behind the scenes - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/australia-19-index.pdf · behind...
TRANSCRIPT
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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alan Taylor, Anastasia Papaioannou, Andrea Edwards, Andrew Walter, Cathy Sohler, Daniel Richard, Jane Rushworth, Kathrin Schad, Kersti Esbjörnsson, Mary Munro, Patricia Aufderheide, Pauline Dejoux, Sain Alizada, Shelagh O’Brien
WRITER THANKSBrett AtkinsonThanks to Tourism WA and visitor information centres and Parks and Wildlife offices throughout the state. Cheers to Western Australia’s talented craft brewers for refreshment on the road, and special thanks to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for another opportunity to explore my spectacular neighbour. Thanks also to my fellow authors, Carolyn and Steve, and the industrious in-house editors and cartogra-phers. Final thanks to Carol for helping me devour the excellent Hippocampus gin and Temper Temper chocolate when I got home.
Anthony HamA very big thank you to Tasmin Waby for sending me out into some of Australia’s most beautiful corners and for her commitment to good writing. Thanks also to Liam, Sticks, Mandy Dwyer and so many others
who made my stay in the Northern Territory so mem-orable. And to my family who always keep the home fires burning – os quiero and I can’t wait to take you there next time.
Paul HardingThanks to all those travellers and locals who helped with company and advice on my journey through Queensland’s most remote corners, especially the helpful guys who got me out of vehicular trouble at Eliot Falls. Thanks to Tamara for coffee and a chat in Cairns, and to Tasmin at LP. But mostly to Hannah and Layla for being there.
Kate MorganBig thanks to Destination Editor Tasmin Waby for the opportunity to basically eat and drink my way around Melbourne’s best neighbourhoods! Thank you to Caro Cooper for suggestions and being a drinking partner on occasion, and to my partner Trent for all your help and support.
Charles Rawlings-WayHuge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to all the helpful souls I met and friends I reconnected with on the road in South Australia and Tasmania, who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the increas-ingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting around in the sunshine (‘Where’s daddy?’) – and made sure that Ione, Remy Liv and Reuben were fed, watered, schooled, tucked-in and read-to.
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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E SCENES
Andy SymingtonAs a prodigal Sydneysider returned for this project, I’ve had so much invaluable advice and help from friends about what’s going on in town that I can’t possibly thank them all. Tourist offices and more were helpful across the region. Particular gratitude, however, goes to Stephen Freiberg, Kate McGuin-ness, Hugh O’Keefe, Ben Hamilton, Matthew Beech, Iain and Amanda Ashley, Tasmin Waby and the LP team. And also, as ever, to my family.
Kate ArmstrongParticular thanks to Jacqui Loftus-Hills, Visit Vic-toria; Wendy Jones, Goulburn River Valley Tourism; Sue Couttie, Tourism Northeast; Marie Glasson, Greater Shepparton City Council; and Fran Martin, Echuca Visitor Information Centre. Finally, to my dear friends Sue Mulligan, Lou Bull and Emmo – with thanks.
Carolyn BainCovering such vast distances and calling to check on some astoundingly beautiful coastline was a joy – my thanks to Tasmin Waby for the com-mission, and to fellow WA scribes Brett Atkinson and Steve Waters for sharing info. In the west, sincere thanks to all those who guided me to find ancient rocks, manta rays, deserted beaches and breathtaking aerial panoramas, and also to those who shared a beer, a chat, travel tips and recommendations.
Cristian BonettoFirst and foremost, an epic thank you to Drew Westbrook for his hospitality and generosity. Sin-cere thanks also to Craig Bradbery, Tim Crabtree, Amy Ratcliffe, Leanne Layfield, Terese Finegan, Michael Flocke, Simon Betteridge, Annabel Sulli-van, Garry Judd and the many locals who offered insight and insider knowledge along the way. At Lonely Planet, a huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for her support and encouragement.
Peter DragicevichResearching this guidebook was an absolute pleasure, especially because of the wonderful company that I had on the road. Special thanks go to Braith Bamkin, Peter van Gaalen, Marg Toohey and Jo Stafford for all their practical assistance in Melbourne, and to David Mills and Barry Sawtell for the Canberra Morrissey safari. And cheers to all my eating and drinking buddies along the way, espe-cially Errol Hunt, Kim Shearman, Cristian Bonetto and Maryanne Netto.
Trent HoldenFirst up a massive thanks to Tasmin Waby for commissioning me to update the bulk of regional Victoria. Was an absolute honour to cover my home state. Totally blown away how much cool stuff there is to visit out here. Thanks to all the tourist visitor centres across the state, who are staffed by a fantastic team of volunteers who are doing a sensational job. Cheers to everyone else for giving me the time of day for a chat, and helping me put
together this new edition. As per always lots of love to my family, particularly my partner Kate, who I had the great fortune of having accompany me this time round.
Virginia MaxwellStaff at visitor information centres in Tasmania were almost universally knowledgeable, helpful and friendly. Particular thanks go to Jo in Wyn-yard, Bronwyn in Strahan and Michelle at Cradle Mountain. Thanks, too, to my travel companions Peter Handsaker and Catherine Hannebery, to Janni Soltys for first bringing Pumphouse Point to my attention and to Mandy Stroebel for her local insight.
Tamara ShewardSweaty Cairns hugs and hearty thanks to my friends, family, local experts and random ring-ins who helped me delve ever deeper into the wonders of my hometown and surrounds; it’s always an eye-opener being a traveller/travel writer in one’s own backyard. At LP, mega-thanks to Tasmin Waby for the gig, and for your eternal encouragement; and to chapter co-author Paul Harding. The biggest clink of the coconuts goes, as ever, to my favourite FNQers: my crazy crocodiles Dušan and Masha.
Tom SpurlingTo Tasmin for choosing me to go around again! To Goose for riding shotgun to Rockhampton and making me go for a jog. To Lucy for sleeping in the backseat and showing no interest in cryptic crosswords. To the bar staff in Ravenswood for reminding me why I wanted this job in the first place. To the Whitsundays for being discovered. To the Town of 1770 for providing so many openings at dinner parties (a number? Really?). To my children for not missing me very much (I will never forget that slight, O and P).
Benedict WalkerHuge thanks to Tasmin Waby/Tamsin Maybe from LP for taking me on for this awesome roadie and for sticking by me when I struck a few potholes along the way. To my sometime co-pilot, the lovely Sarah Sabell, for teaching me to drive stick and not fighting with me even once! And to my beautiful mum Trish, and the Cooks, who let me go off to do my own thing at a time of family grief. I live a weird and wonderful life but without your love and support, I’d have nothing and be nobody.
Steve WatersThanks to Trace and Heath, Brodie, Abbie, Meika and Kaeghan for midnight arrivals, James, Toby, John, Sam, Lauren, Dana and the rest of MC for gorge love, Di for making us a cuppa during the grand final, Unruly Ted for getting that trivia ques-tion, Roz and Megan for caretaking and especially Hamish and Kaz for sharing all those sunsets and sunrises and drowning out the dust, heat and cor-rugations with grace, good humour and lashings of ginger Matsos.
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Donna WheelerLove and gratitude to Juliette Claire for her inspi-ration and incredible regional knowledge. Thanks to ex-locals Peter Maclaine and Debbie Wheeler, especially for Pete’s surfing expertise. Thanks to Harry in Broadbeach, to the Byron skydivers and to Amanda and Simon in Brunswick Heads for great hospo insights. Thanks also to Nic Wrathall for your company during some long research days and Brigid Healy and Andrew King, Kate Dale, Darryn Devlin for Sydney homecoming love. Finally thanks to Joe Guario. for everything.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Sydney Trains Network and Sydney Ferries Network maps © Transport for NSW 2017. Train and ferry maps courtesy of Transport for NSW. Maps current at time of printing.Photograph p12, bottom: image courtesy of MONA Museum of Old and New Art, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia. Photographs p20, bottom, and page 60, top right: images courtesy of Tourism NT, Australia.Illustration pp72-3 by Javier Zarracina.Cover photograph: Aerial image photographed near Broome in Western Australia, shannonstent/Getty.
THIS BOOKThis 19th edition of Lonely Planet’s Australia guidebook was researched and written by Brett Atkinson, Anthony Ham, Paul Harding, Kate Morgan, Charles Rawlings-Way, Andy Symington, Kate Armstrong, Carolyn Bain, Cristian Bonetto, Peter Dragicevich, Trent Holden, Virginia Maxwell, Ta-mara Sheward, Tom Spurling, Benedict Walker, Steve Waters and Donna Wheeler. We would also like to thank the following people for their contributions to this guide: Dr Michael Cath-cart, Cathy Craigie, Dr Tim
Flannery and Dr Janelle White. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Tasmin WabyProduct Editors Vicky Smith, Catherine NaghtenSenior Cartographer Julie SheridanBook Designer Nicholas ColicchiaAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Andrew Bain, Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Bridget Blair, Laura Crawford, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Victoria Harrison, Gabrielle Innes, Ali
Lemer, Jodie Martire, Rosie Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Susan Paterson, Chris Pitts, Saralinda Turner, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to William Allen, Jennifer Carey, Hannah Cartmel, Heather Champion, Daniel Corbett, Megan Eaves, Shona Gray, Sandie Kestell, Anne Mason, Kate Mathews, MaSovaida Morgan, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Jessica Ryan, Ross Taylor, Amanda Williamson, Clifton Wilkinson
1081
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
AAboriginal art 18, 861, 1012,
1032-3, 18, 20 Aboriginal Australians 1016-
17, 1026, 1031-4, see also Aboriginal history, Aboriginal culture
Aboriginal culture 27, 860-1, 1031-4, see also Aboriginal art
