back to black: a dial trend that's here to stay / trend report n°20
TRANSCRIPT
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
INTRODUCTION.........................................03
SNAPSHOT OF THE PERIOD
Trending Topics...........................................05
Volume of Conversations......................07
ANALYZING THE SOCIAL BUZZ
Among Influencers...................................10
Beyond Influencers....................................12
THE BACKGROUND...................................13
BEHIND THE TREND.................................16
READ THE TREND.....................................21
THE METHOD...............................................22
THE FOUNDATION’S MISSION...........23
INTRODUCTION
This series of trend reports are a collaboration between London-based agency RE-UP and the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. They will look back over the past two weeks and
discover what’s been ‘trending’ online.
We aim to discover which watches, stories and industrial developments in the world of horology gain the most amount of coverage on the digital sphere - uncovering why these
trends are important.
TRENDING TOPICS AND STORIESFROM 25TH JANUARY TO 7TH FEBRUARY
Percentage of conversation about Fine Watchmaking* brands penetrated by the topic on a sample of 1,000 articles*Fine Watchmaking defined by the parameters set by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie in their White Paper report
The aftermath of SIHH and the event was still trending
With several black dial watches being unveiled at SIHH a new trend started emerging
At SIHH Richard Mille unveiled the RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1, the lightest mechanical chronograph ever
At SIHH Cartier re-introduced the Panthère collection, revamping the 80’s classic
Glashütte released the Original Sixties Square, a set of five colourful limited edition chronographs
13.3%
8.65%
6.65%
3.27%
1.89%
Among Influencers
12.42%Penetration of conversations
by the expression ‘black dial’ in Swiss watch related
conversations
0.92%Penetration of all
conversations by the expression ‘black dial’
11.11%Decrease of ‘black dial’
mentions against the previous two weeks
Beyond Influencers
8,810All online mentions of
‘black dial’
6.53%Increase of ‘black dial’ mentions against the previous two weeks
88.27%Of mentions of ‘black dial’ in
relation to Swiss Watches
THE BACKGROUND
Black dials are a welcome edition to any collection, but SIHH saw black dialed watches take centre stage.
In a SIHH which saw the extension of entry-level ranges and useful complications taking precedence, it was
almost predictable that the utilitarian black dial would become more prominent, due to its use with contrasting
coloured cases for higher legibility.
From the Montblanc Timewalker to the Panerai PAM 684 Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic,
almost every brand exhibiting at SIHH 2017 had a black dialed watch within their collections.
Black dialed watches have always, and will always be a part of Fine Watchmaking. However, in a landscape where sales are dropping it’s important to see these brands reaching out to new consumers and listening to what the people want: classic forms and subdued
materials for a longer lasting, hard-wearing timepiece.
A prominent fashion trend in AW16, black took back hold of the catwalks with embroidery and different materials added to spice up standard pieces. Brands such as Dior
which even included black lipstick at their show, Alexander McQueen’s embellished coats with fuchsia embroidery and Givenchy’s all black show with a smattering of red to bring
vibrancy, all took hold of the trending black.
The trend has followed into Fine Watchmaking with black dials watches being given a facelift like no other during
SIHH. A prime example of this is the Richard Mille RM 50-03 Tourbillon Split Secs Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1. Despite being a skeleton watch, almost all its elements are black, however being hailed as the lightest mechanical watch ever at just 40g and with dash of red, this can be seen following the fashion trend by taking a black dialed
watch and adding more features to accentuate the colour.
The use of a utilitarian black dial opens into a wider trend of Fine Watchmaking last year and this year, one which sees brands trying to open the doors to a newer, younger audience. These luxury ‘world explorers’ need their functionality to be key and their timepieces to be hardwearing, hence the concurrent trend at SIHH this
year of practical complications.
Panerai’s quiet revolutionPanerai showcased several new innovations during SIHH 2017 hidden within black dialed watches
READ THE TREND
Baume & Mercier – Join the ClubBaume & Mercier’s Clifton Club collection showcased a black dialed version during SIHH 2017
THE METHOD
We use two key social listening tools to gather the raw data we have analysed for this report.
The first, an in-house bespoke database of 2000+ influencers and online sources within luxury and
watches - with the ability to gather insight into six month’s worth of online buzz.
The second, a social (and media) listening tool that looks at multiple keywords. This allows us to measure
and examine all online conversations over a set period.
The mechanical watch is a wonderful instrument and the guardian of craftsmanship, creativity
and of course, time.
Our objective here at the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, is to take our wealth of expertise into
the world through our four missions: to inform, train, recognise and organise.
Since 2005, we have promoted values of excellence and tradition within an organisation that has the support of
many Fine Watchmaking brands.
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