bc ferries onboard (fall2013 final)

7/29/2019 BC Ferries OnBoard (Fall2013 Final)

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fall 2013Exploring Coastal B.C.

DAYTRIPPER

A delightful rediscovery ofVictorias colourful dimensions

TOW COMMUNITY

Living off-grid in Haida Gwaii

SurfS up!TOFINOS BIG WAVES ANDALLURING SURF CULTURE

INAuGurALISSuE

BC Ferriesfirst publication

sets sail

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life.changing

royalroads.ca1.877.778.6227

At Royal Roads University, we pride ourselves on a lot of things our diverse

and inclusive learning model, our stunning, pristine location, and our

steadfast commitment to facilitating personal growth. But most importantly,

we pride ourselves on the people who make up our school, people like you.

When youre ready, well be waiting.

CreativityAmbition

IngenuityInitiative

PerseverancePerspective

CuriosityCollaboration

a s c o l l a b o r a t i o n g e g e r g s n r p

q m m l g e f o a n q v b r h q u n p z s q i k s

a p b e l d p j c r e a t i v i t y e r s w q x z

v g x i o e p j j i a s c d l n p g q u n p z r r

z w o u t t v n f d q s y u c g d v t u d s x b m

a j w u e i g v h x v b s q n e h y t e r w s u y

x x s a v n o b o y u n e u c n r e d t d s u e n

q p b r c s b n r t y w d c s u u i r e x c s a e

s x c t r t y j j d n i o x c i r h o u n d q n f

a p c e t d p j c r x a t i n t r i e s s w q x z

v g x f o i p j j i a s c d l y e f o u i p z r r

p e r s p e c t i v e v b r h q u n p s s t i k s

x e g e l r s n t p t s x i v i t g e r i w y x z

v g x f o e p j j i n i t i a t i v e u n t z g r

z w o u y t v n f d q s y u c s d v t u d s y b m

p e r s e v e r a n c e g e r x e k e i r m j r n

s s a r l a p n j b n o o f r e e g e r v s r e p

Find the traits we admire


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Features

Wild RideMountain biker and freelance writer Joe Schwartz competes in the BC BikeRace an exhilarating seven-day West Coast journey

Te Tow Town CommunityVideographer and journalist Masa Takei reflects on his experiences, neighboursand off-grid lifestyle in one of Haida Gwaiis most intriguing communities

RISE UP!Outdoor educator Dave Quinnreports on the historic raising ofa commemorative totem pole inHaida Gwaii, the first in 130 years

GREAT BEAR RAINFORESTGlobetrotter Mark Sissons exploresthe worlds largest remaining tractof unspoiled ancient temperate

rainforest

PET FRIENDLYWhen it comes to making peoplewith pets feel at home, someVictoria hotels go above and beyond

FALL 2013 BC Ferries onBoard 3

15

20

5 10 22

612 24

267

Inside BC Ferries

ChOOSE YOUR COURSE28 Were we sail: A handyroute map offers an at-a-glanceview of BC Ferries travel holidaypossibilities

29 Our fleet: Fast facts on all ofBC Ferries 35 vessels

30 CREW CLOSE-UPFrom deckhand to Captain ofthe Queen of Surrey, BC Ferries

Master Jan Shalagan talks aboutrealizing her dream

ABOVE: BC Ferries Northern Expedition sails the Inside Passage. Photo by Kent KallbergCOVER: Surfing near Tofino. Photo by Jeremy Koreski

Departments

Inbound

FROM ThE hELMBC Ferries President and ChiefExecutive Officer Mike Corriganoffers an inside view of where thecompany is heading

DAY TRIPSVancouver:Think you knowthis city? Here are some of thefreshest locales to eat, play

and drink in Vancouver

Victoria:A bigger, betterburger, unforgettable macarons,a fresh shave and pedal powerare just a few new ways toexperience B.C.s capital city

Encounters

STORM WATChAcclaimed writer and editorJim Sutherland romancesVancouver Islands big waves,raucous weather

WINTER SURFINGKate MacLennan reveals whyB.C. surfers like her are intheir element in Tofinos cold,

briny chaos

Contents

ONLINE? View this magazine atglobeandmail.com/onboardh h


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A BC Ferries publication,onBoard magazine is produced

in co-operation with

RandallAnthony CommunicationsInc. and Globe Edge, a division

o The Globe and Mails CustomContent Group.

BC F

Jane Carsn, VP Marketing & TravelServices, BC Ferries

Angea ucie, Marketing Manager,BC Ferries

toAl tAM

anda Mang,Editor

c laing,Art Director

AVtNG Al

ichard eacn,National BusinessDevelopment Manager

[email protected]

GloB G

teena PirerDirector, Client Engagement

Charene keGroup Editor

liz MassiceProgram Manager

sabee CabraProduction Co-ordinator,

The Globe and Mail

ay PirriDirector, Production,The Globe and Mail

The BC Ferries logo is a registered

trademark. All rights reserved.

No part o this magazine may be

reproduced without written consento the Publisher. Views o the

writers do not necessarily refect

those o the Publisher.

Canadian Psmaser

send address changes

British Columbia Ferry Services Inc.

#500, 1321 Blanshard St

Victoria, BC

Canada V8W 0B7

Printed in Canada by DM Digital+1

PPot

The ollowing organizations

helped make this edition o onBoard

magazine possible.

4 FALL 2013 BC Ferries onBoard

#bcferries poto contestThis smmer, BC Ferries ivited passegers t share their vacati pht memries Twitter adIstagram ad eter a ctest t wi a vacati package icldig 2 ights accmmdati atVictrias I at Larel Pit pls retr ferr frm Vacver t Vacver Islad. Here are jst afew f the etries received. See the wiig pht at bcferries.com/vacations.

M lve prpsed ad I said es! The we srfed this wave!

East Pit Beach Mae Islad

Beatifl BC BC FerriesPhotos,c

lockwisefromtoP:marie-Noellelegere;keviNvaNder

leek;laurawestoN;laureNtetreault;charmaiNeverhageN


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Inbound

Contributors

It is m pleasre t welcme t the iagral isse fonBoardmagazie. Whether re visitigB.C.s cast fr the first time, r

cmmtig hme frm wrk, I ivite

t explre these pages.We are prd t featre articles

peed b sme f B.C.s best-kwtravel writers. Thrgh clrfl str-tellig, the ffer iqe isight it thecastal cmmities, activities, peple,wildlife ad histr that we at BC Ferriesfeel s privileged t be a part f.

Amg them, vetera jralistJim Stherlad ad avid srfer KateMacLea ffer iqe, breathtakigwas t experiece Tfis big wavesdrig fall ad witer. Reprtig frmfrther rth, tdr edcatr Dave

Qi relas the tale f a histricmmetal ple raisig i Haida Gwaii the first f its kid i 130 ears. Theseare jst a few highlights.

Pblished twice aall withfall/witer ad sprig/smmer priteditis, ad available lie atglbeadmail.cm/bard we hpeonBoard magazie will ispire ttravel with BC Ferries r pla r extcastal hlida with BC Ferries Vaca-tis. Pls, take advatage f BC Ferriesservices icldig the Seawest Lge,Pacific Bffet ad Passages Gift shp.

onBoard als ffers views iside BCFerries, icldig was we are wrkigt ehace r cstmers experieces.

First is r implemetati f a ewAtmated Cstmer Experiece (ACE)prgram that we expect will brigcstmers a ew level f service aditeracti with BC Ferries,

A new magazine is just partof were were eadingA MESSAGE FRoM MIKE CoRRIGAn, PRESIDEnT & CEo, BRITISH CoLuMBIA FERRy SERVICES InC.

We are

fortunate

to live and

work amid

a coastlinerich with

amazing

stories. With

the launch

ofonBoard

magazine,

were

excited to

share some

of them

with you.