Aboriginal cultural centres, see also art galleries
Araluen Cultural Precinct 851
Djilpin Arts 832Dreamtime Cultural
Centre 356Ghunmarn Culture Centre
24, 843Godinymayin Yijard Rivers
Arts & Culture Centre 832
Injalak Arts & Crafts Centre 830
Jellurgal Cultural Centre 317
Katoomba 147Koorie Heritage Trust 464Krowathunkoolong
Keeping Place 592Mowanjum Art & Culture
Centre 1006-7Nagula Jarndu Women’s
Resource Centre 993Narana Aboriginal Cultural
Centre 543Tjapukai Aboriginal
Cultural Park 393Top Didj Cultural Experi-
ence & Art Gallery 832Townsville 378Walyalup Aboriginal
Cultural Centre 906Wardan Aboriginal
Centre 933
Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre 827
Aboriginal cultural festivals 861, 860-1
Barunga Festival 836, 861Garma Festival 831Kullarri Naidoc Week 997Laura Aboriginal Dance
Festival 435Mahbilil Festival 825Merrepen Arts Festival
820Stone Country Festival
830Tjungu Festival 873Walking With Spirits 843
Aboriginal cultural tours 860
Adelaide 722Arnhem Land 828-9Ballina 183Beagle Bay 1001Broome 997Bunbury 927Bungle Bungle Range
1014Byron Bay 187Cape Leveque 1002Cooktown 430Darwin 802Denmark 947Derby 1004Fremantle 907Geikie (Darngku) Gorge
1006Gibb River Road 1006Great Northern Highway
1009Gunbalanya (Oenpelli)
830Ingham 385Kakadu National Park 823Karratha 986Katharine 832Lombadina 1002Mary River 815
Melbourne 480Monkey Mia 969Mungo National Park 216Nitmiluk (Katharine
Gorge) National Park 836
Perth 886Tiwi Islands 812Tully 386-7Uluru-Kata Tjuta National
Park 872Yulara 872
Aboriginal history 632-3, 933, 1018-19, 1021, 1026, 1030
Abrolhos the 963abseiling, see rock climbing
& abseilingaccessible travel 1063accommodation 24, 1052-4,
see also individual locations
ACT 62, 252-66, 253activities 53-7, 59, see also
individual activities, locations
Adelaide 715-38, 720-1, 724-5, 730-1, 35
accommodation 714, 725-8activities 720-2children, travel with 723climate 714drinking & nightlife 732-3emergencies 735entertainment 734festivals & events 723-5food 714, 728-32internet access 736itineraries 718media 736medical services 736money 736postal services 736shopping 735sights 715-19tourist information 736
tours 722-3travel to/from 736travel within 737-8
Adelaide Hills 738-43, 739Adelaide Oval 24Adnyamathanha people 789adventure tours 27
Blue Mountains 143Coral Bay 973-6Denham 968Derby 1004Gibb River Road 1006Grampians 580Great Sand National Park:
Cooloola Section 335Jindabyne 241 Jurien Bay 925Kalbarri 964-5Kangaroo Island 752-3Kangaroo Valley 223Karijini National Park 991Phillip Island 536Port Lincoln 782Snowy River National
Park 594 Tasmania 634Whitsundays 362Wollongong 220
AFL 1047, 31Agnes Water 351-5air travel, see also scenic
flightsairlines 1067, 1068 airports 1067to/from Austalia 1067within Australia 1068
Aireys Inlet 551-2Airlie Beach 365-70, 366Albany 24, 949-53, 950Albury 244-6alchohol restrictions 434Alice Springs 45, 850-62,
852-3, 856accommodation 855-7activities 853-4
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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EX A-B
Alice Springs continueddrinking & nightlife 858entertainment 858festivals & events 854-5food 857-8medical services 859safety 859shopping 858-9sights 850-2tourist information 859tours 854travel to/from 859travel within 862
American River 755amusement parks
Adventure World 886Big Banana 177Dreamworld 315Luna Park (Melbourne)
477 Luna Park (Sydney) 96Movie World 315Sea World 315Wet’n’Wild (Gold Coast)
315Wet’n’Wild (Sydney) 100WhiteWater World 315
Angaston 763-4Anglesea 550-1Angourie 181-3animals 15, 404, 1036-8,
see also individual species
Antechinus 864Anzac Day 1026apartments 1053Apollo Bay 554-6aquariums
Aquarium of Western Australia 879, 882
Aquascene 797Cairns Aquarium 392Manly Sea Life
Sanctuary 97-8Marineland Crocodile
Park 411Merimbula Aquarium 235National Zoo &
Aquariums 256Ocean Park 967Reef HQ Aquarium 377Reef World 337Sea Life (Melbourne)
465Sea Life Sunshine Coast
331
Seahorse World 688Solitary Islands
Aquarium 177Sydney Sea Life
Aquarium 82area codes 1062Armidale 198-9Arnhem Highway 813-16Arnhem Land 20,
828-32, 20art galleries 27, see also
Aboriginal cultural centres
Aboriginal Cultural Centre & Keeping Place 198
Alcaston Gallery 468Araluen Arts Centre 851Art Gallery of Ballarat
566Art Gallery of NSW 75Art Gallery of South
Australia 715Art Gallery of Western
Australia 879Australian Centre for
Contemporary Art 466Australian Galleries 469Backwoods Gallery 468Bendigo Art Gallery 571Boom Gallery 543Brett Whiteley Studio 85Broken Hill Regional Art
Gallery 212Buku Larrnggay Mulka
Art Centre & Museum 831
Bunbury Regional Art Galleries 926-7
Cairns 393Caloundra Regional
Gallery 329Calyx 70Castlemaine Art Gallery
& Historical Museum 576-7
Celia Rosser Gallery 585Centre for Contemporary
Photography 468Convent Gallery 528Courthouse Gallery 988Devonport Regional
Gallery 693Fremantle Arts Centre
906Gallery of Modern Art
(GOMA) 271, 274Geelong Art Gallery 539Geraldton Regional Art
Gallery 959
Gertrude Contemporary Art Space 468
Godinymayin Yijard Rivers Arts & Culture Centre 832
Heide Museum of Modern Art 473
Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia 456-7
Justin Art House Museum 476
Kimberleys, the 1012Linden New Art 477MAMA 245Mason Gallery 797Mbantua Fine Art Gallery
809, 861MONA 12, 639-40, 12Mornington Peninsula
Regional Gallery 532Mulgara Gallery 872Murray Bridge Regional
Gallery 767Museum & Art Gallery of
the Northern Territory 801
Museum of Contemporary Art 75
National Gallery of Australia 254
National Portrait Gallery 254
Newcastle Art Gallery 158
Ngukurr Arts Centre 844NGV International 466Norval Gallery 1003Nyinkka Nyunyu 847Perth Institute of
Contemporary Arts (PICA) 882
Powerhouse Geelong City Precinct 539-42
Pro Hart Gallery 212Qdos Art Gallery 552Queen Victoria Art
Gallery 680 Queenscliff Gallery 545Queensland Art Gallery
274Riddoch Art Gallery 776Rockhampton Art Gallery
356-7TarraWarra Museum of
Art 524Tasmanian Museum &
Art Gallery 637Top Didj Cultural Experi-
ence & Art Gallery 832Wagga Wagga Art Gallery
246
Waralungku Arts Centre 845
Waringarri Aboriginal Arts Centre 1011
White Rabbit 97Wintjiri Arts & Museum
872Atherton 417Atherton Tablelands 398,
414-18ATMs 1059Auburn 764-5Augusta 939-41Australia Day 28, 67, 1020Australia Zoo 329Australian Capital Territory
(ACT) 62, 252-66, 253Australian Museum 85Australian National
Maritime Museum 77Australian Open 28, 480,
1048Australian Parliament
House 254-6Australian Rules football
1047Australian War Memorial
254automobile clubs 1071Avoca 150Avon Valley 921-2Ayers Rock, see UluruAyton 429
BBabinda Boulders 392Ballarat 566-71, 568Ballina 183-4Bamaga 437B&Bs 1052bandicoots 823Bangalow 191-2bank accounts 1059Barcaldine 450Barkly Tableland 843Barmera 769-70Barossa Valley 16, 759-64,
761, 16Batavia Coast 959-66Batchelor 817-18Batemans Bay 230-1bathrooms 1062Bathurst 202-4Bathurst Island 813Bay of Fires 676-7beaches 25, 514-15
Avalon 99Basin, the 912Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
1083IN
DEX B
Batemans Bay 230Bay of Fires 676Bells Beach 549, 541Bill’s Bay 973Boat Harbour
Beach 701Bondi Beach 87, 10,
79, 92-3Bronte Beach 87, 94Broome 1003Bundegi Beach 981Bunker Bay 931-2Burleigh Heads 316-18Byron Bay 185Cable Beach 992, 999Caloundra 328Camp Cove 94, 93Cape Tribulation 425Clovelly Beach 90Coffs Harbour 177Coogee Beach 90Coolangatta 319Cooloola Coast 335Coolum 334Cottesloe Beach 882Cow Bay Beach 424Darwin 802Dunk Island 391Ellis Beach 414Emu Beach 951Frankland Islands 411Friendly Beaches 672Garie Beach 218Geelong 539Gulf St Vincent 746-7Hamilton Island 373Magnetic Island 382Mahon Pool 92, 91Main Beach 313-15Mandalay Beach 945Manly Beach 97McLean Beach 248Middleton Beach 951Mildura 619Mooloolaba 331-4Ned’s Beach
(Lord Howe Island) 249
Newcastle 159Nielsen Park 95Ninety Mile Beach
591Noosa 323, 59North Beach (Lord
Howe Island) 249North Beach
(Wollongong) 218Ocean Beach 707
Palm Beach (Gold Coast) 318-19
Palm Beach (Sydney) 99Palm Cove 413Peregian 334Port Campbell National
Park 558Rainbow Beach 342safety 1051, 1057-8Scarborough Beach
883Seal Rocks 166Seven Mile Beach
(Kiama) 222Seven Mile Beach
(Lennox Head) 184Shelly Beach 97Snelling Beach 757St Kilda Foreshore 477Store Beach 99Surfers Paradise 311Sydney 91-4Tamarama Beach
104, 93Torquay 548Trinity Beach 412-13Wagga Beach 246Wattamolla Beach 217Whale Beach 99Whitsundays 371-4Wilsons Promontory
National Park 586Wollongong City Beach
218Beaconsfield 688Beagle Bay 1001Beauty Point 688Bedourie 452Beechworth 604-7beer 732, 1046, see also
breweriesBellarine Peninsula 545-7Bellingen 173-6Bells Beach 549, 541Bells Line of Road 147Ben Boyd National Park
237-8Ben Lomond National
Park 691-2Bendigo 571-5, 573Bennelong 1021Bermagui 234Berri 771Berrima 239Berry 224-5Berry Springs 816-17Beswick 843Bicheno 673-5bicycle travel, see cycling
Big Banana 177Big Pineapple 331Big Prawn 183Bigsound Festival 279bike riding, see cyclingBinalong Bay 676birds 1040
cassowaries 390red-tailed tropicbirds
932Birdsville 452Birdsville Track 51, 795birdwatching 166-7, 1041
Arnhem Highway 813Bicheno 674Burnie 701Cairns 393, 396Caranbirini
Conservation Reserve 846
Darwin 803Kingscote 756Lord Howe
Island 249-50Low Head (Tamar
Valley) 689Mareeba 416 Rockingham 918
Birdwood 742Black Point 779Black Saturday 527, 1038Blackall Range 337Blackheath 149-50Blinman 790Bloomfield Track 429Blowhole 663Blue Lake 775-6Blue Mountains
142-50, 144Blue Mountains National
Park 150Boat Harbour Beach 701boat tours & cruises 403
Adelaide River 813-14Airlie Beach 367 Albany 951Brisbane 278Cape Range National
Park 985Coral Bay 973-6Darwin 802D’Entrecasteaux National
Park 943Echuca 625, 628Esperance 957Fremantle 907Great Barrier Reef 397Goolwa 749-50
Hinchinbrook Island 386Houtman Abrolhos
Islands 963Jervis Bay 227Kakadu 823Kangaroo Island 756Katherine Gorge 836Lakes Entrance 592Mallacoota 597Mary River 815Melbourne 477-9Metung 591Mildura 620, 621Mooloolaba 332Narooma 232Nelson 565Ningaloo Coast 973Pemberton 943Perth 886Pine Creek 823Port Douglas 419-21Port Lincoln 782Rottnest Island 915Strahan 707Sydney 105-6Victor Harbour 748Walpole 945 Whitsundays 370, 371
boat travel, see also boat tours & cruises
to/from Australia 1067within Australia 1069
Bondi 87, 90, 10, 92-3, 103
Bondi to Coogee Clifftop Walk 104
Booderee National Park 228
Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park 443
books 1016Aboriginal writers 1034history 1019, 1020, 1022,
1024Boreen Point 336Borroloola 845-6Boulia 451-2Bourke 211Bowen 375Bowral 238-9Bradman, Donald 238, 719,
1024, 1027Brae 554Brampton Island 374breweries 24
Black Hops Brewing 318Boag’s Brewery 680Brouhaha Brewery 337
1084
IND
EX B-C
