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TRANSCRIPT
Get paid to design jewelry!
Margaret Hefner
FabJob Guide to
Become a Jewelry
Designer
Visit www.FabJob.com
ContentsAbout the Author....................................................................................9Acknowledgments................................................................................10
1. Introduction ..........................................................................................111.1 About Designing Jewelry ............................................................12
1.1.1 Jewelry Past to Present .......................................................121.1.2 What a Jewelry Designer Does .........................................131.1.3 BenefitsoftheCareer .........................................................17
1.2 Inside This Guide .........................................................................19
2. How to Design Jewelry.......................................................................212.1 CommonTypesofJewelry ..........................................................21
2.1.1 Earrings ................................................................................222.1.2 Neckpieces ...........................................................................232.1.3 Bracelets ...............................................................................232.1.4 Rings .....................................................................................242.1.5 Others ..................................................................................24
2.2 Jewelry Materials ..........................................................................262.2.1 Metal .....................................................................................262.2.2 Beads ....................................................................................282.2.3 Gemstones and Synthetics.................................................312.2.4 Malleables and Moldables .................................................322.2.5 Natural Materials ................................................................34
2.3 EquipmentandSupplies .............................................................352.3.1 WorkspaceEquipment .......................................................362.3.2 Hand Tools...........................................................................382.3.3 BeadingSupplies ................................................................442.3.4 Soldering Tools....................................................................462.3.5 Findings,Stampings,andFinishing ................................492.3.6 SupplierstoUse ..................................................................52
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2.4 The Design Process ......................................................................532.4.1 DevelopingYourIdeas ......................................................542.4.2 Sketching It Out ..................................................................572.4.3 ChoosingYourMaterials ...................................................602.4.4 PatternsorMolds ................................................................612.4.5 SamplesandPrototypes ....................................................622.4.6 EthicsandCopyright .........................................................64
2.5 MakingYourOwnJewelry .........................................................652.5.1 HealthandSafety ...............................................................652.5.2 Soldering ..............................................................................662.5.3 Filing .....................................................................................702.5.4 Saw-Piercing ........................................................................712.5.5 Wirework .............................................................................73
2.6 Outsourcing Production ..............................................................752.6.1 CommunicatingYourDesignIdeas .................................752.6.2 AreasofProductionExpertise ..........................................772.6.3 FindingProductionSpecialists .........................................81
3. Preparing for Your Career ..................................................................833.1 SkillsYou’llNeed .........................................................................84
3.1.1 SenseofAestheticsandDesign ........................................843.1.2 Hand-EyeCoordination ....................................................863.1.3 Creativity .............................................................................873.1.4 CommunicationSkills ........................................................873.1.5 Sales Ability .........................................................................88
3.2 LearningonYourOwn ...............................................................893.2.1 StudyonYourOwn ............................................................903.2.2 DesignforYourselfandFriends .......................................943.2.3 Work with Jewelry ..............................................................953.2.4 TradeshowsandCraftFairs ..............................................983.2.5 FindaProfessionalMentor .............................................100
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3.3 Formal Education .......................................................................1033.4 InternshipsandApprenticeships .............................................1053.5 WorkshopsandShortCourses .................................................106
4. GettingHired .....................................................................................1094.1 TypesofEmployers ....................................................................109
4.1.1 FashionJewelryManufacturers ......................................1104.1.2 IndependentJewelers’Studios .......................................1104.1.3 FineJewelryShops ...........................................................112
4.2 HowtoFindJobOpenings.......................................................1124.2.1 PositionstoApplyFor .....................................................1134.2.2 Finding Advertised Positions ..........................................1144.2.3 FindUnadvertisedPositions ...........................................115
4.3 Job Hunting Materials ...............................................................1184.3.1 YourResume .....................................................................1184.3.2 CoverLetter .......................................................................1194.3.3 Portfolio ..............................................................................1224.3.4 FinishedJewelrySamples ................................................127