Jralist advidegrapherMasa Takeictribtes tExplore, CanadianGeographic, The

Globe and Mail ad ther pblicatis.Mst recetl he filmed a series fvide diaries while bildig a ff-grid cabi Haida Gwaii, radX.ca/masaoffgrid.

A avid srferad swbarder,

writer/editrKate MacLennanhas ctribtedt mre tha 30

pblicatis i Caada, the u.S.A. adAstralia. She crretl wrks withBCBusiness magazie, is VacverEditr fChatelaine ad is BeatEditr fReal Weddings magazie.

Br ad raisedi nels, B.C.,Joe Schwartz hastravelled the wrldwith his bike,attemptig big

jmps fr film shts ad cmpetigi extreme cmpetitis. Je is alsa certified backctr ski gidead a gradate f the BCIT Schlf Bsiess. Je dcmets all hisadvetres at www.joeschwartz.ca.

Jim Sutherland,frmer editrfVancouverad WesternLiving magazies,recetl pblished

the cmic vel Snap Slice.

Travel writer adphtgrapherMark Sissonshas ctribtedt pblicatisicldig The

Globe and Mail, The Toronto Star, TheSan Francisco Chronicle, The Los AngelesTimes, The Huffington Postad thers.

Wildlife bilgist/wilderess gidead tdredcatr DaveQuinn ctribtesreglarl t

pblicatis icldig Westworld,British Columbia Magazine, CanadianWildlife ad als appears CBCRadi 1.

FRoM THE HELM

especiall i the areas f mbilit, withadvatages sch as advace bkigsad express check-i.

I am als pleased t ace thatBC Ferries has received apprval frm

the BC Ferries Cmmissier t bildthree ew Itermediate Classvessels. This allws s t examie theadvatages these mder ships ffer,sch as the capabilit f rig liqefied atral gas (LnG) a fel p-ti that is ptetiall 50 per cet t 60per cet mre affrdable tha mariediesel, ad csidered better fr theevirmet. or plas t bild a cableferr that will perate betwee BckleBa Vacver Islad ad DemaIslad are als mvig frward withservice expected t begi i 2014.

Fiall, Im prd t sa that we arew i Phase III f r SailSafe pr-gram, a jit iitiative with the BC Ferr& Marie Wrkers ui w esrigthat safet is etreched i all aspectsf r peratis ad r cltre.

Ever da, I am gratefl t wrk withsch a prfessial team at BC Ferries.All f s feel privileged t cect rpassegers with sme f the wrldsmst breathtakig destiatis frmB.C.s pristie rth cast ad the HaidaGwaii t Vacver Islad ad GlfIslad cmmities ad the prvices

bstlig Lwer Mailad.We are frtate t live ad wrkamid a castlie rich with amazigstries. With the lach fonBoardmagazie, were excited t share smef them with .

We hpe ej this iagralisse fonBoard. h


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Inbound

DAy TRI PS

EATyaletw diers aresqawkig abt HomerSt. Caf and Bar, a bs-tlig bistr that special-izes i rtisserie chicke.This is cmfrt fd fthe highest rder, servedi a cheerfl spt thatcsil marries the histricHmer Bildig with themre recet Beasle. Startwith fried chickpea dipad crstii, mve t chicke a js withpeewee ptates, adwrap p with chclatepddig, sea salt adhecmb.

898 Homer Street604-428-4299homerstreetcafebar.com

Seafd lvers cat geta fresher fare thaThe Lobster Mans, Graville Islad. Pick rw live Dgeess crabr nva Sctia lbster;staff ca steam it therefr take-t r pack it frlg-distace trasprt.

Start r feast withclams, scallps, mssels rsters like the sccletKsshi variet.1807 Mast Tower Road,

Granville Island604-687-4228lobsterman.com

Fable restarat shrtfr frm farm t table is the braichild f TpChef Caada cmpetitrTrevr Bird. Fables ex-psed brick dcr adhadmade shelvighits f the farmstead.

Meawhile, its mesare ispired b the lcal,seasal igrediets thatshw p at its kitchedr each mrig, whichwid p i hmemadedishes like Slw Cked

Sprig Salm withcarrt pre ad sprigcasslet. Glbe ad Mailrestarat critic AlexadraGill gave Fable three stars,tig, Mr. Birds fdis simple, et exqisitelexected, lvigl srcedad vibratl seased.nff said.1944 West 4th Avenue

604-732-1322fablekitchen.ca

o the mve? Vac-vers fd trck scee hasblssmed, with a hgevariet f delectable, af-frdable ptis availablecrbside ever da. FrmTacofino Cantina, with itsfish, prk, steak ad amtempra tacs, t theplled prk ad smkedbrisket stligs fRe-UpBBQ, ad Idia fsicisie at Vijs RailwayExpress, theres a fdtrck t sit ever taste.Visit streetfoodapp.comfr lcatis.

PLAYSecret Location attractspeple wh eed t bei the kw. Gastwsswath f tred-settigclthig ad dcr shps

Water Street, betweeAbbtt ad Carrll, wicldes this lxrccept stre thats partbtiqe, part lifestleemprim, part chic res-tarat. Brwse thrghthe httest fashis adgewgaws, the plmb theme fr ccktails like theArseic ad old Lace gi,Frech vermth adhse-made crme deVilette i a absithe-washed glass whilecsiderig that LlGiess bag. Darlig, itwill g with everthig.One Water Street

604-685-0090

secretlocation.ca

nvices ad seasedethsiasts alike aredraw t Grouse Moun-tains gided swshe-ig trs. y take the

gdla t the peak, aretfitted with swshes

ad headlamps, the e-j the velvet hsh f aeveigs trek alg trailslaced with sw-dstedfir trees. yr advetreicldes a three-crsedier f varis fdesat Altitdes Bistr.6400 Nancy Greene Way

604-980-9311grousemountain.com

Mch cheaper tha act-all flig cast t cast,FlyOver Canada bwls

ver with its 4D, pa-ramic experiece. Watchthe itrdctr pre-shw,the strap it a mv-able seat that sedces

with the illsi fsarig ver sch famsCack ladmarks asniagara Falls, heighteedb apprpriate sesrgsts.201-999 Canada Place

604-620-8455flyovercanada.com

DRINKTap & Barrels hmepleasres iclde bth

lcal craft beers adpremim B.C. wies tap. Chw dw friedpickles with dill srcream, r a peat btterad jam brger thatschiptle peat btterad bac jam.1055 Canada Place604-235-9TAP; and

1 Athletes Way604-685-2223tapandbarrel.com

Lk! There, i yaletw!Its a barbershp; its a bar;its a clb , its KilljoyBarbers, a sal pas-tiche f all three. Hairctsi the frt, part i theccktail taver at the backmeas a well-grmedclietele savrig wies tap, ctemprarccktails, charcteriead cheese plates, ad abasemet ightclb witha cl lge vibe.106 - 1120 Hamilton Street

604-669-4604donnellygroup.ca Ph

otos:thisPagefromtoP,istockPhoto.c

om;seaNNeild;allotherssuPPlied.o

PPositePagefromtoP,istockPhoto.c

om;a

llotherssuPPlied

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TASTERecetl ppped p ithe tredig Ck StreetVillage (a shrt walk

frm Beac Hill Park,)everthig at the mder,carb-etral brger-ad-shake shack BigWheel Burger is srcedfrm withi 100 miles,ad grass-fed, hrme-free beef is grd -siteever mrig. Its a cre-ative take the classic

America brger: t rderr brger mdd is tadd grav, ad a ghstbrger cmes with sacemade frm the wrldshttest pepper, the ghstpepper. Isiders tip: BigWheel is the pker hadlef e f the wers, whhappes t be a itera-tial champi.241 Cook Street250-381-0050bigwheelburger.com

