behind the scenes - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/central-asia-6-index.pdf · 506...
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504
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Thomas Allen, Steven Aspland B Don Beer, Leon Boelens, Pierre Brouillet, Joe Bryant C James Chance, Arthur Clement De Givry, Judy Comont D Matthew Dearden, Kieran Drake, Paul-Noël Dumont F Sara FrauG Bas Geelen, Ask Gudmundsen H MargaretHawthorn, PJ Henry, Miriam Herzfeld, Allan Hubble, Aaron Hurd J Martin Jaeckel, Nathan Jones, Martin Jung K Wolfgang Keller, David Kerkhoff, Tyler Keys, Hans-Werner Kopp, Mar-tin Král, Aleksandra Krukar L Eric-Jan Lens, Fabian Liechti M Richard Mallett, Helena Moon, Martijn Munneke N Arihe (Eric) Nee-mann, Pascal Noel P Nina Plumbe, Jo Py-croft R Jacqueline Ripart, Steve Rogowski, Michal Rudziecki S Martina Schroeter, Tanya Semyonova, Roberto Spanghero T Frank Techel V Marinus Vissers W Stefan Wieser, Barry Wilkinson, Kathleen Williams, Sabine Wissel, Barbara Wolfke, Sebastian Wolking, Stephen Wong Y Robert Young
AUTHOR THANKS Bradley MayhewThanks to stalwart co-authors Tom, John, Mark and our anonymous Turkmenistan author. Hard to find a more dedicated and professional bunch of Central Asian travel enthusiasts. Thanks to the much-missed Suzannah Shwer for getting this title up and running one more time.
Mark ElliottA giant rakhmat to Umar Isakov, Anna Keil, Ervin Bartis and family, Janice Setser, Zhandiya Zoolshooeva, Christophe and Nicole, Ed Hewitt, Chris Mathis, Andrew Tucker-Peake, Alick Warburton, Jop Weterings, Phil Riddle, Robin Ord-Smith, Zafar in Penjikent, Will Cooper, Sang Wang, Clement Meynier, Aspia, Flora Renner, the Pamir Lodge crew, Lola, Murat and friends, Aleema Shivji, Taalai and family in Karakol, the memory of Wil Klass. Back home, a mil-lion thanks to ‘the Kids’ for endless support, tea and medals. And to Harriet for waiting and sharing.
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.
Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES505
Tom MastersBig thanks to my team of fellow authors: Bradley Mayhew, Mark Elliott, John Noble and Turkmenistan’s anonymous author for all their help and intelligence sharing. Thanks also to Janine and the entire in-house team at LPHQ in Melbourne (you shall all be missed!). On the road, a huge debt of gratitude to my intrepid and im-mensely patient mother, who negotiated the deserts of Uzbekistan with me with hardly a complaint at the complete lack of caffeine and wireless, and who dutifully slogged around towns with me all day visiting various hotels, medressas and museums. Big thanks also to the team at Advantour in Tashkent, particularly Murod and Feruza; to David Berghof at Stantours; to Dowlet and Sasha in Samarkand; Gulnara and Hamid in Bukhara; Hannelore Bendsen in Khiva and the crew at the Jipek Joli in Nukus, especially Era and Aijamal.
John NobleA project like this is quite impossible without willing help from a whole lot of people. Extra special thanks to Robert and Assely Manson, David Berghof, Svetlana Baskakova, Serik Dyusenbaev, Alikhan and Askar Abdeshev, Vitaly Shuptar, Dagmar Schreiber, Karlygash Makatova, Alexander Petrov, Andrey Yurch-enkov, Ali Hudabardy Tash (Kashgar Tourism International, China), Zhamilya Zhukenova, and my fellow authors Bradley, Mark, Tom and the Turkmenistan author.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate maps data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.Cover photograph: Char Minar, Bukhara,Uzbekistan. Michele Falzone/Corbis ©
THIS BOOK This 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s Central Asia guidebook was researched and written by Bradley Mayhew, Mark Elliott, Tom Masters, John Noble and an anonymous author for Turkmenistan. This guide-book was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Suzannah Shwer
Coordinating Editors Lauren Hunt, Amanda WilliamsonSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepManaging Editors Sasha Baskett, Brigitte EllemorSenior Editor Karyn NobleAssisting Editors Paul Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Kate Kiely, Alan MurphyAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Mick Garrett, James Leversha
Cover Research Naomi ParkerLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Anita Banh, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Errol Hunt, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Anne Mason, Catherine Naghten, Chad Parkhill, Trent Paton. Martine Power, Dianne Schall-meiner, Luna Soo, John Taufa, Angela Tinson
506
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
4WDs 45-6, 48, 313, 368, 486
Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95Pamires, the 338-9Wakhan Valley 350
Aaccommodation 462-3, see
also individual locationsAchik-Tash (Kyr) 297activities 24-5, 40-6, see
also individual locationsbird watching 46, 73, 85,
