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AUTHOR THANKS

Marika McAdamThanks as always to my fellow authors for turning hard work and on-the-road adventures into so many great chapters. Thank you to my handsome husband Jo for supporting me in every journey I’ve embarked on since our worlds first collided in Bangladesh. And eternal thanks to ever-inspiring Mum and Dad McAdam for taking me travelling throughout childhood, and always having the good sense to pack a Lonely Planet.

Alexis AverbuckHail Alexandra Stamopoulou for her spot-on recommendations. Marina Flenga was a super-lative fairy godmother, connecting me to those in the know. Marilee Anargyrou Kyriazakou and Cali Doxiadis (in Kerkyra), Eleni Doxiadi (in Lefkada) and Manita Scocimara-Ponghis (in Kefallonia) shared their love and knowledge of their islands. In Athens, Lena Lambrinou decoded the Acropolis and Elina Lychoudi the nightlife. Anthy and Costas, as well as Marga-rita Kontzia and Kostas Karakatsanis, made it home.

James BainbridgeA heartfelt çok teşekkürler, once again, to everyone who helped me find my way around the steppe on my last visit to northeastern

Turkey. Celil in Kars and Necmettin in Akçaabat deserve special mention for your help on a few recent projects. Thanks, as ever, to everyone at Lonely Planet – Tom, Dora, Angela, James, Cliff et al – and to my wife Leigh-Robin.

Mark BakerI met many helpful people all along the way in researching three countries for this guide and their names would too numerous to mention here. I’ve lived in Prague for two decades now and a very special thanks to my good friends here; in Slovenia, the staff of the Slovenia Tourist Board deserve special mention.

Chris DelisoAs always a number of kind and helpful Mace-donians (and other folks too), provided good tips, advice and assistance in the course of my research. Among them I can mention Pece, Patrice, Stevche, Emilija, Biljana, Dane, Stojko. Ace and Julija – you know who you are! Of course, this book couldn’t have been completed without the work of my patient and devoted Lonely Planet colleagues, including Katie O’Connell, the map-making and produc-tion teams.

Peter DragicevichMany thanks to all the wonderful people who helped me in Montenegro, especially Ivica Erdelja, Hayley Wright and Jack Delf, Emma and Ben Heywood, Krstinja Petranović, Danica

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

BeHiN

D tHe SceN

eSĆeranić and Matthew Lane. Also, I owe a debt of gratitude to James and Lorraine Hedder-man, Tim Benzie and Kerri Tyler for their contributions before and after the journey.

Mark ElliottMany thanks to Wieland de Hoon, Hans Ros-sel, Guy Jacobs, Dani Systermans, Lesley Devos, Valerie de Kerpel, Sharon Taylor, Jan Beran, Mišo Marić and the helpful folks at Travellers Home and New Age hostels. As ever my greatest thanks go to my endlessly inspiring family for so much liberating love.

Tom MastersAn enormous debt of thanks to all my hard-working fellow authors on this book, and the teams in London and Melbourne who com-missioned, edited and oversaw the project. Special thanks in Albania to Ardi Pulaj, Cath-erine Bohne, Tedi Sina and Bledi Strakosha; and in Kosovo to Hekuran Avdyli and the folks at Libertas in Pristina.

Craig McLachlanA hearty thanks to all those who helped me out on the road, but most of all, to my ex-ceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko, who let me know when I’d had my daily quota of Mythos and gyros pitta.

Anja MutićHvala mama, for your home cooking and contagious laughter. Obrigada, Hoji, for being

there before, during and after. A huge hvala to my friends in Croatia who gave me end-less recommendations – this book wouldn’t be the same without you. Special thanks go to Lidija in Zagreb and Mila in Split, as well as the team at HTZ. Finally, to the inspiring memory of my father who travels with me still.

Tamara ShewardTo research here is to make a zillion friends, so in addition to thanking the population of Serbia, I’d like to offer clinks of the rakija glass and mnogo hvala na… the NS Kiosk Crew, Gagi of Niš, Toma of Mokra Gora, Zoran for saving us from snakes and wolves, all the helpful oddballs we met during our medeni mesec/research jaunt, Dragana Eremić, the Ljesević family, the Lučić clan, Pappa and Mumma, and as ever, to Dušan, najbolje, najslađi čovek u svemiru!

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.

Cover photograph: Stari Most, Mostar, Bosnia and Hercegovina, Richard I’Anson/Getty Images.

THIS BOOK Many people have helped to create this 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Southeastern Europe guidebook, which is part of Lonely Planet’s Europe series. Other titles in this series include Western Europe, Eastern Europe, Mediterra-nean Europe, Central Europe, Scandinavia and Europe on a Shoestring. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editors Erin Corrigan, Jo Cooke, Lucy Monie Hall, James SmartCoordinating Editor Samantha ForgeCoordinating Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaCoordinating Layout Designer Lauren EganManaging Editors Annelies Mertens, Angela TinsonManaging Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Anthony Phelan, Amanda SierpManaging Layout Designer Chris GirdlerAssisting Editors Briohny Hooper, Anne Mason

Assisting Cartographers Xavier Di ToroAssisting Layout Designer Frank DeimCover Research Kylie McLaughlinInternal Image Research Aude VauconsantLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Elin Berglund, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Darren O’Connell, Trent Paton, Dianne Schallmeiner, Kerrianne Southway, Gerard Walker, Amanda Williamson

000 Map.pages000 Photo.pages

644

Aaccommodation.610-12,.seealso.