Right i the heart fdwtw, d stp i atthe ew Bon Macaronshp r b a tri f

g me wh were

traied i their ativeFrace t make theselittle merige-baseddelicacies. ulike massprdced macars, theare baked ad assembled

b had sig all-atralesseces f laveder advilet grw fr the shpat Victrias Happ ValleFarm. Tr the bac adcream cheese, a srprisigbt delicis chice.1012 Broad Street778-265-0850bonmacaronpatisserie.com

Climb dw the stairsbeside the fishig dcks i

the harbr ad get readt wait i lie at RedFishBlueFish. y will be re-warded with the delicisseafd chwders adsalm taces (a sft-shell tac ce with peashts ad cleslaw) frmthis architectral take-trestarat i a shippigctaier. The seafd is100 per cet sstaiable,ad everthig is reccledad cmpsted i thiszer-waste ccept.1006 Wharf Street

250-298-6877redfish-bluefish.com

SIPWith ie micr-brew-eries withi tw kms fdwtw Victria, itseas (ad refreshig) ttaste r wa thrgh

the lcal sds. Start atSpinnakers (Caadasldest brew pb, est. 1984)where ales are paired withtheir hadmade trffles.The head t Rock Bay, theewl appited BrewerDistrict accrdig t RbDeshaie, a tr gidewith the Pedaler, t hitPhilips, Lighthouse, adHoyne, the latter presidedb Sea He, e f theareas tp brewmasters.

Still thirst? The MoonUnder the Water Brew

Pub, a beer bar servig 100per cet atral B.C. brews,is jst dw the wa.Shareable Grwlers(1.9 litre) are the ew six-pack. Brig them back fr arefill at Phillips fr jst $10.

Lcated i a histric bild-ig the dwtwwaterfrt, The Guild is aew pb peed b thesame dream team behidlegedar lcal restaratZambris. Its warm ad

dark as a pb shld be,bt the fd ad drik areqite a few tches pfrm r stadard pbgrb. yll fid classicslike sctch egg, plgh-mas lch ad Welshrarebit, ad ights glg ad late as the lcalcrwd gathers.1250 WharfStreet250-385-3474theguildfreehouse.com

ENJOYThe ew Victoria PublicMarket hses lcal

btchers, bakers adcadlestick makers ithe beatifl Hdsbildig (a frmer Badepartmet stre, a 15-mite walk frm theharbr). Idstrial-chiccffee shps ad a ht

ga stdi are alread iplace, ad a WedesdaFarmers Market ccpiesthe greewa.victoriapublicmarket.com

Lcated Victriasfashi-cetral JhsStreet, Amelia Lee dbsitself as the small b-tiqe with big stle. Itswed b fashi stlistKhle Campbell, whwrks with rck stars adreglar flks i eed fa fresh lk. need a littlebeat bst alg withthat great ew dress?The als d fax-eelashapplicatis.610 Johnson Street

250-388-5660amelialeeboutique.com

new bike tr cmpaThe Pedaler itrdceds t eighbrhdhtspts ad a whleew perspective thecit bed the ierharbr. Their B.C.-madenrc criser bikes arelightweight ad east ride, while the trsare ivative ad f:Hpp Hr takes t several micr-breweries(samples iclded, fcrse) ard this verbikeable cit.719 Douglas Street778-265-7433thepedaler.ca

It might cst slightlmre tha tw bits, btVictory BarbersandBrandis a mder mes barber-shp that des a great htlather shave ($45) ad

hses a apthecarf lcal ad imprtedmes grmig prdcts.If theres time, celebrate

r ew lk at Pig,a BBQ jit ext drwith a great plled prksadwich.1315 Blanshard Street

250-381-1522victorybarbers.com

VICTORIABy bike or on foot, Victoria offers upits idden gems

By SARAH BAnCRoFT

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Theres only one way to enjoy a West Coast storm. Stay dry. So when you find yourself drawn to the power of the waves, wind and breathtaking sceneryof Tofino and Ucluelet and you will remember, a successful storm watching trip starts with having the right wet weather gear.

The Killtec line of jackets available at Passages Gift Shop are the perfect addition to any storm watchers survival kit. Whether youre looking fora new way to stay fashionably warm and dry, or you conveniently forgot to pack yours from home, these are the jackets for you. Next time youreon board, come and check out this high-performance line for yourself available in a variety of different colours and discover a whole new way toweather the storm in style.

How to storm watch (& stay dry).

Ladies Keira Jacket

Waterproof and windproof, the Keira jacket is

also breathable so you can enjoy that perfect

storm in comfort.

Ladies Siona Fleece

Looking for something to wear inside the cabin?

Check out Killtecs fashionable fleece jackets.

Made from antipilling microfleece, you wont want

to take it off, even when youre back in the city.

Mens Alan Big Check Jacket

Made from microtwill and water resistant fabric, this

jacket will prepare you for any activity (stormy or not).

WEST CoAST SuRVIVAL GuIDE


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Explore BC

Discover over 50 road trip

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Visit HelloBC.com/BCRoadTrip to startplanning your trip today.

Registered trade-mark of Destination BC Corp.


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W

he I lived i ucle-let i the 1970s, wedidt have witerstrm watchig per

se bt thats t t sa we didtseak the dd peek. oe pst-gale daI wadered b a little cve the edgef tw, l t fid it piled severalmetres deep with sea fam. That pil-lw f sds was as high as the cedarsad shre pie: Mther natresbbble bath the da that the kidsthrew the whle bttle i ad left thetb rig.

British Clmbias thik the kwwiter strms. Cme octber, witharctic air t the rth ad sb-trpical

air t the sth, a lw-pressre sstemmves i, ad ce fr mths f raiad gra. Bt what a lt f pepledt realize is hw mch f theweather gets scrbbed awa thetrip ver Vacver Islad.

Victria receives well der a metref precipitati i a average ear adVacver abt 1.2, while uclelet e-dres fr. Mre tha half f that fallsbetwee nvember ad Febrar, adsme f this deserves the adjectivesidewas. Becase es, theres alsthe thig kw as wid. Fr a castal

tw uclelet ist particlarl breez,bt witer gales f 70 kms a hrad mre are t cmm.

The tre stars f this areas strms,hwever, are the waves, which are smef the biggest Earth fr a bchf reass. Theres the nrth Pacificsexpase, which gives its waves lts frm t grw; the prevailig westerlies,which psh them alg thse th-sads f kms; ad the steep rise f thectietal shelf, which lets them crashashre with mst f their eerg itact.

Drig the witer strms thattpicall blw p ever tw r threedas, the alread impressive swellsare spercharged ragig behemthsthat pd the rcks ad beaches tmesmerizig effect. Its a astishigatral pheme, whether viewed

frm a armchair with a fire , r rightthere the beach, clad i the strmgear that mder techlg hasgrated s. The waves bm, the waterspras, the wid bffets, ad there westad, awed, es, bt as cmfrtable asca be.

Back i the 1970s, as I said, pepleseemed stragel blivis t thiskid f thig. It wast til the 1990sthat trist peratrs ticed the ddpredilecti f a few hard visitrs tarrive i witer rather tha smmer,ad started marketig strm watchig

as a attracti.Ad the rest is histr. Where ce

accmmdatis were basic ad scarce,

tda the are prlific ad varied frm affrdable mtels thrgh titimate B&Bs ad grad ldges. Frexample, sice peig i 2009, thelxr Black Rck Resrt has bee areglar Tp Resrt lists cmpiled bCde nast Traveler ad thers. Wehave a Rmacig the Strm packagefr cples, ad a spa that lks rightt t the rcks, sas GM AdeleLarki, wh adds that, thgh italmst ever sws i uclelet, thesea fam blw b the wid makes fra cvicig facsimile.

