WOMENSWEARAutumn/Winter 2016-17With the American and Brittan sensibilities chalking out the biggest reigning trends for the coming season, it is the Italians and French that broaden our horizons to the various possibilities in shape, colour, fabric and style associated to that very same trend. 1970s, 1980s and androgyny were the dominant looks where velvet and fur remained the most popular fabric, and patchwork, quilting and fringing were the details that caught our eye.This was the direction for carrying androgyny looks on the runway. While ornamentation was kept on the down low- functionality and protection against the cold were top priority - the designers were feeling a little more frivolous. Patchwork has become the luxury market’s way of setting itself apart from other market segments with tricky piecing together of fabrics or working of print. In our report, you’ll discover which themes, silhouettes and details will rise to the top of retail in Fall 2016-17..

The Mod Mini Puff Sleeves Cape Cover Turtlenecks Jumpsuits

Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2016-17 | womenswear | FFT magazine

fashion capitals, unanimously,

celebrated the 60s-70s era from spring to fall, Paris lived through a parallel decadeof its own – the 80s! Isabel Marant’s vintage references included high-waisted skinny pants, oversized cropped jackets that had sharp sculpted shoulders (resembling power suits) and thick waist-tie belts. Carven’s vision was presented with

with crackle print knits. Sacai’s zip neck sweater dress with ribbed waist was a perfect 80s interpretation in big bishop sleeves.Another designer who used exaggerated sleeves in their collection was Loewe where slouchy blouses stood out in leather and high-necked dresses in lame, styledwith roomy tailored pants constructed in grey wool and oversized brown aviators.

Designers

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Designers3 Carven4 Topshop Unique

1 Louis Vuitton2 Emilio Pucci

puffsleeves

1 Carven2 Isabel Marant3 Sacai4 Loewe

tanding in completecontradiction to the 70sSmaxi, Mary Quant

wasthe genius behind Twiggy’s iconic mini skirt and dress length that was introduced in the 60s, only to gain momentum a decadelater. Designers at the Fall 2015-16 shows moved away from the boho-chic and went for thigh-skimmingA-line shapes in dresses and skirts. Louis Vuitton,

Emilio Pucci, Carven, Cédric Charlier, Giambattista Valli, Topshop Unique, Jonathan Saunders, all styled their minis with turtleneck knits and the fabrics rangedfrom patterned shiny leather, wool, neoprene and embellished. The mod mini came to life with layeringof short coats and knits and the skirts varied in terms of being buttoned up, belted or zipped up at the waist.

the mod mini

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Fashion Forward Trends autumn/winter 2016-17 | womenswear | FFT magazine

turtleneck tops and sweaters were critical to Fall 2015

which started in the 15th century when they became the anti-tie for professionals and a favourite separate for Audrey Hepburn. They were all over the runways, coyly layered beneath blazers, jumpsuits, strappy dresses and pinafores at Thakoon, Sea, Tanya Taylor and Zimmermann. J. Crew built them into slouchy sweaters

while Proenza Schouler’s clingy and revealing knit dresses included long- sleeved turtlenecks. There were exaggerated versions at Edun and Richard Chai, as well as exaggerated funnel necks at DKNY. High necks featured on knitwear piecesat Paul Smith were square cut and navy, Topshop Unique had cream Arran and Vivienne Westwood, an orange cowl- turtleneck hybrid.

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Designers3 Tommy Hilfiger4 Vionnet

1 Lacoste2 Versace

turtlenecks

1 Jonathan Saunders2 DKNY3 Tanya Taylor4 Vivienne Westwood Red Label

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he spring cape wasa 1920s coat thatTwas usually a

formalevening wrap. By now, capes are so entrenched in Fall 2015’s dictionary that it was expected to see them included in the collections. In tweeds, shearling, wool and leather, capes were seen at Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and Lacoste to name a few. Lanvin and Lemaire revealed versions

befitting of the most gallant men on horseback; Sonia Rykiel paired her velvet cape which fell to the ankle, with a matching printed velvet jumpsuit. At Kenzo, capes came in weatherproofed poncho shapes or knitted forms and at Chloé, the sleeves of a grey woolpea coat were given such flare that the whole thing resembled a cape more than a coat.

capecover

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Fashion Forward Trends

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Designers3 Zimmermann4 Prabal Gurung

1 Diane Von Furstenberg2 Mara Hoffman

ating back to 1919and Bianca JaggerDpopularizing them

in the 70s and 80s, the jumpsuit trend isn’t over just yet. The many clever versions incorporated short- sleeved forms with Red Valentino’s floral ensemble or in denim by Frame, Seaand Rachel Antonoff. Things got subtler during Diane Von Furstenburg’s polka dot 70s flashback, far more formal in Prabal Gurung’s tuxedo styling

and sublimely streamlined at Narciso Roderiguez. Since the market has responded positively to overalls, working these jumpsuits into Fall’s assortments was an easy choice for most. Utilitarian styling, with boxy cuts and work wear detailing are one option, and evening wear cuts in silk is another. Notto forget, with the season’s inclination for denim, one can experiment with denim jumpsuits.

jumpsuits

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