breweries continuedBurleigh Brewing
Company 318Cascade Brewery 639Catchment Brewing
Co 294Coopers Brewery 719Goodieson Brewery 744Granite Belt
Brewery 308Green Beacon
Brewing Co 296Hunter Beer Co 152Kangaroo Island
Brewery 755Margaret River 932,
936, 939Newstead Brewing
Co 296Pagan Cider 658Prancing Pony 742Robe Town Brewery 773Steam Exchange
Brewery 749Two Metre Tall 653-4XXXX 278
Bribie Island 327-8bridge climbing
Brisbane 277Sydney 106
Bridgetown 942Bright 613-14Brisbane 270-303, 272-3,
280-1, 286, 290, 2, 35accommodation
267, 281-4activities 277-8art galleries 276courses 278drinking & nightlife
293-7entertainment 297-9festivals & events 278-81food 267, 284-93LGBTIQ travellers 294shopping 299-301sights 270-7tourist information 301tours 278travel to/from 301-2travel within 302-3
Brisbane Powerhouse 275, 298
Broadbeach 315-16Broken Hill 18, 211-15,
213, 18
Broken River 376Broome 17, 992-1001,996,
999, 17accommodation 998activities 993drinking &
entertainment 1000festivals & events 997food 998-1000shopping 1000sights 992-3tourist information 1000tours 993-7travel to/from 1000-1travel within 1001-2
Bruny Island 655-7Buchan 593-4Buchan Caves 593-4budget 23buffaloes 823Bunbury 926-9Bundaberg 344-6Bungle Bungle Range
1013-14bungy jumping 396Burke & Wills Camp 119
442Burke, Robert O’Hara 1022Burketown 442-3Burleigh Heads 317, 316-18Burnie 700-2bus tours 1070bus travel 1069-70, 1070bush tucker 1046bushfires 527, 1038, 1051bushwalking 53-5, see also
walkingAlice Springs 853, 854Bay of Fires Lodge
Walk 676best trails 55Bibbulmun Track 951Blue Mountains 148Cape to Cape Track 932Cape Tribulation 427Cradle Mountain 710Cradle Valley 709-10Cynthia Bay 710Denmark 946environmental issues 54Flinders Island 678Flinders Ranges National
Park 789Fraser Island 348Freycinet Experience
Walk 672Great Ocean Walk 556Great South West Walk
565
Jatbula Trail 836-7Kalbarri National Park
965-6Kangaroo Island
Wilderness Trail 759Karijini National Park
991Kata Tjuta 877Katherine Gorge 836-7Lamington National Park
321-3Larapinta Trail 855Lurujarri Dreaming
Trail 997Maria Island Walk 670Moreton Island 306Mt Jerusalem 699Mt Kosciuszko 242Mt Sorrow Ridge Walk
427 Murray River 772Nourlangie 826-7Overland Track 710Pemberton 943Porongurup National
Park 953safety 54-5South Coast Track
(Tasmania) 661South Coast Walk
(Victoria) 549Southwest National
Park 713Stirling Range National
Park 955Tarkine Wilderness 705Tasmanian Trail 635Ubirr 824-5Uluru 876-7Wilsons Promontory
National Park 589Wineglass Bay Walk 673
business hours 23, 1060Busselton 929-30Butterfly Bay 371Byfield 359Byron Bay 14, 185-91,
186-7, 14
CCairns 392-411, 394-5,
400-1, 402accommodation 405-6activities 395-6drinking & nightlife
408-9entertainment 409festivals & events 405food 406-8
galleries 393shopping 409sights 392-3tourist information 409tours 397-9travel to/from 409-10travel within 410-11
Cairns region 412Caloundra 328-31Camel Cup 855camel riding
Alice Springs 853Broome 993-4, 17 Uluru 872
Camp Cove 94, 93Campbell Town 668camping 24, 43, 1052-3camps 1054Canberra 62, 254-65,
255, 258accommodation 252,
260-1activities 257children, travel with 264climate 252drinking & nightlife
263-4entertainment 264festivals & events 259food 252, 261-3medical services 264shopping 264sights 254-7tourist information 264tours 257travel to/from 265travel within 265
canoeing, see kayaking & canoeing
canopy activitiesDaintree, the 427Finch Hatton Gorge 376Hollybank Treetops
Adventure 689Otways 557Tamborine Moutain 321Tarkine Wilderness 705Valley of the Giants
944-5Cape Bridgewater 564Cape Leveque 1002-3Cape Naturaliste 931-2Cape Nelson Lighthouse
566Cape Otway 556-7, 541Cape Range National Park
984-5Cape Tribulation 398,
425-9, 426Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1085IN
DEX C
-D Cape York Peninsula 431-9,
432-3Capricorn Caves 357Capricorn Coast 351-62,
352-3Capricorn hinterland 361-2car travel 1070-7, 1071,
1072, 1073automobile clubs 1071buying a car 1074-7environmental issues
1071-2hire 1073-4insurance 1074outback, the 50safety 1072-3
cassowaries 390carbon offset 1074Cardwell 386Carnarvon 970-1Carnarvon Gorge 361-2Carpentaria 844-5Castlemaine 576-8cathedrals, see churches &
cathedralsCatseye Beach 371caves
Buchan Caves 593-4Capricorn Caves 357Cave Gardens 776Cutta Cutta Caves
Nature Park 837Jenolan Caves 152Hastings Caves &
Thermal Springs 660Mimbi Caves 1009Naracoorte Caves
National Park 775Ngilgi Cave 933, 4Remarkable Cave 665Yarrangobilly
Caves 242Ceduna 784-5cell phones 22, 1062Central Tilba 233Cervantes 923-4Chalkies Beach 371Charleville 450-1Charters Towers 384, 444Childers 344children, travel with 1054-5
Adelaide 723Canberra 264Fremantle 906Hobart 641Perth 886Sydney 104
Chiltern 608-9
Chinatowns 1024Adelaide 728Brisbane 275 Broome 997, 998 Melbourne 460-1, 481 Sydney 77, 107, 114, 115
churches & cathedralsCathedral of St Frances
Xavier Church 959Catholic Church of St
Peter & St Paul 792Sacred Heart Cathedral
572St John’s Cathedral 271St Patrick’s Cathedral
465St Paul’s Cathedral 457
Churchill Island 536Clare 766-7Clare Valley 764-7, 26climate 22, 28-31, 44-5,
1035, see also individual locations
climbing, see rock climbing & abseiling
Cloncurry 444clownfish 400 Cobourg Peninsula 830-1Cockatoo Island 90Cockle Creek 661Coen 435coffee 1045-6Coffin Bay 783Coffs Harbour 177-80, 178Coles Bay 672-3conservation groups 1039Coober Pedy 792-4, 793Cooinda 827-8Cook, Captain James 328,
351, 429, 430, 1019cooking courses
Angaston 763 Bright 613 Brisbane 278 Margaret River 935, 936 Melbourne 473, 476, 481 Sydney 84, 107 Tasmania 654, 691
Cooktown 429-31Coolangatta 319-20Cooloola Coast 335-7Coolum 334-5Cooma 240-1Coonabarabran 200-1Coonawarra Wine Region
777-8Copley 790-1coral 982
Coral Bay 973-6coral spawning 397Corinna 705costs 23courses, see also cooking
coursesdiving 43, 398
Cow Bay 424-5Cowaramup 935-7Cowes 537-8Cowra 206-7Cradle Mountain-Lake St
Clair National Park 17, 709-12, 17
Craig’s Hut 599Crater Lakes National
Park 418credit cards 1059Crescent Head 171cricket 238, 719, 1027,
1047-8crocodiles 318, 367, 411,
414, 425, 441, 813, 814, 823, 1050
Crowdy Head 167Croydon 440cruises, see boat tours &
cruisesCumberland Islands 374-5currency 1059Currumbin 318-19customs regulations 1055cycling 55, 1068-9
Byron Bay 186Merimbula 235outback, the 46Sydney 100, 106Yamba 182
cyclones 368, 1061Cygnet 657-8
DD’Aguilar National Park
271, 58Daintree, the 15, 424-9,
15, 58Daly River 819-20Daly Waters 846-7Dampier 987-8Dampier Peninsula 1001-3Dandenongs 522-3dangers, see safetyDarwin 45-6, 797-812,
800, 804-5accommodation 803-7activities 802climate 796drinking & nightlife 809
entertainment 809festivals & events 803food 807-9history 801 internet access 810medical services 810safety 810shopping 809-12sights 797-802tourist information 811tours 802-3travel to/from 811travel within 812
Dawes, William 1019Daydream Island 373Daylesford 528-30debit cards 1059Deepwater National Park
355Deloraine 695-8dengue fever 1051Denham 967-9Deniliquin 248-9Denmark 946-9Derby (Tasmania) 677-8Derby (WA) 1003-5Devil’s Kitchen 663Devil’s Marbles 849Devonian Reef National
Parks 1005-6Devonport 692-4diarrhoea 1058didgeridoos 910, 1033, 861dingoes 350, 823, 864Dinner Plain 617-19Dinosaur Trail 448disabilities, travellers with
1063discount cards 1055distilleries
Bundaberg Rum Distillery 345
Hellyers Road Distillery 700-1
Kangaroo Island Spirits 755-6
Nant Distillery 666-7Redlands Distillery 666Sullivans Cove Whisky
652Twenty Third Street
Distillery 771-2diving & snorkelling 56,
400, 883Adelaide 722Broome 993Broughton Island 166Byron Bay 186-7
1086
IND
EX D-F
diving & snorkelling continued
Cairns 411Cape Conran Coastal
Park 596Coffs Harbour 179courses 43, 398Esperance 957Exmouth 978-9Flinders Island 678-9Frankland Islands 411Geographe Bay 931Geraldton 961Great Barrier Reef 11,
40-3, 397, 399-404, 427, 11, 41, 403
Heron Island 356Houtman Abrolhos
Islands 963Jervis Bay 226-7Jurien Bay 925King Island 704Lady Elliot Island 355Magnetic Island 383Maria Island National
Park 670Merimbula 235Mooloolaba 331Narooma 232Ningaloo Coast 973-4,
975-6Ningaloo Marine
Park 983-4North Stradbroke
Island 304Perth 883Port Douglas 419, 420Portsea 531Queenscliff 545-6Rainbow Beach 342Rockingham 918Rottnest Island 913Sorrento 531Sydney 100Whitsundays 370-1wrecks 383
dolphins 57, 545dolphin-watching 57
Adelaide 722, 733Bellarine Peninsula 545Bunbury 926Eden 236Esperence 957Hervey Bay 338Jervis Bay 227
Kangaroo Island 750, 753, 756
Mandurah 919Merimbula 235Monkey Mia 969Moreton Island 306 Mornington Peninsula
531 Rockingham 918
Dorrigo 176-7Dorrigo National Park 176Dover 660Dreaming 1034driving, see car travel driving licences 1071driving tours
Alice Springs 854Bathurst to Gulgong
203, 203Caloundra 329Coober Pedy 792-3Daintree, the 427Esperance 957Great Northern Highway
1009Kimberley, the 1006Mungo Track 216Noosa 323-4
Dubbo 207-8Dudley Peninsula 754-5Dunalley 662Duncan Road 1011Dunk Island 391Dunkeld 582Dunsborough 930-1Duranbah 317DVDs 1054Dwellingup 920
EEaglehawk Neck 662-4Echuca 624-8, 626economy 1017Eden 236-7Einasleigh 440electricity 1056Elizabeth Quay 24Ellery Creek Big Hole 864Ellis Beach 414emergencies 23Emily Gap 863encephalitis 1051Endeavour 1019environment 1031-2,
1035-42environmental issues
1038-40bushwalking 54
car travel 1071carbon offset 1074 Great Barrier Reef 40,
1036Esperance 956-8Eumundi 336Eureka Stockade 570,
1023-4Eurimbula National
Park 355Eurobodalla Coast 229-33Evandale 691events, see festivals &
eventsEwaninga 866exchange rates 23Exmouth 976-80, 977Eyre Peninsula 781-5
FFalls Creek 616-17farmstays 1053Ferris wheels 275festivals & events 28-31,
1056, see also individ-ual locations, Aborig-inal cultural festivals, film festivals, food & wine festivals, LGBTIQ festivals, literary fes-tivals, music festivals, sporting events
Adelaide Cabaret Festival 723
Adelaide Festival 723Adelaide Fringe 723Alice Desert Festival 855Alice Springs Beanie
Festival 854Biennale of Sydney 107Bleach Festival 311Blessing of the Fleet 907Bowral Tulip Time
Festival 239Brisbane Comedy
Festival 279Brisbane Festival 279Brisbane Street Art
Festival 278-9Canberra Balloon
Spectacular 259Chinese New Year
(Melbourne) 481Chinese New Year
(Sydney) 107Coolangatta Gold 319Dark MOFO 643Darwin Aboriginal Art
Fair 803Darwin Festival 803
Darwin Fringe Festival 803Deniliquin Ute
Muster 248‘Ekka’ Royal Queensland
Show 279Enlighten 259Fremantle Festival 907Kings Park Festival 887Melbourne International
Comedy Festival 481MONA FOMA 643National Multicultural
Festival 259New Year’s Eve 107Oktoberfest 279Ord Valley Muster 1012Perth International Arts
Festival 886-7Port Douglas Carnivale
421Red Earth Arts Festival
986Rottofest 916Shinju Matsuri Festival of
