baltic jewellery news (march 2015) no. 28

FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!

E X C L U S I V E M A G A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W E L L E R Y B U S I N E S S I N T H E B A L T I C S E A R E G I O N

March 2015 (28)

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Dear readers,

As it happens every year, this spring, too, you are holding

a brand new issue of our magazine. We have welcomed

the New Year full of hope that this year will be even better

and more interesting for each of us, and that the jewellery

market will keep on pleasing us with its beautiful pieces as

well as successful deals. Ideas are being transformed into

something real – real projects – and so we must keep on

genuinely believing in what we are doing and enjoy our

success.

In this issue you will find a story on plans to start amber

mining in Lithuania (in the Curonian Spit, close to Juod-

krante) already this year. That is great news for the amber

business as the last time amber was mined in Lithuania

was back in the 19th century. Also, you will find a report

by International Amber Association which looks into the

amber mining sector in Poland. Ukrainian Amber World

Association reports on wide-scale illegal amber mining

in Ukraine, which has the world’s second largest amber

deposits in the market, and on reoccurring legal problems

and plans to improve this mining sector in the country.

Metrosert, Assay Office of Estonia, states that the library

legislation on jewellery of some European Union (EU) states

(including Estonia) does not offer any valuable protection

for customers in the jewellery industry. Kaliningrad Amber

Combine that controls the world’s largest amber deposits,

talks to Baltic Jewellery News about changes in the indus-

try. Kaliningrad Amber Combine completely changed the

procedure of handling counterparties and began active

cooperation with leading jewellers and designers famed in

Russia and in the West.

Each piece of amber is unique in its colour and texture and

becomes even more exclusive through the work of jewel-

lery. In this issue Alec Corday shares his thoughts on the

beauty of blue amber, while Latvian Putti Art Gallery and

others talk about its exquisiteness in jewellery. Make sure

not to miss our article on Nobel Prizes awarded to Swed-

ish jewellers. We extend our thanks to the authors of this

project for their excellent idea, and thank the Nobel Prize

laureates for their inspiring pieces that enrich our maga-

zine with even more colours.

Our magazine was delighted to get an exclusive interview

from Jassim Bohamad, an amber collector and the Honor-

ary Ambassador of a jewellery exhibition, “Amber Trip”, in

Kuwait. The family of Mr. Bohamad is the first to establish

an amber museum in Kuwait. Ruta Jurkunaite Bruoziene, a

Lithuanian fashion designer and a jeweller, talks about her

artistic quest and a comeback to her childhood.

We did not forget the topic of amber inclusions. Tree

resins would fall on insects during the most unexpected

moments of their trip. Research conducted by Manchester

University reveal facts about behaviour and migration pat-

terns of insects found in amber.

Our editorial board is also extremely grateful to Anna

Sado for her thoughts and to everyone else interviewed

and having developed reports and articles on the jewellery

market. We hope that with the help of all of you and our

magazine, the jewellery of the Baltic region will become

more visible worldwide.

Enjoy reading the issue!

Virginija ZYGIENE

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March 2015 (28) CONTENT:

Polish Jewellery Report6 Gold Silver Time

9 Amber. Around the World

12 AMBERIF

German Jewellery Report 14 Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe 2015

16 INHORGENTA MUNICH

18 Gemworld Munich

Russian Jewellery Report20 Amber IS coming back into fashion worldwide

26 JUNWEX

28 Why do artists-amber processors join the Union?

Ukrainian Jewellery Report30 Ukraine – amber land

32 Amber production – another war

Danish Jewellery Report36 Glamorous Green amber

Norwegian jewellery report38 A&C jewellery out of Love

Swedish Jewellery Report40 Nobel Jewellery Prize

44 Precious Fair

Finnish Jewellery Report46 KORUS – International Jewellery Event

Estonian jewellery report48 Love Me Or Leave Me Or Let Me Be Lonely

52 The safety of jewellery is the customers concern ...

Latvian jewellery report54 Amber: Like You've Never Seen Before

Lithuanian jewellery report56 “Amber Trip”

58 Promotion of Lithuanian Jewellery Business Development

74 Amber will be mined in Lithuania

77 Amber brought back the memories of childhood

Baltic Jewellery News/ March 2015 (28)Paplaujos st. 5–7, LT-11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel/Fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail. [email protected]/VIRGINIJA ZGIENE/+370 620 10115; E-mail: [email protected] Designer/DANA SMITIENE/Translators/VERTIMU GURU and PILIETINĖ GYNYBA, /CIRCULATION 5 000

Reporter: Lithuania: V. Zygiene/ [email protected]; Poland: A.Sado/ [email protected]; M. Kosior/ [email protected]; Russia: Y.Velikotsky/[email protected]; Sweden: S. Svedestedt & K. R.Andersson/[email protected]; Estonia: A. P. Decker/[email protected]; International: A. Corday/ [email protected]

Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region Population over 80 million Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is no permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.

We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better. Thank you for the cooperation!

Worldwide Jewellery Report80 Price for raw amber by Kaliningrad Amber Combine

81 The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber

82 The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber

84 The Worldwide Price for Amber

85 The Worldwide Gold Price

88 Global gold jewellery market

Dominican Amber Report90 Is Blue Amber among the world's rarest gems?

Indian Jewellery Report92 The Future of Amber is in India

Turkish Jewellery Report96 Istanbul Jewelry Show

International Amber Association Report98 Amber in Poland

Inclusions 100 16 million-year-old hitchhiker

Personality102 Amber is my hobby

Other104 Jewellery Crime

106 Our friends

108 Caricature

109 Major Trade Fairs in March 2015 – August 2015

110 Advertise in “Baltic Jewellery News“

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T A B L E T W A X I N J E C T O R

AUTOMATICBELT SYSTEM

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www.balticjewellerynews.com

The 16th edition of Gold Silver Time Fair will

now be held in a new place: MT Polska Trade

Fair & Congress Centre located in Warsaw at

56c Marsa Str.

NEW LOCATION“It was a very difficult decision but ultimately better

development opportunities prevailed – both for the fair

and our exhibitors – with the enlargement of the exhibition

space in one of the halls”, explains Krzysztof Rafal Galimski,

President of MCT International Fair Centre. The area of one

hall rented in EXPO XXI proved to be insufficient several

years ago, resulting in expansion of the list of enterprises

expecting the exhibition sites as well as the individuals

interested in extending the size of the existing stand.

GOLD SILVER TIME 2015Press Release by GOLD SILVER TIME Press Office

These and many other necessary conditions are ful-

filled by the modern exhibition hall MT Polska Trade Fair &

Congress Centre based in Warsaw. This is one of the most

trendy objects of its kind in the whole country, in addition

to a modern exhibition hall with an area of 10 000 m2,

possessing also an outdoor area of 4 000 m2, a conference

and office space of 1 200 m2 as well as a restaurant and

parking lots. It will accommodate all interested exhibitors

not only at the current stage, but also in the long term of

the fair development.

“I realise that the new location is associated with

changes. As organisers, we will make every effort to make

this move the least bothersome as possible. I am sure that

our exhibitors and visitors will soon appreciate its advan-

tages”, says President of MCT.

GOLD SILVER TIME This is the largest autumn trade fair for jewellery and

watch industry in Poland which have been held in Warsaw

since 2000. It is organised by the International Fair Centre

and Visual Arts Studio.

Last year, the 15th edition confirmed the leading role

of the fair as a business event for jewellery industry. It was

attended by over 300 exhibitors from Poland and abroad, Silver jewellery by Eva Stone

Fashion show organised by the Amber. TREASURE OF POLAND

CONSORTIUM

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and its novelties were introduced to over 6 000 visitors.

Exhibitors' offers are dominated by gold and silver jewel-

lery with encrusted precious stones and jewels, and the

fashion jewellery sector is growing in strength year by

year. Over the last few years, the participation of amber

jewellery manufacturers has grown evidently. It is mainly

associated with a growing interest in the stone all over the

world (as traders search for quality stones and attractive

design, and visit the Warsaw fair in increasing numbers),

and also with the implementation of the trade promotion

programme of the Polish jewellery and amber industry in

2012–2015. In addition to amber, Poland is also associated

with quality silver jewellery, since Polish manufacturers

have a great deal to offer, especially in the designer and

artistic jewellery sector.

Good spirits in which the last year's fair ended, raise a

hope for another, at least as good edition of the fair. There

are many indications that this will happen. Exhibitors, as

usual, will take care of noteworthy offers appropriate for

market, and the new, bigger and eye-catching hall will pro-

vide new opportunities for its presentation at the highest

level. Forecasts for amber and silver are promising: many

amateurs invariably take a delight in the jewellery deco-

rated with amber, and the decreasing cost of stone gives

a reason to hope for the recovery of some interest on the

part of European customers. Silver is again seen as a noble

material, and high-quality silver jewellery with precious

stones and pearls celebrates the current sales triumphs.

Conditions for further development both for the indus-

try and the fair now seem to be getting better and bet-

ter: analysts assume that by 2017, consumer spending on

luxury goods in Poland will increase by 11 % to exceed the

limit of PLN 14 million (2014: PLN 12.6 million). The largest

increases are forecast in the segment of luxury jewellery

and watches – turnover from sales is expected to increase

from PLN 368 million in 2014 to PLN 466 million in 2017.

The uniqueness of the event which had ambition to

be much more than just a place to networking from the

very beginning is made up of numerous attractions of the

framework programme, led by the exhibitions of contem-

porary Polish jewellery and contests paying a bonus to

creativity of jewellery makers and craftsmen-jewellers.

Gold Silver Time – Jewellery and Watch Trade

Show, October 1–3, 2015

MT Polska Trade Fair & Congress Centre, located at

56c Marsa Str.

www.zlotosrebroczas.com

Exhibition is dedicated to THREE DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF AMBER from

different regions of the world.

Nine jewelery artists and more than fifty design

specimens using a variety of styles and techniques

with Baltic, Dominican and Sumatran amber –

make the announcement of the exhibition Amber: Around

the World, which will have its premiere at the Amber

Museum and Amberif fair in Gdansk, Poland.

Nine leading Polish artists accepted the invitation from

Janusz Fudala, a collector of amber from the USA, to par-

ticipate in the exhibition Amber: Around the World,

organized in collaboration with the Association of Gold-

smithing Artists. Its aim is to create unique works, link-

ing together three types of amber: Baltic, Dominican and

Sumatran, while maintaining the style developed by each

of the invited artists. They were matched so as to create

the most interesting, and most of all diverse exhibition.

The intent is to not only surprise with artistic and modern

form, but also to use an unusual approach to amber. This

is done not only with Baltic amber, recently more and more

strengthening its position as a modern stone, but also the

less known in Poland fluorescent blue amber from Sumatra

and honey amber from the Dominican Republic. “These

stones are still little known, but interest in them in recent

years has increased significantly. I hope that the exhibi-

tion Amber: Around the World will contribute to further

growth of their popularity. Polish artists have gone beyond

the normal and exposed unique styles, allowing their art-

istry to expose the hidden beauty of these stones”– said

Janusz Fudała, originator of the exhibition.

These artists are: Danka Czapnik, Sława Tchórzewska,

Marcin Tymiński, Andrzej Kupniewski, Jacek Byczewski,

Pawel Kaczynski, Slawomir Fijałkowski, Arek Wolski and

Art7 (Wojciech Kalandyk / Maciej Rozenberg). Their task

was to create a minimum of six objects using three types of

amber. For most of them the invitation to participate in this

exhibition is the first exposure to Dominican and Sumatran

amber. All of them have extensive experience with Baltic

amber – and this is what became a point of reference for

expressing new experiences. “Minerals from the Domini-

can Republic and Sumatra require much greater delicacy

and patience to work with, but the end result is worth it:

AMBER. AROUND THE WORLD

we can extract in such a way shades and colors unheard

of in Baltic amber, surprising shades of blue to navy and

the deep reds and oranges. This in turn opens up to us as

developers new possibilities for artistic expression,” – says

Andrzej Kupniewski.

This is the first exhibition, which is dedicated to not

one- as has been the tradition so far – but three different

varieties of amber from different regions of the world. How

will they appear in symbiosis together? What will be the

effects of the combining characteristic yellow color of Baltic

amber with a bluish fluorescence of Sumatran and orange-

red of the Dominican? How will the authors manage to

combine their developed styles with the challenge posed

by the new material? All this you will see on display at the

exhibition Amber: Around the World, which will have its

premiere at the International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and

Gemstones in Gdansk. The vernisage will take place at the

Report by Anna SADO

Amber Museum on March 26 at 7 p.m. and will enhance

exhibitions of Giedymin Jabłoński and the Academy of

Fine Arts in Gdansk. Then the exhibition will be on a

world tour with stops including Beijing (Polish Pavilion

at the Beijing International Jewelry Fair 2015), Legnica

(Festival SILVER), Ribnitz-Damgarten (German Amber

Museum), Warsaw (Museum of Earth Sciences) and Santo

Domingo (Amber World Museum). And all these jewellery

designs by leading Polish designers will be available for

purchase as well as viewing at each stop. Each designer

piece is unique, and in case of a sale, will be duplicated in

the image and likeness of the original, but no longer the

same, because of the uniqueness of the individual pieces

of amber and also the artistic vision inspired by its shape

or color. The exhibition will be accompanied by a catalog

with price list of the works and conditions of sale.

The exhibition Amber: Around the World is

intended as a recurring event.

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SŁAWA TCHÓRZEWSKA:I presented the amber in an unu-

sual way, a bit funny and somewhat

perverse. It meant a lot to me that,

this collection with various amber,

reflected recent years of my work

and the changes constantly taking

place in my head. Vivid color accents,

materials such as textiles, leather and

engraved plates – these are my hall-

marks. It all can also be found in this

collection, which is kind of a cross-

section of my previous discoveries

and accomplishments. Amber played

beautifully into it and became this

collection's main protagonist.

Exhibition Amber:

AROUND THE WORLD

Opening:

March 26, 2015 at 7:00 pm,

Amber Museum

Exposure:

International Fair Of Amber,

Jewellery and Gemstones

Amberif, March 25–28, 2015

Amber jewellery by Sława TCHÓRZEWSKA

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Amber jewellery by Andrzej KUPNIEWSKI

MARCIN TYMIŃSKI:This exhibition has mobilized me to reach for the materials,

which otherwise I would probably not be 'willingly' inter-

ested in. The initial effort to get to know these new stones

and mastering the principles of their treatment completely

paid off. As a result of experiments I discovered amazing

textures introducing novelty elements to my latest col-

lection of polished amber. Items designed by me for this

exhibit are created in this spirit and yet, thanks to the sur-

prising visual qualities of Dominican and Sumatran amber

it is a new collection.

Amber jewellery by Marcin TYMIŃSKI

ANDRZEJ KUPNIEWSKI:Amber from the Dominican Republic and Sumatra is

quite different in the treatment than the well-known

Baltic amber is, because it requires a unique gentleness

and patience. It is so rewarding to “invest” in it because

the result turns out to be absolutely sensational: it repays

you with the beautiful, surprising flashes of blue to dark-

er tones and deep reds through to orange shades. This

opens new avenues of expression for artists looking for a

whole new set of colors, complementing the already rich

palette of Baltic amber. This "artistic training ground" is

very important because with the manipulation of rough

amber bark, revealing the interior, building the atmos-

phere of contained inside the nugget, its inherent mystery

is exposed.

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AMBERIF is a trade-only event, addressed to per-

sons and businesses who trade in jewellery, jewellery art and

functional art. The event’s agenda is developed in partnership

with the SRJ Association of Jewellery Experts, the Interna-

tional Amber Association, the Pomeranian Crafts Chamber of

SMEs, the KIGB Polish Chamber of Amber Commerce and

the STFZ Goldsmithing Artists Association. The series of

gemmology education seminars is developed in partner-

ship with the PAS Museum of the Earth, the University of

Gdańsk Museum of Amber Inclusions and the Gdańsk Uni-

versity of Technology Faculty of Chemistry.

The Amber Look Trends&Styles Gala is one of

Amberif’s most important and most spectacular events. Its

aim is to promote the latest trends in jewellery art and

contemporary design. The Gala is a multimedia show fea-

turing collections from amber and gemstone jewellery

designers combined with fashion from celebrated Polish

designers. This year, the event will be held at the Gdańsk

Shakespeare Theatre. Amberif is accompanied by many

art events and prestigious competitions:

• AMBERIF DESIGN AWARD – the International

Competition for the Design of Jewellery with Amber

• The Bogdan Mirowski Mercurius Gedanensis Award-

named this way for the first time to commemorate

the great artist

• Exhibition previews at the Amber Museum, the

Gdańsk History Museum and at the new head office

of the International Amber Association

• Ndividual artist exhibitions

• Presentations of competition entries.

See you in Gdańsk!

AMBERIF 2015 / 25–28 MARCH 22nd International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstone

“URBAN collection, jewellery – AMBERMODA Mariusz Gliwiński,

fashion – Adrienne KÖRTVÉLY)

SPress Release by AMBERIF Press Office

More than 450 companies from Poland, Belgium, Brazil, Czech Republic, Ethiopia, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Lithu-

ania, the Netherlands, Romania, Spain, Thailand, Turkey, the UK and the USA

Buyers from more than 50 countries

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REPUBLIC OF POLAND

EU, NATO, Hallmarking ConventionCapital WarsawOfficial language PolishCurrency Złoty (PLN)Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2)Area – 312 685 km2

Population (2014) 38 495 659 Government Parliamentary republicPresident Bronisław KomorowskiPrime Minister Ewa KopaczGDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 10 281 EUREthnic groups

91.9% Poles8.1% others

Largest cities (2013)Warsaw 1 715 518Krakov 760 700Lodz 718 960

Latvia

Belarus

Ukraine

POLAND

Lithuania

› www.jgf-europe.com

A wide range of precious gemstones, coloured

gemstones, diamonds, pearls and jewellery ac-

cessories will await buyers at the loose materials

section of the Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe (JGF Europe).

This section will feature group pavilions from Germany,

Hong Kong, Thailand, and the United States. Exhibitors

under the banner of the Antwerp World Diamond Cent-

er (AWDC), ACODES of Colombia and the International

Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) will also exhibit in

this section of the fair.

JGF Europe will be held from 22 to 25 March 2015

in Messe Freiburg, Germany. It will feature 400 exhibi-

tors from around the world. As of January, over 60 % of

the exhibitors are from various parts of Europe, including:

Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Italy, Latvia, the Neth-

erlands, Poland, Russian Federation, Spain, Switzerland,

Turkey, Ukraine and the United Kingdom. The fair also

features suppliers from Australia, Brazil, Colombia, Hong

Kong, India, Israel, Japan, Mauritius, Sri Lanka, Thailand,

the United Arab Emirates, and the United States, reaffirm-

ing the show’s international status.

Occupying 25,000 sqm of exhibition area, the fair has

expanded from three halls to four halls, including the cen-

tral foyer. Under the product sectorial concept, it will be

divided into three sections – loose materials, fine jewellery

and packaging, tools & equipment. “We are so glad that

many of our exhibitors in the loose materials section who

took part in the first edition are returning, this time with

bigger booths,” said Ms Celine Lau, Director of Jewellery

Fairs, UBM Asia.

JGF Europe continues to enjoy strong industry support,

particularly from recognised jewellery associations. Ms

Margaux Donckier, spokeswoman of AWDC, commented,

“For the second time, the Antwerp Diamond Pavilion will

represent the Antwerp diamond industry at JGF Europe.

The companies are ready to meet every demand and offer

the best diamonds imaginable.” To celebrate the grand

opening of the JGF Europe, the fair reception sponsored

by AWDC will be taken place on 22 March 2015.

The Vice President of ICA and Editor-in-Chief of Incolor

Magazine, Ms Jean Claude Michelou, added: “Participating

ICA members were happy to exhibit at the 2014 edition of

the show. The ICA is joining the fair’s second edition with

a pavilion that will expand further in the years to come.”

Group pavilions in loose material section will offer dis-

tinct market specialties, such as high quality emeralds from

ACODES and corals from the Italian Pavilion. The pavilions

from Germany, Hong Kong, Thailand and the United States

will showcase a range of beautiful loose semiprecious and

precious stones. Meanwhile, some of the world’s finest

diamonds will be available at the AWDC Pavilion.

Buyers can also expect to see renowned names in the

gemstone market such as Caram e. K., CHQ GmbH, Emil

Weis Opals KG and Paul Wild OHG from Germany, RMC

Gems HK Co from Hong Kong, Imagem from France, and

M. Golab Co Ltd from Thailand.

QUALITY LOOSE MATERIALS SUPPLIERS will gather at Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe 2015Press Release by JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR EUROPE Press Office

JGF Europe will be held from 22 to 25 March 2015 in Messe

Freiburg, Germany. It will feature 400 exhibitors from around the world

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This year, the 42nd INHORGENTA MUNICH has

shown again that it is an important order and com-

munication platform for manufacturers and special-

ist dealers. 1,055 exhibitors from 40 countries presented

their new products in the period from 20 to 23 February.

