barcelona metropolitan summer tourist guide 2013

Your Summer Guide to Barcelona

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4-5. Contents PDF.indd 2 6/5/13 12:04:27 PM

6 What’s new

8 City season

12 A day in the city

16 Food & Drink

28 Culture

_Music

_Festivals

_Art

_Traditions

40 Maps

46 Metro map

48 Need to know

50 Little Black Book

contents

Ciutat 7 2-4, 08002 Barcelona Tel. 93 451 4486Enquiries: [email protected]: [email protected],000 copies of this guide are distributed every quarter in Barcelona's four- and five-star hotels.

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Cover photo by Michaela Xydi

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new in town

Reserva Ibérica Opened in May, this is the latest in a line of high-end jamón iberico outlets to set up shop in Barcelona. And no wonder; the dark red slivers of cured ham are arguably one of Spain’s greatest (and most delicous) creations. Aragó 242. www.reservaiberica.com

La Parada Pick up some authentic souvenirs from this recently-inaugurated mar-ket stall in the neighbourhood of Gràcia. In amongst the fruit, meat and cheeses, here you’ll find postcards, books and photographs. Stalls 14 and 15, L’Abaceria Market, Travessera de Gràcia 186. www.laparada.org

Rasoterra Vegetarians sometimes struggle to find good places to eat in carnivore-friendly Barcelona. However, this is slowly changing thanks to places like this new bistro set in the city’s Gothic quarter. Palau 5.

Photo by Michaela Xydi

Photo by Michaela Xydi

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Dónde? On? Where? Find the location of these places with

our maps on pages 40-43

Carolina Blue If you’re looking for a unique gift or something colourful to beautify your home, this shop, run by mother and daughter team Maria Louisa and Carolina, has an assortment that includes haberdashery and furniture. The shop offers an eclectic mix of decorative objects, both new and recycled, plus handmade one-of-a-kind pieces. Doctor Dou 11.

Ojalá In the heart of El Gòtic, designer Paloma del Pozo brings her designs to Barcelona in this new shop. The beautiful outfits on sale are original works of art, featuring finely detailed craftsmanship and vivid colours. Fittingly, Del Pozo’s clothing has been exhibited not only on the runway but also in the Museo Evaristo Valle in Gijón. Ciutat 14. www.ojala.es

La Parada Pick up some authentic souvenirs from this recently-inaugurated mar-ket stall in the neighbourhood of Gràcia. In amongst the fruit, meat and cheeses, here you’ll find postcards, books and photographs. Stalls 14 and 15, L’Abaceria Market, Travessera de Gràcia 186. www.laparada.org

Rasoterra Vegetarians sometimes struggle to find good places to eat in carnivore-friendly Barcelona. However, this is slowly changing thanks to places like this new bistro set in the city’s Gothic quarter. Palau 5.

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In the Sixties, The Lovin’ Spoon-ful had a song that could easily have been inspired by the humid, throb-

bing-hot days of a Barcelona summer. After a stanza and a half description of oppressive heat, the relief of the re-frain comes in the form of night when the city becomes ‘Cool town’. What could better describe a July or August evening in this city, when the sweat of the day is showered away and the lo-cals come out to sit for hours with their beers in a plaça? Under an umbrel-la of the evening sky, people go about the business of socialising until the wee hours of the morning.As much as I look forward to summer, after the first heat wave hits, my im-pulse is to close the shutters, turn up the air-conditioning and spend the after-noon in the kitchen eating Oreo cook-ies and drinking iced-tea, waiting for the sun to go down. In summers past, I have spent long afternoons in climate controlled cafés or riding the bus to es-cape the heat, or keeping as still as a liz-ard until things cooled down.

But once the heat of the day has sub-sided, there are many places and events to enjoy here. I have often gone out for a long, late supper in the Born then to stroll around the neighbourhood with the crowds past midnight, spending an hour or too with a loved one enjoying a bottle of wine alongside the bell towers of Santa Maria del Mar. Then I might poke around the bars that line the Pas-seig del Born and maybe head over to the Magic Club for a little old-fash-ioned rock ‘n’ roll experience.

When I first moved to Barcelona, only the intrepid wandered the streets of the Born or the Raval at night, preferring to stay close to La Rambla. Since the astounding renovations of the down-town area in the past 20 years, you can spend an evening hopping from mu-sic club to club (try the Harlem, for in-stance, an institution in the area). In the area alongside the MACBA museum, there is a comfortable terrace or two to have a meal and a drink and may-be find some live entertainment. The nearby Filmoteca has a brilliant offer of

A few ideas for a no-sweat summer in the city. By Lynn Baiori.

Keep coolcity season

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classics in their library, with screenings often beginning late in the afternoon and going on until midnight.

Without the afternoon sun beating down on your head, an open-air ride on the top deck of a city tour bus is more palatable, with monuments like the Sagrada Família, the Casa Batl-ló and the city fountains lit up and ac-cented against the evening darkness. For outdoor dining, there are numer-ous opportunities to find a comfortable terrace along the tree-lined pavement of Enric Granados. Up on Montjuïc, there’s a lovely gar-den near the Grec theatre that is over-looked by a restaurant. Summer brings the return of the Grec festival, which brings special performances of music, dance and theatre to numerous ven-ues throughout the city. One of my most idyllic memories of a summer night was taking my parents years ago to see a concert of Spanish guitar mu-sic at the Grec theatre, surrounded by the aromatic garden and tall, Mediter-ranean pines.