the Pearl 997South Australian Wooden
Boat Festival 750Sydney Festival 107Townsville 500 379Tunarama Festival 783Vesak Festival of Light
572-3Whale Festival 236White Night Ballarat 567Yulefest 144
film 1034, 1016film festivals
Brisbane Asia Pacific Film Festival 281
CinéfestOZ 929Queer Film Festival 294Sydney Film Festival 107Tropfest 107
film locationsAustralia 375Crocodile Dundee 447Saving Mr Banks 343
Finch Hatton Gorge 376Finke Gorge National
Park 866Finke Track 52Fish Creek 584-6fishing 56-7
Borroloola 845Cairns 405Cape York Peninsula
437, 438Cobourg Peninsula 831Daly River 820Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
1087IN
DEX F-G
Denamrk 946Exmouth 977Flinders Island 679Jurien Bay 925Kangaroo Island 752Karumba 441, 441-2King Island 704Lake Tinaroo 418Merimbula 235St Helens 675Warrnambool 560Weipa 436
Fitzgerald River National Park 952, 956
Fitzroy Crossing 1009-10Fitzroy Falls 223Fitzroy Island 411Flannery, Tim 1035Fleurieu Peninsula 743-50,
743Flinders Chase National
Park 758-9Flinders Island 678-9Flinders Ranges 785-91, 786Flinders Ranges National
Park 788-90, 26flora 925, 1038floral emblems 1037food 59, 1043-6, see also
individual locations cooking courses, food & wine festivals, food & wine tours
budgeting 1056bush tucker 1046 children, eating with
1055magazines 1046markets 289trucks 289venues 1043-6
food & wine festivalsA Taste of Broome 997Barossa Gourmet
Weekend 760Barossa Vintage
Festival 760Canberra District Wine
Week 266Clare Valley Gourmet
Weekend 764Crush 738Esk BeerFest 683Feast of the Senses 392F.O.O.D Week 204Good Food Month 107Hobart BeerFest 643Margaret River Gourmet
Escape 933
Melbourne Food & Wine Festival 481
Mudgee Wine Festival 209
Noosa Food & Wine 324Orange Wine Festival
204Oysterfest 784Riverland Wine & Food
Festival 771Sawtell Chilli Festival 179Sea & Vines Festival 745Taste of Tasmania 642Tastes of Rutherglen 609Tasting Australia 723UnWINEd 247Winery Walkabout
Weekend 609Winter Reds 738
food & wine toursAdelaide 715Barossa Valley 760Clare Valley 764Denmark 947Hunter Valley 154Margaret River wine
region 932McLaren Vale 744-5Mudgee 209Orange 204Perth 886Rutherglen 609Tamar Valley 686
footballAustralian Rules 1047, 31soccer 1048women’s 1047
Forrest 555Forster 167Fowlers Bay 785Frankland Islands 411Franklin-Gordon Wild
Rivers National Park 708-9
Fraser Coast 337-51Fraser Island 21, 338, 346-
51, 347, 21Fremantle 903-11, 904,
913accommodation 907-8beaches 906-7children, travel with 906drinking & nightlife
909-10entertainment 910festivals & events 907food 908-9internet access 911itineraries 883
parks 906-7shopping 910-11sights 903, 905-6tourist information 911tours 907travel to/from 911travel within 911
Freycinet National Park 672-3
fuel 1072fur seals 564
GGabba, the 298Gabo Island 596galleries, see art galleriesgardens, see parks &
gardensGariwerd 578-82, 579Gascoyne Coast 970-2gay travellers 1056
Brisbane 294Melbourne 510Perth 897Sydney 132
Geelong 538-45, 542Geeveston 659-60gem fields 361Geographe Bay 926-32geology 1036George Town (Tasmania)
688-9Georgetown (Queensland)
440Geraldton 959-62, 960Ghan, the 21, 24, 21ghost tours
Adelaide 722-3Beechworth 605-6Brisbane 278Geelong 543-4Hobart 636Melbourne 543Port Arthur 665Sydney 106Walhalla 590
Ghunmarn Culture Centre 24, 843
giardiasis 1051Gibb River Road 1006-8Gippsland 584-98, 584-5Gippsland Lakes 591-3Gladstone 355Glass House Mountains 328Glen Helen Gorge 864Gold Coast 309-21, 310
surfing spots 317
theme parks 315travel to/from 309travel within 309-10
Gold Coast hinterland 320-3
goldfields 566-82golfing
Anglesea 550Oatlands 667Port Douglas 419 Yorkeys Knob 411 Weipa 436
GOMA 271, 274Goolwa 749-50gorges
Barramundi Gorge (Maguk) 828
Carnarvon Gorge 361Cataract Gorge 680Charles Knife Canyon
985Dales Gorge 990Finch Hatton Gorge 376Geikie Gorge 1005Hamersley Gorge 990Kalbarri 966Karijini National Park
990-1Katherine Gorge 836-8MacDonnell Ranges
862-3, 864-5Mandu Mandu Gorge
985 Mossman Gorge 424 Palm Valley 866Purnululu National Park
1014Umbrawarra Gorge 820 Windjana Gorge 1005-6Yardie Creek Gorge985
Gosford 150Grafton 180-1Grampians, the 578-82,
579Granite Belt 308-9Great Australian Bight 785Great Barrier Reef 11, 37-
43, 377, 399-404, 1036, 39, 11, 41, 399-404
access towns 38camping 43islands 38-40responsible tourism 40tours 397travel seasons 37websites 38
Great Keppel Island 360-1Great Northern Highway
1008-11
1088
IND
EX G-K
Great Ocean Road 13, 538-66, 538, 540-1
Great Stupa of Universal Compassion 572
Green Island 411Greenmount 317Griffith 247-8Gulf Savannah 439-43Gulliver’s Travels 785Gumeracha 741-2Gunbalanya 830Gundagai 244Gunn, Jeannie 842Gympie 344
HHahndorf 738-40Halls Creek 1010-11Halls Gap 578-82Hamilton Island 373-4Hanging Rock 530Harrington 167Hastings Caves 660Hat Head National Park
171-2Hawker 788Hawkesbury River 151Hayman Island 374Head of Bight 785Healesville 524-6health 1056-8, see also
safetyheat exhaustion 1057heatstroke 1057Henbury Meteorite Craters
867Henley-on-Todd Regatta 855hepatitis C 1051Hepburn Springs 528-30Hermannsburg 865-6Heron Island 356Hervey Bay 337-42,
338-9, 57High Country 599-619,
602-3hiking, see bushwalkingHinchinbrook Island 386historic sites
Abbotsford Covent 468Aboriginal Tent Embassy
257Arltunga Historical
Reserve 862Battery Hill (Port Fairy)
562
Battery Point (Hobart) 637-9
Beechworth Asylum 605Brickendon 690Busselton Jetty 929Cascades Female
Factory Historic Site 639
Central Deborah Goldmine 572
Coal Mines Historic Site 663
Cooks’ Cottage 466-8Corroboree Rock
Conservation Reserve 863
Darlington 670Flagstaff Hill Maritime
Village 560Fort Queenscliff 545Heritage Blinman Mine
790Hermannsburg Mission
865Myilly Point Heritage
Precinct 797Ngilgi Cave 933Old Beechworth Gaol
605Old Melbourne Gaol 461Old Mildura Homestead
619Old Psyche Bend Pump
Station 619Penitentiary Chapel
Historic Site 636Port Arthur Historic Site
664-5Quod 912Ross Female Factory 667Salamanca Place 636Sovereign Hill 566Victoria Hills Historic
Mining Site 572Woolmers Estate 690WWII Flying Boat Wrecks
993Wybalenna Historic
Site 678history 1018-30
Aboriginal Australians 632-3, 933, 1018-19, 1021, 1026, 1030
convict period 1020-3Eureka Stockade 570,
1023-4federation 1025gold rush 1023-4WWI 1025-6WWII 1027-8
hitching 1077
Hobart 636-52, 638, 642-3
accommodation 629, 643-6
activities 640children, travel with 641climate 629drinking & nightlife
648-50emergencies 651entertainment 650festivals & events 641-3food 629, 646-8internet access 651itineraries 637medical services 651money 651postal services 651shopping 650-1sights 636-40tourist information 651tours 640-1travel to/from 651-2travel within 652
holiday parks 1052-3holidays 1060-1Hook Island 372-3horizontal waterfalls 1004Horn Island 438-9horse riding
Coffs Harbour 178Daintree, the 428Hervey Bay 339Kiewa Valley 615Kununurra 1011Mansfield 599Snowy Mountains 240
horses, wild 823Horseshoe Bay 748Horsham 582hostels 1053-4hot-air ballooning
Brisbane 277-8Byron Bay 186Cairns 397, 398 Canberra 257, 259Hunter Valley 152Surfers Paradise 311 Yarra Valley 523-4
hotels 1054houseboats 769Houtman Abrolhos Islands
963humpback whales 29, 57,
340, 984, 1041, 57Hunter Valley 151-7, 153Huonville 658-9Hutt Lagoon 962
Hyde Park 77Hyden 920-1hypothermia 1051
IIkara 788, 789Imintji 1006-7Ingham 385-6Innisfail 391-2insurance
car 1074health 1056, 1058 travel 1058
internet access 1058internet resources,
see websitesislands 25itineraries 32-6, 32, 33,
34, 36
JJabiru 825-6James Price Point 1003Jan Juc 549jellyfish 1050Jenolan Caves 152Jervis Bay 226-7Jindabyne 241Judbarra 841Junee 246Jurien Bay 924-6
KKakadu National Park 15,
45-6, 821-8, 822, 15Kalbarri 962-5, 964Kalbarri National Park 24,
965-6Kalumburu 1008Kanangra-Boyd National
Park 150Kangaroo Island 750-9, 751Kangaroo Valley 222-3kangaroos 1036, 15Karijini National Park
989-92, 990Karratha 986-7Karumba 441-2Kata Tjuta 877, 839, 877,
838Katherine 45-6, 832-6, 833Katherine Gorge 836-40Katoomba 146-9kayaking & canoeing
Ballina 183Batemans Bay 230Berri 771
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1089IN
DEX K
-M
Blackwood River 941Byron Bay 186Caloundra 329Daintree, the 427Eden 236Exmouth 979Freycinet
Peninsula 672Goolwa 749Gulf St Vincent 747Hobart 640Jervis Bay 226Kangaroo Valley 223Magnetic Island 383Main Beach 314Melbourne 477-9Merimbula 235Mission Beach 388Morning
Peninsula 531Murray River 620,
621, 772Nelson 565Ningaloo Marine
Park 984North Stradbroke
Island 304Paringa 772Pemberton 943Port Stephens 165Tasman Peninsula 66Sydney 100-2 Whitsundays 371Yamba 182
Kennett River 554Keswick Island 374Kiama 221-2Kiewa Valley 614-15Kimberley School of the
Air 1004Kimberley, the 17, 46,
992-1014, 994-5King Island 703-4King Valley 601-4Kings Canyon 870-1,
871, 7Kingscote 755-6Kings Cross 84-5, 88-9Kirra 317koalas 1036-7, 541Koonwarra 584-6Kosciuszko National Park
241-4Kununurra 1008, 1011-13Kuranda 414-16Ku-ring-gai Chase National
Park 102Kwongan wildflowers 925Kyneton 575-6
LLady Elliot Island 355-6Lake Mountain 526-7lakes
Blue Lake (Kaboora) 303Fern Pool 990Lake Burley Griffin 257Lake Cathie 167Lake Cooroibah 335-6Lake Cootharaba 336-7Lake Macquarie 150Lake Mungo 216Lake Pedder 712-13Lake Tinaroo 418Lake Wendouree 567
Lakes Entrance 592-3Lake Tinaroo 418Lamington National Park
321Lancelin 923Langford Island 371languages 1018Larapinta Trail 855Larrimah 848Lasseter Highway 52,
868-70Launceston 679-86, 681,
682accommodation 683-4activities 680drinking & nightlife 685entertainment 685festivals & events 683food 684-5medical services 685shopping 685sights 680tourist information 686tours 680-3travel to/from 686travel within 686
Laura 435lava tubes 439legal matters 1058Legana 687-8Leigh Creek 790-1Lennox Head 184lesbian travellers 1056
Brisbane 294 Melbourne 510 Perth 897Sydney 132
Leura 146LGBTIQ festivals 1056
Brisbane Pride Festival 279
Feast Festival 724Melt 294
Midsumma Festival 481Queer Film Festival 294Sydney Gay & Lesbian
Mardi Gras 107, 132Tropical Fruits 193
LGBTIQ travellers 1056Brisbane 294 Melbourne 510Perth 897 Sydney 130
Lightning Ridge 201Limestone Coast 772-8Lindeman Island 374Lismore 193-4Litchfield National Park
818-19literary festivals
Banjo Patterson Poetry Festival 204
Bellingen Readers & Writers Festival 174
Brisbane Writers Festival 279
Byron Bay Writers’ Festival 187
Corrugated Lines 997Sydney Writers’ Festi-
val 107Little Desert National Park
583-4Lizard Island 428Lobethal 742lodges 1054Lombadina 1002Long Island 371-2Longford 690-1Longreach 449-50Lord Howe Island 249-51Lorne 552-3Low Head 689Loxton 770-1Luhrmann, Baz 375Luna Park (Melbourne) 477Luna Park (Sydney) 96
MMacassans 1020MacDonnell Ranges 862-6,
