bandsaw table system

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Bandsaw Table SystemThe ultimate table system that does it all

DP-00232 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003

Looking to take your

bandsaw to a whole new

level of performance and

versatility? Here’s your

chance. After you build the

jigs, see our Downloadable

Plan DP-xxx “Put Your

Bandsaw to Work” for tips

on putting the system to

work in your shop.

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parts to lengthusing your mitergauge in one ofthese dual,smooth-glidingT-tracks.

CROSSCUT

from wideand narrowstock withthis bolt-onresaw fence,which letsyou lowerthe bladeguide to suit theworkpiece.

RESAWVENEERS

Fits most 14" and 16" bandsaws.

by removing onlythe slider—notthe table!

CHANGEBLADES

up to 32" in diameterwith this adjustableslider and pivot pin.

CUT CIRCLES

stock to width with this rock-solid, self-aligning fence.

RIP

19›x27"table safelysupportslargeworkpieces.

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Note: Because the bandsaw table system’s hardware comesfrom several suppliers, we’ve listed convenient kits in theBuying Guide on page 11 so you can purchase all of theitems from a single source, saving you time and money. Youwon’t find the hardware listed in the supplies section due tothe number of pieces and sources.

Start with the table1 Cut the table (A) to the size listed in the MaterialsList. On the table’s top, lay out the 1›×18ˇ" slot,where dimensioned on Drawing 1. Jigsaw the slot towithin „" of the lines.2 Chuck a top bearing pattern bit with a 1" cutterlength in your router. Align a straightedge with one ofthe slot’s long layout lines, and clamp it to the table (A).Next, rout along the edge of the slot. Repeat the

process to trim the slot’s end and other long edge.3 Refit your router with a ›" rabbeting bit. Rout a ›"rabbet ¤" deep along the slot’s edges on both faces ofthe table, where shown on Drawing 1, to receive the¤"-thick aluminum bars, where shown on Drawing 2 onthe next page. Square the rabbet corners with a chisel.Note: For safe operation when using the system’s jigs, ensurethat all of the aluminum parts fit flush with the table’s topsurface.4 Lay out the 1‡×2" enlarged throat area at the endof the slot, where dimensioned on Drawing 1. (Thisprovides clearance to facilitate blade changes.) Jigsawthe opening to shape.5 Using a dado blade in your tablesaw, cut the 1¸"dadoes fi" deep in the table’s top, where dimensioned,to receive the T-tracks shown on Drawing 2.

A

2‡"

12 "̌

9fl"

9" 9"1›" 19›"

18ˇ"

›" rabbet ¤" deepalong top and bottom face

1‡"

2"

1¸" dado fi" deep

1¸" dadofi" deep

1¸"

Material removedafter routing rabbets

27"

‰"

‰" ‰"

1‡ x 2" enlargedthroat area

1› x 18ˇ" slot

1¸"

1 TABLE

Using a fine-tip permanent marker, mark thebar exactly at the inside corners of the T-trackand at the table’s end, and crosscut to length.

¤ x fi x 36"aluminum bar

T-track inside corner

Notchedend

Rabbet

Tableinsert

A

AA

Take fourmeasurements on yourbandsaw, where shownon the drawing, right.The table will fit yoursaw provided yourmeasurements staywithin the limits shown.

Table slot

Blade

Bandsawframe

BANDSAW TABLE

10fi"minimum

4

9‹"maximum

38‡"

maximum

1

28‡"

maximum

(Top view)How to determine ifthe jig will fit yourbandsaw

3

4

1

2

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¸" shank hole, countersunkon bottom face with a Ï" pilot holefi" deep in part A

B

AB

D

F G

D

¤ x fi" aluminum barscrosscut to fit

T-tracks 9" long›" notches¤" deep

T-track 19›" long

‡ x ‡"aluminum angle,¤" thick, 27" long

#6 x ‡" F.H.wood screw

19›"

2"#8 x 2fi" F.H.wood screw

2"

27"

T-track27" long

#8 x 1" F.H.wood screw

¸" shank hole,countersunk

1¸" grooveÁ" deep, centered

‹" T-nut

Bandsaw table

‡" counterbore ¤" deepwith a ˇ" hole centered inside

27"

¤ x 1" aluminum bars16" long

#6 x fi" F.H.wood screw

17Œ"

1‹"

‡"

Ï" pilot hole 1‹" deep

#8 x 1‹" F.H. wood screw ›"

¸" shank hole, countersunk


fl"

