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Footwork
Footwork is about movement skills. While its obvious that racket skills are important in
badminton, many players underestimate the importance of good movement skills.
The importance of footwork
Badminton is a fast game; you have little time to respond after each shot. A seconds delay
often turns a winning situation into a losing one.
Reaching the shuttle early
Good footwork will help you to reach the shuttlecock early. This is desirable in all situations.
You should play your shots from the highest point you can. Dont allow the shuttlecock to
drop! Playing the shuttlecock from the highest point gives you options to hit downwards. You
dont necessarily have to use those options every time, but the mere threat of downwards
shots gives your opponents a lot more to worry about.
At the front of the court, taking the shuttlecock early has an especially dramatic effect. If you
reach it early, you can often play a net kill and end the rally at once; but if you delay even a
second, then you will lose the option to play a net kill, as the shuttlecock drops below net
height. You can still play a net shot, but thats not as good as a kill.
At the back of the court, you want to hit the shuttlecock overhead at full relaxed reach. Reach
upwards! Allowing the shuttlecock to drop here is fatal! You will be forced to play a weak
shot; when the shuttlecock is below net height, most players struggle to play a good-length
clear, and obviously a smash is impossible.
Its also much better to get behind the shuttlecock at the back of the court. This gives you a
more threatening smash, and makes all your overhead shots easier. If you are slow to move
backwards, then you may be forced to hit the shuttlecock from behind your body. Its still
possible to play smashes, clears, and drops; but its much more difficult, and your smashes
will be less powerful.
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Prevention of injuries
Poor footwork often leads to injuries. Many of these can be prevented with only a few
minutes instruction in safe footwork.
In particular, all players should learn good lunge technique.
The ready position
Your ready position is the stance and position that you want to reach beforeyour opponent
hits the shuttlecock.
Its called the ready position because it helps you get ready for the next shot.
Your actual position on court will vary a lot depending on whether you are playing singles or
doubles, and also depending on the circumstances during the rally.
(For the basic positions in doubles, read about doubles positioning.)
Although there are many variations, its still good to learn a basic ready position. Once you
understand these basic ideas, you can adapt the ready position for different situations.
Elements of the ready position
Stance
You should be ready with a somewhat wide stance: your feet a little more than shoulder-width apart. You cannot simply stand there, feet together, as though waiting for a bus!
Your weight should be lowered a little, with your knees slightly bent. Your weight should be
shifted forwards a little, so that you are on the balls of your toes.
This does not mean that you should be perched uncomfortably on your tiptoes, leaning
forwards so much that you almost fall over! Rather, you need to lean forwards just enough to
take the weight off your heels. Failure to do this will leave you flat footed.
Your right foot should be slightly ahead of your left footonly about half a foot length
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ahead. This position is effective for covering all four corners of the court (Ill explain why
later when we look at singles footwork).
Racket carriage
Your badminton racket position varies a lot depending on the situation. It should never be left
to dangle near your ankles, however. Bring your racket up!Your racket should be held out in
front of you, and away from your body. Typically you will hold it about waist height; but
youll hold it higher when attacking and lower when defending.
Your left arm
Dont forget that you have two arms! Although your left arm does not hit the shuttlecock, it
affects your balance a great deal.
Your left arm should be used to balance your right arm and racket. In the ready position, this
generally means holding it in front of your body and slightly out to the side.
Never leave your left arm dangling at your side!
Elements of badminton movement
Badminton footwork patterns use a variety of basic movement elements; this page gives a
brief overview.
The professionals make it look easy. When you watch their footwork, youll often get the
feeling that they are gliding effortlessly around the court. They make the court look smaller
than it really is.
What youre observing here is fluid footwork. Each movement flows seamlessly into the next,
and every movement is made without hesitation. Professional badminton players know
exactly which footwork patterns to use, without having to think: their vast experience allows
them to select the right patterns instinctively.
Learning this quality of footwork takes a long time. Before you can put it all together, youneed to become familiar and comfortable with the basic elements of badminton movement.
Steps
Steps are the most natural element of badminton movement. Everyone knows how to put one
foot in front of the other!
But in badminton, you need to be comfortable stepping in all directions: forwards,
backwards, sideways, and diagonally. Everyone is comfortable stepping forwards; but ask
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people to step backwards quickly and without looking, and youll find few people who
succeed on their first attempt.
But this is fundamental to badminton. You must learn to be comfortable taking large, fast
steps backwards.
To distinguish steps from chasss, we often describe steps in badminton as cross-overs. For
example, I might say something like this: Try using a cross-over instead of a chass.
Chasss
The word chass means chase in French. Imagine that one foot is chasing the other, but never
quite catches up. The leading foot often points in the direction of travel, but not always. For
example, a typical backwards chass for an overhead forehand keeps the leading foot
pointing sideways, not backwards.
The following foot always points at right-angles to the direction of travel. For example, if you
are chassing to your right, then your left foot (the following foot) will be pointing roughly
forwards.
When chassing, keep your movements long and low. A high, bouncy chass is useless;
remember that your purpose is to cover distance quickly.
Hitches
A hitch is a fast, short movement along the ground that uses mainly the ankles.
You must start with a wide base (legs wide apart). Your feet must be aligned in the direction
you want to travel (imagine drawing a line between the feet).
To perform a hitch, push off with both ankles, so that you spring lightly along the ground.
You should travel a short distance very quickly, without having moved your legs.
These movements are much neglected in badminton coaching. Indeed, they are ignored to
such an extent that we dont even have a standard name for them! The term hitch is obscure,
but I cant find a better alternative.
Hitches are sometimes called shuffles or hops.
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Jumps
Jumping is fundamental to badminton movement, especially in the rearcourt.
Jumps can be in any direction. You can push off with one or two feet, and land with one or
two feet (a two-footed landing is greatly preferred when possible, because its kinder on your
knees).
When most players think about jumping in badminton, they imagine the jump smash. A jump
smash involves jumping for height, so that you can smash with a steeper angle.
Although a big jump smash is a fearsome shot, its also advanced and specialist. There are
many other, more useful jumps in badmintonthe subtler jumps that help you cover the court
faster.
In particular, jumping is useful for playing overhead forehands. In most situations, you
should get both feet off the ground at least for a moment, while you are playing an overhead
forehand shot.
Lunges
Lunges are useful in all corners of the court, but especially at the front. Lunges can be in any
direction, but you always lunge in the direction you are moving.
At the net, a lunge allows you to reach forwards to take the shuttlecock early, while also
preparing to recover to a more central position.
Good lunging technique is very important, both for your speed of movement and also to
prevent injuries.
The split drop
The split drop is a technique for making a quick start, when you dont know in advance
which way you will need to go.
This skill is so important that Ive devoted a separate page to explaining the split drop(and
Ill probably write several more pages about it later!).
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The ready position
Your ready position is the stance and position that you want to reach beforeyour opponent
hits the shuttlecock.
Its called the ready position because it helps you get ready for the next shot.
Your actual position on court will vary a lot depending on whether you are playing singles or
doubles, and also depending on the circumstances during the rally.
(For the basic positions in doubles, read about doubles positioning.)
Although there are many variations, its still good to learn a basic ready position. Once you
understand these basic ideas, you can adapt the ready position for different situations.
Elements of the ready position
Stance
You should be ready with a somewhat wide stance: your feet a little more than shoulder-
width apart. You cannot simply stand there, feet together, as though waiting for a bus!