86, 107, 126, 186, 258camel trekking 43, 186-7,
202-3, 221, 363heli-skiing 45, 159, 305horse racing 61, 83,
306, 382horse riding 43, 87, 114,
124, 186, 257, 274, 304, 324-5, 377
ice skating 71-2mountain biking 43-4, 72,
263, 287mountaineering 44-5, 77,
78, 251, 263-4, 287, 297, 305, 329, 363
nut harvesting 287 rafting 44, 114, 159, 233,
305rock climbing 44-5, 251,
297, 305sailing 93, 255snow sports 45, 71-2, 159,
267, 287, 305, 326
trekking 14, 15, 20-1, 74-5, 77, 78, 111, 114, 158-9, 251, 266-7, 268-9, 272-3, 273-5, 282, 287, 305, 317, 325, 327, 363, 7, 14, 15
wildlife watching 85, 86Afghan Wakhan (Taj)
352, 367 Afghanistan
border crossings 226, 348, 352, 367, 404-5
relations with 428-9 visas to 224, 308, 352,
366, 403Afrosiab (Uz) 174-5Aga Khan 361airlines 479-80, see also
individual locationsairports 478-9, see also
individual locationsair travel 478-82, 485-6,
see also individual locations
Ak-Baital (White Horse) Pass (Taj) 356
Akhal-Teke horses 377, 399-400, 457
Ak-Saray Palace (Uz) 181-2Ak-Suu (Kyr) 297Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature
Reserve (Kaz) 85-6, 126Aktau (Kaz) 93-6, 94Aktobe (Kaz) 135Akyrtas (Kaz) 81Ala-Archa Canyon
(Kyr) 250-2Alaudin Lakes (Taj) 329Alay Valley (Kyr) 296-7Alexander the Great 411-12Almaty (Kaz) 16, 56-71,
58-9, 5, 16accommodation 62-4activities 60-1drinking & nightlife 65-6entertainment 66festivals & events 61-2food 64-5
history 56information 67-9registration 68shopping 66-7sights 56-60tours 61, 68-9travel to/from 69-70travel within 70-1
Altay Mountains (Kaz) 23, 111
Altyn-Arashan (Kyr) 265-6Altyn Asyr Market
(Tur) 376-7Altyn-Emel National Park
(Kaz) 78ALZhIR Museum-Memorial
Complex (Kaz) 106amin 474Amir Timur Museum
(Uz) 183amoebic dysentery 493amusement parks,
see also waterparksAstana (Kaz) 98Shymkent (Kaz) 83
ancient Khorezm (Uz) 202ancient Penjikent (Taj) 331-2Andijon (Uz) 168-9Andijon massacre 161,
215-16, 429animal market (Kyr) 258-9Anzob Tunnel (Taj) 326Aral Sea (Kaz) 22, 91-3,
459-60Aral Sea (Uz) 22, 212, 213,
216, 459-60Aralsk (Aral) (Kaz) 91-3archaeological sites 23, 357
Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve petroglyphs (Kaz) 85
Akyrtas (Kaz) 81Altay Mountains (Kaz) 111Altyn-Emel National Park
(Kaz) 78ancient Khorezm 202-3ancient Penjikent (Taj)
331-2
Ark (Uz) 193Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95Burana Tower (Kyr) 252-3Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3Erk Kala (Tur) 390Fayoz-Tepe (Uz) 184Gonur Depe (Tur) 391Ice House (Tur) 390Kara-Tepe (Uz) 184Kyz Kala (Tur) 390Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7Mizdakhan (Uz) 214Otyrar-Tobe (Kaz) 87Sauran (Kaz) 89Shakhty (Taj) 355-6Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97Sherkala (Kaz) 97Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97Sultan Kala (Tur) 390-1Tamgaly petroglyphs
(Kaz) 78Temir Abdal Ata
cave-shrine (Kaz) 97Ulugbek’s Observatory
(Uz) 175architectural sites
Astana (Kaz) 12, 22, 98-99, 102-3, 100-1, 2, 12, 23
Ashgabat (Tur) 374-5Karakol (Kyr) 259Khojand (Taj) 335 Samarkand (Uz) 20, 171-6Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-9,
88, 17Uralsk (Oral) (Kaz) 135
architecture 451-4highlights 52, 452Islamic 49, 171-3, 189-95,
205-7. 334, 390-1, 451Silk Road 20Soviet 147, 232
Ark (Uz) 193Arslanbob (Kyr) 286-8arts 446-50, see also
literature, music
ABBREVIATIONSKaz KazakhstanKyr KyrgyzstanTaj TajikistanTur TurkmenistanUz Uzbekistan
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
507IN
DEX A-C
Ashgabat (Tur) 22, 374-84, 376-7, 380
accommodation 378-9activities 377drinking & nightlife 381-2entertainment 382food 379-81history 374information 382-3sights 374-7travel to/from 383-4travel within 384
Asrlar Sadosi Festival 24Astana Day 103Astana (Kaz) 12, 22,
98-106, 100-1, 2, 12, 23
accommodation 103-4drinking & nightlife 105festivals & events 103food 104-5information 105sights 98-9, 102-3tours 103travel to/from 105-6travel within 106
At Chabysh 353At Chabysh Horse
Festival 25ATMs 471Atyrau (Kaz) 134-5Ayni (Taj) 329-30Azerbaijan
border crossings 484visas to 129, 224, 403
BBabur, Zahiruddin 168,
291-2, 418, 419Bactria Centre (Taj) 323Badai-Tugai Biosphere
Reserve (Uz) 202Badakhshani rubies 348bargaining 472-3Barskoön (Kyr) 270-1Bartang Valley (Taj) 342-3bathhouses,
see also springsAlmaty (Kaz) 60-1Altyn-Arashan
(Kyr) 265-6Bishkek (Kyr) 233Bukhara (Uz) 195
Baykonur Cosmodrome (Kaz) 22, 34, 90
bazaars 15, 21, 2, 15Alamedin Bazaar
(Kyr) 244Altyn Asyr Market
(Tur) 376-7Animal Market
(Kyr) 258-9Barakholka (Kaz) 67Bazar Samal (Kaz) 82-3Bukhara (Uz) 191Central (Upper) Bazaar
(Kaz) 81Chorsu Bazaar
(Uz) 146-7Fergana (Uz) 165Green Bazaar (Taj) 317Green Market (Kaz) 59Ishkashim (Taj) 348Istaravshan (Taj) 334Jahon Bazaar (Uz) 168Kumtepa Bazaar
(Uz) 167-8Osh Bazaar
(Kyr) 244, 292Özgön (Kyr) 289Panchshanbe Bazaar
(Taj) 335Shahriston Market
(Uz) 198Shakhristan Market
(Kaz) 80Tezykovka Bazaar
(Uz) 154Urgut (Uz) 181, 4, 21Zelyony (Tur) 387
Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95Belogorka Waterfall
(Kyr) 252beshbarmak 465Bibi-Khanym Mosque
(Uz) 173bird watching 46, 73,
85, 86, 107, 126, 186, 258
Bishkek (Kyr) 232-50, 234-5, 240, 250
accommodation 234-9
activities 233drinking & nightlife
242-3entertainment 243festivals &
events 233-4history 232information 244-6registration 245shopping 244sights 232-3tours 245-6travel to/from 246-9 travel within 249-50visas 245
black market 223, 471Bokonbayevo (Kyr) 272-3
border crossings 35-9, 38-9, 16
Afghan Wakhan (Taj) 352, 367
Afghanistan 226, 367, 404-5
Azerbaijan 484China 132, 296, 310-11,
367-8, 482, 484 Friendship Bridge
(Uz) 226Iran 405, 484 Irkeshtam Route
(Kyr) 310issues 298Kazakhstan 132-3, 226,
311, 406 Kyrgyzstan 132-3, 226,
310-11, 368 Mongolia 133Qolma (Kulma) Pass
(Taj) 367-8Russia 132, 134-5, 482-4Tajikistan 226-7, 295-6,
311, 348, 352, 356, 366-8
Turkmenistan 133, 227, 404-6
Torugart Route (Kyr) 310-11, 284
Uzbekistan 133, 226-7, 311, 368, 406
Western Europe–Western China Highway (Kaz) 134, 482
bride kidnapping 301brucellosis 492budget 19, 53, 138, 229,
313, 371Bukhara (Uz) 11, 187-200,
188-9, 11, 417accommodation 195-7activities 195drinking & nightlife 198festivals & events 195food 197history 187-9information 198-9registration 199shopping 198sights 189-95tours 195travel to/from 199-200travel within 200
Bukhara’s Jews 194Burana Tower
(Kyr) 252-3business hours 19bus travel 482-3, 486buzkashi 306, 440
Ccamel trekking 43, 186-7,
202-3, 221, 363Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3Nurata (Uz) 187-8
caravanserais 28, 284-5, 434, 454, 16
carpets & textiles 21, 123, 399, 446-7, 15
customs 153, 400-1workshops 179, 198,
209-10museums 191, 374-5
car travel 482-3, 486-7cell phones 18, 476Central Asia highlights
8-9, 8-9Central State Museum
(Kaz) 56, 67Central Tian Shan (Kaz)
77-8ceramics 168, 179, see
also tilesmuseums 168workshops 179
chabysh 306Char Minar (Uz) 194Charyn Canyon (Kaz) 77Chatyr-Köl (Kyr) 285children, travel with 463-4Chimbulak (Kaz) 71-3China
border crossings 132, 296, 310-11, 367-8, 482, 484
relations with 412, 413, 430
visas to 34, 129, 224, 308, 366
Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 255-8, 256
Chong Ak-Suu Valley (Kyr) 258
Chong-Kemin Valley (Kyr) 253
climate 18, 24-5, 18Kazakhstan 52Kyrgyzstan 228Tajikistan 312Turkmenistan 370Uzbekistan 137
climate change 480community-based tourism
15, 20, 47-8, 247, 15 see also homestays, yurtstays
Ecotourism Information Resource Centre (EIRC) (Kaz) 68
Kochkor (Kyr) 277-8
508
INDEX C
-H
community-based tourism continued
Kyrgyzstan 228Murgab Ecotourism
Association (META) (Taj) 354
Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 186
Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism Association (PECTA) (Taj) 47
Wild Nature (Kaz) 86Zerafshan Tourism
Development Association (ZTDA) (Taj) 333
Conolly, Captain Arthur 192consulates, see embassies
& consulatescourses 233, 323, 470craft 447credit cards 471-2culture 22, 435-41Culture Ministry Antiques
Certification Office (Uz) 153
currency 18, see also budget, money, individual locations
customs 464cycling, see mountain
biking
Ddangers, see also health,
safetyKazakhstan 67Kyrgyzstan 244, 305Tajikistan 363-4Turkmenistan 382, 401Uzbekistan 221
Darshai (Taj) 349Darvaza Gas Craters
(Tur) 22, 385Dashogus (Tur) 396Dawn of Freedom
Monument (Kaz) 59-60
documents 125, 464Dolinka (Kaz) 111-12Dostoevsky Museum
(Kaz) 116, 421Dostoevsky, Fyodor
116, 420dragon horses 413drinking 467-8
Dushanbe (Taj) 316-26, 318-19
accommodation 317-20activities 317drinking & nightlife 322entertainment 323food 321-2history 316information 323registration 323shopping 323sights 316-17tours 323travel to/from 323-5 travel within 325-6
Eeconomy 408-9, 430,
see also individual countries
Ecotourism Information Resource Centre (EIRC) (Kaz) 68
electricity 465, 473embassies & consulates
Kazakhstan 124-6Kyrgyzstan 306-7Tajikistan 364-5Turkmenistan 401 Uzbekistan 221-2
emergencies 19, 495-6emergency numbers
Kazakhstan 127Turkmenistan 382 Uzbekistan 154
environment 455-60environmental issues 422,
459-60Aral Sea (Kaz) 92,
459-60Kazkhstan 124Kumtor Gold Mine 303Kyrgyzstan 303nuclear testing 115-16,
118-19, 459Semey (Semipalatinsk)
(Kaz) 116, 118-19Tajikistan 362Turkmenistan 400
Erk Kala (Tur) 390ethnic minorities 439etiquette 469 events, see festivals &
eventsexchange rates
Kazakhstan 53Kyrgyzstan 229Tajikistan 313Turkmenistan 371
Uzbekistan 138Expo 2017 (Kaz) 105
FFan Mountains (Taj) 15,
326-33, 328-9, 15 felt rugs 279, 446-7, 15Fergana (Uz) 164-7, 166Fergana Valley (Uz) 160-9,
160festivals & events 24-5,
469, 470buzkashi 440Kazakhstan 126, 127Kyrgyzstan 233-4, 258,
307, 308Turkmenistan 401-2Uzbekistan 176
Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan (Uz) 144
Fine Arts Museum, Semey (Kaz) 117
folk art 446food 465-9, 502-3,
see also individual locations
food glossary 502-3fortresses
ancient Khorezm (UZ) 202
