umbrella.

TANVI CHHEDA | WRITERTHE ASSIGNMENT Wrote this months look at preservation work in a pocket of colonial India (Cheery Pondy, page 73). FAVE PONDICHERRY MOMENT Trying to communicate with two Tamil women in my laughable French at a restaurant because I dont speak Tamil and they dont know English. TRAVELING IN INDIA IS A test of patience, but a reward for the soul. FAVORITE INDIAN FOOD Any type of Bombay street food, but especially refreshing panipuri on a hot day. WHAT DRIVES YOU CRAZY THERE? Traffi c. But theres traffi c everywhere.

HELEN DALLEY | WRITERTHE ASSIGNMENT Wrote stories on vintage shopping (Retail Therapy Goes Retro, page 65) and on the Macau Grand Prix (Give Me Speed, page 80). OLD CLOTHES OR FAST CARS? As Ive never learned how to drive, old clothes. I still own a corduroy camel coat from 20 years ago. BEST OF MACAU Wandering around Coloane, then egg tarts outside Lord Stows Caf. FAVORITE HOLIDAY PASTIME Passing the camera to my husband and soaking up the atmosphere. NEXT TRIP Tokyos Summer Sonic Music Festival to watch Stevie Wonder and my alt-rock heroes, the Pixies and Pavement.

(Contributors)08.10

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Chichijima, the largest island in Japans remote Ogasawara archipelago.

Opposite: Flamenco Beach, on Culebra

east of Puerto Rico.

ENDLESS SUN, SALTY BREEZES, OCEAN AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE: THERES

NOTHING LIKE AN ISLAND GETAWAY. T+L HAS FOUND 30 PERFECT PLACES, FROM AUSTRALIA TO MAURITIUS, WHERE YOU CAN KICK BACK AND LET YOURSELF GO

EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEENNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS SSSSSSSSSSSSSUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN,,,,,,,,,,,,,, SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLTTTTTTTTTTTTEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEENNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSS SSSSSSSSSSUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN,,,,,,,,,,,,, SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLLLLLLTTTTTTTTTTTT

Edited by Sarah Kantrowitz and Stirling Kelso. Reported by Tom Austin, Anya von Bremzen, Alysha Brown, Karen Burshtein, Irin Carmon, Jennifer Chen, Lisa Cheng, Jennifer Cole, Jennifer Coogan, Robyn Eckhardt, Irene Edwards, Kristina Ensminger, Jaime Gross, Catesby Holmes, Tina Isaac, Mark Orwoll, Kathryn OShea-Evans,

Ryan Poynter, Katerina Roberts, Ramsey Qubein, Jessica Schwartzberg, Meeghan Truelove, Jeff Wise and John Wogan.

E-MAIL T+L SEND YOUR LETTERS TO [email protected] AND LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS ON RECENT STORIES OR NEW PLACES TO VISIT.

LETTERS CHOSEN MAY BE EDITED FOR CLARITY AND SPACE. THE LETTER OF THE MONTH RECEIVES A FREE ONE-YEAR SUBSCRIPTION TO TRAVEL + LEISURE (SOUTHEAST ASIA ONLY). READER OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN LETTERS DO NOT NECESSARILY REFLECT THOSE OF TRAVEL + LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA, MEDIA TRANSASIA LTD., OR AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING.

More on IndiaI have just fi nished the last issue of T+L Southeast Asia. I read it cover to cover in one sitting and really enjoyed it. Every aspect of your magazine is enjoyable to me, but I am particularly interested in voluntourism as I am planning for my India trip in a next few months. Id like to see a column dedicated to India, which should cover voluntourism, art places, shopping and, as a foodie, I think a recommendation on local foods would be great. I love to go to restaurants where the locals go,preferably not a list of hotel restaurants someone found on a website. Thanks for your hard work in making this a good magazine.JARUWAN TANRATTANAWONG,

BANGKOK

EDITORS REPLY Thanks for your letter, Khun Jaruwan. We certainly intend to keepup our coverage of India in future issues. Check out this issues T+L Journal Preservation story on Pondicherry(page 73) and expect a whole lot more!

CORRECTION In our July issue, in theBest Deals department on page 20, welisted the Summer Special package at theFCC Angkor as including 20 percentoff la carte dining. This is, in fact, notthe case, and we apologize for the error.Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia policyis to correct all factual errors as soon as possible for the benefi t of our readers.

LETTER OF THE MONTH

Spoiled My ChoiceWhile I enjoyed your report on the best islands around the world [30 Secret Islands, July 2010], particularly because many of the places mentioned Ill never get to visit, the standout was in another one of your stories in the same issue. Now, I must visit Con Dao [Vietnams Secret]. The place sounds amazing and I have to say that Im very disappointed youve informed the whole region about this secluded spot. How could you? If there are more readers like me who want to walk along one of Con Daos quiet beaches, then my footprints wont be the only ones in the sand! So, in short, if you know of any other spots of solitude like Con Dao, can you let me know fi rst? I dont think thats too much to ask.JENN LEE, SINGAPORE

(Letters)08.10

Business Traveller

package at Hotel clat

Taipei (886-2/2784-

8888; eclathotels.com/

taipei). Whats

Included A stay in a

Deluxe room; daily

breakfast; a welcome

drink; free mini-bar

(excluding chocolate

and alcohol); transport

from hotel to of ce;

free Wi-Fi; and late

check-out at 4 P.M.

if available. Cost

NT$5,999 for the rst

night, subsequent

nights from NT$5,499,

through August 31.