Many of them expressed how extremely satisfied they were

with the course of the trade show and praised the high

quality of the trade visitors and the good level of orders.

As for example Frank Maier, Managing Director at Leo Wit-

twer, who states: “We have had a very good frequency of

international trade visitors and good sales in Hall B2.”

Klaus Dittrich, Chairman of the Board of Management

of Messe München GmbH, is also very satisfied: “Despite

the tense situation in the industry, the trade show was char-

acterized by a very positive mood. The numerous orders

that were placed show that INHORGENTA MUNICH contin-

ues to be the most important platform for good business.”

Albert Ruppenthal, Managing Director of Ruppenthal,

joins in on this opinion: “We are delighted about the high-

quality trade audience which is even better than in the past

years. You really do not have the force anybody, the peo-

ple are prepared to buy.”

The majority of the 233 new exhibitors announced

already during the trade show that they would participate

again in the 2016. In total, over 26,000 visitors from more

than 75 countries came to Munich in order to gather infor-

mation about new products, trends and developments of

the industry. About one third of the visitors travelled to

Munich from abroad. The most strongly represented coun-

tries (in the following sequence) were, among others, Aus-

tria, Switzerland, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Great Britain

and Northern Ireland, the Czech Republic and Hungary.

The visitors’ satisfaction is also reflected in the results of

the survey conducted by the trade show market research

institute Gelszus Messe-Marktforschung: 94 percent of the

respondents rated INHORGENTA MUNICH as excellent, very

good or good. Primarily the atmosphere in the halls and the

high-quality ambiance were unanimously given a very good

evaluation by the visitors of the trade show.

In addition, INHORGENTA MUNICH has given fresh

impetus to the industry with the Inspiration Lab, which has

taken place for the second time this year. Besides the focal

subject “Made in Germany”, a further focus was on wear-

able technologies, intelligent jewelry objects and watches

as well as interactive fashion and accessories. The Smart-

watch Forum and the Seminar Program presented the

watch of the future. In addition, the latest developments

of the 3D printing technology as well as one of the first 3D

body scanners worldwide were presented.

As at previous editions, the trade show offered a

springboard for many young international artists and

young talented designers in Hall C2, where they had the

occasion to present their collections to a wide audience.

The next INHORGENTA MUNICH will be held from 12

to 15 February 2016 at the exhibition grounds of Messe

München.

INHORGENTA MUNICH 2015: Positive Impulses for the Industry

8 Exhibitors very satisfied with the high level of orders 8 High quality of the trade visitors 8 International mix of the visitors has increased

Report by INHORGENTA MUNICH Press Office

Further information on the trade show can be found at › www.inhorgenta.com

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Even before most people have properly arrived in

2015, the Gemworld Munich as one of the major

autumn fairs already throws its sheadow ahead.

So already now the registration period for the upcoming

event from October 30 to November 01, 2015 starts. Ex-

hibitors have time until April 30 to sign up for one of the

most important European trade fairs.

With over 42,000 visitors, of which about 6,000 trade

visitors coming from the jewelry sector, the Munich Show

– under whose umbrella the Gemworld takes place – has

an impressive record of perfomrance in 2014. Overall, the

exhibitors were very satisfied with the previous show and

the sales made.

Upon this momentum the organizers want to build in

2015 and continually expand the Munich autumn event as

a reliable platform for exhibitors and buyers.

"Young Design" plays a major role for the perfor-

mance as a trend platform during the Gemworld Munich.

In this context the talent competition "Young Designers

Corner" 2015 takes place once again and will be awarded

for the fourth time. It was able to convince in recent years

with high-caliber submissions. For the final round of 2015

students and graduates of European design academies are

now invited to submit their designs until August 31.

More information about the show and the talent com-

petition can be found at www.gemworldmunich.com.

The next Gemworld Munich will take place from 30

October to 01 November 2015 at the exhibition center

Munich.

WITH MOMENTUM into the new year

Europe‘s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn.www.gemworldmunich.com

Meet the international Gemworld in Munich.

Phot

o: F

a. H

ans

D. K

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er, I

dar-

Ober

stei

n – P

arai

ba-R

ings

Don’t miss

exhibitor registration

deadline: April 30 th 2015!

150224mtm_rzAz_BJN_GW_210x297_E_4c.indd 1 25.02.2015 12:33:04

Czech Republic

FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

EU, NATOCapital BerlinOfficial language GermanCurrency Euro (EUR)Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2)Area – 357 021 km2 Population (2014) 80 716 000Government Federal parliamentary constitutional republicPresident Joachim GauckChancellor Angela MerkelGDP (PPP) Per capita (2014) 33 100 EUREthnic groups

91.5% German8.5% others

Largest citiesBerlin 3 471 756Hamburg 1 786 448Bavaria 1 353 186

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Report by GEMWORLD MUNICH Press Office

Europe‘s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn.www.gemworldmunich.com

Meet the international Gemworld in Munich.

Phot

o: F

a. H

ans

D. K

rieg

er, I

dar-

Ober

stei

n – P

arai

ba-R

ings

Don’t miss

exhibitor registration

deadline: April 30 th 2015!

150224mtm_rzAz_BJN_GW_210x297_E_4c.indd 1 25.02.2015 12:33:04

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AMBER IS COMING BACK INTO FASHION WORLDWIDE

Report by KALININGRAD AMBER COMBINE and JSC AMBER YUVELIRPROM Press Offices

Representatives of today’s amber industry are very

optimistic about the increased interest in “solar

stone” articles seen all over the world – from

America to Japan. Fashion houses and top designers are

discovering its unique features and creating amazing

amber jewellery collections, thus, providing a new modern

spin on this ancient natural material. This revived interest

in fashion of amber, already known as the “new pearl”

among designers, has happened alongside Russian plans

to revive the amber industry and elevate the status of the

“solar stone”.

The industry is being developed in a number of directions.

A major technical upgrade of Kaliningrad Amber Combine’s

production facilities – the only enterprise in the world that

mines and processes the “solar stone” on an industrial scale

– with the support of Rostec State Corporation, made it

possible not only to increase the production of raw amber,

but also, through the use of innovative technology, to raise

the share of coarse mineral, most popular among jewellers,

to up to 40-50% of the total volume.

COOPERATION WITH LEADING JEWELLERS AND DESIGNERSIn 2014, Kaliningrad Amber Combine began active

cooperation with leading jewellers and well-known designers

in Russia and the West. New large-scale projects opened up

additional opportunities for a wider range of production –

from furniture to jewellery, accessories, and artwork.

One perfect example of the new approach is the

Valentin Yudashkin Royal Amber Jewellery capsule collection

designed by fashion designer Valentin Yudashkin who has

used the rarest and most expensive “royal” amber produced

by Kaliningrad Amber Combine in the Palmniken minefield.

This collection, consisting of “solar stone” earrings,

bracelets, and necklaces, combined with black diamonds,

elegantly chased in silver and gold, presented during Paris

Fashion Week in September, 2014, and as part of the prêt-

à-porter show for Spring-Summer 2015 at the opening of

the Moscow Fashion Week, was highly praised by experts

and international media for its originality and relevance. The

project gained momentum in 2015, and fashion designer

Advertising campaign for the Royal Amber Jewellery Collection

by the Russian designer Valentin YUDASHKIN

THIS REVIVED INTEREST IN FASHION OF AMBER, ALREADY

KNOWN AS THE “NEW PEARL” AMONG DESIGNERS, has happened

alongside Russian plans to revive the amber industry and elevate the status of the

“SOLAR STONE”

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Russia's largest producer of amber articles participates

regularly in Russian and international jewellery shows and

constantly brings the range of both premium and bulk

products to perfection. To meet the increased customer

demand for products made of amber and precious metals,

the plant has increased the capacities of the silver casting

line; it is restoring the section for producing amber

jewellery using gold.

Every six months, the company presents new and

modern collections designed by talented young artists,

designers, and carvers. In 2014 alone, the company

produced more than 70,000 units of amber jewellery of

1,300 names.

To market its products, Yantarny Yuvelirprom has

opened a chain of brand shops, boutiques, in cities –

centres of tourism in Kaliningrad region. The concept of

the shops embodies a new philosophy and culture of the

jewellery trade; it combines a modern architectural design

of salesrooms, top-level service, and highly competent

sales consultants. Its short-term plans include expansion of

the brand retail chain outside the Kaliningrad region, and

thereafter – outside Russia.

A CHANCE FOR AMBER INDUSTRY REPRESENTATIVES TO JOIN FORCES“The interest of consumers around the world in “solar

stone” articles is a great chance for leading representatives of

Europe’s amber industry to join forces to further strengthen

the position of amber in the world jewellery market. In this

regard, Russian and European producers should act as solid

allies. This primarily means the creation of transparent rules

for cooperation and development of fair competition,” says

the Director of the company Mikhail Zatsepin.

Today, Russia is focusing on the transition from the

model of a raw material economy to domestic production

with high added value. Let the whole world know that,

besides oil, gas, metal ore resources, which have long

been associated with our country, Russia possesses one

more national treasure – amber. The Kaliningrad region is

home to 90% of the world reserves of this unique natural

mineral, thus, our country, as a monopoly of the “solar

stone” commercial production, has a special responsibility

for the situation of the world's amber market.

One of the major threats to the industry is illegal mining

and illegal market amber turnover. In this regard, Russia

considers it important to draw market players’ attention

to the fact that the use of illegally mined and purchased

raw materials not only harms the industry through shaving

“THE INTEREST OF CONSUMERS AROUND THE WORLD IN “SOLAR

STONE” ARTICLES IS A GREAT CHANCE FOR LEADING REPRESENTATIVES OF

EUROPE’S AMBER INDUSTRY TO JOIN FORCES TO FURTHER STRENGTHEN THE POSITION OF AMBER IN THE

WORLD JEWELLERY MARKET. In this regard, Russian and European producers should

act as solid allies. This primarily means the creation of transparent rules for cooperation

and development of fair competition,” says the Director of the company MIKHAIL

ZATSEPIN

Yudashkin became so passionate about processing this

natural material that he decided to design a second collection

based on the baroque interior of the famous Amber Room.

Unique amber articles of Russian craftsmen who

skilfully combine traditions with original stone processing

techniques, are very popular today and decorate the

interiors of the palaces of Arab sheikhs, villas of Chinese

billionaires, and ancestral castles of Europe's oldest families.

AMBER IS REGAINING ITS POPULARITY IN RUSSIAIn Russia, the “solar stone” is regaining its popularity

at a spectacular pace, too. This is also attributable to

the successful operation of JSC Yantarny Yuvelirprom, a

fast growing subsidiary of Kaliningrad Amber Combine.

Significant investment was made to upgrade the company’s

equipment, so, now it is ready to produce much larger

volumes of jewellery than ever before at a lower cost.

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In Russia, amber will be sold at revamped luxury-class stores

prices for raw materials and finished products, but also

promotes the activities of illegal “solar stone” miners,

who cause irreparable damage to the environment of the

entire Baltic region. Therefore, Russia urges all market

participants to abandon the use of illegal raw materials

and – as the leader in the amber market – is making

significant efforts thereto itself.

AMBER COMBINE HAS CHANGED THE COUNTERPARTY HANDLING PROCEDURE In 2014, Kaliningrad Amber Combine completely changed

the procedure for handling counterparties – now the plant’s

amber is available only to enterprises and craftsmen listed in

the region’s special register of bona fide processors and who

have an impeccable professional and business reputation. In

2015, over 30 Russian companies came together to found

the Association of Amber Industry, which became the major

and the first Russia trade association of amber processors.

The Association includes the only enterprise in Russia

that mines the “solar stone” on an industrial scale – SUE

Kaliningrad Amber Combine, the largest producer of mineral

articles JSC Yantarny Yuvelirprom, and several of Russia’s

leading amber processors and jewellers. The Association

is headed by the founder of Emelyanov and Sons Amber-

Redwood Manufactory – Aleksandr Emelyanov. Among his

major objectives, are the promotion of amber processors’

interests, collaboration with international trade associations

and state agencies in implementing joint projects, and the

development of training and qualification programmes for

amber processors.

TODAY’S GLOBAL AMBER MARKET IS GROWINGToday’s global amber market is growing. Poland, Ukraine,

and Lithuania started mining their own “solar stone”. All

these countries are our friends and colleagues, with their

own long traditions of amber production. And we are very

happy that amber is so popular and so loved worldwide.

Russia is open to cooperation with the Baltic neighbours.

The famous Amber Room is the clearest example of the

intertwining of Russian and European histories of amber.

This globally renowned masterpiece, which saw the light

of day by virtue of the talent of architect Schlüter and the

unique craftsmanship of Prussian cutters Turau and Schacht,

was enhanced by the efforts of Polish, German and Russian

craftsmen under the supervision of Italian Rasstrelli, and

later restored by Russian jewellers with the support of the

German company E.ON Ruhrgas AG, is the most tremendous

piece of work ever created using amber.

Keeping in mind the German masters who shared their

secrets with our stone cutters after World War II and, thus,

had a great influence on the foundation of the Russian

school of decorative amber processing, Russia is now

ready to launch and create joint international training and

educational projects.

Kaliningrad Amber Combine – the worldwide leader

in amber mining and processing – is planning to establish

a range of creative workshops, production departments,

and expositions within the area using its capacities and raw

material resources. We invite our colleagues to join these

projects. Given the benefits of the Special Economic Zone

in the Kaliningrad region, we hope that this cooperation

will be seen as interesting by our foreign partners – both

in terms of implementing creative ideas and for expanding

their business.

A long time prevailing stereotype that amber is an old-

fashioned material, with its heyday now history, has been

completely defied. The “solar stone” is rapidly coming

back into fashion worldwide, and Russia is eager to do its

best to keep amber at the top.

Today’s global amber market is growing. POLAND, UKRAINE, AND LITHUANIA

STARTED MINING THEIR OWN “SOLAR STONE”. All these countries are our friends and colleagues, with their own

long traditions of amber production. And we are very happy that amber is so

popular and so loved worldwide. RUSSIA IS OPEN TO COOPERATION WITH THE

BALTIC NEIGHBOURS

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T A B L E T W A X I N J E C T O R

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Press release by RESTEC JUNWEX

27 May is the opening of the event so beloved

by true luxury adorers of the capital – the

International Exhibition of Jewellery and

Watch Brands “JUNWEX New Russian Style.” After months

of preparation and lavish expectations, the exhibitors are

ready for serious work, and citizens and guests of Moscow

City – for spectacular and precious gifts.

Perhaps, the first thing worth noticing among the

accents of the project which is held every year in May by

Media Holding RESTEC JUNWEX within the single exhibition

programme “Jewellery Russia” is the incredibly positive

atmosphere, optimistic exhibitors who seek to delight

wholesale and retail buyers with unique novelties, brand new

designer collections, up-to-date jewellery and accessories, as

well as specialty watch models and watch models as status

symbols. Brilliant fashion shows under the arch of modern

pavilions of VDNH (the Exhibition of Achievements of National

Economy), presentations, surprises, and prize draws at the

stands of Russian and foreign brands create a magnificent

sense of celebration, enhanced by glowing jewellery.

You will find much that is interesting and unusual,

astonishing and mysterious, elegant and refined here.

You will see gorgeous diamond collections of Kostroma

companies, exceptional articles by craftsmen from Ural

region, charming jewellery of St. Petersburg companies,

original works of jewellers from faraway Yakutia, amber

creations from the Kaliningrad region, exotic ensembles of

Brazilian manufacturers, innovative designs of Asian brands,

rare colour stone jewellery from around the world...

But, you will remember “JUNWEX New Russian Style”

not only for its jewellery delights – there is also quite a busy

agenda for businessmen. Roundtable meetings will address

problems between offline and online trade, the rise in the

profitability of regional sales, and the role of the mass trade

association – “Russian Jewellery Trade” Club – in this process.

RIA RosYuvelirExpert will for the first time hold a

so-called “expo-educational programme” for everyone:

professional advice on all stages of preparation for the

exhibition and brand promotion. The JUNWEX training

centre has developed a complete programme of seminars,

workshops, and master classes, with presentations by well-

known marketers, psychologists, business coaches, assaying

inspectorate experts, etc. A range of topics, aimed primarily at

managers and staff of trading companies, covers advertising,

merchandising, occupational health and safety, reducing

tax burden, financial monitoring, etc. A Business Contacts

Exchange, enabling more effective negotiations between

jewellery vendors and retailers, will be available every day.

The number of exhibition visitors – both wholesale and

retail – is growing steadily year on year. As the head of the

Platina company, Andrey Chernov, noted, “Over the years of

cooperation with Media Holding RESTEC JUNWEX and the

Russian Jewellery Trade Club, we formed the consistent habit

to replenish the retail collection four times a year. Today, this

supply pattern is fully in step with cyclical operations of the

market. If two exhibitions were enough before, holding four

seasonal expositions is a vital foundation today, allowing

both manufacturers and shops to operate successfully.

Thus, “JUNWEX Petersburg” (February), “JUNWEX New

Russian Style” (May), “JUNWEX Moscow” (September) and

“Best Russian Jewellery” (December) have created a single

and precisely operating system for selling products at trade

shows and delivering only essential additional goods to

stores in the periods between shows.”

Indeed, the time when a jewellery store’s cooperation

was limited to few suppliers has passed. Today, playing by

the new rules is vital, featuring key elements of demand

and constant marketing, supplying the market with those

products that will be most in demand in the coming season.

One of the key components of the “JUNWEX New

Russian Style” programme is the annual All-Russian Contest

“Days of Russian Jewellery Market Leaders.” During each

day of the exhibition, a jury consisting of respected art

critics will evaluate masterpieces of domestic jewellery

craftsmen. The names of the winners in eleven categories

are traditionally announced at the gala award ceremony.

This event is a unique opportunity for visitors to the show

to be the first to see the best works, highly appraised by the

competent Board of Experts and rightfully recorded into the

honorary “Annals of Russian Jewellery of the XXI Century".

We invite you to visit our show and find the best jewel-

lery, perfect gifts, business ideas, or just a good mood!

JUNWEX NEW RUSSIAN STYLE – Jewellery Show

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What is so distinctive

about working with

the “Baltic gem”? An

artist-amber processor is a little like

a musician. Each piece of amber is a

kind of note, and the artist’s task is

to use these various notes to com-

pose his own melody. No two pieces of amber are alike.

Even though an author repeats his work, it is different in

the end, not like the previous one. That’s the beauty and

uniqueness of amber.

Artists treat the “Baltic gem” differently. Glancing at

a piece of amber, each craftsman sees its fate in his own

way. One imagines it as a future piece of jewellery and

thinks about how to combine amber and metal to high-

light the beauty of the stone. The other considers how

to bring the natural pattern of different pieces of amber

together and to create an expressional design, either relief

or mosaic.

Amber lovers know the names of our artists: Elena

Gradinarova, Aleksandr Koroliov, Konstantin Bushmelev,

Elena Tikhomirova, Mikhail Vorobyov, Lev Romanenko, and

many others. The artists’ works are exhibited at the largest

trade fairs of Russia and Europe.

ARTISTS-AMBER PROCESSORS JOIN THE UNION Kaliningrad Regional Branch of the Creative Artists'

Union of Russia (KRB CAUR) was established in 1998 and

Yuri VELIKOTSKY

WHY DO ARTISTS-AMBER PROCESSORS JOIN THE UNION?Report by Yuri VELIKOTSKY, Deputy Chairman of the Board of Kaliningrad Regional Branch of the Creative Artists' Union of Russia (KRB CAUR), Head of the Section of Applied Arts and Lapidary

now brings together over 70 paint-

ers, graphic artists, sculptors, jewel-

lers, and masters of applied deco-

rative arts. Most of Kaliningrad’s

“amber craftsmen” are also mem-

bers of our Union.

Why do amber-processing

artists join the Union? What help

or benefits are they offered? We

can firmly say – none. Each artist

solves the problems of purchasing

raw materials and selling finished

products himself. Some do it better,

some – worse. The only thing that

the Creative Artists' Union helps

with is organising exhibitions. The

Board of KRB CAUR uses every

opportunity to present the works of our artists to as

many people as possible, and regularly exhibits creations

of Kaliningrad craftsmen at Russian and international

trade fairs. We believe that a fair is not just a show of

new works created over the past year, not just a sharing

of experiences with colleagues and like-minded people,

but also a chance for artists to socialise informally with

officials at various levels, which can sometimes be difficult

in normal everyday life.

For example, the Vilnius “Amber Trip 2014” happened

to be the place where “amber craftsmen” from Kaliningrad

were lucky to meet the new Director General of Kaliningrad

Amber Combine, Mikhail Zatsepin. Though, no significant

results were achieved initially, this meeting allowed artists

to talk informally to one of the heads of the amber industry

in Russia for the first time, to show their own works (one

of them acquired by Michael Zatsepin for his collection).