Bukhara (Uz) 193Elliq-Qala (Uz) 202-3Hissar (Hisor) Fort
(Taj) 326Hulbuk Fortress-Palace
(Taj) 341Istaravshan (Taj) 334Khaakha Fortress
(Taj) 349Khiva (Uz) 205-6Khojand (Taj) 335Merv (Tur) 390Mizdakhan (Uz) 214Sauran (Kaz) 89Wakhan Valley (Taj) 13,
350, 4Yamchun (Zulkhomar)
Fort (Taj) 349Friendship Bridge (Uz) 226Frunze, Mikhail Vasilievich
232-3
GGAI 482Garm (Taj) 324-5gay travellers 469GBAO permit 339, 366, 367geography 455-6geology 456giardiasis 493
glossary 500-2glossary (food) 502-3Golden Man (Altyn Adam)
62, 103, 411Gonur Depe (Tur) 391Gonur (Tur) 391Gozli Ata (Tur) 386Great Game 359, 422-3Great Horde 121, 416-17,
435Greig’s tulip 85Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum
(Uz) 174Gutlug Timur Minaret
(Tur) 16, 395, 16
HHaft-Kul (Taj) 333health 490-4, see also
dangers, safetyheli-skiing 45, 159, 305hepatitis 492hiking, see trekkingHissar (Hisor) Fort
(Taj) 326history 410-30, see also
individual countriesHistory Museum of the
People of Uzbekistan (Uz) 144
hitching 487HIV 492homestays 15, 20, 50,
462-3, see also community-based tourism, yurtstays
Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (Kaz) 86
Arslanbob (Kyr) 287-8Jizeu Valley (Kyr) 342-3Kochkor (Kyr) 277Kyrgyzstan 247, 304Naryn (Kyr) 282-3Nuratau-Kyzylkum
Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 186
Pamirs, the (Kyr) 338Penjikent (Taj) 333Sayram-Ugam National
Park (Kaz) 87Tajikistan 312
horse racing 61, 83, 306, 382
horse riding 43, 87, 114, 124, 186, 257, 274, 304, 324-5, 377
horses, see also horse racing, horse riding
Akhal-Teke 377, 399-400domestication 411dragon 413
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
509IN
DEX H-K
festivals 24, 353Przewalski’s horses 123,
263, 458sports 25, 306, 440
Iice skating 71-2Ichon-Qala (Uz) 20, 205IGPA (Issyk-Köl Guides
& Porters Association) 263
Ile-Alatau National Park (Kaz) 73
immigration 478Independence Square
(Tur) 374India 308-9insurance
car 482-3health 490travel 470
internet access 470, see also individual locations
internet resources 19, 53, 127, 138, 229, 313, 371, 408, 490
tours 488train travel 484
Iranborder crossings 405,
484visas to 224, 309, 403
Irkeshtam Pass (Kyr) 310
Isfandiyar Palace (Uz) 207
Isfara (Taj) 337Ishkashim (Taj) 348-9Iskander-Kul (Taj) 326-8Islam 414, 442-5Istaravshan (Taj) 334-5itineraries 26-30, 26-30
Kazakhstan 53Kyrgyzstan 229Tajikistan 313Turkmenistan 371Uzbekistan 138
JJafr (Taj) 325Jalal-Abad (Kyr) 288-9jekai 254Jeti-Öghüz (Kyr) 267-70Jewish quarters
Bukhara (Uz) 194Samarkand (Uz) 175
Jizeu Valley (Taj) 342-3
KKadji-Sai (Kyr) 272-3Kalon Minaret (Uz) 11,
20, 192, 11Karaganda (Karagandy)
(Kaz) 108-11, 109 Karaganda Ecological
Museum (Kaz) 109Karakalpakstan 22, 210-15Karakol (Kyr) 258-64, 260,
266-7accommodation
259-62activities 259drinking & nightlife 262food 262information 262-3shopping 262-3sights 258-9travel to/from 264travel within 264
Karakol Valley (Kyr) 266-7Karakul (Taj) 356Karakum Desert
(Tur) 384-5Karkara Valley (Kaz) 77Karkara Valley (Kyr) 258KarLag Museum
(Kaz) 111-12Kazakhstan 49, 52-136,
54-5, 76accommodation 124activities 124architecture 52arts 123border crossings 132-5,
226, 311, 406climate 52costs 53culture 122customs 124dangers 67drinking & nightlife 127economy 119-20embassies & consulates
124-6environment 123-4exchange rates 53festivals & events
126, 127food 127highlights 54-5history 120-2internet access 127internet resources
53, 127itineraries 53language 496-7money 127
parks & reserves 52peoples 122, 435-6permits 53, 129planning 52-3politics 119-20public holidays 127registration 127-8religion 123safety 128telephone services 127,
128-9tourist information 68travel seasons 52travel to/from 131-3travel within 136visas to 53, 130-1, 224,
309, 403volunteering 131weather 52
Kazakhstan Independence Day 25
Kazarman (Kyr) 282-3Khan, Abylay 107-8Khan, Chinggis (Genghis)
120-1, 397, 416-17, 428Konye-Urgench (Tur)
16, 394 Merv (Tur) 389Otrar (Kaz) 87
Khan Shatyr (Kaz) 98, 12Khan’s Palace (Uz) 161-2Khiva (Uz) 12, 203-10, 204,
2-3, 12, 424accommodation 207-8drinking 208-9entertainment 209food 208-9history 203-4information 210shopping 209-10sights 204-7tours 207travel to/from 210
Khojand (Taj) 335-7, 336Khorezm (Uz) 22,
200-10, 201Khorog (Taj) 343-7, 344Kochkor (Kyr) 276-8, 277Kokand (Uz) 161-4, 162-3Kök-Jaiyk (Kyr) 268-9Kolsay Lakes (Kaz) 76-7Köl-Ükök (Kyr) 278Konye-Urgench (Tur) 16,
393-6, 16Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve
(Kaz) 107Koshoy Korgon (Kyr) 284Köw Ata Underground
Lake (Tur) 385-6
Kuhna Ark (Uz) 205-6, 2-3Kulob (Taj) 341Kumtepa Bazaar (Uz) 167-8Kumtor (Kyr) 270kumys 468Kunanbaev, Abay 117, 120Kurchatov (Kaz) 34, 118-19kurutob 321kymys, see kumys Kyrgyzstan 50, 228-311,
230-1accommodation 228,
304arts 302-3border crossings 132-3,
226, 310-11, 368climate 228community-based
tourism 228, 247, 15costs 229customs 305dangers 244, 305drinking 303-4economics 299embassies & consulates
306-7environment 303exchange rates 229festivals & events 258,