4.4 Interviews ....................................................................................1284.4.1 HowtoPrepare .................................................................1284.4.2 MakingaGreatImpression .............................................1304.4.3 Interview Questions .........................................................1314.4.4 SalaryExpectations ..........................................................134
5. Starting Your Own Business............................................................1355.1 GettingStarted ............................................................................136
5.1.1 YourUniqueConcept ......................................................1375.1.2 CreatingaBusinessPlan .................................................139
5.2 FinancialMatters ........................................................................1465.2.1 Start-upCosts ....................................................................1465.2.2 OperatingCosts ................................................................1485.2.3 KeepingTrackofYourFinances .....................................150
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5.2.4 GettingFinancing .............................................................1515.3 LegalMatters ...............................................................................156
5.3.1 ChoosingaName .............................................................1575.3.2 ChoosingaBusinessLegalStructure .............................1605.3.3 Licenses and Permits ........................................................1655.3.4 Insurance ............................................................................1665.3.5 AccountingandTaxes ......................................................168
5.4 SettingupYourWorkspace .......................................................1715.4.1 ChoosingaLocation ........................................................1715.4.2 SettingupaRetailSpace ..................................................1745.4.3 OrganizingYourWorkshop ............................................1775.4.4 EquipmentandSupplies .................................................1795.4.5 StudioSafety ......................................................................182
5.5 EmployeesandContractors ......................................................1835.5.1 EmployeeorContractor ..................................................1845.5.2 GettingReadytoHire ......................................................1855.5.3 ChoosingYourNewEmployee ......................................1865.5.4 OutliningJobResponsibilities ........................................190
5.6 SettingYourPrices ......................................................................1915.6.1 Wholesale vs. Retail Pricing ............................................1915.6.2 Profitability ........................................................................1925.6.3 CalculatingPrice ...............................................................193
5.7 FulfillingOrders .........................................................................1955.7.1 Establishing a Delivery Date ...........................................1955.7.3 AcceptingPayment ..........................................................2005.7.4 Managing Wholesale Accounts ......................................2035.7.5 Invoicing ............................................................................206
5.8 ConsigningYourJewelry ..........................................................2085.8.1 ConsignmentBasics .........................................................2085.8.2 ConsignmentContracts ...................................................2095.8.3 TrackingYourConsignmentInventory .........................210
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6. Marketing and Selling Your Designs ............................................2136.1 Marketing Tools ..........................................................................213
6.1.1 Printed Materials .............................................................2146.1.2 Website ...............................................................................2186.1.3 Social Media ......................................................................2246.1.4 PortfolioofWork ..............................................................2276.1.5 FinishedSamples ..............................................................2286.1.6 Style Sheets and Price Lists .............................................229
6.2 Marketing Techniques ...............................................................2336.2.1 Advertising ........................................................................2336.2.2 Free – Or Almost Free - Publicity ...................................237
6.3 Selling to Individuals .................................................................2426.3.1 CraftShowsandGalleries ...............................................2426.3.2 The Internet .......................................................................245
6.4 Finding Wholesale Buyers ........................................................2476.4.1 ContactingPotentialBuyers ............................................2476.4.2 PresentingYourJewelry ..................................................2486.4.3 AttendingIndustryTradeshows ...................................2496.4.4 HiringaSalesRep ............................................................253
6.5 Succeeding ...................................................................................256
7. Succeeding as a Jewelry Designer ..................................................2607.1 SuccessStory: MeetAnneSportun .........................................2617.2 SuccessStory: MeetFrancesSmersh .......................................2637.3 SuccessStory: MeetJeanneJohngren .....................................265
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1. IntroductionForyearsyoumayhavebeensayingtoyourself,“Iwouldlovetobemakingjewelryforaliving.”Well,congratulations!Hereyouare,em-barkingontherealizationofyourdream.
Jewelrydesignisacreativecareerofferingdiverseopportunities.Ajew-elrydesignercanworkincloseconnectionwiththefashionworld,ormayidentifymoreasasculptorofwearableart.
Youmayaspiretoworkforacompanydesigningjewelryformanufac-tureandhigh-volumedistribution,oryoumaychoosetoworkfromahomestudiodesigningcustompiecesforindividuals. Youmaywishtoworksolelyfromyourowninspiration,makingandselling your work to galleries or boutiques, or taking your work on the roadtocraftshowsnearandfar.
Thoughjewelrydesignersmaynotexperiencefameinthesamewaythatappareldesignersmight,somesuchasKennethJ.Lane,RobertLeeMorrisandJudithRipkahaveestablishedthemselvesaswell-known
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namesinthefield.Others,whosenamesmaynotbeaswidelyknown,havedevelopedareputationwithinaparticularniche.