E

E

Tableinsert

5⁄64" pilot hole›" deep

¸" shank hole

#6 x fi" F.H.wood screw

Ï" pilot hole¨" deep

¤" rabbets¤" deep‡"

2"

2¤"

1fi"

¤"

¤" aluminum plate

Slot centeredon the blade

¸" shank hole,countersunk on

bottom edge with aÏ" pilot hole

fi" deep in part A

#8 x 1fi" F.H.wood screws

into part A

C

#8 x 2" F.H. wood screwinto part C

9⁄64" hole, countersunk on outsideface with a 5⁄64" pilot hole

fl" deep in part B

ˇ" counterbore ‹" deep on bottomedge with a ¸" shank hole,

countersunk, centered inside and aÏ" pilot hole fi" deep in part A

2"2"

¤" aluminum clamp plate

‹-20 x 1‹" R.H. machine screwˇ" hole

2a TABLE INSERT

2 TABLE EXPLODED VIEW

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Cut the aluminum parts1 From a 48"-long piece of 1¸"-wide aluminum T-track, hacksaw a19›"-long piece and two 9"-longpieces to fit the exact length of thetable’s dadoes, where shown onDrawing 2. Cut the ›" notches ¤"deep in the inboard ends of the 9"-long pieces, where shown.Position the notched pieces in thedadoes.2 From a ¤×2×12" aluminum bar,cut four 2"-long pieces for the tableclamp plates and a 2¤"-long piecefor the table insert, where shownon Drawings 2 and 2a. Drill a ˇ"hole through each clamp platewhere dimensioned. Set the platesaside. Place the insert in the table.(You’ll cut the slot in the insertlater.)3 Position a ¤×fi×36" aluminumbar in the rabbet along one edgeof the slot on the top of the table(A), flush against the table insert,as shown in Photo A. Mark thebar for the exact lengths of thepieces, where shown on Drawing2, so they’ll fit flush with theinside corners of the T-track.Crosscut the pieces to length.Repeat this process on theopposite side of the slot.4 Drill countersunk shank holesthrough the four bars whereshown. Position the bars in therabbets. Using the holes as guides,drill pilot holes in the table.Remove the bars and table insert.5 From a ¤×1×36" aluminumbar, hacksaw two 16"-long piecesfor the rabbets on the bottom ofthe table. Position the pieces inthe rabbets, flush with the end ofthe table. Mark the locations forthe screw holes, making sure theydo not line up with any of thescrew holes for the top bars. Drillcountersunk shank holes throughthe bars. Place the bars inposition, and drill the pilot holes.Remove the bars.

6 From a 32"-long piece of T-track, cut a 27"-long piece forthe fence rail (F), shown onDrawing 2. From a 36"-long pieceof ‡×‡" aluminum angle ¤"thick, cut a 27"-long piece for theback fence rail. Set these piecesaside.7 Sand the table (A) to 180 grit.Abrade the bottom and sides ofthe three T-track pieces for thetable’s top with 40-grit sandpaper.Remove the dust. Apply five-minute epoxy along the bottomand sides of the table’s dadoes.Install and clamp the T-tracks inthe dadoes. Screw the aluminumbars in their rabbets. Set the tableaside while the epoxy cures.

Complete the table1 Cut the front and back rails (B)to the size listed. Position the railson the bottom of the table (A),where shown on Drawing 2. Drillmounting holes through thebottom edge of each rail. Glueand screw the rails to the table.2 Remove the round insertfrom your bandsaw table. Placethe plywood bandsaw tableassembly (A/B) on your bandsawtable. Align the plywood table’s¤" slot between its bottomaluminum bars with the bandsawtable’s slot. Locate the end of thealuminum bars in the throat area‰" from the blade, as shown inPhoto B. Insert a piece of ¤"hardboard between the tables’slots, as shown, to keep themaligned. On the plywood table’sbottom, scribe along thebandsaw table’s sides.3 Measure the thickness of yourbandsaw table. (Ours measured1‹".) Cut the side rail (C) andsplit side rails (D) to the lengthslisted and width equal to yourmeasured table thickness.Position the side rail (C) underthe plywood table, tight against

