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622622

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting an-ecdotes: A Adelien Vandeweghe, Ali Thorn, Ankur Agarwal, Anne & David Brock, Anouk van Lammeren B Bas Zeper C Christopher Moore D Dave Krantz E Eamon McCann, Erik Eskin F Frank Genghis J Jan Timmermans, Jan van den Heuij, John Bone, Jurgen Bruyninx K Karri Viitala & Maiju Monto M Marcus Feaver, Mark Cohen, Melissa & Dominic Pepper O Oscar Page P Peter Daemen R Remko Donga, Roger Lewis S Samuel Wainstein, Sapideh Gilani, Soren Braun, Stphanie Visser T Tarsis Arroo W Wilfried Vancraeynest

AUTHOR THANKSIsabel AlbistonThanks to everyone who helped out along the way, especially Narelle McMurtrie, Mrs Lee, Stephen Baya and Tine Hjetting, Mado in Pa Lungan, Dina Bailey, Chongteah Lim, Leslie Chiang, Anthony Chieng, Polycarp Teo Sebum and Louise, Jacqueline Fong and Jo-Lynn Liao. Cheers also to Stefan Arestis and Sebastien Chaneac for making me laugh and to my friends and family for their love and support. Lastly, huge thanks to Sarah and Simon.

Brett AtkinsonTerima kasih to a whole cast of characters who assisted me on this trip. In Kota Bharu, cheers to Zeck and Bob, and on the Perhentian islands, thank you to Neil, Shauna especially for the scissors Raymond and Seh Ling. In Kuala Terengganu, many thanks to Alex and Maslina for the company and conversation. Thanks to Sarah Reid and the wider editorial and cartog-raphy team, and final thanks to Carol and my family back home in Selandia Baru.

Greg BenchwickHuge thanks to my Destination Editor Sarah for putting her faith in me on this project (my first in the region). The people of Malaysia are super friendly. I really want to thank Joe at the Kuantan Visitor Center, and the entire crew of rip-roarious irregulars at EcoBar in Cherating. And first and always, thank you my darling Violeta for making my life so rich. Love, Daddy.

Cristian BonettoA heartfelt thankyou to Helen Burge, Craig Bradbery, Honey Lee, Carolyn Ng, Sharon Vu, Myra Tan, Andy Yeo, Michelle Chua, Richie Raupe, Seb Neylan, Stephane Hasselsweiler and Dean Brettschneider. Many thanks also to my patient, supportive family and to Sarah Reid for the commission.

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

623BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Austin BushThanks to the kind folks on the ground in Malaysia and abroad including Joann Khaw, Bee Yinn Low, Narelle McMurtrie, Chris Ong, Wanida Razali, Khoo Salma and Ernest Zacharevic.

Anita IsalskaMy research was much richer thanks to Mr David at Sekeping Kong Heng, Noor Rashiela Binti Mohd Salleh and the Tourism Malay-sia team, Steve Khong, Shaukani Abbas, K Rajasegaran, Jek Yap, Jay and the Fathers Guesthouse crew. Big thanks to Seow Wei Tang and family for tips and karaoke, and Simon Richmond for thoughtful guidance. Nora, who gave me cola when I was slipping unconscious with Jerantut nausea, danke. And Normal Matt, for KL rooftop cocktails and boundless cheer.

Robert Scott KellyFor this book, the dedications are simple. All my love and thanks go to Tania Simonetti, wife and companion on my most important travels in this world, and to our infant son, Robin Francesco, born beautiful and healthy on 20 July 2015, while this guidebook was taking shape.

Simon RichmondTerima kasih to the following: Nozara Yusof, Alex Yong, Andrew Sebastian, Narelle Mc-Murtrie, Gregers Reimann and Scott Dunn.

Richard WatersSincere thanks to Eljer for his patience and skill, Daniken for keeping my dinner warm, Diana without whose help much of this trip would have been so much harder, Arwen, Walter and staff, Kurt (easily the best wildlife guide in 15 years travel writing), Mr Reward and brother James Bond, tireless Bobby who braved the mudslides and aftershocks to take me to Mt K, Charlie and Jess for all their fab-ulous help, Brodie, Emma and Sadie for their lovely co, Jan for his hospitality and Ellen for her reef, Tom, Fanny and finally Carmalita, Mr Robin and May at Sabah Tourism for their fantastic support.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updat-ed World Map of the Kppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Food market in Kota Bharu, Peter Adams/AWL

624

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planets Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guidebook was re-searched and written by Isabel Albiston, Brett Atkinson, Greg Benchwick, Cristian Bonetto, Austin Bush, Anita Isalska, Robert Scott Kelly, Simon Richmond and Richard Waters. The previous edition was writ-ten by Simon Richmond, Cris-tian Bonetto, Celeste Brash,

Joshua Samuel Brown, Austin Bush, Adam Karlin and Daniel Robinson. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Sarah ReidProduct Editors Kathryn Rowan, Elizabeth JonesSenior Cartographer Julie SheridanBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Melanie Dankel, Carly Hall, Gabrielle Innes, Rosie Ni-cholson, Charlotte Orr, Kirsten

Rawlings, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon WilliamsonCartographer Michael GarrettAssisting Book Designer Wibowo RusliCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Anita Banh, Car-olyn Boicos, Grace Dobell, Ryan Evans, Andi Jones, Anne Mason, Kate Matthews, Jenna Myers, Wayne Murphy, Cath-erine Naghten, Karyn Noble, Vicky Smith, Lauren Wellicome

625Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation

heritage hotels 173language 615-16Malaysia 598-9

Acheen St Mosque 163activities 31-7, see also

individual activitiesadventure tours

Kota Kinabalu 320, 321Kuala Lipis 277, 278Pulau Langkawi 200

air quality 594air travel 605, 606-7airlines 606airports 605alcohol 40Alor Gajah 234Alor Setar 208-12, 209ambuyat 477amusement parks

AFamosa Resort 234Berjaya Times Square

Theme Park 67Escape (Penang) 187Legoland 237Oriental Village 193Universal Studios 514-15

animals 6, 24, 32, 343, 423, 520-5, 593, see also individual species, wildlife sanctuaries & reserves, zoos

Animism 585apes, see orangutansaquariums

Aquaria KLCC 59-60SEA Aquarium 513-14

architecture 22, 105, 588, see also historic buildings

Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim 237

Blue Mansion 159, 4-5Clanhouses 165George Town 159, 165,

173Peranakan Terrace

Houses 509Putrajaya 113-14Stadthuys 217Villa Sentosa 222

area codes 21art

street 23-4, 65, 23arts 587-91Asian Civilisations Museum

493ATMs 601Ayer Keroh 233

BBa Kelalan 464-5Baba & Nyonya Heritage

Museum 221Baba House 499-500Bako National Park 413-17Balik Pulau 188Bandar Labuan 389-90,

390Bandar Seri Begawan 470-

82, 472accommodation 476-7activities 474-5drinking 479entertainment 479food 477-9shopping 479-80sights 470-4tours 475-6travel to/from 480-1travel within 481-2

Bangar 484-5Bangsar Baru 75, 90-1, 94-5,

98-9, 91Bario 458-62bars 93Batang Ai Region 429-30Batang Duri 485-6

Batang Rejang 434-9bats 444, 523, 523Batu Caves 18, 107-8, 18Batu Ferringhi 184-6Batu Maung 189Batu Punggul 16, 386Bau 424-5beaches

Bako 35, 416Coral Beach 143, 144Damai Central Beach 418Pantai Pasir Hitam 196Pantai Pasir Tengkorak

195Pasir Bogak 143Peranginan Pantai Muara

474Pulau Gaya 332Pulau Kapas 303Pulau Langkawi 192-7Pulau Mamutik 331Pulau Manukan 331Pulau Perhentian 292-

300, 293Pulau Sapi 331-2Pulau Satang 428-9Pulau Talang-Talang 429Pulau Tioman 251-60,

252Sentosa beaches 515Similajau Beach 441Teluk Assam Beach 416Teluk Bahang 186-8Teluk Nipah 143, 144

Beaufort 386Beaufort Division 386-8bedbugs 613Belaga 438-9Belum-Temenggor

Rainforest 154-5bicycle tours 321, 403Bidayuh people 579Bidong Island 311Bintulu 439-41, 440birds 523, see also

individual species

birdwatching 37, 110, 368, 453

Blue Mansion 159, 4-5boat tours

Bako National Park 416Bandar Seri Begawan 475Putrajaya 113Kota Kinabalu 321Kuching Wetlands

National Park 419Langkawi 199Port Dickson 121Similajau National Park

442Ulu Temburong National

Park 486boat travel 606, 607boating 37books 562, 564border crossings 605

Brunei 392, 451, 480Indonesia 381, 412, 464Singapore 240Thailand 211, 213, 289

Brickfields 60-3, 75, 90, 98-9, 61

Brunei 48, 468-87accommodation 468, 487climate 468emergencies 487food 88, 468, 487gay travellers 487highlights 469holidays 487legal matters 487lesbian travellers 487money 487tourist information 487travel seasons 468visas 487

Buddhism 170budget 21Bukit Larut 153-4Bukit Nanas 75-6bus travel 605, 607business hours 602

626

IND

EX B- G

butterflies 527, 526Penang Butterfly Farm

187Butterworth 158, 182

Ccakes 407Cameron Highlands 12,

134-41, 135, 138, 7, 12accommodation 137-40food 140-1sights 135-7tourist information 141tours 137travel to/from 141travel within 141

car travel 606, 607-8carbon emissions 594cats 403, 520, see also

individial speciescave temples 129caves 454-5

Batu Tulug 361Fairy Cave 424Gomantong Caves 360Great Cave 443Gua Charas 265Gua Kelam 213Gua Tempurung 132Painted Cave 443Ramayana Cave 107-8Temple Cave 107

caving 35cell phones 20, 603cemeteries

Bukit China 222-3Chinese Cemetery

(Sandakan) 349-50Commonwealth Allied

War Cemetery 150Japanese Cemetery

350-1Makam Di Raja 121Protestant Cemetery 163WWII Memorial (Labuan

War Cemetery) 390Central Sarawak 430-52Cheah Kongsi 165Cherating 265-8, 266children, travel with 68,

599health 613-14

Chinatown (Kuala Lumpur) 19, 51-7, 68-9, 75-6, 92, 97, 54-5, 19

Chinatown Heritage Centre 500

Chinese New Year 25, 168Chinese people 576-7Chinese religions 583-4Chow Kit 63-5churches & cathedrals

All Saints Church 149-50Holy Name of Jesus

Catholic Church 188St Andrews Cathedral

497St Michaels & All Angels

Church 351St Thomass Cathedral

402cinema 590-1clanhouses 165climate 20, 25-6, 50, 393,

see also individual regions

consulates 600courses

batik 258cooking 39, 67, 166-8,

402, 518language 67

crafts 24, 590credit cards 601Crocker Range National

Park 384crocodiles 441culture 6, 22-3, 576-82currency 20customs regulations 599cycling 109, 607