Your weight should be lowered a little, with your knees slightly bent. Your weight should be
shifted forwards a little, so that you are on the balls of your toes.
This does not mean that you should be perched uncomfortably on your tiptoes, leaning
forwards so much that you almost fall over! Rather, you need to lean forwards just enough to
take the weight off your heels. Failure to do this will leave you flat footed.
Racket carriage
Your badminton racket position varies a lot depending on the situation.
It should never be left to dangle near your ankles, however. Bring your racket up!Your racket
should be held out in front of you, and away from your body. Typically you will hold it about
waist height; but youll hold it higher when attacking and lower when defending.
Your left arm
Dont forget that you have two arms! Although your left arm does not hit the shuttlecock, it
affects your balance a great deal.
Your left arm should be used to balance your right arm and racket. In the ready position, this
generally means holding it in front of your body and slightly out to the side.
Never leave your left arm dangling at your side!
Elements of badminton movement
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The split drop
The split drop is an essential technique for starting quickly in badminton.
It may sound mysterious and technical; but every professional player does this,every time.
The split drop is also known by the names split step, pre-loading hop, bounce start, and many
other variations. They all refer to the same thing.
The importance of a quick start
After your opponent makes a shot, you need to react quickly.
You dont need to move very fartypically just two large stepsbut you dont have much
time to get there.
Think about how important the start is for 100m sprinters. Unlike marathon runners, sprinters
use special starting blocks to help launch themselves forwards. The shorter the distance, the
more important your starting movement is.
But in badminton, you typically move only about 34 metres from your starting position.
Compare that to 100m sprinting, and you can understand how essential a quick start is in
badminton.
Split drop technique
The split drop involves widening your base (the split) and lowering your base (the drop) at
the same time.
Start in the ready position. Now push upwards slightly to get your feet just off the ground. As
your feet are coming off the ground, widen your legs so that you land with your feet farther
apart. As you land, bend your knees so that you land in a slightly lower posture than before
(with the knees bent more).
A casual observer would not even realise that you momentarily took your feet off the floor.
Your feet barely leave the surface before you land again.
The whole process takes a mere instant, and then you are ready to push off and move to the
shuttlecock.
Timing the split drop
You should start your split drop just as the opponent is hitting the shuttlecock, so that you
complete it just after you see where the shuttlecock is going.
This timing must be precise. If you split too late, your movement is delayed; but if you split
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too early, you lose the bouncing effect.
Practise timing your split drop so that you can move off immediately after seeing where the
shuttlecock is going.
How does the split drop work?
Counter-movements
Widening your base allows you to push off into the ground with one foot, at an angle. For
every movement, you need an initial counter-movement in the opposite direction. So if you
want to move forwards, you have to push off backwards with one foot.
Thats why the ready position has your right foot slightly in front of your left foot. If the feet
were completely side-by-side, it would be difficult to initiate forwards or backwards
movement.
The stretch-shortening cycle
Muscles are able to generate more force if they are lengthened (stretched) and
thenimmediately shortened (contracted). This is called the stretch-shortening cycle.
More technically, this occurs when an eccentric muscle contraction is followed immediately
by a concentric muscle contraction.
The important thing to understand is that you cannot wait. Your pushing-off movement must
immediately follow your split-drop; otherwise, the benefits are lost.
Steps or chasss?
Even among coaches, there is often confusion about the merits of steps vs. chasss.
Sometimes a coach will teach only chasss, believing that they make steps redundant (this is
an error).
The reality is that both steps and chasss are useful, but they have different merits.
Steps: the fastest way to cover distance
Consider (again) a 100m race. If one of the runners decided to use chass steps instead, how
well do you think he would perform?
Chasss are much slower at covering long distances, because the length of each stride is
smaller. Because of this, there are many situations in badminton where running steps are by
far the faster method to reach the shuttlecock, and using a chass instead would just be silly.
You should generally avoid stringing multiple chasss together for covering distance.
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Running steps would be faster. Most of the time, its inefficient to string two chasss
together; and you should certainly not string three chasss together!
(This is not the same as following one chass with another. Multiple consecutive chasss can
often be useful to help you change direction quickly.)
Chasss: dynamic footwork
Chasss, although slower over distance, have some interesting advantages over steps.
Chasss are adaptable for different distances
The effective length of a running step is fixed by your leg length: short steps are a hideously
inefficient method of movement. Chasss, however, remain efficient regardless of whether
you need a full-length chass or a small adjustment chass.
Its important to realise that you do not need to bring your feet fully together for a chass.
This is optional; sometimes the feet come almost together, and sometimes they stay wide
apart. The more distance you intend to cover with a single chass, the closer your following
foot must move to the leading foot.
This is what makes chasss so adaptable: you can speed up a short chass by moving each
foot only a small amount (so the feet dont move close together). This doesnt work with
ordinary running steps.
Because of these differences, chasss are faster than running steps over very short distances.
They also keep you on-balance throughout the whole movement, and minimise body rotation
(which can get in the way of hitting a good shot).
Chasss help you jump
Unlike running steps, chasss keep both feet close to the ground at all times. A good chass
feels like you are skimming across the floor! Chasss also keep you in a balanced position at
all times, whereas a running step depends on using imbalance to create movement.
These differences make chasss more effective than running steps when you want to launch
yourself into a jump at the end. At the end of a chass movement, you have both feet wide
apart and on the ground, and you are well balanced. This helps you to make a powerful two-
footed take-off.
Running steps, however, generally force you to use a one-footed take-off if you want to
move immediately into a jump. One-footed take-offs are less powerful.
Lunge technique
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Lunge technique is a boring topic, so most players ignore it.
Successful athletes, however, pay attention to the boring things as well as the fun things. If
your lunge is slightly wrong, then your knees will suffer.
A good lunge will also help you reach farther and recover more quickly.
The purpose of a lunge
Lunging provides several benefits:
A good lunge absorbs lots of force, without hurting your joints.
A lunge provides a balanced position from which to hit your shot.
Lunges maximise your reach, so that you can take the shuttlecock earlier.
After the shot, you can use your lunging leg to push back in the direction you came from.
Lunge basics
Lunges involve making one final large step, so that you finish your movement with your foot
well away from your body, in a low posture with the lunging knee bent.
In most situations, you should lunge with your right foot leading. This helps you to stay on
balance, by keeping your arms balanced above your legs. It also gives you the maximum
reach.
When lunging to your backhand side, however, it is quicker to lunge with your left foot
leading. Nevertheless you will often need to lunge with your right foot, in order to reach
backhand shots that are farther away.
As much as possible, keep your upper body upright throughout the lunge. If you fail to
control your upper body movement, you will bend at the waist too much and will have
difficulty recovering for the next shot. Avoid trying to reach the shuttlecock by bending at the
waist; make a deeper, lower lunge instead.
Protecting your knees and ankles
If your lunge technique is slightly wrong, you are at risk of damaging your knees or ankles.
There are several important points to follow:
The foot must point in the direction of the lunge
Whatever direction you are lunging in, your leading foot must point that way.
For example: if you are lunging towards the right tramlines, then your leading foot must point
towards the right tramlines when it lands.
Its common for players to make a sideways lunge with both feet pointing forwards.This is a
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dangerous habit and must be corrected at once.
Years ago, I severely sprained my right ankle because of this footwork error; at the time, I
was unaware of the correct method. I wish I had been taught the correct method; instead, I
learned about this by injuring myselfpermanently.
