basic garment construction - seam & stitch

7/28/2019 Basic Garment Construction - Seam & Stitch

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Assignment on Stitch & Seam

amrul

IFT

S M TOWHEED

72-001-045

MT, BIFT.


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January19, 10

Course teacher,

Basic Garment Construction

BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology.

Uttra, Dhaka.

Dear Sir,

Here is the report that you asked us to prepare in the purpose of assignment on January19, 10.

This assignment has three (3) main parts, 1.Introduction, 2.Description of stitch, 3.Description

of seam. I have tried my level best to make this assignment informative, innovative. I did not

take it as an assignment; rather I took it like a research. I think this assignment reflects what

you taught us in the course on seam and stitch.

I am very much proud to be your student. We hope long live among us and good wish for

your coming days.

Yours Sincerely,

A S M Towheed

072-001-045

AMT, BIFT.

Stitch:Kind of the stitch

Classification of stitch as BSI:

Class Name of Stitch Available subclass Created Machine

Class100 Chain stitch 7 and each class issubdivided

SNCS, Blind StitchMachine.

Class200 Hand stitch 13 Number of

subdivided classes is88.

Class 300 Lockstitch 27 in total. SNLS, 2NLS, Bartuck machine.

Class 400 Multi needle chain stitch 17 in total. Kansai Machine,2NCS

Class 500 Over-edge chain stitch 15 in total. 3T, 4T, 5T over lock


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machine.

Class 600 Covering chain 9 in total. Flat lock machine.

Class 100 Stitches

Class 100 stitches are single thread chain stitches using one needle thread and one blind looper.

FeatureA piece of thread is interlaced like a chain under the cloth and the stitches are formed as knitted.

The constructive feature is that the stitches are untied one after another when the interlacementat the end of sewing comes off.

ApplicationBasting (ML-111), button sewing (AMB-189N), (MB-377), chain stitch buttonholing (MBH-180S),

blind stitch, And closing of bag opening.

Example of Stitch formation

Stitch formation:

A: Needle thread slacks at the positionwhere needle slightly goes up from its

lowest position, and looper catches theneedle thread which has become like a

loop.Also, the needle enters the circle ofneedle thread which is widened by thelooper.

B: Needle comes off the cloth and thecloth is fed. Looper rotates and removes

the thread which the looper caughtbefore while pulling in the needlethread. Needle bar continues going upand needle thread take-up lever lifts the

thread.

Class 101 ... Chain stitch Class 103 ... Blind stitch

Looper

Needle


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C: Looper continues rotating and pullsin the thread in the center of the looper

and thread take-up lever tightens thethread which the looper removedbefore.

D: Cloth feed is finished and a stitch is

formed. Needle penetrates the cloth tocontinue to next stitch, A.

We get class 100 stitches from SNCS, blind stitch machine etc.

Sub Classes of Class 100 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 101 One Thread Basting, or light construction

Class 103 One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/103cl.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/101cl.htm


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Class 104 One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming

Class 200 Stitches

Single thread hand sewed stitches using one needle thread.

FeatureSame stitch as that of hand stitch is formed by a piece of thread. Thread is drawn in every stitchor every other stitch and the length of stitching is limited. Since friction is given at the sameposition of the sewing thread many times, the thread is untwined during sewing resulting in thread

breakage unless the thread is a high-durable one. Even when the sewing is made, the stitch looks

broken. Therefore, the thread that can be used is limited. Application

Decorative stitch of suits or like, kimono (Japanese national dress), Button sewing of coats, suits,

etc. Example of stitch formation

Stitch Formation:

A: Needle is fixed to upper needle bar, andleft-hand and right-hand loopers draw andretain the thread. Cloth is fed and the needle

comes down.

Class 200 Hand Stitch
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/104cl.htm


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B: Needle penetrates the cloth and isdelivered to the lower needle bar. The right-

hand looper returns to its home place.

C: Lower looper catches the thread loop atthe position where the lower needle barslightly goes up from its lowest position.

D: Lower looper draws out thread whichenters under the cloth one stitch before fromthe above left-hand looper. Simultaneously

the cloth is fed.