Whatever the seas, mch f whatvisitrs experiece i places like ucle-let, Tfi ad the Pacific Rim natialPark that stretches betwee thesetws is de t witer strms.

All that driftwd tssed s farfrm the sea; the plverized sadthat started as rcks ad shells. Evethe vegetati has bee affected.The shrt ad garl shre pies aregeeticall similar t tall ad statelldgeple pie, while the Wester RedCedars, elsewhere s immese, takethe frm f weirdl stted cadela-bras, becase the leaders keep gettigblw ff. Trees like thse make fr atherwrldl cmbiati at the best

f times. Immerse them i a sea fsds, ad feel like re eterigather dimesi.h

Encounters

Big waves, raucous storms and romanceon Vancouver Islands west coastBy JIM SuTHERLAnD

Prpelled b prevailig westerl wids acrss the nrth Pacific expase, sme f the wrlds largest waves bild mmetm, evetall

crashig ashre B.C.s West Cast.

The waves

boom, the

water sprays,the wind

buffets, and

there we

stand, awed,

yes, but as

comfortable

as can be.

Photo:tourismtofiNo/JillNaNcy

SToRM WATCH


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There are das i Tfi whethe s shies dw, warmigits beaches ad strm-twistedcastal raifrest ad illmi-

atig the Pacific t a vibrat gree he.Bt its the predictable ad sme-times vilet strms f fall ad witerthat brig the big waves ad real srferst the wester edge f Vacver Islad.

Whe the rai falls sidewas, the airtemperatre hvers ard freezigad the cea ist mch warmer,thats whe the trcks ad vas flcals ad weeked warrirs lie thepddle-filled parkig lts f the PacificRim natial Park Reserve ear Flre-cia Ba, Lg Beach ad WickaiishBeach, the tell-tale plastic bis thathld their wetsits shved beeaththeir vehicles bmpers.

Thse das, if brave the drivigrai ad be-deep chill t stad the beach ad peer t it the agrcea, ca see their epree-hded heads bbbig abt, if the fgist t thick. Whe e paddles itthe path f a wall f heavig, gre wa-ter that threates t swallw them, ma be tempted t clse r ees.

Dt.B.C. srfers are i their elemet

i this cld, bri chas. I fact, ma

wait all ear fr it. This rgged der-takig is the iqe Caadia srfigexperiece.

Wrd abt Tfis srf cltre isdefiitel t. I 2010, u.S.-basedOutside magazie eve amed Tfithe Best Srf Tw i nrth America.yet while the medias atteti tsrfig i Caada is relativel ew,srfig i Tfi dates back t the1960s, whe America ex-pats addraft-ddgers brght the first srf-bards t the area. After a icba-ti perid that wet largel derthe radar i the 70s, ad a cple ffalse starts i the 80s, srfig fialltk ff i Caada i the 1990s tcicidetall as wetsit techlgbega t radicall imprve.

The, as the Iteret tk its rev-

ltiar hld ad the cre f srfiggrew eve bigger i places like Hawaiiad Califria, the timig was right frsrfig i Tfi et agai. Prfessialsrfers i ther ctries craved -crwded waves, ad s bega t mieterritr that it was thght peplewld ever be craz egh t srf,like Caada. The saw phtgraphs ftaleted Tfi srfers, sch as brthersad srf prs Raph ad Sepp Brhwiler,ad bega t pa visits t B.C.

Fast frward t 2009, whewetsit brad oneill added Tfi tits iteratial Cld Water Classictr, i which srfers frm ard thewrld cmpete t gai pits twardsqalifig fr srfigs glbal prfes-sial tr. I a fair tale edig,Tfi-br ad based srfer PeterDevries tk hme first prize. It wasa defiig mmet i Caadia srf-ig, ad it ispired et ather e.

Tfi has e f the highestmbers f female srfers per capitai the wrld, bt wme weretallwed t cmpete i oneills cm-petiti. Tfi srf schl Srf Sisterretaliated b creatig the Qee fthe Peak srf ctest, which will rfr its frth csective ear octber 5 ad 6.

We jst wat t create a evir-met where me ad wme areeqal i the water, Qee f the Peakc-fder Kriss Mtgmer tldMcClungs magazie earlier this ear,ad Tfis male srfers have ralliedhard behid her.

That kid f geder-etral sp-prt is t s tpical fr srfig,a sprt etreched with machism.Bt the, Tfis t r tpicalsrf tw.h

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14/32

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15/32


Racing troug BCs coastal terrainBy Joe Scwartz

Six das it the BC Bike Race, the dictiar defii-ti f the wrd sigletrack seems fittig. Mmetal rage is limited b the exhasti I feel afterhdreds f kms racig m mtai bike, ad b

the rigid fcs I mst maitai i rder t keep m bdad tw-wheeled machie i gd wrkig rder da iad da t.

The sigletrack Im referrig t here is t e f limitedbrai fcti, hwever. Its the term sed b mtai bikeriders t describe trails. I this case, its a wrld fams rtethat spas sme f B.C.s wildest ad mst spectaclar West

Cast terrai ad derpis the BC Bike Race, a aalseve-da 335-kilmetre test billed as the ultimate Sigle-track Experiece.

over 500 racers have travelled frm 26 ctries t cm-pete i this ears evet.

Traversig sme f the wrlds best mtai bike ter-rai, this sigletrack wids p ad dw the B.C. castlie.After pre-stagig i nrth Vacver ad travellig b ferrt naaim, riders gather i Cmberlad, ear Cmx Vacver Islad, t begi the race. Frm there we race rtht Campbell River befre sailig t the Sshie Cast wherethe race passes thrgh Pwell River, Lagdale ad pits ibetwee. o da six, we retr t the Mailad fr fial legsi Sqamish ad Whistler. Alg the wa, we weave thrgh

twerig stads f timber, scale mtais, whisk it lshvalles ad catch r breath at sceic viewpits ad ipictresqe tws.

This is mre tha a race it is a week-lg jre steepedi B.C.s castal sceer ad the welcmig atre f cmm-ities Vacver Islad, the Sshie Cast ad alg theSea t Sk Crridr. Frm savrig lcal cisie, meetig adridig with hdreds f like-mided idividals, t watchigthe verdat castlie drift b frm m perch abard a BC Fer-ries vessel, this is a mtai bike advetre like ther.

DAY ONE Cumberland, Vancouver Island

Riders ervsl fidget i the start crral, eagerl aticipatigthe sd f the startig pistl that will sed s barrelligdw Dsmir Avee algside the old West-themedstrefrts that lie histric Cmberlads mai street. orrte tda will take s it the hills where decades f calmiig ce felled this regis ecmic prsperit. Tda,mierals are lger beig plled frm the grd like thewere i the earl 1900s; istead these mtais are destia-tis fr hikers ad, f crse, mtai bikers like s.

Bsiesses like the Ridig Fl Hstel, Ddge Cit Ccles bikeshp ad the lcal bike-gidig tfit Islad Mtai Rideshave made it their missi t share the trails srrdigCmberlad. Cmbie this with dedicated lcal trail bilderscreatig miles f wrld-class sigletrack trails, ad have a

mtai bike destiati that is hard t beat.or BC Bike Race rte makes the mst f the trailbilders

effrts, ad the da peaks with a rck, excitemet-filled

Wild RideMore than a

contest the BCBike Race is a

week-long journeysteeped in B.C.scoastal scenery

and the welcom-ing nature of

communities onVancouver Island,

the SunshineCoast and the Sea

to Sky Corridor.

Whistler

NorthVancouver

Nanaimo

Langdale

Sechelt

Earls Cove

Cumberland

CambellRiver

Comox

PowellRiver


16/32


On Day 1, riders

barrel downhistoric Cumber-lands DunsmuirAvenue, overthe townsbridge and latercrest ForbiddenPlateau. On Day2, riders chal-lenged muddytrack amidvibrant greens ofthe forest nearCampbell River.