Savings 60 percent.

Fancy a touch of class? Try one of these sophisticated getaways CAMBODIAStay 3 Pay 2 package at the Htel de la Paix (855-63/966-000; hoteldelapaixangkor.com)in Siem Reap. Whats Included Daily la carte breakfast; welcome cocktails; free Wi-Fi; free use of iPods loaded with music and temple audio tours; bottled water; and early check-in/late check-out when available. Cost From US$185 per night, through September 30. Savings 60 percent.

Summer Promotion at Villa Kiara (855-63/764-156; villakiara.com) in Siem Reap. Whats Included Airport pickup; daily breakfast; complimentary tuk-tuk transport; and free Wi-Fi. Cost From US$76 per night, through September 30. Savings 25 percent.

LAOSSummer in Luang Prabang package at 3 Nagas by Alila (856-71/253-888; alilahotels.com/3nagas) in Luang Prabang. Whats Included Daily breakfast; free Wi-Fi; and afternoon tea. Cost From US$105 per night, through September 30. Savings 20 percent.

MACAUOpening offer at Mandarin Oriental, Macau (853/8805-8822; mandarinoriental.com/macau). FR

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20 A U G U S T 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

Whats Included A one-night stay; welcome drinks; complimentary use of the steam room and sauna at The Spa; free shuttle-bus transfers to and from Macau Maritime Ferry Terminal; and one free additional nights stay or a dining or spa credit valued at MOP388. Cost From HK$2,188, through September 30. Savings Up to 50 percent. PHILIPPINESLast Minute Bookings promotion at Abac Boutique Resort (63-32/495-3461; abacaresort.com) on Mactan Island. Whats Included Round-trip airport transfers; welcome drinks; daily breakfast; evening cocktails; personalized butler service; free Wi-Fi; and complimentary use of fi tness facilities. Cost From US$224 per night, through August 31. Savings 30 percent.

SOUTH KOREAIntroductory Offer package at Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (82-2/2250-8000; banyantree.com). Whats Included Daily breakfast for two; and a choice of a 90-minute spa treatment at the Banyan Tree Spa, one bottle of champagne or a Japanese set lunch for two at Mori N. Cost KRW402,000 per night, two-night minimum, through August 31. Savings Up to 38 percent.

DEAL OF THE MONTH

Hotel clat Taipei.

(Best Deals) 08.10

3 Nagas by Alila.

Unbeatable Thailand

package at Banyan

Tree resorts (66-2/679-

1200; banyantree.com)

in Phuket, Ko Samui and

Bangkok. Whats

Included Daily

breakfast; hotel credits

equivalent to the

second nights room

rate to use on in-room

dining and mini-bar, spa

treatments and

shopping purchases.

Cost From Bt3,540 per

night for a Deluxe

Room; two-night

minimum; through

September 29. Savings

Up to 60 percent.

T+Ls pick of exceptional deals to fall in love with the Land of Smiles Bangkok Bouncing Back package at Metropolitan Bangkok (66-2/625-3333; metropolitan.bangkok.como.bz). Whats Included A stay in a City Room. Cost From Bt2,600 per night, through September 30 (bookings must be paid on reservation). Savings 47 percent.

Dusit Take 2 package at Dusit International hotels and resorts (66-2/636-3333; dusit.com/take2) in Bangkok, Hua Hin, Pattaya, Phuket and Chiang Mai. Whats Included A one-night stay with 50 percent off either the second night or second room; and 20 percent off dining, spa treatments and laundry services. Cost From Bt1,900 per night, through September 30. Savings 25 percent.

Welcome Back package at The Sukhothai Bangkok (66-2/344-8888; sukhothaihotel.com). Whats Included Daily breakfast; free Wi-Fi; complimentary mini-bar (soft drinks and beer); one-way airport transfer by hotel limo (up to three passengers) for Executive Deluxe and Deluxe Suite stays; and a 60-minute Thai massage for Executive Deluxe or Deluxe Suite stays of two consecutive nights or more. Cost From Bt4,900 per night for a Superior Room, through August 31. Savings Up to 38 percent.

Sawasdee! Weve Missed You package at Anantara Resorts (66-2/476-1130; anantara.com) in Thailand including Hua Hin, Golden Triangle, Ko Samui, Phuket and Krabi. Whats Included Daily breakfast buffet; 20 FR

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percent off all food and beverages; and late check out till 4 P.M. Cost From Bt3,060 per night per room, available for residents of Hong Kong, Singapore, Korea, China, India, Taiwan and Australia only, through September 30. Savings Up to 40 percent.

Stay Longer, Third Night Free package at Four Seasons Bangkok (66-2/126-8866; fourseasons.com/bangkok). Whats Included Daily buffet breakfast; and a chilled martini and choice of tapas at Aqua outdoor lounge (once every three nights). Cost From Bt7,800 per room per night, three-night minimum, through September 30. Savings Up to 35 percent.

Great Affordable Escape package at the Napasai Koh Samui (66-77/429-200, napasai.com). Whats Included A stay in a Seaview Hill Villa; daily buffet breakfast for two; a dinner for two; round-trip airport transfers; and free Wi-Fi. Cost THB7,750 per night, through December 22. Savings 70 percent.