The foot and knee must stay in alignment
When you lunge, a large force travels up your leg. This force is supposed to be absorbed by
your muscles; but if you get the technique wrong, it will go into your joints instead (thats
bad. Really, really bad).
The knee must be lined up with the foot. Ideally, the knee should stay lined up with your
second toe (the one next to your big toe).
If the foot is turned in or out, then the knee is placed in an unstable position and is susceptible
to damage. This typically leads to patello-femoral pain syndrome (runners knee in the US).
To maintain ankle stability, however, some players choose to turn the foot out very slightly.
This is an acceptable compromise, but should be kept to an absolute minimum in order to
safeguard your knees.
The knee must not travel beyond the foot
As you complete a lunge, your forwards movement will cause the knee to move towards the
foot.
This movement must not continue beyond the point where the knee is directly over the foot.
The angle under the knee should be more than 90 degrees throughout the lunge.
Naturally you may ask, What if I need to lunge farther? The solution is simple: get lower
down. The longer your lunge, the lower it must be. This allows you to keep the knee behind
the foot, while still gaining maximum reach.
Thats why these types of lunges are called deep lunges.The heel must strike first
Another common error is to contact the floor with your toe first, or all of your foot together.
You must make contact first with your heel, and then roll onto the rest of the foot.
Using this heel-to-toe contact absorbs a surprising amount of force. If you land flat-footed
instead, guess where that extra force is going? Thats right: into your joints!
You can imagine that you are stepping on the brake pedal of a car. The heel-first contact acts
as a braking mechanism.
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In order to make this heel-first contact, you must deliberately throw your lower leg out in the
direction of your lunge, so that your toes are pointing somewhat upwards. This requires a
conscious effort at first, but should eventually be drilled into you so that it happens
automatically.
(Making an effort to throw out your lower leg has another benefit: it helps to ensure that your
knee will remain behind your foot.)
The backwards foot
The backwards foot should also be used as a brake (the more force-absorbing components,
the better!). Turn the foot outwards so that the inside side is dragged along the floor, and
allow it to drag forwards towards your front foot.
As well as providing a brake, dragging in the back foot reduces the width of your base. If you
dont do this on deep lunges, you will finish with your feet too far apart (an excessively wide
base), and it will be difficult to push off again for the next shot.
If you do this properly, your left badminton shoe will develop a distinctive wear pattern on
the inside side wall. This will eventually become a hole. This is perfectly normal, and
actually indicates that this element of your footwork is correct.
Scissor jumps
The scissor jump is often used as the last movement when hitting overhead forehands.
Its called a scissor jump because the legs swap positions while in the air. This motion bears a
vague resemblence to closing a pair of scissors.
Scissor jumps are also known as scissor kicks.
Scissor jump technique
Start near the back of the court, in a side-on position with your right foot back and
your left foot forward.
Now jump straight off the ground, turning your body as you hit the shuttlecock, so that your
feet swap places when they land: your right foot is now in front, with your leftfoot behind.
Your left foot should land momentarily before your right foot.
In a real game, you will often still be moving backwards as you make a scissor jump.
Foot rhythm
You can learn the rhythm of the scissor jump by practising continuous scissor jumps.
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Make a scissor jump. Then step your left foot forwards to recover. Then step your rightfoot
backwards to return to the side-on starting position. Finally, repeat the scissor jump.
The rhythm is like this: left, rightleft, right. Let me explain that:
You jump. Both feet come off the ground and switch places in the air.
You land, one foot immediately after the other: left, right.
You recover forwards with your left foot, and then step back again with
yourright foot: left, right.
You jump again
Benefits of a scissor jump
Scissor jumps allow you to play more powerful forehands, because you get your feet off the
ground and turn your body and shoulders.
Scissor jumps also help you make a quick recovery forwards, because you can push forwards
with your left foot as soon as it lands.
Scissor jumps are not always appropriate
A scissor jump is only effective when you are able to get behind the shuttlecock (or at least
level with it).
If the shuttlecock is behind you, then you will need to strike it with your badminton racket
behind your body. This is not compatible with a scissor jump; scissor jumps create an impact
point level or in front of the body.
Ablock jump, however, may be a good choice in this sitution.
Block jumps
The block jump is used to intercept the shuttlecock with a forehand or round-the-head
forehand action.
Comparing block jumps with scissor jumps
With the scissor jump, you lead your jump with the right foot but then swap your feet
positions in mid-air.
With the block jump, your feet dont swap. You land with the same foot position as you
started.
Examples of block jumps
The canonical block jump: a forehand jump-outIn this case, you jump backwards to play a forehand overhead with the shuttlecock behind
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your body. You start in a side-on position, jump, and remain in the side-on position when you
land. The right foot stays behind the left foot during the whole jump.
Sideways block jumps
You can also jump out to the side. In this case, your body is square-on (parallel) to the net.
When jumping to the forehand side, your right foot leads; when jumping to the backhand
side, your left foot leads. Your feet do not cross over; they remain wide apart throughout the
jump.
When you jump out to your right, you can usually land with both feet together (and this is
preferable). When you jump out to your left, however, you are playing a round-the-head
forehand, and will therefore be less balanced; usually, youll be forced to make a one-footed
landing with your left foot (but ground your right foot as soon as possible).
Block jumps into the backhand rear corner (round-the-head)
Block jumps are less effective in the backhand rearcourt, because a round-the-head
movement cannot be combined with a contact point that is well behind the body.
Nevertheless, you can use a block jump if youre able to intercept the shuttlecock while it is
still level with the body (or only very slightly behind). This often requires a near-contortionist
round-the-head movement!
For these round-the-head block jumps into the rearcourt, the left foot is behind theright foot
during the jump (thats the opposite way around from the forehand corner block jump).
Singles footwork patterns
Even if you are a doubles-only badminton player, you need to learn singles footwork. The
footwork patterns used for singles movement are also essential for doubles movement.
Once you have good singles footwork, you can easily adapt it for doubles too.
This section will teach you how to move from a central singles base to each of the four
corners:
Footwork to the front corners
Footwork to the forehand rear corner
Footwork to the backhand rear corner
Your starting position
When practising these footwork patterns, you should start in a typical singles base position:
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in the middle of the court, but one small step closer to the back line than the net.
A challenge!
Practise reaching all four corners with the fewest steps you can.
Many players add unnecessary steps, because they are not confident of their footwork
patterns. This wastes time; its better to take fewer, longer steps.
From a typical central singles base, you should be able to reach any corner in only two
movements. For example: a step and a lunge, or a chass and a jump.
Footwork to the front corners
The basic footwork pattern is essentially the same for both front corners: split drop, step with
your left foot, and lunge with your right foot.
Pattern summary: split, left, right.
The basic pattern (for both sides)
(1) Split drop
Start with a split drop. As you land, you should shift your weight towards your rightfoot, so
that your left foot will be free to push off and make the first step.
(2) Step with your left foot
Take step with your left foot towards the front corner. Try to cover as much distance as you
can with this step, rather than just relying on a deep lunge at the end.
(3) Lunge with your right foot
Finish the movement with a lunge into corner. Remember to maintain goodlunging technique.
On the backhand side, you will need to turn your body as your right foot crosses over for the
lunge.
