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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. 1078 1078 OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alan Taylor, Anastasia Papaioannou, Andrea Edwards, Andrew Walter, Cathy Sohler, Daniel Richard, Jane Rushworth, Kathrin Schad, Kersti Esbjörnsson, Mary Munro, Patricia Aufderheide, Pauline Dejoux, Sain Alizada, Shelagh O’Brien WRITER THANKS Brett Atkinson Thanks to Tourism WA and visitor information centres and Parks and Wildlife offices throughout the state. Cheers to Western Australia’s talented craft brewers for refreshment on the road, and special thanks to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for another opportunity to explore my spectacular neighbour. Thanks also to my fellow authors, Carolyn and Steve, and the industrious in-house editors and cartogra- phers. Final thanks to Carol for helping me devour the excellent Hippocampus gin and Temper Temper chocolate when I got home. Anthony Ham A very big thank you to Tasmin Waby for sending me out into some of Australia’s most beautiful corners and for her commitment to good writing. Thanks also to Liam, Sticks, Mandy Dwyer and so many others who made my stay in the Northern Territory so mem- orable. And to my family who always keep the home fires burning – os quiero and I can’t wait to take you there next time. Paul Harding Thanks to all those travellers and locals who helped with company and advice on my journey through Queensland’s most remote corners, especially the helpful guys who got me out of vehicular trouble at Eliot Falls. Thanks to Tamara for coffee and a chat in Cairns, and to Tasmin at LP. But mostly to Hannah and Layla for being there. Kate Morgan Big thanks to Destination Editor Tasmin Waby for the opportunity to basically eat and drink my way around Melbourne’s best neighbourhoods! Thank you to Caro Cooper for suggestions and being a drinking partner on occasion, and to my partner Trent for all your help and support. Charles Rawlings-Way Huge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to all the helpful souls I met and friends I reconnected with on the road in South Australia and Tasmania, who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the increas- ingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting around in the sunshine (‘Where’s daddy?’) – and made sure that Ione, Remy Liv and Reuben were fed, watered, schooled, tucked-in and read-to. Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/australia-19-index.pdf · BEHIND THE SCENES Donna Wheeler Love and gratitude to Juliette Claire for her inspi-ration

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

10781078

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alan Taylor, Anastasia Papaioannou, Andrea Edwards, Andrew Walter, Cathy Sohler, Daniel Richard, Jane Rushworth, Kathrin Schad, Kersti Esbjörnsson, Mary Munro, Patricia Aufderheide, Pauline Dejoux, Sain Alizada, Shelagh O’Brien

WRITER THANKSBrett AtkinsonThanks to Tourism WA and visitor information centres and Parks and Wildlife offices throughout the state. Cheers to Western Australia’s talented craft brewers for refreshment on the road, and special thanks to Tasmin Waby at Lonely Planet for another opportunity to explore my spectacular neighbour. Thanks also to my fellow authors, Carolyn and Steve, and the industrious in-house editors and cartogra-phers. Final thanks to Carol for helping me devour the excellent Hippocampus gin and Temper Temper chocolate when I got home.

Anthony HamA very big thank you to Tasmin Waby for sending me out into some of Australia’s most beautiful corners and for her commitment to good writing. Thanks also to Liam, Sticks, Mandy Dwyer and so many others

who made my stay in the Northern Territory so mem-orable. And to my family who always keep the home fires burning – os quiero and I can’t wait to take you there next time.

Paul HardingThanks to all those travellers and locals who helped with company and advice on my journey through Queensland’s most remote corners, especially the helpful guys who got me out of vehicular trouble at Eliot Falls. Thanks to Tamara for coffee and a chat in Cairns, and to Tasmin at LP. But mostly to Hannah and Layla for being there.

Kate MorganBig thanks to Destination Editor Tasmin Waby for the opportunity to basically eat and drink my way around Melbourne’s best neighbourhoods! Thank you to Caro Cooper for suggestions and being a drinking partner on occasion, and to my partner Trent for all your help and support.

Charles Rawlings-WayHuge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to all the helpful souls I met and friends I reconnected with on the road in South Australia and Tasmania, who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the increas-ingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting around in the sunshine (‘Where’s daddy?’) – and made sure that Ione, Remy Liv and Reuben were fed, watered, schooled, tucked-in and read-to.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 2: Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/australia-19-index.pdf · BEHIND THE SCENES Donna Wheeler Love and gratitude to Juliette Claire for her inspi-ration

1079BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Andy SymingtonAs a prodigal Sydneysider returned for this project, I’ve had so much invaluable advice and help from friends about what’s going on in town that I can’t possibly thank them all. Tourist offices and more were helpful across the region. Particular gratitude, however, goes to Stephen Freiberg, Kate McGuin-ness, Hugh O’Keefe, Ben Hamilton, Matthew Beech, Iain and Amanda Ashley, Tasmin Waby and the LP team. And also, as ever, to my family.

Kate ArmstrongParticular thanks to Jacqui Loftus-Hills, Visit Vic-toria; Wendy Jones, Goulburn River Valley Tourism; Sue Couttie, Tourism Northeast; Marie Glasson, Greater Shepparton City Council; and Fran Martin, Echuca Visitor Information Centre. Finally, to my dear friends Sue Mulligan, Lou Bull and Emmo – with thanks.

Carolyn BainCovering such vast distances and calling to check on some astoundingly beautiful coastline was a joy – my thanks to Tasmin Waby for the com-mission, and to fellow WA scribes Brett Atkinson and Steve Waters for sharing info. In the west, sincere thanks to all those who guided me to find ancient rocks, manta rays, deserted beaches and breathtaking aerial panoramas, and also to those who shared a beer, a chat, travel tips and recommendations.

Cristian BonettoFirst and foremost, an epic thank you to Drew Westbrook for his hospitality and generosity. Sin-cere thanks also to Craig Bradbery, Tim Crabtree, Amy Ratcliffe, Leanne Layfield, Terese Finegan, Michael Flocke, Simon Betteridge, Annabel Sulli-van, Garry Judd and the many locals who offered insight and insider knowledge along the way. At Lonely Planet, a huge thanks to Tasmin Waby for her support and encouragement.

Peter DragicevichResearching this guidebook was an absolute pleasure, especially because of the wonderful company that I had on the road. Special thanks go to Braith Bamkin, Peter van Gaalen, Marg Toohey and Jo Stafford for all their practical assistance in Melbourne, and to David Mills and Barry Sawtell for the Canberra Morrissey safari. And cheers to all my eating and drinking buddies along the way, espe-cially Errol Hunt, Kim Shearman, Cristian Bonetto and Maryanne Netto.

Trent HoldenFirst up a massive thanks to Tasmin Waby for commissioning me to update the bulk of regional Victoria. Was an absolute honour to cover my home state. Totally blown away how much cool stuff there is to visit out here. Thanks to all the tourist visitor centres across the state, who are staffed by a fantastic team of volunteers who are doing a sensational job. Cheers to everyone else for giving me the time of day for a chat, and helping me put

together this new edition. As per always lots of love to my family, particularly my partner Kate, who I had the great fortune of having accompany me this time round.

Virginia MaxwellStaff at visitor information centres in Tasmania were almost universally knowledgeable, helpful and friendly. Particular thanks go to Jo in Wyn-yard, Bronwyn in Strahan and Michelle at Cradle Mountain. Thanks, too, to my travel companions Peter Handsaker and Catherine Hannebery, to Janni Soltys for first bringing Pumphouse Point to my attention and to Mandy Stroebel for her local insight.

Tamara ShewardSweaty Cairns hugs and hearty thanks to my friends, family, local experts and random ring-ins who helped me delve ever deeper into the wonders of my hometown and surrounds; it’s always an eye-opener being a traveller/travel writer in one’s own backyard. At LP, mega-thanks to Tasmin Waby for the gig, and for your eternal encouragement; and to chapter co-author Paul Harding. The biggest clink of the coconuts goes, as ever, to my favourite FNQers: my crazy crocodiles Dušan and Masha.

Tom SpurlingTo Tasmin for choosing me to go around again! To Goose for riding shotgun to Rockhampton and making me go for a jog. To Lucy for sleeping in the backseat and showing no interest in cryptic crosswords. To the bar staff in Ravenswood for reminding me why I wanted this job in the first place. To the Whitsundays for being discovered. To the Town of 1770 for providing so many openings at dinner parties (a number? Really?). To my children for not missing me very much (I will never forget that slight, O and P).

Benedict WalkerHuge thanks to Tasmin Waby/Tamsin Maybe from LP for taking me on for this awesome roadie and for sticking by me when I struck a few potholes along the way. To my sometime co-pilot, the lovely Sarah Sabell, for teaching me to drive stick and not fighting with me even once! And to my beautiful mum Trish, and the Cooks, who let me go off to do my own thing at a time of family grief. I live a weird and wonderful life but without your love and support, I’d have nothing and be nobody.

Steve WatersThanks to Trace and Heath, Brodie, Abbie, Meika and Kaeghan for midnight arrivals, James, Toby, John, Sam, Lauren, Dana and the rest of MC for gorge love, Di for making us a cuppa during the grand final, Unruly Ted for getting that trivia ques-tion, Roz and Megan for caretaking and especially Hamish and Kaz for sharing all those sunsets and sunrises and drowning out the dust, heat and cor-rugations with grace, good humour and lashings of ginger Matsos.

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BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Donna WheelerLove and gratitude to Juliette Claire for her inspi-ration and incredible regional knowledge. Thanks to ex-locals Peter Maclaine and Debbie Wheeler, especially for Pete’s surfing expertise. Thanks to Harry in Broadbeach, to the Byron skydivers and to Amanda and Simon in Brunswick Heads for great hospo insights. Thanks also to Nic Wrathall for your company during some long research days and Brigid Healy and Andrew King, Kate Dale, Darryn Devlin for Sydney homecoming love. Finally thanks to Joe Guario. for everything.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Sydney Trains Network and Sydney Ferries Network maps © Transport for NSW 2017. Train and ferry maps courtesy of Transport for NSW. Maps current at time of printing.Photograph p12, bottom: image courtesy of MONA Museum of Old and New Art, Hobart, Tasmania, Australia. Photographs p20, bottom, and page 60, top right: images courtesy of Tourism NT, Australia.Illustration pp72-3 by Javier Zarracina.Cover photograph: Aerial image photographed near Broome in Western Australia, shannonstent/Getty.

THIS BOOKThis 19th edition of Lonely Planet’s Australia guidebook was researched and written by Brett Atkinson, Anthony Ham, Paul Harding, Kate Morgan, Charles Rawlings-Way, Andy Symington, Kate Armstrong, Carolyn Bain, Cristian Bonetto, Peter Dragicevich, Trent Holden, Virginia Maxwell, Ta-mara Sheward, Tom Spurling, Benedict Walker, Steve Waters and Donna Wheeler. We would also like to thank the following people for their contributions to this guide: Dr Michael Cath-cart, Cathy Craigie, Dr Tim

Flannery and Dr Janelle White. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Tasmin WabyProduct Editors Vicky Smith, Catherine NaghtenSenior Cartographer Julie SheridanBook Designer Nicholas ColicchiaAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Andrew Bain, Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Bridget Blair, Laura Crawford, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Bruce Evans, Victoria Harrison, Gabrielle Innes, Ali

Lemer, Jodie Martire, Rosie Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Susan Paterson, Chris Pitts, Saralinda Turner, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to William Allen, Jennifer Carey, Hannah Cartmel, Heather Champion, Daniel Corbett, Megan Eaves, Shona Gray, Sandie Kestell, Anne Mason, Kate Mathews, MaSovaida Morgan, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Jessica Ryan, Ross Taylor, Amanda Williamson, Clifton Wilkinson

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1081

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAboriginal art 18, 861, 1012,

1032-3, 18, 20 Aboriginal Australians 1016-

17, 1026, 1031-4, see also Aboriginal history, Aboriginal culture

Aboriginal culture 27, 860-1, 1031-4, see also Aboriginal art

Aboriginal cultural centres, see also art galleries

Araluen Cultural Precinct 851

Djilpin Arts 832Dreamtime Cultural

Centre 356Ghunmarn Culture Centre

24, 843Godinymayin Yijard Rivers

Arts & Culture Centre 832

Injalak Arts & Crafts Centre 830

Jellurgal Cultural Centre 317

Katoomba 147Koorie Heritage Trust 464Krowathunkoolong

Keeping Place 592Mowanjum Art & Culture

Centre 1006-7Nagula Jarndu Women’s

Resource Centre 993Narana Aboriginal Cultural

Centre 543Tjapukai Aboriginal

Cultural Park 393Top Didj Cultural Experi-

ence & Art Gallery 832Townsville 378Walyalup Aboriginal

Cultural Centre 906Wardan Aboriginal

Centre 933

Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre 827

Aboriginal cultural festivals 861, 860-1

Barunga Festival 836, 861Garma Festival 831Kullarri Naidoc Week 997Laura Aboriginal Dance