E: Needle goes up and penetrates the cloth.Lower looper further pulls in the thread

downward.


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F: Needle penetrates the cloth, and isdelivered to the upper needle bar and goes

up. Thread is wiped out by the lower looper.Next, the above left-hand and right-handloopers catch the thread to continue to A.



Class 202 One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs

Class 205 One Thread Pick Stitch - Topstitching

Class 300 Stitches

Two or more thread lock stitches using needle thread(s) and one bobbin hook thread.

Feature

Two threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (bobbin thread) are used. Everystitch upper thread and lower thread interlaces each other and the stitches on right and wrongsides are the same. This stitch is widely used since it is not easily frayed and securely joins pluralpieces of cloth. It is necessary to replace the bobbin thread since stitch formation is obtained by

rotation of the needle thread around the bobbin case. Application

General sewing (DDL-5550N, DDL-5700-7, DLU-5490N-7, DLN-5410N-7), Shirring (DLU-5494N-7),2-needle lockstitch (LH-3128-7), Zigzag stitch (LZ-2288N-7), Plain stitch, Decorative stitch,Bartacking (LK-1900), Lockstitch buttonholing (LBH-790RS-1), Button sewing (LK-1903/BR25),Pockect sewing (APW-196) and Pattern sewing (AMS-210D)

Example of stitch formation

JIS mark 301 ... 1-needle lockstitch JIS mark 304 ... 1-needle lockstitch zigzag stitch


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A: Upper thread slacks at the positionwhere the needle slightly goes up fromits lowest position, and blade point ofouter hook catches the loop-shaped

upper thread and pulls in the upperthread.

B: Upper thread which is pulled in bythe blade point of outer hook isseparated at the inner hook threadseparating portion so that the upperthread on the needle side is separatedto the rear side of inner hook and the

upper thread on cloth side is separated

to the right side of inner hook.

C: Outer hook rotates, while pulling inupper thread, around the periphery ofbobbin case containing lower thread setin inner hook. Thread take-up lever

supplies upper thread which isnecessary to rotate around inner hook.

(Suppose that inner hook is a humanbeing, and it looks like doing rope-skipping.)

1-needle lockstitch 1-needle lockstitch zigzag


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D: Immediately after upper thread hasrotated around inner hook, thread

take-up lever lifts upper thread and theupper thread is interlaced with the lower

E: Stitch is formed when the upperthread lifts the lower thread and cloth isfed at the end. Next, needle comes

down and penetrates cloth to continueto A: .

2 Semi-rotary hook

A: Blade point of semi-rotary hookcatches loop-shaped upper thread.


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D: Upper thread rotates around theperiphery of bobbin case by rotation of

the hook.

C: After 1/2 rotation of the hook, upperthread is lifted by thread take-up leverand is interlaced with lower thread.

D: Stitch is formed when the upper

thread lifts the lower thread and cloth isfed at the end. To be continued to a : .


DiagramStitchClass

No. ofThread

Typical Uses


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Class301

TwoThreads

Seaming Multiple Plies

Class304

TwoThread

Zigzag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch

Class306

TwoThread

Blind Stitch

Class

315

Two

Threads

"Three Step Zigzag; a stretch lockstitch

with more stretch

Class 400 Stitches

Multi-thread/needle chain stitches using one or more needle threads and one or more ooperthreads.

FeatureUpper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (looper thread) are interlaced with each other like

a chain under cloth, and the stitches look like knitted. The stitches look the same as those oflockstitch when observing from the surface of cloth. Sewing can be performed continuously for along time since lower thread as well as upper thread can be supplied continuously. Stitches are fullof elasticity, and widely used for the elastic cloth and places to which shock is applied. Defect,

when compared with the lockstitch, is that the stitch is easily frayed. Application

General sewing (MH-481-5) Rubber tape attaching, Lace attaching to underwear, swim-suit, etc.Eyelet buttonholing (MEB-2688), Side seam (MS-1190), Belt loop making (MFB-2600)

Example of stitch formationJIS mark 401 ... 1-needle double chain stich JIS mark 406 ... 2-needle double chain stitch

Stitch formation
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/315cl.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/306cl.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/304cl.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/301cl.htm


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A: Needle thread comes off looper andis tightened. Then, looper scoops

needle thread at the position whereneedle slightly goes up from its lowestposition.