Whetheryourgoalistodevelopanameforyourselfincelebritycircles,toworkbehindthescenesforabigdesignerlabel,ortosetyourselfupinastudiodesigningone-of-a-kindpieces,thiscareerofferstheoppor-tunity to make a living using your creativity.
Acombinationofhardwork,determinationandadrivingpassionareallrequiredtobringyourdreamtolife—choosingthisbookwillgetyouoffontherightfoot.
1.1 About Designing JewelryLookaroundyou:almosteveryoneiswearingsomeformofjewelry.Allthesepeople,allthesebodypartstoadorn!Thiswide,wonderfulworldofornamentpresentssomanypossibilities.
Awatch,forexample,isapieceofjewelrythatsatisfiesafunction.Aweddingbandissymbolicofacommitment.Apendant,suchasacru-cifix,maybewornasasymbolofanindividual’sbelief,orincommem-orationofaritual.Alocketiswornasmemento.Jewelrymayalsobeanheirloom, or a souvenir. Somepeoplechangetheirjewelryasoftenastheychangeclothes—theyapproachjewelryasafashionaccessory.Othersmaywearapartic-ularpieceofjewelrytoexpresshowtheyfeel,ortoinfluencehowtheyfeel.Manybelievecertainstonesormetalshavecurativepropertiesthatcanaffectemotionalorphysicalhealthandwell-being.
Jewelrycanalsoassertasocialpositionbydeclaringwealthandstatus.Forsome,thealterationofthebodytoaccommodatethejewelry,suchaswithpiercings,becomespartofapersonalorsocialstatement.
1.1.1 Jewelry Past to PresentJewelryisnearlyasoldascivilization.Infact,accordingtoarecentreportbyNational Geographic, human beings may have been adorning themselvesasfarbackas75,000yearsago.
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Garlandsofflowersadornedheadsandencirclednecks,braceletswo-venfromgrassesandreedswerewrappedaroundarmsandlegs,andstrung-togethershells,alsousedascurrency,wouldallhaveprecededtheworkingofmetal.
Initsearlyincarnations,jewelryheldanotherimportantpurpose:thespiritual.Amuletsorcharmswereworntoinvokemagicorspiritsforprotection,goodhealth,fertility,andfortune,aswellastorepelevil.
Overtime,thepurposeofjewelryevolvedtomarkingoccasionsandritesofpassage,todenotingsocialstandinganddeclaringwealth(andascurrencyitself),andtobeingregardedpurelyasornamentsofbeauty.
Modernmuseumsarearichsourceforresearch.Therewecanwitnesstheevolutionofjewelryinoursociety,andrecognizehowthedesignsofancientornamentarenotsofarremovedfromthedesignsofmodernjewelry.Ifyouareinterestedinthehistoryofjewelry,thewebsiteoftheVictoria&AlbertMuseuminLondon,Englandmaintainsalistofweb-sitesrelatedtothehistoryofjewelrydesign,fromthemostancienttothemostcontemporary.Youcanseethelistatwww.vam.ac.uk/page/j/jewellery/ .
Todaythemarketforhandcraftedjewelryiseverywhere,andcrossesallpopulationdemographics.Jewelryappealstogirlsandwomenofall ages. Men and boys wear and use certain accessories, and jewelry is apopulargiftitem,aswellasaneasyitemfortouriststopurchaseandtravel with.
1.1.2 What a Jewelry Designer DoesAsajewelrydesigner,whatyoudoday-to-daywilldependonwheth-eryouareemployedbyacompany,orworkingforyourself;whetherthe jewelry is handmade by you or made by others according to your designs;whethertheprocessrequiresbasichandtoolsorcommercialmanufacturingtechniques;andwhethertheworksareone-of-a-kindanddestinedforspecificclients,oriftheyareproducedinquantity.