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city season

Of course, you don’t want to hide away in your hotel room like a vampire waiting for the sun to go down. There are cool places to visit around town even when the temperature runs high. If you are here between August 15th and 21st, you are just in time for the Festa Major de Gràcia, one of Barce-lona’s most colourful street parties (see page 38 for details). The beaches of Barceloneta fill up in summer, although honestly, Sitges or the beaches up the coast are much more enticing and just a short train ride away. To cool down in the city, one of my favourite swimming holes is the Piscina Picornell, the Olym-pic pool on Montjuïc. With changing rooms, lounge chairs, large lanes for swimming and a cafeteria overlook-ing the pool, it’s a comfortable, con-venient and inexpensive way to escape the heat. If you’re there at sundown, each Monday, Wednesday and Friday from June 30th to August 7th, you can enjoy live music at the castle, begin-ning at 8.45pm, followed by an out-door movie projected on a big screen at 10pm, as part of a summer pro-gramme called Sala Montjuïc. Shady parks are a good place to take a break from a day of schlepping around town. Within Parc Ciutadella sits Bar-celona Zoo, a shady oasis where you

can wander slowly like a giraffe on the plains while contemplating actual gi-raffes in their city habitat. I’ve rarely seen a crowd there on a summer day and the kids always love the surreal-istic escape from the surrounding city, which seems a continent away once you pay the admission (a bit steep but it helps support the animals and the teaching centre, so you can think of it as a non-deductible, charitable do-nation). Another kids’ favourite spot and a good place to escape the heat of the day is Barcelona Aquarium. Glide along the 80-metre long underwater tunnel through the Oceanarium. Al-so an important teaching centre, Bar-celona Aquarium is a reference point for the study of Mediterranean marine biology. Just outside the Aquarium is a shopping centre with restaurants over-looking the sea, while across the port are more restaurants and bars where you can have a drink dock-side. After spending a cool day around town, slip into your dancing shoes, head to one of the city’s late-night clubs and swing until the sun climbs back over the horizon.

Lynn Baiori is editor of Barcelona Metropolitan, the city’s magazine in English.


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A DAY IN THECITY AROUND THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GRÀCIA

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10:00 Shop like a native and stroll up Gran de Gràcia (left), the main ave-nue in the area, where you are sure to find something new for your ward-robe (2).

11:15 Turning onto Carrer de les Carolines you will find the Casa Vi-cens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site (main image). Designed by An-toni Gaudí, it is considered one of his first important works. The façade, done in the Moorish style and deco-rated in ceramic tile and yellow zin-nias, is reminiscent of Gaudí’s ‘Capri-cho’, constructed at the same time in Comillas (3).

12:00 Head back down Gran de Gràcia, turning left at the metro station onto Astúries. On this pedestirianised street, you’ll encounter many bo-tique shops. Olokuti sells an assortment of fair trade items and has a secret garden out back (left) (4).

13:30 Lunch in one of Gràcia’s numerous cafés. For instance, Salambó on Torrijos has a great range of dishes. Alternatively, Veg World on Bruniquer does a nice, vegetarian Indian. Or try the Abacería, Grácia’s central market, on Travessera de Gràcia. If you get there before 2pm, you can stay on inside after the stalls close and partake of the local fare at one of the market bars (5, 6, 7).

The numbers in pink refer to location points on the map on page 15

9:00 Breakfast at Anglo-Italian café Bue-nas Migas (corner of Passeig de Gràcia and Bonavista). Prepare for your day with one of their cornettos (Italian-style croissant) or toast with traditional English jam (1).

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17:00 After a long, leisurely lunch take a trip up to Parc Güell. Hop on the number 24 bus for a short ride to this most emblematic Gaudí pil-grimage site (8; bus stop for nº. 24).

19:00 Back in Gràcia, have a pre-supper drink in one of the neigh-bourhood’s many lively squares, such as Plaça de la Virreina or Plaça de la Revolució (9, 10).

21:00 Next to Plaça de John Len-non, supper at Famen (above), a pop-ular local resturant for its consistently great food. Reservations recommend-ed as the place fills as soon as the doors open (11).

23:00 End the day at Café Godot (Sant Domènec 17, right), which of-fers a fine selection of cocktails (12).


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food & drink

Here the service is swift and sure-footed, the food solid and unpretentious. I

had chicken and chips. Seriously. It’s what I fancied and take note, because poultry is what Chez Cocó is all about. Behold the chickens’ glistening and oozing juiciness as they turn on the spit at the entrance, with a backdrop of copper pans hanging just so, grey-blue Modernisme tiles on the floors, chandeliers glittering over-head and delightful train carriage banquettes. It is brilliant for a date, even better with an old mucker to gossip and giggle with long into the night. You can get a whole roasted Lumagorri or Bresse chicken, or

a more local Dels Casals for the table (€55-€85 with sides) and you might want to if you’re a ta-ble of four to share it. Or, you can do what I did and have the pollo tomatero (€15), which comes as a whole, baby roast chicken (a picantón), a copper pan full of the crunchiest chips and a crisp green salad. Your large, oval plate will be piping hot as it’s set before you alongside a little jug of lemony chicken juices. You probably won’t be able to eat it all unless you’re very greedy, but you’ll give it a real go because it tastes that good.