Festival 435Mahbilil Festival 825Merrepen Arts Festival

820Stone Country Festival

830Tjungu Festival 873Walking With Spirits 843

Aboriginal cultural tours 860

Adelaide 722Arnhem Land 828-9Ballina 183Beagle Bay 1001Broome 997Bunbury 927Bungle Bungle Range

1014Byron Bay 187Cape Leveque 1002Cooktown 430Darwin 802Denmark 947Derby 1004Fremantle 907Geikie (Darngku) Gorge

1006Gibb River Road 1006Great Northern Highway

1009Gunbalanya (Oenpelli)

830Ingham 385Kakadu National Park 823Karratha 986Katharine 832Lombadina 1002Mary River 815

Melbourne 480Monkey Mia 969Mungo National Park 216Nitmiluk (Katharine

Gorge) National Park 836

Perth 886Tiwi Islands 812Tully 386-7Uluru-Kata Tjuta National

Park 872Yulara 872

Aboriginal history 632-3, 933, 1018-19, 1021, 1026, 1030

Abrolhos the 963abseiling, see rock climbing

& abseilingaccessible travel 1063accommodation 24, 1052-4,

see also individual locations

ACT 62, 252-66, 253activities 53-7, 59, see also

individual activities, locations

Adelaide 715-38, 720-1, 724-5, 730-1, 35

accommodation 714, 725-8activities 720-2children, travel with 723climate 714drinking & nightlife 732-3emergencies 735entertainment 734festivals & events 723-5food 714, 728-32internet access 736itineraries 718media 736medical services 736money 736postal services 736shopping 735sights 715-19tourist information 736

tours 722-3travel to/from 736travel within 737-8

Adelaide Hills 738-43, 739Adelaide Oval 24Adnyamathanha people 789adventure tours 27

Blue Mountains 143Coral Bay 973-6Denham 968Derby 1004Gibb River Road 1006Grampians 580Great Sand National Park:

Cooloola Section 335Jindabyne 241 Jurien Bay 925Kalbarri 964-5Kangaroo Island 752-3Kangaroo Valley 223Karijini National Park 991Phillip Island 536Port Lincoln 782Snowy River National

Park 594 Tasmania 634Whitsundays 362Wollongong 220

AFL 1047, 31Agnes Water 351-5air travel, see also scenic

flightsairlines 1067, 1068 airports 1067to/from Austalia 1067within Australia 1068

Aireys Inlet 551-2Airlie Beach 365-70, 366Albany 24, 949-53, 950Albury 244-6alchohol restrictions 434Alice Springs 45, 850-62,

852-3, 856accommodation 855-7activities 853-4

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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1082

IND

EX A-B

Alice Springs continueddrinking & nightlife 858entertainment 858festivals & events 854-5food 857-8medical services 859safety 859shopping 858-9sights 850-2tourist information 859tours 854travel to/from 859travel within 862

American River 755amusement parks

Adventure World 886Big Banana 177Dreamworld 315Luna Park (Melbourne)

477 Luna Park (Sydney) 96Movie World 315Sea World 315Wet’n’Wild (Gold Coast)

315Wet’n’Wild (Sydney) 100WhiteWater World 315

Angaston 763-4Anglesea 550-1Angourie 181-3animals 15, 404, 1036-8,

see also individual species

Antechinus 864Anzac Day 1026apartments 1053Apollo Bay 554-6aquariums

Aquarium of Western Australia 879, 882

Aquascene 797Cairns Aquarium 392Manly Sea Life

Sanctuary 97-8Marineland Crocodile

Park 411Merimbula Aquarium 235National Zoo &

Aquariums 256Ocean Park 967Reef HQ Aquarium 377Reef World 337Sea Life (Melbourne)

465Sea Life Sunshine Coast

331

Seahorse World 688Solitary Islands

Aquarium 177Sydney Sea Life

Aquarium 82area codes 1062Armidale 198-9Arnhem Highway 813-16Arnhem Land 20,

828-32, 20art galleries 27, see also

Aboriginal cultural centres

Aboriginal Cultural Centre & Keeping Place 198

Alcaston Gallery 468Araluen Arts Centre 851Art Gallery of Ballarat

566Art Gallery of NSW 75Art Gallery of South

Australia 715Art Gallery of Western

Australia 879Australian Centre for

Contemporary Art 466Australian Galleries 469Backwoods Gallery 468Bendigo Art Gallery 571Boom Gallery 543Brett Whiteley Studio 85Broken Hill Regional Art

Gallery 212Buku Larrnggay Mulka

Art Centre & Museum 831

Bunbury Regional Art Galleries 926-7

Cairns 393Caloundra Regional

Gallery 329Calyx 70Castlemaine Art Gallery

& Historical Museum 576-7

Celia Rosser Gallery 585Centre for Contemporary

Photography 468Convent Gallery 528Courthouse Gallery 988Devonport Regional

Gallery 693Fremantle Arts Centre

906Gallery of Modern Art

(GOMA) 271, 274Geelong Art Gallery 539Geraldton Regional Art

Gallery 959

Gertrude Contemporary Art Space 468

Godinymayin Yijard Rivers Arts & Culture Centre 832

Heide Museum of Modern Art 473

Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia 456-7

Justin Art House Museum 476

Kimberleys, the 1012Linden New Art 477MAMA 245Mason Gallery 797Mbantua Fine Art Gallery

809, 861MONA 12, 639-40, 12Mornington Peninsula

Regional Gallery 532Mulgara Gallery 872Murray Bridge Regional

Gallery 767Museum & Art Gallery of

the Northern Territory 801

Museum of Contemporary Art 75

National Gallery of Australia 254

National Portrait Gallery 254

Newcastle Art Gallery 158

Ngukurr Arts Centre 844NGV International 466Norval Gallery 1003Nyinkka Nyunyu 847Perth Institute of

Contemporary Arts (PICA) 882

Powerhouse Geelong City Precinct 539-42

Pro Hart Gallery 212Qdos Art Gallery 552Queen Victoria Art

Gallery 680 Queenscliff Gallery 545Queensland Art Gallery

274Riddoch Art Gallery 776Rockhampton Art Gallery

356-7TarraWarra Museum of

Art 524Tasmanian Museum &

Art Gallery 637Top Didj Cultural Experi-

ence & Art Gallery 832Wagga Wagga Art Gallery

246

Waralungku Arts Centre 845

Waringarri Aboriginal Arts Centre 1011

White Rabbit 97Wintjiri Arts & Museum

872Atherton 417Atherton Tablelands 398,

414-18ATMs 1059Auburn 764-5Augusta 939-41Australia Day 28, 67, 1020Australia Zoo 329Australian Capital Territory

(ACT) 62, 252-66, 253Australian Museum 85Australian National

Maritime Museum 77Australian Open 28, 480,

1048Australian Parliament

House 254-6Australian Rules football

1047Australian War Memorial

254automobile clubs 1071Avoca 150Avon Valley 921-2Ayers Rock, see UluruAyton 429

BBabinda Boulders 392Ballarat 566-71, 568Ballina 183-4Bamaga 437B&Bs 1052bandicoots 823Bangalow 191-2bank accounts 1059Barcaldine 450Barkly Tableland 843Barmera 769-70Barossa Valley 16, 759-64,

761, 16Batavia Coast 959-66Batchelor 817-18Batemans Bay 230-1bathrooms 1062Bathurst 202-4Bathurst Island 813Bay of Fires 676-7beaches 25, 514-15

Avalon 99Basin, the 912Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

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1083IN

DEX B

Batemans Bay 230Bay of Fires 676Bells Beach 549, 541Bill’s Bay 973Boat Harbour

Beach 701Bondi Beach 87, 10,

79, 92-3Bronte Beach 87, 94Broome 1003Bundegi Beach 981Bunker Bay 931-2Burleigh Heads 316-18Byron Bay 185Cable Beach 992, 999Caloundra 328Camp Cove 94, 93Cape Tribulation 425Clovelly Beach 90Coffs Harbour 177Coogee Beach 90Coolangatta 319Cooloola Coast 335Coolum 334Cottesloe Beach 882Cow Bay Beach 424Darwin 802Dunk Island 391Ellis Beach 414Emu Beach 951Frankland Islands 411Friendly Beaches 672Garie Beach 218Geelong 539Gulf St Vincent 746-7Hamilton Island 373Magnetic Island 382Mahon Pool 92, 91Main Beach 313-15Mandalay Beach 945Manly Beach 97McLean Beach 248Middleton Beach 951Mildura 619Mooloolaba 331-4Ned’s Beach

(Lord Howe Island) 249

Newcastle 159Nielsen Park 95Ninety Mile Beach

591Noosa 323, 59North Beach (Lord

Howe Island) 249North Beach

(Wollongong) 218Ocean Beach 707

Palm Beach (Gold Coast) 318-19

Palm Beach (Sydney) 99Palm Cove 413Peregian 334Port Campbell National

Park 558Rainbow Beach 342safety 1051, 1057-8Scarborough Beach

883Seal Rocks 166Seven Mile Beach

(Kiama) 222Seven Mile Beach

(Lennox Head) 184Shelly Beach 97Snelling Beach 757St Kilda Foreshore 477Store Beach 99Surfers Paradise 311Sydney 91-4Tamarama Beach

104, 93Torquay 548Trinity Beach 412-13Wagga Beach 246Wattamolla Beach 217Whale Beach 99Whitsundays 371-4Wilsons Promontory

National Park 586Wollongong City Beach

218Beaconsfield 688Beagle Bay 1001Beauty Point 688Bedourie 452Beechworth 604-7beer 732, 1046, see also

breweriesBellarine Peninsula 545-7Bellingen 173-6Bells Beach 549, 541Bells Line of Road 147Ben Boyd National Park

237-8Ben Lomond National

Park 691-2Bendigo 571-5, 573Bennelong 1021Bermagui 234Berri 771Berrima 239Berry 224-5Berry Springs 816-17Beswick 843Bicheno 673-5bicycle travel, see cycling

Big Banana 177Big Pineapple 331Big Prawn 183Bigsound Festival 279bike riding, see cyclingBinalong Bay 676birds 1040

cassowaries 390red-tailed tropicbirds

932Birdsville 452Birdsville Track 51, 795birdwatching 166-7, 1041

Arnhem Highway 813Bicheno 674Burnie 701Cairns 393, 396Caranbirini

Conservation Reserve 846

Darwin 803Kingscote 756Lord Howe

Island 249-50Low Head (Tamar

Valley) 689Mareeba 416 Rockingham 918

Birdwood 742Black Point 779Black Saturday 527, 1038Blackall Range 337Blackheath 149-50Blinman 790Bloomfield Track 429Blowhole 663Blue Lake 775-6Blue Mountains

142-50, 144Blue Mountains National

Park 150Boat Harbour Beach 701boat tours & cruises 403

Adelaide River 813-14Airlie Beach 367 Albany 951Brisbane 278Cape Range National

Park 985Coral Bay 973-6Darwin 802D’Entrecasteaux National

Park 943Echuca 625, 628Esperance 957Fremantle 907Great Barrier Reef 397Goolwa 749-50

Hinchinbrook Island 386Houtman Abrolhos

Islands 963Jervis Bay 227Kakadu 823Kangaroo Island 756Katherine Gorge 836Lakes Entrance 592Mallacoota 597Mary River 815Melbourne 477-9Metung 591Mildura 620, 621Mooloolaba 332Narooma 232Nelson 565Ningaloo Coast 973Pemberton 943Perth 886Pine Creek 823Port Douglas 419-21Port Lincoln 782Rottnest Island 915Strahan 707Sydney 105-6Victor Harbour 748Walpole 945 Whitsundays 370, 371

boat travel, see also boat tours & cruises

to/from Australia 1067within Australia 1069

Bondi 87, 90, 10, 92-3, 103

Bondi to Coogee Clifftop Walk 104

Booderee National Park 228

Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park 443

books 1016Aboriginal writers 1034history 1019, 1020, 1022,

1024Boreen Point 336Borroloola 845-6Boulia 451-2Bourke 211Bowen 375Bowral 238-9Bradman, Donald 238, 719,

