behind the scenes - lonely...

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Ana van Es, Jilles van Dam, Mahmoud Muna, Mar-gaux Thierrée, Naomi Jenkins, Neal Hirst, Teresa Lampropoulos.

AUTHOR THANKSDaniel RobinsonSpecial thanks to (north to south): Talal (Mt Hermon); Clery (Metulla); Irit Steinberg (Hula Nature Reserve); Meni Tzuberi (Katzrin); Cha-noch (Yehudiyya); Ido Shaked (Gamla); Doron (Bikta b’Kadita); Riki & Dov Ruckenstein and Moshe Tov Kreps (Tzfat ); Tal Ben David (Rosh Pina); Etha & Erwin Frenkel (Korazim); Lilach (Majrase); Mariana Bravo (Magdala); Nissim Mazig (Kursi); Moshe Ohz (Tiberias); Ayala & Ofer Markman, Roni Barziv and Mira Lugasi (Haifa); Egi (Hammat Gader); Maoz Yinon, Linda Hallel, Sami Jabali & Silke, Emile Emran, Abed and Abu Ayyad of the White Mosque, and Tariq Bsoul of Nazarene Transport & Tourism (Nazareth); Vered (Belvoir); Sarinah Kalb and Leo, Bella and Shoshana (Tel Aviv); Noam (Ein Feshkha); Michal and Sivan (Ein Gedi Nature Reserve); Shai (Ein Gedi Field School); Kfir

(Masada); Sarah (Ein Bokek tourist office); Asaf Madmony (Ne’ot HaKikar); and, most especially, my wife, Rachel, and son, Yair, for their unwavering support, understanding and patience.

Orlando CrowcroftI would like to thank the staff and volunteers at the Cinema Guest House and the Freedom Theatre in Jenin for their insights and advice on their city – past, present and future. Yazeed Abu Khdeir in Jerusalem, my fixer and friend and a partner on West Bank road trips too numerous to mention. Layla Torres in Bethle-hem. All the staff at Area D Hostel in Ramallah and International Friends Youth Hostel in Nablus; my homes away from home during the research of this book. Hazem Balousha and Heidi Levine, who looked after me in Gaza. Lastly every West Bank taxi driver, coffee seller or shopkeeper who went out of their way to put me on the right path when I pulled up and begged directions in broken Arabic.

Virginia MaxwellMany thanks to Peter Handsaker and Pat Yale, who accompanied me on two research trips to Israel for this job, as well as to my expert co- author Daniel Robinson and to locals Mira Mar-cus, Oren Mor, Yael Biedermann, Maoz Inon, Yaron Burgin, Naomi Dvora, Gal Mor, Lee Balot, Yoash Limon and Omer from the Overstay.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

428

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Jenny WalkerReturning to Petra is always a great pleas-ure, not just on account of the spectacular ancient city, but also because the people of Wadi Musa and Umm Sayoun live up to their reputation for ‘heart and wit’. Thanks as ever to all Jordanian friends who have helped over the years of engagement with this chapter and to my beloved husband, Sam Owen, who accompanied and supported as ever during research and write-up.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Hisham’s Palace, West Bank, Vdovin Ivan/Alamy.Illustrations: pp50-1 by Javier Zarracina; pp338-9 by Michael Weldon.

THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Israel & the Pales-tinian Territories guidebook was researched and written by Daniel Robinson (coor-dinating author), Orlando Crowcroft, Virginia Maxwell and Jenny Walker. The pre-vious edition was written by Daniel Robinson (coordinat-

ing author), Michael Kohn, Dan Savery Raz and Jenny Walker. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Helen ElferProduct Editors Kate Chapman, Samantha ForgeBook Designer Cam Ashley

Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Katie Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Kate Evans, Kirsten Rawlings Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Elizabeth Jones, Kate Kiely, Ilana Kosky, Anne Mason, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Katie O’Connell, Lonely Planet Cartography, Samantha Tyson

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 429

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1948 Arab-Israeli War 355

AAbbas, Mahmoud 221, 251,

345, 380Abdullah, King 357Abu Dis 261Abu Ghosh 103accommodation 401-2, see

also individual locationslanguage 421, 423price ranges 402

Acre, see Akkoactivities 22-5, 402-4, see

also individual activitiesAfrican Hebrew Israelites

366Agamon HaHula 236Agnon, Shmuel Yosef 386Aida Refugee Camp 259air travel 412-13Akhziv 182Akhziv National Park 182Akko (Acre) 14, 175-80, 178,

2, 14, 192Al-Aqsa Mosque 49, 51, 60,

68, 84, 350, 51Al-Bireh 262-5Al-Haram ash-Sharif 9, 47-

52, 348, 349, 350, 50-1Al-Khader Church 262Allenby, Edmund 351alpacas 314, 316Al-Qasaba 274Amichai, Yehuda 386amusement parks, see also

water parksKfar Blum Kayaks 239King’s City & Funtasia 322Mini Israel 104Ya’ar HaAyalim 245

Ani’am Artists Village 244

animals 392-3, see also individual species

Appelfeld, Aharon 386aquariums

Underwater Observatory Marine Park 320

Arabic 423-4Arad 305Arafat, Yasser 263-4, 357-8,

379Arava, the 317-20Arch of Titus 348archaeological digs 60, 215,

402, 410-11archaeological sites 332-3,

see also fortresses & palaces; ruins

Ancient Bathhouse 188Ancient Katzrin Park 241Ancient Synagogue (Ein

Gedi) 289Beit She’an National

Park 198Bethsaida 215Capernaum 214Crusader City 172Herodian Quarter

Museum 61Jerusalem Archaeological

Park & Davidson Centre 59-60

Kursi National Park 218Magdala 208-9Masada 296Mey Kedem Tunnel 170Sebastiya 275-6Tel Arad National Park 305Tel Be’er Sheva 309Tel Dan Nature Reserve