Variations
Chass steps
In many situations, a chass will be more effective than a cross-over step. Chasss are faster
when you have a short distance to cover, such as when you are already in the forecourt (after
you played a net shot, for example).
Chasss are often used for travelling to the forehand front corner. A good example would be
when you play a high serve, and your opponent plays a fast drop shot to your forehand. You
would normally be best using a chass here.If you are travelling a longer distance, however, you should use steps instead. For example:
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suppose you just played a clear from your backhand corner, and your opponent plays the
same fast drop shot to your forehand. In this situation, because you are travelling from the
rearcourt (a longer distance), you would use running steps.
Similarly, if your opponent plays a slow drop shot, you will normally need running steps andnot chasss (the distance to cover is longer, but you have more time).
Chasss are not effective for reaching drop shots in the backhand corner, because you need to
turn your body for the final lunge. Normally you would use running steps here. Chasss are
often the better option for reaching net shots, however (a shorter distance to cover than drop
shots).
The forehand reversed cross-over
Sometimes, when travelling to the forehand front corner, its more effective to cross
your left foot behind your right foot. This is often the case when your movement is more
sideways than normal (as when you have just played a shot on the backhand side of the
court).
Crossing the foot behind may feel odd at first, but its a useful variation. It can often save you
from being forced into awkward over-rotation of your body in order to perform a normal
cross-over step.
The Danish leap into the backhand net corner
This is an obscure footwork pattern, which Ive heard originated in Denmark. It is best suited
to tall players. You wont get many chances to use this.
If you are able to anticipate your opponents shot to your backhand front corner, then you can
sometimes position your feet to point towards that corner: the left foot is in front of
the right foot. Note that this is the opposite way around from your normalready position.
From this position, you can reach the backhand front corner by making one huge leap. You
push off from your right foot with a powerful leap towards the corner, turning your body
while in the air, and land with a lunge on your right foot.
Even when your ready position is biased towards the forehand side (as when your opponent
is in the rearcourt on your forehand side), you can use this leap to reach the backhand front
corner. Its not easy, but it is possible.
If you succeed in using this footwork pattern, you will take the shuttlecock very early. The
problem with this footwork is that you must be confident that your opponent will hit to the
backhand front corner. The Danish leap ready position is terrible for reaching the backhand
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rear corner or the forehand front corner.
Footwork to the forehand rear corner
There are three basic patterns of footwork to the forehand rear corner: the arc step, the jump-
out, and the step-out.
Each is useful in different situations.
The arc step
Use this footwork pattern when you have time to get behind the shuttlecock.
The idea of the arc step is to position yourself directly behind the shuttlecock, in a fully side-
on hitting position, so that you can threaten to play a full-power smash. By contrast, the other
two footwork patterns place you diagonally into the corner (the fastest way).
Pattern summary: split, arc step, scissor jump.
1) Split drop
From the ready position, make a split drop. As you land, shift your weight slightly onto
your left foot (because you are about to push off to your right).
If you anticipate your opponents shot, then you can complete your split drop with
yourright foot behind your left foot, so that your feet are already angled into the corner. This
makes the next movement easier.
2) Arc step
This involves moving sideways and backwards while turning your body to a side-on,
aggressive hitting position. You do not move directly into the corner (a diagonal movement),
but rather you make a slight arc, in order to achieve the side-on position.
You can think of the arc step as a turning chass, where the chass movement is initially to
your right, but then smoothly changes into a backwards movement as you turn your body
part-way through.
Sometimes, however, its more of a turning jump than a turning chass. For example: when
you have not anticipated your opponents shot, your split drop will finish in the standard
position of right foot ahead of the left foot. In this case, you may need a jump to begin the arc
step.
3) Scissor jump
Finish with a scissor jump. This jump should take you backwards and somewhat upwards; hit
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the shuttlecock while you are in the air.
If you have time to spare, however, get fully to the back (use an extra chass or step if
necessary) before jumping straight upwards (rather than backwards). This will improve your
recovery for the next shot.
Jump-out
Use this footwork pattern for intercepting the shuttlecock when it is travelling behind you.
For example, you can often use a jump-out to intercept a shallow lift, allowing you to play a
winning half-smash.
Pattern summary: split, chass, block jump.
1) Split drop
If possible, finish your split drop with your right foot behind your left foot, so that you are
already in a side-on position and prepared to move back and jump.
This is different from the standard (generic) position, where your right foot is slightly ahead
of your left foot, in a stance roughly square-on to the net. If you finish your split drop in this
standard position, it will be much more difficult to perform a jump-out.
2) Chass (or hitch)
Normally you will need to make a short, fast chass backwards before you jump. Sometimesyou will need an even shorter, faster movement: use a hitch instead.
Occasionally you will skip this part entirely, and follow your split drop directly with a jump,
in order to make an immediate interception.
3) Block jump
Finish with ablock jump, jumping backwards and upwards to intercept the shuttlecock and
hitting while in the air. Remember to land on both feet together.
Step-out
Use this footwork pattern when the shuttlecock has already travelled behind you, and you are
unable to intercept it with a jump-out.
Pattern summary: split, left, right.
The step-out is similar to the jump-out, in that you are taking the shuttlecock from behind
your body.
1) Split drop
One advantage of the step-out is that, unlike the jump-out, it is easy to perform regardless of
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your foot position after the split drop.
Landing with your right foot behind still makes this movement easier, but its nowhere near
as dramatic an advantage as for the jump-out.
2) Step with your left foot
Take a step with your left foot towards the corner. Your left foot will normally
crossbehind your right foot during this step.
3) Step with your right foot
Step with your right foot towards the corner.
When you are taking the shuttlecock very late, this last step can become a lunge. If this
happens, remember that you must point your foot in the direction of the lunge so that the knee
and foot remain in alignment.
The deeper the step-out, the more lunge-like it becomes, and therefore the leg (and foot) must
point more towards the corner.
When you are taking the shuttlecock earlier, however, you should make every effort to push
up off the ground for a higher impact point. This is like a very weak jump-out. In this case,
the right leg (and foot) will land pointing sideways and perhaps slightlyforwards.
Footwork to the backhand rear corner
In the backhand rear corner, you can play either backhands or round-the-head forehands.
These have completely different footwork patterns.
Round-the-head forehands are a much better choice when possible, but you will nevertheless
often be forced to play a backhand.
Backhand footwork
The backhand footwork is simple. Its much the same as a forehand step-out.
Pattern summary: split, chass, turn.
1) Split drop
The standard landing position (right foot slightly ahead of left foot) will serve you well here,
and theres no advantage to be gained by selecting a different foot position.
2) Chass towards the corner
Your left foot will lead the chass.
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3) Turn and step with your right foot
Pivot on your left foot and turn your body, stepping across with your right foot, so that your
back turns towards the net.
This final step will often become a lunge. Where possible, step to the side rather than
backwards. Often, however, you will need to turn your back fully to the net and lunge into the
corner.
Round-the-head forehand footwork
This footwork pattern, although challenging to learn, is essential for your attacking play.
Pattern summary: split, swivel, scissor jump.
1) Split drop
As with the backhand footwork, the standard foot position is the best one.
2) Swivel step (moving pivot)
This is the key element of round-the-head footwork.
Push off with your right foot, and use this force to pivot around your left foot, angling your
body towards the corner.
Its essential that this is a moving pivot: while you are turning, you must also move back
towards the corner. The more distance you can cover while turning, the better.