the side of the bandsaw table,where shown on Drawing 2.Make a mark across the bottomedge of the rail 1" in from thefront and back edges of thebandsaw table. These markslocate the centerlines for theclamp-plate screw holes. Repeatthe process to mark the split siderails (D), holding them tightagainst the front and back rails(B). Remove the plywood table.4 At the marked centerlines onthe rails (C, D), drill a ‡"counterbore ¤" deep with a ˇ"hole centered inside, whereshown. Install a ‹" T-nut in eachcounterbore.5 With the plywood tablebottom side up, place the siderail (C) and split side rails (D) inposition, aligning their insideedges with the scribe marks.Drill counterbored mountingholes through the rails, whereshown. Drive the screws. Use ascrew length appropriate for thewidth of your rails. Note that ifthe rails directly align with the T-tracks in the table’s top, you’llneed to attach them from the topby drilling countersunk shankholes through the T-tracks.6 Drill pilot and countersunkshank holes through the front andback rails (B) into the side rails (C,D), where shown on Drawing 2.Drive the screws.7 Reinstall and align theplywood table on the bandsawtable. Measure between the siderail (C) and split side rails (D) forthe length of the fillers (E).Measure for their widths, asshown in Photo C. (The widthsmay be different.) Cut the piecesto size. Place each filler inposition. Drill mounting holesthrough the fillers where shown.Drive the screws.

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With the plywood table correctly positioned on thebandsaw table, insert a ¤" hardboard scrap betweenthe tables’ aligned slots.

¤" hardboardinsertedbetweentables’ aligned slots

End ofaluminum bar‰" from blade

BB

Find the width for the fillers (E) by measuring thespace between the front and back rails (B) and thebandsaw table.

Bandsawtable Width of

filler

Back railBCC

2›"1‡"

fi"

16Ø"

‡"

9Å"

1›"

¤" rabbets¤" deep

‡" dado›" deep

fi" counterbore‹" deep

fi" counterbore‹" deep on bottom face with a˛" hole centered inside

#10-32 nut epoxiedin counterbore

‹" nut epoxiedin counterbore

‹" hexhead bolt1fi" long, cutper instructionsfor pivot pin

‹"

#10-32 x fl" setscrewfor locking slider

G

fl"¤"›"

‡"

¤ x ¤" notches¤"

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8 Cut the fence rail (F) to size.Cut a 1¸" groove Á" deepcentered along the front face ofthe rail, where shown, to receivethe 27"-long piece of T-track. Drillcountersunk shank holes throughthe T-track where shown. Placethe T-track in the rail’s groove.(The T-track sits „" proud of therail’s face.) Position the rail/trackassembly against the front rail (B)with the bottom edges flush.Using the holes in the T-track asguides, drill mounting holesthrough the fence rail and into thefront rail. Glue and screw theassembly to the front rail.9 Retrieve the aluminum-angleback fence rail. Drill countersunkshank holes, where shown.Position it on the back rail (B) fl"below the top of the plywoodtable, where dimensioned onDrawing 2. Drill pilot holes in theback rail. Screw it in place.10 Apply two coats of satinpolyurethane to the completedplywood table. When the finish

dries, fit the table on thebandsaw. Screw the aluminumclamp plates to the side rails (C,D) with ‹-20 roundheadmachine screws. You may needto use a different length screwthan shown to suit your rails’width.

Add the slider1 To enable your system to cutcircles, you need to make theslider (G). Cut the part to size.Chuck a rabbeting bit in yourtable-mounted router. Cut a ¤"rabbet ¤" deep along the topedges of the slider, where shownon Drawing 3.2 Insert the slider in theplywood table’s slot, flush with itsright end. Scribe along theinboard ends of the ¤×fi"aluminum bars to mark thelocation for the slider’s dado.Remove the slider. Cut the ‡"dado ›" deep. Bandsaw, with theslider resting on its edge, thenotches in the sides of the dado at

the bottom, where dimensionedon Drawing 3a.3 Mark the centerpoints for thefi" counterbores on the top andbottom of the slider, wheredimensioned on Drawing 3. Notethat the center of the topcounterbore and the front of thebandsaw blade must be the samedistance from the plywood table’sfront edge for proper circle-cutting operation. (You may needto adjust the counterbore’slocation from the dimensionshown to suit your saw.) Using afi" Forstner bit, drill thecounterbores ‹" deep at thecenterpoints. Then, drill a ˛"hole centered inside the bottomcounterbore.4 Epoxy a ‹" nut in the topcounterbore and a #10-32 nut inthe bottom counterbore. Whenthe epoxy cures, sand the slider.Apply two coats of finish.5 Thread a #10-32×fl" setscrew(for locking the slider) into the#10-32 nut. To make a pivot pin,

3 SLIDER3a NOTCH DETAIL

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Four-arm knob with‹" insert

K

J

‹" flat washer

ˇ" holes

2 x 1fl" hinge

#8 x ‡" F.H. wood screw

#8 x 2" F.H.wood screws #8 x 1‹" F.H.