Ddance 588dangers, see safetyDanum Valley Conservation

Area 366-9Dayak people 579-8Deepavali 26, 169deforestation 592-3dengue fever 611diarrhoea 611disabilities, travellers with

556, 603-4diving 11, 36, 391, 448,

524, 11Bandar Seri Begawan

474-5costs 36Kota Belud 344-5Kota Kinabalu 320,

321, 322Miri 448Pulau Langkawi 199Pulau Perhentian 294-5

Pulau Sipadan 374Pulau Tioman 252-3, 255responsible travel 36Semporna Archipelago

372-4Seribuat Archipelago 245Tip of Borneo 346weather 36wreck 391

drama 588drinking water 611drinks 40

tea 140, 180, 543

EEast Coast Islands 47,

292-304accommodation 281climate 281food 281highlights 282-3travel seasons 281

Eastern & Oriental Hotel 172, 174

economy 562-4electricity 599, 601elephants 523, 522embassies 600emergencies 21Endau 260Endau-Rompin National

Park 247-9, 248environment 592-6

hazards 611-13etiquette 564

food 42Eurasian people 578exchange rates 21Expedition Robinson 245

Ffarms 137fax services 603ferry travel 208festivals & events 25-6,

111, 577Hindu 18Islamic festivals 584Thaipusam 585

film 562fishing

Taman Negara 273-4flora & fauna 338food 38-44, 79-88, 178,

380, 461, 79-88ambuyat 477blogs 76cooking courses 39, 67,

166-8, 402, 518

etiquette 42hawker stalls 177, 326laksa Balik Pulau 188Penang cuisine 178street 11, 151, 326tours 67

Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) 108-9

fortsFort Canning Park 497Fort Cornwallis 165Kota Kuala Kedah 212

Frasers Hill (Bukit Fraser) 110-13

GGaharu Tea Valley 132galleries 23-4, see also

museumsArt & Garden by Fuan

Wong 187Ernest Zacharevic x

E&O 163Galeri Petronas 60Gillman Barracks 513Hin Bus Depot Art

Centre 166ILHAM 59Junglebluesdream Art

Gallery 460Kampong Ayer Cultural

& Tourism Gallery 470Lostgens 57MAP 66Melaka City 223National Gallery Singa-

pore 19, 492, 19National Visual Arts

Gallery 65State Art Gallery 210

Garama 388gardens 24, see also

national parks, parks and reserves

Art & Garden by Fuan Wong 187

Botanical Gardens 166Gardens by the Bay 489,

492, 23Lake Gardens, the 119Museum Garden 401Orchid Garden 402Perdana Botanical

Garden 62Singapore Botanic

Gardens 504-5Taman Botani 113Taman Tasik Taiping 149Titiwangsa Lake Gardens

65

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

627IN

DEX G

- KTropical Spice Garden

185Gardens by the Bay 489,

492, 23gay travellers 94, 554, 600

Brunei 487Genting Highlands 109-10George Town 12, 158-84,

160-1, 12, 23accommodation 169-75courses 166-8drinking & nightlife

178-80festivals & events 168-9food 175-8internet access 182medical services 182money 182postal services 182shopping 180-1sights 159-66street art 167tourist information 182tours 168travel to/from 182-3travel within 183-4walking tours 164, 164

George Town World Heritage Inc. Head-quarters 159

gibbons 520Golden Triangle 69-71,

76-8, 93, 72-3golf 110Gopeng 132-4Gua Charas 265Gunung Bengoh 425Gunung Gading National

Park 426-7Gunung Ledang National

Park 242Gunung Mulu National

Park 452-8, 527, 34, 526-7

park fees 453

HHari Raya Aidlifitri 26hawker stalls

George Town 177health 610-14

environmental hazards 611-13

pregnancy 614vaccinations 610womens 614

hepatitis A 611hepatitis B 611hepatitis E 611

high tea 535hiking 31-2, 33

Bako National Park 415-16

Cameron Highlands 136Endau-Rompin National

Park 248Forestry Research

Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) 109

Frasers Hill (Bukit Fraser) 110-11

guides 32Gunung Gading National

Park 426Kelabit Highlands 460Kubah National Park

421-2, 423Pulau Perhentian 295Pulau Tioman 253-4safety 254Santubong Peninsula

418Similajau National Park

442Sungai Kinabatangan

362Taman Negara 272-3weather 32

Hinduism 584, 585historic buildings

Loke Mansion 63Malay College 148Old KL Train Station 62Rumah Penghulu Abu

Seman 60St Michaels Institution

127historic sites

Astana 402Batu Bersurat 143Old Court House Com-

plex 396Sandakan Memorial

Park 351Square Tower 396

history 565-75Borneo 567-8British rule 568-9bumiputra corporate

wealth 572Dutch rule 566-7early trade 565-6East India Company 567Emergency period 570empires 565-6Federation of Malaya 570financial crisis 572-3GE13 574-5Ibrahim, Anwar 573

immigration 569Islam 567Mahathir, Mohamad

571-2Melaka Empire 566Merdeka 570-1Negrito people 565Portuguese rule 566Raffles, Stamford 568WWII 352, 569-70

hitching 608holidays 602

Brunei 487Singapore 555

homestays 364hornbills 523, 522-3horse riding 110hot springs

Air Hangat 196Poring Hot Springs 341-2

hydroelectric dams 594-5

IIndian people 577-8influenza 611insect bites 612insurance 600internet access 600internet resources 21Ipoh 125-32, 126-7

accommodation 127-9activities 127drinking 130food 129-30, 131sights 126-7tourist information 130-1travel to/from 131-2travel within 132