Artists shared the challenges they faced in obtaining the

raw amber needed for their creative work. As a result of

the meeting at the Amber Trip 2014, Mikhail Zatsepin

firmly promised to address the problem of supplying the

artists with amber.

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It took some time, not just a day, to complete all the

paperwork, but it was done in the end – so, for the first

time in 15 years, members of the Creative Artists' Union

had official access to the raw materials for their work and,

of utmost importance, at government rates.

As a result, many artists were, finally able to implement

their long-cherished projects, which previously seemed

unachievable due to the lack of quality raw materials. I

hope you will see many of these works at “Amber Trip

2015” and other trade fairs and shows of our region.

Aleksandr KOROLIOV

Yuri VELIKOTSKY

Elena TIKHOMIROVA

Each artist solves the problems of purchasing raw materials and selling

finished products himself. Some do it better, some – worse.

THE ONLY THING THAT THE CREATIVE ARTISTS' UNION HELPS

WITH IS ORGANISING EXHIBITIONS

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THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION

Capital MoscowOfficial language RussianCurrency Russian rubleTime zone in Moscow (USZ1 (UTC+03:00)Area 17,1 million km2

Population (2015) 146 270 033Government A federal semi-presidential republic President Vladimir PutinPrime Minister Dmitry Medvedev GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 34 342 EUR Ethnic groups (2010) 91.65% Russians 1.42% Ukrainian 6.93% othersLargest cities Moscow 12 111 194 Saint Petersburg 4 879 566 Novosibirsk 1 473 754

RUSSIAN FEDERATION

Latvia

Estonia

“Time Traveler”. Amber from “Volodymyrets-Skhidnyi” amber deposit

Brooch and pendant "Papillon", "Methamorphosis" collection of the Organic Jewellery® direction by the maison "Karpov&Karpova Jewellery". Materials used: gold, diamonds, Ukrainian amberFor everyone who keeps hand on the pulse of amber

market tendencies, the situation in Ukraine seems

to be consistently helpless. In 2014 on the back-

ground of generally difficult situation in the country, all

chronic problems exacerbated, including issues in the field

of amber. But is it really so sad, as it all seems?

Ukraine ranks second in the world for the reserves of

amber, but the intricate regulation of subsoil use, exces-

sive complexity of the procedure of obtaining special per-

mission for use of mineral resources, the need to obtain

series of approvals to start mining operations discourages

potential investors from investing money in the develop-

ment of amber deposits. Thus, industrial amber extraction

is currently carried by only two companies – State enter-

prise Burshtyn of Ukraine and private company Sun-Craft

Centre” LLC.

Prices on the world amber market, small responsibility

for illegal mining, relative cheapness and ease of artisanal

mining technologies because of its near-surface occur-

rence – all this caused a real explosion of illegal amber

UKRAINE – AMBER LAND Incorrigible romantics and strategic direction for development of the industrySReport by UKRAINIAN AMBER WORLD ASSOCIATION

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Art-object “Aboriginal Sun”, made of natural amber. “Ambra Simha” collection

extraction on the territory of Ukrainian Polissya region.

According to law enforcement reports, area of illegal

extraction of amber was dramatically expanded over the

last year, capturing not only the Rivne region and but also

the northern side of Zhytomyr region.

Volodymyr Sokolovskiy, Supervisory Board Chairman,

Ukrainian Amber World Association: According to the vari-

ous estimates, up to 80 % of Ukrainian amber is currently

mined illegally by so-called “black diggers”. Unfortunately,

in 2014, the tendency of illegal mining of amber was only

strengthened. More and more often appears reports in

media about new clashes between “diggers”.

International experience indi-

cates the only way to solve these

problems – a legalization of min-

eral resources extraction by artisanal

method, precise regulation of artisa-

nal miners and cooperatives of pros-

pectors, creating market and sales

conditions for extracted amber.

Based on best practices from

around the world, NGO Ukrain-

ian Amber World Association devel-

oped the project of amendments

to the Code of Ukraine on mineral

resources and project of “Roadmap

of legalization of artisanal amber mining”. These materials

were sent for consideration to the Cabinet of Ministers of

Ukraine and the President of Ukraine.

Implementation of these changes into Ukrainian leg-

islation will give the opportunity of legal production and

selling of minerals extracted by artisanal mining method,

which in its turn will significantly reduce social tension

caused by the lack of job positions in local area and will

help to bring out large amounts of amber from “black

market”. In addition, the proposed “Roadmap” provides

implementation of recultivation activities on the territories

suffered from illegal mining that will allow to keep the

fertile soil layers, restore forest plantations and to prevent

other environmental issues.

Belichenko Olena, The head of expertise department,

State Gemology Centre of Ukraine: “Unauthorized amber

extraction problem can be solved only in condition of

implementation of legislation, which will regulate artisanal

amber extraction and simplification of the procedure of

obtaining the special permits for subsoil use on the con-

taining amber territories that have no industrial value. In

December 2014 – January 2015 were proposed the several

draft laws governing amber mining to the legislators: “On

peculiarities of extraction of raw amber from deposits and

manifestations that have no industrial value“, “On pro-

duction and sale of amber“, “On artisanal amber mining

activities“.

Active attention of public and mass-media to the

“amber issue” allows us to hope that the review and revi-

sion of laws, and current issues of civilized regulation of

all directions of the field will not be postponed, and the

country will be recovered from the “amber fever“.

Halyna Symha, Council Chairman, “Ukrainian Amber

World” Association, member of the World Amber Council,

AMBRA SIMHA owner: “I am an incorrigible romantic and

believe, that Ukraine will be known not only as a country

that has a “sunny treasure“ in its subsoil, but also as a civi-

lized state that has a system of legal and environmentally

correct amber extraction and production, without harm-

ing the nature...

Unfortunately, it is not working in full today, because

there are only two companies which doing amber extrac-

tion legally. But we believe and do everything to ensure

that the situation has changed for the better in the amber

mining sector.

Now, we keep on paving modern “Amber Route” and

carry our “amber philosophy” to the World, making it

amaze by creative, impressive and status projects made of

pure natural “sunny stone”. On our “Amber Route” map

already pointed by bright amber beads following cities:

Warsaw, Munich, Berlin, Istanbul, Monaco, Baku, Beijing

... And we’re preparing “amber surprise” for “Continent of

the Sun” – Australia.

I am firmly convinced that insistent dreamers are

changing the world and giving a miracle of cognition of

what have been created by Creator”.

On our “AMBER ROUTE” map already pointed by bright amber beads following cities: WARSAW, MUNICH, BERLIN, ISTANBUL, MONACO, BAKU, BEIJING

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Pitted land, armed men at checkpoints, exhausted

and nervous folk around... Sometimes, there is

gunfire and bloody clashes. This is not about long-

suffering Donbass. This is about the north of Zhytomyr

region, Olevsk district. This is the land of amber deposits.

You could get rich suddenly here, if you were lucky enough

to find amber and provided the mined stone is not taken

away by police officers or gangsters.

Here, in deep Polesye, employment is quite a problem.

Agriculture is poorly developed – just sands and rocks.

Practically, no industry. Deposits of amber are a salvation

from poverty. Any stone extracted can be sold right here.

The chance to earn a living in this way and the security

guarantees come with a price. Not to be paid to a tax offi-

cial though, but to bandits, as everybody understands.

There are militia raids from time to time just to take away

amber extracted by accidental minors. But bandits have

ruled before and continue to rule, as local residents say.

In fact, amber has to be produced illegally in Zhytomyr

region because the legal way is impossible owing to a gap

in the law: it is not profitable to extract the local amber

industrially, like the neighbouring Rivne region, however,

the current law does not stipulate any other legal ways.

The wealth, which is literally knocking around, does not

leave anyone cold. Almost everyone who lives near the

deposits is engaged in illegal amber digging. Diggers from

neighbouring districts and regions, in particular, from

Rivne arrive, too. As a result – harsh clashes like the one at

the end of January in the village of Suschany where each

party was represented by over 300 people that faced each

other.

AMBER PRODUCTION – ANOTHER WAR

Report by Viktor KONEV from www.zn.ua

Deposits of amber in the Zhytomyr region are distinctive

because of the fact that large companies see little point in

facing the time-consuming permit issuing bureaucracy for

the exploration and production of stone and in paying a

lot of money for the license. Amber production is actually

prohibited to individual artisanal miners and mining

cooperatives since neither of them is prescribed in the

Ukrainian legislation. This is the way the legislative void is

filled with lawlessness. As a result, a certain kind of order has

formed: those wanting to dig the earth shall pay 300 UAH

per day to a bandit in return for access to amber deposits.

The reason for the “criminalisation” of amber is because

amber is considered as precious a stone as diamonds.

It has been apparent for a long time that the solar stone

production by miners needs to be legalised. But it always

ends in talk. So, on 10 December 2014, the Verkhovna

Rada registered a draft law “On the production and sale of

amber” (No. 1 351), in which the concepts of “artisanal min-

ing claim” and “artisanal mining cooperative” were applied.

The essence of the document is that deposits of amber

in the Zhytomyr region should be the scope of a special

communal enterprise (CE) under regional subordination. CE

should be entrusted to deal with all aspects of relations

with artisanal mining cooperatives – starting from land

allocation to sales of mined stone on an amber exchange

(which still does not exist). Mining cooperatives have to pay

20% of the CE proceeds from the sale of extracted stone

on the exchange for the use of subsoil as a mining claim.

This draft law was proposed for consideration by the

People's Deputies Borislav Rosenblatt, Vladimir Areshonkov,

Pavlo Dziublik, Nikolai Tomenko, Vadim Krivenko, and

AMBER DEPOSITS OF ZHYTOMYR REGION ARE OCCUPIED BY THE WORLD OF CRIMINALS, WITH THE LEGALISATION OF AMBER PRODUCTION MAKING A MOVE FROM TALKS ... TO TALKS

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Vasili Janicki. Now, it is at the discussion and finalisation

stage. For this purpose, a task group of regional council

deputies, representatives of the regional administration,

and experts-geologists was formed in Zhytomyr. The

discussion also involved governors of northern areas of

Zhytomyr, with existing or potential deposits of amber.

During the first meeting of the task group on February

4 in Zhytomyr, an assistant of one of the authors of the

draft law Borislav Rosenblatt – Maxim Glushanitsa noted

that the purpose of the developed legislation was to

regulate the relationship between business entities, state

and local governments, as well as to reduce tension in the

region, which is undergoing spontaneous production of

amber, and to avoid an environmental catastrophe. The

draft law requires the participation of so-called artisanal

mining cooperatives in the production. Production control

rests with the local authorities at the regional level. For

this purpose a utility of a corresponding profile should be

created, one of the objectives of which should be maximum

simplification of licensing procedures for artisanal mining

cooperatives. In this case, they may be only those entities

or individuals that are registered in the area, so that all

taxes and fees are paid to the local budgets (and not to the

bandit “common fund.” – VK).

Judging by the presentation of the draft law, and

flow charts with commentary, the draft law was prepared

meticulously. However, it is impossible to speak about the

creation of a legal mechanism that works perfectly.

Participants in the discussion immediately raised the

question: why are village councils not allowed to partici-

pate in the regulation of amber production, especially since

so many excavations are on parcelled lands? According to

one opponent of the amber Mafia, a young journalist from

Olevsk named Alekandr Nikolaichuk, more than half of the

amber production areas are privately owned. In addition,

as noted by the discussion participants, most of the land

is zoned for agriculture. Plus there are significant deposits

on forest lands, including reserves and sanctuaries. How

to deal with amber mines in these areas is unclear, and the

draft law does not regulate this issue. So, criminals will still

have some control over the mining of the solar stone, if the

draft law in is adopted in its current form.

Does the draft law eliminate corruption schemes? No.

Rather, they have been introduced into it. In particular, Art.

5 prescribes that five years are allocated for geological sur-

veys of amber deposits and 20 years – for mining. Accord-

ing to the expert, Dr Elena Remezova, Senior Researcher at

the Institute of Geological Sciences of Ukraine (she is one

of the few scholars to have described deposits of amber in

the north of Zhytomyr region), all the amber will have been

mined from the area in one and half years, never mind 20

or even five years.

Perhaps the authors of the draft law had not under-

stood this. But there is a suspicion that such a rule was

introduced into the text intentionally, in order to allow full

production of amber in the guise of a survey area, without

showing the entire amber production, and also saving on

other payments, as is now done with granite extraction.

According to Dr Remezova, one of the reasons for

the criminalisation of amber production in the Zhytomyr

region was the classification of this stone on a par with

diamonds. This is guaranteed by the Resolution of the

Cabinet of Ministers of 18 May 1993 (No. 5 393) “On the

State Assay Office”. In Poland, for example, amber has the

status of an ornamental jewellery stone. There, the issuing

of permits for production and formalising mining claims is

assigned to the local authorities.

The expert noted the need to legally define the maxi-

mum depth at which it will be possible to produce amber

by an artisanal method. It is one thing to dig to a depth

of one metre with a shovel and quite another - to extract

from a depth of ten metres using heavy equipment that

harms the environment.

Dr Remezova also noted that the draft law is unclear as

to who is the “artisanal miner”. In the usual sense they are

the ones who produce resources where it is impossible to

mine in an industrial way, or where using heavy machinery

is unprofitable. However, this is not mentioned in the draft

law being discussed.

Moreover, in her opinion, the future law should specify

where using the artisan method to extract minerals is

banned. For example, laws of some countries prohibit

artisanal activity in areas where minerals are industrially

mined, and in the areas, where special permits have been

or may be issued for their development. Finally, laws in

some countries prohibit artisanal activity in the reserves.

And, of course, the use of ground flushing pumps that

irreparably harm the environment should be prohibited.

The expert noted the need for further geological sur-

veys of the deposits of amber and their tracking. Geolo-

gists described features of amber occurrences in the Zhy-

tomyr region as early as the 1980s, but very superficially,

as if ‘by the way’, and now pre-surveys are needed. If this

is not done, a significant amount of resources will simply

be lost. That is exactly why Polish authorities map amber

occurrences and do not economise on financing these sur-

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1. Gulyanka2. Barashi3. Glinka4. Sushki-Belka 5. Ushomir 6. Mogilyany 7. Ovruch8. Zbranki9. Slovechno10. Maidan11. Perga12. Kopishche13. Prysluch14. Berezne15. Osova16. Rakitnoye17. Perebrody18. Sarny19. Tseptsevychi20. Berezhnytsia

I. The Ukrainian Shield (within the isopic base depth of 300 m)

II. The Volynsk-Podolsk PlatformIII. The Palaeozoic Lviv TroughIV. The Cretaceous-Paleogene

Black Sea BasinV. The Mesozoic Dnepropetrovsk-

Donetsk TroughVI. The Devonian-Early

Carboniferous Pripyatsk-Dnepropetrovsk Trough (Central Graben)

VII. The Southern Flank of Voronezh Crystal Diastrophic Block, Epi-Palaeozoic Scythian Platform

VIII. The Early Cretaceous Rift-Induced Karkinit Northern Crimea Trough

IX. The Cretaceous-Paleogene Central Crimea Elevation

X. The Cretaceous Alma Basin Contorted Beds and adjoining troughs

XI. GERTSINK 1. The Marmarosh Diastrophic Block, reworked by the Alpine Orogeny 2. The Northern Dobrudja, Reworked by Cimmerian Orogeny 3. The Donbass

XII. The Carboniferous-Early Triassic Pre-Dobrudja Marginal Trough

21. Ivanychi22. Kidry23. Triputnya24. Niveck25. Berestia26. Dubrovica27. Mochulishche28. Lyutynsk29. Vysotsk30. Lyudyn 31. Yasynets32. Lesovoye33. Zhuravychi34. Bol. Medvezha35. Oleksandrivka 36. Volodymyrivka37. Stara Moshchanytsya38. Mogilyany39. Individual amber

finds

40. Individual amber finds41. Yavorov 42. Individual amber finds43. Individual amber finds44. Lviv45. Verkhnje Synovydne 46. Individual amber finds47. Rozdol48. Individual amber finds49. Individual amber finds50. Individual amber finds51. Delyatin52. Mizuny53. Radomyshl54. Mezhyhirya55. Bucha56. Vyshgorod57. Rzhyshchiv58. Kanev59. Horol Chorol

60. Kremenchuk61. Novomoskovsk62. Dnipropetrovsk63. Kharkiv64. Novovorontsovka65. Kamyanka-Dniprovska66. Berislav67. Kahovka68. Novoazovsk69. Yalpug 70. Syrnitsa71. Rafalovka72. Gorodets73. Huta Stepanska74. Zlazne75. Zamyslovichi76. Ustynivka

1. Gulyanka plot2. Barashi plot3. Glinki4. Sushki-Belka

Ancient Eastern European (pre-Riphean) PlatformStructural zoning:

Schematic Map of Deposit Fields and Occurrences of Amber in Ukraine

AMBER-BEARING AREAS SECONDARY AMBER CCURRENCES POTENTIAL OCCURRENCES1. Klesov-Perzhansk2. Dubrovytsya-

Volodymyrec3. Barashev4. Menevychi5. Mohylyany6. Verkhnodniprovsk7. Srednedniprovsk8. Nizhnedniprovsk

(Prichernomorsk)9. Carpathian

1. Klessov2. Vilna3. Petrivci4. Volodymyrec-

Vostochny5. Viktoriv

XIII. The Cimmerian-Alpine Crimean Upland and the Kerch Peninsula

THE ALPINEXIV. The Ukrainian Carpathian MountainsXV. The Miocene-Pliocene Trans-Carpathian Inner

TroughXVI. The Miocene Pre-Carpathian Marginal TroughXVII. The Oligocene-Miocene Indol-Kuban Marginal

Trough

AMBER OCCURRENCES AND FINDS

veys. “The nation needs to know what it holds, otherwise

we will miss a lot,” –emphasised Elena Remezova.

The scientist’s deep and comprehensive analysis of the

draft law at the hearing apparently tired the Chairman of

the task group meeting, the Deputy Head of the Zhytomyr

Regional State Administration Vyacheslav Polishchuk, and

he suggested the scientist email her written comments. As

if, instead of exchange of views, the purpose of the event

was to exchange e-mails.

“Bandits did something that was not made by the Gov-

ernment – they streamlined production of amber.” And

have taxed it with their own tax...

A statement by the journalist and human rights activ-

ist of Olevsk Alexander Nikolaichuk, conducting his own

investigation of illegal extraction of amber in the northern

regions of Zhytomyr, was very incisive. He literally accused

law enforcement of inaction. According to him, the law

needs to be adopted, but before it is done the situation

should anyway stay within the legal framework. And this is

just not the case. Indeed, how law enforcement agencies

should be managed and what kind of agencies are they,

if tons of illegally mined amber are taken out “with them

watching”?!

– North Zhytomyr region and, in particular, Olevsk

area are under criminal occupation, – said the journalist

and human rights activist. It is the bandits who have suc-

ceeded, as they have done something that the Govern-

ment failed to do – they streamlined the production and

sale of mined amber. Despite periodic police raids, armed

bandit groups keep manning the same checkpoints they

have installed and keep collecting 300 UAH per day from

those wishing to dig for amber. And they do this without

hiding from anyone! And in the villages of Suschany and

Khochin (Olevsk district) armed bandits block traffic on the

road leading to a border crossing point on the Ukrainian-

Belarusian border. Bandits force their terms on us! How are

they better than terrorists in East Ukraine?

As Alexander Nikolaychuk said, the police occasionally

conduct raids, during which they take away amber found

by ordinary seekers of luck, local residents, but they do

not touch the criminals. At the same time, nearly all the

locals there dig for amber and consider it to be their own

resource. To take over the control from criminals, local

amber mining has to be legitimised.

– Back in 2007, a geography teacher in our school

burned pieces of amber, and said that it may be the cause

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of a future war. Honestly, I did not believe it then, – admit-

ted the journalist.

So, the deputies understand that the unregulated

production of amber in the Zhytomyr region should be

streamlined and legitimised. However just adopting a rel-

evant draft law is no longer enough – it is too late for that,

and the initiative is in the hands of criminals now. It needs

to be taken over. But this means another war on the terri-

tory of our sovereign state.

WHERE UKRAINIAN AMBER OCCURSAs Elena Remezova told the correspondent of ZN.UA,

there is a major geological amber area stretching along the

Dnieper River (see the schematic map). The greatest concen-

tration of amber deposits is in Rivne region, mainly in Sarn-

ensk and Volodimirets districts. There are three “official”

deposits which are included in the Government balance

sheet: Klesovsk, developed by state enterprise “Ukrbur-

shtin,” Volodimirets-Eastern, developed by a private com-

pany ‘Sonyachne Remeslo’. The third deposit, “Vilne”, is not

yet under development. Other deposits are being explored.