individuallocationsAcropolis.(Athens).241activities.20,.22-4,.612-13,.see

alsoindividualactivitiesAdana.579adventure.sports.612Aegean.Coast.546-64, 547Aegina.270Agia.Roumeli.289,.290Agiasos.303Agios.Georgios.291Agios.Gordios.308Agios.Nikitas.308Agios.Nikolaos.291Ahmet.I.of.Turkey.527air.travel.19,.621-2,.623Alaçatı.554Alanya.577-8Albania.36-68,.38accommodation.36,.64-5activities.65arts.63-4budget.37business.hours.65climate.36costs.37drinking.64economy.60embassies.65environment.64exchange.rates.37food.36,.37,.64,.65highlights.38history.60-3internet.access.65internet.resources.37itineraries.37money.37,.65people.63planning.36-7

politics.60postal.services.65-6public.holidays.66telephone.services.66tourist.information.66travel.to/from.37,.66-7travel.within.67-8visas.66

Albanian.(language).630-1Albena.154Alcaeus.314Alexandroupolis.267Alonnisos.305Amasya.582AnEternityandOneDay.315Anamur.578Anatolia.580-3Anavatos.300Andrić,.Ivo.99Ankara.580-2Antakya.579-80Antalya.573-6,.574Antiparos.276,.275Apollonia.51Arbanasi.142archaeological.sites.&.ruinsAcropolis.(Athens).241Acropolis.of.Lindos.(Rhodes).294Agora.(Athens).242Akrotiri.(Santorini).281Amphitheatre.of.Durrës.50Ancient.Delphi.262Ancient.Mycenae.259Ancient.Olympia.262Asklipieion.(Kos).296Butrint.58Corinth.&.Acrocorinth.257Delos.274Ephesus.556Ireon.(Samos).299Kamiros.(Rhodes).294Knossos.(Crete).286Mediana.(Niš).476Melnik.128Nea.Moni.(Chios).300Parthenon.(Athens).241,.10Pergamum.(Bergama).551Phaestos.(Crete).286Roman.Thermae.(Varna).149Skarkos.(Ios).279Stari.Bar.378Stobi.359Temple.of.Aphaia.(Aegina).270Temple.of.Apollo.(Naxos).277Temple.of.Artemis.(Selçuk).555Temple.of.Athena.Nike.(Athens).241Temple.of.Olympian.Zeus..(Athens).242

Temple.of.Zeus.(Olympia).262Theatre.of.Dionysos.(Athens).241Žabljak.Crnojevića.382

area.codes.618Areopoli.261Argostoli.309Arkadia.259Aspendos.576Assos.549-50Atatürk,.Mustafa.Kemal.594Athani.308Athens.237-53,.238-9, 246, 10accommodation.244-7climate.235drinking.249entertainment.249-51festivals.&.events.244food.247-9history.240-1itineraries.241-324safety.251shopping.251sights.241-3,.244tourist.information.252tours.243travel.to/from.252travel.within.252-3

ATMs.616Aya.Sofya.(İstanbul).531,.2Ayvalık.550-1

BBachkovo.Monastery.136Baderishka.Polyana.129Badron.Gorge.259Balchik.153-4Banat.423-7Banja.Luka.101-3Bansko.129-30Bar.378-9Bârsana.431basics.18-19bathrooms.619Bay.of.Kotor.12,.370,.12beaches.20bears.409beerAlbania.64Bulgaria.114Croatia.228,.228-34Kosovo.335Macedonia.338,.363Romania.451Slovenia.520

Behramkale.549-50Belgrade.460-71,.462-3accommodation.465-6

645iN

DeX B-C

drinking.467-8entertainment.468-9food.466-7history.460information.470itineraries.460shopping.470sights.460-1,.464-5tours.465travel.to/from.470-1travel.within.471

Belogradchik.161-2Belogradchik.Rocks.162Berat.14,.51-4,.14Bergama.551-2Beyoğlu.534-5,.11bicycling,.see.cyclingBiertan.417BiH,.see.Bosnia.&.HercegovinaBihać.103-4biking,.see.cyclingbirdwatching.(Macedonia).359Bitola.355-6Bjelašnica.85Bjelila.373Black.Lake.387Black.Sea.17,.149-60Black.Sea.coast.439-47,.439Blagaj.94Bled.500-4,.502Blue.Mosque.(İstanbul).527boat.travel.19,.622,.624Bobotov.Kuk.387Bodrum.559-63,.560Bohinj.504-6Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.69-112,.71,.106accommodation.69,.109activities.109-10arts.108-9budget.70business.hours.110climate.69drinking.70environment.109exchange.rates.70food.69,.70,.110highlights.71history.105-8internet.access.110internet.resources.70itineraries.70language.109,.633money.70,.110people.108planning.69-70politics.105postal.services.110public.holidays.110

safety.110telephone.services.110travel.to/from.70,.111travel.within.111-12visas.111

Bosphorus.535Botiza.431Bouzianis,.George.315Bovec.507-8Boyana.125-6Bozburun.Peninsula.563brandyAlbania.37Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.70Bulgaria.165-6Croatia.228,.228-34Macedonia.338,.363Montenegro.368Romania.396,.451Serbia.458,.482Slovenia.486,.520

Braşov.412-16,.414Bucegi.Mountains.413Bucharest.397-408,.398-9,.402-3accommodation.404-5drinking.405-6entertainment.406food.405information.406-7shopping.406sights.397,.400-1travel.to/from.407-8travel.within.408

budgeting.18-19Budva.376-7Bulgaria.113-14,.113-70,.115accommodation.113,.166activities.166arts.163-4budget.114business.hours.166-7climate.113drinking.114,.165-6embassies.167environment.164-5exchange.rates.114food.113,.114,.165-6,.167highlights.115history.162-3internet.access.167internet.resources.114itineraries.114legal.matters.167money.114,.167-8people.163planning.113-14public.holidays.168safety.168

telephone.services.168travel.to/from.114,.168-9travel.within.169-70visas.168

Bulgarian.(language).631-2Burgas.156-8Bursa.544-6bus.travel.18,.622,.624-5business.hours.613,.seealso

individualcountriesButrint.58Butterfly.Valley.565,.566Byala.155

ccamping.610Çanakkale.548-9canoeing,.see.kayakingCape.Keri.311Cappadocia.583-9car.travel.19,.622,.625-6Carnival.(Croatia).22carpets.(Turkey).596castles,.fortresses.&.palacesBaba.Vida.Museum-Fortress.(Vidin).161