Summer Splendour package at The Peninsula Bangkok (66-2/861-2888; peninsula.com). Whats Included Free in-room Internet and Wi-Fi; free poolside Wi-Fi; boat transfer to and from Saphan Taksin Skytrain station; and a choice of room upgrade, one-way airport transfer or extra bed and breakfast for a third person. Cost From Bt8,600 per room per night, two-night minimum, through September 30. Savings 33 percent.

DEAL OF THE MONTH

At the Banyan Tree Spa.

The Metropolitan, left; Four Seasons Bangkok, right.

(Best Deals) Thailand Special 08.10

(Strategies) 08.10

27T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M | A U G U S T 2 0 1 0

Business travel doesnt have to be boring. Here, T+L helps you make the most of your work trips to four Asian cities. Illustrated by WASINEE CHANTAKORN

WORKING IT

strategies | business travel

a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 | t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m28

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tokyo epitomizes urban sprawl, so navigating it efficiently is key. the citys subways and trains are convenient

and fast save time by picking up a prepaid, rechargeable Suica or Pasmo card, which will work on most lines. otherwise, hail a taxi; meters start at 710. cabbies rarely speak english, so be sure to have your concierge write down your destination in japanese.

GettinG Around

TokyoDoing business in Japans capital? Leave behind the throngs of salarymen with our city guide. By KENJI HaLL

STAYTop End If your budget has no limits, the Peninsula tokyo (1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku; 81-3/6270-2888; peninsula.com; doubles from 38,000) has the best of everything: world-class service, luxurious rooms and suites, and, from the upper floors, splendid unobstructed views of the leafy Imperial Palace gardens.

BusinEss ChiC Plush, elegant and with an old-world feel, the Westin (1-4-1 Mita, Meguro-ku; 81-3/5423-7000; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from 30,000) is a favorite of jet-setting execs like sonys Howard stringer. Its also just across the street from Yebisu garden Place, which has a Mitsukoshi department store.

LoCaTion theres nothing fancy about the royal Park Hotel (2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Kakigara-cho, Chuo-ku; 81-3/3667-1111; rph.co.jp/english/; doubles from 18,000), but for the location and price, its hard to beat. a walkway connects the hotel to the tokyo City air terminal, where hourly express buses depart for Narita (a 60-minute ride), while Marunouchi and ginza are just a few subway stations away.

EATBrisk BusinEss Located a block from the grand Hyatt, the Lauderdale (1st floor, Roppongi Hills, 6-15-1 Roppongi, Keyakizaka-dori; 81-3/3405-5533; lauderdale.co.jp/index.html; breakfast for two

Franciscobased Eight Inc., which gives onto tokyos skyline and serves up local delicacies such as steamed Japanese white asparagus and Wagyu tenderloin from Yamagata. Room two is the bar, blessed with a 2,000-strong wine list, mainly from the New World; an outdoor terrace offers stunning views.

AFTER HOURSdrink Japan is the land of the perfect cocktail, and tokyos top mixologists take their craft seriously: think tom Collinses served with ultra-fresh grapes and diamond-shaped carved ice. some of the best bars to sample these liquid works of art are in ginza. Operating since 1928, Lupin (Tsukamoto Fudosan Bldg., 5-5-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku; 81-3/3571-0750; lupin.co.jp; drinks for two 3,000 plus admission 800) counts writers Yasunari Kawabata, Kafu Nagai and Osamu Dazai among its patrons. a few blocks away is Star Bar (Basement, Sankosha Bldg.,

(1-1 Kamizono-cho, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; free entry). Close to the bustling heart of the citys Harajuku fashion district, the 90-year-old shrine sits on 71 hectares of forest. trails crisscrossing the grounds are open to the public.

1-5-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku; 81-3/3535-8005; starbar.jp/access.shtml; drinks for two 3,500 plus cover charge 1,000), helmed by 45-year-old head bartender Hisashi Kishi, former champion of the International Bartenders associations World Cocktail Competition.

sEE this month, join over a million people converging on the citys waterways for the edo river Fireworks Festival (August 7, 7:15 p.m.8:30 p.m.), an awesome display of pyrotechnics. In the Koenji district, see Japans leading practitioners of awa-odori perform at the Koenji Awa-odori Festival (August 2829; koenji-awaodori.com/indexEn.html). the frenetic dance style is believed to have originated four centuries ago on the southern island of shikoku.

unWind For an antidote to the city's chaos, take a walk through one of tokyos greenest spots: the Meiji Shrine

t r a v e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m | a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 29

1,800) offeres a welcome alternative to your average hotel breakfast. Come here for the spacious environment, efficient service and well-prepared Western staples such as souffl, pancakes and design-your-own salads.

imprEss a CLiEnT seating just 14, the two-Michelin-starred Sushi Kanesaka (Misuzu Bldg. B1, Ginza 8-10-3, Chuo-ku; 81-3/5568-4411; lunch for two 10,500) is the ultimate tokyo culinary experience. the 38-year-old proprietor-chef shinji Kanesaka has regular clients who include Kabuki actor Ebizo Ichikawa and contemporary artist takashi Murakami.

disCrEET dEaLs two rooms (5th floor, AO Building, 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; 81-3/3498-0002; tworooms.jp/en/access/; dinner for two 30,000), in Omotesando, is a space divided. Room One is the restaurant, designed by san

Work and Play opposite: the terrace at two rooms. clockwise from left: At the Westin tokyo; a cocktail at star Bar; the peninsula tokyo spares no expense; the meiji shrine, one of the citys greenest spots.