Unlike Rivne, Zhytomyr region most likely has a few

large deposits or none at all. The most attractive ones are

primarily the area near the village of Perga (Olevsk district),

a small area near Barashi village (Emilchinsk district). Only

Viktorovsk deposit (also Emilchinsk district), included in the

balance sheet of PJSC “Kvartssamotsvety”, was explored

with a view to industrial mining. All these deposits need to

be explored more thoroughly. In that area the distribution

of amber is not homogenous, it has a pattern of nest con-

centrations. The very nest may contain much stone, how-

ever, if you step back a little – there is nothing around. And

if the deposits of Rivne region have some consistent amber

distribution patterns, these have not yet been discovered

in Zhytomyr region.

“You need to look for other types of amber “traps”

here than in Rivne region, where such traps had been

formed by the ancient sea,” explains Elena Remezova, “It

could be a spit, a bay bar, or a sink hole. In Zhytomyr, with

a higher terrain, all non-homogenous deposits are distrib-

uted along ancient valleys and require special study meth-

ods. We can confidently say that that amber deposits in

Zhytomyr are small, however abundant. Olevsk, Emilchinsk,

Korosten districts are also known for deposits. They could

probably also exist in Ovruch and Luginsk districts. People

also used to find amber in Radomyshlsk district”.

According to the scientist, Zhytomyr amber is of high

quality, it is no worse than the Baltic or Klesovsk one. It

has a wide colour range. For example, rare green amber is

found in the area of the village of Perga. However classic

honey-yellow colours are dominant.

By the amount of extracted amber, Ukraine is second

only to Russia. Yet, the quality of Ukrainian amber is much

better. For instance, if Russian deposits generate as low

as 10–15 % of jewellery grade amber, the Ukrainian ones

generate at least 25 %.

And finally let us discuss amber prices. The Internet sell-

ing prices for raw unprocessed amber from Ukraine are as

follows: the fraction of 2 to 5 g – 205 USD/kg; 5 to 10 g

– 540 USD/kg; 10 to 20 g – 1,160 USD/kg; 20 to 50 g –

1,780 USD/kg; 50 to 100 g – 1,980 USD/kg; 100 to 200 g –

2,420 USD/kg. Larger pieces range from 200 g to 1 kg and

are sold at special prices.

Belarus

UKRAINEPoland

UKRAINE

Capital KievOfficial language UkrainianCurrency Ukrainian hryvnia (UAH)Time zone CET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+3)Area 603,628 km2Population (2014) 44 291 413Government Unitary semi-presidential constitutional republicPresident Petro PoroshenkoPrime Minister Arseniy YatsenyukGDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 7 498 EUREthnic groups 77.8% Ukrainians 17.3% Russians4.9% others Largest cities Kiev 2 872 200 Kharkiv 1 470 902

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36


HOUSE OF AMBER PRESENTS NEW COLLECTION:“GLAMOROUS GREEN AMBER BY MAI MANNICHE”

“I'm very proud of the cooperation with House of Amber. It has been fascinating and inspiring to work with amber and create new designs that use amber in other ways than we are used to seeing, ” says jewellery designer Mai MANNICHE

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Glam by Mai MANNICHE

A new collaboration between the historic jewellery

house and the trendy designer brings amber to

life in new sparkling styles.

Caribbean green amber is a unique type of amber,

which the Danish jewellery designer Mai Manniche,

JEWLSCPH, fell in love with at first sight. She has designed

a jewellery collection for House of Amber, which will be in

House of Amber's Scandinavian shops from 1st of Novem-

ber 2014.

Mai Manniche is known and cherished for her beau-

tiful contemporary designs and high quality – House of

Amber is known for its dedication and love to amber. Thus

the stage is set for a perfect match.

The jewellery collection “Glamorous Green Amber

by Mai Manniche” is centered around faceted Caribbean

green amber combined with cherry amber or white topaz

gemstone in rose gold plated sterling silver. A beautiful

and elegant – but also very innovative look – which will

match today's modern women.

“Glamorous Green Amber by Mai Manniche” consists

of three jewellery lines: “Pure Drop”, “Divine” and “Glam”

with prices from 995 kr.

ABOUT HOUSE OF AMBERHouse of Amber is one of the oldest manufacturers

of amber and today also one of the largest. The company

was founded in 1933 and has for generations been guar-

anteeing exclusive amber jewellery of the highest quality.

In recent years, House of Amber has presented a number

of collections in collaboration with talented Danish design-

ers. Collections are sold in Scandinavia, China and Hong

Kong. Read more about House of Amber: www.houseo-

famber.com

ABOUT MAI MANNICHE, JEWLSCPHMai is the woman behind the jewellery company

JEWLSCPH. She is driven by her passion for gemstones and

precious metals in beautiful designs. At the same time, Mai

emphasizes jewellery styling and how the perfect piece of

jewellery helps to highlight all women's individual style.

Read more about JEWLSCPH:

Press Release by HOUSE OF AMBER Press Office

› www.JEWLSCPH.com & www.MAIMANNICHE.dk

Divine by Mai MANNICHE

Glam by Mai MANNICHE

Pure drop by Mai MANNICHE

Sweden

DENMARK

KINGDOM OF DENMARK

EU, NATO, Hallmarking ConventionCapital CopenhagenOfficial language DanishCurrency Danish krone (DKK), 1 EUR – 7.4605 DKKTime zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2)Area 357 021 km2

Population (2014) 5 639 719Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchyMonarch Margrethe IIPrime Minister Helle Thorning-Schmidt GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 36 597 EUREthnic groups

87% Scandinavians13% others

Largest citiesCopenhagen 1 935 746 Aarhus 252 213Odense 158 678

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Lars Tore HOGSNES is director, while the founders Birgit LØITEGAARD and Franz TITULAER are head of the designdepartment and the export department

A&C is a story about daring to be

different, believing in yourself

and making your own choic-

es. It’s about endless optimism, creativity and willpower.

By telling their story jewellers want to inspire you to tell

yours…

By A&C Press Office

A&C JEWELLERY OUT OF LOVE

away. They decided they wanted their travel to last for-

ever, and started up as street sellers in Tokyo, where they

offered their first collection of home made jewellery.

A&C founders, Birgit and Franz met on a golden beach

Arts & Crafts is a Norwegian jewellery company found-

ed in 1984 after the two designers had met on an adven-

turous trip through Asia back in the late 70ies. She was

from Norway and he was from Holland, they back packed

their way through Asia and met on a golden beach far

Traveling Japan as street sellers – the early beginning of A&C

After living in Japan, Birgit & Franz found paradise on

an Philippine Island and built their own bamboo house on

a sandy beach. They worked and lived among the Philip-

pine mountain tribes and started to export local handicraft

to Europe. This experience gave the young couple a hard

lesson in the ways of life - human relations, culture, poli-

tics, and corruption. After six years of travelling and living

in Asia, they decided to move back to Europe.

Back in Norway in 1984 the couple continued to sell

jewellery and the handicraft they had produced on the Phil-

ippines – quality products of real craftsmanship - hence the

company was founded, and the name was "Arts & Crafts".

A&C headoffice is located in beautiful green surround-

ings in Lier, not far from Oslo, in an old beautiful dairy

building. Lars Tore Hogsnes is director, while the found-

ers Birgit Løitegaard and Franz Titulaer are head of the

designdepartment and the export department. All the

functions of design, administration, sales, marketing and

logistics are handled from here.

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Check › http://www.ac.no

KINGDOM OF NORWAY

Hallmarking ConventionCapital OsloOfficial language NorwegianCurrency Norwegian krone (NOK); 1 EUR – 8.23 NOKTime zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2)Area 385 252 km2

Population (2014) 5 109 059 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchyKing King Harald VPrime Minister Erna Solberg GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 100 818 EUREthnic groups

86.2% Norwegians13.8% others

Largest citiesOslo 876 391Bergen 257 752Stavanger/Sandnes 189 828 Sweden

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Their bijouterie is handmade of non-precious metals

such as copper, pewter and metal alloy. Earring hooks and

posts are made of surgical steel. The metal is plated with

silver, gold, copper, brass or rhodium. Much of our jewel-

lery is decorated with enamel paint and Swarovski crystals.

Sometimes we also use acrylic stones, glass and acrylic

beads, semi precious stones and real freshwater pearls.

Because of Birgit and Franz travel experiences and spe-

cial history together, A&C has always lived by the rules of

Ethical Trade and our jewellery design will always be influ-

enced by the colourful diversity the world has to offer.

40


NOBEL Jewellery Prize

By Sanna SVEDESTEDT & Karin Roy ANDERSSON Diagonal [email protected]

The Nobel Jewellery Prize was introduced in 2010 by Diagonal. Since then the prize has been

awarded annually to intelligent, creative and innovative jewellers. Here are the winners of 2014:

Carina CHITSAZ-SHOSHTARY “Medulla 3″, necklace, 2014. Cactus, graffiti, silver. Photo: Laurens BURRO

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CHEMISTRYThis year the Chemistry Nobel Prize was given to Eric

Betzig, Stefan Hell and William Moerner for their research

on super high resolution microscopy, which with high pre-

cision makes it possible to see nano scale details, for exam-

ple in virus and bacteria.

We will award the 2014 Nobel Jewellery Prize in Chem-

istry to Carina Chitsaz-Shoshtary. Chitsaz-Shoshtary brings

out details that have been covered in layers of graffiti

paint. She reveals treasures and put them together creat-

ing new shapes that gives unexpected synergy effects.

Nhat-Vu DANG, Blooming Rose / Brooch, 2014. Rigid Foam, Lacquer, Paint, Glue, PVC, Plexiglass, Remanium Steel.

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PHYSICSThe 2014 Nobel Prize in physics acknowledge an inven-

tion that has revolutionized the modern technology. Isamu

Akasaki, Hiroshi Amano and Shuji Nakamura gets the prize

for their energy-saving and bright diodes. In other words

– it was all about light and energy this year, and we fol-

low the same line when we give the 2014 Nobel Jewellery

Prize in Physics to Nhat-Vu Dang. Nhat-Vu Dang has been

experimenting with light and colour, inspired by plants’

way of using sun rays, adjusting their position in order to

get the most of the valuable sun energy. His work puts

focus on how to find new ways to use nature’s techniques

for sustainable development.

MEDICINEJohn O’Keefe, May-Britt Moser and Edvard Moser got

the Nobel Prize in medicine for their discoveries on how

our sense of direction and our memory works.

We will give the Nobel Jewellery Prize in Medicine to

Amy Tavrn. Her jewellery work captures memories. Pro-

cessed and transformed they are reinterpreted by the

viewer and become platforms for discussions and new

ideas. The installation “Departing Ship” paints a melan-

cholic and beautiful picture of Alzheimer’s disease. A help

to ease and to process the sickness of a loved one.

Tarja TUUPANEN, necklace 2014. Ready-made marble tableware, velour sticker, steelwire, brass. Photo: Lassi RINNO

Amy TAVERN, Departing Ship, 2014. 68 Navy pea coat buttons, safety pins. Photo: Hank DREW

ECONOMYThe 2014 Prize in Economic Sciences in Memory of

Alfred Nobel was given to Jean Tirole for his analysis of

market power, a research providing tools to discover and

control the influence of too dominant actors.

LITERATUREPatrick Modiano from France got the Nobel Prize in

literature. With the motivation “For the art of memory

with which he has evoked the most ungraspable human

destinies and uncovered the life-world of the occupation”.

We would like to honour the Finnish artist Tarja Tuu-

panen with the 2014 Nobel Jewellery Prize in literature.

Tuupanen is a master of stones. Out of agate, granite, mar-

ble and quartz she brings out shapes that reveals the raw

soul of the stone and tells its history.

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We give the Nobel Jewellery Prize 2014 in economy to

Current Obsession. This magazine spread the rich and won-

derful world of contemporary jewellery to places where it

has not been seen before, breaking up the monopoly of

the CJ-sphere.

PEACEThe Nobel Peace Prize was given to Malala Yousafzai

and Kailash Satyarthi for their brave and important work

against oppression of children and for young people’s right

to education.

Education leads to understanding and knowledge. It

makes it possible for more people to take part in a demo-

cratic discussion and it provides tools to prevent conflicts.

We will award the Nobel Jewellery Peace Prize 2014 to

Mah Rana for the project Meanings and Attachments

which offers a platform for discussions about jewellery

as a part of our lives. A platform where people can par-

ticipate regardless age, sex, cultural background or “CJ-

experience”.

Current OBSESSION #3 The Fake Issue. Cover image by Lonneke van der Palen

We would like TO THANK ALL OF YOU JEWELLERY

PRIZE WINNERS FOR YOUR INSPIRING WORK.

You definitely deserve a banquette and a fat prize check – we hope that day

soon will come!

JENNY, 2006. “The meaning of the necklace is love, that I hold the power to find love.“ Photo by Mah RANA

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Precious – Stockholm Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair

has grown to become the largest in the industry.

Producers and buyers from all Nordic countries will

gather 4–6 September this year to make contacts and do

business. The interest from the Baltic countries has grown

stronger. Therefore, the Precious Fair Catalogue will also

be distributed in Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania in addition

to the Nordic countries.

– It’s very satisfying to see the increasing interest from

the Baltic countries, says Åsa Axelson, Project Manager for

Precious. They have a long tradition of jewellery design

and manufacturing and we are very curious about our

eastern neighbours.

Great tips for your visit at Precious – Stockholm Nordic

Watch & Jewellery Fair:

• Browse the exhibitor list before arriving the fair

• Book meetings with the exhibitors you want meet

• Maximize your mingling opportunities by book-

ing tickets for the Precious Gala Dinner, the big

Saturday night party at Grand Hôtel

• Talk to as many people as you can at the fair. Both

exhibitors and visitors can turn out to be valuable

contacts

• Stay an extra day in Stockholm and experience the

beauty and sights of the city: the ABBA museum,

the Old Town, and Fotografiska – an exhibition hall

by the water for contemporary photography

Precious Fair Catalogue to the Baltic countriesPress Release by PRECIOUS Press Office

KINGDOM OF SWEDEN

EU, Hallmarking ConventionCapital StockholmOfficial language SwedishCurrency Swedish krona (SEK); 1 EUR – 9.16 SEKTime zone CET (UTC+1) CEST (UTC+2) Summer (DST)Area – 449 964 km2

Population (2013) 9 658 301 Government Constitutional monarchy,Unitary parliamentary representative democracyMonarch King Carl XVI GustafPrime Minister Stefan LofvenGDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 30 502.96 EUREthnic groups 80% Swedish, 20 % others Largest cities Stockholm 1 253 309, Goteborg 515 252, Malmoe 261 548

SWEDEN

Denmark

Dates: 4–6 September, 2015

Exhibition: Precious – Stockholm Nordic Watch &

Jewellery Fair

Contact: Åsa Axelson, Project Manager,

phone: +46 73 925 66 48,

email: [email protected]

Web: www.preciousfair.se/en

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Report by FINNISH JEWELLERY ART ASSOCIATION

KORU5KORU5 is a international contemporary jewellery trien-

nal organized in Finland now for the fifth time. The event

consists of ewellery art exhibitions, three workshops and

a two day seminar. The main purpose is to present widely

international contemporary jewellery and bring together

the artists, lecturers, researchers and people with interest

in contemporary jewellery to take part in exhibition, semi-

nar and workshops. The start of the event will take place

in Imatra, Finland autumn 2015.

EXHIBITIONThe first KORU5 exhibition opens in Imatra Art Muse-

um on August 2015. The exhibition will tour to Vaasa Art

Hall in the end of the year 2015 and after that the exhibi-

tion will travel to Kuopio Art Museum in 2016. There are

51 artists from 21 country selected to participate KORU5

exhibition. The selection for the exhibition was made

anonymously by three-member jury. Members of the jury

are jewellery artist Helena Lehtinen, Art, Design & Con-

temporary Craft – Curator & Consultant Katarina Siltavuori

and Doctor of Fine Arts, researcher and visual artist Jyrki

Siukonen.

WORKSHOPSThree workshops for professional artists and students of

jewellery art and related fields will take place at Saimaa Uni-

versity of Applied Sciences, Imatra Finland between 4th and

6th of august 2015. Workshop leaders are Terhi Tolvanen

(FI/FR), Monika Brugger (FR), Edgar Mosa (PT/USA). On-line

registration for the workshops opens soon at www.koru5.fi

SEMINARKORU5 seminar is open for the public and it will be

placed in Saimaa University of Applied Sciences, Imatra

between 7th and 8th of august 2015. Two day seminar will

KORU5 – INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY EVENT IN FINLAND AUTUMN 2015

Workshop results from KORU4 -event

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include lectures from the workshops leaders and selected

artists of KORU5 exhibition. There will be some research

based and philosophical discourse too. The discussion in

seminar will be about making and thinking of jewellery art

in a broad sense. Information about speakers and registra-

tion for the seminar will be announced at KORU5 webpage.

JEWELLERY ART ASSOCIATIONKORU5 event is organized by Finnish Jewellery Art

Association. The jewellery art association was founded in

Lappeenranta in 2005. The association aims to promote

contemporary jewellery in Finland and to improve its rec-

ognition as an art and design form. Another goal of the

association is to increase awareness about Finnish jewel-

lery internationally. As means towards those ends, the

association organizes exhibitions, presentations and dis-

cussion panels, and distributes information about events.

At the same time with KORU5 event in 2015 Finnish Jewel-

lery Art Association celebrates its ten year existence.

Cameo -workshop from KORU2

Exhibition view from Imatra art museum during KORU3

Phot

o by

Julia

MA

NSI

KK

A

For more information visit › www.koru5.fi

REPUBLIC OF FINLAND

EU, Hallmarking ConventionCapital HelsinkiOfficial language(s) Finnish, SwedishCurrency Euro (EUR)Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3)Area – 338 424 km2 Population (2013) 5 439 407Government Parliamentary republicPresident Sauli Niinisto Prime minister Alexander Stubb GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 33 206 EUREthnic groups

93.4% Finn6.6% others

Largest citiesHelsinki 596 233Espoo 252 730Tampere 215 315

FINLAND

Estonia

EXHIBITIONS7.8–12.9.2015 Imatra Art Museum, Finland

3.10–29.11.2015 Vaasa Art Hall, Finland

2016 Kuopio Art Museum, Finland

WORKSHOPS 4.–6.8.2015 Faculty of Fine Arts, Saimaa University

of Applied Sciences, Imatra, Finland

Edgar MOSA: Creative Patriotisms

Monika BRUGGER: Heimat

Terhi TOLVANEN: Stone Rocks

Registration for the workshops opens soon at

www.koru5.fi

SEMINAR7.–8.8.2015 Saimaa University of Applied Sciences,

the auditorium of Linnala campus in Imatra, Finland

Registration for the seminar opens soon at

www.koru5.fi

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48


Interview by Aaron PATRICK DECKER

Tallinn, Estonia, where I had the pleasure of

interviewing the renowned Estonian jeweler Kadri

Mälk. As the head of the metals department

in the Estonian Academy of Arts, she shines a spotlight

on younger Estonian jewelers. She has given rise to a

generation whose work is strong, individual, and definitely

Estonian. Mälk’s work is dark, poetic, and wholly of her

own voice. Utilizing such traditional jewelry materials as

gold, silver, gemstones, and jet, she creates a recipe whose

melancholy fragrances permeate through all her work.

Aaron Patrick Decker: How did you come to

jewelry?

Kadri Mälk: Initially I studied painting for four years

and really enjoyed it. Before that, I worked in a publishing

house. After studying painting, I suddenly felt that maybe

it wasn’t for me, maybe I needed something more intimate.

After that I went to the Academy to study jewelry. I was

either 28 or 29 when I graduated. I felt somehow that I was

late, an autumn flower. I remained a freelance artist and

was on my own for about nine years; meanwhile I was invit-

ed to teach. Initially it was just a small workload, like once

a week. I enjoyed staying in my atelier and working on my

own schedule and freedom. I liked it so much, no due dates

and a kind of wild life, a lifestyle I still really appreciate.

After graduation I began some studies in stonework.

First in St. Petersburg in a stone-cutting factory, a huge

factory that received quite high-quality raw materials from

Siberia. Then I studied gemology in Finland at the Lahti

Design Institute for two years. I was offered to prolong

my studies in London in 1993–94 and receive the highest

degree one could get in gemological studies. During that

time in Estonia, there was no one in the field of gemology.

It’s a small field in general, but in Estonia, no one had this

sort of certification. But then my professor, Kuldkepp, fell

ill and couldn’t return to the department anymore. Until

this point I had worked alone. Leading a department is not

just about being an ideological leader, there are other con-

cerns about finances, and finding a team that works. You

have to find people who fit together. I had no experience

in this work so I was very afraid of the proposal to take the

department. And especially since I was offered the gemo-

logical certification, which was seductive.

Simultaneously, I got a chance to work in Germany. I

was young, bold, and at that time ready to jump. I applied

to Bernd Munsteiner’s studio. He rejected me at first, say-

ing he had too much work to also teach an apprentice.