839Macedon Ranges 530Mackay 362-5, 364Magnetic Island 382-5Main Beach 313-15Malanda 417Maldon 580Maleny 337Mallacoota 596-8Mallee, the 625mammals 1036-7
Man from Snowy River, the 599
Mandurah 918-20Manjimup 942-3Manly 97-9, 105Manly Scenic Walkway 104Mannum 768Mansfield 599-600maps 1058Marble Bar 987Mareeba 416Margaret River 20, 937-9,
934, 938, 20Maria Island National Park
668-70markets
Adelaide Farmers Market 735
Atherton Tablelands 416Bangalow Farmers
Market 192Barossa Farmers Market
764Bellingen Community
Market 176Bellingen Growers’
Market 175-6Bondi Markets 138Brisbane 289, 299,
300, 301Byron Bay Artisan
Market 191Byron Farmers’ Market
191Camberwell Market 512Carriageworks Farmers
Market 137Central Market 715Darwin 810Eumundi Markets 336Farm Gate Market 646Fremantle 906Glebe Markets 137-8Gilles Street Market
735Gourmet Farmers Market
315Hobart Twilight Market
651Kangaroo Island Farmers
Market 754Kuranda 415Mackay 365Margaret River 938-9Mission Beach 391Newcastle City Farmers
& Makers Market 163Old Bus Depot Markets
264Paddington Markets 137
1090
IND
EX M
markets continuedPaddy’s Markets 138Perth 892Prahran Market 476Queen Victoria Market
461Riverland Farmers
Market 771Rocks Markets, the 138Rose Street Artists’
Market 516Rusty’s Markets 406Salamanca Market 651South Melbourne Market
473St Andrews Community
Market 528St Kilda Esplanade
Market Stirling Markets 741Sydney Fish Market
82, 84Tablelands 416Townsville 381Village Markets 316Willunga Farmers Market
746Maroochydore 331-4Marrawah 703Marree 795Mary Poppins 344Maryborough 343-4Marysville 526-7Mataranka 841-3McLaren Vale 743-5, 60-1measures 1054Melbourne 13, 456-521,
458-9, 462-3, 470, 472, 474, 13, 58-9, 514, 515
accommodation 453, 481-6
activities 477-80climate 453drinking & nightlife
500-8entertainment 508-11food 453, 486-500internet access 519itineraries 456LGBTIQ travellers 510medical services 519postal services 519safety 519shopping 511-18sights 456-77
tourist information 519tours 480travel to/from 519-20travel within 520-1walking tours 467, 467
Melbourne Cup 481memorials & monuments
Anzac Memorial 77Australian War
Memorial 254Big Rocking Horse 742Desert Mounted Corps
Memorial 949Dog on the Tuckerbox
244HMAS Sydney II
Memorial 959Line of Lode Miners
Memorial 212POW Campsite & Guard
Tower 207Shrine of Remembrance
(Brisbane) 271Shrine of Remembrance
(Melbourne) 475-6Meningie 774-5meningococcal disease
1051Mereenie Loop Road 47,
51, 865Merimbula 234-6Metung 591-2migration 1025Milawa Gourmet Region
604Mildura 619-24, 623Millaa Millaa 417Millthorpe 206mining 1023-4min-min lights 451Mintaro 765-6Mittagong 238-9mobile phones 22, 1062Mogo 231Mole Creek 698-9Mollymook 228-9MONA 12, 639-40, 12money 22, 23, 1059-60Monkey Mia 969-70Mooloolaba 331-4Moonta 779Moreton Island 305-6Mornington Peninsula
530-4Moruya 231Mossman 424Mossman Gorge 424motels 1054
motorcycle travel, see car travel
mountain biking 55Adelaide Hills 722Alice Springs 854Bright 613Byron Bay 187Derby 677Falls Creek 616Flinders Ranges 785, 787Forrest 555Kiewa Valley 615Kosciuszko National Park
242, 243Mansfield 599Margaret River 940Mt Beauty 615Noosa 324Tasmania 635, 640, 677,
681, 689Mount Gambier 775-6Mt Barke 742-3Mt Beauty 614-15Mt Buffalo 612-13Mt Buller 600-1Mt Bundy Station 820Mt Connor 869-70Mt Coot-tha 275-6Mt Elizabeth Station
1007-8Mt Field National
Park 653-5Mt Hotham 617-19Mt Isa 444-7, 446Mt Kosciuszko 242Mt Lofty 740Mt Spec 387Mt Surprise 439Mt Wellington 639, 640Mudgee 209-11Mungo National Park
215-17, 620Murray Bridge 767Murray River 619-28,
767-72, 620-1museums 16, see also art
galleriesAbbey Museum 327Albany Heritage Park
949Albany Residency
Museum 950Albury Library Museum
245Apple Shed 658Australian Age of Dino-
saurs Museum 448Australian Centre for the
Moving Image 457
Australian Fossil & Mineral Museum 202
Australian Museum 85Australian National
Maritime Museum 77Australian National
Surfing Museum 548Australian Stockman’s
Hall of Fame & Outback Heritage Centre 449
Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre 211
Bass & Flinders Centre 689
Bass Strait Maritime Centre 692-3
Bay Discovery Centre 719Beaconsfield Mine &
Heritage Centre 688Bicheno Motorcycle
Museum 674Big Golden Guitar 196Bligh Museum of Pacific
Exploration 655-6Borroloola Museum 845Broome Museum 992Burke Museum 605Burnie Regional Museum
700Caboolture Warplane
Museum 328Carnarvon Space &
Technology Museum 970
Chiltern Athenaeum 608Cobb & Co Museum
306-7Country Music Hall of
Fame 196Deloraine Museum 695Discovery Bay 953East Coast Heritage
Museum 671Echuca Historical
Museum 625Fraser Coast Discovery
Sphere 337Furneaux Museum 678Golden Dragon Museum
& Gardens 571Great Aussie Beer Shed
625Great Ocean Road Story
552Gympie Gold Mining &
Historical Museum 344
Hahndorf Academy 739-40
Hellenic Museum 461-4Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1091IN
DEX M
-N
Hinkler Hall of Aviation 345
Hyde Park Barracks Museum 75
Immigration Museum 464International Cricket Hall
of Fame 238James Cook Museum 429Jewish Holocaust Centre
477Jewish Museum of
Australia 477Kiewa Valley Historical
Museum 614-15Killer Whale
Museum 236King Island Museum 703Kronosaurus Korner 444Lord Howe Island
Museum 249Low Head Maritime
Museum 689Makers’ Workshop 700Mannum Dock Museum
of River History 768Maritime Museum (Port
Macquarie) 168Maritime Museum
(Townsville) 378-9Mary MacKillop
Interpretive Centre 777
Mawson’s Huts Replica Museum 636
Melbourne Museum 469Moonta Mines Museum
779Museo Italiano 469Museum & Art Gallery of
the Northern Territory 801
Museum of Australian Democracy (Canberra) 256
Museum of Australian Democracy at Eureka (Ballarat) 566-7
Museum of Brisbane 270Museum of Central
Australia 851-2Museum of Sydney 76Museum of the Riverina
246Museum of Tropical
Queensland 377National Anzac Centre
949National Capital Exhibi-
tion 257National Holden Museum
625
National Motor Museum 742
National Motor Racing Museum 202
National Museum of Australia 257, 16
National Wool Museum 539
Ned Kelly Vault 605Never Never Museum 842New England Regional
Art Museum 198New Norcia Museum &
Art Gallery 922Newcastle Maritime
Museum 158Newcastle Museum 158Nicholson Museum 97Ningaloo Centre 977North Stradbroke Island
Historical Museum 303-4
Old Castlemaine Gaol 577Old Dubbo Gaol 208Old Timers Mine 792Old Treasury Building
457-628Outback at Isa 445Phoenix Museum 526Pioneer Village Museum
222Port Fairy History Centre
562Port Macquarie
Historical Museum 168Port of Echuca Discovery
Centre 625Post & Telegraph Office
Museum 590Portland Maritime Dis-
covery Centre 564Powerhouse Museum 97Qantas Founders Out-
back Museum 449Queen Victoria Museum
680Queenscliff Maritime
Museum 545Queensland Air Museum
329Queensland Maritime
Museum 275Queensland Museum &
Sciencentre 274Questacon 257RFDS Visitor Centre 208Rocks Discovery
Museum 71Rocky’s Hall of Fame Pio-
neers Museum 769Rottnest Museums 912
Royal Flying Doctor Service (Alice Springs) 851
Royal Flying Doctor Service (Broken Hill) 212
Royal Flying Doctor Service (Darwin) 24, 800
Science Centre & Plane-tarium 219-20
Scitech 886Shark Bay World Herit-
age Discovery Centre 967-8
Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre 240
South Australian Mari-time Museum 719
South Australian Museum 715
South Australian Whale Centre 747
St Helens History Room 675
Susannah Place Museum 75
Sydney Jewish Museum 86-7
Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 637
Tin Centre 677Torres Strait Heritage
Museum 438Trial Bay Gaol 172Umoona Opal Mine &
Museum 792Walhalla Historical
Museum 590Wallaroo Heritage &
Nautical Museum 779West Coast Reflections
707Western Australian
Museum – Albany 950Western Australian
Museum – Geraldton 959
Western Australian Museum – Maritime 905
Western Australian Museum – Shipwreck Galleries 905
Wooden Boat Centre 658music festivals
Agnes Blues & Roots Festival 353
Airlie Beach Music Festival 367
Australian Festival of Chamber Music 379
Bello Winter Music 174Big Pineapple Music
Festival 332Bigsound Festival 279Byron Bay Bluesfest 187Cairns Ukulele
Festival 405Caloundra Music
Festival 329Canberra International
Music Festival 259CMC Rocks Queensland
279Dark MOFO 643Desert Song Festival 855Falls Festival 552, 643Fleurieu Folk Festival 746Gympie Music Muster 344Hats Off to Country 197Katherine Country Music
Muster 834Laneway 907Maroochy Music & Visual
Arts Festival 332MONA FOMA 643National Folk Festival 259Park Sounds 279-81Port Fairy Folk Festival
562Queenscliff Music
Festival 546Queensland Music
Festival 279Rottofest 916South Australian Country
Music Festival 769Southbound 929Splendour in the Grass
187St Jerome’s Laneway
Festival (Melbourne) 480-1
St Jerome’s Laneway Festival (Sydney) 107
Tamworth Country Music Festival 196-7
WOMADelaide 723Woodford Folk Festival
330Myall Lakes National Park
166-8Myella 358Mystery Bay 233
NNambucca Heads 172-3Nannup 941Naracoorte Caves National
Park 775Narooma 231-3
1092
IND
EX N
Nathan River Road 51National Gallery of
Australia 254National Library of
Australia 256National Museum of
Australia 257, 16national parks & nature
reserves 25-6, 1040-1Alexander Morrison
National Park 925Badgingarra National
Park 925Bald Rock National
Park 199Ben Boyd National Park
237-8Ben Lomond National
Park 691-2Berry Springs Nature
Park 817Big Brook Arboretum
943Blue Mountains National
Park 150Booderee National
Park 228Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill)
National Park 443 Border Ranges National
Park 195Bouddi National Park 150Brisbane Water National
Park 150Broome Bird
Observatory 992Bundjalung National
Park 182Burleigh Head National
Park 316Cape Arid National
Park 958Cape Conran Coastal
Park 595-6Cape Le Grand National
Park 958Cape Range National
Park 984-5Caranbirini Conservation
Reserve 846Carnarvon National Park
361-2Cathedral Rock National
Park 175Charles Darwin National
Park 803Chiltern-Mt Pilot
National Park 608
Coffin Bay National Park 783
Conway National Park 375
Coorong National Park 774-5
Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park 17, 709-12, 17
Crater Lakes National Park 418
Croajingolong National Park 598
Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park 837
D’Aguilar National Park 271
Daintree National Park 15, 424-9, 15, 58
Dampier Archipelago 987Dandenong Ranges
National Park 522Deepwater National
Park 355Devonian Reefs National
Park 1005-6Dirk Hartog National
Park 968Djukbinj National
Park 813Dorrigo National Park 176Dryandra Woodland 922Elsey National Park 841Errinundra National
Park 595Eungella National Park
376Eurimbula National
Park 355Finke Gorge National
Park 866Fitzgerald River National
Park 952, 956Flinders Chase National
Park 758-9 Flinders Ranges National
Park 788-90, 26Fogg Dam Conservation