Photos:clockwisefromtoPleft:thisPage,e

rikPetersoN;margu

sriga;toddweselake(2);oPPositePage,m

argusriga(3);bottomright,d

avesilver

descet frm Frbidde Platea, high abve tw. M bikedaces dereath me as I charge dw the mtai, sak-ig p ever mmet f this ew atral resrce Cmber-lad is tappig it: frgettable mtai bike experieces.

DAY TWO Campbell River, Vancouver Island

The freetic startig pace f the leadig riders qickl giveswa t a peckig rder amg racers as we head it thetrails srrdig Campbell River.

I latch t a pair f riders frm Calgar; its their first timeridig west f the Rck Mtais. Mdd sectis lrk ithe wds frm the previs weeks rai, trig sme sec-tis f trail it erve-wrackig rllercaster rides. We wrkthrgh the difficlt bits, ad the sigletrack rewards s

the ther ed with swp, smth ctrs. As the vibratgrees f the frest blr i m peripherals, e f the Calgar-ias ells, I lve m bike!

The da eds at the BC Bike Race basecamp the sftgrasses f Willw Pit Park, i the heart f Campbell River.Thaks t a tet cit established b the teams f idstrisrace staff, all we have t d is lie i the shade, re-hdrate addze ff fr a while, sakig p sme restfl mmets befredier time. I wader ver t a crer f the park ad ji a

ga class, r b istrctr ad fellw racer Ra Leech. Mmscles appreciate a gd stretch, ad jdgig b the grasf ther racers prstrate mats ard me, s des evereelse.

DAY ThREE Powell River, te Sunsine Coast

Eagles sar verhead as we sail acrss the sceic Strait fGergia t the islated rther tip f the Sshie Cast the BC Ferries Qee f Brab. The fresh sea air fills mlgs as I fixate ctless pictresqe cves.

Arrivig i Pwell River, I reflect this tws tmltshistr f bm ad bst ccles kw t ma frestr-based ecmies. Mre recetl, Pwell River has tred tther frms f idstr, icldig ec-trism. Gatherigfrm the warm recepti we receive, the BC Bike Race is aperfect fit.

Departig the ferr ft, we walk p the mai street

twards the start lie with crwds f lcals cheerig s .Schl-age cheerleadig sqads perfrm acrbatics t therhthms f teeage percssiists pdig their drms.

Strewers had t watermel t racers, while bagpiperspa tribte frm a street crer.

Pwell Rivers cmmit spirit verflws t the trails aswell. Hdreds f peple lie a freshl bilt secti f sigle-track called Death Rattle, cheerig ecragemet ad rig-ig cwbells. Theres eve a fellw railig t rck athems his gitar ad batter-pwered amp. The eerg is electricas I mt m bike ad cascade m wa thrgh sme f themst ejable trail I have ever ridde.

That eveig we cvee fr dier at the lcal sprtscmplex. The hcke rik is devid f ice ad has beecverted it a diig vee cmplete with cadlelit tablesfitted with fresh tableclths ad silverware. Decrative whitelights adr the sides f the rik. Girls rller skates flatard servig lcal craft beer ad wie while we dig it ameal f barbeced prk rast, shrimp ad asparags pasta,

lcal rgaic veggies ad caramel-glazed cake fr dessert.Satiated b the herclea amts f fd we have jst

ejed, r atteti trs t a eveig f etertaimetfeatrig lcal talet. The ight is capped perfectl whe ateeager shffles awkwardl t the stage t sig smepp hits. Beltig t pitch-perfect tes, the thfl crersrprises evere. The adieces ethsiastic respsetrasfrms the mellw vibe it a scee frm America Idl.

DAY FOUR Earls Cove to Secelt, te Sunsine Coast

Fr ma f the iteratial racers the BC Bike Race attracts,sme f the mst memrable mmets f the week take

place bed the actal racig.This mrig, as the ferr sails thrgh Jervis Ilet r

wa frm Salter Ba t Earls Cve, racers crwd the decks,sappig phts f the wild ladscapes ad sakig p thewarm smmer s.

We start tdas stage right frm the Earls Cve ferrtermial ad straight it a frgivig rad climb. Thesmmer s, which felt s ice the decks f the Islad Skvessel, w beats dw mercilessl, casig rivlets f sweatt stig m ees. Tda is the Big oe a 61-kilmetre ff-rad jre that will take s all the wa t Sechelt. Were tcrisig alg the castlie either. We lik p lg sectis fthe S Caster Trail, a mlti-se dirt crridr that cectsseveral rral Sshie Cast cmmities. M legs cr t

fr a rest as I grid p expsed climbs der pwer lies adfllw the trail as it trs it shad frest fr a few mmetsf reprieve frm the bakig s.


17/32

As I apprach Sechelt, I pass a hadwritte sig thatprmises Cld Beer, 5 km. Kwig the fiish lie is eargives m legs ather brst f eerg. A cple kms f pavedrad fllw, ad the I am back it the wds fr atherstretch f trails, cmplete with several sl-crshig climbs.The last kilmetre seems t g frever, befre I fiallcast dw Sechelts steep residetial streets t the fiisharea. What a relief.

M legs are cked, ad m brai feels a little pached frm

the s. Remidig mself that tmrrw is ather da, Ig abt m tasks f drikig litres f water t repleish lstelectrltes ad washig m trst Ka Hei Hei biccle ipreparati fr the ext stage.

DAY FIVE Secelt to Langdale, te Sunsine Coast

The mrig daws cl ad refreshig, with castal mistgatherig i the mtais high abve Sechelt. Tdasstage, alg with the weather, feels rejveatig.

The race will brig its challeges, f crse, ad theclimb t f tw I wder whe m legs are gig t startperfrmig. As m mscles cme t life, I settle it the dailgrid. Its cmfrtig t kw a big effrt w will pa fflater. The race map prmises 700-metre-pls descet t thefiish lie at the Lagdale ferr termial.

Head dw, I slip it a smth rhthm, legs chrig asI steadil gai elevati. Thrgh the mist, I hear the ex-pected sds f a trmpet beltig t ld marchig tes.I pass the mtaitp msicia with a smile m facead prepare t drp it the fial slpes, the ferr termialfar belw.

The sigletrack takes s thrgh Sprckids Bike Park,the first micipal bike park f its kid i nrth America.The fder, Dg Detwiller, started the prgram t helpstdets scceed i schl. The rgaizati has sice helpedthsads f th discver the js f mtai bikig adstewardship, with cliics ad prgrams held all ver the wrld.

The rigial bike park has see ma chages ver its20-ear-pls histr ad cstatl evlves t meet theeeds f the Sshie Cast cmmit. I revel i the bikeparks craftsmaship as I sht t f sclpted crers adleap ver maicred jmps all the wa dw t the cea.

After fiishig tdas stage, riders bard the Queen ofSurrey. Hdreds f hgr racers la siege t the ships-bard restarats ad refel after a lg da the bikes.The 40-mite trip t the Mailad is als a chace t c-ect with ther riders ad share stries f the excitemet-filled last few das.

DAY SIx Squamis, te Sea to Sky Corridor

With hdreds f kilmetres f prpse-bilt mtaibike trails i the Sqamish area, the racecrse that is sett fr s tda is a selecti f sme f the best sigle-track this area has t ffer.

These trails are the reslt f ears f hard wrk bthe Sqamish off-Rad Cclig Assciati (SoRCA) adits dedicated trail bilders. Havig sccessfll fstered

relatiships with the B.C. gvermet, private ladw-ers, lggig cmpaies ad the Sqamish cmmit,SoRCA ad its parters have tred mtai bikig ita health ecmic geeratr fr the area.