287, 307, 308food 303-4highlights 230-1history 299-301internet access 307internet resources 229itineraries 229language 497money 308peoples 301-2, 436-7permits 34, 229, 308planning 228-9politics 299public holidays 308registration 308religion 302safety 305tourist information 245,
263, 295travel seasons 228travel to/from 309-11travel within 311visas to 129, 224, 229,
308-9, 403weather 228
Kyrgyzstan Independence Day 25
Kyz Kala (Tur) 390kyz-kumay 306Kyzylorda (Kaz) 90-1
510
INDEX L-M
Llabour camps
Dolinka (Kaz) 111-12Malinovka (Kaz) 106
labour camps continuedSpassk (Kaz) 112
laghman 465Lake Burabay (Kaz) 107-8Lake Issyk-Köl
Northern Issyk-Köl 254-70
Southern Issyk-Köl 270-3
lakesAlaudin Lakes (Taj) 329Haft-Kul (Taj) 333Kara-Kul (Taj) 356Kolsay Lakes (Kaz) 76-7Köw Ata Underground
Lake (Tur) 385-6Lake Burabay (Kaz)
107-8Lake Issyk-Köl (Kyr)
253-73Lake Sarez (Taj) 343Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14,
273-6, 14Ozero Bolshoe Almatin-
skoe (Kaz) 73Lake Sarez (Taj) 343Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14,
273-6, 14Langar (Taj) 350-1language 495-503
courses 233, 323, 470Pamiri 361
legal matters 470leishmaniasis 492lesbian travellers 469Letters of Invitation 32-3,
367, see also permits, registration, visas
Kazakhstan 130Kyrgyzstan 309Tajikistan 367Turkmenistan 404Uzbekistan 225
literature 408, 413, 447-9, see also individual countries
Lyabi-Hauz (Uz) 189-90
MMadiyan Valley (Taj) 355Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191
malaria 492Manas Air Base 299Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7maps 471Marco Polo sheep 362, 456Margeb (Taj) 329Margilon (Uz) 167-8markets, see bazaars Mary Regional Museum
(Tur) 386-7Mary (Tur) 386-8, 387mausoleums 453
Abdul-Aziz Baba (Kaz) 85
Abu Bakr Kaffal Shoshi (Uz) 147
Al-Hakim al-Termizi (Uz) 184
Aristan-Bab (Kaz) 87Aysha-Bibi (Kaz) 81Babazha-Khatun
(Kaz) 81Bibi-Khanym
Mausoleum (Uz) 173Chashma Ayub
Mausoleum (Uz) 193Dauitbek (Kaz) 80Dorut Tilyovat (Uz) 182Gozli Ata (Tur) 386Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum
(Uz) 174Il-Arslan (Tur) 395Ishratkhana Mausoleum
(Uz) 175-6Ismail Samani
Mausoleum (Uz) 193Karakhan (Kaz) 80Karashash-Ana (Kaz) 85Khazrati-Imam Complex
(Uz) 182Kokand (Uz) 162Mazor-i-Sharif (Taj) 331Mirali Bobo (Kaz) 85Mohammed ibn Zeid
(Tur) 390Nejameddin Kubra
(Tur) 394Pahlavon Mahmud
Mausoleum (Uz) 207Rabigha-Sultan
Begum (Kaz) 89Sheikh Massal ad-Din
(Taj) 335 Sheikhantaur
Mausoleum Complex (Uz) 139
Sultan Sanjar (Tur) 390Sultan Tekesh (Tur) 395Tomb of the Old
Testament Prophet Daniel (Uz) 174-5
Two Askhab (Tur) 390
Yasaui (Kaz) 88, 17Medeu (Kaz) 71-3media 221, 473medical services 491-2, see
also emergenciesmedressas 453
Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa (Uz) 192
Allakuli Khan Medressa (Uz) 206
Islom-Hoja Medressa (Uz) 207
Kulkedash Medressa (Uz) 147
Mir-i-Arab Medressa (Uz) 192-3
Mohammed Rakhim Khan Medressa (Uz) 206
Nadir Divanbegi Medressa (Uz) 191
Registan (Uz) 171-3, 21Sahib Mian Hazrat
Medressa (Uz) 163Ulugbek Medressa
(Bukhara, Uz) 191, 417Merv (Tur) 388-91minarets 453, see also
mosques Burana Tower
(Kyr) 252-3Gutlug Timur Minaret
(Tur) 16, 395, 16 Kalta Minor (Uz)
206, 2-3Kalon Minaret 11,
20, 192, 11mines
ruby 348gold 270, 303
Mizdakhan (Uz) 214mobile phones 18, 476money 18, 19, 53, 138, 223,
229, 313, 371, 471-3moneychanging 472Mongolia
border crossings 132Mongols 120-1, 299-300,
389, 394, 416-17mosques 452-3, 477, see
also minaretsBeket-Ata (Kaz) 95Bibi-Khanym Mosque
(Uz) 173Central Mosque (Kaz) 60Hazrat-Hizr Mosque
(Uz) 175Hazroti Imom Friday
mosque (Uz) 147Hilvet (Kaz) 89Hoja Zayniddin Mosque
(Uz) 195
Jami Mosque Museum (Uz) 163
Jome Mosque (Uz) 168Juma Mosque, Khiva
(Uz) 206 Juma Mosque, Tashkent
(Uz) 147Kalon Mosque (Uz) 192Maghoki-Attar (Uz) 191Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7Narbutabey Mosque
(Uz) 162Nur Astana Mosque
(Kaz) 99Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97Shopan-Ata (Kaz) 95Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97
mountain biking 43-4, 72, 263, 287
mountaineering 44-5, 77, 78, 251, 263-4, 287, 297, 305, 329, 363
Moynaq (Uz) 214-15Mug Teppe (Taj) 334Muqimi, Mohammedamin
163Murgab Ecotourism
Association (META) (Taj) 354
Murgab (Taj) 353-5Museum of Fine Arts
(Tur) 374museums & galleries
Afrosiab Museum (Uz) 174
Aktau regional museum (Kaz) 93
Amir Timur Museum (Uz) 183
Carpet Museum (Tur) 374-5
Central State Museum (Kaz) 56
Dostoevsky Museum (Kaz) 116, 421
Fayzulla Khojaev House (Uz) 194
Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan (Uz) 144
Historical-Cultural-Ethnographic Centre (Kaz) 88
History Museum of the People of Uzbekistan (Uz) 144
Karaganda Ecological Museum (Kaz) 109
Karakol regional museum 259
KarLag Museum (Kaz) 111-12
Kazakh Museum of Folk
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
511IN
DEX M-P
Musical Instruments (Kaz) 57
Kazakhstan History Museum (Kaz) 102
Kazakhstan Museum of Arts (Kaz) 57, 59