Islam 583, 584islands 24itineraries 27-30

JJalan Labi 482-4jellyfish 201Jerantut 269-71, 270Jerudong 475Johor 46, 235-49

accommodation 235climate 235food 85, 235highlights 236travel seasons 235

Johor Bahru 236-41, 238Jonker Walk Night Market

18, 230, 231, 18Judaism 586

KKadazan-Dusun people

579-80Kampong Ayer 17, 470, 17Kampong Buli Sim Sim 351Kampung Annah Rais

420-1Kampung Baru 63-5, 74,

89, 64Kampung Benuk 420Kampung Pulau Betong

189Kangar 212-13Kapalai 377Kapit 434-9, 435kayaking 36-7, 403, 460Kedah 46, 191-212, 191

accommodation 190climate 190food 83, 190highlights 191history 191-2

kek lapis 407Kek Lok Si Temple 170Kelabit Highlands 15,

458-65, 15Kelantan 47, 284-92

accommodation 281climate 281food 85, 281highlights 282-3travel seasons 281

Keningau 385Kenong Rimba State Park

278-9Kerangas 528Khoo Kongsi 165Kinabalu National Park

333-41, 334, 339accommodation 338-40climbing trails 335-8food 340geology 333history 333, 336orientation 333-5travel to/from 340-1

Kinta Valley 133Klang 115KLCC 57-60, 71-4, 78, 89,

93-4, 98, 58Klias 388kongsi (Chinese clan-

houses) 165Kota Belud 344-5Kota Bharu 16, 284-91,

285, 290Kota Kinabalu 316-30, 318

accommodation 322-4activities 316-20

628

IND

EX K- M

Kota Kinabalu continueddrinking & nightlife

326-7emergencies 328entertainment 327food 324-6internet access 328medical services 328money 328postal services 328shopping 327-8sights 316-20tourist information 329tours 320-2travel to/from 328-30travel within 330

Kuala Besut 300Kuala Kangsar 147-9, 148Kuala Kedah 212Kuala Lipis 277-8Kuala Lumpur 45, 50-104,

52-3, 54-5accommodation 50,

68, 101activities 66-7Bangsar Baru 75, 90-1,

94-5, 98-9, 91Brickfields 60-3, 75, 90,

98-9, 61Bukit Nanas 75-6children, travel with 68Chinatown 51-7, 68-9,

75-6, 92, 97, 54-5Chow Kit 63-5, 64climate 50courses 67day trips 115drinking & nightlife 92-5entertainment 95-6events 68festivals 68food 50, 87Golden Triangle 69-71,

76-8, 93, 72highlights 52-3, 52-3history 51internet access 99itineraries 57Kampung Baru 63-5, 74,

89, 64KLCC 57-60, 71-4, 78, 89,

93-4, 98, 58Masjid India 63-5, 74, 89,

94, 64medical services 100

money 100planning 50postal services 100shopping 96-104sights 51-66Titiwangsa 65, 74,

89, 66tourist information

99-100tours 67-8travel cards 103travel seasons 50travel to/from 100-2travel within 102, 96Tun Abdul Razak

Heritage Park 60-3, 75, 90, 61

Kuala Penyu 387Kuala Selangor 116-17Kuala Sepetang 154Kuala Terengganu 304-

9, 305Kuantan 262-4, 263Kubah National Park 421-4Kuching 14, 396-413, 398-

9, 414, 14accommodation 404-6activities 402drinking & nightlife

408-9emergencies 410festivals & events 403-4food 406-8medical services 410money 410-11shopping 409-10sights 396-402tourist information 411tours 403travel to/from 411-12travel within 412-13

Kuching Wetlands National Park 419

Kudat 345-6

LLahad Datu 365-6Lambir Hills National Park

444-5Langkawi, see Pulau

LangkawiLangkawi International

Maritime & Aerospace Exhibition 200

Langkawi night market 205language 20, 615-19

courses 67Singlish 618

Layang Layang 348-9

leeches 276, 612legal matters 600-1Legoland 237leopards 520lesbian travellers 94, 554,

600Brunei 487

Limbang Division 465-7literature 587longhouses 15, 436,

580, 15Labi Longhouses 483

Lundu 425-6

MMabul 375-6macaques 415, 520, 521MacRitchie Reservoir 510Mahsuri 197malaria 611Malay people 576Malaysia Airlines

flight MH17 562flight MH370 575

Maliau Basin Conservation Area 382-3, 16

mangroves 528, 528maps 601Marina Bay Sands 493markets 24, 99

Bangsar Sunday Market 90

Central Market 316Jonker Walk Night Mar-

ket 18, 230, 231, 18Kota Bharu 16Langkawi 205Masjid India Pasar

Malam 90Medan Niaga Satok 402Night Market 316Ranau Night Market 341Saberkas Weekend

Market 447Serikin Weekend Market

425Sunday Market 316

Masjid India 63-5, 74, 89, 94, 64

Masjid Kapitan Keling 166Masjid Selat Melaka 224massage 341Mataking 377Matang Wildlife Centre