Bled.Castle.500Bran.Castle.416,.16Car.Samoil’s.Castle.(Ohrid).351Castle.of.Lëkurësit.(Saranda).56Castle.of.St.Peter.(Bodrum).559Cherven.Fortress.(Rusenski.Lom.Nature.Park).148

City.of.Residence.Citadel.(Suceava).435

Diocletian’s.Palace.(Split).204-7Doboj.103Fortica.(Hvar.Town).212Fortress.of.Justinian.(Tirana).40-1Gjirokastra.Castle.59Gradačac.103Kalasa.(Berat).52Kalemegdan.Citadel.(Belgrade).460Kaleto.Fortress.(Belogradchik).162Kanli-Kula.(Herceg.Novi).370Ljubljana.Castle.488Maribor.Castle.517Niš.Fortress.475Palace.of.Princess.Ljubica.461Palaio.Frourio.(Corfu).307Peleş.Castle.409Pelişor.Palace.409Petrovaradin.Citadel.472Petrović.Palace.(Podgorica).383Predjama.Castle.510Ptuj.Castle.518Râşnov.Fortress.416Rector’s.Palace.(Dubrovnik).219

000 Map.pages000 Photo.pages

646

iNDeX C

-D

castles,.fortresses.&.palaces.continuedRoman.Fortress.of.Sexaginta.Prista.(Ruse).146-7

Royal.Palace.(Sofia).116Rozafa.Fortress.(Shkodra).46-7Shumen.Fortress.144Smederevo.Fortress.469Španjola.Fortress.(Herceg.Novi).370Sponza.Palace.(Dubrovnik).219Srebrenik.103Stari.Grad.(Travnik).99Tešanj.103Topkapı.Palace.(İstanbul).530Trsat.Castle.(Rijeka).196Tsarevets.Fortress..(Veliko.Târnovo).139

Tvrdina.Kale.Fortress.(Skopje).341Vranduk.103

cathedrals,.see.churches.&.cathedrals

Ceauşescu,.Nicolea.424cell.phones.618Çeşme.Peninsula.554Cetinje.380-1Chagall,.Marc.302children,.travel.with.613Chios.299-301Christo.Javacheff.165churches.&.cathedralsAkdamar.Kilisesi.(Lake.Van).592Aya.Sofya.(İstanbul).531Berat.52Cathedral.of.Christ’s.Resurrection.(Podgorica).383

Cathedral.of.St.Domnius.(Split).205Cathedral.of.St.George.(Piran).513Cathedral.of.St.Lovro..(Trogir).211-12

Cathedral.of.the.Assumption.(Koper).511

Cathedral.of.the.Assumption..(Krk.Town).200

Cathedral.of.the.Assumption.of.the.Blessed.Virgin.Mary.(Zagreb).173

Cathedral.of.the.Assumption.of.the.Virgin.(Dubrovnik).219

Church.of.Sveti.Jovan.at.Kaneo.(Ohrid).351,.15

Church.of.the.Dormition.of.St.Mary.(Berat).52

Metropolitan.Cathedral..(Timişoara).424

Moldavian.Metropolitan.Cathedral.(Iaşi).432

Orthodox.Cathedral.of.Christ.Saviour.(Banja.Luka).102

Patriarchal.Cathedral..(Bucharest).400

St.Mark’s.Cathedral.(Korčula.Island).215

St.Tryphon’s.Cathedral.(Kotor).373Sveta.Nedelya.Cathedral.(Sofia).117Sveta.Sofija.Cathedral.(Ohrid).352

cinema,.seealso.film.festivalsAlbania.63Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.109Romania.450Slovenia.520Turkey.597

Çirali.571-2Cişmigiu.Garden.401climate.18,.22-4,.seealsoindividual

countriesclimate.change.622Cluj-Napoca.420-3,.422communismAlbania.62Bulgaria.163Romania.448

Constanţa.444-5Constantinople,.see.Istanbulconsulates,.see.embassies.&.

consulatesCorfu.305-8,.306Corfu.Town.306-7Corinth.256-7Coşkun,.Celal.596Cres.201Crete.283-91,.284-5Crişana.423-7Croatia.171-234,.229-30,.174-5accommodation.171,.229arts.226-7books.226budget.172business.hours.230climate.171drinking.172,.228-9economy.225embassies.230environment.227-8exchange.rates.172food.171,.172,.228-9,.230highlights.174history.225-6Homeland.War.225-6internet.resources.172itineraries.172money.172,.230-1people.226planning.171-2politics.224-5,.226public.holidays.231telephone.services.231tourist.information.231

travel.to/from.172,.232travel.within.232-4visas.231-2

Croatian.(language).633-4Cyclades.271-83cycling.19,.612,.623-4Bulgaria.166Croatia.189,.192,.195,.217,.229Greece.322Montenegro.383,.386Romania.409Slovenia.504,.506,.507

DDalmatia.201-24Danube.Delta.439-44,.440Datça.Peninsula.563Delos.274Delphi.262-3Demir.Kapija.Gorge.359Despotovac.469Devrent.Valley.587Dhërmi.55Diakofto.256Didyma.559Dihovo.356-7Dilofo.269Dimitsana.259disabilities,.travellers.with.619Albania.66Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.110Bulgaria.168Croatia.231Greece.320Macedonia.364Romania.454Turkey.604

discount.cards.613diving.612Croatia.189,.192,.195,.217,.220,.229Montenegro.379Turkey.558,.563,.600

Dobrota.372Dodecanese.291-8Dogtooth.315Dracula.412,.447-8Dragačevo.Trumpet.Assembly.(Guča).