Konye-Urgench Museum (Tur) 394
Kyzylorda regional museum (Kaz) 90
Moyie Mubarek Library Museum (Uz) 147
Museum of Applied Arts (Uz) 207
Museum of Carpets (Uz) 191
Museum of Fine Arts (Tur) 374
Museum of the First President (Kaz) 103
Museum of Victims of Political Repression (Kaz) 82
National Museum, Ashgabat (Tur) 375
National Museum, Dushanbe (Taj) 316
National Museum of Antiquities of Tajikistan (Taj) 316
Presidential Cultural Centre (Kaz) 103
Rishton Ceramic Museum (Uz) 168
Rudaki Museum (Taj) 332
Savitsky Museum (Uz) 211-12
Shymkent regional museum (Kaz) 82
State Historical Museum (Kyr) 232
State Museum of Fine Arts (Kyr) 232
Taraz regional museum (Kaz) 79
Termiz Archaeological Museum (Uz) 183-4
music 448, 449
NNamadgut (Taj) 349Naryn (Kyr) 280-2, 281nasvai 465nasvar, see nasvainaswar, see nasvai National Museum,
Ashgabat (Tur) 375National Museum,
Dushanbe (Taj) 316National Museum of
Antiquities of Tajikistan
(Taj) 316National Nuclear Centre
(Kaz) 118national parks & reserves
52, 458, see also parks & gardens
Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature Reserve (Kaz) 85-6, 126
Ala-Archa State Nature Park (Kyr) 251-2
Altyn-Emel National Park (Kaz) 78
Badai-Tugai Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 202
Burabay National Nature Park (Kaz) 107-8
Chong-Kemin Valley (Kyr) 253
Ile-Alatau National Park (Kaz) 73
Karakol Valley (Kyr) 266-7
Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve (Kaz) 107
Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 186
Sayram-Ugam National Park (Kaz) 86-7
Tajik National Park (Taj) 346, 354, 356
Ugam-Chatkal National Park (Uz) 158-60
Zapadno-Altaysky (Western Altay) Nature Reserve (Kaz) 114
natural reources 430Navrus 24, 470Nazarbaev, Nursultan
119-20, 122Niyazov, Saparmyrat
(Turkmenbashi) 398Nodira 164nomadic empire 411nomads 22noz, see nasvainuclear testing 116, 118-19Nukus (Uz) 210-14Nurata (Uz) 186-7 Nuratau-Kyzylkum
Biosphere Reserve (Uz) 186
Oopening hours 19opium 358Osh Bazaar (Kyr) 292Osh (Kyr) 289-96, 290
accommodation 292-3
activities 292drinking 293-4food 293-4history 289, 291information 294-5shopping 294sights 291-2travel to/from 295-6travel within 296
Osman Quran 147, 445Otrar (Kaz) 87Ozero Bolshoe
Almatinskoe Area (Kaz) 73-5
Özgön (Kyr) 289
Ppainting 449-50Pakistan 224Palace of Independence
(Kaz) 99, 102Palace of Peace & Accord
(Kaz) 99Pamir Eco-Cultural Tourism
Association (PECTA) (Taj) 47
Pamir Highway (Taj) 17, 351-6, 5, 17
Pamiri people 361Pamirs, the (Taj)
23, 338-56, 340-1Bartang Valley 342-3Khorog 343-7, 344Murgab 353-5Pamir Highway 17, 20
351-6, 5, 17permits 339, 346planning 339registration 346Shokh Dara Valley
347-8travel to/from 338-9travel within 338-9Wakhan Valley (Taj)
13, 348-51, 4, 13parks & gardens, see also
national parks & reserves
Botanical Gardens (Taj) 317
Central (Gorky) Park (Kaz) 60
City Park (Kaz) 98Dubovy (Oak) Park
(Uz) 232Independence Park
(Tur) 375Kok-Tobe (Kaz) 57Levoberezhny Park
(Kaz) 113
Navoi Park (Uz) 147Panfilov Park (Kaz) 57 Park Zhastar (Kaz) 113
photography 473passports 125Peak Lenin (Kyr) 297PECTA (Pamirs Ecotourism
Association Information Centre) 346
Penjikent (Taj) 331-4, 331people 435-41permits 31-4, see
also visas, Letters of Invitation, registration
Kazakhstan 53, 129Kyrgyzstan 229, 305,
308Pamirs, the (Taj) 339,
346Peak Lenin (Kyr) 297Tajikistan 313, 366Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3,
7, 14trekking 41-2Turkmenistan 371, 403Uzbekistan 138, 224
petroglyphs 411Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature
Reserve (Kaz) 85Cholpon-Ata (Kyr) 256Langar (Taj) 350-1Nurata (Uz) 186Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283Tamgaly (Kaz) 78
Petropavlovsk (Petropavl) (Kaz) 135
planningactivities 40-6budgeting 18-19calendar of events 24-5Central Asia basics 18-19Central Asia regions
49-50climate 18-19, 18community-based
tourism 47-8, 15internet resources 18-19itineraries 26-30, 48,
26-30Kazakhstan 52-3Kyrgyzstan 228-9Tajikistan 312-13travel seasons 18-19,
24-5Turkmenistan 370-1Uzbekistan 137-8
plov 150, 465police 125politics 408-9, see also
individual countries
512
INDEX P
-T
population 409, see also individual countries
postal services 473Presidential Cultural
Centre (Kaz) 103Przewalski, Nikolai 259,
263Przewalski’s horses 123,
263, 458Pshart Valley (Taj) 355public holidays 469
Kazakhstan 127Kyrgyzstan 308Tajikistan 365Turkmenistan 401-2Uzbekistan 222
QQolma (Kulma) Pass 367-8Quran 442-3, 445qymyz, see kumys
Rrabies 492rafting 44, 114, 159, 233,
305, see also sailingRang-Kul (Taj) 355Rasht Valley (Taj) 324-5Registan (Uz) 20, 171-3registration 473, see
also Letters of Invitation, permits, visas
Ashgabat (Tur) 383Bishkek (Kyr) 245Bukhara (Uz) 199Kazakhstan 68, 127-8Kyrgyzstan 308Pamirs, the (Taj) 346Samarkand (Uz) 180Tajikistan 323, 366Turkmenistan 383, 402Uzbekistan 155, 222-4
religion 408-9, 414, 442-5, see also Islam, Sufism, individual countries