1024, 1027Brae 554Brampton Island 374breweries 24

Black Hops Brewing 318Boag’s Brewery 680Brouhaha Brewery 337

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1084

IND

EX B-C

breweries continuedBurleigh Brewing

Company 318Cascade Brewery 639Catchment Brewing

Co 294Coopers Brewery 719Goodieson Brewery 744Granite Belt

Brewery 308Green Beacon

Brewing Co 296Hunter Beer Co 152Kangaroo Island

Brewery 755Margaret River 932,

936, 939Newstead Brewing

Co 296Pagan Cider 658Prancing Pony 742Robe Town Brewery 773Steam Exchange

Brewery 749Two Metre Tall 653-4XXXX 278

Bribie Island 327-8bridge climbing

Brisbane 277Sydney 106

Bridgetown 942Bright 613-14Brisbane 270-303, 272-3,

280-1, 286, 290, 2, 35accommodation

267, 281-4activities 277-8art galleries 276courses 278drinking & nightlife

293-7entertainment 297-9festivals & events 278-81food 267, 284-93LGBTIQ travellers 294shopping 299-301sights 270-7tourist information 301tours 278travel to/from 301-2travel within 302-3

Brisbane Powerhouse 275, 298

Broadbeach 315-16Broken Hill 18, 211-15,

213, 18

Broken River 376Broome 17, 992-1001,996,

999, 17accommodation 998activities 993drinking &

entertainment 1000festivals & events 997food 998-1000shopping 1000sights 992-3tourist information 1000tours 993-7travel to/from 1000-1travel within 1001-2

Bruny Island 655-7Buchan 593-4Buchan Caves 593-4budget 23buffaloes 823Bunbury 926-9Bundaberg 344-6Bungle Bungle Range

1013-14bungy jumping 396Burke & Wills Camp 119

442Burke, Robert O’Hara 1022Burketown 442-3Burleigh Heads 317, 316-18Burnie 700-2bus tours 1070bus travel 1069-70, 1070bush tucker 1046bushfires 527, 1038, 1051bushwalking 53-5, see also

walkingAlice Springs 853, 854Bay of Fires Lodge

Walk 676best trails 55Bibbulmun Track 951Blue Mountains 148Cape to Cape Track 932Cape Tribulation 427Cradle Mountain 710Cradle Valley 709-10Cynthia Bay 710Denmark 946environmental issues 54Flinders Island 678Flinders Ranges National

Park 789Fraser Island 348Freycinet Experience

Walk 672Great Ocean Walk 556Great South West Walk

565

Jatbula Trail 836-7Kalbarri National Park

965-6Kangaroo Island

Wilderness Trail 759Karijini National Park

991Kata Tjuta 877Katherine Gorge 836-7Lamington National Park

321-3Larapinta Trail 855Lurujarri Dreaming

Trail 997Maria Island Walk 670Moreton Island 306Mt Jerusalem 699Mt Kosciuszko 242Mt Sorrow Ridge Walk

427 Murray River 772Nourlangie 826-7Overland Track 710Pemberton 943Porongurup National

Park 953safety 54-5South Coast Track

(Tasmania) 661South Coast Walk

(Victoria) 549Southwest National

Park 713Stirling Range National

Park 955Tarkine Wilderness 705Tasmanian Trail 635Ubirr 824-5Uluru 876-7Wilsons Promontory

National Park 589Wineglass Bay Walk 673

business hours 23, 1060Busselton 929-30Butterfly Bay 371Byfield 359Byron Bay 14, 185-91,

186-7, 14

CCairns 392-411, 394-5,

400-1, 402accommodation 405-6activities 395-6drinking & nightlife

408-9entertainment 409festivals & events 405food 406-8

galleries 393shopping 409sights 392-3tourist information 409tours 397-9travel to/from 409-10travel within 410-11

Cairns region 412Caloundra 328-31Camel Cup 855camel riding

Alice Springs 853Broome 993-4, 17 Uluru 872

Camp Cove 94, 93Campbell Town 668camping 24, 43, 1052-3camps 1054Canberra 62, 254-65,

255, 258accommodation 252,

260-1activities 257children, travel with 264climate 252drinking & nightlife

263-4entertainment 264festivals & events 259food 252, 261-3medical services 264shopping 264sights 254-7tourist information 264tours 257travel to/from 265travel within 265

canoeing, see kayaking & canoeing

canopy activitiesDaintree, the 427Finch Hatton Gorge 376Hollybank Treetops

Adventure 689Otways 557Tamborine Moutain 321Tarkine Wilderness 705Valley of the Giants

944-5Cape Bridgewater 564Cape Leveque 1002-3Cape Naturaliste 931-2Cape Nelson Lighthouse

566Cape Otway 556-7, 541Cape Range National Park

984-5Cape Tribulation 398,

425-9, 426Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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1085IN

DEX C

-D Cape York Peninsula 431-9,

432-3Capricorn Caves 357Capricorn Coast 351-62,

352-3Capricorn hinterland 361-2car travel 1070-7, 1071,

1072, 1073automobile clubs 1071buying a car 1074-7environmental issues

1071-2hire 1073-4insurance 1074outback, the 50safety 1072-3

cassowaries 390carbon offset 1074Cardwell 386Carnarvon 970-1Carnarvon Gorge 361-2Carpentaria 844-5Castlemaine 576-8cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCatseye Beach 371caves

Buchan Caves 593-4Capricorn Caves 357Cave Gardens 776Cutta Cutta Caves

Nature Park 837Jenolan Caves 152Hastings Caves &

Thermal Springs 660Mimbi Caves 1009Naracoorte Caves

National Park 775Ngilgi Cave 933, 4Remarkable Cave 665Yarrangobilly

Caves 242Ceduna 784-5cell phones 22, 1062Central Tilba 233Cervantes 923-4Chalkies Beach 371Charleville 450-1Charters Towers 384, 444Childers 344children, travel with 1054-5

Adelaide 723Canberra 264Fremantle 906Hobart 641Perth 886Sydney 104

Chiltern 608-9

Chinatowns 1024Adelaide 728Brisbane 275 Broome 997, 998 Melbourne 460-1, 481 Sydney 77, 107, 114, 115

churches & cathedralsCathedral of St Frances

Xavier Church 959Catholic Church of St

Peter & St Paul 792Sacred Heart Cathedral

572St John’s Cathedral 271St Patrick’s Cathedral

465St Paul’s Cathedral 457

Churchill Island 536Clare 766-7Clare Valley 764-7, 26climate 22, 28-31, 44-5,

1035, see also individual locations

climbing, see rock climbing & abseiling

Cloncurry 444clownfish 400 Cobourg Peninsula 830-1Cockatoo Island 90Cockle Creek 661Coen 435coffee 1045-6Coffin Bay 783Coffs Harbour 177-80, 178Coles Bay 672-3conservation groups 1039Coober Pedy 792-4, 793Cooinda 827-8Cook, Captain James 328,

351, 429, 430, 1019cooking courses

Angaston 763 Bright 613 Brisbane 278 Margaret River 935, 936 Melbourne 473, 476, 481 Sydney 84, 107 Tasmania 654, 691

Cooktown 429-31Coolangatta 319-20Cooloola Coast 335-7Coolum 334-5Cooma 240-1Coonabarabran 200-1Coonawarra Wine Region

777-8Copley 790-1coral 982

Coral Bay 973-6coral spawning 397Corinna 705costs 23courses, see also cooking

coursesdiving 43, 398

Cow Bay 424-5Cowaramup 935-7Cowes 537-8Cowra 206-7Cradle Mountain-Lake St

Clair National Park 17, 709-12, 17

Craig’s Hut 599Crater Lakes National

Park 418credit cards 1059Crescent Head 171cricket 238, 719, 1027,

1047-8crocodiles 318, 367, 411,

414, 425, 441, 813, 814, 823, 1050

Crowdy Head 167Croydon 440cruises, see boat tours &

cruisesCumberland Islands 374-5currency 1059Currumbin 318-19customs regulations 1055cycling 55, 1068-9

Byron Bay 186Merimbula 235outback, the 46Sydney 100, 106Yamba 182

cyclones 368, 1061Cygnet 657-8

DD’Aguilar National Park

271, 58Daintree, the 15, 424-9,

15, 58Daly River 819-20Daly Waters 846-7Dampier 987-8Dampier Peninsula 1001-3Dandenongs 522-3dangers, see safetyDarwin 45-6, 797-812,

800, 804-5accommodation 803-7activities 802climate 796drinking & nightlife 809

entertainment 809festivals & events 803food 807-9history 801 internet access 810medical services 810safety 810shopping 809-12sights 797-802tourist information 811tours 802-3travel to/from 811travel within 812

Dawes, William 1019Daydream Island 373Daylesford 528-30debit cards 1059Deepwater National Park

355Deloraine 695-8dengue fever 1051Denham 967-9Deniliquin 248-9Denmark 946-9Derby (Tasmania) 677-8Derby (WA) 1003-5Devil’s Kitchen 663Devil’s Marbles 849Devonian Reef National

Parks 1005-6Devonport 692-4diarrhoea 1058didgeridoos 910, 1033, 861dingoes 350, 823, 864Dinner Plain 617-19Dinosaur Trail 448disabilities, travellers with

1063discount cards 1055distilleries

Bundaberg Rum Distillery 345

Hellyers Road Distillery 700-1

Kangaroo Island Spirits 755-6

Nant Distillery 666-7Redlands Distillery 666Sullivans Cove Whisky

652Twenty Third Street

Distillery 771-2diving & snorkelling 56,

400, 883Adelaide 722Broome 993Broughton Island 166Byron Bay 186-7

Page 9: Behind the Scenes - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/australia-19-index.pdf · BEHIND THE SCENES Donna Wheeler Love and gratitude to Juliette Claire for her inspi-ration

1086

IND

EX D-F

diving & snorkelling continued

Cairns 411Cape Conran Coastal

Park 596Coffs Harbour 179courses 43, 398Esperance 957Exmouth 978-9Flinders Island 678-9Frankland Islands 411Geographe Bay 931Geraldton 961Great Barrier Reef 11,

40-3, 397, 399-404, 427, 11, 41, 403

Heron Island 356Houtman Abrolhos

Islands 963Jervis Bay 226-7Jurien Bay 925King Island 704Lady Elliot Island 355Magnetic Island 383Maria Island National

Park 670Merimbula 235Mooloolaba 331Narooma 232Ningaloo Coast 973-4,

975-6Ningaloo Marine

Park 983-4North Stradbroke

Island 304Perth 883Port Douglas 419, 420Portsea 531Queenscliff 545-6Rainbow Beach 342Rockingham 918Rottnest Island 913Sorrento 531Sydney 100Whitsundays 370-1wrecks 383

dolphins 57, 545dolphin-watching 57

Adelaide 722, 733Bellarine Peninsula 545Bunbury 926Eden 236Esperence 957Hervey Bay 338Jervis Bay 227

Kangaroo Island 750, 753, 756

Mandurah 919Merimbula 235Monkey Mia 969Moreton Island 306 Mornington Peninsula

531 Rockingham 918

Dorrigo 176-7Dorrigo National Park 176Dover 660Dreaming 1034driving, see car travel driving licences 1071driving tours

Alice Springs 854Bathurst to Gulgong

203, 203Caloundra 329Coober Pedy 792-3Daintree, the 427Esperance 957Great Northern Highway

1009Kimberley, the 1006Mungo Track 216Noosa 323-4

Dubbo 207-8Dudley Peninsula 754-5Dunalley 662Duncan Road 1011Dunk Island 391Dunkeld 582Dunsborough 930-1Duranbah 317DVDs 1054Dwellingup 920

EEaglehawk Neck 662-4Echuca 624-8, 626economy 1017Eden 236-7Einasleigh 440electricity 1056Elizabeth Quay 24Ellery Creek Big Hole 864Ellis Beach 414emergencies 23Emily Gap 863encephalitis 1051Endeavour 1019environment 1031-2,

1035-42environmental issues

1038-40bushwalking 54

car travel 1071carbon offset 1074 Great Barrier Reef 40,

1036Esperance 956-8Eumundi 336Eureka Stockade 570,

1023-4Eurimbula National

Park 355Eurobodalla Coast 229-33Evandale 691events, see festivals &

eventsEwaninga 866exchange rates 23Exmouth 976-80, 977Eyre Peninsula 781-5

FFalls Creek 616-17farmstays 1053Ferris wheels 275festivals & events 28-31,

1056, see also individ-ual locations, Aborig-inal cultural festivals, film festivals, food & wine festivals, LGBTIQ festivals, literary fes-tivals, music festivals, sporting events

