AW Extra 122613 ndash Adirondack Loveseatpopularwoodworkingcom projectsaw-extra-122613-adirondack-loveseat

Adirondack Loveseat

Itrsquos just as comfortable as it looks

About This Project Our Adirondack two-seater is based on one built by Jack Priest as a centerpiece for the deckoutside his sonrsquos restaurant The Tin Fish overlooking Lake Calhoun in Minneapolis Minnesota Our design isslightly different from his Wersquove changed the arms and their supports a bit as well as the backrsquos profile but thatrsquoswhat Adirondacks are all about Once yoursquove got the basic structure down itrsquos easy to customize an Adirondack any

122

way you want Adirondack chairs represent all thatrsquos best about American design theyrsquore practical with nounnecessary parts theyrsquore accessible because just about anyone who can cut wood can make one and theyrsquoreperfectly suited to their setting the great outdoors

An Adirondackrsquos low seat and broad arms invite you to slow down and take it easy Most Adirondacks are singlechairs of course A two-seater is something special Sharing the Adirondack experience with a friend makes it all thebetter

Materials and tools

This project is built from western red cedar construction lumber which is commonly available at home centers andlumberyards Yoursquoll need two 2times6 boards 8 ft long and nine pieces of 54 lumberndash1 in thick 5-12 in wide and 12ft long Dust from cutting western red cedar can be irritating so wear an appropriate dust mask and work in a well-ventilated shop or outdoors Use rust-resistant deck screws to assemble the project Yoursquoll need about 100 1-12-inscrews and 50 1-14-in screws Yoursquoll also need two inside-corner braces and 100 screw-hole plugs (see Sourcesbelow)

Yoursquoll use a tablesaw bandsaw (or jigsaw) router table 38-in roundover bit 30- degree chamfer bit cordless drilland a file for the project A miter saw is also handy

Make the legs and seat

1 The love seat sits on three back legs two on the sides (A1 Fig A below) and one in the center (A2) Theyrsquorevirtually identical except for one important detail the notch for the lower back rail (A5) is positioned farther back onthe center leg than on the outer legs (Fig H) To ensure that all the legs come out the same make one paper patternbased on the measurements given for the outer back leg (A1) Trace around the pattern on three leg blanks cut tothe same length omitting the notches Then draw the notches directly on the legs In addition set your miter saw to18 degrees and cut a miter on a scrap piece of 1times6 Use this piece to draw the angled lines that indicate the locationof the front legs Draw these lines on both sides of each outer leg

2 Saw the legs (Photo 1) Smooth the saw cuts with a file or 80-grit sandpaperwrapped around a block

3 Make the seat slats (A3) Discard pieces with large knotsmdashtheyrsquoll weaken the slats Drill holes for screws andplugs in the ends and middle of all the slats using a 38- in-dia combination countersinkcounterbore bit (Photo 2)Make the plug holes about 14-in deep Round the top edges of the slats and all other exposed edges as you buildthe project using a 38-in roundover bit mounted in a router table

4 Line up the front edges of all three legs Temporarily fasten a slat to the middle of each leg Glue and screw thefirst four slats (Photo 3)

5 Make the two pieces that comprise each front leg (B1 and B2) from one long board Rip the board to remove itsrounded edges This makes a better-looking joint when you glue the pieces together Cut one end of the blank at 18degrees then cut the inner leg to exact length (Fig E) Cut the outer leg to length then glue and screw together theleg pieces (Photo 4) Note that the two front legs are mirror images of each other

6 Apply glue to the front legs and clamp them to the back legs Use the lines you drew in Step 1 to position the frontlegs Drill holes in the front legs for screws and plugs then run in the screws (Photo 5)

7 Make the back seat slat (A4 Fig F) and lower back rail (A5 Fig G) Note that the inside curve on each end of the

222

lower back rail consists of three flat sections to receive three back slats The straighter these sections are thestronger your joints will be After sawing use a file to straighten these cuts if necessary Use a file to flatten the railrsquoscenter straight section too Drill holes for screws and plugs in the back seat slat and lower back rail then round overthe edges of both parts with a 38-in router bit Donrsquot round over the inner edge of the lower back rail where theback slats (D1 D2) go