15,.24,.476,.15driving,.see.car.traveldriving.licences.625Drvengrad.479Drymades.55Dubrovnik.13,.218-24,.220-1, 13accommodation.221-2activities.220-1drinking.223entertainment.223festivals.&.events.221

647iN

DeX D-I

food.222-3history.218information.223sights.218-20tours.221travel.to/from.223-4travel.within.224

Durrës.50-1duty-free.611

eEceabat.546-8Edirne.543-4Efes,.see.EphesusEl.Greco.315electricity.614Elies.262Elytis,.Odysseus.314embassies.&.consulates.614,.see

alsoindividualcountriesemergencies.611Emona.155employment.620Ephesus.556-8,.557Epidavros.259Eurail.628events,.see.festivals.&.eventsEXIT.Festival.(Novi.Sad).23,.472

Fferries.19,.622,.624festivals.&.events.22-4,seealsofilm.

festivalsAdventure.Race.(Herceg.Novi).370Art-Athina.(Athens).244Athens.Biennial.(Athens).244Dragačevo.Trumpet.Assembly.(Guča).15,.24,.476,.15

EXIT.Festival.(Novi.Sad).23,.472Hartera.(Rijeka).197Hellenic.Festival.(Athens).244Music.Biennale.Zagreb.180Ohrid.Summer.Festival.352Patras.Carnival.255ReMap.(Athens).244Sani.Jazz.Festival.(Kassandra).267

Fethiye.564-6Filoti.277film.see.cinemafilm.festivals.Sarajevo.Film.Festival.24,.78Tirana.International.Film.Festival.42

Fira.280firewater,.see.brandyfishing.359Fiskardo.309food.21,.614,.seealso.individual

locations

fortresses,.see.castles,.fortresses.&.palaces

Frikes.310FromRussiawithLove.531Fruška.Gora.475

GGadimë.Cave.329Galičnik.349galleries,.see.museums.&.galleriesGallipoli.Peninsula.546gay.&.lesbian.travellers.614-15Albania.65Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.110Bulgaria.167Croatia.184,.230Greece.301,.318Montenegro.392Romania.452Slovenia.521-2Turkey.601

Gefyra.260Gelibolu.546George.II.of.Greece.313Gerolimenas.261Gjirokastra.59-60Golden.Sands.154Göreme.585-7Grand.Bazaar.(İstanbul).530Greece.235-324,.237accommodation.235,.317-18budget.236climate.235culture.314-15drinking.236,.316-17embassies.&.consulates.318environment.315-16food.235,.236,.316-17highlights.237history.312-14itineraries.236money.236,.319opening.hours.318public.holidays.319resources.236telephones.319tourist.information.320travel.to/from.236,.320-1travel.with.322-4visas.320

Greek.(language).634-5Gythio.260-1

HHabsburgs,.the.518-19Hagia.Sophia.(İstanbul).531Halki.278

Halkidiki.267hamams.(Turkey).538Hania.287-8Hatay.579-80health.615Heraclea.Lyncestis.356Herăstrău.Park.404Herceg.Novi.370-2Hercegovina.85-96hiking.612Albania.48,.53,.65Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.110Bulgaria.126,.136,.141,.166Croatia.195,.230Greece.262,.269Montenegro.382,.383,.386,.388Romania.409Serbia.409,.479,.482Slovenia.500,.504,.506,.507Turkey.565,.585,.599

Himara.55-6Hippocrates.295hire.cars.625history,.seeindividualcountries,

WWI,.WWIIhitching.626holidays,.see.public.holidaysHomer.280,.312,.314,.549Hora.Sfakion.290horse.riding.(Turkey).585hostels.611hot-air.ballooning.(Turkey).584Humor.437Hvar.Island.212-15,.6Hydra.270-1

iIaşi.432-5,.434Ieud.431-2Igoumenitsa.269Ihlara.Valley.589Iliad.312,.549immigration.621insurance.616,.626internet.access.616internet.resources.19,.seealso

individualcountriesInterRail.629Ioannina.268-9Ionian.Islands.305-12Ios.279-80,.279Iraklio.284-6İstanbul.527-43,.530,.532-3, 536-7,

2, 11accommodation.536-9drinking.541-2entertainment.541-2food.539-41

000 Map.pages000 Photo.pages

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iNDeX I-M

İstanbul.continuedhighlights.10history.527itineraries.527safety.543sights.527-35tourist.information.542tours.535-6travel.to/from.542travel.within.542,.542-3

Istria.188-96Ithaki.310itineraries.25-9,.seealso.individual

countriesİzmir.552-3

JJahorina.84-5Jajce.100-1Jal.56Julian.Alps.499-509

KKahta.590Kalavryta.256Kaleiçi,.see.AntalyaKalkan.567-8Kapadokya,.see.CappadociaKaradut.590Kardamyli.262Karpathos.294-5Kaş.568-70,.570-1Kassandra.Peninsula.267Kassiopi.307Kastraki.263Kavadarci.358-9kayaking.613Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.105Croatia.220-1,.230Montenegro.371,.382Turkey.600Slovenia.504,.507,.508