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HONG KONGFew places defi ne business more than this glittering city, where everyone seems to be in it for the money. Then again, thats its appeal. By CHRISTOPHER KUCWAY

STAYTOP END Long the business hotel in Hong Kong, the Mandarin Oriental (5 Connaught Rd.; 852/2522-0111; mandarinoriental.com; business packages from HK$3,080) never seems to lose any of its character. Its Business Plus package includes breakfast, local phone calls, Internet access andremember this at

check-inan upgrade to the next room category when available.

PRIME REAL ESTATE Amid the bustle of Tsim Sha Tsui, rooms at the Hyatt Regency (18 Hanoi Rd.; 852/ 2311-1234; hyatt.com; doubles from HK$1,400) offer wireless Internet, dataports, dual-line phones and a

separate work space, all in a modern setting. Whats more, its right above an MTR station, to minimize travel time.

GOOD VALUE Unlike higher-priced accommodation, the Hotel Jen (508 Queens Rd. W.; 852/2974-1234; hoteljen.com; doubles from HK$640) isnt close to the MTR, but you get what you pay for: clean, modern rooms with Internet access in a low-key neighborhood.

EATBRISK BUSINESS With a great early-morning view, The Lounge (8 Finance St.; 852/3196-8888; breakfast for two HK$400) at the Four Seasons is perfect for a

strategies |business travel

City Chic Clockwise from left: Hutong affords stunning harbor views; at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong; Hutongs signature deboned lamb ribs; The Lounge at the Four Seasons; the restaurants breakfast menu includes dim sum.

breakfast meeting. Top of the wide-ranging menu here is homemade granola with mixed berries, a number of fresh juices and great coffee, while a Hong Kong breakfast set offers dim sum favorites like har gao and siu long bao.

DISCREET DEALS For an alternative to Cantonese cuisine, try the northern fare at Hutong (28th fl oor, 1 Peking Rd.; 852/3428-8342; lunch for two HK$800) over a business lunch. Crispy deboned lamb ribs are a specialty here, but the restaurant is also noted for its harbor views, chili oil andbelieve it or not in a Chinese restaurantattentive staff.

IMPRESS A CLIENT If youre splashing out on a business dinner, the newly relocated Harlans (Level 19, The One; 100 Nathan Rd.; 852/2805-0566; dinner for two HK$1,600) is a great place for a hearty Mediterranean-inspired meal, whether that includes a prime cut of beef, lamb or venison fi llet.

AFTER HOURSDRINK Irish bars are almost akin to fast-food outlets with beer taps, there are so many of them. Just off Hollywood Road, Kila isnt a dank, dark place for a pint, but more of a modern take on the Celtic classic, opening up as it does to the cobbled street outside. And theres a healthy list of whiskey and bourbon on offer too. Upper Basement, 79 Wyndham St.; 852/2522-8118; drinks for two HK$200.

DO For a glimpse of the past, head to 1881 Heritage, which is holding an exhibit until mid-September that looks at the past century in Kowloon through photographs, videos and artifacts. Canton Rd.; 852/2926-8000; free admission.

UNWIND If youre one to get above it all, why not jog or walk around the Peak? Its a 3.5-kilometer trail that, when not in lush vegetation, offers spectacular views of the city or, on the far side, the South China Sea. 852/2522-0922.

From the downright cheap Star Ferry and the extensive MTR network to the modestly priced taxis, traveling around this compact city is a breeze. On arrival, your best bet remains the Airport Express (mtr.com.hk), which takes all of 25 minutes to reach Central. Our tip: A little

Cantonese will go a long way with taxi drivers, though remember that Kowloon-side cabbies dont know Hong Kong Islands streets, and vice versa.

GETTING AROUND


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Our guide to this up-and-coming Asian capital offers plenty of options for both work and play. By BRUNO LEE

KUALA LUMPUR

STAYLOCATION Right next door to the Petronas Towers, the Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur (Jln. Pinang; 60-3/2380-8888; mandarinoriental.com/kualalumpur; doubles from RM522) has the most envied location in town. Rooms and suites blend modern luxury with understated Malay design fl ourishes.

BUSINESS CHIC The Traders Hotel Kuala Lumpur (Kuala Lumpur City Centre; 60-3/2332-9888; shangri-la.com; doubles from RM455) offers spacious, minimalist rooms and complimentary broadband, as well as ultra-comfortable beds. An added bonus: the rooftop Sky Bar with its jaw-dropping cityscapes.

BOUTIQUE The 24-hour business center isnt the only reason to stay at the Hotel Maya (138, Jln. Ampang; 60-3/2711-8866; doubles from RM368; hotelmaya.com.my). In-room draws that set the place apart: parquet fl ooring, retro rubber-band chairs and a personal coffee machine.

EATBRISK BUSINESS Delicious (Ground fl oor, Marc Residence A-6-01, 3 Jln. Pinang; 60-3/2166-9099; delicious.com.my; breakfast for two RM64) is ideal for sealing an early-morning deal, and makes for a bright, airy alternative to a hotel buffet. An inventive menu highlights Australian-style big-breakfast fare such as corned-beef hash, together with Southeast Asian specialties like gado gado.