422-4measures 601media 591medical services 610-11

traditional medicine 614

megaliths 120, 459Melaka 18, 46, 215-34

accommodation 215climate 215food 85, 215highlights 216travel seasons 215

Melaka City 217-33, 218-19

accommodation 225-8activities 224drinking & nightlife 230festivals & events 225food 228-30shopping 231sights 217-24tours 224-5

memorialsKundasang War Memo-

rial 341Limbang Raid Memorial

465-6Memorial Stone 387

Menumbok 388Merdeka Square 51, 56Mersing 242-5, 243Minangkabau people 120Miri 445-67, 446mobile phones 20, 603money 20, 21, 601-2monkeys 520, see also in-

dividial speciesmonuments

Birch Memorial Clock Tower 126

National Monument 62mosques 22

Abdul Gafoor Mosque 502-3

Acheen St Mosque 163Indian Mosque 397JameAsr Hassanil

Bolkiah Mosque 473, 5Masjid Di Raja Sultan

Suleiman 115-16Masjid India Muslim 127Masjid Jamek 56Masjid Kampung Hulu

222Masjid Kapitan Keling

166Masjid Negara 62-3Masjid Negeri 262Masjid Selat Melaka 224Masjid Ubudiah 147Masjid Zahir 210Omar Ali Saifuddien

Mosque 470-1Sultan Mosque 504

motorcycle travel 607-8

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

629IN

DEX M

- Pmountain climbing 32, 34-5MRT 104Mt Kinabalu 13, 333-41,

528, 334, 339, 13accommodation 338-40climbing trails 335-8food 340geology 333history 333, 336orientation 333-5travel to/from 340-1

Mt Trus Madi 385Muar 241-2museums 23, see also

galleriesAgnes Keith House 351Art Museum 401Asian Civilisations

Museum 493Baba & Nyonya Heritage

Museum 221Baba House 499-500Bank Negara Malaysia

Museum & Art Gallery 63, 65

Brunei Museum 471Camera Museum 162Changi Museum &

Chapel 509Chinatown Heritage

Centre 500Chinese Heritage

Museum 237-8Chinese History Museum

396Dr Sun Yat Sens Penang

Base 162Ethnology Museum

397, 401Forestry Museum 483Fort Siloso 515Fort Sylvia 435Galeri Diraja Sultan

Abdul Aziz 115Galeri Pangkor 143Galeri Sultan Abdul

Halim 210Galeria Perdana 196Heritage House 133House of Yeap Chor

Ee 163Indian Heritage Centre

503Interpretation Centre

414, 422Islamic Arts Museum 60Islamic Museum 401Istana Kenangan 147KL City Gallery 57Kompleks Muzium

Negeri Terengganu 310

Labuan Marine Museum 390

Labuan Museum 389-90Laman Padi 192Lau King Howe Memorial

Museum 430Lee Kong Chian Natural

History Museum 512Limbang Regional

Museum 465Mahathirs Birthplace

208Mari Mari Cultural

Village 317Maritime Museum &

Naval Museum 220Monsopiad Cultural

Village 317Mulu Discovery Centre

452Museum of Islamic

Civilisation 317-18Museum Sultan Abu

Bakar 260Muzium Darul Ridzuan

126Muzium Diraja 210Muzium Gopeng 133Muzium Kota Kayang

212-13Muzium Musik 57Muzium Negeri 117-18,

209Muzium Padi 212Muzium Perak 149National Museum 62National Museum of

Singapore 492-3National Textiles

Museum 57Natural History Museum

401Niah Archaeology

Museum 443P Ramlee House 166Penang Museum 162Penang War Museum

189Peranakan Museum 493Petroleum Museum 447Petrosains 60Pinang Peranakan

Mansion 159-61Prison Museum 223Royal Museum 65-6Royal Regalia Museum

471Rumah Terbalik & the 3D

Wonders Museum 343Sabah Museum 316-17Sarawak Cultural Village

417-18

Sarawak Textile Museum 397

Sibu Heritage Centre 430

Singapore Art Museum 493-4

Singapore City Gallery 501

Sultan Azlan Shah Gallery 147

Time Tunnel 136-7Tun Jugah Foundation

401music 564, 589-90music festivals

Penang Island Jazz Festival 184

Penang World Music Festival 169

Rainforest World Music Festival 404

St Jeromes Laneway Festival 518

myths & legends 197

NNational Gallery Singapore

19, 492, 19National Museum of

Singapore 492-3national parks 35, see

also gardens, parks & reserves

Bako National Park 413-17

Batang Ai National Park 429

Crocker Range National Park 384-5

Endau-Rompin National Park 247-9, 248

Gunung Gading National Park 426-7

Gunung Ledang National Park 242

Gunung Mulu National Park 452-8, 527, 34, 526-7

Kinabalu National Park 333-41

Kubah National Park 421-4

Kuching Wetlands National Park 419

Lambir Hills National Park 444-5

Niah National Park 442-4

Penang National Park 186-7

Pulau Tiga National Park 388-9

Similajau National Park 441-2

Talang-Satang National Park 428-9

Taman Negara 271-7Tanjung Datu National

Park 427-8Tunku Abdul Rahman

National Park 330-2Ulu Temburong National

Park 486-7nature 105Negeri Sembilan 45, 105,

106, 107, 117-22climate 105food 87highlights 106, 106history 107travel seasons 105

newspapers 601Niah National Park 442-4night markets 90North Borneo Railway 329Northeastern Sarawak

452-67

OOmar Ali Saifuddien

Mosque 470-1opening hours 602Orang Ulu people 579orangutans 343, 356, 357,

520, 4, 520

Ppacking lists 335paddleboating 110Pahang 47, 250-80

accommodation 250climate 250food 85, 250highlights 251travel seasons 250

palacesBlue Mansion 159, 4-5Istana Alam Shah 115Istana Besar 121Istana Iskandariah 148Istana Lama 120-1Istana Nurul Iman 473-4

palm oil 593-4Pangkor Laut 145parks & reserves 24, see

also gardens, national parks

Abdul Razak Heritage Park 63

Bukit Gemok Forest Reserve 378

630

IND

EX P- S

parks & reserves continuedBukit Patoi Recreational

Park 484-5Cape Rachado Forest

Reserve 121East Coast Park 505, 507Fort Canning Park 497Kampung Kuantan 117Kilim Karst Geoforest