The left foot only remains on the ground for the very start of the pivotjust enough time to
begin the turn. It then comes off the ground, and hovers briefly (this is where you cover
distance) before landing again.
Try to make your left foot cover as much ground as possible while hovering.
You can also think of this swivel step as a turning hop.
3) Scissor jump
Finish with a scissor jump, jumping backwards into the corner.
This combination of movements feel unnatural at first, because you are swivelling one way
before using the scissor jump to rotate your body in the opposite direction. Youll need good
core stability to make the most of this twisting footwork pattern!
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Forehand power shots: clear and smash technique
This guide will teach you how to play forehand clears and smashes.
Well concentrate on how you can generate more power, so that clears reach the back and
smashes are more threatening.
Generating power
The techniques explained in this article are mainly about helping you generate more power
when you play a clear or smash.
Top players can hit the shuttle extremely hard: the fastest recorded smash is
421 kph(262 mph). Generating this much power requires excellent technique.
At a more basic level, many club players struggle to hit clears all the way to the back.
Because their technique is poor, clearing the shuttle requires a lot of energy, and they soon
become tired.
Its not about how big your muscles are
Some badminton players think that developing big muscles is the way to improve their
power.
Its true that fitness training will help, but the main issue is technique. No matter how big
your muscles are, you will have a weak smash unless your technique is right.
Differences between clears and smashes
Theres not much difference in technique between a clear and a smash. In both cases, the
challenge is getting enough power.
The main technical difference is the contact point. Clears are hit with the shuttle directly
above the right shoulder, whereas the contact point for smashes is slightly out in front of the
body. This difference occurs because clears are hit in an upwards direction, whereas smashes
are hit downwards.
For this reason, getting behind the shuttle is especially important if you want to play a good
smash.
Basic hitting technique for forehand clears and smashes
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This section offers three lessons to help you develop your power for forehand clears and
smashes.
Learning the basic hitting technique
Even the basic technique for forehand overheads is quite complex. It takes time to learn.
To make it easier to learn, this section follows a structure similar to actual coaching sessions.
Ive divided it into three lessons:
Body rotation
Arm rotation
Combining arm rotation with body rotation
In the first lesson, well cover the topic of body rotation. Youll learn the overall shape
or form that your hitting action should have. This is the big picture.
In the second lesson, well learn about arm rotation. This is a fine detail thats easily missed,
but its absolutely essential for generating power.
In the third lesson, well put both of these techniques together. By looking at both thebig
picture and the fine details, youll develop a complete hitting technique.
Body rotation: the forehand throwing action
To get the most power, you need to prepare in a side-on hitting position. This allows you to
create power from body rotation.
The wrong way: panhandling
Most beginners stand square-on to the net, holding the racket in apanhandle grip. To get
power, they try flicking their arm forwards from the elbow and wrist.
This beginner technique is called panhandling. Panhandling has one advantage: making a
clean contact is easy, because the racket strings are always pointing at the shuttle.
Even experienced players get it wrong
Although Ive called it a beginner technique, most club players suffer from panhandling to
some extent.
Panhandling can be overcome with good coaching and dedicated practices. Without such
help, most players will always be stuck with some panhandling in their technique.
Being technical, pandhandling uses mainly elbow extension and wrist flexion to power the
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shot. Unfortunately, these arm movements are relatively weak on their own. If you want to
develop powerful shots, you must learn better technique instead.
Because panhandling uses a low contact point out in front of the body, it also restricts players
to hitting relatively flat shots: its difficult to play a steep smash or a high clear.
The right way: body and arm rotation
The correct technique allows you to use body and arm rotation to power your shots. It also
lets you reach higher, so you can hit the shuttle more steeply downwards.
Almost all beginners find the correct technique much harder to learn; many just give up and
stick with panhandling. Persevere! Once you get it right, your clears and smashes will be far
more powerful, and youll be using less effort to hit them.
Well start by learning the basics of body rotation. After that, well move on to arm rotation.
Learning body rotation
Start with a relaxedbasic grip.
Turn your whole body sideways, so that your left side is closer to the net than yourright side.
Your left foot should be in front of your right foot. Make sure your right foot is pointing out
to the side of the court.
Raise both your arms so that your elbows are level with your shoulders: your elbows and
shoulders should be in a line. Lean back slightly, so that your right elbow is lower than your
left elbow.
You should be looking forwards towards the net, not sideways.
Key tip
This sideways-on posture is similar to the action of an archer drawing back a bowstring.
Imagine you are getting ready to fire an arrow!
From this side-on position, step forwards with your right foot and reach up high to hit the
shuttle.
As you step forwards, your hips and shoulders should turn: you begin with your body facing
to the right, you hit the shuttle with your body facing the net, and you finish the stroke with
your body facing mainly to the left.
Temporary footwork
For now, you should keep your left foot on the ground as you hit the shot, and step forwards
with your right foot.
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I call this footwork a step-through: youre stepping through the shot. This is a simplified
footwork method, which makes it easier to learn the hitting technique. Later on, you can learn
to use a scissor jump instead, which will increase the power you get from body rotation.
The forehand throwing action
The hitting technique for forehand clears and smashes is often likened to throwing a ball a
long distance, with an overhead throwing action. Its as though you throw the racket at the
shuttlebut without letting go of the racket!
You can practise the correct throwing action by standing at the back of the court and trying to
throw a shuttle over the net. You can also try throwing other items, such as tennis balls.
Then try making the same action while holding your racket. You may find it helpful to
practise the movement without a shuttle (shadowing the shot).
How to practise the hitting technique
I suggest you start by practising a forehand clear. You can also practise smashes if you prefer,
but most players find the clear easier to begin with.
First, just focus on a high contact point
For your first practice, focus on these two coaching points:
Start with a relaxedbasic grip.
Reach up above your head for a high contact point.
The ideal contact point is above your right shoulder, at full relaxed reach. You should be
reaching up, but your arm should not be completely straight: there should be small angles at
the elbow, wrist, and shoulder.
Next, try to add body rotation
Once you are comfortable reaching up for a high contact point, try adding more parts of the
technique:
Get into a side-on stance, with your right foot back and your arms elevated.
Step into the shot with your right foot, turning your body and shoulders.
Use an overhead throwing action to hit the shuttle.
Learning arm rotation on its own
Arm rotation is essential for creating power in badminton. In my opinion, its the mostimportant aspect of hitting a powerful shot.
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What is arm rotation?
Arm rotation involves turning the arm inwards or outwards. In badminton, both the upper and
lower arm contribute power.
Lets try out both of these arm rotations. First, get yourself into the following starting
position:
Starting position
Put your arms at your sides, with your palms facing inwards and your fingers pointing
towards the floor.
Now bend your elbows 90 degrees, so that your hands are out in front of you with the palms
facing each other. Your fingers should be pointing forwards.
Rotation of the upper arm
From the starting position, reach each hand across to touch the opposite elbow. Keep your
elbows pinned to your side as you do this: the elbows should not move! This movement
is internal rotation of the upper arm.
Return to the starting position. This time, move your hands away from each other so that your
fingers are pointing out to the side. Again, keep your elbows pinned in place. This movement
is external rotation of the upper arm.
Rotation of the lower arm (forearm)
From the starting position, turn your hands over so that your palms are facing the floor. This
movement is pronation of the forearm.
Return to the starting position, and turn your hands so that the palms face upwards. This
movement is supination of the forearm.