wood screw

ˇ" hole, centered side-to-side and top-to-bottom

‹" flat washer

#8 x 2" F.H. wood screw

25ˇ"

L

M

‹" T-nut

ˇ" hole

¸" shank hole, countersunkwith a Ï" pilot hole 1‹" deep

2"

3"

‹" hexhead bolt2" long

T-slot nut

Ï" pilot hole 1‡" deep

#8 x 2fi" F.H.wood screw

R=fi"

H

¸" shank hole,countersunk with a

Ï" pilot hole1‹" deep

‹" flat washer

R=fi"


‹-20 x 3" F.H. machine screw

‡" counterbore¤" deep with aˇ" hole centered inside

N

Four-arm knob with ‹" insert

Four-arm knobs with‹" inserts

¸" shank hole, countersunkon bottom face with aÏ" pilot hole1‹" deep in part H

I

‹" T-nut

‹-20 x 2‹" F.H.machine screw

ˇ" hole

2 x 1fl"hinge

H

L

I

M

›"

„"

Four-arm knobwith ‹" insert

4 FENCE ASSEMBLY

4a HINGE DETAIL (Viewed from back of fence)

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mark a fi" length on a ‹"hexhead bolt 1fi" long thatincludes ‹" of thread and ‹" ofsmooth shank. Cut the lengthfrom the bolt, and file its endsand edges smooth. Thread it intothe ‹" nut. Now, insert theslider in the table.

Time for the fences1 Cut the fence (H) andstiffener (I) to size. Bandsaw andsand the fi" radii on the fence,where shown on Drawing 4, andthe stiffener, where shown onDrawing 5. Mark the angled endon the stiffener, wheredimensioned, and cut it toshape. Sand the parts smooth.Do not drill the holes in them yet.2 Position the stiffener againstthe fence, where shown onDrawing 4. Drill mounting holeswhere shown. Glue and screwthe parts together.3 Cut the fence plate (J) to size.Lay out and cut the plate’sangled sides, wheredimensioned on Drawing 5.4 Position the fence/stiffenerassembly (H/I) on the fenceplate (J), where shown onDrawing 4. Square the fence tothe plate’s back edge. Clamp theassembly together. Drill twomounting holes through thebottom of the plate into thefence where shown. Drive thescrews.5 Cut the clamp plate (K) tosize. Drill a ˇ" hole, centeredside-to-side and top-to-bottom,through the part. Set the fenceassembly (H/I/J) on the plywoodtable with the back edge of thefence plate (J) flush against the

table’s front edge. Position theclamp plate under the fenceplate, flush against the T-track inthe fence rail (F). Clamp theplates together. Drill mountingholes through the top of thestiffener (I) and fence platewhere shown. Glue and screwthe plates together. Insert a ‹"hexhead bolt 2" long with a T-slot nut through the hole in theclamp plate from the rear.Secure with a ‹" flat washer andfour-arm knob having a ‹" insertas shown.6 Cut the rear top and bottomclamps (L, M) to size. Placeclamp L on top of clamp M,aligning their back edges. Drill apilot and countersunk shankhole through the bottom clamp,where shown on Drawing 5.Glue and screw the partstogether. When the glue dries,mark the fi" radius on theassembly. Bandsaw and sand theradius to shape.7 Position the clamp assembly(L/M) at the rear of the fenceassembly, where shown onDrawing 4, aligning their backedges and fi" radii. Clamp theparts together. Screw a 2×1fl"hinge to the back of the fenceand clamp assembly, whereshown on Drawing 4a. Drill a‡" counterbore ¤" deep in thebottom clamp (M), wheredimensioned on Drawing 5.Now, drill a ˇ" hole centeredinside through the clampassembly and stiffener (I), whereshown on Drawings 4 and 5.Install a ‹" T-nut in thecounterbore.8 Make a four-arm knob with a ‹-

20×3" threaded stud for the rearclamp assembly. See the Shop Tip,page 10. Install the knob with a ‹"flat washer in the ˇ" hole in thestiffener (I), where shown.9 Cut the resaw fence (N) tosize. Lay out its contour, wheredimensioned on Drawing 5.Bandsaw the fence to shape,and sand it smooth. Drill theneeded holes, wheredimensioned. Position theresaw fence against the rightside of fence H, with theirfront ends and bottom edgesaligned. With a backer boardplaced against the left side ofthe fence to prevent tear-out,and using the centered holes inthe counterbores as guides,drill ˇ" holes through thefence. Apply two coats offinish to the fences.10 Install ‹" T-nuts in the resawfence’s counterbores. Epoxytwo ‹-20×2‹" flathead machinescrews in two four-arm knobs.Secure the resaw fence to thefence with the knobs and ‹"flat washers.11 Finally, place the aluminumtable insert in the table openingagainst the blade’s cutting edge.Referring to Drawing 2a, mark a¤" slot 1fi" long, centered onthe blade, on the plate. Hacksawor scrollsaw the slot, and installthe plate. Now, it’s time to putthis awesome system to work. ¿