As we lie p t start, I eagerl aticipate the awe-sme sigletrack that lies ahead, eve if m legs tell metherwise. This weeks phsical effrt is startig t catchp t me, bt I kw tda is the da t dig deep it mreserves ad la it all the lie. B tmrrw, fllwig arelativel shrt da, we will be i Whistler.

Racs e-clad cheerig sqads, bac ad dgh-t hadts tw hrs it the race, ad perfectlbilt trails make Sqamish a memrable stage, ad givesme a eergizig lift perfectl timed fr the races fialstage, tmrrw.

DAY SEVEN Wistler, te Sea to Sky Corridor

Tdas cmpact stage featres a climb ad descetthrgh the wrld-fams Whistler Bike Park, the itthe rck, twist sigletrack f Lst Lake. The climb p theBike Park is a steep, reletig affair, bt I crest t tpwith ethsiasm, ad I lach it the Crak It up tracks

jmps. Rcketig dw the trail, I pass peple i the airad the wide, baked crers arrivig at the bttmspet frm the effrt bt eergized b the ligerig ef-fects f adreali.

The rest f the da I resrt t atpilt, ever pedalstrke gettig me clser t the fiish lie. Deepl fcsed,the ed seaks p me, ad jst like that, the BC BikeRace is ver.

After cllectig m cveted Fiisher belt bckle, I rest ithe shade, metall prcessig the whle week. A sesef accmplishmet washes ver me alg with a tige fdisappitmet that this amazig experiece is ver.

Exhasted, Im glad I dt have t race tmrrw. Asm mid waders, I fid mself lkig frward t re-visitig the wild places we rde thrgh this frget-table jre.h

On Day 3, thesun rises over a

BCBR tent city inPowell River; Day

4 starts at theEarls Cove ferryterminal. Laterthat day, riderswend through

the Sun CoasterTrail, a multi-use

corridor thatconnects severalSunshine Coast

communities. OnDay 7, in Whistler,

a rider grabs a

piece of fruit fora final burst ofenergy to finish

the race.


18/32

ADVERTISEMEnT

fr ma parets, bardigschl is a wa t givetheir childre a pre-i-versit experiece statisti-

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ma reass that Richard adCherl Jebbik chse St. Michaelsuiversit Schl (SMuS) i Vic-tria fr their s Brade, whleft his hme i Frt McMrra tatted SMuS fr his Grade 12 ear.

Like all parets, we wat tesre r childre have everpprtit t reach their pte-

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20/32

Tw Tw ist s mch a tw as a gegraphic regi thatblesses a certai wa f life. y cld glide right past it rwa t the ed f the rad, bed the epms Tw Hill.Distracted b the therwrldl sceer, might keep drivigtill r wheels hit seawater as the rad fades it sad. Bedthat, nrth Beach crves awa like a lg, pale scthe, jttig ttwards Alaska.

Smewhere betwee the micipal bdar sig f Massetad bed where the pavemet trs t gravel. Alg a stretchf rad that parallels the castlie, with a few braches that edi cl-de-sacs. Thats where the deizes f the Tw Hill Cmm-it (T.H.C.) reside. A lse cllecti f flks the mber abt150 bt a tight cmmit etheless.

Thirt ears ag there was little at the ed f the rad bedthe remats f the first hard hmesteaders ad a clam ca-er, a w defct resrt, ad the ghst f a ld Haida village.Thgh nrth Beach has alwas bee a imprtat fd gather-ig area fr the Haida. The came fr lack f a better wrd hippies wh lived i shacks ff the beach. These ihabitats, whhave bee called everthig frm Tw Twers ad Tw Hillbilliest Dreadecks ad Earth Mffis, have staed lg egh traise a secd geerati.

Sme might see them as a ew strai f bhemia, thghthe wld likel bject t beig called e. yre as likel t seee with a chaisaw i their hads as a srfbard r a klele.

By Masa Takei y will hear it fte,abt sme places, I came fr a visitad ever left. I m case, I firstvisited Haida Gwaii eight ears ag,ad it wast til five ears laterthat I fiall made m mve. Im fteasked abt the cmmit here. I

ca l speak as a ewcmer, mexperiece filtered thrgh m biasesad ifleced b the stries that Iveheard. Idividal mileage ma var.


Tow hillCommunity(haida Gwaii)Te

From top:Visitors wishingto experienceTow HillCommunity canrent a rusticcabin or stayat provincial

campgroundsincluding AgateBeach (picturedtop). Nearby, TowHills communityof about 150residents chooseto live a simplerlife, many ofthem off of theelectricity grid.


21/32


A dream catcher the rearview mirrr f their trck perhaps. Tsme twies thgh, there still jst plai hippies.

It is t jst t tward the ed f the rad, bt als ear theed f the pwer lie. Ma here live, r have lived, ff-grid bchice. Eve fr sme f thse wh settled withi a stes thrwf the lie, the chse t t be hked p. Beig cected ist

jst abt bills, ad ispectrs, ad the prliferati f ever-thig that plgs i. Livig ff-grid is a state f beig. It meassplittig wd fr warmth, halig r water. Ad ce retakig care f thse basics f existece, its l atral t exted

r thghts t cllectig r w fd.Here the frests are lade with deer, mshrms, berries ad

ther chice edibles, the cea fll f fish, shellfish ad crabs.Frm bth, a vast sppl f wd, t fel stves r be milled itbildig materials. Water qite literall falls frm the sk t becllected it barrels. This existece makes cscis feverthig that se ad appreciate what ve gt. It meashelpig t ad eedig the help f thers. It fsters beig c-ected t the lad ad peple.

Residets f the Tw Hill Cmmit live i everthig frmshacks bilt f plastic sheetig stretched ver wde framest hadcrafted hmes filled with elegat cstm cabietr adshi mder appliaces. Bt ma started at sme pit withraw lad ad a hammer. The simple life is t eas. Thats whatmakes it rewardig. The allre f mder cveiece is irresist-ibl strg. Bt here at least, re cscis f the differece

betwee r wats ad eeds.The peple here aret easil pigehled, thgh I seem t

be trig, ad cat be paited as a archetpe. Lcal residetshave iclded a fams pet ad a ce prlific bak rbber,a Germa pera siger ad a Kiwi lawer, a prmaiac ad aTta mechaic, a libraria ad a gat farmer, carpeters adbeachcmbers, circs jgglers ad kaak gides, mshrm pick-ers ad tree platers, frmer activists ad aarchists, retired cpsad sldiers. Ma are a cmbiati f the abve.

There mre defied b hw the chse t live rather thahw the make their livig. The empt srf breaks were a majrdraw fr sme residets ad are still a sigificat part f thelifestle tda. There ma be as ma reass as there are peplefr ladig here, bt there are cmm bds that bid them.

There are plet f ther little cmmities t there harbr-ig refgees frm cit life. The peple f Tw Hill live a islad,with all that islad livig etails. The added remteess ad is-lati draws peple tgether, remves amit. Evere whcmes mst cme b plae r bat. It takes effrt t get here. ne jst happes t be passig thrgh.

Ad thats perhaps e f the reass that the Tw HillCmmit is s iclsive ad welcmig. If ve ge t thetrble t get here ad egage with the lcals (which cld beas simple as rderig a cffee at The M over naik Bakerad smilig at the pers ext t ), the the will geerallreciprcate r iterest.

These are places where ever pers is a idividal istead fa particle i a ams wash f hmait. Places where wrkis de with es hads ad actis have real cseqeces.Where a pers with skills cld shw p, thrw dw smetls, ad witht adherece t mch mre tha phsics adlgic, make a hme ad bild a life.h

For locals, Tow Hillslifestyle means

hunting, fishingand gathering

food, collectingfresh water and

hand crafting othernecessities.