responsible travel 473-4Ridder (Kaz) 114Rishton (Uz) 168road names 57, 233rock climbing 44-5, 251,
297, 305Roof of the World
Festival 25
Rushan (Vomar) (Taj) 342Russia
border crossings 132, 134-5, 482-4
language 495-6relations with 121-2,
203-4, 217-18, 299, 300, 359-60, 397-8, 421, 423-9, 443-4
visas to 129, 224-5, 309
Ssafety 19, 474-5, see
also dangers, healthKazakhstan 128Kyrgyzstan 244, 305Tajikistan 363-4Turkmenistan 382, 401Uzbekistan 221
sailing 93, 255, see also rafting
Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283Samanid dynasty 120, 217,
358, 414Samarkand (Uz) 11, 169-81,
170-1, 10-11accommodation 176-8drinking 178-9festivals & events 176food 178-9history 169-70information 180registration 180shopping 179sights 170-6tours 176travel to/from 180-1travel within 181
Sarvoda (Taj) 328-9Sary-Mogol (Kyr) 296-7Sary Tash (Kyr) 296Sarytag (Taj) 327-8Sauran (Kaz) 89Savitsky Museum
(Uz) 211-12Sayram (Kaz) 84-5Sayram-Ugam National
Park (Kaz) 86sea travel 484Semey (Semipalatinsk)
(Kaz) 115-18, 116Seven Bulls (Kyr) 268Shah-i-Zinda (Uz) 20, 173,
10-11Shaimak (Taj) 355Shakhrisabz (Uz)
181-3, 182Shakhty (Taj) 355-6Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97shashlyk 465
Sheikhantaur Mausoleum Complex (Uz) 139
ship cemeteryKazakhstan 91 Uzbekistan 215
Shokh Dara Valley (Taj) 347-8
Shymkent (Kaz) 81-4, 82shyrdaks 279, 446-7, 15silk factory (Uz) 167-8Silk Road, the 20, 421,
431-4, 484, 432-3, 412Skazka Valley (Kyr) 272slavery 203snow leopards 457snow sports 45, 46, 71-2,
159, 267, 287, 305, 326Sokuluk Canyon (Kyr) 252Soviet Union, see RussiaSpassk (Kaz) 112sport 306springs, see also
bathhousesBibi Fatima Springs
(Taj) 349 Chashma Spring
(Uz) 186Madiyan (Taj) 355
State Historical Museum (Kyr) 232
State Museum of Fine Arts (Kyr) 232
Stoddart, Colonel Charles 192
street names, 57, 233Sufism 444-5Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97Sultan Kala (Tur) 390-1
TTajikistan 50, 312-69,
314-15accommodation 312,
363activities 363arts 360-2border crossings 226-7,
295-6, 311, 348, 352, 356, 366-8
climate 312costs 313culture 356-8dangers 363-4drinking & nightlife
362-3economy 356-8embassies & consulates
364-5environment 362exchange rates 313
festivals & events 365food 321, 362-3highlights 314-15history 358-60internet access 365internet resources 313itineraries 313language 498Letters of Invitation 367literature 363money 365people 13, 360, 361, 437permits 34, 313, 366planning 312-13politics 356-8public holidays 365registration 366safety 363-4telephone services 366tourist information
346, 354travel seasons 312travel to/from 366-8travel within 368, 369visas to 130, 225, 309,
313, 367, 403weather 312wildlife 362
Tajikistan Independence Day 25
Tamchy (Kyr) 255Tamga (Kyr) 270, 271Tamgaly petroglyphs
(Kaz) 78Taraz (Kaz) 79-81, 79Tashkent (Uz) 139-58,
142-3, 157, 159accommodation 147-9drinking & nightlife 152entertainment 152-3food 150-2history 139information 154-5registration 155shopping 153-4sights 139, 144-7tours 155travel to/from 155-7travel within 157-8 visas 155
Tash Rabat (Kyr) 16, 20, 284-5, 16
taxis 158, 487tea 469telephone services
18, 475-6, see also individual locations
Termiz Archaeological Museum (Uz) 183-4
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
513IN
DEX T-U Termiz (Uz) 183-6textiles, see carpets
& textilesTian Shan Astronomical
Observatory (Kaz) 73-4Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3, 7tiles 451, 454, see also
ceramics Timur (Tamerlane) 49,
417-18, 445, 451-2Konye-Urgench (Tur)
16, 394Otrar (Kaz) 87Samarkand (Uz)
11, 173, 174Shakhrisabz (Uz) 181-2Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-90,
Timurid dynasty 417-18tipping 472-3toilets 476Torugart Pass (Kyr)
284, 310-11, 284Tosor (Kyr) 271-2tourist information 476,
see also individual locations
Kazakhstan 68Kyrgyzstan 245, 263,
295Tajikistan 333, 346, 354Uzbekistan 180, 210
tours 488Almaty (Kaz) 61, 68-9Altay Mountains
(Kaz) 111Aral Sea (Uz) 212Aralsk (Kaz) 91Beket-Ata (Kaz) 95Bukhara (Uz) 195Darvaza Gas Craters
(Tur) 385Dolinka (Kaz) 112Dushanbe (Taj) 323Khiva (Uz) 207Korgalzhyn Nature
Reserve (Kaz) 107Kurchatov (Kaz) 118-19Kyrgyzstan 245-6Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7Samarkand (Uz) 176Sailmaluu Tash (Kyr) 283silk factory 167Spassk (Kaz) 112Turkmenistan 402-3wildlife 126, 356Yangykala Canyon
(Tur) 386Zapadno-Altaysky
(Western Altay) Nature Reserve (Kaz) 114
train travel 483-4, 488-9transport 478-89, see also
individual countriestravel documents 125, 464 travel insurance 470travellers’ diarrhoea 493travel seasons
Kazakhstan 52Kyrgyzstan 228Tajikistan 312Turkmenistan 370Uzbekistan 137
travel to/from Central Asia 478-85, see also individual countries, visas
travel within Central Asia 19, 485-9, see also individual countriesLetters of Invitation, permits, registration
trekking 14, 15, 20-1, 40-3, 14, 15
Ala-Archa Canyon (Kyr) 251
Almaty (Kaz) 74-5Altay Mountains
(Kaz) 111Arslanbob (Kyr) 287Central Tian Shan