B: Needle continues to go up and

looper thread comes off needle. Looperadvances in the state that it hasscooped needle thread.

C: Cloth is fed when needle is in the highestdead point and looper is in the most advanced

state, and the final tightening of needlethread is performed.

D: Needle comes down and the needle tipscoops looper thread. Looper performs elliptic

motion. Then, stitch formation is continued to



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DiagramStitchClass

No. ofThread

Typical Uses

Class 401Two

Threads

Seaming Multiple Plies with moderate

stretch

Class 406Three

Threads"Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater)

stretch chain stitch

Class 500 Stitches

Multi-thread over Edge chain stitches using needle threads and looper threads. Feature

In many cases, three threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower threads (upper looperthread and lower looper thread) are interlaced with one another so as to hem material end, andthe stitches look like knitted.

This stitch belongs to the classification of chain stitch. The stitch itself can expand following theexpansion of cloth. Accordingly, this stitch is mostly used for the cloth which is largely expanded(knit or the like).

Application

Cloth which is largely expanded, blind over-edging, prevention of fray at material end (ASN-397/serging machine) Over lock sewing machine (MO-3904), 2-needle over lock machine (MO-3914), Cylinder-bed over lock sewing machine (MOC-3914)

Extra: Compound stitching Feature

This stitch is favorable to the productivity since double chain stitching and over-edge chainstitching are simultaneously performed (safety stitch). The machine is called "Interlock machine".(MO-3916)

ApplicationGeneral run stitching, side joining of shirts, slacks, etc.

Example of stitch formation

JIS mark 504 ... 1-needle over lock JIS mark 506 ... 2-needle over lock

Stitch formation


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A: Lower looper scoops needle threadloop.

B: Upper looper thread comes off needleand upper looper scoops lower looperthread.

C: Cloth is fed.


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D: Needle tip scoops upper looperthread.

E: Lower looper thread which is caught

on upper looper comes off. Then, needlethread which is caught on lower looper

comes off.

F: Needle thread which is before one

stitch is tightened at the lower deadpoint of needle.Stitch formation is continued to A.


DiagramStitchClass

No. ofThread

Typical Uses


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Hemming (MFC-7605/AH-1) Decorative stitch for lace attaching to underwear, swim-suits, etc. Example of stitch formation

JIS mark 605 ... 3-needle covering chainstitch JIS mark 602 ... 2-needle covering chain stitch

Stitch formationA: Lower looper scoops needle threadloop,and simultaneously upper decorative

looper scoops upper decorative thread.

B: Cloth is fed and only right-handneedle is positioned in the outside ofdecorative thread.Two left-hand needles come down and

scoop upper decorative thread.


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C: Needles further come down andscoop lower looper thread. And, two

right-handneedles enter in between the respectiveneedle threads as shown in theillustration.

D: Needle thread comes off lower looperand needle comes down in its lowestposition. Lower looper and upperdecorative looper are in the mostretracted positions. Stitch formation iscontinued to A .



Class 602 Four Thread Covering Stitch or Seaming Knits

Class 605 Five Thread Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams


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Class 607 Six Thread Wide Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams

SEAM:

Seam: Seam is a group of stitch.

Superimposed Seams

Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are superimposed on Each Other.