Reserve 813Francois Peron National
Park 969Franklin-Gordon Wild
Rivers National Park 708-9
Freycinet National Park 672-3
Garig Gunak Barlu National Park 830
Geikie (Darngku) Gorge 1005
Glass House Mountains National Park 328
Grampians National Park 578
Great Sandy National Park 335-7
Gregory National Park 841
Gundabooka National Park 211
Guy Fawkes River National Park 175
Hartz Mountains National Park 659
Hat Head National Park 171-2
Hinchinbrook Island 386Innes National Park
780-1Iron Range National
Park 437Kakadu National Park 15,
45-6, 821-8, 822, 15Kalbarri National Park
24, 965-6Kanangra-Boyd National
Park 150Karijini National Park
989-92, 990Keep River National
Park 841Kelly Hill Conservation
Park 758Kinchega National
Park 212Kosciuszko National
Park 241-4Ku-ring-gai Chase
National Park 102Lake Warden Wetland
System 956-7Lamington National
Park 321Lane Cove National
Park 100Leeuwin-Naturaliste
National Park 932Leliyn (Edith Falls) 836Lesueur National Park
924Limmen National
Park 844Lincoln National Park
782Litchfield National
Park 818-19Little Desert National
Park 583-4Little Sahara 758Living Desert State
Park 212Lorella Springs
Wilderness Park 845
MacDonnell Ranges 862-3Maria Island National
Park 668-70Mary River National
Park 817Millstream Chichester
National Park 989Minnamurra Rainforest
Centre 221Mirima National Park
1011Mitchell River National
Park 1009Mole Creek Karst
National Park 698Montague Island
(Baranguba) 231-2Moreton Island National
Park & Recreation Area 306-5
Morton National Park 239
Mt Arapiles State Park 582-3
Mt Buffalo National Park 612-13
Mt Canobolas 204Mt Coot-tha Reserve
275-6Mt Field National Park
653-5Mt William National
Park 676Mungo National Park
215-17, 620Murramarang National
Park 228Murujuga National
Park 987Myall Lakes National
Park 166-8Namadgi National
Park 266Nambung National
Park 923-4Naracoorte Caves
National Park 775Narawntapu National
Park 693Naree Budjong Djara
National Park 303New England National
Park 175Nightcap National
Park 195Ningaloo Marine Park
982-4Nitmiluk (Katherine
Gorge) National Park 19, 836-40, 19
Noosa Biosphere Reserve 323Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
1093IN
DEX N
-O
Noosa National Park 323North Head 99Orpheus Island 388Oxley Wild Rivers
National Park 175Paluma Range National
Park 387Point Nepean National
Park 532Porcupine Gorge
National Park 444Porongurup National
Park 953-4, 953Port Campbell National
Park 557Purnululu National Park
1013-14, 1014Rainbow Valley Conser-
vation Reserve 867Richmond Range
National Park 199Rinyirru (Lakefield)
National Park 434Rocky Cape National
Park 702Rowley Shoals Marine
Park 993Royal National Park
217-18Sea Acres National
Park 168Seal Bay Conservation
Park 757Shoalwater Islands
Marine Park 918Snowy River National
Park 594South Bruny National
Park 655South Head 95Southwest National Park
661, 713Springbrook National
Park 321Stirling Range National
Park 954-5, 954-5Sturt National Park 217Tamborine National
Park 321Tasman National Park
662Tasmania 633Tasmanian Wilderness
World Heritage Area 633
Tathra National Park 925
Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve 266
Tomaree National Park 164
Torndirrup National Park 953
Tower Hill Reserve 562Tunnel Creek 1005Uluru-Kata Tjuta
National Park 12, 839, 871-7, 12, 60
Undara Volcanic National Park 439
Valley of the Giants 944-5
Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park 790-1
Walls of Jerusalem National Park 699
Walpole-Nornalup National Park 944
Warrumbungle National Park 200
Watarrka National Park 870-1, 871, 2, 7, 839
Wilsons Promontory Marine National Park 586
Wilsons Promontory National Park 21, 586-9, 587, 21
Windjana Gorge 1005-6Wollumbin National
Park 195Wooroonooran National
Park 392Worimi Conservation
Lands 164Yarriabini National
Park 173Yuraygir National Park
180Nelson 565-6New England 196-200New Norcia 922New South Wales 62,
66-251, 68-9, 143, 203
accommodation 66climate 66food 66highlights 68-9travel seasons 66travel to/from 67travel within 67, 245
Newcastle 157-64, 160Newhaven 537newspapers 1054Nhill 583-4Nimbin 194-6Ninety Mile Beach 591Ningaloo Coast 972-85,
974-5
Ningaloo Marine Park 982-4
Ningaloo Reef 18, 982-4Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge)
National Park 19, 836-40, 19
Noosa 323-7, 325, 59Noosa Everglades 336Normanton 440-1Nornalup 944-6North Coast Road (King
Island) 756-7North Stradbroke Island
303-5, 304Northern Territory 64, 796-
877, 798-9, 814-15, 868-9
accommodation 796climate 796food 796highlights 798-9travel seasons 796
Northwest Corner 442-3notable buildings
Abercrombie House 202Australian Parliament
House 254-6Beechworth Courthouse
605Boyd’s Tower 238Callington Mill 666Central Tilba 233Clarendon 691Cooks’ Cottage 466, 468Como House 476Elizabeth Bay House 85Elizabeth Farm 100Elsey Station Homestead
842Experiment Farm
Cottage 99-100Flinders Street Station
457-628Fremantle Prison 905Government House
(Melbourne) 476Highfield 702Lake View House 608Lanyon Homestead
265-6Martindale Hall 766Melbourne 479Melbourne Town Hall
457Mill, the 576Museum Village 956Old Beechworth Gaol
605Old Geelong Gaol 542-3
Old Government House (Brisbane) 271
Old Government House (Sydney) 100
Parliament House (Brisbane) 270
Parliament House (Melbourne) 457
Perth Mint 882Queen Victoria
Building 77Rio Vista & Mildura Arts
Centre 619Royal Arcade 461Round House 905-6Royal Exhibition Building
469Salt Store 912Sandhurst Gaol 572Saumarez Homestead
198Sir Henry Parkes
Memorial School of Arts 199
Sun Pictures 992Sydney Opera House 70Vaucluse House 90Woolloomooloo Wharf 85
Nourlangie 826-7Nowra 225-6Nundroo 785Nuriootpa 762-3
OOatlands 666-7Oenpelli 830Old Andado Track 52Old Bar 167Old Telegraph Track 437Olgas, the, see Kata TjutaOmeo 618-19Oodnadatta 794Oodnadatta Track 51,
794-5, 46opening hours 23, 1060Orange 204-5Ormiston Gorge 864Orpheus Island 388Otway Fly 557outback, the 27, 44-52,
791-5, 839, 48-9, 51cycling 46driving 50facilities 46highways 52permits 52road trains 47safety 50
1094
IND
EX O-R
outback, the continuedtours 47tracks 47, 51-2transport 45travel seasons 44-5websites 47
Overland Track 710
Ppaddle-steamers 628Palm Beach 318-19Palm Cove 413-14Paluma Range National
Park 387Pambula 234-6Parachilna 790paragliding
Bright 613Rainbow Beach 342
Parap Village 808Paringa 771-2Parkes 209parks & gardens
Adelaide Botanic Gardens 715, 718
Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden 781
Australian National Botanic Gardens 256
Barangaroo Reserve 24, 71
Bicentennial Park 797Birrarung Marr 457Booderee Botanic
Gardens 228Botanic Gardens
(Ballarat) 567Brisbane Botanic
Gardens 275Cataract Gorge 680Centennial Park 87Chinese Garden of
Friendship 81City Botanic Gardens
(Brisbane) 270Djanbung Gardens 194Dubbo Regional Botanic
Garden 207-8East Point Reserve 801Fitzroy Gardens 466Flagstaff Gardens 464Flecker Botanic Gardens
393Foxglove Gardens 233George Brown Botanic
Gardens 797
Hyde Park 77Japanese Garden 206King Edward Park 158Kings Park & Botanic
Garden 879Mackay Regional
Botanical Gardens 362Mrs Macquaries Point
70-1Mt Lofty Botanic Garden
741National Arboretum 256New Farm Park 275Nielsen Park 95Olive Pink Botanic
Garden 851Roma Street Parkland
270Rosalind Park 572Royal Botanic Garden
(Sydney) Sydney 70Royal Botanic Gardens
(Melbourne) 473-5Royal Tasmanian
Botanical Gardens 640
South Bank Parklands 274
St Kilda Botanical Gardens 477
Telegraph Station Historical Reserve 851
Wollongong Botanic Garden 218
Wombat Hill Botanic Gardens 528
Paronella Park 391Parramatta 24passports 1067Paterson, Banjo 447Patyegarang 1019Pemberton 943-4Pender Bay 1001-2penguins 535-6, 699, 701Penneshaw 754-5Penola 777-8Penong 785Perth 879, 882-903,
884-5, 888-9, 894, 898-9, 913, 61
accommodation 878, 887-91
activities 883-6beaches 882-3children, travel with 886drinking & nightlife
896-9festivals & events 886-7food 878, 891-6internet access 901
itineraries 883LGBTIQ travellers 897medical services 901postal services 901shopping 901sights 879-882tourist information 902tours 886travel to/from 902travel within 902-3
Phar Lap 1028Phillip Island 534-8, 535phonecards 1062Pieman River 705Pilbara 972-3, 974-5Pimba 791Pine Creek 820-1Pink Lake 962Pinnacles Desert 19,
923-4, 19planetariums
Brisbane 276 Launceston 680 Wollongong 218 Sydney 71
planningAustralia basics 22-3Australia’s regions 62-4budgeting 23calendar of events 28-31children, travel with
1054-5itineraries 32-6, 32, 33,
34, 36outback travel 44-52repeat visitors 24travel seasons 22,
28-31, 53websites 23, 24
plants 925, 1038Plenty Highway 52politics 1016-17population 1017Porongurup National Park
953-4, 953Port Arthur 664-6Port Augusta 781-2Port Campbell 558-9Port Douglas 400-1, 418-
24, 420, 41, 401Port Elliot 748-9Port Fairy 562-3, 541Port Hedland 988-9Port Lincoln 782-3Port Macquarie 168-71,
170-1Port Stephens 164-6Port Vincent 779
Portland 563-5possums 1041postal services 1060pub accommodation
1054pubs 26, 1046public holidays 1060-1Purnululu National Park
1013-14, 1014
Qquarantine, interstate 1059Queen Victoria Building
77, 78Queenscliff 545-7Queensland 63, 267-452,
268-9accommodation 267climate 267food 267highlights 268-9outback 443-52travel seasons 267
Queensland Cultural Centre 271
Queenstown 705-6Quobba Coast 971-2quokkas 916quolls 823
Rradio 1034, 1054Rainbow Beach 342-3Rainforestation 415Ravenswood 384Raymond Island 593Recherche Bay 661Red Centre Way 865Red Hill 533-4reef walking 403religion 1017Renmark 771-2rental accommodation
1054reptiles 1037-8Richmond (Tasmania)
652-3Riesling trail 766Rinyirru (Lakefield)
National Park 434Riverina 244-9road conditions 1076road rules 1077road trains 47roadhouses 849Robe 773-4
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1095IN
DEX R
-S rock art 860-1, 1032, 22
Arnhem Land 828, 829, 830
Flinders Ranges 789 Grampians, the 566, 582 Kakadu National Park
821, 822-3, 824, 826 Kimberley 1004, 1009 Mulka’s Cave 921 Nitmiluk (Katherine
Gorge) National Park 836, 837
Pilbara 986, 987 Qunikan Country 435 Uluru 876, 877
rock climbing & abseilingBlue Mountains 143Brisbane 277Cairns 395-6Grampians 580Kalbarri National
Park 964Karijini National park 991Margaret River 940Mt Arapiles 582-3Mt Buffalo 612Snowy River National
Park 594Tasmania 634, 640, 679,
680, 713Rockhampton 356-8Rockingham 917-18Rocks, the 70-5, 82-3,
80, 83Roebourne 987-8Roper Highway 843-4Rosevears 687-8Ross 667-8Ross River fever 1051Rottnest Island
(Wadjemup) 911-17, 914Royal Australian Mint 257Royal Flying Doctor Service
208, 212, 444, 800, 851, 875, 1057
Royal National Park 217-18rugby 1048Rutherglen 609-12
Ssafety 1050-1, 1061
beaches 1051, 1057-8bushwalking 54-5car travel 1072-3crocodiles 1050cyclones 368dingoes 350hitching 1077