Park 195-6Kinta Nature Park 132-3KL Bird Park 60, 62KL Butterfly Park 63KL Forest Eco Park 51KLCC Park 59Kota Kinabalu Wetland

Centre 317Labuan Marine Park 391Lagenda Langkawi

Dalam Taman 192MacRitchie Reservoir 510Matang Mangrove Forest

Reserve 154Miri City Fan 447Rainforest Discovery

Centre 357Rejang Esplanade 430Royal Belum State Park

154, 155Taman Alam Kuala

Selangor Nature Park 116

Taman Negeri Perlis 214Taman Wetland 113Tambunan Rafflesia

Reserve 384Wind Cave Nature

Reserve 424passport 604Pekan 260-2, 261Pelabuhan Klang 115Penang 46, 156-89, 157,

see also George Townaccommodation 156climate 156festivals & events 168-9food 83, 156, 178highlights 157history 157-8travel seasons 156

Penang Butterfly Farm 187Penang Hill 166Penang International

Dragon Boat Festival 169Perak 45, 123-55

accommodation 123

climate 123food 83, 123highlights 124history 125planning 123travel seasons 123

Peranakan Museum 493Peranakan people 578Perlis 46, 212-14, 191

accommodation 190climate 190food 83, 190highlights 191history 212

Petaling Jaya 114Petronas Towers 57, 59, 2photography 602planning 393, see also indi-

vidual regionsBrunei basics 20-1budgeting 20-1calendar of events 25-6internet resources 21itineraries 27-30Malaysia basics 20-1Malaysia, Singapore and

Bruneis regions 45-8responsible travel 596Singapore basics 20-1travel seasons 20

politics 562-4, 581-2Pom Pom 377-8population 563Port Dickson 121-2postal services 602proboscis monkeys 358,

520Protestant Cemetery 163Province Wellesley 158public holidays 602Pulau Aur 247Pulau Banggi 348Pulau Besar (Johor) 245-6Pulau Besar (Melaka)

233-4Pulau Dayang 247Pulau Jerejak 188-9Pulau Kapas 303-4Pulau Labuan 389-92Pulau Lang Tengah 301Pulau Langkawi 18, 46,

192-208, 191, 194-5, 198, 18

accommodation 190, 200-4

climate 190drinking & nightlife

206-7festivals & events 200

food 190, 204-6highlights 191internet access 207medical services 207money 207shopping 207sights 192-7tourist information 207tours 197-200travel agencies 207travel to/from 207-8travel within 208

Pulau Mantanani 348Pulau Pangkor 141-6, 142,

144Pulau Pemanggil 247Pulau Perhentian 13, 292-

301, 293, 13Pulau Rawa 246-7Pulau Redang 301-3Pulau Selirong 484Pulau Sibu 246Pulau Sipadan 11, 369, 372,

373, 11diving 374

Pulau Tiga National Park 388-9

Pulau Tinggi 246Pulau Tioman 14, 251-60,

252, 14accommodation 250,

254-9activities 252-4climate 250drinking & nightlife 259food 250, 254-9highlights 251sights 252-4travel seasons 250travel to/from 259travel within 259-60

Pulau Ubin 511Putrajaya 113-14

Rrabies 611radio 601rafflesias 527, 526rafting 321rainforests 6Ramadan 44, 471, 584raptors 122Raub 279-80religion 563, 583-6responsible travel 33, 596

diving 36hiking 33

rhinoceros 523

rickshaws 608Rimbun Dahan 109River Cruises 361-2Roach Reefs 378rock climbing 32, 34-5,

254rubber plantations 147

SSabah 47, 314-92, 315

accommodation 314climate 314food 88, 314highlights 315planning 314travel seasons 314

Sabah Agricultural Park 385-6

safety 376, 602-3hitching 608snakes 613traditional medicine 614

Sandakan 349-55, 350accommodation 352-3drinking & nightlife 353food 353sights 349-51tourist information 354tours 351-2travel to/from 354travel within 354-5

Sandakan Archipelago 359-60

Santubong Peninsula 417-19

Sapulot & Batu Punggul 386

Sarawak 47, 393-467, 394accommodation 393climate 393food 88, 393highlights 394history 396planning 393travel seasons 393

Sarawak State Assembly 402

SEA Aquarium 513-14Seberang Perai 158Sekayu Falls 312Selangor 45, 105, 106,

107-17climate 105food 87highlights 106, 106history 107planning 105travel seasons 105

Sematan 427

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

631IN

DEX S

- TSemenggoh Nature

Reserve 419-20Semporna 369-72, 370Semporna Archipelago

372-8Sepang Circuit 113Sepilok 355-9, 355Sepilok Orangutan Reha-

bilitation Centre 15, 355-6, 15

Seremban 117-20, 118Seribuat Archipelago

245-7Serikin 425shadow puppetery 588-9Shah Alam 114shopping 24

language 617Sibu 430-4Signal Hill Observatory

Platform 316Similajau National Park

441-2Singamata 375Singapore 48, 488-560,

490-1accommodation 488,

529-33, 553activities 515-16Botanic Gardens 504-5,

539-40, 546, 552business hours 555CBD, the 499-501, 531-2,

535-7, 543-5, 498-9Chinatown 499-501, 531-

2, 535-7, 543-5, 550, 498-9, 508

climate 488Colonial District 489-99,

529-31, 534-5, 542-3, 549-50, 494-5

consulates 553courses 518customs regulations 553Dempsey Hill 504-5,

539-40, 546, 552disabilities, travellers

with 556discounts 553drinking & nightlife

542-7electricity 553embassies 553emergencies 553entertainment 547-8festivals & events 518,