Seam DiagramSeamClass

NeedleCount

Typical Uses and Stitch Types

CLASS-1a

1 or 2Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,

Class 400 , or Class 500

CLASS-1b

1 or 2Seaming two plies with one edge folded using

Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

c1 or 2

Seaming two plies with a finished edge Class

100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssc.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssb.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssa.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/607cl.htm


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CLASS-1d


or Class 400

CLASS-1

e2

Seaming two plies with finished edge in two

steps using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1f

3Bottom Covering stitch Seaming on two plies

using Class 400 , Class 500 , or Class 500

CLASS-1

h2

Bottom Covering stitch Seaming on two pliesClass 100 , Class 300 ,or Class 400 AND

103Class

CLASS-1j

1 or 2Seaming three plies Raw edge finish where

center ply may be ribbon using Class 100 , Class300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

k1

Seaming three plies where center ply may befolded edge finish using Class 100 , Class 300 ,

or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssk.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssj.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssh.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssf.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/sse.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssd.htm


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CLASS-1l

1Seaming of two plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

m2

Joining two Plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or

Class 400

CLASS-1n

1 or 2Seaming of two plies folded to one face using


CLASS-1

p1 or 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,

or Class 400

CLASS-1q

2Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300

, or Class 400

CLASS-1

r1


or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssr.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssq.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssp.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssn.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssm.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssl.htm


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CLASS-1s


or Class 400

CLASS-1

t2


or Class 400

CLASS-1u

2Edge Seam with Third ply as tape using Class


CLASS-1

v1 or 2

Internal Seaming of two plies using Class 100 ,


CLASS-1w

2Seaming two plies with edges folded using Class


CLASS-1

x2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300

, or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssx.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssw.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssv.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssu.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/sst.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/sss.htm


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CLASS-1y

2Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300

, or Class 400

CLASS-1

z3

Butt Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1aa


or Class 400

CLASS-1

ab1 or 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1ac

3Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

ad3


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssad.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssac.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssab.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssaa.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssz.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssy.htm


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CLASS-1ae

2

Seaming two plies with using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400known as "French Seam"

CLASS-1

af2


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1ag


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

ah3


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1aj


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1ak

1 or 2Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssak.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssaj.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssah.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssag.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssaf.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssae.htm


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CLASS-1

al2


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1am


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1an


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1ao


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

ap 3


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1aq


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssaq.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssap.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssao.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssan.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssam.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssal.htm


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CLASS-1

ar3


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1as


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1at


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1au


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

av 2


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1aw


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssaw.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssav.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssau.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssat.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssas.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssar.htm


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CLASS-1ax


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1ay


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

az1 or 2


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

ba 3


300 , or Class 400 AND 2xClass 500

CLASS-1bb


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

bc1 or 2


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssbc.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssbb.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssba.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssaz.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssay.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssax.htm


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CLASS-1bd

1 or 2Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1be


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

bf3


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1

bg


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1bh


300 , or Class 400

Lapped Seams

Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are SuperimpClass-5 ed and/or Folded on Each Other
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssbh.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssbg.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssbf.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssbe.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/ssbd.htm


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NeedleCount


CLASS-2a

1 or 2Overlap seam of two plies at edges using


CLASS-2b

1 or 2Overlap seam of two plies with one edgefolded using Class 100 , Class 300 , or

Class 400

CLASS-2c

1, 2 or3

Flat Felled Seam using Class 100 , Class300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2

d1 or 2

Seaming of two plies where one ply isfolded and set in the middle of the other

using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsd.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsc.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsb.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsa.htm


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CLASS-2e

1 or 2

Seaming Three plies with finished edgeswhere two plies lay in one direction (Yoke

stitch) using Class 100 , Class 300 , orClass 400

CLASS-2f

1

Seaming Three plies with finished edgeswhere two plies lay in one direction (Yoke

stitch) using Class 100 , Class 300 , orClass 400

CLASS-2g

2Seaming three plies with finished edges(Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class 300 ,or

Class 400

CLASS-2j

2 Seaming three plies with finished edgesand interfacing (Shirt Placket) Class 100 ,

Class 300 ,or Class 400

CLASS-2k

2Seaming two plies with finished edges

(simple Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class 300

,or Class 400

CLASS-2 l 2Seaming three plies with finished edges

http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsl.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsk.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsj.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsg.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsf.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lse.htm


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CLASS-2m

2Seaming two plies with finished edges and

interfacing (simple Shirt Placket) usingClass 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2n