Adelaide Cabaret Festival 723

Adelaide Festival 723Adelaide Fringe 723Alice Desert Festival 855Alice Springs Beanie

Festival 854Biennale of Sydney 107Bleach Festival 311Blessing of the Fleet 907Bowral Tulip Time

Festival 239Brisbane Comedy

Festival 279Brisbane Festival 279Brisbane Street Art

Festival 278-9Canberra Balloon

Spectacular 259Chinese New Year

(Melbourne) 481Chinese New Year

(Sydney) 107Coolangatta Gold 319Dark MOFO 643Darwin Aboriginal Art

Fair 803Darwin Festival 803

Darwin Fringe Festival 803Deniliquin Ute

Muster 248‘Ekka’ Royal Queensland

Show 279Enlighten 259Fremantle Festival 907Kings Park Festival 887Melbourne International

Comedy Festival 481MONA FOMA 643National Multicultural

Festival 259New Year’s Eve 107Oktoberfest 279Ord Valley Muster 1012Perth International Arts

Festival 886-7Port Douglas Carnivale

421Red Earth Arts Festival

986Rottofest 916Shinju Matsuri Festival of

the Pearl 997South Australian Wooden

Boat Festival 750Sydney Festival 107Townsville 500 379Tunarama Festival 783Vesak Festival of Light

572-3Whale Festival 236White Night Ballarat 567Yulefest 144

film 1034, 1016film festivals

Brisbane Asia Pacific Film Festival 281

CinéfestOZ 929Queer Film Festival 294Sydney Film Festival 107Tropfest 107

film locationsAustralia 375Crocodile Dundee 447Saving Mr Banks 343

Finch Hatton Gorge 376Finke Gorge National

Park 866Finke Track 52Fish Creek 584-6fishing 56-7

Borroloola 845Cairns 405Cape York Peninsula

437, 438Cobourg Peninsula 831Daly River 820Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

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1087IN

DEX F-G

Denamrk 946Exmouth 977Flinders Island 679Jurien Bay 925Kangaroo Island 752Karumba 441, 441-2King Island 704Lake Tinaroo 418Merimbula 235St Helens 675Warrnambool 560Weipa 436

Fitzgerald River National Park 952, 956

Fitzroy Crossing 1009-10Fitzroy Falls 223Fitzroy Island 411Flannery, Tim 1035Fleurieu Peninsula 743-50,

743Flinders Chase National

Park 758-9Flinders Island 678-9Flinders Ranges 785-91, 786Flinders Ranges National

Park 788-90, 26flora 925, 1038floral emblems 1037food 59, 1043-6, see also

individual locations cooking courses, food & wine festivals, food & wine tours

budgeting 1056bush tucker 1046 children, eating with

1055magazines 1046markets 289trucks 289venues 1043-6

food & wine festivalsA Taste of Broome 997Barossa Gourmet

Weekend 760Barossa Vintage

Festival 760Canberra District Wine

Week 266Clare Valley Gourmet

Weekend 764Crush 738Esk BeerFest 683Feast of the Senses 392F.O.O.D Week 204Good Food Month 107Hobart BeerFest 643Margaret River Gourmet

Escape 933

Melbourne Food & Wine Festival 481

Mudgee Wine Festival 209

Noosa Food & Wine 324Orange Wine Festival

204Oysterfest 784Riverland Wine & Food

Festival 771Sawtell Chilli Festival 179Sea & Vines Festival 745Taste of Tasmania 642Tastes of Rutherglen 609Tasting Australia 723UnWINEd 247Winery Walkabout

Weekend 609Winter Reds 738

food & wine toursAdelaide 715Barossa Valley 760Clare Valley 764Denmark 947Hunter Valley 154Margaret River wine

region 932McLaren Vale 744-5Mudgee 209Orange 204Perth 886Rutherglen 609Tamar Valley 686

footballAustralian Rules 1047, 31soccer 1048women’s 1047

Forrest 555Forster 167Fowlers Bay 785Frankland Islands 411Franklin-Gordon Wild

Rivers National Park 708-9

Fraser Coast 337-51Fraser Island 21, 338, 346-

51, 347, 21Fremantle 903-11, 904,

913accommodation 907-8beaches 906-7children, travel with 906drinking & nightlife

909-10entertainment 910festivals & events 907food 908-9internet access 911itineraries 883

parks 906-7shopping 910-11sights 903, 905-6tourist information 911tours 907travel to/from 911travel within 911

Freycinet National Park 672-3

fuel 1072fur seals 564

GGabba, the 298Gabo Island 596galleries, see art galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardensGariwerd 578-82, 579Gascoyne Coast 970-2gay travellers 1056

Brisbane 294Melbourne 510Perth 897Sydney 132

Geelong 538-45, 542Geeveston 659-60gem fields 361Geographe Bay 926-32geology 1036George Town (Tasmania)

688-9Georgetown (Queensland)

440Geraldton 959-62, 960Ghan, the 21, 24, 21ghost tours

Adelaide 722-3Beechworth 605-6Brisbane 278Geelong 543-4Hobart 636Melbourne 543Port Arthur 665Sydney 106Walhalla 590

Ghunmarn Culture Centre 24, 843

giardiasis 1051Gibb River Road 1006-8Gippsland 584-98, 584-5Gippsland Lakes 591-3Gladstone 355Glass House Mountains 328Glen Helen Gorge 864Gold Coast 309-21, 310

surfing spots 317

theme parks 315travel to/from 309travel within 309-10

Gold Coast hinterland 320-3

goldfields 566-82golfing

Anglesea 550Oatlands 667Port Douglas 419 Yorkeys Knob 411 Weipa 436

GOMA 271, 274Goolwa 749-50gorges

Barramundi Gorge (Maguk) 828

Carnarvon Gorge 361Cataract Gorge 680Charles Knife Canyon

985Dales Gorge 990Finch Hatton Gorge 376Geikie Gorge 1005Hamersley Gorge 990Kalbarri 966Karijini National Park

990-1Katherine Gorge 836-8MacDonnell Ranges

862-3, 864-5Mandu Mandu Gorge

985 Mossman Gorge 424 Palm Valley 866Purnululu National Park

1014Umbrawarra Gorge 820 Windjana Gorge 1005-6Yardie Creek Gorge985

Gosford 150Grafton 180-1Grampians, the 578-82,

579Granite Belt 308-9Great Australian Bight 785Great Barrier Reef 11, 37-

43, 377, 399-404, 1036, 39, 11, 41, 399-404

access towns 38camping 43islands 38-40responsible tourism 40tours 397travel seasons 37websites 38

Great Keppel Island 360-1Great Northern Highway

1008-11

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1088

IND

EX G-K

Great Ocean Road 13, 538-66, 538, 540-1

Great Stupa of Universal Compassion 572

Green Island 411Greenmount 317Griffith 247-8Gulf Savannah 439-43Gulliver’s Travels 785Gumeracha 741-2Gunbalanya 830Gundagai 244Gunn, Jeannie 842Gympie 344

HHahndorf 738-40Halls Creek 1010-11Halls Gap 578-82Hamilton Island 373-4Hanging Rock 530Harrington 167Hastings Caves 660Hat Head National Park

171-2Hawker 788Hawkesbury River 151Hayman Island 374Head of Bight 785Healesville 524-6health 1056-8, see also

safetyheat exhaustion 1057heatstroke 1057Henbury Meteorite Craters

867Henley-on-Todd Regatta 855hepatitis C 1051Hepburn Springs 528-30Hermannsburg 865-6Heron Island 356Hervey Bay 337-42,

338-9, 57High Country 599-619,

602-3hiking, see bushwalkingHinchinbrook Island 386historic sites

Abbotsford Covent 468Aboriginal Tent Embassy

257Arltunga Historical

Reserve 862Battery Hill (Port Fairy)

562

Battery Point (Hobart) 637-9

Beechworth Asylum 605Brickendon 690Busselton Jetty 929Cascades Female

Factory Historic Site 639

Central Deborah Goldmine 572

Coal Mines Historic Site 663

Cooks’ Cottage 466-8Corroboree Rock

Conservation Reserve 863

Darlington 670Flagstaff Hill Maritime

Village 560Fort Queenscliff 545Heritage Blinman Mine

790Hermannsburg Mission

865Myilly Point Heritage

Precinct 797Ngilgi Cave 933Old Beechworth Gaol

605Old Melbourne Gaol 461Old Mildura Homestead

619Old Psyche Bend Pump

Station 619Penitentiary Chapel

Historic Site 636Port Arthur Historic Site

664-5Quod 912Ross Female Factory 667Salamanca Place 636Sovereign Hill 566Victoria Hills Historic

Mining Site 572Woolmers Estate 690WWII Flying Boat Wrecks

993Wybalenna Historic

Site 678history 1018-30

Aboriginal Australians 632-3, 933, 1018-19, 1021, 1026, 1030

convict period 1020-3Eureka Stockade 570,

1023-4federation 1025gold rush 1023-4WWI 1025-6WWII 1027-8

hitching 1077

Hobart 636-52, 638, 642-3

accommodation 629, 643-6

activities 640children, travel with 641climate 629drinking & nightlife

648-50emergencies 651entertainment 650festivals & events 641-3food 629, 646-8internet access 651itineraries 637medical services 651money 651postal services 651shopping 650-1sights 636-40tourist information 651tours 640-1travel to/from 651-2travel within 652

holiday parks 1052-3holidays 1060-1Hook Island 372-3horizontal waterfalls 1004Horn Island 438-9horse riding

Coffs Harbour 178Daintree, the 428Hervey Bay 339Kiewa Valley 615Kununurra 1011Mansfield 599Snowy Mountains 240

horses, wild 823Horseshoe Bay 748Horsham 582hostels 1053-4hot-air ballooning

Brisbane 277-8Byron Bay 186Cairns 397, 398 Canberra 257, 259Hunter Valley 152Surfers Paradise 311 Yarra Valley 523-4

hotels 1054houseboats 769Houtman Abrolhos Islands

963humpback whales 29, 57,

340, 984, 1041, 57Hunter Valley 151-7, 153Huonville 658-9Hutt Lagoon 962

Hyde Park 77Hyden 920-1hypothermia 1051

IIkara 788, 789Imintji 1006-7Ingham 385-6Innisfail 391-2insurance

car 1074health 1056, 1058 travel 1058

internet access 1058internet resources,

see websitesislands 25itineraries 32-6, 32, 33,

34, 36

JJabiru 825-6James Price Point 1003Jan Juc 549jellyfish 1050Jenolan Caves 152Jervis Bay 226-7Jindabyne 241Judbarra 841Junee 246Jurien Bay 924-6

KKakadu National Park 15,

45-6, 821-8, 822, 15Kalbarri 962-5, 964Kalbarri National Park 24,

965-6Kalumburu 1008Kanangra-Boyd National

Park 150Kangaroo Island 750-9, 751Kangaroo Valley 222-3kangaroos 1036, 15Karijini National Park

989-92, 990Karratha 986-7Karumba 441-2Kata Tjuta 877, 839, 877,

838Katherine 45-6, 832-6, 833Katherine Gorge 836-40Katoomba 146-9kayaking & canoeing

Ballina 183Batemans Bay 230Berri 771

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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1089IN

DEX K

-M

Blackwood River 941Byron Bay 186Caloundra 329Daintree, the 427Eden 236Exmouth 979Freycinet

Peninsula 672Goolwa 749Gulf St Vincent 747Hobart 640Jervis Bay 226Kangaroo Valley 223Magnetic Island 383Main Beach 314Melbourne 477-9Merimbula 235Mission Beach 388Morning

Peninsula 531Murray River 620,

621, 772Nelson 565Ningaloo Marine

Park 984North Stradbroke

Island 304Paringa 772Pemberton 943Port Stephens 165Tasman Peninsula 66Sydney 100-2 Whitsundays 371Yamba 182

Kennett River 554Keswick Island 374Kiama 221-2Kiewa Valley 614-15Kimberley School of the

Air 1004Kimberley, the 17, 46,

992-1014, 994-5King Island 703-4King Valley 601-4Kings Canyon 870-1,

871, 7Kingscote 755-6Kings Cross 84-5, 88-9Kirra 317koalas 1036-7, 541Koonwarra 584-6Kosciuszko National Park