POWER LUNCH Just minutes from the Bukit Bintang area, Fukuya (9 Jln. Delima; 60-3/2144-1022; fukuya.com.my; lunch for two RM192) is a secluded converted residence featuring six private dining rooms. Famed for its kaiseki sets and fashion-shoot-location setting, this place makes all the right impressions.

IMPRESS A CLIENTMoody, broody lighting and sleek interiors defi ne the atmosphere at Third Floor Restaurant (3rd fl oor, JW Marriott, 183 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2141-3363; thirdfl oor.com.my; dinner for two RM705), the

fi ne-dining establishment of chef Ken Hoh, a major player in the citys gourmet scene. Sample the degustation menu for its array of French, Australian and Asianinfl ected dishes.

AFTER HOURSDRINK Head to off-the-radar Terrace (241-B Lorong Nibong, off Jln. Ampang; 60-17/209 8477; terrace.com.my; drinks for two RM48) at Hock Choon, a collection of nine restaurants and watering holes (including a poolside bar). Its just the place to swill a whiskey on the rocks while chatting to the friendly locals.

DO Catch a jazz performance at No Black Tie, or NBT (17 Jln. Mesui, off Jln. Nagasari; 60-3/2142-3737; noblacktie.com.my; drinks for two RM48), an upscale Japanese restaurant that doubles as a late-night drinking spot. The spaces great acoustics attract the best local and visiting international jazz acts in town. Arrive early to nab a seat.

UNWIND Book yourself a massage at the Kanebo International Salon (S21-25 Pamper fl oor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2144-1218; treatments from RM96; starhillgallery.com), which offers a hotel-spa experience at a fraction of a hotel-spa price. Try a full-body massage with a scrub and warm compress.


Although LRT and Monorail services exist here, their uses are limited: for instance, they dont

link Bukit Bintang and Kuala Lumpur City Centre, where many business travelers will spend their time. Your best bet is to take a taxi, though avoid touts outside shopping malls, and make sure your driver uses a meter. For maximum convenience, call for one in advance: Sunlight Radio Taxi (60-3/9057-1111) is reliable.

GETTING AROUND

Modern Kuala Lumpur.


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Compact, clean and supremely effi cient, Singapore is a business travelers dream. Below, our guide to makingthe most of the Lion City. By MELANIE LEE

SINGAPORE

STAYBOUTIQUE Nestled among charming shophouses, The Scarlet (33 Erskine Road; 65/6511-3333; thescarlethotel.com; doubles from S$320) is in fact right in the middle of the Central Business District and within walking distance to Chinatown. Dont be fooled by its vintage aesthetic; the hotels emphasis is on modern convenience, with complimentary high-speed Internet, and even laptops and mobile phones for rent.

LOCATION Being in the heart of Orchard Road means quick access to the business district and endless outlets for retail therapy. The sleek Concorde Hotel (100 Orchard Rd.; 65/6733-8855; singapore.concordehotelsresorts.com; doubles from S$218) offers Premier Lounge access for you and one guest if you book a Premier Room or Suite, plus private use of a meeting room.

location, authentic Italian fare and hearty two-course set lunch deal.

IMPRESS A CLIENT The award-winning Rang Mahal (7 Raffl es Blvd.; 65/6333-1788; rangmahal.com.sg; dinner for two S$160) restaurant at Pan Pacifi c gives Indian cuisineand its dinersthe royal treatment with its glamorous interiors, eclectic menu and gallant staff.

AFTER HOURSDRINK Hidden in a grassy suburb, Klee (5B Portsdown Rd; 65/6479-3997; drinks for two S$60) is a cozy cocktail bar with refreshing bespoke drinks; try their signature Old Fashioned, made with orange bitters, bourbon and whisky.

SEE Escape the corporate humdrum by way of Voyage de la Vie (65/6577-8899; rwsentosa.com/voyagedelavie; tickets from S$48), a multimedia rock-circus extravaganza staged by acclaimed British creative director Mark Fisher. Until September 30.

UNWIND Too much time spent hunched over a laptop? Banish any kinks at the award-winning Estheva Spa (2 Orchard Turn; 65/6509-3900; estheva.com; treatments from S$118) at ION Orchard. Try their signature Aviva massage, designed to improve blood circulation.

TOP END Its all about unsurpassed luxury at the St. Regis (24 Tanglin Rd.; 65/6506-6888; stregis.com/Singapore; doubles from S$475). Expect nothing less than your own personal butler and a chauffeur-driven Bentley throughout your stay, not to mention tailored secretarial and interpreting services.

EATDISCREET DEALS For quiet discussions in a laid-back atmosphere, The Knolls (1 The Knolls, Sentosa Island; 65/6591-5046; capellasingapore.com; buffet breakfast for two S$76), Capella Singapores all-day fi ne-dining restaurant, offers alfresco privacy and breathtaking views.

BRISK BUSINESS Italian eatery Capricci (27 Tanjong Pagar Rd.; 65/6221-6761; capricci.com.sg; lunch for two S$56) is popular with businessmen for its CBD


Singapores MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) system makes traveling around the city a cinch, especially with the

recently extended Circle Line. With even more stations peppered around town, its entirely possible to squeeze in several business meetings a day without ever hailing a cab log onto journeyplanner.smrt.com.sg for help in planning your route. Or, if you prefer to travel door-to-door, call Comfort and City Cab (cdgtaxi.com.sg; 65/6552-1111), which share a 24-hour hotline.