Kayseri.588-9Kazanlâk.137-9Kazantzakis,.Nikos.314Kefallonia.309-10Kemal,.Yaşar.596Kerkyra,.see.CorfuKioni.310Kiten.160,.17Kızkalesi.578-9Knights.of.St.John.293,.296Knossos.286

Kobarid.508-9Kolašin.386-7Koliba.85Konya.582-3Kopaonik.478Koper.511-12Koprivshtitsa.137Köprülü.Kanyon.576Korčula.Island.215,.14Kos.295-7Kosovo.325-36,.327accommodation.325,.335arts.334-5budget.326business.hours.335climate.325drinking.326embassies.335environment.335exchange.rates.326food.325,.326,.335highlights.327history.333-4internet.resources.326itineraries.326language.630media.334money.326,.335people.334planning.325-6postal.services.335public.holidays.335-6safety.336telephone.services.336travel.to/from.326,.336travel.within.336visas.336

Kotor.372-5,.374Kozjak.Stream.Waterfalls.508Kranjska.Gora.506-7Kravice.Waterfalls.95Krk.Island.200-1Kruja.49-50Krupa.na.Vrbasu.103Ksamil.58Kuşadası.558-9Kythira.311

LLaganas.Bay.311Lake.Bled.500-4,.502Lake.Bohinj.504-6Lake.Koman.49Lake.Matka.348Lake.Pamvotida.268Lake.Tikveš.359Lakones.308

Lakonian.Mani.261landmines.617-18Lasithi.Plateau.290-1Lastva.372Le.Corbusier.302Lefkada.308Lefkada.Town.308Leonidio.259lesbian.travellers,.see.gay.&.lesbian.

travellersLesvos.301-3Levski,.Vasil.163Limnionas.311Lindos.294Lipica.512literature.611Albania.63Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.108-9Croatia.226-7Greece.314-5Romania.449-50Serbia.481Slovenia.519Turkey.596-7

Litohoro.268Ljubljana.487-99,.490-1accommodation.493-4drinking.495-6entertainment.496-7festivals.&.events.493food.494-5history.487-8information.497-8itineraries.488sights.488-9,.493tours.493travel.to/from.498,.499travel.within.498-9

Lošinj.201Louha.311Lousios.Gorge.259Loutro.290Lukomir.85Lycian.Way.565,.599

MMacedonia.337-66,.339accommodation.337,.363activities.363arts.362budget.338business.hours.363climate.337drinking.338,.363economy.361embassies.363-4environment.362-3exchange.rates.338

649iN

DeX Mfood.337,.338,.363,.364highlights.339history.360-1internet.resources.338itineraries.338money.338,.364people.361-2planning.337-8politics.361postal.services.364public.holidays.364safety.364telephone.services.364tourist.information.364travel.to/from.338,.364-5travel.within.365-6visas.364

Macedonian.(language).635-7Madara.145Madara.National.Historical.and.

Archaeological.Reserve.145Malatya.590Malia.287Mamaia.445-6MammaMia.304Mani,.the.261-2Manolates.299maps.611Maramureş.427-32,.429Marathonisi.islet.260Mardin.591-2Maribor.517marketsČaršija.(Prilep).357Cheese.Market.(Peja).332Dolac.Market.(Zagreb).173Gjirokastra.Bazaar.59Grand.Bazaar.(İstanbul).530Kruja.Bazaar.50Monastiraki.Flea.Market..(Athens).251

Odos.1866.(Iraklio).285Stara.Čaršija.(Bitola).355Tirana.44Zagreb.185

Marmaris.563-4Martin.Brod.104Matisse,.Henri.302Matka.348Maydos.546-8measures.611Međed.387Mediterranean.Coast.(Turkey).564-80Međugorje.94-5Megalo.Papingo.269Mehmet.the.Conqueror.527,.530Melnik.127-9Menalon.Mountains.259

Messinian.Mani.261-2Mesta.300Metaxas.313Meteora.12,.263-4,.13meyhanes.540Mikro.Papingo.269Miletus.559Milišići.85Miro,.Joan.302Mithymna.302-3Mljet.Island.216-18mobile.phones.618Moisei.432Moldavia.432-9Moldoviţa.438Molyvos.302monasteries.21Bachkovo.Monastery.136Bârsana.Monastery.431Basarbovo.Rock.Monastery.148Cetinje.Monastery.381Dobrun.Monastery.97Dominican.Monastery..(Dubrovnik).219

Franciscan.Monastery..(Dubrovnik).218-19

Franciscan.Monastery..(Hvar.Town).212

Golia.Monastery.432Gračanica.Monastery.329Humor.Monastery.437Ivanovo.Rock.Monastery.148Manasija.Monastery.469Megalou.Meteorou.(Meteora).263Minorite.Monastery.513Moldoviţa.Monastery.438Monastery.of.St.John.the.New.(Suceava).435

Monastery.of.St.John.the.Theolo-gian.(Patmos).297

Monastery.of.Sveti.Nikola.359Morača.Monastery.386Novo.Hopovo.Monastery.475Ostrog.Monastery.385-6Patriachate.of.Peć.332Piva.Monastery.389Pološki.Monastery.359Rila.Monastery.127Savina.Monastery.370Sinan.Pasha.Mosque.(Prizren).333Snagov.Monastery.412Sopoćani.Monastery.477St.George.Monastery.477Studenica.Monastery.478Suceviţa.Monastery.438-9Sveta.Bogoroditsa.Monastery.142Sveti.Jovan.Bigorski..Monastery.348-9

Sveti.Naum.Monastery.354

Sveti.Nikolai.Monastery.142Sveti.Pantelejmon.Monastery.341Treskavec.Monastery.357-8Varlaam.(Meteora).263Visoki.Dečani.Monastery.332Voroneţ.Monastery.437-8Zrze.Monastery.358