Diagonal 465 (Eixample). Tel. 93 444 9822. www.chezcoco.es

Read the full review at barcelona-metropolitan.com

Reviewed: Chez Cocó

by Tara Stevens, the food expert for Barcelona Metropolitan. She reviews restaurants, writes about local gas-tronomy and blogs about all things gourmet. For more Barcelona food tips, follow her on Twitter: @taralstevens

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Satan’s Coffee Corner is run by local barista Marcos, who serves coffee off a tiny counter-top that occupies one small corner of a shop selling everything from groovy wrapping paper to vin-tage shirts. He offers one different blend every month (made the way you like it) and the only seating is on a couple of stools outside—this coffee is mainly made to go and it’s a winner. Peu de la Creu 25.A few blocks away, Caravelle is a new venture by Australian chef Zim Sutton and his wife Poppy Da Costa who ran a gastro pub in London before moving here a few months ago. If the space doesn’t quite capture the cosy, lived-in spirit of your classic British pub—the minimal décor is more Copen-hagen than Camden—the food is bang-on: solid, unpretentious

yet interesting platefuls of daily changing specials like succulent homemade pork and fennel sau-sages on beans. Sunday brunch meanwhile has become a must for the cool kids in town. Pintor Fortuny 31.And so to Suculent in the increas-ingly hip Rambla del Raval, where chefs Aramando Anta, Javier Co-toruelo and Carles Abellán have created this retro foodie hang-out. The old bodega (wine shop) has been left largely as it was, keep-ing the tatty Catalan tiles and adding a few chunky wooden tables to match a menu of care-fully sourced Spanish products such as Maldonado jamones (ham) and Can Rovira charcu-terie. It’s already gained a loyal following so booking is essential. Rambla de Raval 43.

Three new places in Raval

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93 430 0003 Avinguda de Sarrià, 17 (between Londres y París) www.restaurantargentina.es93 430 0003nguda de Sarrià 17 (between Londres y París) www restaurantargentina es

NEBRASKA - ARGENTINA - WAGYU

93 430 0003

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€22 for evening meal with wine!

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93 430 0003 Avinguda de Sarrià, 17 (between Londres y París) www.restaurantargentina.es93 430 0003nguda de Sarrià 17 (between Londres y París) www restaurantargentina es

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One of my favourite things is Habas a la catalana and they do them ex-

tremely well here: baby broad beans retaining just the shadow of a bite, silky blood sausage oozing naughtiness, robust chunks of pork belly and ribs, all swimming around together in a broth of unlikely light-ness freshened with a sprig of mint. Bravo. I had it with a glass of Bot (Terra Alta—only 12.5 percent, I’m happy to report, since my new obsession is finding Spanish wine that doesn’t clobber the hell out of you on first sip), which was very drinkable. They filled it up without my even asking, just in time for a second course of monkfish the size of my

fist on a just-big-enough mound of black rice. It was topped with rib-bons of barely seared squid, reeked of garlic—in a good way—and was so tasty I was tempted to call over the lone steak-eater ahead of me and make him try some.Then I order the borracho, which is a cake soaked in dangerous amounts of liquor and served with a scoop of the most chocolately ice cream imaginable. It’s wonderful, just the thing for finishing the last of the Bot while kissing my bikini bod goodbye. Thankfully, no-one pays me to be thin!

Sant Pau 9-11. Tel. 93 550 0000. www.hotelespanya.com

Fonda Espanya

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Despite the all white with mirrored panels décor that makes you feel like you’re

about to go into surgery (ask for the table in the right hand corner by the water feature, where you get some reprieve from it all), the food here is very, very good. José Carlos Capel, the food critic for El País, declared theirs the best croquettes in Spain not so long ago. I’m afraid I don’t agree with José—they are good, but not as good as the squid ink ones at Lolita’s—but what I will say is that it’s rare to come across a tasting menu where each of the dishes is so flawless and the wine pairing actually

works, but doesn’t dominate. So it is that one blustery Saturday afternoon I pitch up with a friend in search of sustenance and the €45 executive menu, because there are times in this life when you need a treat. The Mirror is managed by chef Paco Pérez and he’s focused on contemporary seafood here with lots of surprising little details that make for serious eating that is also fun.