1 or 2Two plies folded and bound using Class 100

, Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2p

2Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2q 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2

r2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 2Seaming two plies in two steps using Class

http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lss.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsr.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsq.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsp.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsj.htnhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsm.htm


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CLASS-2t


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2u

2

Seaming three plies where one binds the

other two behind the face Class 100 , Class300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2v

1 or 2Seaming two plies where face binds the

second ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , orClass 400

CLASS-2w

4

Seaming four plies where one ply wraps

around two facing plies, bound to anotherply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class

400

CLASS-2x

2Seaming three plies with raw edges using


CLASS-2y

2Seaming three plies with edges using Class

http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsy.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsx.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsw.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsv.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsu.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lst.htm


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CLASS-2z


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2aa



CLASS-2ab

3Seaming three plies with using Class 100 ,


CLASS-2ac

2 Seaming three plies bound with raw edgesusing Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2ad

2+Seaming three plies bound with raw edgesusing Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2ae

2Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400"Stitched Pleat"
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsae.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsad.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsac.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsab.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsaa.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsz.htm


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CLASS-2af


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2

ag2


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2ah

1 or 2Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape

CLASS-2aj

1 or 2Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2ak


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2al

2Seaming two plies as a placket using Class

http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsal.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsak.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsaj.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsah.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsag.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsaf.htm


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CLASS-2am

2Seaming three plies as a placket with

interfacing using Class 100 , Class 300 , orClass 400

CLASS-2an

2

Seaming two plies as a placket with

interfacing using Class 100 , Class 300 , orClass 400

CLASS-2ap


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2aq

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2ar

1 or 2Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2as


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsas.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsar.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsaq.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsap.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsan.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsam.htm


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CLASS-2at

2Seaming two plies with seam tape usingClass 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 and

two rows of ribbon or tape

CLASS-2

au2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-2av



CLASS-2aw


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2

ay 4


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2az


http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsaz.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsay.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsaw.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsav.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsau.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsat.htm


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CLASS-2bb


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2bc


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2bd

2Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2

be2

Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

>

CLASS-2bf 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2bg


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbg.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsb.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbd.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbc.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbb.htm


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CLASS-2bh

1 or 2Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2bj


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2bk


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2bl


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2bm 3

Seaming two plies using two of Class 100 ,

Class 300 ,or Class 400 and one Class 500 stitchSometimes known as "Make felling"

CLASS-2bn


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbn.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbm.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbl.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbk.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbj.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbh.htm


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CLASS-2bo


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2bp


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2

bq2


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2br


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2Class-3

1 or 2Seaming four plies with raw edges using

Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400w/ribbon or tape
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbs.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbr.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbq.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbp.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbo.htm


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CLASS-2by


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2bz


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2ca


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cb

2Seaming five plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cc


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscc.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscb.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsca.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsbz.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsby.htm


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CLASS-2cd

3Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2ce


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cf


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cg

2Seaming three plies in using Class 100 ,


CLASS-2ch


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsch.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscg.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscf.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsce.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscd.htm


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CLASS-2cj


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2ck


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2Class


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cm


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cn

3Seaming three plies 1using Class 100 ,

http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscm.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscm.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscl.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsck.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscj.htm


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CLASS-2co


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cp


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cq


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cr


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cs


300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscs.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscr.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscq.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscp.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsco.htm


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CLASS-2ct


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cu


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cw


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cx


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2cy


300 , or Class 400 with ribbon
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscy.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscx.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscw.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscu.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsct.htm


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CLASS-2cz

2Seaming seven plies using Class 100 ,


CLASS-2da


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2db


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2

dd2


300 , or Class 400 with interlining

CLASS-2

do 3


300 , or Class 400

Bound Seams

Seams in which One Ply of Fabric is sewn over the edge of Two or More Plies of Fabric
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsdo.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsdd.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsdb.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lsda.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/lscz.htm


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Right Classick and selectSave to Download

the Diagram

Seam

Class

Needle

CountTypical Uses and Stitch Types

CLASS-3a

1 or 2Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


CLASS-3

b1 or 2

Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


CLASS-3c



CLASS-3d

2Binding over the edge of two plies using

http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsd.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsc.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsb.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsa.htm