Monemvasia.260money.18,.19,.613-14,.616-17,.seealso

individualcountriesMonodendri.269Montenegro.367-94,.369accommodation.367,.392budget.368business.hours.392climate.367drinking.368economy.389-90embassies.392exchange.rates.368food.367,.368,.391,.392highlights.369history.390-1internet.resources.368itineraries.368language.368,.630money.368,.392people.391planning.367-8politics.389-90public.holidays.393telephone.services.393travel.to/from.368,.393-4travel.within.394

Morača.Canyon.386mosquesAya.Sofya.(İstanbul).531Bajrakli.Mosque.(Belgrade).461Blue.Mosque.(İstanbul).527Carshi.Mosque.(Pristina).328Čaršija.Mosque.(Stolac).95Dzhumaya.Mosque.(Plovdiv).131Et’hem.Bey.Mosque.(Tirana).39-40Fethija.Mosque.(Bihać).104Gazi-Husrevbey.Mosque..(Sarajevo).73

Haji.Alibey.Mosque.(Travnik).99Isak.Mosque.(Bitola).355Jashar.Pasha.Mosque.(Pristina).328

Karađozbeg.Mosque.(Mostar).87Koski.Mehmed.Paša.Mosque.(Mostar).87

Many.Coloured.Mosque..(Travnik).99

Mosque.of.Süleyman.(Rhodes).293Muradi.Mosque.(Vlora).54Mustafa.Paša.Mosque.(Skopje).341Red.Mosque.(Berat).52

000 Map.pages000 Photo.pages

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iNDeX M

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mosques.continuedRoznamedži.Ibrahimefendi.Mosque.(Mostar).87

Selimiye.Camii.(Edirne).544Süleymaniye.Mosque..(İstanbul).531

Sultan.Mehmet.Fatih.Mosque.(Pristina).328

Sultan.Murat.Mosque.(Skopje).341Tombul.Mosque.(Shumen).144Yahdar-Kadi.Mosque.(Bitola).355Yeni.Mosque.(Bitola).355

Mostar.17,.86-94, 88-9,.17accommodation.90-2drinking.92-3entertainment.93food.92history.86information.93-4shopping.93sights.86-7tours.87,.90travel.to/from.93,.94travel.within.94

motorcycle.travel.622,.625-6movies,.see.cinemaMt.Athos.267Mt.Erciyes.583Mt.Ida.286Mt.Kynthos.274Mt.Lovćen.372Mt.Nemrut.National.Park.590Mt.Olympus.267-8Mt.Psiloritis.286Mt.Tâmpa.413Mt.Triglav.16,.505,.16Mt.Vodno.341museums.&.galleriesAcropolis.Museum.(Athens).241Archaeological.Museum.(Pula).189Art.Pavilion.(Zagreb).179Batana.House.(Rovinj).192Beekeeping.Museum..(Radovljica).501

Benaki.Museum.(Athens).242Byzantine.&.Christian.Museum.(Athens).243

Central.Eco-Tourism.Museum.of.the.Danube.Delta.(Tulcea).441

City.Museum.(Zagreb).179Croatian.Museum.of.Naïve.Art.(Zagreb).178

Dražen.Petrović.Memorial.Museum.(Zagreb).180

Ethnographic.Museum.(Split).205

Galerija.Klovićevi.Dvori.(Zagreb).179Gallery.of.Fine.Arts.(Split).207Gallery.of.Modern.Art.(Zagreb).179-80

Göreme.Open-Air.Museum.585Grigore.Antipa.Natural.History.Museum.(Bucharest).401

Homeland.War.Museum..(Dubrovnik).219

İstanbul.Archaeology.Museums.531Marco.Polo.Museum.(Korčula.Island).215

Maritime.&.History.Museum.(Rijeka).197

Meštrović.Gallery.(Split).207Mevlâna.Museum.(Konya).582Museum.Mimara.(Zagreb).179Museum.of.Anatolian.Civilisations.(Ankara).580

Museum.of.Ancient.Glass..(Zadar).202

Museum.of.Beekeeping.&.Wine.Cellar.(Sremski.Karlovci).475

Museum.of.Broken.Relationships.(Zagreb).173

Museum.of.Contemporary.Art.(Zagreb).180

National.Archaeological.Museum.(Athens).242

Onufri.Museum.(Berat).52Strossmayer.Gallery.of.Old.Masters.(Zagreb).179

Svrzo.House.(Sarajevo).73Town.Museum.(Korčula.Island).215Town.Museum.(Split).205Town.Museum.(Trogir).212Tusculum.Museum.(Solin).205War.Photo.Limited.(Dubrovnik).218

musicAlbania.63Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.109Bulgaria.163-4Croatia.227Greece.315Macedonia.362Romania.450Serbia.481-2Slovenia.520Turkey.397

Mustafa.Kemal.Atatürk.594Mustafapaşa.588Mycenae.259Mykonos.271-5,.272,.21Mystras.260Mytikas.268Mytilini.301-2

NNafplio.257-9national.parks.&.reserves

Biogradska.Gora.National.Park.387Durmitor.National.Park.387-9Galičica.National.Park.354Lake.Skadar.National.Park.381-3Llogaraja.Pass.National.Park.54Lovćen.National.Park.380Mavrovo.National.Parks.348-9Mljet.National.Park.217Mt.Dajti.National.Park.46Mt.Nemrut.National.Park.590National.Marine.Park.of..Alonnisos.304

National.Marine.Park.of..Zakynthos.311

Pelister.National.Park.356-7Plitvice.Lakes.National.Park.188Sutjeska.National.Park.97Una.National.Park.104

Naxos.276-8,.277Nemrut.Dağı.590-608Nesebâr.155-6newspapers.611nightlife.21Niš.475-7Northeastern.Aegean.Islands.