Chapter2ofthisguidewillgiveyoudetailedinformationonhowtodesignjewelryandhowyouwillspendyourtimeinthiscareer.Asa
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basic introduction you should know now that your daily activities may include:
•Usingcomputerprogramstocreatejewelrydesigns
•Communicatingyourdesignstoamodelmaker
•Orderingfindingsandbeadsfromcatalogs
•Meetingwithmanufacturerstodiscussproductionpractices
• Networking with other designers
•Stayinguptodatewithfashiontrends
• Meeting with clients to determine their interests and needs
•Visitingmuseumsandotherplacesforcreativeinspiration
• Sketching your design ideas
•Applyingforgrants
•Experimentingwithnewtechniques
•Promotingyourselfandyourdesignstopotentialclients
•Participatingintradeshows
Jewelry designers are able to choose where they wish to be on the scale oftrends:astrend-makers,ridingthewavesoftrends,orresistingtrends. Even handmade jewelry is subject to trends, because the market is,forthemostpart,trend-driven. Keepinmindthatjewelryreflectslifestyle:wherewillyourcustom-ersshopforthejewelryyoumake?Atafarmer’smarket,craftmall,orthroughhigh-endgalleriesorInternetcraftmarketingsites?
Designers You Should Know
Somejewelrydesignersbecomewellknownforsettingtrendsorchang-ingthewaytheindustryworksorthrives.Hereareafewexamples,chosentoillustratetherangeandvarietythatexistsinjewelrydesign.Thesedesignersare,inmanyways,worldsapart.Gettingtoknowabit
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abouteachofthemwillhelpyougetasenseofwhereyouwanttoheadwith your own career as a jewelry designer.
Kenneth Jay Lane Lane’scareerbeganintheartdepartmentatVogue,andfromtheretodesigningshoesforChristianDior,amongothers.In1963,hemadehisfirstearringlinetocomplementthebejeweledheelshehaddesignedforArnoldScaasi.ThecollectionsoldoutatSaksFifthAvenueonthefirstdayitwasreleased.Heisknownfortheflashandglitzofhishigh-lyimaginativecostumejewelryline,andfortheHollywoodnamesand royalty who are devoted to his jewelry. Vintage KJL jewelry is now highly collectible and new lines are still being created.
• KJL biowww.kennethjaylane.com/about/
Paloma Picasso PalomaPicassoisknownforherexclusivedesignsforTiffany.AsthedaughterofPabloPicasso,hernamehasabuilt-incachet.Herdesignsaresimplegraphicelementsinboldshapeandcolor.
•Tiffany&Co.:PalomaPicassowww.tiffany.com/WorldOfTiffany/TiffanyStory/Design/PalomaPicasso.aspx
Robert Lee MorrisMorrisfoundedSculpturetoWearinNewYorkCityin1973,andin1987,ArtwearinSoHo,NYC.Artwearisconsideredbymanytobepiv-otalinthedevelopmentofthewearable-artjewelrymovementintheU.S.ThoughheclosedArtwearinthe1990s,hisowngallery,TheRob-ert Lee Morris Gallery, is still active on West Broadway in SoHo.
•RobertLeeMorriswww.robertleemorris.com/pages/bio
OttoKünzliForthosewithaninterestincontemporaryexperimentalworks,OttoKünzlicouldbereferredtoasoneofthefathersofmodernconceptual
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jewelry.ASwiss-trainedgoldsmithwithflawlesstechnicalskills,hisap-proachtojewelryisbothplayfulandprovocative,andchallengesthetraditionalconventionsofjewelry.HehasbeenaprofessorattheMu-nichAcademyofFineArtinGermanyandattheRoyalCollegeofArtinLondon.Heactivelywritesaboutjewelry,andcuratesjewelryexhi-bitionsaroundtheworld.Youcanseeexamplesofhiswork(asshownata2013retrospectiveexhibitdevelopedbyDieNeueSammlung-TheInternationalDesignMuseum)athttps://www.pinterest.com/mudac-museum/ among other websites.
Other Famous NamesSomeofthemostfamousnamesinjewelrysuchasTiffany,VanCleef&Arpels,andHarryWinstonareactuallyretailers,notjewelrydesigners.Thejewelrytheysellisactuallytheresultofthecreativityandskillofanensembleofhighlytalentedindividuals,andnotthecreativeworkoftheindividualonthemasthead.
Similarly,jewelrydesignssoldunderdesignernameslikeCalvinKlein,RalphLauren,JonesNY,andothernamesknownfortheirfashionsaredesignedandmanufacturedbyindividualjewelrydesigners,notthefashiondesignersthemselves.
Are You Suited to Jewelry Design?