Written by Owen DuvallProject design: Jeff MertzIllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine

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I

2"

fi" 25ˇ"

1fi"

STIFFENER¸" shank hole, countersunk

2"

ˇ" hole

1"

1"

R=fi"

Ï" pilot holefi" deep onbottom face

L

1‡"

2‡"

1"1›"

ˇ" hole

R=fi"REAR TOP CLAMP

J

3Å"2" ‰"

1›"

1fi"

1fi"

2"5"

¸" shank hole, countersunk

FENCE PLATE

Å"

2fl"

Location of K

2›"

14‹"6" 2fi" 4‹"

1fi"

4"

1fi"

‡" counterbore ¤" deepwith a ˇ" hole centered inside

9"2"

1‡"

5fi"3"

2fi" R=fi"

RESAW FENCE

N

‡" counterbore ¤" deep onbottom face with

a ˇ" holecentered

inside

1‡"M

2‡"

1"fi"›"

2"

R=fi"


bottom face

REARBOTTOMCLAMP

5 PARTS VIEW

Finding knobs with custom-lengththreaded studs can be a challenge.Here’s an easy way to make yourown. Thread a ‹-20 flatheadmachine screw of sufficient length(cut it if needed) completely intothe knob. Mark the threadsimmediately below the knob with apermanent marker. Back out thescrew until you see the mark.Apply five-minute epoxy to thethreads above the mark. Tightenthe epoxied screw in the knob,and wipe off any squeeze-out.

This stud’s for you

SHOP TIP

Applyepoxy to threadsabovemark.

Epoxy

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Fence assembly

†Dimensions determined by your bandsaw measurements. See the instructions.

Materials key: BB–Baltic birch plywood, M–maple.Supplies:: Five-minute epoxy.

Blades and bits: Dado-blade set, top bearing pattern bit with a 1"-long cutter, fi" Forstner bit, ¤" and ›" rabbetingbits.

Buying GuideHardware kit for ultimate bandsaw table. Contains all hardware (screws included) required for one table.Order kit no. UBT, $39.95 ppd., from Schlabaugh and Sons Woodworking. Call 800/346-9663, or go to www.schsons.com toorder.

Lumber kit for ultimate bandsaw table. Enough Baltic birch plywood for one table. Order kit no. LP-UBT,$39.95 ppd. See above for Web address and telephone number.

Master hardware kit for ultimate bandsaw table and accessories. Contains all hardware (screwsincluded) required for one table and all accessories. Order kit no. MAS-BAN, $74.95 ppd. Address and telephone above.

Master lumber kit for ultimate bandsaw table and accessories. Enough Baltic birch plywood for onetable and all accessories except the duplicating jig. Order kit no. LP-MAS-BAN, $49.95 ppd. Address and telephone above.

Materials List

A

E

H

I

E

‡ x 24 x 30" Baltic birch plywood

C

F

D

‡ x 24 x 30" Baltic birch plywood

KJ

L M

N

*Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List.

‡ x 1fi x 24" Maple

* G

B

Cutting Diagram

Bandsaw Table LWT Qty*.Matl.FINISHED SIZE

A table ‡" 19›" 27" BB 1 B front and back ‡" 2" 27" BB 2C side rail ‡" † 17Œ" BB 1D split side rails ‡" † 8Œ" BB 2E fillers ‡" † † BB 2F fence rail ‡" 2" 27" BB 1G slider fl" 1›" 16Ø" M 1

H fence ‡" 3" 25ˇ" BB 1

I stiffencer ‡" 2" 25ˇ" BB 1

J fence plate ‡" 3Å" 5" BB 1

K clamp plate ‡" 2" 5" BB 1

M rear top clamp ‡" 1›" 2‡" BB 1

N rear bottom clamp ‡" 2" 2‡" BB 1

O re-saw fence ‡" 5fi" 14‹" BB 1

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3 Accessories for theBandsaw Table System

Add even more versatility with these hardworking jigs.