GETTING AROUND

Urban Ease From left: A ride from CityCab; at the St. Regis Singapore.


HIDDEN HOTEL FEESMore hotels are tacking surcharges onto the bill, whether theyre for in-room coffee or checking in early. MARK ORWOLL tells you what to watch out for and how to reverse unwanted add-ons.

M Y DISTASTE FOR HOTEL surcharges began years ago on my fi rst business trip, when I ate an entire jar of what appeared to be complimentary macadamia nuts. At checkout, I discovered it had cost me US$12 (and an upset stomach). And since then, the add-ons at hotels have gotten worse. The industry collected US$1.55 billion in surcharges in 2009, which indicates they may be here to stay.

But unlike with airlines, where travelers have no choice but to shell out for so-called extras, hotel guests can often negotiate. Here are some of the most common fees out there.

EARLY CHECK-IN Hotels used to go out of their way to accommodate early arriving guests. Now you just might have to pay to check in even a few hours ahead. Fees range from US$20 to a whopping US$50.

ENERGY SURCHARGE This fee is standard in the Caribbean, where youll pay anywhere from US$10 a night to as much as 10 percent of your entire bill to account for water and electricity use.

CREDIT CARD FEES Some properties in Thailand and many in Australia charge you up to 2 percent of your bill for using a card at checkout. (This is particularly unfair if the hotel requires a card number for booking.)

CHARITABLE DONATIONS Increasingly, hotels are adding a few dollars to your bill for a charity of their choice. Theyll remove the donation on requestbut should you have to ask?

IN-ROOM COFFEE AND TEA Hoteliers have set their sights on another amenity that used to be free: coffee. For instance, the Hyatt Regency Cancn asks US$6 for in-room coffee service.

CONVERSION FEES If your overseas hotel offers to bill you in your local currency, decline. The hotel will charge a fee of up to 4 percent for this unnecessary service, more than most credit card companies charge for conversions (usually 3 percent).

HOUSEKEEPING Some properties now charge guests for that most basic of expectations: cleanliness. In the Bahamas, the British Colonial Hilton Nassau tacks on US$5 a day per person.

TOWEL FINES Forget to return your pool towel, pay a fi ne. At least, thats the rule at Sandals Negril, in Jamaica (US$10) and the Westin Resort & Spa, Puerto Vallarta (US$32).

PERSONAL SAFE Youll fi nd this annoying charge (US$1 to US$3 a day) at many properties, especially in the United States. CO

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Be proactive. Ask when you book if there are any mandatory charges that will be added to your bill.

Check your bill carefully before you pay. Its easier

to dispute a charge at checkout than afterward.

Calmly object if you think a fee is unfair or was not

disclosed in advance. Desk clerks often have the authority to remove them.

If not, ask to speak to the manager.

Join the hotel chains frequent-guest programs. Bene ts include amenities that might otherwise be

surcharged, as well as free local and long-distance domestic calls and an Internet connection.

HOW TO MINIMIZE EXTRA

FEES

Energy US$50.00Housekeeping 25.00Towel Deposit 32.00Conversion Fee 125.00Credit Card Fee 100.00

ADD IT UP:EXTRA CHARGES

Daily maid service is no longer a given at many properties.

Watch out for this fee at beach resorts if you forget to return your towel.

Theres no reason to pay twice for currency conversion; your credit card company does this automatically for a charge.

Utilities are surcharged across the Caribbean up to 10 percent of the total bill.

Many Australian hotels require a credit card to book, and then tack on up to a 2 percent surcharge when you use it to pay.

strategies |business travel

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Just because you booked a standard room,

doesnt mean you have to stay in one. T+L

gives you seven ways to sleep better.

1. GO WHERE THERE ARE EMPTY ROOMS During the economic downturn,

certain destinations have had lower

occupancy rates, particularly those with

high room counts. Hotels that cant sell

expensive suites bump people up so they

can resell the standard rooms, which are in

higher demand, explains Nicole Hockin, a

spokesperson for Hotels.com. Likewise, look

to resorts in the off- and shoulder seasons,

when fewer suites are booked.

2. BOOK THE RIGHT WAY A luxury travel agent whos af liated with a network such

as Virtuoso, which includes travel agents

like Exotissimo and Imperial Tours, can

sometimes get you bumped up to the next

room category.

3. GO STANDBY Hyatt recently partnered with E-standby to allow guests booking on

Hyatt.com to pay a small fee as little as

US$30 for the chance at a space-available

upgrade. Hilton Worldwide offers a similar

program for its guests.

4. BE CARD SAVVY At many hotels, booking with a Centurion or Platinum card

from American Express can get you a

better room, in some cases automatically.

Charging everyday purchases on a hotel-

af liated credit card can help you earn

upgrades, too regardless of whether

youre actually staying at the hotel.

5. USE YOUR CONNECTIONS If you bank with Merrill Lynch, UBS or HSBC, you can

often book an upgraded Ritz-Carlton

package though the banks member

bene ts programs. Occasionally, hotels

partner with airlines in ways that can

bene t you, too. Business- and rst-class

passengers on Singapore Airlines ights, for

example, receive automatic upgrades at

Raf es hotels.

6. CHECK IN LATER The later you check

in after noon (when most hotels require

guests to check out), the better your

chances for securing an upgrade, especially

if youre staying only one night. Rooms are

less likely to be sold later in the day. Plus, its

more likely that housekeeping has turned

them over.