Hotel Mirror, Còrsega 255.Tel. 93 202 8685. www.themirrorbarcelona.com Find the full reviews at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

The Mirror


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Pakta—the latest restaurant from Albert Adrià celebrates Nikkei, the Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine

I would probably do pretty much anything for another bowl of Pakta’s sea bass ceviche (dish

made of raw fish) in a fruity kum-quat leche de tigre (citrus-based marinade for ceviche) that packed just enough punch to wake up the tastebuds for the rest of the cours-es. Eel nigiri was much like any other—not so Iberian pork belly nigiri. I’m pretty sure it’s the naugh-tiest piece of sushi I’ve ever eaten for unbridled melting fattiness. Suckling pig gyoza? Richly juicy, badly decadent. A chunk of black cod in black garlic and miso sauce with a pickled daikon flower? A wicked way to brighten a slacken-ing palate en route to Iberian pork skewers with grilled pineapple and,

finally, a soothing bowl of ají de gallina (spiced stewed chicken).For dessert, little puffs of mochi with strawberries and vanilla cream were so wonderful we begged for them to give us another serving. Meringues flecked in gold leaf to dip in dulce de leche ice cream blasted with Pisco were inspired, sweet potato picarones (donuts) with dried fig honey and cinnamon tasted of something ancient and mysterious, while a slab of white chocolate printed with edible Japanese cartoons is the cutest ending to dinner I can think of. Lleida 5. www.patka.es (for reservations). Tasting menu, €95


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ADVERTISING FEATURE

Pakta—the latest restaurant from Albert Adrià celebrates Nikkei, the Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine


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cultureconcerts

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July 25thMark Knopfl erPoble Espanyol. From €55His last tour with Bob Dylan didn’t make it to the Catalan capital, but the guitar hero is now coming back to Barcelona touring his seventh solo album Privateering.

July 26thElvis Costello and the ImpostersPoble Espanyol. From €55After four decades in the business, Costello (above) is still recording new material with various collaborators. Th e English singer-songwriter per-forms here after an eight-year absence.

September 19thEros RamazzottiPalau Sant Jordi. From €40Th e suave Italian singer returns once more to Barcelona as part of a major European tour that will next head to the States. Ramazzotti is promoting his recent album Noi (We), released in November last year.

June 24thDef LeppardPavelló Olímpic Badalona. From €63It’s been 17 years since Def Leppard last rocked Barcelona. Th is time, the Sheffi eld band is accompanied by fel-low Brits, Whitesnake, and they will be bringin’ on the heartbreak with their monster ballads.

June 27thSmashing PumpkinsRazzmatazz. From €25Th e Chicago alternative rockers come to Barcelona as part of their latest world tour. Th ey will be perform-ing various hits from their latest al-bum Oceania, as well as some crowd Oceania, as well as some crowd Oceaniafavourites.

July 10thTh e LumineersRazzmatazz. From €30Th is Denver-based folk band (pic-tured left), who were nominated for a Grammy this year, present their eponymous album. You doubtless know their hit song, ‘Ho Hey’, fea-tured in a commercial for Bing and various tv shows.


June 25thWidmann and MelinkovPalau de la Música. From €20German violinist Carolin Widmann performs with Russian pianist Al-exander Melnikov. Compositions by Schubert, Bach and Bartók are on the agenda.

June 27th and 30thRienziGran Teatre del Liceu. From €9.50Wagner’s early tragic opera revolves around the historical figure of Cola di Rienzo, whose plans to rebuild Rome are quashed by the scheming upper classes and the petty populace.

July 25th to 28thBACHelona, Bach Music Festival Various venues. Free, €10 and €22The first installment of the Barce-lona-based festival dedicated to the classical musical maestro. There will be a host of activities and concerts centred on Bach’s life and work.

June 17thPerianes and MoonwindsAuditori de Barcelona. From €31Spanish pianist Javier Perianes and the international group Moonwinds (cur-rently in residence at the Auditori) perform compositions by Beethoven, KrejČí, Puolenc and Bal y Gay.

June 19thFrench National Orchestra and Daniele GattiAuditori de Barcelona. From €21 Under the conductor’s baton of Gat-ti, the orchestra performs fragments from works by Wagner and Verdi.

June 21st to July 7th Lucio SillaGran Teatre del Liceu. From €11A chance to experience Mozart’s ear-ly work. He composed Lucio Sil-la (above) when he was just 16. Set in Rome in the second century CE, the plot revolves around forbidden love and political intrigue.

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This fantastic restaurant and lounge is located at the top of the Rambla de Raval just

a short walk from the MACBA art gallery. Whether you’re looking for lunch or dinner, they provide a wide range of Spanish dishes and tapas that are made with tradi-tional Mediterranean recipes, using fresh and exciting ingredients. If you prefer to eat ‘al fresco’, they have a great terrace situated on the Rambla de Raval so you can relax and watch the world go by. Inside they have a fresh new vibe making it a great place to meet up with friends for cocktails. It also has private rooms available for groups and couples. The friendly and attentive service is what really makes this restau-rant stand out. It is open every day, with the kitchen open till midnight and the cocktail lounge until 3am. www.facebook.com/restaurante-barraval

104 Carrer Hospital 08001 BarcelonaTel. 93 329 8277

Three-course menu of the day at an incredible €10.50

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June 20th to July 8thFestival Jardins del Palau Reial de Pedrableswww.festivalpedralbes.comThe gorgeous palace gardens set a tranquil backdrop for this festival, a se-ries of concerts from international mu-sicians including pouting pop singer Lana Del Rey, Antony and the John-sons, Broadway sensation Josep Carre-ras, Earth Wind and Fire, and Super-tramp’s Roger Hodgson

JulyGrec Festival www.grec.bcn.catThis is an international theatre, dance,

music and circus festival held each year in Barcelona. It aims to not only feature top Catalan artists and com-panies, but also to stage quality per-formances from Spain and around the world.