Somehow he changed his mind and decided to bring me

in. They were intrigued by Estonia, the wild northern

forest, so they said okay. He was concerned about my age

and the time allotted; to learn stone cutting and faceting

requires a large amount of time. I went in there not being

able to speak German, and they had a certain dialect. I

had some stone-cutting experience from St. Petersburg,

but not at the level at which his workshop operated. It was

very generous of him to take me.

We began at 7 a.m. and the first break was at 10:30

for some coffee. It was very tight and regimented. Fun-

nily, during lunch they turned off the power in the shop; I

KADRI MÄLKLove Me Or Leave Me Or Let Me Be Lonely

Tallinn, Estonia, where I had the pleasure of interviewing the renowned

Estonian jeweler Kadri MÄLK. As the head of the metals department

in the Estonian Academy of Arts, she shines a spotlight on younger

Estonian jewelers. She has given rise to a generation whose work

is strong, individual, and definitely Estonian. Mälk’s work is dark,

poetic, and wholly of her own voice. Utilizing such traditional jewelry

materials as gold, silver, gemstones, and jet, she creates a recipe whose

melancholy fragrances permeate through all her work.

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thought I could work more during this time, but it was not

allowed. He didn’t believe in the beginning that I could

learn facet cutting, but at the end he was happy with

where I got. I remember having a notebook and just try-

ing to write down everything during lunchtime. I wouldn’t

eat. I’d just write what the workers were saying. The old

knowledge. It was my passion, stones.

Do you think becoming a professor so early

shaped you as an artist and continues to shape you?

Kadri Mälk: I was a baby professor. I was elected

when I was 37. I had already been a renowned artist for

some time, but as an educator, administrator, or team

member, I had no experience. Looking back, I realize now

the trust from admin and colleagues when I took over the

department. My creative past supported me and proved

to them I could survive in the school. Just recently some-

body outside of the academy, and artists, came to me and

said, “Now, Kadri, I realize you have done it well…” In the

beginning, others were hesitant because I was seemingly

unsuitable for the job. The highest hesitations came from

me. I was unsure if I could rise to the occasion. And when

the women came, 15 years later, it was some confirmation.

I just liked to make my pieces. And it’s so funny, I still

go about my work in a similar way. Nowadays students

are much more oriented by a schedule and thinking about

making work for exhibition. Deadlines. My satisfaction

came from my pieces, from the process. I liked how they

came to me, how they happened. When I was in school,

learning about the art field was not included. The profes-

sor tried to keep this off us, all these associations, how this

works, etc. I remember asking her what happens when I

graduate. She didn’t tell me anything about the real life of

artists. It was all about the work. It was a conscious deci-

sion to keep the art world away from us.

Do you think your work changed during this pe-

riod?

Kadri Mälk: No, not because of the Academy. The

majority of my time went into the Academy, but this didn’t

To share the UNSHARABLE

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50


affect my work. In the first years, we gave assignments to

students in the form of certain themes. Later on, especially

at the MA level, where the study is more conceptual, they

must meet their choices themselves to reinforce their

spiritual identities.

Someone asked me, “What do you like best about

teaching?” I feel lucky that I have the possibility to notice

and follow how personalities develop and begin to blos-

som; how new talented personalities emerge in a creative

surrounding; and how they act and react. And how pas-

sionate they may be in their work! It’s the achievement of

every member of our staff.

Not much changed about me, either. Of course I had to

modify my talking towards topics, concentrate, and learn

to convey or see the methods that worked best, but at the

core I didn’t change. It’s very different to be just a teacher

rather than the department leader. You are responsible for

all that happens. The biggest difference is that the academy

and the students are number one, followed by your work

and your family. The academy and the students are number

one. They can call me at any time if they need. I feel better

in this. They know that they can come, they are not lost.

What are your impressions of younger jewelers

now coming into the field, at large and in Estonia?

Kadri Mälk: (long pause) It is very hard to generalize,

even here the local scene is quite diverse. You can see more

design-oriented work, more personal work. I try to encour-

age these people who are afraid of having somehow veiled,

personal, or exceptional ways of expressing. If they com-

pare themselves to what is happening in different places

with people their age, they begin unconsciously to bring

other aesthetics into their own work. I want to encourage

people who are different, who are slightly insecure.

Francis Bacon said, if you are going to decide to be an

artist, you have got to decide that you are not going to be

afraid to make a fool of yourself. Making art is so simple-all

you have to do is to wait quietly, staring at a blank wall until

the drops of blood appear on your forehead. Be aware that

criticism always comes along with creative work. If you can’t

handle it, you have to quit.

How frequently and easily success

transforms into depression! You can

avoid it by leaving some loose threads

in your work, some unresolved part that

carries you forward in your new work.

What you need to know in your next

piece is silently present in your last. You

can find it while looking in patience. It’s

like a seed crystal for your next destination. I am not really

analytical like most. I am interested mostly in my uncon-

scious choices, what I like and what triggers me.

If someone were to ask about your work, how

would you describe it to them?

Kadri Mälk: Look at the originals. You should look at

the original pieces and see for yourself.

Do you think that is an important idea, to see

things in person?

Kadri Mälk: Yes. We are so much in the age of repro-

duction. We see the screen or the page with the picture.

We don’t look at the original anymore, we don’t feel the

tactility of the pieces or taste the iron. It is very harmful to

humankind to go about it in this manner. Go to the origi-

nals. Otherwise it is so meta-meta, you don’t feel, you don’t

know the scale, the details, or the material from the copies.

What are some of the things that inspire you?

Kadri Mälk: I don’t know what inspiration is exactly.

Sometimes things are more intense and sometimes less

intense. Sometimes I feel that I can capture things, forms,

colors, something in the air, and sometimes I feel like sand

is running through my fingers. Consciously I cannot, but it

comes more from my subconscious. There’s some differ-

entiation between mental and physical subconscious. One

is staying here (Mälk points to her head) and one is here

(she points to her stomach), the first is mental and then the

second is more gut, subconscious. The feelings are very

different. Or maybe the frequencies are different. I like life

in all its expressions, that’s my source.

In talking about those two polar ways-analytical

and emotional-in your work, do you bring them to-

gether, is there one that’s more important to you?

Kadri Mälk: Usually it’s subconscious, these decisions

you make. They are made before they are at your conscious

level. You made the decisions in a big fog. Just as in crystal-

lization, they come into being. And when they are there, it

is your choice to call them either consciously made or born

out of the sky.

Looking at your work, there is a quality of instanta-

neous moment; going deeper, you find

more and more. The work is quite strik-

ing and emotionally charged. Seems

very palpable, like it has a heartbeat.

There is also a melancholy quality to

many of your pieces. Is that a conscious

decision or a more subconscious one?

Kadri Mälk: A tiger cannot avoid his

stripes! (She laughs.)

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That’s a great analogy.

Kadri Mälk: I am very shy describing my

work. I am afraid I cannot reach the truth

through verbalization.

There is this quality of Estonian jewel-

ers, not a reluctance, but an ability to keep

the integrity of the work. It’s hard to describe the

work prescriptively in its conceptual and formal func-

tions, often it acts like poetry, it speaks with power

but is not completely resolute. What is your opinion

of this attitude?

Kadri Mälk: When I think of my jewelry, it’s easier

to describe it. “It’s blue, violet, black, and purple. There

is fog, there are shades of magenta.” You can be precise

without being clear. And unclear may also be precise. It’s

very much an oxymoron.

Being precise but unclear, can you talk more

about this notion?

Kadri Mälk: It’s really a sort of hologram, like a puz-

zle. As a notion and phenomenon, I think it’s possible.

It is an interesting facet of Estonian jewelry. Sort

of irresolute.

Kadri Mälk: Yeah, it’s in a stage of becoming. Being

on the way.

Yeah, it’s not negative, its more open.

Kadri Mälk: Yes, an ambivalence.

Is there something that you want people to get

from your work?

Kadri Mälk: To share the unsharable. What often hap-

pens is that the viewer approaches in a superficial way,

which is natural. On the foreground they see materials,

especially if there are unusual materials.

I’ve used a lot of moleskin in my work and it’s taken a

kind of attraction or peculiarity in my work. I don’t feel a

need to explain the choices I’ve made. How it came to me,

it was just an incident. Or a happy accident.

When all my stuff was stolen from my atelier, I found a

coat of my grandmother’s from the war, made out of mole-

skin. I took it apart, slices of extremely thin, like silk, soft silk

paper like. Then I saw these pieces. The tenderness at first,

the sensuality of the material, and that the fur grew in only

one direction. It was so thin, the fur. It had such a strong

character, though. I started to work with this, used it a lot,

the coat is now gone into all the pieces. I also think the ani-

mal is present in the work. The mole, he’s blind, he doesn’t

have sight but has extreme animal spirit. All this orientation

in time and space. I studied how they moved, their lives, did

more research. How they were trapped and caught. This

animalism was powerful and important for me

in these works. But you aren’t going to retell

the story. If you put it into a story, it’s banal.

Can you talk more about the jet in

your work?

Kadri Mälk: When I carve it, like timber or

wood, it has nerves like a human body. The stones have struc-

ture, they direct you. They tell you where to go. You should

go there and you shouldn’t make the wrong decision. There is

a negotiation with the stone when I cut it. Jet is mute, silen-

cium. Only a big dust is coming. Your lungs are filled with

jet powder. Like stones are directing you in advance, there

are inclusions, by heat they will crack more. Jet is complete-

ly mute. This is what fascinates me. It’s not much used in

jewelry anymore. I lack the habit and custom and will to

interpret my works after they have been completed. The

work either tells you something or it doesn’t. Once you

have completed it, then keep quiet. The work must know

whether it radiates or not. The piece of jewelry in your

mind, in your imagination, is always correct and beautiful.

Resistance starts when you try to convert it into material.

Oh, la la! Materials are like elementary particles—charged,

heavily charged sometimes, but indifferent. They don’t tell

you much, you have to tell them the truth.

You have staged events and produced a number

of books-JUST MUST, Castle in the Air, etc.-about

Estonian jewelry and jewelers. You have made the

work coming from the Academy available to a much

larger audience. Give us your thoughts about pub-

lishing these books and what your intentions were

at the time you did them.

Kadri Mälk: Firstly, I love books. I love their smell and

the shade of the voice when you turn the page and then

unexpectedly see a new image… It’s both emotional and

intellectual. Since 1989 I have published twenty-some-

thing publications, some of them out-of-print already. The

first ones were really ugly ducklings, black-and-white …

I’ve strived always to tell something different with them,

it has been my passion. Indeed, they have been acting as

ambassadors of Estonian jewelry in the world, although it

was not intended. So many students coming from abroad

have said the pull came from the books. Strange! Usually

nowadays the urge comes from the Internet.

To make an impression abroad is not as important as to

make an impression in your own soul.

Thank you.

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The library legislation on jewellery of some Europe-

an Union (EU) states (including Estonia) does not

offer any valuable protection to jewellery custom-

er. Within the voluntary Hallmarking system, there are no

guarantees of investment, quality and health safety. The

customer is responsible for his/her own health. Unfortu-

nately awareness about non safety of jewellery comes to

the customer after his/her health has been damaged.

There are visible severe allergic reactions on skin in

peoples, who are sensitive to nickel. With cadmium, any

immediate visible harm have not been observed, because

cadmium causes severe health effects if absorbed into the

body at high levels and stays in the body for a long time.

The European Nickel Directive has been enforced

throughout the EU since 2000. In 2011 the EU has extend-

ed the restrictions on cadmium content in jewellery and,

in 2013, restriction for lead and its compounds has been

enforced.

In Estonia, there is not manufacturing of jewellery in

large scale, so mostly imported products are on the mar-

ket. Partly due to competition for low cost, some suppliers

import jewellery from Far East countries and India, where

toxic metals are still being used in jewellery manufactur-

ing for technical reasons. It is important that suppliers of

jewellery understand the potential risks and take all rea-

sonable steps to ensure that their products are ‘safe’ for

people (customers) health.

In the AS Metrosert laboratory of Assay Office of Esto-

nia it is possible to check the content of toxic metals by

X-ray analysis (XRF) as nondestructive initial screening test

before a more accurate (but destructive) analysis by AAS

method. The nickel release screen test and full release test

according to standard EN 1811:2011 can be conducted,

too. Unfortunately Estonian jewellery suppliers or retailers

are not ready to incur additional costs for this testing.

Because of voluntary hallmarking system in Estonia,

less than 10 % of jewellery market is submitted by suppli-

ers for hallmarking to Assay Office.

Within this amount, our experts during the testing

detect the followings:

THE SAFETY OF JEWELLERY is the customers concern ...Report by METROSERT LTD, Assay Office Department

The experts of Metrosert LTD Assay Office Department (from left to right): Gene BOITSOVA, Jelena MUHHAMEDJANOVA and Teele KANTS

• On some silver items nickel is present as finishing

or/and inter medium layer before gold finishing.

• In case of low coast silver jewellery instead of gold

copper alloys with high nickel content are used for

finishing. The nickel release from such coatings is

ten times higher than required limits.

• The white gold alloy with high content of nickel

is used for jewellery items inserted into pierced

parts of the body. In the case if these items are not

finished with rhodium, nickel release from alloy

commonly is not compliant with restrictions. It

should be noticed, that such items are still supplied

from EU countries and Turkey, too.

• The presence of cadmium in content (2–10) % by

weight of metal in silver jewellery (including child ´s

jewellery) is very common for silver items from Far

East countries and India.

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In additional, a lot of jewellery sets with composite

lead glass corundum or lead glass fracture filled rubies and

sapphires can be found in Estonian market. At the best,

retailers offer them as treated gems (without any indica-

tion of the treatment method). At present there is no regu-

lation on gems in Estonia.

The restrictions for toxic metals are not completely

defined in the Estonian valid legislation on jewellery.

According to valid Precious Metal Articles Act there is only

one restriction for nickel as jewellery coating: these items

are not permitted in our market. Especially within the vol-

untary Hallmarking system, preferring to buy Hallmarked

jewellery the customer think by mistake, that item meets

all requirements (incl. fineness standard and health safety).

However, a Control mark on an article is not a proof itself

for jewellery safety for health of its customer.

Jewellery market supervision is exercised by the Cus-

tomer Protection Board in Estonia. During the revisions in

the jewellery stores it is possible only to check the presence

of the compulsory marks on jewellery items. To test an

alloy for precious metal content (standard of fineness) or

for presence of toxic metals, jewellery item must be select-

ed for expertise. Within the last two years (2013–2014)

only 21 items were selected for expertise, from these only

two items were in compliance with the requirements of

valid legislation.

Today we are looking forward to revise legislation on

jewellery according to REACH regulation in Estonia.

REPUBLIC OF ESTONIA

EU, NATOCapital TallinnOfficial language EstonianCurrency Euro (EUR)Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3)Area – 45 227 km2

Population (2014) 1 312 300 Government Parliamentary republicPresident Toomas Hendrik IlvesPrime Minister Taavi RoivasGDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 14 200 EUREthnic groups (2011) 68.7 % Estonians, 31.3 % othersLargest cities Tallinn 394 024 Tartu 101 092

Narva 66 980 Lithuania

Latvia

ESTONIA

Customers raise concerns ABOUT TOXIC METALS

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Inconnection with Latvia holding the Presidency

of the Council of the European Union in the first

half of 2015, Art gallery Putti proudly presents

the exhibition of Latvian contemporary jewellery artists

”Amber – like you`ve never seen before” which will be

on display in the Goldsmiths` Centre in London, United

Kingdom from May 25, 2015 until July 5th, 2015.

Exhibition participants are Latvian contemporary jew-

ellery artists Andris Lauders, Guntis Lauders, Jānis Vilks,

Māris Auniņš, Māris Šustiņš and Valdis Brože.

Conversations with amber – this is what

the exhibition is all about. In some way jewel-

lery artist`s dialog with amber is a battle of two

giants, where outstanding sense of the mate-

rial and intellectual investment is needed. It is

still upon discussion how much amber should

be intervened by changing it, for it not to be destroyed.

Every amber piece is unique in its colour, form and tex-

ture – therefore it is very important to preserve its natural

beauty by adjusting the design of the jewellery piece to the

amber not adjusting the amber to the design.

The scenography elements in the exhibition are done by

internationally acclaimed fashion brand “MAREUNROL̀ S”

(Mārīte Mastiņa and Rolands Pēterkops), taking in mind

the ancient nature of the amber and its historical mean-

AMBER: Like You've Never Seen Before

Press Release by PUTTI ART GALLERY

Andris LAUDERS

Necklace: Thing That Never End – The Sun Amber, sterling silver, 18 kt gold, leather

Guntis LAUDERS

Brooches: Orchestra Amber, sterling silver, mammoth bone, coconut shell, smoky topaz, sapphires

54


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Māris ŠUSTIŅŠ

Brooch: Adornment Needle-pin Amber, silver niello, gilding, garnet

ing. They combined it with the resident of our planet since

before Christianity, the neighbour of dinosaurs – the ant.

In the exhibition one can see how the amber road crosses

the roads of ants, which has actually happened – the evi-

dence is seen in the amber pieces which are found with

encapsulated ants. Amber has been through a lot and it is

a powerful conversation companion, who asks for a part-

ner of the same intelligence – the jewellery artist, the jew-

ellery piece wearer and also the viewing audience.

In this exhibition we come from a conversation about

the amber to a conversation about ourselves in 21st cen-

tury and about marks that we will leave for the upcoming

generations. The cultural experience of the amber and its

existence in the global space is as much as inseparable and

interrelated as the mark that the Universe has left in each

amber piece.

Guntis LAUDERS

Brooch: Orchestra Amber, sterling silver, mammoth bone, coconut shell, smoky topaz, sapphires

Māris AUNIŅŠ

Brooch: Magic Structures

Sterling silver, amber

REPUBLIC OF LATVIA

EU, NATO, Hallmarking ConventionCapital RigaOfficial language LatvianCurrency Euro (EUR)Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3)Area – 64 589 km2

Population (2014) 2 146 800 Government Parliamentary republicPresident Andris BerziņsPrime Minister Laimdota StraujumaGDP (PPP) Per capita (2014) 18 406 EUREthnic groups (2011)

62.1% Latvians, 37.9 % others Largest cities

Riga 713 016Daugavpils 104 857Liepaja 84 747 Lithuania

LATVIA

Belarus

Estonia

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It is the 12th year of international Baltic jewellery

exhibition “Amber Trip”, this time organised in Vil-

nius. Tell us more about this exhibition.

Although this sole biggest international jewellery exhi-

bition in the Baltic States is held for the 12th time, we,

“Amber Trip” organisers, approach each exhibition as if

it was its first time and make full effort throughout the

whole year.

The year that passes between “Amber Trip” exhibitions

brings serious changes to the jewellery and amber markets.

These changes dictate what we should do. I emphasise

that we, as the organisers of this exhibition, have not and

will not claim a right to form future trends. “Amber Trip”

always observes what the present situation dictates, what

our participants and buyers want, and we always take into

consideration changes taking place in the market and the

opinions that our participants express. Hence, what we cre-

ate and find in the exhibition is a joint project made possible

by all jewellery industry representatives. I personally thank

everyone for their contribution to organising “Amber Trip”.

What is different about “Amber Trip” 2015?

This year’s “Amber Trip” exhibition has finally grown,

area-wise, to the size it was before the financial crisis

(2009), when our maximum area had been reached. This

accomplishment brings us great joy since an increase in

exhibition area shows the Baltic jewellery market has been

recovering.

The exhibition will receive approximately 150 attend-

ees from Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia, Poland, Turkey, Italy,

the Czech Republic, Russia, Germany and Georgia, and

will have more attendees than before. We get VIP buyers

coming from all around the world, for instance, the US,

Japan or a faraway corner of the Russian Federation – the

Kamchatka peninsula. Around 40 % of “Amber Trip” exhi-

bition area is taken by jewellery, and the remaining 60 %

by amber. We tend to believe that the purchasing power

for jewellery items in the Baltic region has increased.

As it happens every year, the exhibition will present the

newest technology, modern equipment. The participants

will be able to see the most recent items of professional jew-

ellers, to buy some exclusive one-of-a-kind artefacts. They

will also have an exclusive opportunity to explore Perkūnas’s

stone. It is the biggest amber stone – it weighs 3,820 grams

– ever to be taken from the Baltic Sea in Lithuania. This

unique amber stone, all covered in sea shells and battered

by waves, has remained in one piece and has travelled the

PARTICIPANTS’ EXPECTATIONS FOR THE MARKET AT “AMBER TRIP” EXHIBITIONS Virginija ZYGIENE’S interview with Giedrius GUNTORIUS

This year, the biggest international jewellery exhibition in the Baltic States, “Amber Trip 2015”,

can boast about both the high number of attendees and an expanded exhibition area. Giedrius

GUNTORIUS, the director of “Amber Trip”, the company that organises the exhibition, shares his

thoughts on the event and trends in jewellery and amber markets.