8 Remove the seat slat you temporarily screwed to the back legs Glue and screw the lower back rail in positionScrew the back seat slat next to it but donrsquot glue it Add the rest of the seat slats Space them about 14- in apartTemporarily clamping some slats in position makes it easier to space them

9 Remove the back seat slat

Add the arm assembly

10 Rip two 54 pieces for each arm (C1) and glue them together (Photo 6) Cut each blank to length then saw outthe curves (Fig J) Sand the glue joint then round over both sides of the arm with a 14-in roundover bit Donrsquotround the curved section where the arm overlays the back rail

11 Make the upper back rail (C2) This piece has three straight sections on either side (Fig M) like the lower backrail Trace the curves of the arm pieces on the ends of the rail Cut out the rail using a bandsaw with the table set at90 degrees and straighten the flat sections with a file Rout a 30- degree bevel on the inside edge of the rail (Photo7) Leave a 18-in-thick blunt edge to guide the bitrsquos bearing

12 Glue and screw the arms to the upper back rail Note that the inside edge of each arm is square to the back rail(Fig C) and that the screws go from underneath the back rail and into the arms (Fig A)

13 Cut two temporary support pieces (C3) to hold and level the arm assembly Prop the assembly on these piecesand the front legs (Photo 8) Once the assembly is correctly positioned front-to-back and side-to-side (Fig D) clampit to the front legs so it canrsquot shift

Fit the back slats

14 Make a set of back slats (D1 and D2) You can rough-cut two slats from one 5-12-in wide 54 board using abandsaw Build a tapering jig and cut each slat using the tablesaw (Photo 9 and Fig K) The exact angles on theslatrsquos ends are not important

15 Drill screw-and-plug holes in the lower ends of the outer slats (D1) Mark the positions of these slats on the lowerback rail (Fig B) Clamp the slats in position (the top ends of the centermost slats touch each other) and marklocations for the screws that will go into the upper back rail Remove the slats drill the screw-and-plug holes thenattachndashbut donrsquot gluendashthe slats in place (Photo 10)

16 Install one of the inner back slats (D2) midway between the outer back slats It should be vertical Fit theremaining slats (Photo 11) Make the gap between them about 14-in After these slats are fitted mark their screw-and-plug holes and cut off any excess length at the bottom Then install the slats with screws but donrsquot use glueRepeat this process on the other side of the back

17 Make a trammel and find the center point of each half of the back (Fig L) Turn the trammel around and draweach curve (Photo 12)

322

18 Mark the position of all slats and remove them Bandsaw their top ends and round over all their edges Glue andscrew the slats back in place Cut a piece of paper to fit the gap between the two back sections Fold the paper inhalf and use it as a pattern to make two pieces (D3) to fill the gap Install these pieces

Support the arms

19 Connect the arms and legs with inside corner braces (Fig A) Use 10 or 12 pan head screws to install them

20 Cut two corbel blanks (B3) Rout stopped grooves on the inside edge of each blank to accommodate the cornerbrace and screw heads (Photo 13) Saw the corbelrsquos shape (Fig N) and round over its outside edges Make sureeach corbelrsquos top fits tight under the arm Drill screw-and-plug holes through the front legs and screw and glue thecorbels to the front legs (Photo 14)

Finishing steps

21 Install the back seat slat Glue plugs in all the screw holes Cut and sand them flush

22 Apply two coats of exterior oil finish Itrsquos best to do this outside for good ventilation Sit and enjoy

Cutting List

422

Fig A Exploded View

522

Fig B Slat Location

Fig C Arm and Back Rail Assembly

622

Fig D Cross Section

722

Fig E Front Leg

822

Fig F Back Seat Slat922

Fig G Lower Back Rail

Fig H Back Legs

1022

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

lower back rail consists of three flat sections to receive three back slats The straighter these sections are thestronger your joints will be After sawing use a file to straighten these cuts if necessary Use a file to flatten the railrsquoscenter straight section too Drill holes for screws and plugs in the back seat slat and lower back rail then round overthe edges of both parts with a 38-in router bit Donrsquot round over the inner edge of the lower back rail where theback slats (D1 D2) go