241-4Kununurra 1008, 1011-13Kuranda 414-16Ku-ring-gai Chase National

Park 102Kwongan wildflowers 925Kyneton 575-6

LLady Elliot Island 355-6Lake Mountain 526-7lakes

Blue Lake (Kaboora) 303Fern Pool 990Lake Burley Griffin 257Lake Cathie 167Lake Cooroibah 335-6Lake Cootharaba 336-7Lake Macquarie 150Lake Mungo 216Lake Pedder 712-13Lake Tinaroo 418Lake Wendouree 567

Lakes Entrance 592-3Lake Tinaroo 418Lamington National Park

321Lancelin 923Langford Island 371languages 1018Larapinta Trail 855Larrimah 848Lasseter Highway 52,

868-70Launceston 679-86, 681,

682accommodation 683-4activities 680drinking & nightlife 685entertainment 685festivals & events 683food 684-5medical services 685shopping 685sights 680tourist information 686tours 680-3travel to/from 686travel within 686

Laura 435lava tubes 439legal matters 1058Legana 687-8Leigh Creek 790-1Lennox Head 184lesbian travellers 1056

Brisbane 294 Melbourne 510 Perth 897Sydney 132

Leura 146LGBTIQ festivals 1056

Brisbane Pride Festival 279

Feast Festival 724Melt 294

Midsumma Festival 481Queer Film Festival 294Sydney Gay & Lesbian

Mardi Gras 107, 132Tropical Fruits 193

LGBTIQ travellers 1056Brisbane 294 Melbourne 510Perth 897 Sydney 130

Lightning Ridge 201Limestone Coast 772-8Lindeman Island 374Lismore 193-4Litchfield National Park

818-19literary festivals

Banjo Patterson Poetry Festival 204

Bellingen Readers & Writers Festival 174

Brisbane Writers Festival 279

Byron Bay Writers’ Festival 187

Corrugated Lines 997Sydney Writers’ Festi-

val 107Little Desert National Park

583-4Lizard Island 428Lobethal 742lodges 1054Lombadina 1002Long Island 371-2Longford 690-1Longreach 449-50Lord Howe Island 249-51Lorne 552-3Low Head 689Loxton 770-1Luhrmann, Baz 375Luna Park (Melbourne) 477Luna Park (Sydney) 96

MMacassans 1020MacDonnell Ranges 862-6,

839Macedon Ranges 530Mackay 362-5, 364Magnetic Island 382-5Main Beach 313-15Malanda 417Maldon 580Maleny 337Mallacoota 596-8Mallee, the 625mammals 1036-7

Man from Snowy River, the 599

Mandurah 918-20Manjimup 942-3Manly 97-9, 105Manly Scenic Walkway 104Mannum 768Mansfield 599-600maps 1058Marble Bar 987Mareeba 416Margaret River 20, 937-9,

934, 938, 20Maria Island National Park

668-70markets

Adelaide Farmers Market 735

Atherton Tablelands 416Bangalow Farmers

Market 192Barossa Farmers Market

764Bellingen Community

Market 176Bellingen Growers’

Market 175-6Bondi Markets 138Brisbane 289, 299,

300, 301Byron Bay Artisan

Market 191Byron Farmers’ Market

191Camberwell Market 512Carriageworks Farmers

Market 137Central Market 715Darwin 810Eumundi Markets 336Farm Gate Market 646Fremantle 906Glebe Markets 137-8Gilles Street Market

735Gourmet Farmers Market

315Hobart Twilight Market

651Kangaroo Island Farmers

Market 754Kuranda 415Mackay 365Margaret River 938-9Mission Beach 391Newcastle City Farmers

& Makers Market 163Old Bus Depot Markets

264Paddington Markets 137

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1090

IND

EX M

markets continuedPaddy’s Markets 138Perth 892Prahran Market 476Queen Victoria Market

461Riverland Farmers

Market 771Rocks Markets, the 138Rose Street Artists’

Market 516Rusty’s Markets 406Salamanca Market 651South Melbourne Market

473St Andrews Community

Market 528St Kilda Esplanade

Market Stirling Markets 741Sydney Fish Market

82, 84Tablelands 416Townsville 381Village Markets 316Willunga Farmers Market

746Maroochydore 331-4Marrawah 703Marree 795Mary Poppins 344Maryborough 343-4Marysville 526-7Mataranka 841-3McLaren Vale 743-5, 60-1measures 1054Melbourne 13, 456-521,

458-9, 462-3, 470, 472, 474, 13, 58-9, 514, 515

accommodation 453, 481-6

activities 477-80climate 453drinking & nightlife

500-8entertainment 508-11food 453, 486-500internet access 519itineraries 456LGBTIQ travellers 510medical services 519postal services 519safety 519shopping 511-18sights 456-77

tourist information 519tours 480travel to/from 519-20travel within 520-1walking tours 467, 467

Melbourne Cup 481memorials & monuments

Anzac Memorial 77Australian War

Memorial 254Big Rocking Horse 742Desert Mounted Corps

Memorial 949Dog on the Tuckerbox

244HMAS Sydney II

Memorial 959Line of Lode Miners

Memorial 212POW Campsite & Guard

Tower 207Shrine of Remembrance

(Brisbane) 271Shrine of Remembrance

(Melbourne) 475-6Meningie 774-5meningococcal disease

1051Mereenie Loop Road 47,

51, 865Merimbula 234-6Metung 591-2migration 1025Milawa Gourmet Region

604Mildura 619-24, 623Millaa Millaa 417Millthorpe 206mining 1023-4min-min lights 451Mintaro 765-6Mittagong 238-9mobile phones 22, 1062Mogo 231Mole Creek 698-9Mollymook 228-9MONA 12, 639-40, 12money 22, 23, 1059-60Monkey Mia 969-70Mooloolaba 331-4Moonta 779Moreton Island 305-6Mornington Peninsula

530-4Moruya 231Mossman 424Mossman Gorge 424motels 1054

motorcycle travel, see car travel

mountain biking 55Adelaide Hills 722Alice Springs 854Bright 613Byron Bay 187Derby 677Falls Creek 616Flinders Ranges 785, 787Forrest 555Kiewa Valley 615Kosciuszko National Park

242, 243Mansfield 599Margaret River 940Mt Beauty 615Noosa 324Tasmania 635, 640, 677,

681, 689Mount Gambier 775-6Mt Barke 742-3Mt Beauty 614-15Mt Buffalo 612-13Mt Buller 600-1Mt Bundy Station 820Mt Connor 869-70Mt Coot-tha 275-6Mt Elizabeth Station

1007-8Mt Field National

Park 653-5Mt Hotham 617-19Mt Isa 444-7, 446Mt Kosciuszko 242Mt Lofty 740Mt Spec 387Mt Surprise 439Mt Wellington 639, 640Mudgee 209-11Mungo National Park

215-17, 620Murray Bridge 767Murray River 619-28,

767-72, 620-1museums 16, see also art

galleriesAbbey Museum 327Albany Heritage Park

949Albany Residency

Museum 950Albury Library Museum

245Apple Shed 658Australian Age of Dino-

saurs Museum 448Australian Centre for the

Moving Image 457

Australian Fossil & Mineral Museum 202

Australian Museum 85Australian National

Maritime Museum 77Australian National

Surfing Museum 548Australian Stockman’s

Hall of Fame & Outback Heritage Centre 449

Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre 211

Bass & Flinders Centre 689

Bass Strait Maritime Centre 692-3

Bay Discovery Centre 719Beaconsfield Mine &

Heritage Centre 688Bicheno Motorcycle

Museum 674Big Golden Guitar 196Bligh Museum of Pacific

Exploration 655-6Borroloola Museum 845Broome Museum 992Burke Museum 605Burnie Regional Museum

700Caboolture Warplane

Museum 328Carnarvon Space &

Technology Museum 970

Chiltern Athenaeum 608Cobb & Co Museum

306-7Country Music Hall of

Fame 196Deloraine Museum 695Discovery Bay 953East Coast Heritage

Museum 671Echuca Historical

Museum 625Fraser Coast Discovery

Sphere 337Furneaux Museum 678Golden Dragon Museum

& Gardens 571Great Aussie Beer Shed

625Great Ocean Road Story

552Gympie Gold Mining &

Historical Museum 344

Hahndorf Academy 739-40

Hellenic Museum 461-4Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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1091IN

DEX M

-N

Hinkler Hall of Aviation 345

Hyde Park Barracks Museum 75

Immigration Museum 464International Cricket Hall

of Fame 238James Cook Museum 429Jewish Holocaust Centre

477Jewish Museum of

Australia 477Kiewa Valley Historical

Museum 614-15Killer Whale

Museum 236King Island Museum 703Kronosaurus Korner 444Lord Howe Island

Museum 249Low Head Maritime

Museum 689Makers’ Workshop 700Mannum Dock Museum

of River History 768Maritime Museum (Port

Macquarie) 168Maritime Museum

(Townsville) 378-9Mary MacKillop

Interpretive Centre 777

Mawson’s Huts Replica Museum 636

Melbourne Museum 469Moonta Mines Museum

779Museo Italiano 469Museum & Art Gallery of

the Northern Territory 801

Museum of Australian Democracy (Canberra) 256

Museum of Australian Democracy at Eureka (Ballarat) 566-7

Museum of Brisbane 270Museum of Central

Australia 851-2Museum of Sydney 76Museum of the Riverina

246Museum of Tropical

Queensland 377National Anzac Centre

949National Capital Exhibi-

tion 257National Holden Museum

625

National Motor Museum 742

National Motor Racing Museum 202

National Museum of Australia 257, 16

National Wool Museum 539

Ned Kelly Vault 605Never Never Museum 842New England Regional

Art Museum 198New Norcia Museum &

Art Gallery 922Newcastle Maritime

Museum 158Newcastle Museum 158Nicholson Museum 97Ningaloo Centre 977North Stradbroke Island

Historical Museum 303-4

Old Castlemaine Gaol 577Old Dubbo Gaol 208Old Timers Mine 792Old Treasury Building

457-628Outback at Isa 445Phoenix Museum 526Pioneer Village Museum

222Port Fairy History Centre

562Port Macquarie

Historical Museum 168Port of Echuca Discovery

Centre 625Post & Telegraph Office

Museum 590Portland Maritime Dis-

covery Centre 564Powerhouse Museum 97Qantas Founders Out-

back Museum 449Queen Victoria Museum

680Queenscliff Maritime

Museum 545Queensland Air Museum

329Queensland Maritime

Museum 275Queensland Museum &

Sciencentre 274Questacon 257RFDS Visitor Centre 208Rocks Discovery

Museum 71Rocky’s Hall of Fame Pio-

neers Museum 769Rottnest Museums 912

Royal Flying Doctor Service (Alice Springs) 851

Royal Flying Doctor Service (Broken Hill) 212

Royal Flying Doctor Service (Darwin) 24, 800

Science Centre & Plane-tarium 219-20

Scitech 886Shark Bay World Herit-

age Discovery Centre 967-8

Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre 240

South Australian Mari-time Museum 719

South Australian Museum 715

South Australian Whale Centre 747

St Helens History Room 675

Susannah Place Museum 75

Sydney Jewish Museum 86-7

Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 637

Tin Centre 677Torres Strait Heritage

Museum 438Trial Bay Gaol 172Umoona Opal Mine &

Museum 792Walhalla Historical

Museum 590Wallaroo Heritage &

Nautical Museum 779West Coast Reflections

707Western Australian

Museum – Albany 950Western Australian

Museum – Geraldton 959

Western Australian Museum – Maritime 905

Western Australian Museum – Shipwreck Galleries 905

Wooden Boat Centre 658music festivals

Agnes Blues & Roots Festival 353

Airlie Beach Music Festival 367

Australian Festival of Chamber Music 379

Bello Winter Music 174Big Pineapple Music

Festival 332Bigsound Festival 279Byron Bay Bluesfest 187Cairns Ukulele

Festival 405Caloundra Music

Festival 329Canberra International

Music Festival 259CMC Rocks Queensland

279Dark MOFO 643Desert Song Festival 855Falls Festival 552, 643Fleurieu Folk Festival 746Gympie Music Muster 344Hats Off to Country 197Katherine Country Music

Muster 834Laneway 907Maroochy Music & Visual

Arts Festival 332MONA FOMA 643National Folk Festival 259Park Sounds 279-81Port Fairy Folk Festival