Giedrius GUNTORIUS, the director of “Amber Trip”

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world for a while, including places like Kuwait. Nowadays,

this stone is officially recognised as the biggest amber stone

in Lithuania, and is bigger than the famous Sun Stone that

can be seen at the Palanga Amber Museum.

Amber shop “Carskoje Selo” from Saint Petersburg

will present 26 copies of different collections: fragments

of the Amber Chamber, scientific reconstructions of lost

Berlin and Konigsberg‘s collections, religious icons made

of amber, and artefacts of amber masters.

During the exhibition period, an international art com-

petition, “Dialogue of Oppositions”, will take place, where

jewellers from Lithuania and abroad will present their works.

What are the current trends in the market of jew-

ellery and amber?

I must note first that, for the past two years, the

“Amber Trip” exhibition and its participants were greatly

helped by the amber stone market in China, since it would

“suck in” all that representatives of amber industry would

produce. The exhibition was well attended by buyers from

China and other Asia countries, which truly delighted us.

There have been, however, some changes in the market

and already at “Amber Trip” of 2014 discussions sparked

over the lack of amber that was felt after the Kaliningrad

Amber Combine stopped its amber stock export. And yet,

after amber mining was begun in Poland and Ukraine, the

amber deficit issue was completely solved and no company

had to close because of this situation.

Therefore, we see different trends in the market. Once

the problems with amber stock acquisition were resolved,

buyers from Asia slowed down their purchases, and the

price of amber has dropped by 30 % as compared to its

price during the exhibition last year. At the same time,

there is a growing trend for Arab states to show interest

in amber, it is becoming more interesting in the US and

Europe.

This is why “Amber Trip” is so important to its exhibi-

tors: it will reveal the market trends of 2015. The expecta-

tions of the exhibitors of our exhibition will first travel to

“Amberif” exhibition in Poland, and later to other coun-

tries.

“AMBER TRIP” is important to its exhibitors: IT WILL REVEAL THE MARKET TRENDS OF 2015

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D evyni Gintarai, joint-stock company, and 42 other Lithuanian jewellery

business enterprises have received the European Regional Development Fund support.

Participation in the 12th International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip 2015” was

compensated some costs. A smaller group of 6 companies (Amber Trip, Amber Tree,

Jonas Damzen’s personal enterprise, Ambero, Romualda Venskel and Ambersmile) are

also participating in Amberif on March 25–28. We invite you to visit their stands.

Public institution Enterprise Lithuania (Versli Lietuva) under the Ministry of Economy

of the Republic of Lithuania provided partial funding to the companies participating in

the international shows, where export potential of the company groups (hereinafter IGEI)

as well as expansion of business relations is going to be presented.

The group of Lithuanian jewellery companies took advantage of this opportunity. In the

12th International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip”, it is going to present the production

of Lithuanian amber and jewellery producers to its potential clients and partners.

The project aims at encouraging Lithuanian amber jewellery companies to search

more actively for foreign partners. It stimulates raising international awareness of

Lithuanian amber and jewellery producers by using a group initiative as well as

participating in international events in Lithuania and abroad.

The European Regional Development Fund allocated funds to cover some of the total

implementation costs for the project 12th International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip

2015” of Devyni gintarai, company.

The following companies participate in the project together with company Devyni

gintarai: RMD Linija, Sidabrine Kameja, Astijus Jasaitis’s amber company Napoleonas,

A. Kleismantas’s individual enterprise DU SAFYRAI, Saniston Baltic, Silver Amber, Amber

Tree, individual enterprise Misara, Natalia Lenko, Jonas Damzen’s personal enterprise,

Audrius Lukauskas, Aukso Centras, Alfredas Daulius’s individual enterprise, Martynas

Kaubrys, Darius Tamasauskas, Algirdas Marcius, Ambermozaika, Dainius Gadliauskas,

Marius Duda, R. Benetis’s enterprise Lasas, Vytautas Jukna, Edita Sarkuvienė,

E. Dunauskas’s enterprise Pajurio Krantas, R. Balsaitis’s amber studio, D. Milius’s economic

commercial enterprise, Art Vetus, A. Jukna’s studija A+L, Ambero, Filum, A. Petkevicius’s

trading company, Simona Statneckyte, Angel Amber, Sergiejus Popovas, Eridana

Pinikienė, Jieda, Aleksandras Rus, Ambersmile, Olga ir Olga, Amberlita, Amberhome,

Romualda Venskel, Roman Gridz, Lina Amber.

IGEI’s encouragement is one of the activities of the project titled “Opportunities

for Business Creation and Expansion” of Public institution Enterprise Lithuania

(Versli Lietuva), intended to be funded by European Regional Development Fund.

PROMOTION OF LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Report by Virginija ZYGIENE

SCIENCE ECONOMY COHESIO N EUROPEAN UNION

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UAB DEVYNI GINTARAIDEBRECENO 70–10KLAIPEDA LT-94153

LITHUANIA

owner EDVARDAS ZUMBRICKASTEL. +370 39838245FAX +370 46360652

www.amber999.com

UAB “ART VETUS”Poilsio str. 7, LT-93200, Klaipeda, Lithuania

Amber-BernsteinMob. [email protected]

The amounts of mined

amber

Director of the Lithuanian

Geological Survey Jonas SATKUNAS

Prospecting and extraction works of amber deposits may begin later this year in Lithuania, in the

Curonian Lagoon near Juodkrantė. Director of the Lithuanian Geological Survey Jonas Satkunas

speaks about the need to mine amber, available amber resources in Lithuania and possible

extraction quotas.

Why is there a need to mine amber in Lithuania?

Amber business representatives in Lithuania are no

longer provided with amber due to an embargo of amber

supply from Kaliningrad. However, business companies are

showing interest in the prospecting and mining of amber

deposits: we have received applications from 6 companies

in mid-February this year. According to the law on Sub-

strata, if there are applications under which business rep-

resentatives aim to prospect and extract amber resources,

the Lithuanian Geological Survey must organize a tender.

AMBER WILL BE MINED IN LITHUANIA

Virginija ZYGIENE’S interview with Jonas SATKUNAS

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Curonian Lagoon

Of course there could be more applications if the terms

and conditions of the tender appear attractive.

When will the tender for the prospecting and ex-

traction of amber deposits be announced? And when

will the amber mining works actually begin?

Tender regulations are approved by the Minister of

Environment. After the approval, a tender commission will

be formed which will prepare the terms and conditions of

the tender. According to the tender regulations, which are

still only a draft and have not yet been approved (the inter-

view took place in February – author's note), the Lithu-

anian Geological Survey is the organizer of the tender.

It is likely that the tender will be announced as early

as this spring, however, due to various circumstances, the

winner of the tender may be announced only in autumn.

What else needs to be done to clear the path for

the prospecting and mining of amber?

So far, the prospecting of Lithuanian amber depos-

its is not yet finished, therefore these works need to be

complete. Amber prospecting works were carried out in

1992–1994. These data are reliable, however at least 10

more boreholes need to be drilled in order to prospect all

the amber reserves.

Thus, the winner of the tender for the prospecting

and extraction of amber deposits will have to perform

prospecting at his own expense and that is an advantage,

because certain amount of amber will be obtained during

prospecting which can be put on the market and possibly

cover the costs of prospecting. And eventually, the winner

of the tender will be able to see the quality of the raw

material, i.e. amber, as he will be able to examine it further.

Of course, we will try to make sure that the mined

amber is not quickly exported from the country as raw

material, instead we want it to be exported from Lithuania

as a well-made piece of jewellery and this would be ben-

eficial to everyone. Therefore annual amber mining quotas

should be set in the terms and conditions of the tender.

After the prospecting, when available amber reserves

are approved, an environmental impact assessment will

also be carried out. We will have an answer whether

amber mining will be allowed in this location in terms of

the environment, because amber deposits are also situated

in the Curonian Spit National Park, the biosphere polygon,

in the fish migration and spawning area, as well as places

where archaeological artefacts were discovered (in the XIX

century, an article and amulet collection from the stone

age, as well as the so-called amber treasure were found

near Juodkrantė which became famous all over the world).

Thus we need to make sure that the damage to the envi-

ronment is minimized. If permission to mine amber in this

area is granted after the environmental impact assessment

is performed, the winner companies of the tender will

automatically receive a second authorization to mine it.

Amber tax rate will also have to be set, because a cer-

tain tax must be paid to the state budget for the extracted

natural resources. The current rate is about 29 Euros for a

kilogram of extracted amber.

How much amber is allowed to be mined per year?

Annual quotas have to be approved by the commission

of the tender. In my personal opinion, the annual amber

mining quota could reach no more than 30 tonnes per

year, thus, there would be enough amber in the amber

deposit of Juodkrantė for 4 or 5 years. If receiving a license

for amber mining in other areas as well, then it would be

possible to mine amber for about 10–15 years.

What are the raw amber resources in Lithuania?

According to the data of prospecting works carried out

in 1994–1995 near Juodkrantė, there is 112 tons of amber

at the bottom of the Curonian Lagoon. However, after

a detailed prospect, this number may slightly decrease.

There are several other prognostic areas nearby there-

fore amber reserves can reach a total amount of about

230 tons. However, it should be noted that amber can be

found across the whole Curonian Lagoon.

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Palvininkai amber quarry in Kaliningrad Region (Russian: Yantarnoe)

What is the quality of amber in the available de-

posits?

The amber is fine in the deposit of Juodkrantė. It is

mostly up to 20 mm in diameter, but there is also 10% of

amber in this deposit whose fraction is larger than 40 mm

in diameter.

There are a lot of discussions in society on wheth-

er it is necessary to mine amber in Lithuania.

Lithuanian Geological Survey will seek to ensure that

the mined amber provides many benefits to the society.

Today it is said that Lithuania is the country of amber, but

we currently do not extract amber – we mined it only dur-

ing historical times, when two natural persons established

a company in Klaipėda called "Stantien&Becker". This

company had the right to not only deepen the fairway of

the Curonian Lagoon, but also to extract amber across the

whole Eastern Prussia. Amber was extensively mined near

Juodkrantė for 28 years.

Currently there are ongoing public discussions and

public opinion on the extraction of amber will become

clear after the environmental impact assessment. There will

surely be resistance from the society, as part of the society

thinks that Lithuania will not be the country of amber after

amber is extracted. However, keeping amber in its depos-

its is not the best solution. Amber is not very resistant to

weathering processes as it is affected by oxidation and

other natural processes. We should also not forget that

dredging works may be carried out in the equatoria of the

Curonian Lagoon in which case we would automatically

lose amber. On the other hand, residents of the Curonian

Spit have already noticed illegal production.

HISTORY OF AMBER MINING IN LITHUANIA• Constant amber mining works began on 1 May 1862.

The company was established in the northern part of

Juodkrantė, which is now known as Amber Bay.

• An amber miners' village was established on the cost of

the Bay, also called the "digger colony" or "California"

with a few small buildings for workers. 500–600 people

were mining amber in three shifts until the freezing of

the Lagoon.

• Every day after work, workers were inspected for stolen

amber. Theft of amber could have resulted in the loss of

a well-paid job. With the expansion of amber extraction,

the amber mining area near Juodkrantė had also con-

stantly expanded. Amber was mined from the bottom of

the Lagoon at a depth of 4–10 m, within a 2 226 m long

and 230 m wide strip.

• Amber which was mined near Juodkrantė was trans-

ported for sorting to Klaipėda and Konigsberg. The

company would export part of the amber to Great

Britain and Africa – these countries liked the bright clear

amber. Amber mined in Palvininkai have reached Cairo,

Bombay, Calcutta, Tokyo and New York.

• Large pieces of amber with a high collector's value were

particularly expensive: they were sold for 400–1 000

thalers. In 1864, only 17 000 kg of amber was obtained,

however, its extraction near Juodkrantė grew constantly

and, in 1868, a record was reached – 94 000 kg. During

1862–1890, an average of 75 000 kg of raw amber was

mined per year, and the profit reached up to 180 000

thalers.

• However, since 1880, the amounts of mined amber in

the deposit of Juodkrantė have decreased, thus, on 30

November 1890, the company "Stantien&Becker" have

terminated their contract for amber mining. Dredgers

have also stopped working since 1891. In 1899, the com-

pany was sold to the State, and, after a year, amber min-

ing in Juodkrantė has ceased completely. Thus, amber

was extensively mined near Juodkrantė for 28 years.

Lithuanian Geological Survey, 2014

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AMBER BROUGHT BACK THE MEMORIES OF CHILDHOOD

S Virginija ZYGIENE’S interview with Ruta JURKUNAITE-BRUOZIENE

Ruta JURKUNAITE-BRUOZIENE

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Rūta says that she was intrigued by the title of the

contest – 5D, and thoughts about technology and

special effects went through her head. However,

amber suddenly brought her back to her childhood years,

when sweets reminded her of bright polished stones. She

says that jewellery is still an undispelled magic to her, maybe

because she learned about it not long ago and feels like a

student who is still searching and not rushing to dig a well.

What is your relation with amber?

My relation with amber? It was established during my

childhood, and now I am trying to tame it. I have gradu-

ated costume design in Vilnius Academy of Arts (VAA). My

father studied design in the (then) Institute of Art, where

my sister also graduated painting. Thus, shape and colour-

ing have organically become an integral part of my crea-

tions. Amber reminds me of childhood. Just like brass and

copper, amber jewellery was still popular during the 8th

decade of the last millennium. So, I was born in an environ-

ment, where my dad's polishing machine or amber blanks

were an integral part of my environment, just like a chair

or a table. But amber always seemed like a fussy stone to

me, just like my beloved enamel.

It can be stated that creative ideas come during travels,

they are inspired by new people whom we meet, but most

ideas come from silence and concentration, from some-

thing that is deep within...

Your article of jewellery – ring with a spring

“Optimist" has won the Grand Prix prize in the 5D

contest held in the XI International Baltic Jewellery

Show “Amber Trip 2014”. Did you expect such a suc-

cess?

Actually, the winning was unexpected, and I think any-

one in my place would say the same. The most important

thing during contests is to feel the theme, and perfection

sometimes lies in simplicity. I was lucky in 2014, and some-

one else will be lucky in 2015. And it is truly a strong incen-

tive to create further, because your work is evaluated by

authoritative members of the commission. On the other

hand, the feeling is different when you receive apprecia-

tion from the public, after all, these days it is not easy to

grab the interest of people and reach their hearts.

The theme of the contest was 5D and this interested

me. I imagined that I would create a work of industrial

aesthetics, but all my ideas have changed when I thought

about the delicacy and cosiness of amber while episodes

from my childhood ran through my head, where I would

put nearly eaten sweets on my fingers like rings and admire

their clarity and sleekness.

Baltic Jewellry News spoke with a fashion designer, jeweller and lecturer at the Fashion Design Department of Vilnius College of Design Ruta Jurkunaite – Bruoziene, who was also the winner of the 5D contest, which took place in the International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip 2014”. Her designed ring “Optimist” won the contest's Grand Prix prize.

Winning ring “Optimist" Amber, silver

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Even today polished amber reminds me of caramel

sweets, and its colour can have different flavours in an

instant. Another important element was added to the con-

test ring – a spring. I once had a lot of those and all of

them were from disassembled pens...

The ring that was the winner of the contest is a bearer

of good mood and taste, thus the name Optimist had nat-

urally stuck to it.

You create clothing and articles of jewellery?

What are the differences and similarities when creat-

ing them?

Clothing design is inseparable from fashion trends oth-

erwise it loses its relevance. Here you have to feel the pulse

of the street, whereas in jewellery everything is slightly dif-

ferent. Of course, there are general trends, but I personally

try to avoid them. Things like fashion and trends, which

are understandable and relevant when creating clothes

and accessories, become meaningless in jewellery. For me,

jewellery is more than poetry. I try to cultivate a certain

artistic idea without thinking that it has to be popular

or highly acceptable to someone. And I am not afraid to

experiment with colours, especially when creating articles

with enamel technique.

It happened naturally that I, as a creator, was raised

by the works of painters therefore I picked up a lot of col-

ours from the surrounding environment. I have to admit

that I feel truly professional when working in the field of

costume design, and I'm happy that I also have something

that complements me, i.e. jewellery which is very close to

my body as well as my heart.

Rring “Amžiams” Silver,brass

Brooch “Kaukė” Enamel, cooper, silver, stones

Brooch “Kriauklė” Enamel, silver

Brooch “Sapnas” Enamel, cooper, silver

Necklace “G Major”. Silver plated steel, brass

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Where have you learned the art of jewellery mak-

ing?

I became interested in jewellery not so long ago. Jewel-

ler-designer Darijus Gerlikas became my first teacher. Dari-

jus is a representative of Florentine school traditions. Later,

fate brought me to jeweller Tadas Deksnys. He shared his

knowledge and experience with enamel technique and

encouraged me to work with this technique. However, I

still feel like a student in jewellery, who is still searching

and has not yet begun to dig the well.

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REPUBLIC OF LITHUANIA

EU, NATO, Hallmarking ConventionCapital VilniusOfficial language LithuanianCurrency Euro (EUR)Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3)Area – 65 200 km2

Population (2014) 2 919 306Government Parliamentary republicPresident Dalia GrybauskaitePrime Minister Algirdas ButkeviciusGDP (PPP) Per capita (2014) 12 363 EUREthnic groups (2011) 84.2% Lithuanians 15.8% others Largest cities (2013)

Vilnius 526 356Kaunas 306 888Klaipėda 158 541

LITHUANIA

Latvia

BelarusPoland

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Official Price for raw amber byKaliningrad Amber Combine

March 2015

AMBER FROM RUSSIA

Regular Amber Piece Size Price/1 kg – EUR

+4; –11.5 7.58

+11,5 faction 31.46

+14 faction 52.69

+16 faction 78.66

+23 faction 130.83

+32 faction 218.04

2,5 gr. – 5 gr. 149.08

4gr. – 25gr. 191.87

50 gr. – 100 gr. 331.1

100 gr. – 200 gr. 558.71

200 gr. – 300 gr. 651.84

300 gr. – 500 gr. 724.25

* RUB/EUR exchange rate on 9th of March, 2015

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www.balticjewellerynews.comIf you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office:Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23, [email protected]

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber2015 March

AMBER FROM RUSSIA

Regular Amber Piece Size Price / 1 kg – EUR

+5 faction 10

+6 faction 15

+8 faction 35

+11 faction 80

+14 faction 125

+16 faction 300

2,5 gr. – 5 gr. 400

5 gr. – 10 gr. 600

10 gr. – 20 gr. 1200

20 gr. – 50 gr. 2150

50 gr. – 100 gr. 3000

100 gr. – 200 gr. 3200

200 gr. – 300 gr. 3800

300 gr. – 500 gr 5000

FACTIONS 20–50 G

RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2015 MARCH

300

700

1100

1500

1900

2300

2700

3100

3500

3900

4300

2014

Au

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2014

Ju

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2013

Au

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2013

M

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2015

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arch

2012

Au

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2012

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arch

2011

Au

gust

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2010

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www.balticjewellerynews.comIf you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office:Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23, [email protected]

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber 2015 March

AMBER FROM POLAND


2,5 gr. – 5 gr. 450

5 gr. – 10 gr. 700

10 gr. - 20 gr. 1400

20 gr. – 50 gr. 2800

AMBER FROM UKRAINE


2,5 gr. – 5 gr. 460

4 gr. – 10 gr. 750

10 gr. - 20 gr. 1500

20 gr. – 50 gr. 3000

50 gr. – 100 gr. 3600

100 gr. – 200 gr. 4000

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Amber Silver 925 Jewellery Price/gr

Handmade 1,70 EUR

Mashine made 1,40 EUR

AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – MARCH 2015

The Worldwide Price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery

2015 March

SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2011 MARCH – 2015 MARCH

EUR/gr handmademashine

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office:Tel. / fax +370 5 212 08 23, [email protected]

0

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handmademashine

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2014March

2013August

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The Worldwide Gold PriceGOLD PRICE CHANGE 2013–2014

EUR MN

[email protected]

15000

16500

18000

19500

21000

22500

24000

25500

27000

28500

30000

20142013Q4Q3Q2Q1Q4Q3Q2Q1

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GLOBAL GOLDJEWELLERY MARKET –

THIRD QUARTER 2014S

Review by WORLD GOLD COUNCIL

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In the third quarter, 534.2 t of gold jewellery was

consumed around the globe. On the face of it,

the 4 % year-on-year decline suggests a weak

market. But such comparisons are heavily influenced by the

events of last year: Q3 2013 was the strongest third quar-

ter for jewellery demand since 2008, and by a fair margin.