July 26th to August 31stMas i Mas Festivalwww.masimas.comThis annual event takes over most of Barcelona’s main music venues in the summer, offering more than 200 jazz, rock, flamenco, classical and electron-ic shows over five weeks. French sing-er Imany (above) opens proceedings at the Palau de la Música.

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July 5th and 6thFestival Cruïllawww.cruillabcn.comGet ready to celebrate the intersec-tion of diverse music styles with in-ternational artists such as Snoop Dogg, Suede (left), James Morris-son, Wyclef Jean, Cat Power and Ru-fus Wainwright; and national bands Standstill, Pau Vallvé and The Sui-cide of Western Culture.


Bolaño Archive CCCBwww.cccb.orgThis exhibition explores the creative universe of author Robert Bolaño, whose novels have impacted the lit-erary landscape of the 21st century. Visitors to this exhibition are treat-ed as detectives, presented with tests and clues, and will be able to view unpublished material from the ar-chives of the Robert Bolaño estate. The exhibit is layed out like a kalei-doscope—a prominent metaphor in Bolaño’s writing. Until June 30th.

Tàpies. From the InsideMuseu Nacional d’Art de Catalunyawww.mnac.cat This retrospective presents around 100 works from the artist’s stu-

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dio and the collection of the Tàpies Foundation, with pieces dating from the Forties up to his final works. Tàpies’s experimentation with ma-terials, geometry, colours, footprints and signs earned him an interna-tional reputation. June 21st to No-vember 3rd.

Japonismo CaixaForumwww.fundacio.lacaixa.esThe fascination with the Japanese aesthetic began in Spain in the 1870s, influencing some of the grand mas-ters of Modernism and impacting works by artists as diverse as Mar-ià Fortuny, Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró. Witness Catalunya’s extensive, but relatively unknown, body of work inspired by Japanese art (main im-age). June 14th to September 15th.

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The Battle of Tetuan: From the Trenches to the MuseumMuseu Nacional d’Art de Catalunyawww.mnac.catThis exhibition is focused on the his-tory and artistic development of The Battle of Tetuan, one of the most fa-mous works by Marià Fortuny. Until September 15th.

Goya and his successors: Los Dis-parates, TodayMuseu Diocesà de Barcelona The Spanish genius bucked the icon-ographic trend that dominated his age with Los Disparates (The Fol-

lies). This exhibition places the 12 works alongside pieces by contempo-rary artists influenced by Goya’s dark, nightmarish visions and absurd im-agery. Until September 15th.

Nits d’EstiuCaixaForumwww.fundacio.lacaixa.es Every summer, CaixaForum offers a host of open air concerts and activi-ties alongside its permanent and tem-porary exhibitions, during its ‘Sum-mer Nights’ season. Enjoy the art and music every Wednesday from 8pm to midnight in July and August.

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Chema Madoz. Ars combinatoriaaLa Pedrerawww.lapedrera.comThis free exhibit showcases one of the leading figures in Spanish contemporary photography. Madoz’s prints are stunning in their simplicity and have been described as ‘visual poetry’. Until July 28th.

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lies). This exhibition places the 12 works alongside pieces by contempo-rary artists influenced by Goya’s dark, nightmarish visions and absurd im-agery. Until September 15th.

Nits d’EstiuCaixaForumwww.fundacio.lacaixa.es Every summer, CaixaForum offers a host of open air concerts and activi-ties alongside its permanent and tem-porary exhibitions, during its ‘Sum-mer Nights’ season. Enjoy the art and music every Wednesday from 8pm to midnight in July and August.

Chema Madoz. Ars combinatoriaaLa Pedrerawww.lapedrera.comThis free exhibit showcases one of the leading figures in Spanish contemporary photography. Madoz’s prints are stunning in their simplicity and have been described as ‘visual poetry’. Until July 28th.

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38

traDitions

Sant JoanJune 23rd The Nit de Sant Joan, also known as Nit del Foc (Night of Fire), is Catalunya’s celebration of the sum-mer solstice. This popular festivity is celebrated on the eve of the feast-day of Sant Joan (Saint John) and it is famous for the whizzing and banging of fireworks, the smell of gunpowder and the large bonfires that are set up on many beaches. Its origins come from a pagan rite to purify one’s soul and it used to be seen by Christians as a festival influenced by the devil. If you want to celebrate Sant Joan properly, head to a nearby bakery and ask for a Coca de Sant Joan (special cake cooked with dried fruit), then turn to the closest fireworks shop to buy firecrackers. However, if you’re still not feeling the devilish fun of the festivity, then nothing will beat a night sea swim to get you purified.

Festa Major de GràciaAugust 15th to 21st The neighbourhood of Gràcia was once a village separate from Barcelona, and it maintains its own unique customs and festivities. For its main festival, the Festa Major, the barri (neighbourhood) celebrates with activities for every age and taste, from foam baths, clowns and puppet shows for the kids, to crafts, food and live music on the streets and in the squares. Traffic is limited in and out of the neighbourhood, while cafés move their tables out to the streets, where large and elaborate fantasy scenes have been crafted by numerous street associations, a labour of love that takes neighbours of this urban village months to prepare. Many peo-ple visit Gràcia just to wander around and choose their favourite designs. Better than Disneyland, it’s a 24-hour party filled with music, art and good vibrations.