562Queenscliff Music

Festival 546Queensland Music

Festival 279Rottofest 916South Australian Country

Music Festival 769Southbound 929Splendour in the Grass

187St Jerome’s Laneway

Festival (Melbourne) 480-1

St Jerome’s Laneway Festival (Sydney) 107

Tamworth Country Music Festival 196-7

WOMADelaide 723Woodford Folk Festival

330Myall Lakes National Park

166-8Myella 358Mystery Bay 233

NNambucca Heads 172-3Nannup 941Naracoorte Caves National

Park 775Narooma 231-3

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1092

IND

EX N

Nathan River Road 51National Gallery of

Australia 254National Library of

Australia 256National Museum of

Australia 257, 16national parks & nature

reserves 25-6, 1040-1Alexander Morrison

National Park 925Badgingarra National

Park 925Bald Rock National

Park 199Ben Boyd National Park

237-8Ben Lomond National

Park 691-2Berry Springs Nature

Park 817Big Brook Arboretum

943Blue Mountains National

Park 150Booderee National

Park 228Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill)

National Park 443 Border Ranges National

Park 195Bouddi National Park 150Brisbane Water National

Park 150Broome Bird

Observatory 992Bundjalung National

Park 182Burleigh Head National

Park 316Cape Arid National

Park 958Cape Conran Coastal

Park 595-6Cape Le Grand National

Park 958Cape Range National

Park 984-5Caranbirini Conservation

Reserve 846Carnarvon National Park

361-2Cathedral Rock National

Park 175Charles Darwin National

Park 803Chiltern-Mt Pilot

National Park 608

Coffin Bay National Park 783

Conway National Park 375

Coorong National Park 774-5

Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park 17, 709-12, 17

Crater Lakes National Park 418

Croajingolong National Park 598

Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park 837

D’Aguilar National Park 271

Daintree National Park 15, 424-9, 15, 58

Dampier Archipelago 987Dandenong Ranges

National Park 522Deepwater National

Park 355Devonian Reefs National

Park 1005-6Dirk Hartog National

Park 968Djukbinj National

Park 813Dorrigo National Park 176Dryandra Woodland 922Elsey National Park 841Errinundra National

Park 595Eungella National Park

376Eurimbula National

Park 355Finke Gorge National

Park 866Fitzgerald River National

Park 952, 956Flinders Chase National

Park 758-9 Flinders Ranges National

Park 788-90, 26Fogg Dam Conservation

Reserve 813Francois Peron National

Park 969Franklin-Gordon Wild

Rivers National Park 708-9

Freycinet National Park 672-3

Garig Gunak Barlu National Park 830

Geikie (Darngku) Gorge 1005

Glass House Mountains National Park 328

Grampians National Park 578

Great Sandy National Park 335-7

Gregory National Park 841

Gundabooka National Park 211

Guy Fawkes River National Park 175

Hartz Mountains National Park 659

Hat Head National Park 171-2

Hinchinbrook Island 386Innes National Park

780-1Iron Range National

Park 437Kakadu National Park 15,

45-6, 821-8, 822, 15Kalbarri National Park

24, 965-6Kanangra-Boyd National

Park 150Karijini National Park

989-92, 990Keep River National

Park 841Kelly Hill Conservation

Park 758Kinchega National

Park 212Kosciuszko National

Park 241-4Ku-ring-gai Chase

National Park 102Lake Warden Wetland

System 956-7Lamington National

Park 321Lane Cove National

Park 100Leeuwin-Naturaliste

National Park 932Leliyn (Edith Falls) 836Lesueur National Park

924Limmen National

Park 844Lincoln National Park

782Litchfield National

Park 818-19Little Desert National

Park 583-4Little Sahara 758Living Desert State

Park 212Lorella Springs

Wilderness Park 845

MacDonnell Ranges 862-3Maria Island National

Park 668-70Mary River National

Park 817Millstream Chichester

National Park 989Minnamurra Rainforest

Centre 221Mirima National Park

1011Mitchell River National

Park 1009Mole Creek Karst

National Park 698Montague Island

(Baranguba) 231-2Moreton Island National

Park & Recreation Area 306-5

Morton National Park 239

Mt Arapiles State Park 582-3

Mt Buffalo National Park 612-13

Mt Canobolas 204Mt Coot-tha Reserve

275-6Mt Field National Park

653-5Mt William National

Park 676Mungo National Park

215-17, 620Murramarang National

Park 228Murujuga National

Park 987Myall Lakes National

Park 166-8Namadgi National

Park 266Nambung National

Park 923-4Naracoorte Caves

National Park 775Narawntapu National

Park 693Naree Budjong Djara

National Park 303New England National

Park 175Nightcap National

Park 195Ningaloo Marine Park

982-4Nitmiluk (Katherine

Gorge) National Park 19, 836-40, 19

Noosa Biosphere Reserve 323Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

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1093IN

DEX N

-O

Noosa National Park 323North Head 99Orpheus Island 388Oxley Wild Rivers

National Park 175Paluma Range National

Park 387Point Nepean National

Park 532Porcupine Gorge

National Park 444Porongurup National

Park 953-4, 953Port Campbell National

Park 557Purnululu National Park

1013-14, 1014Rainbow Valley Conser-

vation Reserve 867Richmond Range

National Park 199Rinyirru (Lakefield)

National Park 434Rocky Cape National

Park 702Rowley Shoals Marine

Park 993Royal National Park

217-18Sea Acres National

Park 168Seal Bay Conservation

Park 757Shoalwater Islands

Marine Park 918Snowy River National

Park 594South Bruny National

Park 655South Head 95Southwest National Park

661, 713Springbrook National

Park 321Stirling Range National

Park 954-5, 954-5Sturt National Park 217Tamborine National

Park 321Tasman National Park

662Tasmania 633Tasmanian Wilderness

World Heritage Area 633

Tathra National Park 925

Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve 266

Tomaree National Park 164

Torndirrup National Park 953

Tower Hill Reserve 562Tunnel Creek 1005Uluru-Kata Tjuta

National Park 12, 839, 871-7, 12, 60

Undara Volcanic National Park 439

Valley of the Giants 944-5

Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park 790-1

Walls of Jerusalem National Park 699

Walpole-Nornalup National Park 944

Warrumbungle National Park 200

Watarrka National Park 870-1, 871, 2, 7, 839

Wilsons Promontory Marine National Park 586

Wilsons Promontory National Park 21, 586-9, 587, 21

Windjana Gorge 1005-6Wollumbin National

Park 195Wooroonooran National

Park 392Worimi Conservation

Lands 164Yarriabini National

Park 173Yuraygir National Park

180Nelson 565-6New England 196-200New Norcia 922New South Wales 62,

66-251, 68-9, 143, 203

accommodation 66climate 66food 66highlights 68-9travel seasons 66travel to/from 67travel within 67, 245

Newcastle 157-64, 160Newhaven 537newspapers 1054Nhill 583-4Nimbin 194-6Ninety Mile Beach 591Ningaloo Coast 972-85,

974-5

Ningaloo Marine Park 982-4

Ningaloo Reef 18, 982-4Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge)

National Park 19, 836-40, 19

Noosa 323-7, 325, 59Noosa Everglades 336Normanton 440-1Nornalup 944-6North Coast Road (King

Island) 756-7North Stradbroke Island

303-5, 304Northern Territory 64, 796-

877, 798-9, 814-15, 868-9

accommodation 796climate 796food 796highlights 798-9travel seasons 796

Northwest Corner 442-3notable buildings

Abercrombie House 202Australian Parliament

House 254-6Beechworth Courthouse

605Boyd’s Tower 238Callington Mill 666Central Tilba 233Clarendon 691Cooks’ Cottage 466, 468Como House 476Elizabeth Bay House 85Elizabeth Farm 100Elsey Station Homestead

842Experiment Farm

Cottage 99-100Flinders Street Station

457-628Fremantle Prison 905Government House

(Melbourne) 476Highfield 702Lake View House 608Lanyon Homestead

265-6Martindale Hall 766Melbourne 479Melbourne Town Hall

457Mill, the 576Museum Village 956Old Beechworth Gaol

605Old Geelong Gaol 542-3

Old Government House (Brisbane) 271

Old Government House (Sydney) 100

Parliament House (Brisbane) 270

Parliament House (Melbourne) 457

Perth Mint 882Queen Victoria

Building 77Rio Vista & Mildura Arts

Centre 619Royal Arcade 461Round House 905-6Royal Exhibition Building

469Salt Store 912Sandhurst Gaol 572Saumarez Homestead

198Sir Henry Parkes

Memorial School of Arts 199

Sun Pictures 992Sydney Opera House 70Vaucluse House 90Woolloomooloo Wharf 85

Nourlangie 826-7Nowra 225-6Nundroo 785Nuriootpa 762-3

OOatlands 666-7Oenpelli 830Old Andado Track 52Old Bar 167Old Telegraph Track 437Olgas, the, see Kata TjutaOmeo 618-19Oodnadatta 794Oodnadatta Track 51,

794-5, 46opening hours 23, 1060Orange 204-5Ormiston Gorge 864Orpheus Island 388Otway Fly 557outback, the 27, 44-52,

791-5, 839, 48-9, 51cycling 46driving 50facilities 46highways 52permits 52road trains 47safety 50

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1094

IND

EX O-R

outback, the continuedtours 47tracks 47, 51-2transport 45travel seasons 44-5websites 47

Overland Track 710

Ppaddle-steamers 628Palm Beach 318-19Palm Cove 413-14Paluma Range National

Park 387Pambula 234-6Parachilna 790paragliding

Bright 613Rainbow Beach 342

Parap Village 808Paringa 771-2Parkes 209parks & gardens

Adelaide Botanic Gardens 715, 718

Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden 781

Australian National Botanic Gardens 256

Barangaroo Reserve 24, 71

Bicentennial Park 797Birrarung Marr 457Booderee Botanic

Gardens 228Botanic Gardens

(Ballarat) 567Brisbane Botanic

Gardens 275Cataract Gorge 680Centennial Park 87Chinese Garden of

Friendship 81City Botanic Gardens

(Brisbane) 270Djanbung Gardens 194Dubbo Regional Botanic

Garden 207-8East Point Reserve 801Fitzroy Gardens 466Flagstaff Gardens 464Flecker Botanic Gardens

393Foxglove Gardens 233George Brown Botanic

Gardens 797

Hyde Park 77Japanese Garden 206King Edward Park 158Kings Park & Botanic

Garden 879Mackay Regional

Botanical Gardens 362Mrs Macquaries Point

70-1Mt Lofty Botanic Garden

741National Arboretum 256New Farm Park 275Nielsen Park 95Olive Pink Botanic

Garden 851Roma Street Parkland

270Rosalind Park 572Royal Botanic Garden

(Sydney) Sydney 70Royal Botanic Gardens

(Melbourne) 473-5Royal Tasmanian

Botanical Gardens 640

South Bank Parklands 274

St Kilda Botanical Gardens 477

Telegraph Station Historical Reserve 851

Wollongong Botanic Garden 218

Wombat Hill Botanic Gardens 528

Paronella Park 391Parramatta 24passports 1067Paterson, Banjo 447Patyegarang 1019Pemberton 943-4Pender Bay 1001-2penguins 535-6, 699, 701Penneshaw 754-5Penola 777-8Penong 785Perth 879, 882-903,

884-5, 888-9, 894, 898-9, 913, 61

accommodation 878, 887-91

activities 883-6beaches 882-3children, travel with 886drinking & nightlife

896-9festivals & events 886-7food 878, 891-6internet access 901

itineraries 883LGBTIQ travellers 897medical services 901postal services 901shopping 901sights 879-882tourist information 902tours 886travel to/from 902travel within 902-3

Phar Lap 1028Phillip Island 534-8, 535phonecards 1062Pieman River 705Pilbara 972-3, 974-5Pimba 791Pine Creek 820-1Pink Lake 962Pinnacles Desert 19,

923-4, 19planetariums

Brisbane 276 Launceston 680 Wollongong 218 Sydney 71

planningAustralia basics 22-3Australia’s regions 62-4budgeting 23calendar of events 28-31children, travel with

1054-5itineraries 32-6, 32, 33,

34, 36outback travel 44-52repeat visitors 24travel seasons 22,

28-31, 53websites 23, 24

plants 925, 1038Plenty Highway 52politics 1016-17population 1017Porongurup National Park

953-4, 953Port Arthur 664-6Port Augusta 781-2Port Campbell 558-9Port Douglas 400-1, 418-

24, 420, 41, 401Port Elliot 748-9Port Fairy 562-3, 541Port Hedland 988-9Port Lincoln 782-3Port Macquarie 168-71,