Longer term analysis shows a market in good health. Q3

demand was marginally stronger than the 5-year quarterly

average of 527.6 t, while year-to-date volumes continue to

extend the broad uptrend from the low seen in 2009

India did much of the heavy-lifting: jewellery demand

there jumped to 182.9 t, almost matching Q2 2013’s

upsurge. India’s market is discussed in detail in the Execu-

tive summary. Demand in China was comparable with

2012. The scale of 2013’s exceptional buying continued

to overshadow the market, dictating a 39 % year-on-year

decline. Demand was, however, broadly in line with both

Q3 2012 and the 5-year quarterly average (of 148.2 t and

154.9t respectively). As usual, the pattern was strikingly

similar in Hong Kong, where consumers from the mainland

tend to account for most of demand.

China’s jewellery market continued to normalise fol-

lowing last year’s rapid expansion. The industry consoli-

dated further during Q3, although larger brands have been

relatively immune to the crunch. Some have managed to

expand. In Wuhan, for example, Chow Tai Fook is build-

ing a whopping 436,000 m2, multi-billion dollar jewellery

park, which will house manufacturing, logistics, sales,

training and e-commerce.5

Looking at consumer preferences, 18-karat (K-gold)

jewellery was relatively more robust than the 24-karat

(chuk kam) segment. The government’s anti-corruption

drive may have contributed to this trend.

The Golden week holiday in the opening weeks of

October lifted demand at the end of the quarter. Reports

so far in Q4 suggest that sales during the holiday period

were good, but fairly short lived. However, demand should

begin to pick up towards the end of the year thanks to the

usual boost from Chinese New Year.

Indonesia – largest of the smaller Asian markets – saw

Q3 demand dip below 10 t. This was partially a response to

strength of demand last year. But equally important was the

Presidential election in July, which created a degree of politi-

cal instability and discouraged spending on gold jewellery.

Jewellery demand in Turkey of 19.2 t was the lowest

Q3 on record. Consumers were unnerved by domestic

political turmoil; worrying economic signals; and escalat-

ing Syrian violence in close proximity to the Turkish border.

The ban on paying for gold jewellery by credit card instal-

ments continued to hang over the market, although this

restriction was partially repealed in October. Consumers

buying gold on credit will now be able to pay in instal-

ments for up to four months. This should provide some

support to Turkish jewellery demand going forward.

Demand in the Middle East was 36 t – 14 % weaker

year-on-year. Demand for gold jewellery across the region

suffered from the comparison with strong demand last year.

A trend towards lower-karat and gem-set jewellery

encroached on fine gold volumes. However, the long term

picture appears to show the market building something

of a base, with a series of higher lows from the trough of

Q4 2011.

Growth in the US jewellery market – as discussed in the

Executive summary – was replicated in the UK. Consum-

ers benefitted from last year’s higher-priced stock having

worked its way out of the market. Lower international pric-

es were reflected at the retail level and retailers took the

opportunity to start building stocks ahead of the season-

ally strong fourth quarter. The 18 % increase in Q3 was the

fifth consecutive year-on-year rise in UK jewellery demand.

Gold jewellery demand in Russia edged up to 18.6 t,

marginally above Q3 2013. This was in spite of a rise in

the average domestic gold price – in contrast to most

other markets – due to a weaker rouble. The market has

recovered well since the 2009 collapse, holding above the

10-year quarterly average of 17.5 t. However, domestic

geopolitical challenges reined in demand growth, the pace

of which is slowing.

Rings by Sarah SWELL, photo from lovegold.com

By Alec CORDAY

Won

derm

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.com

You bet it is. Most prices for rare gems are basi-

cally adjusted according to what the seller wants

to have and the buyer is willing to pay. And that

depends a lot on the value the general public opinion puts

on said gem. Let's compare it with the “rare” diamonds.

The yearly production of gem-quality diamonds is at a

whopping 130 million carats. That's more than 20 metric

tons. A lot more. But as De Beers' Nicky Oppenheimer said:

“I don't want diamonds to be discounted. I abhor it. What

is tantalizing is that at the luxury end – the famous blue

box of Tiffany's – there are brands getting the margins and

markups enjoyed in the luxury goods business as a whole.

We want to see stores pushing the preciousness of dia-

monds rather than treating them as a commodity you can

discount.”

IS BLUE AMBER among the world's rarest gems?

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D O M I N I C A N R E P U B L I C

Northern amber site

Santo Domingo

Santiago

La Romana

Eastern amber site – 1

Eastern amber site – 2

ATLANTIC OCEAN

CARIBBEAN SEA

0 80 km

› Visit: http://www.blueamber.info

Or this one: “We realised that R&D was going to make

the difference to this business. Diamond can be engi-

neered in many ways to suit different applications. You

can control characteristics like shape, crystal strength and

thermal resistance that's why it's called an engineer's best

friend,” said Hultner, Diamond Research Laboratory (DRL),

South Africa.

See how 'rare' diamonds are? Rare my foot.

And Blue Amber? Although there are no official num-

bers, but in comparison, top-grade Blue Amber will be

found up to 50 kilos per year, high-grade Blue Amber has

probably a yearly output of approximately 150 to 250 kilos,

while the low-grade does not exceed 900 kilos per year.

Now, that IS rare.

Just how is Blue Amber graded? There are three fac-

tors in setting prices and both fluctuate radically: availabil-

ity, color and translucence or even transparence.

Availability is probably the most controlling one.

There is blue amber in several parts of the world, like Mex-

ico and Indonesia, even some in Australia.But the most

asked-for high grade blue amber stems from the Domini-

can Republic.

Many outside factors influence the amount surfacing,

the least of which is not rain.

And nobody likes to work in a flooded mine. There-

fore, during the rainy season (Ocober to May) finds are

scarce. And during the hurricane season (June to Septem-

ber), the mines are often flooded as well. The other ques-

tion is: for how long will blue amber be found? The mines

have not yet run out, but there is a strong possibility that it

might happen one day.

Color and translucence are the more complicat-

ed ones. The more inclusions, the stronger the color. The

more translucence, the weaker the color.

This makes it difficult for a blue amber merchant to

please customers since he is bound by nature's limitations.

In the Baltic most of the amber produced for the world

market is heated an treated to guarantee an even quality.

With blue amber, this is not possible.

Compared to regular amber and its color variations it

is in the highest price range, fluctuating with the market

value according to the above factors. Matter of fact, clean

and transparent blue amber is more expensive than gold

and many diamonds.

Therefore, if you find a piece of blue amber being

offered too cheap, it might not be the real thing you are

looking at. What about it's investment value? Unlike dia-

monds Blue Amber actually is an investment whose value

increases over time. True, there will never be a well-known

Blue Amber market in the likes of diamonds, but that is not

a bad thing, to the contrary.

Doesn't it feel good to know you love Blue Amber, a

gem so much rarer than diamonds?

Yeah...diamonds are a girls best friend. But Blue Amber

is her true love.

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BLUE AMBER IS MUCH RARER than diamonds!

What do Indians see in amber? Does the stone

have any traditions in India – the country of gold jew-

ellery encrusted with diamonds?

Knowledge about amber is rather limited here. Espe-

cially taking into account the fact that to hear about amber

and to know what it actually is, are two completely differ-

ent things. Most of amber that can be seen on the Indian

market is in the form of jewellery. Unfortunately, most

often those are fakes make of plastic and other materials.

Amber became more popular when back in 2013, in Guja-

rat in the western part of India, deposits of fossilised resin

were discovered. In Hindi amber is called kaharua. Some

tribes, such as the ones in the northern-east part of the

country, use amber in their jewellery.

Amber has never been promoted in India as a jewellery stone,

in the way that for instance sapphires or diamonds are. Currently,

diamonds are very popular among the mass customers, mainly as a

result of the DeBeers concern’s activities.

At the moment, Polish producers of amber prod-

ucts are focused on the Chinese market. However,

the voices that they should slowly begin to look

for alternative markets, can also be heard here and

there. In your opinion, could it be the Indian market?

Yes, Polish producers concentrate on the Chinese

market, as there is high level of acceptance for amber. It

appears when some stone or material becomes socially

accepted. In order to achieve this status, promotion con-

nected with such a product is necessary, so as it becomes

fashionable on a particular market. Platinum wasn’t socially

accepted in India, however it changed when the Platinum

Gild launched appropriate promotional activities. Today,

the platinum market in India is growing from one year to

another. In my view, India is a very good market. Although

that market is sensitive to price changes, its potential is

enormous. Each market becomes saturated sooner or

later, and China is surely no exception to that rule. The

question is: China and what next? 20 –25 years ago amber

virtually didn’t exist in China.

You said that acceptance for amber is necessary.

Is the Indian market ready to accept amber in the

form of modern jewellery, rather that the beads as it

has been the case so far?

Yes. The Indian market has changed a lot in the last

few years, and in my opinion it is the right time to imple-

ment new ideas, concepts and products. An Indian con-

sumer is highly aware of the latest jewellery trends in the

THE FUTURE OF AMBER IS IN INDIA –AN INTERVIEW WITH NEERAJ KAYATHWAL

By Anna SADO Amber Portal amber.com.pl

The tremendous size and cultural diversity

of the Indian market certainly can put off

amber jewellery producers who are focused on

China and are not looking for new outlets. In

Neeraj Kayathwal's opinion, however, now is

the right time to invest there. Why?Neeraj KAYATHWAL, has over 25 years of experience in the jewellery and precious stones

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IIJS trade fair in Mumbai, did not have a single piece of amber jewellery

Amber color is popular in Indian wedding world. As I mentioned before, the Indian market is high-

ly price sensitive and at the same time has a great price

awareness. Introducing amber beads in necklaces or ear-

rings is an easier and safer way of entering this market. The

more modern the jewellery looks, the higher its chances

for success are. The Indians will as happily wear beads as

the western fashion. I’m not trying to say that the larger

and more exclusive jewellery cannot be introduced to this

market. It is important, however, how amber is launched

to that market. Decisive promotional activities should be

taken with the emphasis place on the fascinating history

of amber and its unique healing properties. Yes, the Indian

market is ready for modern jewellery.

What does the term modern jewellery mean in

reference to the Indian market? I assume that it is

completely different jewellery to that from Europe

or different regions in Asia.

In India trends don’t change as dramatically as in Europe.

For a long time, people there were very conservative in their

approach to the new fashion trends in the world – it’s the

same in the case of jewellery. A lot has changed in the last

10 years, as far as the acceptance of European trends is con-

cerned, and the changes are really well visible. The Indians

buy European style jewellery. In the last few years many

international brands and makes have opened their shops in

India. It is a very big country and the fashion sense is greatly

varied depending on the region. A contemporary Indian

woman is well-read and travels a lot. She is familiar with the

trends and brands all over the world. In November Bulgari

opened its first shop in New Delhi.

At the IIJS trade fair in Mumbai I didn’t notice a

single piece of amber jewellery. I couldn’t find any in

the shop in the city centre, either. Are you sure that

in India it’s really a good time for amber?

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Traditional Indian jewellery in

InterantionalJewellery Week 2014

If a product has not been introduced to the market,

how can we expect any results? Is India not a brand new

market, which might be explored? Let’s consider how fas-

cinating entering this market might be. Let’s imagine its

marketing capabilities. Amber has a great origin and rich

history. Currently the Indian market is worth about $40

billion, and by 2016 it is projected to be 45 –50 billion.

Obviously, the large part of it, that is 80 % is gold jewel-

lery. However, 20 % of its value is still a lot.

DeBeers appeared in India when the masses had no

idea about diamond jewellery. It’s enough to take a look at

what is happening there today: nobody can even think to

wear jewellery made of semi-precious stones. Where did

this fashion come from? It’s a European fashion that has

been adapted by the Indians and now they treat it as their

own. I am convinced that the time is always right to start,

otherwise it will never be right. DeBeers is a cartel with a

huge marketing budget. Contrary to amber jewellery pro-

ducers, who don’t form a cartel, and don’t have the funds

to build a brand new market.

Start with small steps. It’s a mantra. I agree that there is

no comparison between DeBeers, which has a huge budget,

and amber jewellery producers. However, DeBeers is mere-

ly an example here. It does not mean, though, that small

budget plans have no chance to succeed. Not everybody

needs a full page size advert in a newspaper or on billboards

in each city. A non-standard way of thinking, independent

of the budget, is very important. Showing jewellery with

amber at the main exhibition events for the industry and

the public will allow to reach consumers. Placing informa-

tion in the media on a regular basis will also help here.

Individual meetings with goldsmiths can make a really big

difference and have a considerable impact on the future of

amber in India. In my opinion, amber organisations, the Pol-

ish government, Polish embassy and consular offices should

increase the scope of the support they provide.

You have attempted to produce amber jewellery

yourself. Have you achieved a success in sales?

I bought a few blocks of amber at the trade fair in

Hong Kong and I was fascinated with amber. Back then

I saw real amber for the first time in my life. I made only

5 pieces of jewellery, no more. It was rather an experi-

ment, carried out in order to understand how amber can

be processed. During those attempts of production a few

pieces were destroyed, as the workers didn’t know how

to process amber. I showed the finished products to my

family and friends – they really like them. However, to sell

you need a whole collections of 100 or 200 pieces, with a

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proper story to support it. In my opinion amber will be a

great discovery for the Indian market. Perhaps even bigger

than the one from the Jurassic Park? (laughs)

Have you ever thought about selling jewellery

with amber from Poland in India?

Certainly. After my visit to Hong Kong in 2013 I was

more than convinced that amber and amber jewellery can

successfully be sold in India. I launched a partnership with

one of the Polish companies and became their representative

in India, south-eastern Asian countries, Australia, and other

countries located around India. We’ve signed an agreement,

but to my disappointment nothing else has happened in that

field. I think that the lack of raw material resulting from the

problems in the Ukraine has forced this company to revise

their plans connected to entering new markets.

What forced you to give up on your plans? Are

you looking for a new, better partner?

I have not given up on my plans. From the perspective of

time I think that it’s perhaps better that the things worked

out the way they did. That company was clearly not ready to

enter a new market, and I needed more time to learn more

about amber. All marketing ideas must be well thought-

through and only then they can be implemented.

What is your plan?

There is no point in generating any plans without sup-

port. The plans will make sense only when amber com-

panies notice the potential of the Indian market and their

future connected with it. It’s teamwork, where everybody

has the same vision and goal. It surely won’t be easy. The

plan itself must come from the amber organisations, or the

producers. Currently I am a member of the management

board of a jewellery company, which is about to begin its

activity. We’re going to deal with fantastic, light-weight

diamonds and gold jewellery. Online sale is the future both

in India and all over the world. It also means tremendous

possibilities of amber promotion. As the proverb says:

“Rome wasn’t built in a day”.

Neeraj Kayathwal, has over 25 years of experience in

the jewellery and precious stones industry. He specialises

in the diamond and precious stone trade, jewellery mar-

keting on the Indian market and beyond, he’s focused on

growth, researching current trends in the jewellery indus-

try. He is a member and exhibitor at many leading fair

trade events of the jewellery industry in the world.

Currently, he is the director of a company dealing with

stationary sales www.ilovediamonds.com, which is soon

going to launch online sales in Mumbai, India.

Memories from International Jewellery Week 2014

IN INDIA TRENDS DON'T CHANGE as dramatically as in Europe

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The 4 day event will occupy more than

60,000 square metres of exhibition

space in 6 halls and gather over

1250 local and overseas exhibitors in National and

International Pavillions from more than 25 countries

including Turkey with an extensive display of Fine Gold

Jewellery, Pearl Jewellery, Silver Jewellery and Households,

Diamonds & Precious Stones Jewellery, Diamonds, Precious

and Semi -Precious Stones, Pearls, Watches, Jewellery Dis-

World Class International B2B Gold and Jewellery Trade Fair;

40th INTERNATIONAL “ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW”

MARCH 2015

Press Release by ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Press Office

Turkey’s number one and the ultimate trading

platform for the worldwide jewelry industry

professionals; “Istanbul Jewelry Show” March

2015 organised by UBM Rotaforte will be

held in between 12–15 March 2015 at Istanbul

Exhibition Center (CNR Expo) for the 40th time,

in its 30th year anniversary.

play & Packaging Materials, Gemological Labs, Transporta-

tion , Softwares, Safes, Mold, Machinery, Jewellery Tools

& Equipments just for industry professionals.

CAPITAL OF THE GOLD AND JEWELERY INDUSTRY IN THE REGIONAs the 3rd largest manufacturer of gold jewelry and

the 2nd biggest exporter of the world, Turkey serves

around 80 countries in the region as a trading hub for

countries in the Mediterranean, Eastern Europe, Russian

Federation and CIS, the Middle East, Black Sea, Caucasia

and North Africa.

With Turkey’s strategic location,”Istanbul Jewelry

Show March” is serving as the gateway for the world jew-

elry industry and provides a unique meeting platform for to

explore new business opportunities, ideal place to source

for wide range of new products, discover the latest trends

of gold, diamond, silver jewelry, gold mounting, gemstones,

pearls and watches with the competitive price and quality to

order for the new spring – summer – autumn retail season.

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The Turkish art and craft of jewellery, inspired by

5000 years of cultural and historical heritage of Anatolia

combined with the latest technology, outstanding crafts-

manship, immense variety, flexible production capacity,

excellent finishing quality, competitive prices and shortest

delivery time make “Istanbul Jewelry Show March” to

be an ideal place for sourcing products on every category

of price and quality, from price point merchandise to high-

end design jewelry.

“ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW” MARCH; PURELY TRADE – SIMPLY THE MARKET PLACE

Istanbul Jewelry Show March as a “Destination

To Satisfy Any Sourcing Needs” from raw materials and

technology to fine finished jewellery will gather together

the entire jewellery industry including manufacturers,

wholesalers, retailers, exporters, importers, designers, buy-

ing agents and major industry professionals with a bigger

selection of products of high quality contemporary designs

and competitive prices by placing orders at the fair site.

Istanbul Jewelry Show March is supported by the

Small and Medium Enterprises Development Organisation

(KOSGEB), Jewellery Exporters’ Association (JTR), certified by

the Union of International Fairs (UFI) and the Quality Man-

agement System ISO-9001, ensuring that it represents an

outstanding international trade event serving the fast grow-

ing domestic and international markets surrounding Turkey.

ABOUT UBM ROTAFORTE (www.ubmrotaforte.com)UBM Rotaforte, a joint-venture company formed by

UBM Asia and Rotaforte International Fairs Inc., owns the

Istanbul Jewelry Show, an international exhibition for jew-

ellery, gems , watches and related equipment. Now in its

30th year, the exhibition is held twice a year, in March and

in October. Overall, the shows attract almost 60,000 visi-

tors and 1,700 exhibitors, occupying net show floor space

of more than 38,500 square meters. Products covered

include gold, diamond and silver jewellery, precious and

semi-precious stones, pearls, gold mountings, watches and

clocks, machinery, tools and equipment, display units and

security devices. The business is supported by the Turkish

Jewellery Association JTR, a national trade body which rep-

resents more than 1,100 jewellery companies, including the

major manufacturers. UBM Rotaforte also organises Turk-

ish jewellery pavilions at a number of third-party events in

U.A.E-Dubai, India-Mumbai and Germany-Freiburg.

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AMBER IN POLAND

Amber-bearing sediments of the Paleogene period

are located in Lublin province, in the triangle

of Parczew, Lubartow, and Radzyn, known as

Parczew Delta. The deposits resemble the layers of amber

in Western Ukraine, Klesov Delta, however, they are

located more deeply, 20–30 metres deep on average. So

far, only one area was documented in the period of 1980–

1990 as a viable deposit. The deposit was named after the

location where it was discovered: Gorka Lubartowska. Its

area is approximately 200 hectares, and it is estimated to

have more than 1,000 tonnes of amber.

The larger part of the area is owned by the Lublin

Region Municipality. After an extensive use of this land for

agricultural purposes, results of a tender were announced

for leasing several land lots (area totalling 80 hectares) for

exploration and documentation of amber deposits. The

results of this tender were published in December 2014.

The lessee had to explore and document amber deposits,

and, after documenting them, the lessee would be

given priority to seek mining concessions. Six companies

participated in the bidding process, and the initial monthly

fee set for the land use amounted to 1,500 PLN per hectare.

The highest rent fee was the only evaluation criterion. The

best bid was submitted by a Lithuanian company, UAB

Botanex, from Klaipeda (8,000 PLN, or about 2,000 EUR).

Another non-winning bid was 1,560 PLN. The winning

bid was immediately assessed as unrealistically expensive,

especially since the exploration had to take two years, and

also include procedures of extension and even termination

of amber exploration. Soon it appeared that the Lithuanian

company was impossible to contact, so after appropriate

procedures were followed the municipality is making

preparations to announce another bidding competition

that is planned for March 2015.