Your first lesson in arm rotation
Now you know what I mean by arm rotation, but I havent yet showed you how to use it in
badminton.
Lets start with some simplified practices. In the previous topic, you learned about getting
side-on and using body rotation. For this practice, Id like you to stop doing that temporarily.
Well return to body rotation soon, but for these first practices I want to isolate the arm
rotation so that its easier to learn.
Practice setup
You need two people for these practices: the player and the feeder.
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You can do these practices in any part of the court, but the feeder will need to be close to you.
I usually arrange these practices with the player in his forecourt area, and the feeder on the
other side of the net throwing shuttles.
The feed needs to be very accurate. For this reason, I recommend that the feeder throwshuttles by hand. The feeder must be careful to protect his eyes, or he risks being blinded. I
recommend wearing shatter-proof safety glasses.
The feeder should use an underarm throw, and make sure the player has enough time to play
his shot: its best if the shuttle travels slightly higher than the players reach, before dropping
down for him to hit. Try to deliver the feeds right onto the racket strings, so that the player
has to make only minimal adjustments to his position.
As the player, you should stand with your chest square-on to the net, and your feet
approximately side-by-side. Reach up with your right arm so that your elbow is high and
slightly ahead of you. There should be a wide angle at the elbow, but your arm should still be
slightly bent.
Turn your arm outwards so that your palm is facing inwards (you are externally rotating the
upper arm and supinating the forearm). You are now in the starting position for these
practices.
1. Hitting the shuttle with the racket frame!
To start with, I just want you to hit the shuttle with the side of the racket frame. This may
seem a bizarre exercise, but trust metheres method in my madness!
Your hitting action must be very short. From the starting position, move your hand a short
distance backwards, bending at the elbow.Then bring it forwards more sharply, leading with
your little finger, so that you hit the shuttle with the side of the racket frame. Imagine that
youre chopping the shuttle in half!
At the point of impact, stop your swing: do not allow the racket to continue going forwards
and downwards. For these practices, we want a short, sharp swing.
2. Turning the arm back inwards
For this practice, I want you to imagine that youre still chopping the shuttle with the frame.
But at the last moment, you twist your hand inwards, to hit with the strings instead.
Start with a relaxed grip, and tighten it just before hitting the shuttle. Keep your hitting action
very short: stop the racket at the point of impact, creating a rebound action.
Just to be clear, this is what youre aiming for:
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Small backswing from the elbow. The grip is relaxed.
Small forwards swing from the elbow. The racket is still facing sideways.
Tighten your grip and twist your arm inwards so that the racket faces the shuttle on impact.
Once you get the hang of this, you will find that the shuttle travels surprisingly fast, despite
your short hitting action. Thats why grip tightening and arm rotation are so important.
A common mistake in this practice
Players commonly get this practice wrong. Its essential to do it properly, or you wont get
any benefit. The correct sequence is this:
Backswing
Start forwards swing
Turn arm to face racket forwards
In my experience, about 40% of beginners actually do this:
Backswing
Turn arm to face racket forwards
Forwards swing
Unless this is corrected, the practice is pointless. Ask your feeder to watch what youre doing
carefully. Even better, get someone else to observe.
Combining arm rotation with body rotation
In this lesson, well complete your basic technique by learning how to combinearm
rotation withbody rotation.
Focus on the elbow
Lets improve your throwing action by focusing on the role played by the elbow. Well break
the throwing action down into three stages:
Side-on preparation
Just before hitting
Hitting and follow-through
1. Side-on preparation
Youve already learned about getting sideways-on in preparation for the shot. Now lets make
sure the elbow position is correct.
At this stage of the shot, you should have a narrow angle at your elbowabout 45 degrees.
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The exact angle doesnt matter, just that it should be less than 90 degrees.
To remember this, it often helps to look at the shape your elbow makes. With this narrow
angle, the elbow makes a V-shape.
Remember that your elbow should also be slightly lower than your shoulder, and that your
racket strings should be facing forwards and downwards (not out to the side).
2. Just before hitting
Now bring the elbow upwards and forwards, turning your shoulders as you do so. Your chest
should be square-on to the net.
You should have a wide angle at the elbow nowabout 135 degrees. Coaches often call this
an L-shape (but actually, its wider than the letter L).
As you lead with the elbow, your racket head should naturally drop behind your shoulder.
Your racket strings should now be facing inwards (sideways).
Recognise this position? Its the starting position from when you were practisingarm rotation.
3. Hitting and follow through
From this position, you use arm rotation to hit the shuttlejust as you learned before.
This time, you can allow yourself to make a larger swing: after you hit the shuttle, the arm
will continue turning, so that the racket strings briefly face out to the right.
Nevertheless, the swing should remain compact. Dont take a great big swipe at the shuttle!
Keep it compact and controlled.
Practising this
First practise getting these three positions right (especially the first two). Stop and hold each
position for a few seconds, checking that its correct. Take your time over this, and do it in
front of a mirror if possible.
Then try moving smoothly from start to finish. Do this in slow-motion, and gradually increase
the speed as you get more confident.
Finally, try hitting a shuttle! Concentrate on getting the technique right, and try not to worry
about the results. Focus on going from a narrow V-shape to a wide L-shape at the elbow.
For this last practice, the feeder should be using a racket-feed and the player should be
around the middlerear of the court.
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Improving your technique for clears and smashes
Here are some tips for improving your technique, so that you can get more power in your
clears and smashes.
Make sure youre confident with the basicsbefore moving on to these details.
Better footwork: the scissor jump
When describing thebasic hitting technique, I gave you a temporary footwork pattern (the
step-through). This pattern is easy to learn, but its rarely a good option.
Instead, you should try using a scissor jump when you hit your clears and smashes. Scissor
jumps get both feet off the ground, which allows you to use body rotation more effectively.
Keeping the left foot on the ground is less effective, because it inhibits your hip rotation.
Try to get your right hip moving forwards fractionally ahead of your shoulders turning. It
should feel like youre leading the shot with your hip, as opposed to following the shot with
your hip. By leading with the hip, you can transfer power from the lower body into the upper
body, and ultimately into the shuttle. If the hip follows rather than leads, then the lower bodyrotation is too late to help power the shot.
Make sure you establish a wide base (feet at least shoulder-width apart) before hitting the
shuttle, giving you a solid platform for the jump and body rotation. Land with a wide base
too.
Get behind the shuttle
Smashes and clears are much easier if you can get into a position slightly behind the shuttle.
This allows you to make the best use of body rotation for power.
The ideal contact point for a smash is farther in front of the body than for a clear (high clears
are hit more directly overhead). Consequently, its especially important to get behind the
shuttle when you want to play a powerful smash.
Its still possible to play both clears and smashes when the shuttle has travelled behind you,
but its more difficult and you wont get as much power.
Dont follow the shuttle; get there first!
A common error is to follow the shuttle as you move backwards to hit the shot, so that you
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stay underneath the shuttle at all times. As a result, you will reach a hitting position with the
shuttle level with you or even behind you.
Players do this because it helps them track the shuttle and move to the right place. As you get
more experienced, however, you can learn to know immediately where the shuttle is going,based on its speed and trajectory.
As you get better at judging where the shuttle is heading, you can move faster and get there
first. This will help you get into a hitting position behind the shuttle with enough time to play
a powerful shot.
When travelling, be prepared!