8 Remove the seat slat you temporarily screwed to the back legs Glue and screw the lower back rail in positionScrew the back seat slat next to it but donrsquot glue it Add the rest of the seat slats Space them about 14- in apartTemporarily clamping some slats in position makes it easier to space them

9 Remove the back seat slat

Add the arm assembly

10 Rip two 54 pieces for each arm (C1) and glue them together (Photo 6) Cut each blank to length then saw outthe curves (Fig J) Sand the glue joint then round over both sides of the arm with a 14-in roundover bit Donrsquotround the curved section where the arm overlays the back rail

11 Make the upper back rail (C2) This piece has three straight sections on either side (Fig M) like the lower backrail Trace the curves of the arm pieces on the ends of the rail Cut out the rail using a bandsaw with the table set at90 degrees and straighten the flat sections with a file Rout a 30- degree bevel on the inside edge of the rail (Photo7) Leave a 18-in-thick blunt edge to guide the bitrsquos bearing

12 Glue and screw the arms to the upper back rail Note that the inside edge of each arm is square to the back rail(Fig C) and that the screws go from underneath the back rail and into the arms (Fig A)

13 Cut two temporary support pieces (C3) to hold and level the arm assembly Prop the assembly on these piecesand the front legs (Photo 8) Once the assembly is correctly positioned front-to-back and side-to-side (Fig D) clampit to the front legs so it canrsquot shift

Fit the back slats

14 Make a set of back slats (D1 and D2) You can rough-cut two slats from one 5-12-in wide 54 board using abandsaw Build a tapering jig and cut each slat using the tablesaw (Photo 9 and Fig K) The exact angles on theslatrsquos ends are not important

15 Drill screw-and-plug holes in the lower ends of the outer slats (D1) Mark the positions of these slats on the lowerback rail (Fig B) Clamp the slats in position (the top ends of the centermost slats touch each other) and marklocations for the screws that will go into the upper back rail Remove the slats drill the screw-and-plug holes thenattachndashbut donrsquot gluendashthe slats in place (Photo 10)

16 Install one of the inner back slats (D2) midway between the outer back slats It should be vertical Fit theremaining slats (Photo 11) Make the gap between them about 14-in After these slats are fitted mark their screw-and-plug holes and cut off any excess length at the bottom Then install the slats with screws but donrsquot use glueRepeat this process on the other side of the back

17 Make a trammel and find the center point of each half of the back (Fig L) Turn the trammel around and draweach curve (Photo 12)

322

18 Mark the position of all slats and remove them Bandsaw their top ends and round over all their edges Glue andscrew the slats back in place Cut a piece of paper to fit the gap between the two back sections Fold the paper inhalf and use it as a pattern to make two pieces (D3) to fill the gap Install these pieces

Support the arms

19 Connect the arms and legs with inside corner braces (Fig A) Use 10 or 12 pan head screws to install them

20 Cut two corbel blanks (B3) Rout stopped grooves on the inside edge of each blank to accommodate the cornerbrace and screw heads (Photo 13) Saw the corbelrsquos shape (Fig N) and round over its outside edges Make sureeach corbelrsquos top fits tight under the arm Drill screw-and-plug holes through the front legs and screw and glue thecorbels to the front legs (Photo 14)

Finishing steps

21 Install the back seat slat Glue plugs in all the screw holes Cut and sand them flush

22 Apply two coats of exterior oil finish Itrsquos best to do this outside for good ventilation Sit and enjoy

Cutting List

422

Fig A Exploded View

522

Fig B Slat Location

Fig C Arm and Back Rail Assembly

622

Fig D Cross Section

722

Fig E Front Leg

822

Fig F Back Seat Slat922

Fig G Lower Back Rail

Fig H Back Legs

1022

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

18 Mark the position of all slats and remove them Bandsaw their top ends and round over all their edges Glue andscrew the slats back in place Cut a piece of paper to fit the gap between the two back sections Fold the paper inhalf and use it as a pattern to make two pieces (D3) to fill the gap Install these pieces