7. BE LOYAL Many hotel chains give

priority to their loyalty program members

based on how often they stay at their

hotels. Make sure you use your loyalty

member number every time you book a

hotel room, particularly at large chains such

as Starwood.

SCORE A HOTEL UPGRADE


HIDDEN HOTEL FEESMore hotels are tacking surcharges onto the bill, whether theyre for in-room coffee or checking in early. MARK ORWOLL tells you what to watch out for and how to reverse unwanted add-ons.

M Y DISTASTE FOR HOTEL surcharges began years ago on my fi rst business trip, when I ate an entire jar of what appeared to be complimentary macadamia nuts. At checkout, I discovered it had cost me US$12 (and an upset stomach). And since then, the add-ons at hotels have gotten worse. The industry collected US$1.55 billion in surcharges in 2009, which indicates they may be here to stay.

But unlike with airlines, where travelers have no choice but to shell out for so-called extras, hotel guests can often negotiate. Here are some of the most common fees out there.

EARLY CHECK-IN Hotels used to go out of their way to accommodate early arriving guests. Now you just might have to pay to check in even a few hours ahead. Fees range from US$20 to a whopping US$50.

ENERGY SURCHARGE This fee is standard in the Caribbean, where youll pay anywhere from US$10 a night to as much as 10 percent of your entire bill to account for water and electricity use.

CREDIT CARD FEES Some properties in Thailand and many in Australia charge you up to 2 percent of your bill for using a card at checkout. (This is particularly unfair if the hotel requires a card number for booking.)

CHARITABLE DONATIONS Increasingly, hotels are adding a few dollars to your bill for a charity of their choice. Theyll remove the donation on requestbut should you have to ask?

IN-ROOM COFFEE AND TEA Hoteliers have set their sights on another amenity that used to be free: coffee. For instance, the Hyatt Regency Cancn asks US$6 for in-room coffee service.

CONVERSION FEES If your overseas hotel offers to bill you in your local currency, decline. The hotel will charge a fee of up to 4 percent for this unnecessary service, more than most credit card companies charge for conversions (usually 3 percent).

HOUSEKEEPING Some properties now charge guests for that most basic of expectations: cleanliness. In the Bahamas, the British Colonial Hilton Nassau tacks on US$5 a day per person.

TOWEL FINES Forget to return your pool towel, pay a fi ne. At least, thats the rule at Sandals Negril, in Jamaica (US$10) and the Westin Resort & Spa, Puerto Vallarta (US$32).

PERSONAL SAFE Youll fi nd this annoying charge (US$1 to US$3 a day) at many properties, especially in the United States. CO

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Be proactive. Ask when you book if there are any mandatory charges that will be added to your bill.

Check your bill carefully before you pay. Its easier

to dispute a charge at checkout than afterward.

Calmly object if you think a fee is unfair or was not

disclosed in advance. Desk clerks often have the authority to remove them.

If not, ask to speak to the manager.

Join the hotel chains frequent-guest programs. Bene ts include amenities that might otherwise be

surcharged, as well as free local and long-distance domestic calls and an Internet connection.

HOW TO MINIMIZE EXTRA

FEES

Energy US$50.00Housekeeping 25.00Towel Deposit 32.00Conversion Fee 125.00Credit Card Fee 100.00

ADD IT UP:EXTRA CHARGES

Daily maid service is no longer a given at many properties.

Watch out for this fee at beach resorts if you forget to return your towel.

Theres no reason to pay twice for currency conversion; your credit card company does this automatically for a charge.

Utilities are surcharged across the Caribbean up to 10 percent of the total bill.

Many Australian hotels require a credit card to book, and then tack on up to a 2 percent surcharge when you use it to pay.

strategies |business travelF

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Just because you booked a standard room,

doesnt mean you have to stay in one. T+L

gives you seven ways to sleep better.

1. GO WHERE THERE ARE EMPTY ROOMS During the economic downturn,

certain destinations have had lower

occupancy rates, particularly those with

high room counts. Hotels that cant sell

expensive suites bump people up so they

can resell the standard rooms, which are in

higher demand, explains Nicole Hockin, a

spokesperson for Hotels.com. Likewise, look

to resorts in the off- and shoulder seasons,

when fewer suites are booked.

2. BOOK THE RIGHT WAY A luxury travel agent whos af liated with a network such

as Virtuoso, which includes travel agents

like Exotissimo and Imperial Tours, can

sometimes get you bumped up to the next

room category.

3. GO STANDBY Hyatt recently partnered with E-standby to allow guests booking on

Hyatt.com to pay a small fee as little as

US$30 for the chance at a space-available

upgrade. Hilton Worldwide offers a similar

program for its guests.

4. BE CARD SAVVY At many hotels, booking with a Centurion or Platinum card

from American Express can get you a

better room, in some cases automatically.

Charging everyday purchases on a hotel-

af liated credit card can help you earn

upgrades, too regardless of whether

youre actually staying at the hotel.

5. USE YOUR CONNECTIONS If you bank with Merrill Lynch, UBS or HSBC, you can

often book an upgraded Ritz-Carlton

package though the banks member

bene ts programs. Occasionally, hotels

partner with airlines in ways that can

bene t you, too. Business- and rst-class

passengers on Singapore Airlines ights, for

example, receive automatic upgrades at

Raf es hotels.