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CLASS-3e



CLASS-3

f2



CLASS-3g

2Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


CLASS-3h

3 Binding over the edge of two plies usingClass 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3j



CLASS-3k


http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsk.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsj.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsh.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsg.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsf.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bse.htm


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CLASS-3l



CLASS-3

m3



CLASS-3n



CLASS-3p



CLASS-3

q



CLASS-3

r3


http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsr.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsq.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsp.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsn.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsm.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/bsl.htm


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NeedleCount


CLASS-5a

1 or 2Decorative Stitching using Class 100 ,

Class 300 , Class 400 or 600Class

CLASS-5

b1 or 2

Decorative Stitching using cordingSometimes called "Pin-tuck" with Cording

Using 304Class or Class 400 stitch

CLASS-5c

1 or 2Decorative Stitching sometimes called "Pin-

tuck"Using 304Class or Class 400 stitch
ftp://www.garmento.org/751a/seams/osc.jpgftp://www.garmento.org/751a/seams/osb.jpgftp://www.garmento.org/751a/seams/osa.jpg


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CLASS-5

d2

Tuck stitching with Cording and Backerusing dual 101Class, 301Class, or 401Class

stitch

CLASS-5e

1Side Tuck Stitching using 101Class,

301Class, or 401Class stitch

CLASS-5f

1

"Stitch-Crease" stitching using 301Class

stitch - AClass-2 o called "Pin-Tuck"may be repeated

CLASS-5g

3Self-Stripe Trim using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400 stitch

CLASS-5h

1Piping Trim using Class 100 , Class 300 , or

Class 400 stitch

Edge Netening /Edge Finish Seam

Fabric Edge is finished with Stitching
ftp://www.garmento.org/751a/seams/osh.jpgftp://www.garmento.org/751a/seams/osg.jpgftp://www.garmento.org/751a/seams/osf.jpgftp://www.garmento.org/751a/seams/ose.jpgftp://www.garmento.org/751a/seams/osd.jpg


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NeedleCount


CLASS-6a

1 or 2Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6b


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6c

1Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6

d1 or 2

Finishing one ply using Class 500

"Serging"

CLASS-6e

1 or 2Finishing one ply using Class 500

"Serging" Variation
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efe.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efd.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efc.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/EFb.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/EFa.htm


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CLASS-6f


300 ,Class 400 or 600Class

CLASS-6g


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6h

2 Finishing one ply using Class 400

CLASS-6

j 1 or 2Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6k

2Finishing one ply using Class 100 ,Class

300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6l

http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efl.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efk.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efj.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efh.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/EFg.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/eff.htm


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CLASS-6m

1Finishing one ply using 103Class or

306ClassBlind stitch Hem

CLASS-6n

2Finishing two plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400Example; Belt Make

CLASS-6p



CLASS-6q


300 , or Class 400

Reinforced Hem with Interlining

CLASS-6r


300 , or Class 400

Reinforced Hem with Interlining

CLASS-6s


http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efs.htmftp://wefr.htm/http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efq.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efp.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efn.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efm.htm


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CLASS-6t


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6u


300 , or Class 400"Spagetti Strap"

CLASS-6v


300 , or Class 400 and interlining

CLASS-6w


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6x


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6

y1 or 2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efy.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efx.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efw.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efv.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efu.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/eft.htm


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CLASS-6z


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6aa


300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6ab

2 Finishing one ply using 602Class

CLASS-6ac

2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class300 , or Class 400

with interliningMake Belt

CLASS-6ad


300 , or Class 400with interlining

Make Belt
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efad.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efac.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efab.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efaa.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efz.htm


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CLASS-6ae


CLASS-6af

3Finishing one ply using Class 500 , then

602Class

CLASS-6

ag3

Finishing one ply using Class 500 , then

602Class

CLASS-6

ah1 or 2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400
http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efah.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efag.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efaf.htmhttp://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/efae.htm

basic garment construction - seam & stitch

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