When youre travelling towards the shuttle, you should already be in the ready-to-hitposition
(sideways-on posture with the arms elevated).
This means you should be moving with your right leg behind the left leg, and in a position
where you would be ready to hit the shuttle immediately. Doing this has several benefits:
When you arrive at the hitting position, you are ready to play the shot.
It encourages a compact, explosive hitting action.
It helps you move backwards and stay balanced.
If you dont do this, you will probably make a larger, slower swing, with less arm rotation.
Keep the swing compact
Even the most powerful smashes use a relatively compact swing. Dont believe me? Then
watch this video ofTan Boon Heongs smash, which set a new world record of
421 kph (262 mph).
Most people find this counter-intuitive: our intuition says that a big smash should use a big,
powerful-looking arm swing. It turns out our intuition is wrong.
Using a compact swing, you can concentrate all your power at the moment of impact. An
expansive swing looks more powerful, but thats because the power isnt being transferred
into the shuttle.
Getting the follow-through right
After you hit the shuttle, your follow-through should initially be in the direction of the shot. A
common mistake is to follow-through across your body, which causes you to lose power and
hit all your smashes off to the left.
There will often be a visible rebound action at this point, where the racket brieflybounces
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back in the direction it came from. This rebound is more pronounced for half-smashes (or
stick-smashes), but can also be seen in full-power smashes when you watch them in slow-
motion video.
After this initial follow through, allow the arm to relax. At this point its okay for the arm tomove across the body.
By controlling the direction of your follow-through, you ensure that the power is
concentrated in the direction of your shot. If youre hitting a straight smash, for example, then
you want all your power to be directed straight, and not cross-court.
The worst kind of follow-through is a huge across-the-body swipe, where the racket ends up
behind your body (on the left side). As well as wasting power, this kind of follow-through
will reduce your balance and make you slow to recover.
Keep the follow-through compact!
Stay relaxed
Players often tense up when theyre trying to hit a powerful shot. This ruins your muscles
ability to generate explosive power: if your arm is tense, then it wont transfer the power.
Try to stay relaxed, and aim for a smooth, flowing action with a whip-like feeling. Dont try
to force the power, as this will cause you to tense up.
In other words: dont try to make a powerful swing; try to make a fast swing instead.
Its often difficult to stay relaxed under pressure. This even affects world-class players, who
sometimes tense up in a difficult match. Your state of mind can easily affect your hitting
technique!
Use the left arm correctly
Dont ignore your left arm!
As you turn your shoulders, bend your left elbow and tuck the left arm into your body. Do notallow it to swing out wildly behind you, as this will upset your balance, rob you of power,
and lower your point of contact with the shuttle.
Your left arm and shoulder should start moving momentarily before your right. Use
theleft arm to start the shoulder turn, with a rapid left-right rhythm. Remember: for the
shoulders to rotate effectively, the left arm must be leading the motion.
Dont bend the wrist too much
Many players, and even some coaches, are confused about the role of the wrist in badminton.
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Its often said that the wrist generates most of the power for badminton shots. This simply
isnt true: most of the power, especially for smashes and clears, comes from body and arm
rotation.
For a normal smash or clear, your wrist should stay relatively still during the hitting action. Acommon error is to bend (flex) the wrist forwards on impact with the shuttle, so that you
complete the shot with the wrist bent forwards at up to 90 degrees.
Avoid bending the wrist this much, as it prevents you from using arm rotation effectively. For
a full-power smash, your wrist should stay relatively neutral.
See this slow-motion video of Lin Dan and Lee Chong Wei smashing, and note how the wrist
stays relatively neutral, whereas the arm rotates a great deal.
It often looks as though the wrist is bending a lot, but the eye is easily deceived by fast
motion. Watching carefully in slow motion replays, you can see that its really arm rotation.
Half-smashes and deceptive clears
The wrist plays a greater role in half-smashes (stick-smashes), and deceptive attacking
clears. These are less powerful shots, where youre more concerned with angle and
placement. The wrist is great for altering angles.
Well look at these shots in later articles.
Badminton net shots guide
Net shots are among the subtlest shots in badminton. A good net shot puts you in control
of the rallyand sometimes even wins you the rally right away!
How to use this guide
This guide is primarily about technique, not tactics. In other words, the purpose of this guide
is to teach you how to play net shots, not when to play them.
As youll read on the next page, there are lots ofdifferent types of net shots. Ive tried to
separate them out so you can learn one thing at time. The main sections are:
Basic (straight) net shots
Cross-court and angled net shots
Im also planning to add a section on spinning net shots, but its not ready yet.
You need to understandbasic net shots before you move on to other types of net shot. Its
important to realise that the coaching points for these basic net shots create the foundation for
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playing all the advanced variations.
In each section, I include a separate page for overhand net shots. Overhand net shots use
essentially the same techniques as their underhand counterparts, but there are some subtle
differences.
Different types of net shot
All net shots are played from near the front of the court, and they all land near the front of the
opponents court. Nevertheless, there are many variations.
Well cover all the different combinations in detail over the course of this article; but for now,
heres an overview.
Net shot angles
Net shots can be eitherstraightorangled.
Straight net shots are where the shuttle doesnt travel sideways along the net. So if youre
making contact with the shuttle on the left side of the net, you will send it directly over to the
same side (the left, as you see it). If youre making contact in the middle of the net, you will
send it back over to the middle (not to either side).
Angled net shots are where you add a sideways component to your net shot. Some angled
shots travel the length of the net, from one corner to the other; these are called cross-court net
shots.
Underhand vs. overhand net shots
An underhand net shot is where the racket head is below the level of the hand; the racket head
is pointing mainly to the ceiling (and also slightly forwards). An overhand net shot is where
the racket head is above the level of the hand, and facing more directly forwards.
Overhand net shots are used when the shuttle is above the level of the net tape; underhand net
shots are used when the shuttle is below the level of the net tape. Theres a small area of
cross-over, around net tape height, where either type of net shot can be used.
Underhand net shots are the more common type, especially in singles. Overhand net shots are
often used in doubles, however, as the front attacking player can often reach the shuttle while
its still above net height.
Another reason that underhand net shots are preferred in singles is that this racket position
makes it much easier to threaten playing a lift. In doubles, the overhand action makes it easier
to threaten a drive or push.
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A slight flaw in this categorisation
The point about underhand vs. overhand net shots is that, generally speaking, the racket head
should be under the hand when the shuttle is under net height, and overthe hand when the
shuttle is over net height.
However, when playing cross-court net shots, the racket head normally ends up above the
hand, even if the shuttle is below the net! This is also sometimes true for other angled net
shots.
Spinning net shots
In certain situations, you can apply spin to your net shots, which makes them more difficult to
return and causes them to fall tighter to the net.
Spinning net shots are used in all forms of the game, but are especially important for high-
level mens singles.
Spinning net shots are not currently covered by this guide. I will be adding them later,
however!
Simple vs. deceptive net shots
You can often disguise your intentions by preparing as though to play one shot, before
actually playing something different.
You can disguise the direction of your net shots, or even disguise them as a completely
different shot (such as a lift). If the disguise is good enough, you may deceive your opponent
so that he moves the wrong way.
Well look at the issue of deception throughout this guide, as its an important theme around
the net. However, its not always beneficial to attempt deception, as it often causes you to
play a less accurate shot and to take the shuttle later than you could have done.
Basic technique for straight net shots
The technique for playing a basic, straight net shot is easy to learn. Even complete beginners
can pick it up quickly.