Feather Board/Single-Point Fence

Tapering Jig

Duplicating Jig

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Start with the sledCut the sled (A) to size from Baltic birch plywood.Drill a ‡" hanging hole, where shown on Drawing 1.Bandsaw and sand fi" radii on two corners, and rout¤" chamfers along one side and both ends of both thesled’s faces and around the hanging hole, whereshown. Cut dadoes, where dimensioned, to accept theT-tracks.

Measure the distance from the side of yourbandsaw’s blade to the edge of the miter-gauge slotin which the jig’s miter guide bar will run. Cut a ‡"groove „" deep at this location in the sled’s bottomface. Resaw and plane the guide bar (B) to size, andshape its end, as shown on Drawing 1a. Clamp theguide bar in the groove. Drill pilot and countersunkshank holes through the guide bar and into the sled.Drive the screws.

Note: Do not glue the guide bar in place. By removingthe guide bar, you also can use the taper jig on yourtablesaw, using the saw’s fence to guide the jig.

Cut two pieces of aluminum T-track to the lengthshown. Mix quick-setting epoxy, and epoxy andclamp the tracks into the dadoes. To prevent thepossibility of the blade coming in contact with thetracks, position the tracks flush with the sled’schamfered edge.

Add the fenceCut the fence (C) to size. Mark the centers of the fourcounterbored holes for the hold-down clamps on thebottom of the fence. Drill the counterbores andholes. Mark and drill a ‹" hole for the first clampknob. Drill two ˇ" holes for the second clampknob’s slot. Form the slot, as shown in Photo A. Cutthe stop (D) to size, and glue and clamp it to thefence. Bandsaw and sand fi" radii, where shown, andthen rout ¤" chamfers along all the top and bottomends and edges.

Sand the sled and fence to 220 grit. Apply two coatsof satin polyurethane to the parts. Install thehardware.

TAPERING JIG

Draw lines tangent to the two ˇ" holes,and saw out the slot with a coping saw.

A

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¤" chamferalong alledges

Four-arm knob with ‹-20 insert

9Œ"A

5" 2"

10"

36"

8"

8"

1"

2fi"

‡"

8"3"

8›"

fi" counterbore‹" deep on thebottom face with a‹" holecentered inside

‹" flat washer

‹" knurled knob

‹" flat washerHold-down‹" flatwasher

‹" knob

fi"

T-tracks

‡" dado›" deep

R=fi"

‹" hole

‹" hexhead bolt2fi" long

‡"

‡" groove„" deep

C

‹" hexheadbolt

2‹" long‡" hanginghole

10"

10"

No radius

¤" chamfers ‹" hexheadbolt

2‹" long

‹" hexhead bolts2fi" long

Distance from bladeto miter-gauge slot

¤"

3"

1‹"1‹"

5"7‡"

ˇ" holes

‹" hole

R=fi"

R=fi"

R=fi"

D

‡"

›"

#6 x ‡" F.H. wood screw

9⁄64" hole, countersunkon bottom face

37"B

No chamfer

¤" chamfer

1"

fi"¤"

B

¤"

(Top view)

1a GUIDE BAR END

1 TAPERING JIG

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Cut the guide (E) to size. Bandsaw and sandthe 2" radius, where shown on Drawing 2, andand then file the blade notch. Cut the riser (F)from stock that is „" thicker than the partsyou will be sawing with the duplicating jig.

Note: You may want to make several duplicatingjigs to accommodate common stock thicknesses.

Glue and clamp the guide to the riser,keeping their ends and edges flush. Drill pilotand countersunk shank holes, and drive thescrews. Drill ›" holes to form the ends of theslots. Saw them out in the same mannershown in Photo A on page 2. Bandsaw andsand the fi" radii. Apply polyurethane. Installthe hardware.

DUPLICATING JIG‹" hexhead bolt 2" long

E7Œ"

1"

1fi"

›" notch¤" deep

›"

4"

fi"

›" holes

1fi"

1"

5"

fi"

4"

R=fi"


›" holes

#8 x ‡"F.H.woodscrew

R=2"

T-slot nut

Ï" pilot holefi" deep

„" thickerthan the stockto be cut

‹" flat washer

‹-20 knob

F

2 DUPLICATINGJIG

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Cut the base (G) to size, and plow the centereddado, where shown on Drawing 3. Drill ›"holes to form the ends of the slots, and saw outthe waste. Bandsaw and sand fi" radii on allfour corners. Cut the upright (H) to size. Rout apair of ›" round-overs on one end, forming afull round. Bandsaw and sand the fi" radius,where shown, then finish-sand the parts. Glueand clamp the upright into the base’s dado withthe feather board end flush with the base’sedge. Drill pilot and countersunk shank holesthrough the base into the upright, and drivethe screws.