sharks 1042, 1050 women travellers 1064-5
sailing 42-3, 403Airlie Beach 38, 365-7Coral Bay 973-4Magnetic Island 383Port Douglas 419, 420Strahan 707Tasmania 633Whitsundays 367, 370,
372Salamanca Market 651Sale 591Sandover Highway 52Sapphire Coast 234-8scenic flights, see also
hot-air ballooningAirlie Beach 367Broome 993Coral Bay 973Denham 968Derby 1004Fraser Island 338Great Barrier Reef 397,
403Gulf of Carpentaria 844Halls Creek 1010Kakadu National Park
823Katherine Gorge 837Kimberley, the 1004Kings Canyon 870Kununurra 1011Sydney 106-7Uluru-Kata Tjuta
National Park 872Watarrka National Park
870Whitsundays 367Wilsons Promontory
National Park 586Yulara 872
scenic railwaysHotham Valley Railway
920Ida Bay Railway 661Pemberton Tramway 943Puffing Billy 522Walhalla Goldfields 590West Coast Wilderness
Railway 707Schoolies 313Seal Rocks 166Seisia 437Serpentine Gorge 864Shark Bay 966-70sharks 1042, 1050Sheffield 694-5
Shoalhaven Coast 223-9Silverton 215Simpson Desert 52skiing 55
Falls Creek 616-17Kosciuszko National
Park 242-3 Lake Mountain 526 Mt Buffalo 612-13 Mt Buller 600-1 Mt Hotham 616-18 Mt Kosciuszko 243Mt Mawson 654 Perisher 243Thredbo 242-3
skydivingAirlie Beach 366Avon Valley 921Brisbane 277Cairns 398Caloundra 329Hervey Bay 339Mission Beach 388Sunshine Coast 334Townsville 379
smoking 1054snakes 1050Snapper Rocks 317, 319snorkelling, see diving &
snorkellingsnowboarding, see skiingSnowy Mountains 239-44soccer 1048South Australia 64, 714-95,
716-17, 514accommodation 714cilmate 714food 714highlights 716-17history 715sights 715-19travel seasons 714
South Coast Road (King Island) 757-8
South Molle Island 373South Stradbroke Island
320South West Rocks 172 Southern Highlands 238-9Southern Reef Islands
355-6, 400Southport 661Sovereign Hill 566spas
Byron Bay 186Hepburn Springs 528Mornington
Peninsula 533
spiders 1050-1Spit, the 313, 317sport 1047-8sporting events
AFL Grand Final 481Airlie Beach Race Week
367Alice Springs Camel
Cup 855Alice Springs Cup
Carnival 854Australian Formula 1
Grand Prix 481Australian
Motorcycle Grand Prix 537
Australian Open 480Australian Outback
Marathon 873Bathurst 1000 202Beer Can Regatta 803Birdsville Cup 452Brisbane International
278City2Surf 107Clipsal 500 723Darwin Cup Carnival 803Finke Desert Race 854Gold Coast 600 311Henley-on-Todd Regatta
855Marble Bar Cup 987Melbourne Cup 481Mt Isa Rodeo 445Noosa Festival of Surfing
324Perth Cup 886Quicksilver & Roxy
Pro 319Rip Curl Pro 550Sydney to Hobart Yacht
Race 107, 641-2Tiwi Grand Final 812Tour Down Under 723Uluru Camel Cup 854
sports stadiumsAdelaide Oval 718-19Gabba, the 298-9Melbourne Cricket
Ground 466 Sydney Cricket Ground
135Springbrook National
Park 321St Helens 675-6Stanley 702-3Stansbury 779Stanthorpe 308-9Stirling 740-1
1096
IND
EX S-U
Stirling Range National Park 954-5, 954-5
Stolen Generations 1026Story Bridge Adventure
Climb 277storytelling 1034Strahan 706-8Strathgordon 712-13Streaky Bay 784street art
Brisbane 276, 278-9, 283, 300
Geelong 539, 542 Melbourne 457, 467, 468,
476, 480, 515Strzelecki Track 51, 795Stuart Highway 45, 52Sunset Coast 922-6Sunshine Coast
321-37, 322Sunshine Coast
hinterland 337Surfers Paradise
311-13, 312surfing 55-6
Anglesea 550Australian National
Surfing Museum 548Batemans Bay 230Byron Bay 187Coffs Harbour 177-8Coolangatta 319Coolum 334Geraldton 959-60Gold Coast 317Margaret River 940, 20Merimbula 235Mooloolaba 332Myall Lakes National
Park 166-7Noosa 323, 324Ocean Beach 946Perth 883, 885Phillip Island 536Port Elliot 749Port Macquarie 168Port Stephens 164Rainbow Beach 342Rip Curl Pro 550Surfers Paradise 311Sydney 102Tamarama Beach 93Torquay 548Wollongong 220Woolgoolga 180
Swansea 670-2swimming 1048
Melbourne 479-80safety 93, 1051, 1061Sydney 102-4 Sydney’s ocean pools
92-3, 79, 91, 94Sydney 11, 66-142, 74-5,
80, 84, 86, 88-9, 96, 101, 105, 143, 78, 72-3
accommodation 66, 108-13
activities 100-5children, travel with 104climate 66drinking & nightlife
124-33entertainment 133-6festivals & events 107food 66, 114-24history 67itineraries 71LGBTIQ travellers 132medical services 139shopping 136-9sights 70-100tourist information 139tours 105-7travel to/from 139-40travel within 140-2walking tours 82-3, 83
Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras 107, 132
Sydney Harbour 90-6, 72-3
Sydney Harbour Bridge 70, 72-3, 31, 58, 72-3
Sydney Observatory 71Sydney Opera House 70,
78-9Sydney to Hobart Yacht
Race 641-2Sydney Tower Eye 77
TTamar Valley 686-9Tamborine Mountain 320-1Tamworth 196-8Tamworth Country Music
Festival 196-7Tanami Track 52, 850Tanunda 760-2Taree 167Tarkine Wilderness 704-5Taronga Western Plains
Zoo 207Taronga Zoo 95-6
Tasman Arch 663Tasman Peninsula 661-6,
663Tasmania 63, 629-713,
630-1, 657, 669, 687, 694-5
accommodation 629activities 633-4climate 629food 629highlights 630-1history 632-3national parks 633tourist information 634tours 634travel seasons 629travel to/from 634travel within 634-5
Tasmanian devils 670, 663-4, 674, 698, 709, 1042
Tasmanian tigers 940, 941, 1016, 1023, 1032
Tasmanian Trail 635taxes 1060Teewah coloured sand
cliffs 335telephone services 23,
1061-2television 1034, 1054Tennant Creek 847-9tennis 28, 278, 480, 1048Tenterfield 199-200Terrigal 150theme parks, see
amusement parks Three Sisters 147Thursday Island 438-9Tibooburra 217Tilba Tilba 233Timber Creek 840-1Timboon 559time 22, 1062Tinamba Hotel 590Tip, the 438tipping 1045-6, 1060Tiwi Islands 812-13toilets 1062Toowoomba 306-8Torquay 547-9Torres Strait Islanders 1031Torres Strait Islands 438tourist information 1062tours, see also individual
locations, Aboriginal cultural tours, adven-ture tours, boat tours & cruises, driving tours, food & wine tours,
ghost tours, walking tours, whale watching
Adelaide 722-3, 738Alice Springs 854Arnhem Land 828-9Blue Mountains 142-3Brisbane 278bus 142-3camel 872camel tours 993-7cycling 106Darwin 802-3fishing 831Great Barrier Reef 397Great Ocean Road 550Kakadu National Park
823-4Karijini National Park
991Katherine 832-4Katherine Gorge 836-7Mary River 815McLaren Vale 744-5Melbourne 480Mildura 216outback 47rock art 830Sydney 105-7Tiwi Islands 812Uluru-Kata Tjuta
National Park 872wildlife 536, 754, 756,
802, 907Tower Hill 562Town of 1770 351-5Townsville 376-82, 400,
378, 401train travel 1077, see also
scenic railwaysGhan, the 21, 24, 21historic 440
travel advisories 1061travel seasons 28-31, 53travel to/from Australia 23,
1067-8travel within Australia 23,
1068-77Travers, Pamela Lyndon
(PL) 343trekking, see
bushwalkingTrentham 530Tropfest 107Tully 386-7Tully River 389Turquoise Coast 922-6turtles 345, 355, 411, 802,
981, 982, 993TV 1034, 1054Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
1097IN
DEX U
-W
Twelve Apostles 13, 557-8, 559, 13, 540
typhus 1051
UUbirr 824-5Ulladulla 228-9Uluru 12, 45, 839, 875-7,
876, 12, 838-9Uluru-Kata Tjuta National
Park 12, 839, 871-7, 60Unaipon, David 1023, 1034Unesco World Heritage
Sites 70, 1036Daintree, the 15,
424-9, 15, 58Fraser Island 21, 338,
346-51, 347, 21Great Barrier Reef 11, 37-
43, 377, 399-404, 39, 11, 41, 399-401
Kakadu National Park 15, 821-8, 822, 15
Lamington National Park 321
Macquarie Island World Heritage Area 633
Naracoorte Caves National Park 775
Ningaloo Reef 18, 982-4Tasmanian Wilderness
World Heritage Area 633
Vvacations 1060-1vaccinations 1057Vegemite 1045Victor Harbor 747-8Victoria 63, 453-628,
454-5, 523, 538-9, 579, 584-5, 587, 602-3, 620-1
accommodation 453climate 453food 453highlights 454-5travel seasons 453
Victoria Highway 46, 52Victoria River Crossing 840viral encephalitis 1051visas 22, 1063-4volunteering 997, 1064
WWadjemup 911-17, 914Wagga Wagga 246-7Waikerie 768-9
Walhalla 589-90walking, see bushwalkingwalking tours
Apollo Bay 555Broome 997Cradle Mountain 710Darwin 802-3Flinders Ranges 785Fremantle 907Hahndorf 740Hobart 640-1Mackay 362Melbourne 467, 480, 467Perth 886Rottnest Island 915Sheffield 694Sydney 82-3, 104-5,
106, 83wallabies 385, 823, 864Wallaroo 778-9wallaroos 864Walls of Jerusalem
National Park 699Walpole 944-6‘Waltzing Matilda’ 447Warrnambool 560-2Warrumbungle National
Park 200Watarrka 839Watarrka National Park
870-1, 871, 7, 839water, drinking 1058waterfalls
Bloomfield Falls 429Crystal Cascades 393Erskine Falls 552Gunlom 828Jim Jim Falls 827Jourama Falls 387Maguk 828Mitchell Falls 1009Russell Falls 653Steavenson Falls 526Twin Falls 827Wallaman Falls 385Waterfall Way 175 Wentworth Falls 145
Wave Rock 920-1We of the Never Never 842weather 22, 28-31, 44-5,
1035, see also individual locations
websites 23activities 57bicycle travel 1069camping 24Great Barrier Reef 38 outback, the 47
Wegener, Tom 336weights 1054Weipa 436Wentworth Falls 145-6Western Australia 64,
878-1014, 880-1, 927, 946-7, 974-5, 983
accommodation 878climate 878food 878highlights 880-1travel seasons 878
Wet Tropics World Heritage Area 392
whale sharks 18, 973, 976, 978, 982, 18
whales 1041whale watching 29, 57
Albany 949, 951Dunsborough 931Eden 236Fremantle 907Hervey Bay 337-8,
340, 57Jervis Bay 226, 227Merimbula 235Mooloolaba 332Ningaloo Marine Park
982, 984 Perth 883
Whitehaven Beach 371, 401-2
white-water raftingCairns 397-8Franklin River 708-9Snowy River 594Tully River 389, 397-8
Whitsunday Coast 362-76, 363
Whitsunday Island 374Whitsundays, the 14, 370-4,
400, 14, 402wi-fi 1058wilderness areas 25-6, see
also national parks & nature reserves
Tarkine Wilderness 704-5wildlife 15, 404, 1036-8,
see also individual species
wildlife reserves & sanctuaries
Alice Springs Desert Park 850-1
Alice Springs Reptile Centre 851
Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary 790
Barna Mia Animal Sanctuary 922
BatReach 415Bellingen Island 174Billabong Sanctuary 377Bonorong Wildlife Centre
652Cairns Turtle
Rehabilitation Centre 411
Charleville Bilby Experience 451
Cleland Wildlife Park 741 Currumbin Wildlife
Sanctuary 318David Fleay Wildlife
Park 317Devils@Cradle 709Dolphin Discovery
Centre 926Hamelin Pool 967Healesville Sanctuary 524Island Sanctuary 248Kangaroo Island 753Koala Care Centre 193Koala Hospital 168Kuranda Koala Gardens
415Lone Pine Koala
Sanctuary 276-7Monkey Mia Marine
Reserve 969Mornington Wilderness
Camp 1007Pungalina-Seven Emu
Wildlife Sanctuary 847Tasmanian Devil Unzoo
663-4 Trowunna Wildlife
Park 698Tyto wetlands 385Window on the Wetlands
Visitor Centre 813wildlife watching 55, 1041-2William Creek 794Wills, William John 1022Willunga 745-6Wilpena Pound 788,
789, 26Wilsons Promontory
National Park 21, 586-9, 587, 21
Wilyabrup 935-7windsurfing 923wine regions 16, 26, 1044
Barossa Valley 16, 763, 16
Bellarine Peninsula 546Canberra 266Clare Valley 765, 26Coal River Valley 653Coonawarra 777-8
1098
IND
EX W-Z
wine regions continued Granite Belt 308Griffith 247-8Hunter Valley 151-7 King Valley 603-4Margaret River