Consideryouranswerstothefollowing:
•Doyouspendasmuchtimesearchingfortherightjewelrytoac-centanoutfitasontheoutfititself?
•Areyouhighlydetail-oriented?
•Asachild,didyouprefersittingatatabledoingcraftstoplayingoutdoors?
•Dofriendsoftenaskyouropiniononstyle?
•Whenlookingatlayoutsinfashionmagazines,doyoufocusontheaccessoriesratherthanthewholeimpression?
•Wouldyourfriendsdescribeyouascreativeorinventive?
•Doyouliketoassemblethings?
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•Doyoutendtotakeaprojecttocompletion?Ifyouanswered“yes”tosomeoralloftheabovequestions,youareontherighttrackpursuingacareerasajewelrydesigner!
1.1.3 BenefitsoftheCareerThosewhoventureintothiscareerarefirstandforemostmotivatedbythedesiretobecreative.Theyhaveexperiencedwearingthedesignsofothers,marveledoverfinedetail,ordelightedintheglitterofgemsorthegleamofpolishedmetal.
Wide Variety of Options
Withinthisfieldtherearemanycareeroptionsandcontextsinwhichtodesignand/ormakejewelry.Yourparticularchoicesandgoals,alongwithyourtemperament,willdirectyou.Yourprioritiesmaybetoat-tainacertainlevelofincome,oryoumaydesirethefreedomtostruc-tureyourowntimeandfollowyourowncreativepath.
Somedesignerswillpursueemploymentwithafashionjewelrycom-pany.Aregularsalaryandinvolvementintheexcitingworldoffashionarethepayoffforthosewhochoosethisroute.
Acraftjewelerbothdesignsandmakesthejewelry,usuallyinlimitedproductionruns,worksindependently,andsellstheworksinvariousvenuesfromtradeshowstowebsites.Thevolumeofworkheorsheisabletoproduceandhisorhermarketingabilitydeterminesthisde-signer’ssuccess.
Theartist-jewelermayspendmanyyearshoningbothdesignandtechnicalskills.Theyworkindependently,showingworksprimarilythroughgalleries,high-endcraftshowsanddesigningforprivatecli-ents and collectors.
Oneofthegreatbenefitsofthiscareeristhefreedomyouhavetostruc-tureittowhatisrightforyou.
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Personal Satisfaction
ThejewelerswhoIinterviewedforthisbook,andinfact,nearlyallthoseIhavegottentoknowinmymorethan15yearsinthiscreativebusiness,areallpassionateabouttheirneedtocreate;itisasessentialas breathing.
Individuals who direct their creative energy into a career are driven to dosobyaninnerpassion.Withtheebbandflowofcreativitycomespotentialforchangeandevolution,somethingmanyjobslack.
Eachtimeyoucompleteaproject,youwillhavethesatisfactionofhav-ingworkedthroughaseriesofdesignchallengesandtechniques.Youwillcontinuallybeabletoaddtoyourrosterofskills,andstartnewprojectsincorporatingwhatyou’velearned.Youwillwitnessyourownevolution as a designer.
Recognition
Anotherlevelofsatisfactioncomesfromseeingyourworkactuallybeingwornoutintheworld.Theproductsofyourimaginationwillhaveapositiveeffectonbothwearersandviewers.Somewillvaluethecraftsmanship,othersthedesign,orthewayitcomplementstheirnewoutfitperfectly.
Whenyoustarttodoshows,whetherthesearesmallopenhouses,tradeorretailcraftshows,peoplewillcheckbothyouandyourworkout.Manywillwanttoknowmoreaboutyourprocesses,yourinspira-tion,andyourbackground.Youwillfindthattheyarenotonlyinter-estedinanicepieceofjewelry,buttheyalsoexperienceathrillfromconnectingwiththemaker.Astimepasses,evenifitisonaverysmallscaleyouwillhavefanswhoseekyououtatshows.
Independence
Somanypeoplecomplainabouttheirbossesthatitisexcitingtoap-proachacareerchoicethatallowsyoutorealisticallyentertaintheideaofnothavingone.Evenifyouchoosetoworkforalargecompany,whichcansuitmanydesignersjustfine,youwillhaveskillsandcre-ativitythatyoucouldthriveonindependentlywereyoutomakethatchoice.Thatistrulyempowering.Whiletherearechallengesinbeing
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self-employed,fewoftheseareinsurmountableifyoucallonthere-sourcesthatareoutthereforyou.