(Kaz) 78, 272-3Dushanbe (Taj) 317 Fan Mountains
(Taj) 15, 327Jafr (Taj) 325Karakol (Kyr) 266-7,
268-9Karkara Valley (Kaz) 77Kyrgyzstan 305Lake Song-Köl (Kyr)
14, 273-5Naryn (Kyr) 282Tajikistan 363Tian Shan (Kyr) 272-3, Ugam-Chatkal National
Park (Uz) 158-9Zapadno-Altaysky
(Western Altay) Nature Reserve (Kaz) 114
Zerafshan Mountains (Taj) 327
tuberculosis 492TUK (Trekking Union of
Kyrgyzstan) 245-6Turabeg Khanym Complex
(Tur) 394-5Turkistan (Kaz) 17, 87-90,
88, 17Turkmenabat (Tur) 392-3,
392Turkmenbashi (Niyazov,
Saparmyrat) 398Turkmenbashi (Tur) 385Turkmenistan 50,
370-406, 372-3accommodation
370, 400activities 400arts 399border crossings
133, 227, 404-6climate 370costs 371customs 400-1dangers 382, 401drinking & nightlife
400economics 396-7embassies &
consulates 401environment 399-400exchange rates 371festivals & events
401-2food 370, 400highlights 372-3history 397-8internet access 402internet resources
371itineraries 371language 498-9literature 398media 400money 402peoples 399, 437-8permits 371, 403planning 370-1politics 396-7public holidays 401-2registration 383, 402religion 399safety 401telephone services
383, 402tours 402-3travel seasons 370travel to/from 404-6travel within 406visas to 130, 225,
371, 403, 404-5weather 370
Turkmenistan Independence Day 25
typhoid 492
UUgam-Chatkal National
Park (Uz) 158-60Ulugbek 418
Bukhara (Uz) 191
Samarkand (Uz) 170, 173, 174, 175
Shakhrisabz (Uz) 181-3, 182
underground mosquesBeket-Ata (Kaz) 95Hilvet (Kaz) 89 Mangistau (Kaz) 96-7Shakpak-Ata (Kaz) 97Shopan-Ata (Kaz) 95 Sultan Epe (Kaz) 97
Unesco World Heritage Sites 452
Uralsk (Oral) (Kaz) 135Urgench (Uz) 200-2Urgut (Uz) 181, 4, 21Ust-Kamenogorsk
(Oskemen) (Kaz) 112-15, 112
Uzbekistan 49, 137-227, 140-1
accommodation 137, 221activities 221arts 220black market 223border crossings
133, 226-7, 311, 368, 406
climate 137costs 138dangers 221drinking 220-1economy 215-17embassies
& consulates 221-2environment 220exchange rates 138festivals & events 222food 137, 220-1highlights 140-1history 217-20internet access 222internet resources 138itineraries 138language 499media 221, 307money 222people 18-19, 219,
438-9permits 138, 224planning 137-8politics 215-17public holidays 222registration 222-4religion 219safety 221telephone services 224travel seasons 137travel to/from 225-7travel within 227
514
INDEX U
-Z
Uzbekistan contiinuedvisas to 130, 138, 224-5,
309, 366, 403weather 137
Uzbekistan Independence Day 25
Vvaccinations 491vegetarians & vegans
321, 469video 473visas 18, 31-4, see also
individual countries, Letters of Invitation, permits, registration
visas (Kaz) 53, 130-1, 224, 309, 403, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration
to Azerbaijan 129to China 129to Kyrgyzstan 129to Russia 129to Tajikistan 130to Turkmenistan 130to Uzbekistan 130
visas (Kyr) 129, 224, 229, 308-9, 403, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration
to Afghanistan 308to China 308to India 308-9to Iran 309to Kazakhstan 309to Russia 309
to Tajikistan 309to Uzbekistan 309
visas (Taj) 130, 225, 309, 313, 367, 403, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration
to Afghanistan 352, 366to China 366to Uzbekistan 366
visas (Tur) 130, 225, 371, 403, 404-5, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration
to Afghanistan 403to Azerbaijan 403to Iran 403to Kazakhstan 403to Kyrgyzstan 403to Tajikistan 403to Uzbekistan 403
visas (Uz) 130, 138, 224-5, 309, 366, 403, see also Letters of Invitation, permits, registration
to Afghanistan 224to Azerbaijan 224to China 224to Iran 224to Kazakhstan 224to Kyrgyzstan 224to Pakistan 224to Russia 224-5to Tajikistan 225to Turkmenistan 225
volunteering 131, 476Vrang (Taj) 350
WWakhan Valley (Taj)
13, 348-51, 4, 13Wakhani, Mubarak
Kadam 350 waterparks, see
also amusement parksAlmaty (Kaz) 60Dushanbe (Taj) 317Nurek Reservoir
(Taj) 326weather 18, 24-5, 18
Kazakhstan 52Kyrgyzstan 228Tajikistan 312Turkmenistan 370Uzbekistan 137
Western Europe–Western China Highway (Kaz) 134, 482
wildlife 24-5, 456-8Kazakhstan 123, 126Kyrgyzstan 303Tajikistan 362Turkmenistan 399-400Uzbekistan 220
Wild Nature (Kaz) 86women travellers 477work 477
YYagnob Valley (Taj) 329Yamchun (Taj) 349Yamg (Taj) 350Yangykala Canyon
(Tur) 386
Yasaui, Kozha Akhmed 84, 87-8
Yasaui Mausoleum (Kaz) 15, 88, 17
Younghusband, Francis 422-3
yurtstays 15, 20, 463, see also community-based tourism, homestays
Kyrgyzstan 228, 304Lake Song-Köl (Kyr) 14,
274-5, 14Nurata (Uz) 186Tash Rabat (Kyr) 16, 20,
284-5, 16
ZZapadno-Altaysky (Western
Altay) Nature Reserve (Kaz) 114
Zerafshan Mountains (Taj) 326-33
Zerafshan Tourism Development Association (ZTDA) (Taj) 333
Zerafshan Valley (Taj) 330-1
Zhungarians 419-20Zong (Taj) 350Zoroaster 391Zoroastrianism 391, 444
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
519
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
Diving/SnorkellingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
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