298-303Novi.Pazar.477-8Novi.Sad.472-4Nydri.308

oOdyssey.310,.312Ohrid.14,.349-53,.350,.15Oia.281oil.wrestling.(Turkey).544Old.Towns.20Belgrade.461Bucharest.400-1Budva.376Dubrovnik.218-19Herceg.Novi.370Novi.Pazar.477Poreč.194Rovinj.192Sarajevo.72-3Trebinje.96Trogir.211Ulcinj.379Zadar.202

Ölüdeniz.566-7Olymbos.295Olympia.262Olympos.571-2Omalos.289Opatija.199-200opening.hours.see.business.hoursOradea.426-7Orebić.216

651iN

DeX O-S

Our-Lady-of-the-Rock.Island.372ouzo.316

Ppacking.tips.19Pakleni.Islands.213palaces,.see.castles,.fortresses.&.

palacesPaleohora.289Paleokastritsa.308Pamuk,.Orhan.596Pamukkale.558Papandreou,.George.313paragliding.376,.566Parikia.275Paros.275-6,.275Parthenis,.Konstantinos.315Parthenon.(Athens).241,.10Paşabağı.587passports.621Patara.567Patitiri.305Patmos.297-8Patra.255-6Paxi.308Peja.331-3Pelekas.Beach.308Pelion.Peninsula.263Peloponnese.255-62people,.seeindividualcountriesPerast.372Pergamum.551-2Perge.576Pericles.240,.312Petrovac.378Phaestos.286-7Philip.II.of.Macedon.241phonecards.619photography.617Picasso,.Pablo.302Pigadia.295Pindar.314Pindos.Mountains.268Piraeus.253-5,.254Piran.512-16,.514-15Piva.Canyon.389planning.18-19,.seealsoindividual

countriesbasics.18-19budgeting.18calendar.of.events.22-4countries.30-3highlights.10-17itineraries.25-9travel.seasons.22-4travel.themes.20-1

Plitvice.Lakes.104Plovdiv.130-5,.132

Počitelj.95Podgorica.383-5,.384-5Poreč.194-6Poros.270Portorož.516postal.services.617,.seealso

individualcountriesPostojna.509-10Prčanj.372Predjama.510Priene.559Prilep.357Primorsko.160Pristina.13,.328-31,.330,.13Prizren.333Pržno.377-8Psyhro.291Ptuj.517-18public.holidays.615,.seealso.

individualcountriespublic.transport.627Pula.188-91Punta.Corrente.Forest.Park.192Pyrgi.300Pythagorio.299

rRadovljica.501Rethymno.287Rhodes.292-4,.292Rijeka.196-9Rijeka.Crnojevića.382Rila.Monastery.126-7Risan.372road.rules.626rock.climbing.230,.505Romania.395-456,.397accommodation.395,.451-2arts.449budget.396business.hours.452climate.395customs.regulations.452drinking.396,.451embassies.452environment.450exchange.rates.396food.395,.396,.450-1,.452highlights.397history.447-9internet.resources.396itineraries.396money.396,.452-3people.449planning.395-6politics.447,.448-9postal.services.453public.holidays.453

telephone.services.453-4tourist.information.454travel.to/from.396,.454-5travel.within.455-6visas.454

Romanian.(language).637-8Rose.373Rovinj.191-4Rozavlea.431Rt.Kamenjak.189ruins,.see.archaeological.sites.&.ruinsRuse.145-8,.146Rusenski.Lom.Nature.Park.148-9

SSafranbolu.582safety.617-18sailing.613Samaria.Gorge.288-9Samaris,.Antonis.314Samos.298-9,.298Şanlıurfa.590,.591Santorini.280-3,.281Săpânţa.430Sappho.301,.314Sarajevo.72-84,.74,.76accommodation.78-9activities.72-7drinking.80-1entertainment.81-2festivals.&.events.78food.79-80history.72information.82itineraries.72shopping.82sights.72-7tours.77-8travel.to/from.82,.83travel.within.82

Saranda.56-8Šargan.8.railway.479Saronic.Gulf.Islands.269-71Saxon.Triangle.417Seferis,.George.314Selçuk.555-6senior.travellers.614Serbia.457-84,.459accommodation.457,.482activities.482arts.481-2budget.458business.hours.482-3climate.457drinking.458,.482embassies.483environment.482

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Serbia.continuedexchange.rates.458food.457,.458,.482,.483highlights.459history.480-1internet.resources.458itineraries.458money.458,.483people.481planning.457-8politics.480,.481postal.services.483public.holidays.483safety.483telephone.services.483tourist.information.483travel.to/from.458,.484travel.within.484visas.484

Serbian.(language).633-4Sfântu.Gheorghe.443-4Sgombou.307Shipka.Pass.138Shkodra.46-8Shumen.144-5Sibiu.418-20Side.576-7Sighetu.Marmaţiei.428,.430Sighişoara.416-18Sinaia.409-12Sithonian.Peninsula.267Sitia.291Skala.Eresou.301,.303Skanderbeg.50Skiathos.303-4skiing.613Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.84,.85,.109Bulgaria.126,.129Macedonia.349Montenegro.386,.388Romania.409Serbia.479Slovenia.504,.506,.507Turkey.545,.600