170-1Port Stephens 164-6Port Vincent 779

Portland 563-5possums 1041postal services 1060pub accommodation

1054pubs 26, 1046public holidays 1060-1Purnululu National Park

1013-14, 1014

Qquarantine, interstate 1059Queen Victoria Building

77, 78Queenscliff 545-7Queensland 63, 267-452,

268-9accommodation 267climate 267food 267highlights 268-9outback 443-52travel seasons 267

Queensland Cultural Centre 271

Queenstown 705-6Quobba Coast 971-2quokkas 916quolls 823

Rradio 1034, 1054Rainbow Beach 342-3Rainforestation 415Ravenswood 384Raymond Island 593Recherche Bay 661Red Centre Way 865Red Hill 533-4reef walking 403religion 1017Renmark 771-2rental accommodation

1054reptiles 1037-8Richmond (Tasmania)

652-3Riesling trail 766Rinyirru (Lakefield)

National Park 434Riverina 244-9road conditions 1076road rules 1077road trains 47roadhouses 849Robe 773-4

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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1095IN

DEX R

-S rock art 860-1, 1032, 22

Arnhem Land 828, 829, 830

Flinders Ranges 789 Grampians, the 566, 582 Kakadu National Park

821, 822-3, 824, 826 Kimberley 1004, 1009 Mulka’s Cave 921 Nitmiluk (Katherine

Gorge) National Park 836, 837

Pilbara 986, 987 Qunikan Country 435 Uluru 876, 877

rock climbing & abseilingBlue Mountains 143Brisbane 277Cairns 395-6Grampians 580Kalbarri National

Park 964Karijini National park 991Margaret River 940Mt Arapiles 582-3Mt Buffalo 612Snowy River National

Park 594Tasmania 634, 640, 679,

680, 713Rockhampton 356-8Rockingham 917-18Rocks, the 70-5, 82-3,

80, 83Roebourne 987-8Roper Highway 843-4Rosevears 687-8Ross 667-8Ross River fever 1051Rottnest Island

(Wadjemup) 911-17, 914Royal Australian Mint 257Royal Flying Doctor Service

208, 212, 444, 800, 851, 875, 1057

Royal National Park 217-18rugby 1048Rutherglen 609-12

Ssafety 1050-1, 1061

beaches 1051, 1057-8bushwalking 54-5car travel 1072-3crocodiles 1050cyclones 368dingoes 350hitching 1077

sharks 1042, 1050 women travellers 1064-5

sailing 42-3, 403Airlie Beach 38, 365-7Coral Bay 973-4Magnetic Island 383Port Douglas 419, 420Strahan 707Tasmania 633Whitsundays 367, 370,

372Salamanca Market 651Sale 591Sandover Highway 52Sapphire Coast 234-8scenic flights, see also

hot-air ballooningAirlie Beach 367Broome 993Coral Bay 973Denham 968Derby 1004Fraser Island 338Great Barrier Reef 397,

403Gulf of Carpentaria 844Halls Creek 1010Kakadu National Park

823Katherine Gorge 837Kimberley, the 1004Kings Canyon 870Kununurra 1011Sydney 106-7Uluru-Kata Tjuta

National Park 872Watarrka National Park

870Whitsundays 367Wilsons Promontory

National Park 586Yulara 872

scenic railwaysHotham Valley Railway

920Ida Bay Railway 661Pemberton Tramway 943Puffing Billy 522Walhalla Goldfields 590West Coast Wilderness

Railway 707Schoolies 313Seal Rocks 166Seisia 437Serpentine Gorge 864Shark Bay 966-70sharks 1042, 1050Sheffield 694-5

Shoalhaven Coast 223-9Silverton 215Simpson Desert 52skiing 55

Falls Creek 616-17Kosciuszko National

Park 242-3 Lake Mountain 526 Mt Buffalo 612-13 Mt Buller 600-1 Mt Hotham 616-18 Mt Kosciuszko 243Mt Mawson 654 Perisher 243Thredbo 242-3

skydivingAirlie Beach 366Avon Valley 921Brisbane 277Cairns 398Caloundra 329Hervey Bay 339Mission Beach 388Sunshine Coast 334Townsville 379

smoking 1054snakes 1050Snapper Rocks 317, 319snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsnowboarding, see skiingSnowy Mountains 239-44soccer 1048South Australia 64, 714-95,

716-17, 514accommodation 714cilmate 714food 714highlights 716-17history 715sights 715-19travel seasons 714

South Coast Road (King Island) 757-8

South Molle Island 373South Stradbroke Island

320South West Rocks 172 Southern Highlands 238-9Southern Reef Islands

355-6, 400Southport 661Sovereign Hill 566spas

Byron Bay 186Hepburn Springs 528Mornington

Peninsula 533

spiders 1050-1Spit, the 313, 317sport 1047-8sporting events

AFL Grand Final 481Airlie Beach Race Week

367Alice Springs Camel

Cup 855Alice Springs Cup

Carnival 854Australian Formula 1

Grand Prix 481Australian

Motorcycle Grand Prix 537

Australian Open 480Australian Outback

Marathon 873Bathurst 1000 202Beer Can Regatta 803Birdsville Cup 452Brisbane International

278City2Surf 107Clipsal 500 723Darwin Cup Carnival 803Finke Desert Race 854Gold Coast 600 311Henley-on-Todd Regatta

855Marble Bar Cup 987Melbourne Cup 481Mt Isa Rodeo 445Noosa Festival of Surfing

324Perth Cup 886Quicksilver & Roxy

Pro 319Rip Curl Pro 550Sydney to Hobart Yacht

Race 107, 641-2Tiwi Grand Final 812Tour Down Under 723Uluru Camel Cup 854

sports stadiumsAdelaide Oval 718-19Gabba, the 298-9Melbourne Cricket

Ground 466 Sydney Cricket Ground

135Springbrook National

Park 321St Helens 675-6Stanley 702-3Stansbury 779Stanthorpe 308-9Stirling 740-1

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1096

IND

EX S-U

Stirling Range National Park 954-5, 954-5

Stolen Generations 1026Story Bridge Adventure

Climb 277storytelling 1034Strahan 706-8Strathgordon 712-13Streaky Bay 784street art

Brisbane 276, 278-9, 283, 300

Geelong 539, 542 Melbourne 457, 467, 468,

476, 480, 515Strzelecki Track 51, 795Stuart Highway 45, 52Sunset Coast 922-6Sunshine Coast

321-37, 322Sunshine Coast

hinterland 337Surfers Paradise

311-13, 312surfing 55-6

Anglesea 550Australian National

Surfing Museum 548Batemans Bay 230Byron Bay 187Coffs Harbour 177-8Coolangatta 319Coolum 334Geraldton 959-60Gold Coast 317Margaret River 940, 20Merimbula 235Mooloolaba 332Myall Lakes National

Park 166-7Noosa 323, 324Ocean Beach 946Perth 883, 885Phillip Island 536Port Elliot 749Port Macquarie 168Port Stephens 164Rainbow Beach 342Rip Curl Pro 550Surfers Paradise 311Sydney 102Tamarama Beach 93Torquay 548Wollongong 220Woolgoolga 180

Swansea 670-2swimming 1048

Melbourne 479-80safety 93, 1051, 1061Sydney 102-4 Sydney’s ocean pools

92-3, 79, 91, 94Sydney 11, 66-142, 74-5,

80, 84, 86, 88-9, 96, 101, 105, 143, 78, 72-3

accommodation 66, 108-13

activities 100-5children, travel with 104climate 66drinking & nightlife

124-33entertainment 133-6festivals & events 107food 66, 114-24history 67itineraries 71LGBTIQ travellers 132medical services 139shopping 136-9sights 70-100tourist information 139tours 105-7travel to/from 139-40travel within 140-2walking tours 82-3, 83

Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras 107, 132

Sydney Harbour 90-6, 72-3

Sydney Harbour Bridge 70, 72-3, 31, 58, 72-3

Sydney Observatory 71Sydney Opera House 70,

78-9Sydney to Hobart Yacht

Race 641-2Sydney Tower Eye 77

TTamar Valley 686-9Tamborine Mountain 320-1Tamworth 196-8Tamworth Country Music

Festival 196-7Tanami Track 52, 850Tanunda 760-2Taree 167Tarkine Wilderness 704-5Taronga Western Plains

Zoo 207Taronga Zoo 95-6

Tasman Arch 663Tasman Peninsula 661-6,

663Tasmania 63, 629-713,

630-1, 657, 669, 687, 694-5

accommodation 629activities 633-4climate 629food 629highlights 630-1history 632-3national parks 633tourist information 634tours 634travel seasons 629travel to/from 634travel within 634-5

Tasmanian devils 670, 663-4, 674, 698, 709, 1042

Tasmanian tigers 940, 941, 1016, 1023, 1032

Tasmanian Trail 635taxes 1060Teewah coloured sand

cliffs 335telephone services 23,

1061-2television 1034, 1054Tennant Creek 847-9tennis 28, 278, 480, 1048Tenterfield 199-200Terrigal 150theme parks, see

amusement parks Three Sisters 147Thursday Island 438-9Tibooburra 217Tilba Tilba 233Timber Creek 840-1Timboon 559time 22, 1062Tinamba Hotel 590Tip, the 438tipping 1045-6, 1060Tiwi Islands 812-13toilets 1062Toowoomba 306-8Torquay 547-9Torres Strait Islanders 1031Torres Strait Islands 438tourist information 1062tours, see also individual

locations, Aboriginal cultural tours, adven-ture tours, boat tours & cruises, driving tours, food & wine tours,

ghost tours, walking tours, whale watching

Adelaide 722-3, 738Alice Springs 854Arnhem Land 828-9Blue Mountains 142-3Brisbane 278bus 142-3camel 872camel tours 993-7cycling 106Darwin 802-3fishing 831Great Barrier Reef 397Great Ocean Road 550Kakadu National Park

823-4Karijini National Park

991Katherine 832-4Katherine Gorge 836-7Mary River 815McLaren Vale 744-5Melbourne 480Mildura 216outback 47rock art 830Sydney 105-7Tiwi Islands 812Uluru-Kata Tjuta

National Park 872wildlife 536, 754, 756,

802, 907Tower Hill 562Town of 1770 351-5Townsville 376-82, 400,

378, 401train travel 1077, see also

scenic railwaysGhan, the 21, 24, 21historic 440

travel advisories 1061travel seasons 28-31, 53travel to/from Australia 23,

1067-8travel within Australia 23,

1068-77Travers, Pamela Lyndon

(PL) 343trekking, see

bushwalkingTrentham 530Tropfest 107Tully 386-7Tully River 389Turquoise Coast 922-6turtles 345, 355, 411, 802,

981, 982, 993TV 1034, 1054Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

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1097IN

DEX U

-W

Twelve Apostles 13, 557-8, 559, 13, 540

typhus 1051

UUbirr 824-5Ulladulla 228-9Uluru 12, 45, 839, 875-7,

876, 12, 838-9Uluru-Kata Tjuta National

Park 12, 839, 871-7, 60Unaipon, David 1023, 1034Unesco World Heritage

Sites 70, 1036Daintree, the 15,

424-9, 15, 58Fraser Island 21, 338,

346-51, 347, 21Great Barrier Reef 11, 37-

43, 377, 399-404, 39, 11, 41, 399-401

Kakadu National Park 15, 821-8, 822, 15

Lamington National Park 321

Macquarie Island World Heritage Area 633

Naracoorte Caves National Park 775

Ningaloo Reef 18, 982-4Tasmanian Wilderness

World Heritage Area 633

Vvacations 1060-1vaccinations 1057Vegemite 1045Victor Harbor 747-8Victoria 63, 453-628,

454-5, 523, 538-9, 579, 584-5, 587, 602-3, 620-1

accommodation 453climate 453food 453highlights 454-5travel seasons 453

Victoria Highway 46, 52Victoria River Crossing 840viral encephalitis 1051visas 22, 1063-4volunteering 997, 1064

WWadjemup 911-17, 914Wagga Wagga 246-7Waikerie 768-9

Walhalla 589-90walking, see bushwalkingwalking tours

Apollo Bay 555Broome 997Cradle Mountain 710Darwin 802-3Flinders Ranges 785Fremantle 907Hahndorf 740Hobart 640-1Mackay 362Melbourne 467, 480, 467Perth 886Rottnest Island 915Sheffield 694Sydney 82-3, 104-5,

106, 83wallabies 385, 823, 864Wallaroo 778-9wallaroos 864Walls of Jerusalem

National Park 699Walpole 944-6‘Waltzing Matilda’ 447Warrnambool 560-2Warrumbungle National