Support the arms

19 Connect the arms and legs with inside corner braces (Fig A) Use 10 or 12 pan head screws to install them

20 Cut two corbel blanks (B3) Rout stopped grooves on the inside edge of each blank to accommodate the cornerbrace and screw heads (Photo 13) Saw the corbelrsquos shape (Fig N) and round over its outside edges Make sureeach corbelrsquos top fits tight under the arm Drill screw-and-plug holes through the front legs and screw and glue thecorbels to the front legs (Photo 14)

Finishing steps

21 Install the back seat slat Glue plugs in all the screw holes Cut and sand them flush

22 Apply two coats of exterior oil finish Itrsquos best to do this outside for good ventilation Sit and enjoy

Cutting List

422

Fig A Exploded View

522

Fig B Slat Location

Fig C Arm and Back Rail Assembly

622

Fig D Cross Section

722

Fig E Front Leg

822

Fig F Back Seat Slat922

Fig G Lower Back Rail

Fig H Back Legs

1022

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

Fig A Exploded View

522

Fig B Slat Location

Fig C Arm and Back Rail Assembly

622

Fig D Cross Section

722

Fig E Front Leg

822

Fig F Back Seat Slat922

Fig G Lower Back Rail

Fig H Back Legs

1022

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

Fig B Slat Location

Fig C Arm and Back Rail Assembly

622

Fig D Cross Section

722

Fig E Front Leg

822

Fig F Back Seat Slat922

Fig G Lower Back Rail

Fig H Back Legs

1022

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

Fig D Cross Section

722

Fig E Front Leg

822

Fig F Back Seat Slat922

Fig G Lower Back Rail

Fig H Back Legs

1022

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

Fig E Front Leg

822

Fig F Back Seat Slat922

Fig G Lower Back Rail

Fig H Back Legs

1022

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

Fig F Back Seat Slat922

Fig G Lower Back Rail

Fig H Back Legs

1022

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

Fig G Lower Back Rail

Fig H Back Legs

1022

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

Fig J Arm

1122

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

1222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

Fig K Back Slats and Tapering Sled

Fig L Drawing the Backrsquos Curve

1322

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

Fig M Upper Back Rail

Fig N Corbel

1422

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

1 Begin building the love seat by sawing out the back legs from a western red cedar 2times6 Yoursquoll get the mostaccurate cuts by using a bandsaw but you could use a jigsaw instead

2 Joinery is simple just screws and glue Yoursquoll cover every screw hole with a plug later on As you build the loveseat drill holes for the plugs and screws simultaneously with a combination bit

1522

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

3 Assemble the seat Fasten the first four seat slats which are made from 54 cedar boards Check for square asyou go Temporarily add a slat to space the legs the correct distance

4 Screw and glue together the front legs Use a water-resistant glue to assemble all the parts of the project

1622

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

5 Glue and screw the front legs to the seat assembly Then add the rest of the seat slats and the lower back railwhich sits in the notches on the back legs Assembly is much easier if you work on a large flat surface such as adoor

1722

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

6 Glue the arms together from two pieces of 54 material To make a tight invisible joint first remove the roundededges of this construction lumber by ripping the boards on the tablesaw

7 Rout a 30- degree bevel on the upper back rail using a router table The love seatrsquos back slats lean against thispiece with an accurately made bevel yoursquoll get tight strong joints

1822

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

8 Add the arm and upper back rail assembly Stand it on two supports and adjust its position until the bevel yourouted is in line with the lower back rail Check this with a straightedge

9 Taper the back slats using a jig for your tablesaw Mount toggle clamps on the jig to keep your fingers away fromthe blade

1922

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

10 Spacing the love seatrsquos back slats requires careful measuring and marking Begin by temporarily installing thefour slats that define the two halves of the back

11 Fasten the middle slats next Then install two slats between the middle and outer slats Adjust these slats upor down to make the spacing even

2022

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

12 Draw a curve across the back using a shopmade trammel Thatrsquos just a stick with a nail at one end and a pencilstuck in a hole on the other end Remove the slats and cut the curve on each piece

13 Rout grooves on the ends and inner edges of the corbels the wing-shaped pieces that support the love seatrsquosbroad arms These grooves hide metal braces under the arms

2122

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222

14 Fasten the corbels to the legs with glue and screws The brace allows you to safely lift the love seat by itsarms

15 Once every part is in place glue plugs in each screw hole Cut the excess with a flush-cutting saw

2222