529food 87, 488, 533-41,

554gay travellers 554high tea 535

highlights 490-1history 489holidays 555internet access 554Kampong Glam 503-4,

532, 538, 545, 551language 618legal matters 554lesbian travellers 554Little India 501-3, 532,

537-8, 545, 551, 502Marina Bay 489-99,

529-31, 534-5, 542-3, 549-50, 494-5

medical services 554money 554-5Orchard Road 504,

532-3, 538-9, 545-6, 551-2, 506

postal services 555Quays, the 489-99,

529-31, 534-5, 542-3, 549-50, 494-5

Sentosa Island 513-15, 533, 541, 547, 514

shopping 548-53sights 489-515teahouses 543telephone services

555-6Tiong Bahru 505tourist information 556tours 518travel seasons 488travel to/from 556-7travel within 558-60visas 556walks 517, 517

Singapore Botanic Gardens 504-5

Singapore Zoo 509-10, 4Singlish 618Sipadan 372-3snorkelling 13, 36, 373

Cherating 265Pulau Langkawi 199Pulau Perhentian 294-5Pulau Tioman 252-3weather 36

spasKuala Lumpur 66-7Langkawi 197Penang 193

Sri Menanti 120-1Stadthuys 217state parks 35street art 23-4, 65, 167, 23street food 11, 92, 151, 326Sungai Kinabatangan

360-5

surfing 37Cherating 265-6Sabah 346

sustainability 596swans 430

TTabin Wildlife Reserve 369Taiping 149-53, 150Talang-Satang National

Park 428-9Taman Negara 16, 271-7,

272, 17Tambunan 384-5Tanjung Datu National Park

427-8tapirs 523, 522Tasik Chini 260, 595Tawau 378-81, 379Tawau Hills Park 381-2taxis 608-9tea 140, 180, 543tea plantations

Boh Sungei Palas Tea Estate 139

Cameron Bharat Tea Plantation 136

Sabah Tea Garden 341teahouses 543telephone services 20, 603Teluk Bahang 186-8Teluk Chempedak 265Teluk Kumbar 189Teluk Nipah 143, 144Temerloh 268-9temples 22

Arulmigu Sri Raja Kalliamman 237

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 501

Buddhist Maha Vihara 63

Che Sui Khor Moral Uplifting Society 319

Chinese Temple 439Dhammikarama

Burmese Buddhist Temple 170

Foo Ling Kong 143Gua Kok Look Tong 129Hainan Temple 163-5Hiang Thian Siang

Temple 397Hin Ho Bio 397Hong San Si Temple

396-7Kek Lok Si Temple 170Kuan Yin Teng 170Lin Je Kong Temple 143Perak Tong 129

Puh Toh Tze Buddhist Temple 319

Puu Jih Shih Temple 351Sam Kow Tong Tem-

ple 63Sam Poh Footprint

Temple 189Sam Poh Temple 136Sam Poh Tong 129Sam Sing Kung 351San Ching Tian Temple

447Sin Sze Si Ya Temple 56Sri Mahamariamman

Temple 51Sri Mariamman Temple

165-6, 500Sri Tehndayuthapany

Swamy 137Sri Veeramakaliamman

Temple 501Temple Cave 107Teochew Temple 165Thean Hou Temple 65Tua Pek Kong Temple

430, 447Wat Buppharam 170Wat Chayamangkala-

ram 170Wat Nikrodharam 210

Tempurung 387-8Tenom 385Terengganu 47, 304-13

accommodation 281climate 281food 85, 281highlights 282-3travel seasons 281

Thaipusam 25, 108, 168tigers 520, 520-1time 603Tioman Island 47Tiong Bahru 505Tip of Borneo 346-7Titiwangsa 65, 74, 89toads 527, 527tourist information 603tours

adventure 200bicycle 168boat 199bus 67-8caves 108diving & snorkelling 199food 67, 168Putrajaya Sightseeing

113walking (George Town)

168train travel 605, 606, 609

632

IND

EX T- Z

travel permits 437travel to/from Malaysia

605-6travel within Malaysia

606-9trekking 15, 322, 341,

367-8, 382-3, 455-6, 462-4, 466

guides 453, 463trishaws 232, 560, 608Tuaran 343-4Tun Abdul Razak Heritage

Park 60-3, 75, 90, 61Tunku Abdul Rahman

National Park 330-1turtles 524, 525Tutong 482TV 601

UUlu Temburong National

Park 486-7Unesco World Heritage Site

(Penang) 159Universal Studios 514-15

Vvacations 602vaccinations 610views 22visas 20, 604

Singapore 556visual arts 591volunteering 254, 294, 357,

423, 604

Wwalking 109walking routes 60walking tours 67, 152, 316

George Town 164, 164Kampung Baru 63

water monitor lizards 331waterfalls 112

Durian Perangin 196Sekayu Falls 312Telaga Tujuh 195Temurun Waterfall 195

weather 20, 25-6, 50, 393, see also individual regions

weights 601Wesak (Vesak) Day 25, 292Western Sarawak 413-30Weston 388white-water rafting 36-7wildlife 6, 32, 520-5, 593,

see also individial species

wildlife sanctuaries & reserves

Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre 356-7

Jurong Bird Park 512Kudat Turtle Conserva-

tion Society 346Labuan Bird Park 390-1Labuk Bay Proboscis

Monkey Sanctuary 357-8

Matang Wildlife Centre 422-4

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre 355-6

Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve 510-11

Turtle Sanctuary 266-7wildlife smuggling 593Wind Cave Nature Reserve

424women in Malaysia, Singa-

pore & Brunei 581womens health 614women travellers 604wreck diving 391

YYap Kongsi 165

ZZoo Negara 109zoos

Langkawi Bird Paradise 192

Melaka Zoo 233Night Safari 510River Safari 511-12Singapore Zoo 509-10Zoo Negara 109Zoo Taiping & Night