Škocjan.Caves.510-11Skopelos.304-5Skopje.339-48,.342-3accommodation.341-3drinking.345entertainment.345-6festivals.&.events.341food.343-5information.347itineraries.340shopping.346-7

sights.340-1travel.to/from.346,.347travel.within.348

Slovene.(language).638-9Slovenia.485,.487accommodation.485,.520-1arts.519-20budget.486business.hours.521climate.485drinking.486,.520embassies.521environment.520exchange.rates.486festivals.&.events.521food.485,.486,.520,.521highlights.487history.518-19internet.access.522internet.resources.486itineraries.486money.486,.522people.519planning.485-6postal.services.522public.holidays.522telephone.services.522tourist.information.522-3travel.to/from.486,.523travel.within.523visas.523

Smederevo.469Smolyan.135-6Snagov.Lake.412Soča.Valley.507-9Sofia.116-25,.118-19accommodation.117,.120-1drinking.121-2entertainment.122food.121information.123shopping.123sights.116-17travel.to/from.123-4travel.within.125

Solin.205Sougia.290Southern.Bucovina.436-9,.437Sozopol.158-60Sparta.259-60Spetses.271Spinalonga.Island.291Split.204-11,.206-7accommodation.208-9activities.207-8drinking.209-10entertainment.209-10festivals.&.events.208

food.209history.204information.210sights.204-7travel.to/from.210-11travel.within.211

Sporades.303-5Sremski.Karlovci.475St.George’s.Island.372Stari.Most.(Mostar).86,.17Stemnitsa.259Stobi.359Stolac.95-6Stoliv.372Štrbački.Buk.104Subotica.474Suceava.435-6Suceviţa.438-9Süleyman.the.Magnificent.527Sulina.442-3surfing,.see.windsurfingSveti.Konstantin.154Sveti.Stefan.377-8Symi.295synagoguesDubrovnik.219Oradea.426-7Sighetu.Marmaţiei.428Subotica.474

tTaÿgetos.Mountains.260,.261telephone.services.618-19,.seealso

individualcountriestelevision.611Termessos.576Terraneo.Festival.24Thessaloniki.264-7,.265Theth.48Thira,.see.SantoriniTikveš.358-9time.619Timişoara.423-6tipping.616Tirana.39-46,.40accommodation.42-3drinking.43-4entertainment.44festivals.&.events.42food.43information.44-5shopping.44sights.39-42tours.42travel.to/from.45-6travel.within.45-6

Tivat.375-6toilets.619

653iN

DeX T-ZTopola.469tourist.information.619,.seealso

individualcountriestours.627Tragaea.277train.travel.18,.622,.627-9Transylvania.16,.408-23,.410-11travel.money.cards.617travel.seasons.18travel.to/from.Southeastern.Europe.

19,.621-2travel.within.Southeastern.Europe.

622-9travellers.cheques.616Travnik.99-100Trebinje.96-7trekking,.see.hikingTreska.Canyon.348Trogir.211-12Troy.549Trpejca.354Truva.549Tsarevo.160Tulcea.440-2Turkey.525-608,.528-9accommodation.525,.599activities.599-600budget.600business.hours.600climate.525culture.596-7customs.regulations.600drinking.526,.598embassies.600employment.605environment.597-8food.525,.526,.598,.601health.601highlights.528-9history.593-5internet.access.601itineraries.526money.526,.601-2population.595public.holidays.602resources.526safety.603telephones.603tourist.information.603travel.to/from.526,.605travel.within.607-8visas.604volunteering.604

Turkish.(language).639-41Tzermiado.291

UUçhisar.587Ulcinj.379-80

Umoljani.85Ürgüp.587-8

Vvacations,.see.public.holidaysVadu.Izei.431Valbonë.48Valea.Izei.430-2Vama.Veche.446-7Van.592-3Varna.149-53,.150-1Vasiliki.308Vasilikos.Peninsula.311Vataša.359Vathy.298-9,.310vegetarian.travellersAlbania.64Croatia.229Kosovo.335Montenegro.391Serbia.482

Veliko.Târnovo.139-44,.140Venizelos,.Prime.Minister..

Eleftherios.313Verudela.Peninsula.189Vidin.161Vikos.Gorge.269Vintgar.Gorge.500Virpazar.382visas.19,.619-20Viscri.417Višegrad.97-8Visoko.98-9Vitosha.Nature.Park.126Vlora.54-5Vojvodina.471-4Volosko.200Voroneţ.437-8Voulismeni.Lake.291Vourliotes.299Vozarci.359Vrbas.Canyons.103Vuno.56Vyros.Gorge.262

Wwalking,.see.hikingwaterskiing.(Bulgaria).155weather,.see.climatewebsites,.see.internet.resourcesweights.611Western.Union.617white.water.rafting.220-1,.230windsurfing.230,.308,.600wineAlbania.64Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.95

Bulgaria.114,.165-6Croatia.228Greece.257,.282,.316-17Kosovo.326Macedonia.338Montenegro.368Romania.451Slovenia.520

women.travellers.620Albania.66Montenegro.393Turkey.604

work.620WWI.546Bosnia.&.Hercegovina.106Bulgaria.163Romania.448Slovenia.519

WWIIBosnia.&.Hercegovina.106Bulgaria.163Romania.448Slovenia.519

yyachting.230Yugoslavia.225,.391

ZŽabljak.387Zadar.202-4Zagorohoria.269Zagreb.173,.176-88,.176-7accommodation.181-2drinking.183-4entertainment.184-5festivals.&.events.180-1food.182-3gay.&.lesbian.travellers.184history.173information.185-6itineraries.179shopping.185sights.173,.178-80tours.180travel.to/from.186,.187travel.within.186,.188

Zakros.287Zakynthos.310-12Zakynthos.Town.311Želenkovac.104Zelve.Valley.587Zemun.471Zlatibor.478-80Zlatni.Rt.192ZorbatheGreek.315

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