22/32


Cedar paddles cleched iervs hads, 30 gpaddlers frm Masset adSkidegate prepared fr the

jre f a lifetime, deep it thelad f their acestrs. Ahead fthem a three-da cae trip thewild Pacific t reach Hlkah Gaw-

wGa, Wid Ba, the l break iLell Islads icredibl rgged adrck easter cast.

Fr mst f them, the vage wast l their first i a traditialHaida cae, it wld be their firstvisit t the itact frests ad acietHaida village sites f the wrld-re-kwed Gwaii Haaas natial Park

Reserve, natial Marie Cserva-ti Area ad Haida Heritage Site.

Here, a s da i WidBas remte ad aciet Haidavillage, the th helped celebrateGwaii Haaass 20th aiversar,with the Agst 16, 2013, raisig fthe first traditial mmetal

ple i the park area i 130 ears.We reall gt a appreciati

fr the ld peple, explaiedSkidegates nic yrk, whsebrther Tler helped carve the ple.

We wrked reall hard jst tpaddle three das t get here, btthe wet all the wa acrss t theMailad i dgt caes.

These th have grw p withthe stries f hw, here Lell Isladi 1985, their elders tk a stad,blckadig lggig peratis tprtect these islads. Fiall, after

ears f ctrvers, the 1993 GwaiiHaaas Agreemet brght tgetherthe Caadia federal gvermet

ad the Haida nati i a grd-breakig c-maagemet deal tsteward the islads frever, despitemajr differeces i pii withrespect t wership.

Fr a ear the watched Massetcarver Jaale Edeshaw brig theLegac Ple t life i the carvig shedat the Haida Heritage Cetre at Ka

Young paddlers voyage into istoryBy DAVE QuInn

Encounters

RISE uP!

Featuring


23/32


hw t paddle a cae ad camp the lad. Its part f r cltre.

uder the impsig mist-greshape f Lell Islad, the icic sqarebws f the tw caes rde high the Hecate Strait swell with a eas,timeless rhthm as the apprachedWid Ba.

The sd f pwerfl gvices ited i paddle sg rdedthe rck headlad befre the caesetered the ba. Fiall the bats ap-prached the beach with a rhthmicthmp f praised paddles thewde gels. over 400 relativesad visitrs, ma f whm weredressed i fll regalia f btt bla-

kets ad cedar bark hats, greeted thecaes. Mre tha a few ees flwedlike the seawater that dripped frmthe cedar paddles.

After a timeless cerem, 800hads heaved six thick rpes, adthe 14-metre cedar ple leapt prightit the pre-dg pit as if b magic.

A live satellite feed trasmitted theevet glball, as a cheer i Wid Bawas eched b thsads p-islad.

The gre ples i the acietvillages are earl ge, bt these

g paddlers are helpig chart aew histr, with the begiig fthe ext geerati f Haida m-metal art i Gwaii Haaas.h

Llaga (Skidegate). I additi t tra-ditial Eagle, Dg ad Sclpi figres,the str icldes a visitr ad fivefigres with liked arms, represetigthe blckaders.

Leadig the jre, elders like Rb-ert Wils acted as steersme. Kwt all as Captai Gld, Wils fded

the Haida Gwaii Watchme prgram ithe earl 1980s t safegard the acietvillages. As steersma fr the Skidegatecae, he safel gided bth the vesselad the ftre f Haida cltre.

Bed steerig the bat, sas Cap-tai Gld, teeth shiig der a silvermstache, glasses ad a persalizedball cap, his jb was t teach these kids

After a timeless

ceremony, 800

hands heaved on

six thick ropes,

and the 14-metre

cedar pole leapt

upright into thepre-dug pit as if

by magic.

This Agst, the first mmetal ttem ple i 130 ears was raised i Gwaii Haaas. Pictred left t right: Skidegate paddler nic yrk( ppsig page); the Masset Cae eters Wid Ba; Drmmer ad carver D Edeshaw keeps the sg alive while the ple ges p.

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travellers the complete package: Four-Diamond cuisine, casual dining, a 14,000 square foot athletic club

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Call us at 1-800-663-7550 and ask for the exclusive BC Ferries onBoard Rate. Based on availability, September 2013 March 2014.

An ideal experience begins withthe perfect location.


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Encounters

Into te lair of te great bearsBy MARK SISSonS

GREAT BEAR RAInFoREST

Imagie takig a ce-i-a-lifetime jre t e f thewrlds last remaiig trlwild places, s remte that

its cmpletel black at ight satellite images.

B.C.s Great Bear Raifrest (GBR)is sch a magical place. The wrlds

largest remaiig tract f spiledaciet temperate raifrest, thisvast, mstl ihabited archipelagtwice the size f the Seregeti wasamed fr the Grizzlies, Americablack bears ad mstical, white Spiritbears that ihabit its thickl frestedislads ad ilets. Stretchig frmthe rther tip f Vacver Islad

t the Alaska brder, the GBR is alshme t ctless species f birds,marie life ad ther mammals,icldig castal wlves that caht salm frm streams like bearsad swim like sea tters.

Tda, ca crise the famedIside Passage abard BC Ferries

alg the cast f this magificetlrgged, rai-swept wilderess.up here, swcapped peaks lmver precipits, frested fjrdsthat plge it deep dark chaelwaters, ad mist ligers i thetag salt air, liftig t reveal rai-bws gracig a wrld f tchedatral beat.

Frm Price Rpert, ca travel tthe famed Khtzematee r Valle fthe Grizzl t view the residet rsiepplatis i their atral evir-met. or take a whale watchig crisead view orca whales, Hmpbacks,prpises ad seals.

As explre sme f the same

seclded bas, marsh ilets adswift- flwig chaels that earlErpea explrers ce chartedad First natis peples have calledhme fr thsads f ears, watchfr whales, wlves, dlphis adgrizzlies. I late Agst r September,

ma eve spt the elsive Spiritbear, which rarel emerges frm deepwithi the frests til fall salmspawig seas.

Watchig a 400-pd grizzl adher flff cb grazig shreliesedges ad giat-leafed skk cab-

bage frm the safet f r zdiacis frgettable. Mchig their watward the waters edge, the bearstake trs rearig p hid legs tlcate each ther i the tall sedge.Thats whe the cb lks right at ,ad the magic f this mmet hitshme: deep withi a timeless wrlds remte, rgged ad spectaclarlsceic, ve fiall etered the lair fthe great bears.h

Recommended

Tours:Prince Rupert

Adventure Grizzly

Bear Tour

ffers a crise tthe pristie

wilderess f theKhtzematee Valle

Prince Rupert

Adventure Tours

ffers fll-da bearviewig excrsis i

the KhtzemateeGrizzl Bear Sactar,

frm mid-Ma til

Agst, ad hmpbackwhale watchig trs

til mid-octber.

Both offers available at

bcferries.com/vacations

Photo:tourism

bc/tomryaN

Yes!You deserve it.

CREST HOTEL

222 First Ave. W.Prince Rupert, BC1800-663-8150cresthotel.bc.ca

PRINCE RUPERT, BC


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26/32

Encounters

Victoria lays out welcome mat for pet loversBy MARK SISSonS AnD JEnnIFER SEARS

PET FRIEnDLy

Thikig f takig r frrfried r ext trip tVictria? If chse

r ldgig well, thereslittle eed t pla ahead. Istead, fra additial charge, ca expect

hse-baked dggie welcme bis-cits, a cmf dggie bed, stailesssteel bwls ad lcatis well sitedfr walks ad stick fetchig.

We believe pets are part f thefamil, sas Ia Pwell, MaagigDirectr at the I at Larel Pit.

Bed ameities like thse me-

tied abve, the I at Larel PitsPampered Pet prgram icldes amap f pplar walkig lcales, likeFishermas Wharf, ogde Pit,Beac Hill Park ad Dallas Rad Victrias best spt fr jggig, dgwalkig ad peple watchig. ElkLake, e rte t Swartz Ba, als hasfabls trails.