Form the groove for the plastic-laminate feather,as shown in Photo B. Cut a piece of laminate tothe size shown, and sand the fi" radii. Insert thelaminate into the kerf, aligning its bottom edgewith the upright’s bottom edge. Drill pilot andcountersunk shank holes. Remove the laminateand apply two coats of satin polyurethane. Withthe finish dry, reinsert the laminate, drive thescrews, and install the hardware.¿

Written by Jan SvecProject designs: Jeff MertzIllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine

FEATHER BOARD/SINGLE-POINT FENCE

With the base (G) and upright (H) assembled,bandsaw a centered kerf for the plastic-laminate feather.

B

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H

G

9⁄64" shank hole ‹" deep,countersunk with a centeredÏ" pilot hole fi" deep

8‡"‡"

4"

1fi"


bottom face

7⁄64" pilot hole 1fl" deep

3 x 4fi"plastic laminate

„" kerf 1" deep

#6 x fi" F.H. wood screw

#8 x 2" F.H.wood screw

R=fi"

‡" dado ›" deep

5‹"

3‡"

‡"

R=fi" all corners

7fi"

5"

›" round-overs

R=fi"

›"holes›" slot

9⁄64" holes

T-slot nut

‹" hexhead bolt 2" long

‹" flat washer

‹-20 knob

3 FEATHER BOARD/SINGLE-POINT FENCE

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A sled ‡" 10" 36" BB 1 B guide bar ‡" ‡" 37" M 1C fence ‡" 2fi" 36" BB 1D stop ‡" 1" 3" M 1E guide ‡" 4" † BB 2E guide ‹" 4" 7Œ" H 1F riser † 4" 5" M 1

G base ‡" 5‹" 8‡" BB 1

H upright ‡" 5" 7fi" BB 1

Feather Board/Single-Point Fence

†Thickness varies. See the instructions.

Materials key : BB–Baltic birch plywood, M–maple, H–tempered hardboard.Supplies:: Quick-setting epoxy.

Blades and bits: Stack dado set, chamfer and ›" round-over router bits.

Buying GuideHardware kits. Kits contain all the hardware shown on Drawings 1, 2, and 3, including theplastic laminate for the feather board. Tapering jig hardware kit no. BTJ, $18.95 ppd.; duplicatingjig hardware kit no. DUP, $13.95 ppd.; feather board/single-point fence hardware kit no. FB-SPF,$15.95 ppd. Schlabaugh & Sons Woodworking, 720 14th Street, Kalona, IA 52247. Call 800/346-9663.

Hardware plus Lumber kits. Kits contain all the hardware shown on Drawings 1 and 3,including the plastic laminate for the feather board, plus enough Baltic birch plywood and maplelumber to build the tapering jig and the feather board/single-point fence. Tapering jig hardware pluslumber kit no. LP-BTJ, $24.95 ppd.; feather board/single-point fence hardware plus lumber kit no.LP-FB-SPF, $16.95 ppd. See the address and telephone number listed above.

Materials ListFINISHED SIZE

Duplicating Jig

Tapering Jig T W L

Matl. Qty*.

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Put Your Bandsaw Systemto Work

The bandsaw table and fence system detailed in, Downloadable Plan DP-xxx,makes your bandsaw super versatile. But you’ll unlock its full potential if youbuild the accessories found on in Downloadable Plan DP-xxx. Here’s a guideto getting the most from the system and its accessories.

Feather board/single-pointresaw fence

Feather board end

Bolt-onresaw fence

Fence

Slice veneers accurately and easily

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Slice veneers accurately and easily (see photo onpage 20)To resaw a thin slice (¤" or less) from any board,you need rock-solid support on both sides of yourstock to hold it in position vertically. This system’sbolt-on resaw fence and feather board deliver,especially when you’re working with stock morethan about 5" wide, such as you’d use whencreating your own veneer. First, position the fence and lock it down with thefront and rear knobs (see photo on page 1). Slidethe feather board end of the feather board/single-point resaw fence into the T-slot to support theoutside face of the stock. Now lock in the featherboard so the workpiece contacts the laminate justin front of the blade, and flexes the laminate toprovide support without binding. Make sure tocrank up the blade tension to keep the blade taut,and push the workpiece slowly as you cut.