You might be tempted to skip past this page, being eager to learn more glamorous variations
such as cross-court or spinning net shots. Wait! You must get the basic technique right, or
your advanced shots will never work.
Grip
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Net shots are delicate and sensitive. You dont need any power, but you do need
exquisite touchthe ability to control the shuttle precisely.
Your fingertips are the most sensitive part of your hand. For net shots, therefore, you should
hold the racket in your fingertips, with a larger gap in your palm than for other shots.
For learning basic net shots, use abasic grip for forehands and abevel grip for backhands.
There are situations that require other grips, but well look at those later.
Posture
Your posture is crucial when playing a net shot. Make a balancedlunge forwards with
your right foot, so that you can reach forwards to take the shuttle early. Try to keep as
balanced as possible, with your arms positioned over your legs.
Sometimes on the backhand side, when you only have a short distance to lunge, its faster to
lunge with your left foot (because it takes time to turn your body for a right-footed lunge).
This commonly happens in doubles net play.
The racket arm
Your racket should be well in front of you. You should be at full relaxed reach: youre
reaching forwards, but theres still a slight bend at your elbow.
The racket frame should be oriented horizontally. Imagine you are going to post the racket
into a letterbox!
Bend your wrist so that the racket head is below your hand. This angles the racket slightly
forwards, which is necessary to make the shuttle pass over the net.
Use your left arm
Its easy to forget about the left arm, since its not actually hitting the shuttle.
To play a good net shot, however, you must maintain excellent balance. Use your leftarm as a
counter-balance against your right, by raising it out behind you.
The timing of your arm movements should be together. As you raise your right arm and move
it forwards, do the same thing with your left armexcept that the left arm goes backwards,
not forwards. Notice that this also keeps your left arm balanced over yourleft leg.
If you are making a left-footed lunge on the backhand side, however, you need to use
the left arm differently. Instead of raising your left arm behind you (as you normally would),
you will get better balance by moving it out to your left.
Get your eyes near the same level as the shuttle
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For an accurate net shot, you must be able to see what youre doing. Adjust your posture so
that your eyes are near the same height as the shuttle. The idea is to help you watch three
different things at (roughly) the same time:
The shuttle
The net
Your opponent
At the instant you hit the shuttle, your focus must be on the shuttle (and not on your opponent
or the net). Nevertheless, being able to see the net better will help you play an accurate shot
(it improves your spatial awareness), and being aware of your opponents position will help
you choose the right shot (it improves your tactical awareness).
This doesnt mean that your eyes must be at exactly the same height as the shuttle. Normally,
your eyes will be slightly higher than the shuttle.
Players commonly get this wrong when the shuttle is near the ground. Because its more
comfortable, they stay upright. This means that their eyes are much higher than the shuttle,
and consequently they are looking down at the floor as they play a net shot.
Instead, they should make a deeper lunge. This gets their body (and eyes) lower down. This
way, while they are looking at the shuttle, they are also looking forwards towards the net, and
not down at the floor.
Racket carriage
As you are travelling to the shuttle, keep your racket in a comfortable neutral position
pointing towards neither the forehand nor the backhand. Then, as you approach the shuttle,
reach your racket forwards and turn your hand outwards (for forehands) or inwards (for
backhands).
Key tip
Forehand net shots are palm upas though putting out your hand for money!
Backhand net shots are knuckles upas though offering your hand to be kissed!
Make sure that you get your racket into position before hitting the shuttle. Do not bring the
racket upwards to meet the shuttle; the racket should already be there!
Hitting action
The hitting action should be a gentle push. Do not flick the wrist! The wrist should stay still
(or very nearly still) throughout this shot. Your whole arm, from shoulder to fingertips,
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should feel as though its one piece; in other words, keep the movement to a minimum.
Your push will be softer or firmer, depending on how near the shuttle is to the net.
Sometimes, if the shuttle is right next to the net tape, you just let it bounce off the racket
strings without pushing it at all.
Differences for an overhand net shot
When the shuttle is above net height, you can play an overhand net shot.
Dont forget that, if the shuttle is high enough, you may be able to kill it instead.
Grip
For an overhand net shot, use apanhandle grip on the forehand side and a thumb gripon the
backhand side.
When the shuttle is farther out to the side of you, you need to adjust the angle of your grip, so
that you can still place the shuttle straight (and not hit it out the side of court!).
You grip should still be held delicately in the finger tips, for maximum control.
Posture
Your posture should be the same as for an underhand net shot, with one exception: bend your
wrist back so that the racket head is above your hand.
With the racket head in this position, you will necessarily have less reach than you get with
an underhand net shot.
As you approach the shuttle, you should usually keep your wrist bent back so that the racket
head is very slightly behind the hand, rather than directly above it. This gives you the option
of playing a drive instead, by snapping your wrist forwards. The threat of a drive will often
prevent your opponent from rushing forwards.
Choosing between overhand and underhand
Much of the time, your choice is forced: you must use an underhand net shot, because you
will be contacting the shuttle below net height, and you need the extra reach.
When you arrive early enough to reach the shuttle above the net, however, an overhand net
shot is usually better. Take the shuttle immediately, rather than waiting for it to drop and
playing an underhand shot.
What about when its really close?
Sometimes its hard to tell whether you will make it to the net in time to play an overhand net
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shot. You know its going to be close, but youre worried that the shuttle will fall just
fractionally too far and youll be stuck trying to play an impossible overhand shot.
In this situation, approach the net with your racket raised in an overhand position anyway. If
you have misjudged the timing slightly, you can still switch from an overhand to anunderhand action, by rolling your racket under the shuttle.
Its also possible to switch from underhand to overhand, but this is more difficult. This action
is mainly used when you want to play a deceptive drive off a (fake) underhand net shot
action.
Simple deception for a straight net shot
Here are some simple methods of applying deception to your straight net shots.
The problem with these deceptions is that they reduce the accuracy of your net shots. Use
them with discretion, when you feel your opponent is especially vulnerable to the deceptive
effect.
Faking a lift, and then playing a net shot
You make an apparently powerful lift action (the fake), but stop the racket short of the shuttle,
withdraw it slightly to start a new (and softer) swing, and play a net shot.
This deception is suitable for using against opponents who are slow to read your shots, and
therefore need a very obvious fake action in order to be deceived. At higher levels of play,
this deception is rather useless, as the accuracy penalty is too great.
A more sophisticated version
This deception has three parts:
You prepare as normal, ready for a straight net shot.
As the shuttle approaches, you withdraw your racket a short distance, as though playing a
deceptive lift.
You slow down the lift action, and play a straight net shot.
This deception is suitable for using against opponents who can read your shots quickly. The
idea is to make them think theyve spotted your deceptive intention (the lift), and then reverse
the deception so that you play the original fake shot (the net shot). Against inexperienced
players, you may find that this deception is too subtle: they will not notice your fake lift
action, and will continue blithely forwards towards your net shot.
Essentially, this deception relies on your opponent looking out for deceptions. Against
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opponents who are not watching for deceptions, this attempted deception will fail; in other
words, youve chosen a deception that is too sophisticated for the opponent.
This deception has much better accuracy than the previous one, but you will still lose some
accuracy.
An overhand version
This time, youre going to fake a net drive and play an overhand net shot. This is mainly
useful in doubles.
You need to make an action suggestive of a powerful drive