Illus

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La Rambla

Gran Via de les C

orts Cata

lanes

Gran Via de les C

orts Cata

lanes

Aragó

Aragó

PL. CATALUNYA

Ronda de Sant Pere

Ronda de Sant Pere

Via Laietana

Passeig de Picasso

Liceu

Princesa

Nou de la

Ram

bla

BarcelonaCathedral

Rond

a de

San

t Ant

oni

C

arme

Pass

eig

de C

olom

Tallers

Joaquin Costa

Riera Alta

Rambla del Raval

Riereta

Carretes

Ronda de Sant Pau

Portal de l’Ángel

Sant Antoni Abat

Comte d’Urgell

Sepulveda

Jardins delsHorts deSant Pau

Jardins delsTres Torres

Muntaner

Casanova

Villarroel

Diputa

ció

Conse

ll de Cent

Conse

ll de Cent

València

Avinguda de Roma

Aribau

Balmes

Balmes

Mallo

rca

Viladomat

Rocafort

Comte Borrell

Riera Amelia

Calabria

Floridablanca

Tam

arit

Mansó

Rambla de Catalunya

Hospital

Sant

a Mad

rona

Pelayo

University ofBarcelona

Urgell

Universitat

Universitat

Sant Antoni

Catalunya

Passeigde Gracia

Urquinaona

Urquinaona

Liceu

Drasssanes

Jaume I

Barceloneta

Pl. Catalunya

Mercat deSanta Caterina

Santa Mariadel Pi

Centre de CulturaContemporania

de Barcelona

BarcelonaMuseum of

Contemporary Art

Pompeu FabraUniversity

ColumbusMonument

Palau de la Música Catalana

Museu Maritimde Barcelona

Passeig de Gràcia

La Rambla

G LD

F

EB

Church of Santa Maria del Mar

Barcelona Zoo

Parc de laCiutadella

Passeig de Pujades

Arc de Triomph

C

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A

B

JK

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CIUTAT VELLA: RAVAL + BARRI GÒTIC

A Reserva Ibérica (p.6)

B Orxateria Valenciana (p.50)

C Sirvent (p.50)

D Satan’s Coffee Corner (p.18)

E CCCB (p.34; 50)

F Caravelle (p.18)

G Carolina Blue (p.7)

H Canadian Consulate (p.48)

I Suculent (p.18)

J Fonda Espanya (p.20)

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41

La Rambla

Gran Via de les C

orts Cata

lanes

Gran Via de les C

orts Cata

lanes

Aragó

Aragó

PL. CATALUNYA

Ronda de Sant Pere

Ronda de Sant Pere

Via Laietana

Passeig de Picasso

Liceu

Princesa

Nou de la

Ram

bla

BarcelonaCathedral

Rond

a de

San

t Ant

oni

C

arme

Pass

eig

de C

olom

Tallers

Joaquin Costa

Riera Alta

Rambla del Raval

Riereta

Carretes

Ronda de Sant Pau

Portal de l’Ángel

Sant Antoni Abat

Comte d’Urgell

Sepulveda

Jardins delsHorts deSant Pau

Jardins delsTres Torres

Muntaner

Casanova

Villarroel

Diputa

ció

Conse

ll de Cent

Conse

ll de Cent

València

Avinguda de Roma

Aribau

Balmes

Balmes

Mallo

rca

Viladomat

Rocafort

Comte Borrell

Riera Amelia

Calabria

Floridablanca

Tam

arit

Mansó

Rambla de Catalunya

Hospital

Sant

a Mad

rona

Pelayo

University ofBarcelona

Urgell

Universitat

Universitat

Sant Antoni

Catalunya

Passeigde Gracia

Urquinaona

Urquinaona

Liceu

Drasssanes

Jaume I

Barceloneta

Pl. Catalunya

Mercat deSanta Caterina

Santa Mariadel Pi

Centre de CulturaContemporania

de Barcelona

BarcelonaMuseum of

Contemporary Art

Pompeu FabraUniversity

ColumbusMonument

Palau de la Música Catalana

Museu Maritimde Barcelona

Passeig de Gràcia

La Rambla

G LD

F

EB

Church of Santa Maria del Mar

Barcelona Zoo

Parc de laCiutadella

Passeig de Pujades

Arc de Triomph

C

D

I

EF

G

H

A

B

JK

M

NO

P

L

Q

R

S

PLACES MENTIONED IN THIS GUIDE

K Guàrdia Urbana station (p.48)

L Liceu (p.30)

M Museu Diocesà (p.36)

N Rasoterra (p.6)

O Ojalá (p.7)

P Palau de la Música (p.30)

Q Bestial (p.50)

R Agua (p.50)

S Sal Café (p.50)