Resaw confidently (see photo, below left)When resawing thicker slabs (‹" or greater), orwhen working with narrow stock, vertical supportisn’t as important as keeping the workpiecerunning true. Bandsaw blades sometimes twist

slightly as you push the workpiece, meaning you’ll have to angle the workpiece slightly tocompensate for this “drift.” You can do this byguiding your stock against the bullnose end of thefeather board/single-point resaw fence. Align the bullnose end with the blade’s teeth,leaving a gap equal to the thickness of the pieceyou wish to cut. Tighten the knobs to lock thefence in the T-slot. Mark a layout line on the topedge of your workpiece, and push the piecethrough the cut while pressing one face againstthe bullnose. Note that the standard fence doesnot get used in this resawing technique. (To learnmore about resawing successfully, see WOOD®

Magazine issue 147.)

Rip stock cleanly with this standard fence (seephoto, below right) The standard fence provides sturdy support forripping boards to width, or other preciseoperations, such as cutting tenons. Just loosen thefront and rear locking knobs, slide the fence intoplace, then tighten the front knob. This locks thefence and automatically aligns it with the blade.Then lock the rear knob for surefooted cuts.

Feather board/single-pointresaw fence

Single-point end

Stopblock

Resaw confidently Rip stock cleanly with this standard fence

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Duplicate patterns easily (see photo, belowleft)Need to cut multiple curved pieces to the

exact same size and shape? This duplicatingjig is just the ticket, with its hardboard guidethat’s notched to fit snugly around the blade.Attach a hardboard pattern, cut in the exactshape you require, to your workpiece usingdouble-faced tape. Then just feed theworkpiece into the blade with the patternriding against the duplicating jig. Adjust theposition of the jig to control how close theblade cuts to the pattern. You can then sandright up to the line using a drum sander, orrout to the pattern using a flush-trimming bit.

Cut circles using this handy accessory (seephoto, below right)This system feature takes the hassle out ofcutting circles from 6" to 32" in diameter,thanks to its adjustable slider and pivot pin.To use the circle cutter, start by cutting asquare workpiece about „" larger than thediameter of the circle you want to create.Carefully mark the exact center of thesquare, on the underside, by placing astraightedge from corner to corner in eachdirection. Then drill a ‹"-diameter hole ‹"deep.Next, loosen the setscrew that locks theslider in place, pull the slider to position thepivot pin, and retighten the setscrew. Nowlower your workpiece onto the pivot pin soone edge is against the blade, and turn on thesaw. Rotate the workpiece to clip off thecorners and create a perfect circle.

Slider

Setscrew

Pivot pin

Cut circles using this handy accessory

Duplicate patterns easily

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Taper with this adjustable jig (seephoto below)You might not think of using thebandsaw for cutting tapers, but thistapering jig makes the process soeffortless that you’ll forget abouttapering on the tablesaw. The jig holdsyour workpiece securely in place, andrides smoothly on a guide bar thatslides in one of the table’s T-trackslots.To precisely set the cutting angle, firstlay out the taper on your workpiece.Align those marks with the edge of thetapering jig’s sled, then slide the fenceagainst the workpiece, and tighten thetwo knobs that secure it to the sled.Secure the clamps to hold theworkpiece in place.

Now, with your leg blank in position,lower the jig’s guide bar into the right-hand T-slot, well ahead of the blade.Then simply slide the jig forward tocut the waste away. Rotate yourworkpiece for the second taper, andcut again. If you need to taper foursides of a part, such as a table leg, tapethe cutoffs from your first two tapersback to your workpiece as shims. Nowreadjust the fence as necessary to alignyour layout marks for cuts three andfour, and make the cuts.You’ll also find this jig handy forputting a straight edge on rough-cutstock.

SledFence

Guide bar

SledFence

Sled edge

Hold-down

Taper with this adjustable jig

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Crosscut Small Parts to Size(see photo below)A bandsaw is the perfect toolfor safely crosscutting smallparts to size. The table systemmakes the process even easierby offering two slots—thealuminum T-tracks—for yourmiter gauge to slide in.

Written by David Stone

Crosscut small parts to size

It’s plain to see that this bandsaw table systemoffers gobs of features you just can’t get witha bare-bones stock saw. In addition to all ofthose great accessories, there’s one importantfeature that’s a little harder to see: You canchange blades without removing the table!Just pop the blade insert out of the table andremove the slider. This exposes the slot in thestock bandsaw table, allowing you to easilyslip blades in and out in normal fashion. ¿

Change blades in no time

bandsaw table system

Documents

jeff mertz illustrations

slice veneers accurately

bbbaltic birch plywood

baltic birch plywood

downloadable plan dp

enlarged throat area

feather board single

rip stock cleanly