932-41, 934McLaren Vale 744, 60-1Milawa 604Mornington Peninsula
534Mudgee 209-11Orange 204-5Pemberton 943Penfolds 719Pipers River 690Riesling Trail 766 Rutherglen 611Stanthorpe 309Tamar Valley 686, 687 Yarra Valley 525
Wineglass Bay 673Wingham 167
Winton 447-9Wollongong 218-21, 219WOMADelaide 723wombats 54, 529, 1037women travellers 1064-5Woodend 530Woodford 330Woolgoolga 180Woomera 791-2Wooroonooran National
Park 392work 1065-6World Heritage Sites, see
Unesco World Heritage Sites
Wugularr 843Wye River 554Wyndham 1008
Yyachting, see sailingYackandandah 607-8Yallingup 933, 935
Yamba 181-3Yardie Creek Gorge 985Yarra Valley 523-6Yellow Water 827Yeppoon 358-60York 921-2Yorke Peninsula
778-81, 780Yorkeys Knob 411-12Yulara 872-5, 873Yungaburra 417-18
Zzoos, see also aquariums
Adelaide Zoo 718Australian Reptile Park
150Ballarat Wildlife Park 567Bunbury Wildlife Park
926Crocodylus Park 802Crocosaurus Cove 797Halls Gap Zoo 580
Mansfield Zoo 599Melbourne Zoo 471Mogo Zoo 231Monarto Zoo 767National Zoo &
Aquarium 256Natureworld 674Perth Zoo 882Platypus House 688Potoroo Palace 234-5Rainbow Jungle Parrot
Sanctuary 962-3Raptor Domain 758Richmond ZooDoo
Zoo 652Taronga Western Plains
Zoo 207Taronga Zoo 95-6Territory Wildlife
Park 816Wildlife Habitat Port
Douglas 419Wildlife HQ 331Wild Life Sydney Zoo 82
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
1099N
OTES
1100
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Benedict WalkerSouthwest, Central & Outback New South Wales Ben was born in Newcastle, Australia, and grew up in the ‘burbs spending weekends and long summers by the beach, whenever possible. Although he’s drawn magnetically to the kinds of mountains he encountered in the Canadian Rockies and the Japan and Swiss Alps, beach life is in his blood. Japan was the first gig he got for Lonely Planet, in 2008, and he’s been blessed to have been asked back three more times since
then. He really is someone who is living his dreams, though life on the road can have its ups and downs. He’s also written and directed a play, toured Australia managing the travel logistics for top-billing music festivals and is playing around with photography and film-making. Join him on his journeys on Insta gram: @wordsandjourneys.
Steve WatersBroome & the Kimberley Travel and adventure have always been Steve’s life; he couldn’t imagine a world without them. He’s been using Lonely Planet guide-books for more than 30 years in places as diverse as Iran, Central Asia, Kam-chatka, Tuva, the Himalaya, Canada, Patagonia, the Australian Outback, NE Asia, Myanmar and the Sahara. Little wonder then that he finally got a gig with the company he was supporting! He’s contributed to Iran and Indonesia guidebooks,
and to the past four editions of Western Australia, and come any September you’re likely to find him in a remote gorge somewhere in the Kimberley. His travel ethos:Travel gives you a unique view of the world. Patience, acceptance, resourcefulness and flexibility are all lessons well learnt. Plans change, where some people see obstacles, others see possibilities. Go with an open mind. But go!
Donna WheelerCentral Coast New South Wales, Byron Bay & Northern New South Wales, the Gold Coast Donna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for 10 years, contrib-uting to guides to Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Melbourne. She is the author of Paris Precincts, a curated photographic guide to the city’s best bars, restaurants and shops and is a reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher My Art Guides. Donna’s work on contemporary art,
architecture and design, food, wine, wilderness areas and cultural history can be found in a variety of other publications. She became a travel writer after various careers as a commissioning editor, creative director, digital producer and content strategist.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Peter DragicevichCanberra, ACT & Snowy Mountains, Melbourne & Victoria After a successful ca-reer in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New
Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.
Trent HoldenAround Melbourne, Mornington Peninsula & Phillip Island, Great Ocean Road, Goldfields & Grampians, Wilsons Promontory & Gippsland, Victorian High Country A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s contributed to 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better
– to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes guides to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spending all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.
Virginia MaxwellLaunceston & Around, Devonport & Northwestern Tasmania, Cradle Country & Western Tasmania Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage in Europe and the Middle East. The Mediterranean is her favourite place to travel, and she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Morocco for Lonely Planet guidebooks – there are only eight more countries to go! Virginia also writes
about Armenia, Iran and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.
Tamara ShewardCairns & Around After years of freelance travel writing, rock’n’roll journalism and insalubrious authordom, Tamara leapt at the chance to join the Lonely Planet ranks in 2009. Since then, she’s worked on guides to an incongruous jumble of countries including Montenegro, Australia, Serbia, Russia, the Samoas, Bulgaria and Fiji. She’s written a miscellany of travel articles for the BBC, The Independ-ent, Sydney Morning Herald et al; she’s also fronted the camera as a documen-
tary presenter for Lonely Planet TV, Nat Geo and Al-Jazeera. Tamara’s based in far northern Austral-ia, but you’re more likely to find her roaming elsewhere, tattered notebook in one hand, the world’s best-travelled toddler in the other.
Tom SpurlingFraser Island & the Fraser Coast, Capricorn Coast, Whitsunday Coast, Townsville & Mission Beach, the Great Barrier Reef For this edition, Tom Spurling bumbled from Mission Beach to Fraser Island, but he grew up further south where fewer things can sting you. He has worked on 14 Lonely Planet titles, including Central America, India, Turkey, Japan, South Africa and China. When not pretending to be a twenty-something backpacker, he is a much older married man with two
small children who discusses very grave matters with high school students in Hong Kong.
Charles Rawlings-WayQueensland, Hobart & Tasmania, Adelaide & South Australia Charles is a veteran travel writer who has penned 30-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singapore, Toronto, Sydney, Tasmania, New Zealand, the South Pacific and Australia – and numerous articles. After dabbling in the dark arts of architec-ture, cartography, project management and busking for some years, Charles hit the road for LP in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since. ‘What’s in store for
me in the direction I don’t take?’ (Kerouac).
Andy SymingtonSydney, South Coast NSW, Lord Howe Island Andy has written or worked on more than a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and web-sites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Originally from Aus-
tralia, Andy moved to northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.
Kate ArmstrongThe Murray Kate has spent much of her adult life travelling and living around the world. A full-time freelance travel journalist, she has contributed to around 40 Lonely Planet guides and trade publications and is regularly published in Austral-ian and worldwide publications. She is the author of several books and children’s educational titles. Over the years, Kate has worked in Mozambique, picked grapes in France and danced in a Bolivian folkloric troupe. A keen photographer,
greedy gourmand and frenetic festival goer, she enjoys exploring off-the-beaten-track locations, restaurants and theatres. You can read more about her on www.katearmstrongtravelwriter.com and @nomaditis.
Carolyn BainMonkey Mia & the Central West, Ningaloo Coast & the Pilbara, Outback Western Australia A travel writer and editor for 16 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various corners of the globe, including London, Denmark, St Peters-burg and Nantucket. She is regularly drawn north from her base in Melbourne, Australia to cover diverse destinations for Lonely Planet, from dusty outback Australia to luminous Greek islands, by way of Maine’s lobster shacks and Slove-
nia’s alpine lakes. The Nordic region stakes a large claim to her heart, with repeated visits to Iceland and Denmark for work and pleasure. Carolyn writes about travel and food for a range of publishers; see carolynbain.com.au for more.
Cristian BonettoBrisbane & Around, Noosa & the Sunshine Coast, Melbourne Cristian has con-tributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, spanning cities, regions and countries across four continents, including his homeland, Australia. His musings on travel, food, culture and design have appeared in numerous publi-cations and media outlets around the world. When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping espresso in his beloved
hometown, Melbourne. You can follow Cristian’s adventures on Instagram (rexcat75) and Twitter (@CristianBonetto).
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415319th edition – Nov 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 237 0© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSBrett AtkinsonPerth, Around Perth, Margaret River & the Southwest Coast, Southern WA For this edition, Brett uncovered new restaurants, bars and distilleries in Perth and Fremantle, and jumped from beach to forest and back to beach throughout Margaret River and the southwest. In Albany, a poignant highlight was the National Anzac Centre telling the story of brave WWI soldiers. Brett has con-tributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning Europe, Africa, Asia, the United
States and the Pacific, and covered over 60 countries as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures.
Anthony HamCentral Australia, Northern Territory Anthony is a freelance writer and pho-tographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US.
Paul HardingCairns & the Daintree, Cape York Peninsula, Gulf Savannah, Outback Queens-land, As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Iceland, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.
Kate MorganMelbourne & Victoria Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at
home working as a freelance editor.
OVERPAGE
MORE WRITERS
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