Earning Potential
The2014-2015OccupationalOutlookHandbook(publishedbytheUnitedStatesBureauofLaborStatistics(www.bls.gov/ooh/produc-tion/jewelers-and-precious-stone-and-metal-workers.htm)states:
Themedianannualwageforjewelersandpreciousstoneandmetalworkerswas$35,350inMay2012.Themedianwageisthewageatwhichhalftheworkersinanoccupationearnedmorethanthatamountandhalfearnedless.Thelowest10percentearnedlessthan$19,600,andthehighest10percentearnedmorethan$61,940.
Jewelersandpreciousstoneandmetalworkershavevariedworksched-ules.Self-employedworkersoftendecidetheirownhours.Manyworkweekends,showingandsellingtheirproductsattradeandcraftshows.Retailstoreworkersmightalsoworknonstandardhoursbecausetheymustbeavailablewhenconsumersarenotworking,suchasonholidaysandweekends.Jewelerswhoworkinretailstoresmayearnacommissionforjewelrysold.About1in5workedparttimein2012.
Aself-employedjeweler’searningsarelimitedonlybythatindividual’sdeterminationandunderstandingoftheirmarket.Generallyajewelerwhodevotesfulldaystodesignandwhopromotestheworkreason-ablywellmightexpectsalesof$15,000-$20,000inthefirstyear,withincreasesof10-20%eachyearthereafter.
Thisfigureisonlyabase:yourdesignandmarketingsavvy,alongwithcarefulfinancialandbusinessmanagementcouldputyouinadifferentleaguealtogether.Bepatient,andsticktowhatholdsmeaningforyou.
1.2 InsideThisGuideTheFabJobGuidetoBecomeaJewelryDesignerhasbeencreatedforyoubyanexperiencedandsuccessfuljewelrydesigner,withvaluablehelpfromothersinthefield.Itwillguideyouthroughthevariousstepsto-wardgettingemploymentinthiscareerorstartingyourownbusinessas a jewelry designer.
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Thetipsthathavebeenpassedalongbyprofessionalsandexpertsinthisfieldwillgiveyouinsiderinformation,andwillsetyouonyourpathtopursuingacareerinthiscreativefield.
Chapter2(HowtoDesignJewelry)discussestypesofjewelry;thewidevarietyofmaterialsyoucananticipateworkingwith;thedesignpro-cess;andthetoolsandprocessesbywhichjewelryismade,bothbyhandandinmanufacturing.
Chapter3(PreparingforYourCareer)willtakeyouthroughthevariousoptionsofhowtodevelopyourskillsasadesigner.We’llguideyouthroughaddressingyourstrengthsaswellasacknowledgingthegapsinyourpresentknowledgeandexperience,anddirectyoutoresourcestohelpfillinthesegapsaswellastoharnessyourexistingskills.
Chapter4(GettingHired)answersthequestionofhowtogetajobwiththeskillsyoudevelop.Tipsonfindingyouridealemployer,howtopre-pareforaninterviewandwhatyoucanexpecttobepaid,bothstartingoutandasyoubecomeestablished,arealltopicsofdiscussioninthischapter.
Chapter5(StartingYourOwnBusiness)speakstothosepursuingthiscreativecareerforthefreedomandindependenceitoffers.Settingupyourworkspace,choosingabusinessname,andgettingtherightpriceforyourwork—theseandotheressentialtopicsareallcoveredinor-dertogiveyoutheconfidencetofollowthrough.
Chapter6(SellingYourDesigns)addressestherealitythatyouarenotonlyinthistodesignthejewelry,butyoualsoneedtosellthefruitsofyourlabor.Creatinggoodmarketingmaterialsandfindingtheappro-priatevenuestopromoteandsellyourworktoyourtargetmarketareall covered here.
Chapter7roundsthingsoutwithsuccessstoriesaboutindividualswho,likeyou,envisionedalifeofbeingcreativeandwentforit!
Whenyouarefinishedwiththisguideyouwillknowwhatstepstotakenextandwheretogofromthere.Byapplyingwhatyoulearnhere,it’sjustamatteroftimebeforeyou’llbewhereyouwanttobe…inanexcitingcareerasajewelrydesigner!
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