40-45. maps.indd 3 6/5/13 1:24:36 PM

42

H

H

Avinguda Diagonal

Passeig de Gràcia

Tuset Aribau

Muntaner

Aribau Comte d’Urgell

Calvet

Sagues Santaló

Muntaner

Travessera de Gràcia

Recto

r Ubach

Via Augusta

Balmes

Via AugustaGran de Gràcia

Torrent de l’Olla

Travessera de Gracia

Peril

Montseny

l’Or

T

ordera

Passeig de Sant Joan

C

òrsega

In

dustria

Pro

vença

Pau Claris

Bailen

Bailen

Girona Bruc


Mallo

rca

V

alència

Còrsega

Londre

s

Rosselló

M

allorca

Provença

Diputa

ció

Gran Via de le

s Corts

Catalanes

Conse

ll de Cent

Aragó

Valencia

Marina

Ronda de Sant Pere

Gleva

Padua

Tetuan

Arc deTriomf

FremapBarcelona

Centre deOftalmolgia

Barraguer

Diagonal

Provença

Mercat deGalvany

Gràcia

SantGervasi

Pl. Molina

Vila deGracia

Diagonal

Girona

Temple de laSagrada Família

SagradaFamília Sagrada

Família

Verdaguer

Verdaguer

Monumental

Mercat de laConcepció

Avinguda Diagonal

Passeigde Gràcia

B

A

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C

Bonavista

Paris

Bruc

Roselló

n

Gran Via de le

s Corts

Catalanes

Saragossa FontanaAstúrias

G

F

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H

IE

EIXAMPLE + GRÀCIA

A UK Consulate (p.48)

B Chez Cocó (p.17)

C New Zealand Consulate (p.48)

D The Mirror (p.22)

E Sirvent (p.50)

40-45. maps.indd 4 6/5/13 1:24:36 PM

43

H

H

Avinguda Diagonal

Passeig de Gràcia

Tuset Aribau

Muntaner

Aribau Comte d’Urgell

Calvet

Sagues Santaló

Muntaner

Travessera de Gràcia

Recto

r Ubach

Via Augusta

Balmes

Via AugustaGran de Gràcia

Torrent de l’Olla

Travessera de Gracia

Peril

Montseny

l’Or

T

ordera


C

òrsega

In

dustria

Pro

vença

Pau Claris

Bailen

Bailen

Girona Bruc


Mallo

rca

V

alència

Còrsega

Londre

s

Rosselló

M

allorca

Provença

Diputa

ció

Gran Via de le

s Corts

Catalanes

Conse

ll de Cent

Aragó

Valencia

Marina

Ronda de Sant Pere

Gleva

Padua

Tetuan

Arc deTriomf

FremapBarcelona

Centre deOftalmolgia

Barraguer

Diagonal

Provença

Mercat deGalvany

Gràcia

SantGervasi

Pl. Molina

Vila deGracia

Diagonal

Girona

Temple de laSagrada Família

SagradaFamília Sagrada

Família

Verdaguer

Verdaguer

Monumental

Mercat de laConcepció

Avinguda Diagonal

Passeigde Gràcia

B

A

F

C

Bonavista

Paris

Bruc

Roselló

n

Gran Via de le

s Corts

Catalanes

Saragossa FontanaAstúrias

G

F

D

C

AB

H

IE

PLACES MENTIONED IN THIS GUIDE

F La Parada (p.6)

G La Pedrera (p.36)

H Auditori de Barcelona (p.30)

I Razzmatazz (p.29)

40-45. maps.indd 5 6/5/13 1:24:37 PM

Ads Summer 2013.indd 21 6/4/13 12:42:52 PM

CONTI4FASHIONDesigner clothes shop with top brands–G-star Raw, Franklin & Marshall, Replay, Antony Morato, Gola, Superdry, Cruyff, Bikkembergs, Adidas, Diesel, New Balance–and more.

L'illa shopping center, Diagonal 512, 08006 T. 93 416 1211www.econti.com Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/conti.dconti

ARTSHOP4ART SUPPLIESArt can be considered to be something synonymous with Barcelona. From the majestic Sagrada Familia cathedral to the splendid artwork of Pablo Picasso, art is found everywhere in the city. When inspiration strikes and you want to create your own masterpiece, the Artshop has everything from a simple watercolour set to a full range of quality art supplies.

Calle Sitges 7 T. 93 676 2311 [email protected]

PARRUP4CONCEPT STOREPARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture. Why PARRUP? Because we love talented people. Because we want to showcase what they can offer. Because we believe in local economy and production transparency. Nothing more, nothing less.

Banys Nous 20 www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

SHOPPING DIReCTORy

24 KILATeS4STREETWEARLocated in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands such as New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

Comerç 29 T. 93 268 8437 www.24-kts.com

Directory.indd 2 6/5/13 11:44:25 AM

46. metro map.indd 1 6/5/13 11:16:02 AM

48

Need to KnowBARCELONA: thE pRACtiCAL iNfO

EMERGENCY NUMBERS General emergencies 112 Ambulance service (Ambulància) 061 Catalan Police (Mossos d’Esquadra) 088 City Police (Guàrdia Urbana) 092 Fire Service (Bombers) 080

if YOU LOSE YOUR CREDit CARDS Visa & Mastercard - 902 192 100 Amex - 902 375 637 Diner’s Club - 900 801 331

iN thE EVENt Of A CRiME The most central place to report a crime is the Guàrdia Urbana station at Ramblas 43. Tel. 93 256 2430 (24 hr; English spo-ken). www.bcn.es/guardiaurbana

To get a police report for your insurance you can go to the Mossos d’Esquadra station at Nou de la Rambla 76-80, Raval. Tel. 93 306 2300. You can also fill in a report online: go to the website www.gencat.net/mossos and select ‘Denún-cies’ then ‘Denúncies per internet’ (Eng-lish option available). You will still have to take the completed form to the station to be signed within 72 hours.