In February 2015, the State School of Higher Education

in Chełm (PWSZ) organised a two-day conference entitled

Lublin Amber – Findings, Geology, Deposits, Prospects,

Preconditions. The rector of the School, Professor Jozef

Zajac, said that the most important task and the purpose

of the conference was to change the negative attitude

of members of the municipality towards amber and its

deposits, and to show the opportunities amber creates in

the local economy. The conference aimed to summarise

relevant news and determine both directions and meth-

ods of future exploration of amber deposits in Lublin. This

conference was a meeting of scientific, municipal, conces-

sion and control bodies as well as of potential investors

and opinion makers. In fact, the conference was attended

by the most prominent Polish geologists: Prof. Barbara

Kosmowska-Ceranowicz from the Museum of the Earth

In 2014 Poland experienced a real amber fever. However, it was more of a media frenzy than

actual changes in the business. The fever began in February, with an article on amber in an

influential daily newspaper, Rzeczpospolita (Rzeczpospolita). The author of this article compared

amber prices with those of gold, arguing that the price of a gram of amber has already passed

the price of the latter. Other journalists, without having verified this information, multiplied

assumed geological formations by the astronomical price, which caused even more heat in the

media. Comparing media pieces on amber in the Polish media in 2013 and 2014, their number has

increased by several dozen times.

Report by Michal KOSIOR

Conference Lublin amber in Chelm, picture by PWS

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in Warsaw of the Polish Academy of Sciences, prof. Niec

Marek from the Polish Academy of Sciences in Kracow,

prof. Ryszard Salacinski from the University of Warsaw,

dr. Jacek Kasinski from the State Geological Institute in

Warsaw, dr. Regina Kramarska from the Gdansk Institute

of Marine Geology. It was also attended by local govern-

ment representatives, businessmen, and Robert Pytlos,

the Representative of Gdansk Mayor for Amber Affairs,

who presented Gdansk experience related to land lease.

The preliminary amount of amber deposits in the Lublin

area is estimated to be 250,000 tonnes, however, detailed

geological investigations are needed to confirm the profit-

ability of amber extraction.

Since the autumn of 2014, after a letter of intent was

signed by the local government representatives, organisa-

tions and companies, geological exploration has been tak-

ing place in territories of the Parczew parish. The goal of

this research is to assess amber resources in the parish and

to inform the people if their lands are as valuable as many

people think.

At the same time, more than 30 permits have been

issued for geological works and exploration of amber

deposits in Zulaw Wislanych and Gdansk areas, where

municipal and private land lots are leased for exploration

purposes. Amber excavated during the deposit documen-

tation is supplied to industrial companies in Gdansk. Land

lots in Northern Mazovia and Kurpie region, where flat

secondary deposits of the Holocene period were success-

fully operated in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries,

are prepared for exploration works. This extraction only

partly meets the needs of the Polish amber processing

business, hence, opening an open mine in the deposits of

the Paleogene period in Lublin is needed in order to fully

stop the import of raw materials.

Fragment of amber-bearing sediments of the Holocene period in Gdansk area. Photo Michal Kosior

Hydraulic extraction in Gdansk area. Photo Michal KosiorIN

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16 MILLION-YEAR-OLD HITCHHIKER – AMBER

SPECIMEN REVEALS UNKNOWN ANIMAL BEHAVIOURS

S Press Release by FACULTY OF LIFE SCIENCES, THE UNIVERSITY OF MANCHESTER

The CT scan of the springtail on the back of the mayfly

Mayfly Wider Shot

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Amber Mayfly head and springtail

Stunning images, including video footage, from a

CT scan of amber have revealed the first evidence

of any creature using an adult mayfly for transport.

Researchers at the University of Manchester say this

16 million-year-old hitchhiker most likely demonstrates

activity that is taking place today but has never previously

been recorded.

Entombed in amber the tiny springtail can be seen rest-

ing in a v-shaped depression at the base of one of the

mayfly's wings. It appears to have secured itself for trans-

port using its prehensile antennae.

Dr David Penney and colleagues from the Faculty of

Life Sciences and the School of Materials used a high

resolution CT scanner to take over 3,000 X-rays from

different angles. The scientists then created slices, showing

the fossil in cross sections. From these slices 3D digital

images of the springtail were made so an accurate analysis

of its behaviour could be conducted.

Dr Penney says: “The images are really impressive. This

pioneering approach to studying fossils has allowed us

an insight into the behaviour of one of the world’s most

prevalent organisms.”

Springtails are minute creatures (usually only 1–2 mm

long) related to true insects. They’re found around the

world in great numbers, including here in the UK. Garden-

ers will recognise them as the tiny insects that hop around

when soil is disturbed. They readily colonize newly-formed

islands but very little is known about how they manage

to migrate. One of the reasons is that they are incredibly

nervous creatures and have an astonishing ability to leap

away from danger using a springing organ (the furca) on

the underside of the abdomen, which makes observing

them in life very difficult.

Interestingly, when the 3D image of the springtail in

amber is magnified it's possible to see that the springtail

is very slightly detached (by just 50 micrometres) from the

mayfly. This suggests it was attempting to spring away as

the amber set around it.

Only one previous case of phoresy (the transportation

of one organism by another) has been recorded for spring-

tails. This was found in a piece of Baltic amber where five

springtails were hooked in a row on the leg of a harvest-

man arachnid.

It was this discovery in 2010 which prompted Dr

Penney to take a closer look at his own specimen. “I had

initially thought the creature on the mayfly may have been

a tiny nymphal pseudoscorpion, as they are known to use

other creatures for transport, and this behaviour is not

uncommon to see in amber. I was interested in the fact

that this was the first time a creature had been found on an

adult mayfly but I didn't truly appreciate the significance of

my find until I used the CT scanner and was able to identify

the animal as a springtail.”

Phoresy in adult mayflies has never before been

recorded. They live for just a short period of time from one

hour to a few days depending on the species. The primary

function of the adult stage is reproduction and they are

unable to feed. This makes it very difficult to study mayflies

in their natural habitat and record instances of phoresy.

The amber specimen encasing the mayfly and the

springtail provides an accurate snapshot of behaviour

that scientists wouldn't otherwise be able to record, high-

lighting one important application of the fossil record for

understanding the present. The near perfect condition of

the mayfly demonstrates that it died instantaneously and

wasn't moved far from where it rested when the resin ran

over it. Equally the position of the springtail resting on the

back of the mayfly and the fact that it is in contact with

the creature means the pair were unlikely to have been

brought together by the resin as it moved down the tree.

The details of Dr Penney’s research has been published

in the journal, PLOS ONE. More analysis of amber using CT

scans is continuing.

Dr Penney says: “The CT scan allows us to build up

a 3D image that catches minute details of the animal.

We can rotate the image to see parts of the creature

that are obscured when looking from the outside in. In

effect, we are able to digitally dissect the fossil without

causing any damage to it whatsoever. This technology has

revolutionised how we study fossils and the findings are

incredibly exciting.”

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By Virginija ZYGIENE

How would you present Ku-

wait and yourself to jewellers?

Kuwait is the oldest of the Arabic

and Gulf countries. Amber jewellery

there is used by eminent people and

very rich families. And Kuwaiti people

are among the most prolific owners

of amber jewellery and they collect

amber from the best countries like

Germany, Lithuania, Poland, Ukraine,

and elsewhere. In our country ladies

and men use amber as an accessory.

Also it is part of our culture and it inspires other countries

like Bahrain, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates, etc.

I belong to the Bohamad fam-

ily, it is a business family. We were

the first family to become involved

in amber jewellery in Kuwait. It

is a successful business passing

from grandfather to father to son.

Anyone who would like to visit

can arrange to do so through our

accountant.

Could you tell us more about

your family’s amber museum?

And why exactly you are inter-

ested in amber?

The Bohamad family have been

involved for more than ten years, we have been also

involved with all the international and local exhibitions for

Baltic Jewellery News had the great opportunity to interview Jassim Bohamad, an amber jewellery collector. The Bohamad family established the first Amber Company and the first private family museum. Last year the International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” chose him to be the Honourable Ambassador in Kuwait. Jassim Bohamad is trying to get advance publicity for the Arab countries about the “Amber Trip” show.

Jassim BOHAMAD, the Honourable Ambassador of the International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” in Kuwait

MY HOBBY IS TO BUY AMBER FROM ALL AROUND THE WORLD

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amber jewellery. We own the best Amber Jewellery and

do lots of amber business deals during the year and all

around the world.

I adore all kinds of amber jewellery as I said. It is a

hereditary business; it came to me through my grandfather

and father. Talking about myself I have earned a good liv-

ing from amber over the last 20 years especially the last

five years and that’s because the price of amber has been

increasing in the Gulf countries.

People in rich countries love to own amber jewellery

which comes from their culture. As for the shops in the

Baltic Sea region, they are good for tourism and to buy

gifts as souvenirs. However they are not good for a profes-

sional such as myself because amber is expensive, is not of

good quality or what I am looking for.

How do you see amber in the world context?

Amber prices have not been stable over the last few

years and this is normal because it is line with the main

rule of supply and demand. Furthermore, in the last five

years the demand for amber has increased a lot especially

among the Chinese. This leads to gambling with the prices

of amber and leads to prices in the shops of the Baltic area

being excessive and so at international exhibitions people

shy away from buying amber and go more for gold and

silver.

At the moment all amber dealers are anticipating that

the prices will change, especially in processor countries like

Kaliningrad and Poland, and everybody is watching the

developments, and I think that the price change will be a

surprise, and I would advise everyone to be patient and not

buy at the current prices as they are excessive.

In your opinion, when can we expect stabilisation

in amber prices?

In my opinion, prices have risen and became crazier for

people who want to buy and sell amber. I would like amber

to get a real and fair price so that people can practice and

be confident with the hobby to buy more amber.

What are your plans for future?

We will try to ensure that Kuwait will be best amber

country from the Gulf and all the Arabic countries by using

and manufacturing unique objects.

That’s why we brought professional artists from

around the world to work in this business; they are from

China Egypt, Iraq, Kuwait and Lithuania, Syria, Turkey. All

of these are working in Kuwait and we believe that Turk-

ish people are the best at what they create as they are

talented.

Could you name the top exhibitions you will visit

this year?

The exhibitions are wonderful everywhere but the best

exhibition is in Poland because it is big and beautiful. On

the other hand the exhibition in Vilnius is good, but needs

to include other exhibitors, as at the moment the only

exhibitors are Polish and Lithuanian, there should also be

exhibitors from other countries, such as the Middle East

and Europe, etc.

What is your mission and vision as Honourable

Ambassador of the International Baltic Jewellery

show Amber Trip in Kuwait?

Last year the “Amber trip” exhibition chose me to be

its ambassador. I try to make advance publicity in the Arab

countries about the exhibition.

In my opinion the “Amber trip” is the best exhibition

and I sign up yearly because of family, and the weather. It

is a neat tidy place and the members exactly know what I

like and they help me to choose what I want.

Thank you very much for your interview!

Rosaries of white, and white with yellow amber sell the best in Arab countries

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Photos of the press service of Ministry for Internal Affairs of Russia in the Kaliningrad region

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On 25 February (2015 – by edi-

tors), the police and the

special rapid reaction

unit of Kaliningrad detained six members of an organ-

ized group engaged in amber trafficking. According to the

press service of the regional Department of the Interior,

the alleged leader was 33-year-old resident of Moscow.

The police detained the man on Dzerzhinskogo street

and found 75 kilograms of 16-fraction raw amber in the

trunk of his BMW X5. According to preliminary data, the

Muscovite bought the solar stone at a region local for 48

thousand USD. The seller was identified and taken to the

police department for the proceedings.

At the same time, on the Kalinin Square in Kalinin-

grad, an illegal sale of a major lump of amber weighing

484 grams was stopped by police officers. The dealer was

found to be 37-year-old native of Kaliningrad, who acted

as a mediator in the group. His asking price for the nugget

was a few hundred thousands of roubles.

Further, four more members of an organized group

were detained as a part of the large-scale raid. Operatives

and investigators are examining all the detainees now.

The gang members were armed with cold and

traumatic weapons. Besides, one of the cars, a means of

transport of the suspects, was registered to a foreign com-

pany.

A GANG OF ILLEGAL AMBER DEALERS SEIZED IN KALININGRAD

Report by клопс.ru

The police found

75 KILOGRAMS OF 16-FRACTION RAW AMBER

in the trunk of car

105


ILLEGAL AMBER MINING THRIVES IN ZHYTOMYR REGION, January 22, 2015 Report by zhzh.info

In early December (of 2014 – Editor’s comment) law

enforcement officers conducted a number of sanctioned

searches in the northern districts of Zhytomyr region, in

the locations where illegally mined amber was bought,

based on intelligence information.

Right after the raids amber prices plummeted in the

area. According to a reliable source, the Chief of Olevsk

District Police Department was clear about a loyalty tax,

that was 100 USD per workday per shop. Local buyers have

nominated an “elder” to collect money from all the “entre-

preneurs” and hand it over to a police officer according to

an agreed procedure. The police officer would then hand

nearly all the funds to a Regional Chief. One can only guess

what happens with the funds afterwards.

Please remember that the volume of amber illegally

mined in just one field of Olevsk district in the months of

September and October was worth 700 million UAH.

As it has turned out, the area is regularly visited by

expensive SUVs carrying cash and accompanied by traffic

police cars. Information has been obtained that 10 million

UAH and 2 million USD in cash was brought from the capi-

tal to Olevsk by the main highway.

IN UKRAINE 30 AMBER THIEVES BEAT POLICE, January 23, 2015 Report by bloknot.ru

The incident took place in Rivne region near the vil-

lage of Fedorovka. Six Ukrainian policemen suffered the

beating.

Local police learned that a group of people were ille-

gally mining amber in Galbin area. A squad of law enforce-

ment officers decided to disrupt the mining and came to

the location where it was organised. Here, the police saw

that amber was being mined by several dozen people using

special equipment: power pumps. Upon arrival law enforc-

ers attempted to take the evidence they needed from the

quarry but it cost them their health.

About thirty angry thieves attacked the police officers

and began beating them and threatening them with a hunt-

ing rifle. The policemen had to give the collected evidence

back and escape. After the incident, six law enforcers were

taken to the hospital due to various body injuries.

DESPITE SECURITY PERSONNEL AND VIDEO CAMERAS A TON OF AMBER WAS STOLEN FROM A WAREHOUSE IN KALININGRAD, January 23, 2015 Report by Klops.Ru

Kaliningrad police is investigating the disappearance

of amber from a secured storage building on Turukhansk

Street. As the Russian MIA (Ministry of Internal Affairs)

Administration for the Kaliningrad region reported to Klops.

Ru, on January 20, police received a statement from a rep-

resentative of an amber distribution company, claiming that

40 bags of the solar stone, weighing 25 kg each, had been

stolen. The damage amounted to more than six million rou-

bles. The police has found that the crime was committed

during the period between November 7, 2014 and Janu-

ary 20, 2015. At that time the storage area was guarded

by a security guard and video surveillance cameras along

the perimeter. The representative of the company explained

that the amber was bought from the Amber Combine.

ATTEMPTS TO BRING UKRAINIAN AMBER TO THE KALININGRAD REGION IN ORDER TO SELL IT AS THE BALTIC ONE, November 6, 2014 Report by rosbalt.ru; Klops.Ru

Attempts to smuggle Ukrainian amber into the Kalinin-

grad region have been noticed, said the Head of the MIA

(the Ministry of Internal Affairs) Administration for the

region Yevgeny Martynov in his interview to Klops.Ru.

“In its current condition Ukrainian amber has practically

no chance on the international market. Therefore, some

people had the idea to mix it with Kaliningrad amber and sell

it under our famous brand name abroad. However, we have

successfully prevented all such attempts and the situation is

under control,” – Martynov said. He denied rumours that

every year at least 100 tonnes of amber are smuggled out of

the region. “Today an illegal purchase of a more or less large

shipment of amber is virtually impossible, and it was verified

using undercover methods. However, of course, preventing

absolutely all such attempts is not yet possible. For example,

the last one-time confiscation by customs officers included

72 kilograms of amber found on a 30-tonne truck. Or, for

example, a Chinese was detained at a border crossing, with

20 kilograms of amber found in his backpack. You should

agree that these are specific performance indicators of the

efficiency of law enforcement agencies,” – said the Chief of

the MIA Administration for the Kaliningrad region.

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1 V.S. DARVIN from “Darvin Jewelery“ and Giedrius GUNTORIUS from “Amber Trip“

2 Simona STATNECKYTE, jeweler

3 Hinz ECKHARD and Helmut SPANGENBERG from “Ostsee Schmuck“

4 Remigijus ZADEIKIS ir Martynas ZADEIKIS from “RMD Linija”

FLASHBACKS FROM THE AMBER TRIP 2014

5 Knut RUDLOFF ir Mauro ONGARO from “Nordschmuck“

6 Daiva MOLYTE-LUKAUSKIENE from A. Lukausko įmonė with the visitor of the exhibition Dovile

7 Aleksandras RUS fro Aleksandras Rus, exhibitor

8 Asta MILIENE ir Dainius MILIUS from D. Miliaus ŪKĮ

9 Albertas PETKEVICIUS from A. Petkevičiaus Prekybos Įmonė

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9

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10

12

13 14

10 Astijus JASAITIS with his wife Ingrida from “Napoleonas“

11 Indrė GIEDRAITYTE, designer

12 Anna MANAKHOVA from Kaliningrad Amber combine

13 Stanislaw STEPIEN with his wife Urszula from “Natalex“

14 Our unknown friend

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MAJOR TRADE FAIRS IN March 2015 – August 2015

XII International Baltic Jewellery Show Amber TripDate: 18–21 March, 2015Location: Vilnius, Lithuaniawww.ambertrip.com [email protected]

International Jewelry & Watch Show Abu Dhabi (JWS)Date: 5–9 May, 2015Location: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirateswww.jws.ae [email protected]

Amberif, International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and GemstonesDate: 25–28 March, 2015Venue: Exhibition Center Gdansk, Gdansk, Polandhttp://[email protected] [email protected]

Istanbul Jewelry Show MarchDate: 12–15 March, 2015Venue: CNR Expo Center, Istambul, Turkeywww.istanbuljewelryshow.com [email protected]

BASELWORLD 2015Date: 19–26 March, 2015Location: Basel, Switzerlandwww.baselworld.com [email protected]

Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe Date: 22–25 March, 2015Locationa: Messe Freiburg, Freiburg, [email protected]

OroarezzoDate: 9–12 May, 2015Location: Arezzo, Italywww.oroarezzo.it [email protected]

Aru-2015, 24 International Jewellery Fair Date: 9–12 April, 2015Location: Almaty, Kazakhstanwww.kazexpo.kz [email protected]

13th International Gold & Jewelry Exhibition 2015Date: 20–25 April, 2015Location: Mishref, Kuwaitwww.kif.net [email protected]

Jewelry Fair KoreaDate: 16–19 April, 2015Location: Seoul, Koreawww.jewelfair.com [email protected]

38th Mideast Watch & Jewellery Show 2015Date: 31 March– 4 April, 2015Location: Sharjah, United Arab Emirateswww.mideastjewellery.com [email protected]

IJK –19th International Jewellery Kobe 2015Date: 13–15 May, 2015Location: Tokyo, Japanwww.ijk-fair.jp [email protected]

Jewellery Expo Ukraine 2015Date: 14–17 May, 2015Location: Kiev, [email protected]

G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry ShowDate: 25–28 May, 2015Location: Las Vegas, USAwww.glda.com [email protected]

New Russian StyleDate: 27–31 May, 2015Location: Moscow, Russiawww.eng.rjexpert.ru [email protected]

JCK Las VegasDate: 29 May–01 June, 2015Venue: Las Vegas, USAwww.jckonline.com [email protected]

JUBINALE 2015Date: 11–13 June, 2015Venue: Krakow, Polandwww.jubinale.com [email protected]

Asia Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair-SeptemberDate: 16–19 September, 2015Venue: HKCEC, Hong [email protected]

September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 16–22 September, 2015www.Jewellerynetasia.com [email protected]

METS exhibition Date: 24–27 June, 2015www.mets.hk/en/[email protected]

Jovella 2015Date: 30 June-01 July, 2015Venue: Tel Aviv, Israelhttp://www.stier.co.il/Jovella/index_en.asp [email protected]

India International Jewellery ShowDate: 6–10 August, 2015Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, [email protected]

Norwegian Gold & UrDate: 27–30 August, 2015Venue: Lillestrøm Exhibition's, Norwaywww.gull-og-ur-messe.no [email protected]

Japan Jewellery Fair (JJF)Date: 26–28 August, 2015Venue: Tokyo, Japanwww.japanjewelleryfair.com [email protected]

AMBERMARTDate: 27–29 August, 2015Venue: Gdansk, Polandwww.ambermart.amberexpo.pl [email protected]

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High speed and high capacity hole making in the amber peace center automatically takes the part from the raw amber bin and puts it to technological cavity

positioning of the paft against the dill drilling

placing of the part to the ready parts bin capacity 168 holes per min

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High speed and high capacity hole making in the amber peace center

XIII INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW

“Amber Trip”MARCH, 2016

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baltic jewellery news (march 2015) no. 28

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