6. CHECK IN LATER The later you check

in after noon (when most hotels require

guests to check out), the better your

chances for securing an upgrade, especially

if youre staying only one night. Rooms are

less likely to be sold later in the day. Plus, its

more likely that housekeeping has turned

them over.

7. BE LOYAL Many hotel chains give

priority to their loyalty program members

based on how often they stay at their

hotels. Make sure you use your loyalty

member number every time you book a

hotel room, particularly at large chains such

as Starwood.

SCORE A HOTEL UPGRADE

strategies | smart traveler


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A SURVIVAL GUIDE TO TAXISCabs in Asia are cheap and plentiful, but sometimes unreliable or downright dodgy. Here are our tips to avoiding headaches. By JENNIFER CHEN

IN 1851, LONDON INTRODUCED THE Knowledge, a notorious test of 25,000 streets, 1,400 landmarks and 400 routes that would-be

cabbies to this day must master in order to obtain a license. Try and direct a London cabbie, and hell swiftly put you down. And rightly soit takes two to four years to acquire The Knowledge.

Alas, no such test exists in Asia, and the experience of riding in a taxi can veer wildly from country to country. Singapore has perhaps the regions most reliable cabbies; drivers undergo both background and medical checks. Hong Kong and Japan, too, have a raft of

regulations. Elsewhere in Asia, though, hailing a cab can be like playing Russian roulette. Ive spent a lot of time in taxis throughout Asia, and here are some general rules that I follow to ensure a smooth ride.

1 GET THE ADDRESS OF YOUR DESTINATION WRITTEN DOWN IN THE LOCAL LINGO Even if you think you know how to pronounce a name, chances are it will come out wrong. I once spent 10 minutes repeatedly directing a Bangkok driver to the Oriental Hotel. Oh-li-an-tan! he fi nally exclaimed. In China,

most drivers dont read pinyin, so ask your concierge to write down the address in Chinese characters.

2 LOOK AT A MAP TO GET A ROUGH IDEA OF WHERE YOURE GOING Being taken for a ride is a common complaint. Instead, arm yourself with a basic idea of the route.

3 CHECK THAT HE KNOWS WHERE HES GOING In Shanghai, Singapore and Hong Kong, drivers are usually old- timers. But in other cities, cabbies are

often out-of-towners who just arrived yesterday. Some drivers will tell you fl at out that they dont know where theyre going. Others will just repeat the address endlessly. If the latter happens and youre in an unfamiliar city, dont take your chances and hop out.

4 ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE CHANGE ON YOU Singapore cabbies take credit cards, while drivers in Taipei and Tokyo miraculously keep stacks of change. Youll have no such luck in other Asian cities. Have a stash of bills in the smallest denominations.

5 BAD VIBES? GET OUT AND HAIL ANOTHER ONE Especially as a woman traveling alone, if your driver is asking too many questions or is giving you the heebie-jeebies, get him to pull over. In most Asian cities, theres usually another one not too far off.

6 CHECK THE BACKSEAT BEFORE LEAVINGSingapore is the only city that Ive been to where a driver actually returned a mobile phone that was left behind. In Bangkok, some drivers will actually swerve in the hope that your valuable iPhone pops out unnoticed from your pockets.

7 BOOK OVER THE PHONE WHENEVER POSSIBLEIn Jakarta, where cab drivers have an unsavory reputation, the Blue Bird taxi group (62-21/7917-1234 or 794-1234) offers reliable staff and clean cars. They also operate in Bali (62-361/701-111) and a few other Indonesian cities.

8 LOOK FOR A COMPANY NAME OR KNOW YOUR COLORS When youre hailing a cab off the street in Jakarta, look for a company name emblazoned on the

sidetheyre usually more reputable. In Bangkok, the taxis are as color-coded as the politics. Yellow-and-green cabs are usually better because theyre owned by drivers (though they sometimes rent their vehicles to others and arent always in the best of shape). Green cabs are run by Howa, a solid company. Pink taxis might be colorful and ubiquitous, but Ive had rotten luck with them.

9 KNOW YOUR RIGHTSCabbies in Kuala Lumpur often refuse to turn on their meters. My stand? Someone else can have my business. Many Asian cities have taxi complaint hotlinesnumbers are usually listed in the back seatbut outside of Hong Kong and Singapore, responses arent always effective. Still, take note of a drivers name and registration number.

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Night Moves.Hong Kong comes alive after hours at these new hot spots

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insider | newsfl ash


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SEOUL STREETSThe up-and-coming neighborhood just west of Seouls grand Gyeongbokgung Palace has picturesque side streets, trendy design cafs and chic galleries. By F E L I C I A S H E LTO N

1. PLAN B CAFJava is the main draw at this sunny space with its sleek glass faade. Relax amid pre-loved furniture restored by owner Tae-woo Yim, who grinds and brews coffee beans to perfection; dont miss his secret hand-dripped blend. 108 Yoengchunum-gil, Tongui-dong, Jongno-gu; 82-11/9701-4647; coffee for two KRW12,000. 3. GAGARIN

This tiny secondhand bookstore, courtesy ofthe team behind MK2, is stocked to the brim with photography, ne-art and design books in English and Korean. Youll also nd funky stationery and kitsch ea-market items. 122-22 Changseong-dong, Jongno-

august 2010

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