Park 200Watarrka 839Watarrka National Park

870-1, 871, 7, 839water, drinking 1058waterfalls

Bloomfield Falls 429Crystal Cascades 393Erskine Falls 552Gunlom 828Jim Jim Falls 827Jourama Falls 387Maguk 828Mitchell Falls 1009Russell Falls 653Steavenson Falls 526Twin Falls 827Wallaman Falls 385Waterfall Way 175 Wentworth Falls 145

Wave Rock 920-1We of the Never Never 842weather 22, 28-31, 44-5,

1035, see also individual locations

websites 23activities 57bicycle travel 1069camping 24Great Barrier Reef 38 outback, the 47

Wegener, Tom 336weights 1054Weipa 436Wentworth Falls 145-6Western Australia 64,

878-1014, 880-1, 927, 946-7, 974-5, 983

accommodation 878climate 878food 878highlights 880-1travel seasons 878

Wet Tropics World Heritage Area 392

whale sharks 18, 973, 976, 978, 982, 18

whales 1041whale watching 29, 57

Albany 949, 951Dunsborough 931Eden 236Fremantle 907Hervey Bay 337-8,

340, 57Jervis Bay 226, 227Merimbula 235Mooloolaba 332Ningaloo Marine Park

982, 984 Perth 883

Whitehaven Beach 371, 401-2

white-water raftingCairns 397-8Franklin River 708-9Snowy River 594Tully River 389, 397-8

Whitsunday Coast 362-76, 363

Whitsunday Island 374Whitsundays, the 14, 370-4,

400, 14, 402wi-fi 1058wilderness areas 25-6, see

also national parks & nature reserves

Tarkine Wilderness 704-5wildlife 15, 404, 1036-8,

see also individual species

wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Alice Springs Desert Park 850-1

Alice Springs Reptile Centre 851

Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary 790

Barna Mia Animal Sanctuary 922

BatReach 415Bellingen Island 174Billabong Sanctuary 377Bonorong Wildlife Centre

652Cairns Turtle

Rehabilitation Centre 411

Charleville Bilby Experience 451

Cleland Wildlife Park 741 Currumbin Wildlife

Sanctuary 318David Fleay Wildlife

Park 317Devils@Cradle 709Dolphin Discovery

Centre 926Hamelin Pool 967Healesville Sanctuary 524Island Sanctuary 248Kangaroo Island 753Koala Care Centre 193Koala Hospital 168Kuranda Koala Gardens

415Lone Pine Koala

Sanctuary 276-7Monkey Mia Marine

Reserve 969Mornington Wilderness

Camp 1007Pungalina-Seven Emu

Wildlife Sanctuary 847Tasmanian Devil Unzoo

663-4 Trowunna Wildlife

Park 698Tyto wetlands 385Window on the Wetlands

Visitor Centre 813wildlife watching 55, 1041-2William Creek 794Wills, William John 1022Willunga 745-6Wilpena Pound 788,

789, 26Wilsons Promontory

National Park 21, 586-9, 587, 21

Wilyabrup 935-7windsurfing 923wine regions 16, 26, 1044

Barossa Valley 16, 763, 16

Bellarine Peninsula 546Canberra 266Clare Valley 765, 26Coal River Valley 653Coonawarra 777-8

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1098

IND

EX W-Z

wine regions continued Granite Belt 308Griffith 247-8Hunter Valley 151-7 King Valley 603-4Margaret River

932-41, 934McLaren Vale 744, 60-1Milawa 604Mornington Peninsula

534Mudgee 209-11Orange 204-5Pemberton 943Penfolds 719Pipers River 690Riesling Trail 766 Rutherglen 611Stanthorpe 309Tamar Valley 686, 687 Yarra Valley 525

Wineglass Bay 673Wingham 167

Winton 447-9Wollongong 218-21, 219WOMADelaide 723wombats 54, 529, 1037women travellers 1064-5Woodend 530Woodford 330Woolgoolga 180Woomera 791-2Wooroonooran National

Park 392work 1065-6World Heritage Sites, see

Unesco World Heritage Sites

Wugularr 843Wye River 554Wyndham 1008

Yyachting, see sailingYackandandah 607-8Yallingup 933, 935

Yamba 181-3Yardie Creek Gorge 985Yarra Valley 523-6Yellow Water 827Yeppoon 358-60York 921-2Yorke Peninsula

778-81, 780Yorkeys Knob 411-12Yulara 872-5, 873Yungaburra 417-18

Zzoos, see also aquariums

Adelaide Zoo 718Australian Reptile Park

150Ballarat Wildlife Park 567Bunbury Wildlife Park

926Crocodylus Park 802Crocosaurus Cove 797Halls Gap Zoo 580

Mansfield Zoo 599Melbourne Zoo 471Mogo Zoo 231Monarto Zoo 767National Zoo &

Aquarium 256Natureworld 674Perth Zoo 882Platypus House 688Potoroo Palace 234-5Rainbow Jungle Parrot

Sanctuary 962-3Raptor Domain 758Richmond ZooDoo

Zoo 652Taronga Western Plains

Zoo 207Taronga Zoo 95-6Territory Wildlife

Park 816Wildlife Habitat Port

Douglas 419Wildlife HQ 331Wild Life Sydney Zoo 82

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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1099N

OTES

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1100

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Benedict WalkerSouthwest, Central & Outback New South Wales Ben was born in Newcastle, Australia, and grew up in the ‘burbs spending weekends and long summers by the beach, whenever possible. Although he’s drawn magnetically to the kinds of mountains he encountered in the Canadian Rockies and the Japan and Swiss Alps, beach life is in his blood. Japan was the first gig he got for Lonely Planet, in 2008, and he’s been blessed to have been asked back three more times since

then. He really is someone who is living his dreams, though life on the road can have its ups and downs. He’s also written and directed a play, toured Australia managing the travel logistics for top-billing music festivals and is playing around with photography and film-making. Join him on his journeys on Insta gram: @wordsandjourneys.

Steve WatersBroome & the Kimberley Travel and adventure have always been Steve’s life; he couldn’t imagine a world without them. He’s been using Lonely Planet guide-books for more than 30 years in places as diverse as Iran, Central Asia, Kam-chatka, Tuva, the Himalaya, Canada, Patagonia, the Australian Outback, NE Asia, Myanmar and the Sahara. Little wonder then that he finally got a gig with the company he was supporting! He’s contributed to Iran and Indonesia guidebooks,

and to the past four editions of Western Australia, and come any September you’re likely to find him in a remote gorge somewhere in the Kimberley. His travel ethos:Travel gives you a unique view of the world. Patience, acceptance, resourcefulness and flexibility are all lessons well learnt. Plans change, where some people see obstacles, others see possibilities. Go with an open mind. But go!

Donna WheelerCentral Coast New South Wales, Byron Bay & Northern New South Wales, the Gold Coast Donna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for 10 years, contrib-uting to guides to Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Melbourne. She is the author of Paris Precincts, a curated photographic guide to the city’s best bars, restaurants and shops and is a reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher My Art Guides. Donna’s work on contemporary art,

architecture and design, food, wine, wilderness areas and cultural history can be found in a variety of other publications. She became a travel writer after various careers as a commissioning editor, creative director, digital producer and content strategist.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Peter DragicevichCanberra, ACT & Snowy Mountains, Melbourne & Victoria After a successful ca-reer in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New

Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

Trent HoldenAround Melbourne, Mornington Peninsula & Phillip Island, Great Ocean Road, Goldfields & Grampians, Wilsons Promontory & Gippsland, Victorian High Country A Geelong-based writer, located just outside Melbourne, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s contributed to 30-plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better

– to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes guides to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spending all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.

Virginia MaxwellLaunceston & Around, Devonport & Northwestern Tasmania, Cradle Country & Western Tasmania Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage in Europe and the Middle East. The Mediterranean is her favourite place to travel, and she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Morocco for Lonely Planet guidebooks – there are only eight more countries to go! Virginia also writes

about Armenia, Iran and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Tamara ShewardCairns & Around After years of freelance travel writing, rock’n’roll journalism and insalubrious authordom, Tamara leapt at the chance to join the Lonely Planet ranks in 2009. Since then, she’s worked on guides to an incongruous jumble of countries including Montenegro, Australia, Serbia, Russia, the Samoas, Bulgaria and Fiji. She’s written a miscellany of travel articles for the BBC, The Independ-ent, Sydney Morning Herald et al; she’s also fronted the camera as a documen-

tary presenter for Lonely Planet TV, Nat Geo and Al-Jazeera. Tamara’s based in far northern Austral-ia, but you’re more likely to find her roaming elsewhere, tattered notebook in one hand, the world’s best-travelled toddler in the other.

Tom SpurlingFraser Island & the Fraser Coast, Capricorn Coast, Whitsunday Coast, Townsville & Mission Beach, the Great Barrier Reef For this edition, Tom Spurling bumbled from Mission Beach to Fraser Island, but he grew up further south where fewer things can sting you. He has worked on 14 Lonely Planet titles, including Central America, India, Turkey, Japan, South Africa and China. When not pretending to be a twenty-something backpacker, he is a much older married man with two

small children who discusses very grave matters with high school students in Hong Kong.

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Charles Rawlings-WayQueensland, Hobart & Tasmania, Adelaide & South Australia Charles is a veteran travel writer who has penned 30-something titles for Lonely Planet – including guides to Singapore, Toronto, Sydney, Tasmania, New Zealand, the South Pacific and Australia – and numerous articles. After dabbling in the dark arts of architec-ture, cartography, project management and busking for some years, Charles hit the road for LP in 2005 and hasn’t stopped travelling since. ‘What’s in store for

me in the direction I don’t take?’ (Kerouac).

Andy SymingtonSydney, South Coast NSW, Lord Howe Island Andy has written or worked on more than a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and web-sites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Originally from Aus-

tralia, Andy moved to northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Kate ArmstrongThe Murray Kate has spent much of her adult life travelling and living around the world. A full-time freelance travel journalist, she has contributed to around 40 Lonely Planet guides and trade publications and is regularly published in Austral-ian and worldwide publications. She is the author of several books and children’s educational titles. Over the years, Kate has worked in Mozambique, picked grapes in France and danced in a Bolivian folkloric troupe. A keen photographer,

greedy gourmand and frenetic festival goer, she enjoys exploring off-the-beaten-track locations, restaurants and theatres. You can read more about her on www.katearmstrongtravelwriter.com and @nomaditis.

Carolyn BainMonkey Mia & the Central West, Ningaloo Coast & the Pilbara, Outback Western Australia A travel writer and editor for 16 years, Carolyn has lived, worked and studied in various corners of the globe, including London, Denmark, St Peters-burg and Nantucket. She is regularly drawn north from her base in Melbourne, Australia to cover diverse destinations for Lonely Planet, from dusty outback Australia to luminous Greek islands, by way of Maine’s lobster shacks and Slove-

nia’s alpine lakes. The Nordic region stakes a large claim to her heart, with repeated visits to Iceland and Denmark for work and pleasure. Carolyn writes about travel and food for a range of publishers; see carolynbain.com.au for more.

Cristian BonettoBrisbane & Around, Noosa & the Sunshine Coast, Melbourne Cristian has con-tributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, spanning cities, regions and countries across four continents, including his homeland, Australia. His musings on travel, food, culture and design have appeared in numerous publi-cations and media outlets around the world. When not on the road, you’ll find the reformed playwright and TV scriptwriter slurping espresso in his beloved

hometown, Melbourne. You can follow Cristian’s adventures on Instagram (rexcat75) and Twitter (@CristianBonetto).

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Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415319th edition – Nov 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 237 0© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSBrett AtkinsonPerth, Around Perth, Margaret River & the Southwest Coast, Southern WA For this edition, Brett uncovered new restaurants, bars and distilleries in Perth and Fremantle, and jumped from beach to forest and back to beach throughout Margaret River and the southwest. In Albany, a poignant highlight was the National Anzac Centre telling the story of brave WWI soldiers. Brett has con-tributed to Lonely Planet guidebooks spanning Europe, Africa, Asia, the United

States and the Pacific, and covered over 60 countries as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his latest adventures.

Anthony HamCentral Australia, Northern Territory Anthony is a freelance writer and pho-tographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US.

Paul HardingCairns & the Daintree, Cape York Peninsula, Gulf Savannah, Outback Queens-land, As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Iceland, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.

Kate MorganMelbourne & Victoria Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on destinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at

home working as a freelance editor.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’