The staff at the ewl revatedDelta Victria ocea Pite Resrtad Spa, sitated the cits pictr-esqe Ier Harbr, als welcmegests with small- t medim-sizedcats ad dgs.

If are shppig fr r pet,oak Ba retailer Bark, Bath & Bed

will bathe r dg while grablch r brwse the stre f earbshps.

BC Ferries ships als featre pet-friedl areas.

With cmfrts like these awaitig,eve the mst discerig pch visit-ig Victria will likel wat t sit, staad pla.h

Pet-friendlypacking tips:

Fr a fetchig gd time,csider brigig the

fllwig:

Blakets ad/r bed Recet phtgraph f

r pet

Pp bags Fd ad water bwl

Extra leash (i case egets lst r brke) Medicatis ad

Vaccie recrds Paper twel r wet aps

Vet ctact Treats, ts ad bes

Photo:istockPhoto.c

om

Dine out at sea.

The Pacific Buffet

Enjoy fresh West Coast inspiredcuisine and 180 ocean views all for $22 or less.

bcferries.com/onboard-experiences


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Within reach, beyond words.

Fall packages include 8 nightsaccommodation and ferry

travel from Metro Vancouver

to Vancouver Island, and

Port Hardy to Prince Rupert.

Inside PassageWilderness Circle Tour

$

819

*

per person/dbl. occ.

from

*Plus taxes, fees and surcharges. All offers based on availability. Prices are quoted per person in Canadian dollars based on double occupancy. Some restrictions apply. BC Reg. 48839.


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Thetis Island

Penelakut Island

Rail

toJa

spe

r

BC Ferries Routes

Railroad

Highways


CHooSE youR CouRSE

Were we sailBritish Clmbia Ferr Services Ic. (BC Ferries) is e f the largest ferr peratrs i the wrld, prvidig ear-rd vehicle ad passeger service 25 rtes t 47 termials, with a fleet f 35 vessels.

Inside BC Ferries


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Powell River Queen

Built:1965, VictoriaMaximum Speed:14.5 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:400

Quadra Queen 2Built:1969, VancouverMaximum Speed:12.5 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:150

Queen of BurnabyBuilt:1965, Victoria

Maximum Speed:16.5 knotsCar Capacity:192

KwunaBuilt:1975, VictoriaMaximum Speed:9.5knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:150

Queen of CowichanBuilt:1976, Victoria

Maximum Speed:20.5 knotsCar Capacity:360 including12 semis

Queen of NanaimoBuilt:1964, VictoriaMaximum Speed:16.5 knotsCar Capacity:192

Tenaka

Built:1964, VancouverMaximum Speed:12.0 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:100

Klitsa


Tachek


KuperBuilt:1985 - Lengthened in 2006

Maximum Speed:10 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:269

Northern AdventureBuilt:2004Maximum Speed:20.5 knotsCar Capacity:101

Queen of SurreyBuilt:1981, Vancouver


QuinitsaBuilt:1977, VancouverMaximum Speed:9.75 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:300

Queen of Coquitlam

Built:1976, VancouverMaximum Speed:20.5 knotsCar Capacity:360 including12 semis

Kahloke


Queen of ChilliwackBuilt:1978, NorwayMaximum Speed:12.5 knotsCar Capacity:115

Queen of Oak BayBuilt:1981, Victoria


Queen of AlberniBuilt:1976, VancouverMaximum Speed:21.0 knotsCar Capacity: 290 including24 semis

Queen of Cumberland

Built:1992, VancouverMaximum Speed:13 knotsCar Capacity: 127

Northern Expedition

Built:2009, GermanyMaximum Speed:21 knotsCar Capacity:130

North Island Princess

Built:1958, VancouverMaximum Speed:13 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:150

Bowen Queen


Howe Sound QueenBuilt:1964, QuebecMaximum Speed:9.75 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:300

Island SkyBuilt:2008, Vancouver

Maximum Speed:16 knotsCar Capacity:125

Coastal InspirationBuilt:2008, GermanyMaximum Speed: 23 knotsCar Capacity:370 including32 semis

Quinsam


Mayne QueenBuilt:1965,VictoriaMaximum Speed:14.5 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity: 400

Coastal Renaissance

Built:2007, GermanyMaximum Speed:23 knotsCar Capacity: 370 including32 semis

Nimpkish

Built:1973, VancouverMaximum Speed:11 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:125

Skeena QueenBuilt:1997, VancouverMaximum Speed:17.3 knotsCar Capacity:100

Queen of CapilanoBuilt:1991, Vancouver

Maximum Speed: 12.6 knotsPassenger & Crew Capacity:451

Queen of New Westminster

Built:1964, VictoriaMaximum Speed:20 knotsCar Capacity:270

Coastal CelebrationBuilt:2008, Germany

Maximum Speed:23 knotsCar Capacity:370 including32 semis

Spirit of Vancouver IslandBuilt:1994, VictoriaMaximum Speed:19.5 knotsCar Capacity:410 (w/o platforms)including 34 semis

Spirit of British Columbia



Fr mre ifrmati abt r vessels, visit bcferries.cm

Our fleet

Northern Expedition


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What made you want to pursue a

career with BC Ferries?Whe I mved t Vacver i 1992ad first lked t at Eglish Ba,I was amazed b all the ships. S, Icalled the castgard ad asked them,What d I eed t d t get t ef thse ships?

How does someone become aBC Ferries captain?

First eed t get r sea-timewrkig as a deckhad. It tk meabt six ears befre I gt mavigati ticket at the Pacific MarieTraiig Istitte (PMTI) where lear chart-wrk, hw t stabilize thebat, hw t lad ships ad abt shipcstrcti. I cld practicall bilda ship!

Do you have a favourite memory

from your days as a deckhand?I remember I was cleaig the bridge the vessel ad m clleageSsae (pictred bttm right) saidt me, oe da were gig t be phere! Im gig t be the captai ad

re gig t be the chief fficer.

Ad I said, n, ll be the chieffficer ad Ill be the captai! Well,mabe we ca bth be the captai Abt tw ears ag, r dream cametre Im the captai ad shes theSeir Chief Steward f the Queen ofSurrey. Dreams d cme tre withpersistece.

What do you remember from your

first day as a captain?Whe I had ctrl f the ship fr thefirst time, I kew right the, that thisis where I belg. I am fiall here adthis is what I am sppsed t be digi m life.

What is the most challenging aspectof your job?Dckig. yr challege is t d the

perfect dckig ever time. There arealwas ma factrs t csider cr-ret, wid, weather, fg, prplsifrm the ther ships.

What is the coolest thing youve seen

from your captains chair?There are dlphis ad there arewhales, bt the clest thig I have

ever see is deer swimmigacrss the cea! We weresailig betwee Gambier adBwe Islad ad I saw thesedeer heads bbbig p addw i the water. I was likewait a mite, thse thigshave hrs!

Where do you like to vacation

on B.C.s coast?Tfi. The wide pe cea iss rgh ad rgged. Mst fthe beaches are prtected ad itis s beatifl t there.

Whats your favourite menu itemfrom the Coastal Cafe?

Defiitel the Tsca chickepasta.

Whats the one word youd useto describe a BC Ferries captain?Frtate. The passegers aregreat ad I lve all the crew weare like a famil ad we have alt f f tgether. There is a rea-s I have bee with BC Ferriesfr 21 ears! h

Inside BC Ferries

From deckand to te command bridgeQ&A with Master Jan Shalagan, Captain, Queen of Surrey

By AnGELA SouCIE

When I had

control of the

ship for the

first time,

I knew rightthen that

this is where

I belong.

CREW CLoSE-uP


Photos:keNtkallberg


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