Safari 149

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

633N

OTES

634

NO

TES

635N

OTES

636

NO

TES

637

Send your Lonely Planet in the Wild photos to social@lonelyplanet.com We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

EMM

A N

EUV

ON

EN

LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

638

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdAustin BushPenang Austin came to Thailand in 1999 on a language scholarship, and has re-mained in Southeast Asia ever since. This is his second time contributing to Ma-laysia, Singapore & Brunei, a gig that is arguably Lonely Planets most delicious. Austin is a native of Oregon and a writer and photographer who often focuses on food; samples of his work can be seen at www.austinbushphotography.com. Au-tin also wrote the Eat Like a Local and Regional Specialities features of this book.

Anita IsalskaMelaka, Perak Anita is a freelance travel journalist, editor and copywriter. Former-ly a Lonely Planet digital editor, Anita surprised no one when she swapped office life for taste-testing street food and prowling beach resorts. Previous Malaysia travels took Anita from leechy Sabah hikes to Ipohs red bean frapps. Returning to research her most-adored regions, Perak and Melaka, was a joy. Anita writes about travel, adventure, food and culture for a host of international publications;

check out some of her work at www.anitaisalska.com.

Robert Scott KellySelangor & Negeri Sembilan A resident of Kuala Lumpur since 2013, Robert en-joyed the opportunity to explore the states surrounding his home in more detail to update this guidebook. His favourite discoveries: the megaliths of Negeri Sem-bilan and the traditional wood houses of Kampung Pantai. Robert, a freelance writer, photographer, documentary filmmaker and, now, fledgling podcaster, has also contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Kuala Lumpur, Taiwan, China,

Alaska, and Tibet. Check out his latest work on www.robertscottkelly.com.

Simon RichmondKuala Lumpur Simon first travelled in the region back in the early 1990s. A lot has changed since, but both Malaysia and Singapore remain among Simons favour-ite destinations for their easily accessible mix of cultures, landscapes, adventures and, crucially, delicious food. This is the fifth time the award-winning travel writer and photographer has written for Lonely Planets Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guide. Hes also the author of Lonely Planets Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang

guide as well as a shelf-load of other titles for this and other publishers. Read more about Simons travels at www.simonrichmond.com and on Twitter and Instagram @simonrichmond. Simon also wrote most of the Plan Your Trip section and the Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book.

Richard WatersSabah Richard is an award-winning journalist and writes about travel for The Daily Telegraph, The Independent and Sunday Times, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, Elle and National Geographic Traveller. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds, UK, and when hes not travelling, loves surfing and diving. Exploring Sabah was an absolute joy, his favourite moments being watching sharks in Si-padan, and seeing the sun rise over the jungle in the Danum Valley. He also writes

a family wellbeing, adventure blog called Soul Tonic for Sanlam Bank. Check it out on: www.sanlam.co.uk/Media/Blogs/Soul-Tonic.asp

Read more about Anita at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anitatravels

Read more about Robert at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/RobertScottKelly

Read more about Austin at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/osten_th

Read more about Simon at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/simonrichmond

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 thats all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week theyd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tonys belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98313th edition August 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 029 1 Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSIsabel AlbistonLangkawi, Kedah & Perlis; Sarawak; Brunei Since her first trip to Malaysia, trav-elling the length of the peninsula by train on an overland journey from Singapore to Nepal, Isabel has grown to love shimmying across rickety bamboo bridges on rainforest hikes. The pursuit of laksa keeps luring her back and she can now confirm Sarawak to be the clear winner in the countrywide contest for the best broth. Isabel is a journalist who has written for a number of newspapers and

magazines including the UKs Daily Telegraph.

Brett AtkinsonEast Coast Islands, Kelantan & Terengganu Following past sojourns in the west of Malaysia, this was Bretts first exploration of the peninsulas eastern edge. Highlights included island hopping from the Perhentians to Pulau Kapas, the street food and night markets of Kota Bharu, and the compact heritage appeal of Chinatown in Kuala Terengganu. Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand and has covered more than 50 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food

writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his most recent work and upcoming travels.

Greg BenchwickJohor, Pahang & Tioman Island Gregs been writing about travel both near and far for the better part of the past two decades. Hes written dozens of travel guides for Lonely Planet, and is a recognised expert on sustainable tourism. For this edition, he jungle-boated down from Taman Negara, got nuclear drunk in his search for the perfect bar in Cherating and nearly fell off the planet in Tioman.

Cristian BonettoSingapore Cristian has been chowing his way across Singapore for well over a decade. Countless calories later, the Australian-born writer remains deeply fascinated by the Little Red Dots dramatic evolution. To date, Cristian has con-tributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet guides, including New York City, Italy, Denmark and both the Singapore city and pocket guides. His musings have also appeared in a string of publications, including Britains The Telegraph and San

Franciscos 7X7. Follow Cristian on Twitter (@CristianBonetto) and Instagram (rexcat75).

Read more about Isabel at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/IsabelAlbiston

Read more about Brett at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/BrettAtkinson

Read more about Greg at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/gregbenchwick

Read more about Cristian at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/CristianBonetto

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Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

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IndexMap LegendOur Writers