OthER USEfUL NUMBERS Barcelona general information: 010 National directory enquiries: 11818

LOSt pROpERtY Anything left on public transport or found by police is sent either to the TMB office at Diagonal metro station (top of Passeig de Gràcia) or to the Oficina de Troballes (municipal lost property of-fice) at Pl. Carles Pi i Sunyer 8-10; open Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm. Most items are kept for three months.

CONSULAtES AUSTRALIA: There is currently no Australian consulate here. If advice/help is needed, contact the Madrid embassy: tel. 91 353 6600. www.spain.embassy.gov.au CANADA: Plaça de Catalunya 9, 1º 2ª. Tel. 93 270 3614. www.canadainternational.gc.ca NEW ZEALAND: Travessera de Grà-cia 64. Tel. 93 209 0399 www.nzembassy.com REPUBLIC OF IRELAND: Gran Via Carles III 94. Tel. 93 491 5021. www.irlanda.es UK: Avda. Diagonal 477. Tel. 902 109 356. www.ukinspain.fco.gov.uk USA: Passeig Reina Elisenda 23. Tel. 93 280 2227. www.madrid.usembassy.gov

48. Essential info.indd 2 6/4/13 2:39:19 PM

Pharmacy Serra mandri4chemistThe helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this well-known Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics.

Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

mary d. mccarthy4DOctORDr. Mary McCarthy, a native English speaker, is an American-trained doctor for adults with over 20 years of experience in professional, private health care in Barcelona. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral 1ª FGC Diagonal or Gràcia T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040

the BritiSh dental clinic4DeNtistDental emergency whilst on holiday? Contact the British Dental Clinic for a fast, efficient solution to your problem, so that you can continue enjoying your holiday in comfort. The British Dental Clinic has a patient-friendly philosophy and a commitment to total oral health.Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Familia (L5) Monumental (L2)T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 [email protected]

radiO taXi cOmtal4tAXiLooking for a speedy ride across town? In a rush to get to the airport? Call Radio Taxi Comtal for a 24-hour taxi service with a range of vehicles available, including 5 and 6-seaters. Services available to the airport, city-wide points of interest, viewing points over the city and road trips around Catalunya. Please show this guide for a VIP treatment.

T. 93 519 1919 www.radiotaxicomtal.com

emerGency directOry

Radio Taxi

Comtal

Directory.indd 1 6/5/13 11:43:37 AM

Little Black BookESSENTIAL ADDRESSES FOR YOUR BARCELONA STAY

50

BEACHSIDE DINING BESTIAL and AGUA: Ramon Tri-as Fargas 2-4 and Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta 30. Despite the differ-ing addresses, these two restaurants are next to each other at the foot of the Hotel Arts. Part of the always reliable Grupo Tragaluz, their outdoor tables practically touch the sand.

SAL CAFÉ: Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta. www.salcafe.com. Enjoy a mix of Mediterranean and internation-al dishes, ranging from traditional pa-ella to modern fusions, in a privileged beach-front position.

CAL PINXO: Plaça de Pau Vila 1. OK, so it’s not actually by the beach, but this restaurant overlooks Barce-lona’s ‘old’ harbour and is located in a beautiful historic building.

SUMMER DRINKS

ORXATA & GRANISSAT: Enjoy these local thirst-quenchers at many cafés around the city. Orxata (horchata in Castilian) may be made from any one of a number of key ingredients, in-cluding ground almonds or tigernuts (be warned—it’s majorly calorific!). In contrast, granissat (granizado in Cas-

tilian) is a crushed ice drink, which tra-ditionally comes in lemon flavour, al-though many cafés also serve coffee, strawberry and other fruit flavours. Some of the best places to try these in Barcelona are: Sirvent (Parlament 56 and Balmes 130; www.turronessirvent.com) and Orxateria Valenciana (Arib-au 16; www.lavalenciana.com)

OPEN-AIR CINEMABarcelona film-lovers head outdoors in the summer, to watch original-language movies in various al fresco settings

SALA MONTJUÏC. In the grounds of the castle at the top of Montjuïc, sever-al screenings are put on each week from the end of June until early August. Pic-nics, live music and short films com-plete the fun. www.salamontjuic.org

GANDULES. Each year, the court-yard of the CCCB art centre hosts this festival dedicated to watching high-brow movies from around the world in deckchairs. www.cccb.org

CINEMA A LA FRESCA. Escape the city centre and enjoy films in the gardens behind L’illa shopping centre. www.lilla.com (NB. 2013 programme tbc. Please check web for info.)

50. Little Black Book.indd 2 6/4/13 2:39:56 PM

barcelona metropolitan summer tourist guide 2013

Documents

barcelona summer

new shop

new bistro

carnivorefriendly barcelona

good places

neighbourhood of grcia

summer guide

pmads summer