238Tel Hatzor 235-6Tel Maresha 104Tell Balata 275

archery 314architecture 108, 133

Bauhaus (International) 15, 108, 110, 155, 15

Beit Jalad (Jerusalem) 78

Crusader 62, 167, 199Mamluk 63, 273Ottoman 273

area codes 19, 408Armageddon, see MegiddoArmenian ceramics 64art galleries 227, see also

museumsChelouche Gallery 114Ein Hod Gallery 168Ethiopian Arts Workshop

306General Safed Exhibition

226Helena Rubenstein

Pavilion 110Herzliya Museum of

Modern Art 145Ilana Goor Museum 118Museum on the Seam 70-2Museum Without Walls

155Negev Artists’ House 306Negev Museum of Art 306Rubin Museum 110Spice Route Quarter 313Studio Magal 168Tel Aviv Museum of Art

110, 133Tiberias Open Air

Museum 202Yad Gertrude Kraus 168

arts 386-91Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue

223Ashkenazim 349, 363assassinations 277, 281,

282, 357, 358, 359astronomy 314ATMs 406Avdat 308Ayn Hawd 167-9

BBaha’i faith 156Baha’i Gardens (Akko

area) 180

Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12, 150-3, 12

Balfour Declaration 353Banias Nature Reserve 246Banksy 256Basilica of the Annunciation

185, 193basilicas, see churches,

basilicas & chapelsbathhouses 336bats 392Battle of Ein Jalut 201beaches 20, 168, 215, 2, 10,

132, 294-5Alma Beach 121Bat Galim Beach 158Beach Bar 173Bograshov Beach 121Coral Beach Nature

Reserve 322Dolphinarium Beach 124Eilat 322-3Ein Bokek Beach 298Ein Gedi Beach 289Frischmann Beach 121Gordon Beach 121HaDekel (Palm) Beach

323Hilton Beach 121Hof HaCarmel Beach 158Metzitzim Beach 121Mineral Beach 293Netanya 146Nordau Beach 121North Beach 323Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Yafo)

121, 132Village Beach 323

Beatles, the 387Bedouin people 365beer 369

breweries 242festivals 86, 266Taybeh Beer Brewery 266

Be’er Sheva 305-7, 306Beit Alpha Synagogue 199

430

IND

EX B-D

Beit She’an 15, 198-9, 15Beit She’an Valley 198-201Beit She’arim 165Belvoir 199Bethlehem 16, 253-60,

254, 16checkpoints 261

Bethsaida 215Bezalel Academy of Arts &

Design 389bicycling, see cyclingBikta BeKadita 234birds 394birdwatching 392, 394,

402-3Eilat 325Hula Valley 236

Black Hebrews, see African Hebrew Israelites

boat travel 413-17books 344, 393

environment 393health 419history 351, 354politics 380religion 384

border crossings 30-3breakfast 368, 370British mandate 44, 73, 97,

150, 280, 353-4budget 19bus travel 414, 416business hours 407-8

West Bank 258

CCaesarea 13, 171-5, 172, 13calendars 23Caliph Omar 350-1camel riding 309, 314,

324, 336camping 401-2

Dead Sea 293Galilee, Lower 188Petra 342Sea of Galilee 215Sodom 301

Capernaum 214car travel 414-16

4WDing 317road rules 415-16safety 398Shabbat 414

Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah 167

Caro Synagogue 223cash 18, 19, 406-7cathedrals, see churches,

basilicas & chapelscaves

Beit-Guvrin 103Cave of Machpelah 273Cave of the 40 Holy

Monks 188Dodim Cave 289Elijah’s Cave 157-8Flour Cave 290Maresha 103Mt Sodom 301Rosh HaNikra Grottoes

182Soreq Cave 103

celebrity chefs 131cell phones 18, 408Centre International Marie

de Nazareth 188-9ceramics 64, 168, 273Chagall, Marc 84chapels, see churches,

basilicas & chapelscheckpoints 261cheese 225, 311, 370children, travel with 34-5chocolate 244Christian peoples 365-6Christianity 350-1, 383-4Christmas (Orthodox) 22Christmas (Western) 25churches, basilicas &

chapels, see also monasteries

Al-Khader Church 262Basilica of Jesus the

Adolescent 189Basilica of the

Annunciation 185Basilica of the

Transfiguration 196Cana Catholic Wedding

Church 195Cana Greek Orthodox

Wedding Church 195Chapel of the Ascension

68Christ Church 54Church & Monastery of

the Apostles 203Church & Monastery of

the Dormition 65Church of All Nations 69Church of John the

Baptist 58Church of Mary

Magdalene 69Church of St John the

Baptist 84

Church of St Nico demus & St Joseph of Arimathea 147

Church of St Peter of Gallicantu 66

Church of the Angels 260

Church of the Ascension 68

Church of the Holy Sepulchre 54-8, 55, 82, 212

Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves & Fishes 209, 213

Church of the Nativity 255, 212

Church of the Pater Noster 68

Church of the Primacy of St Peter 209

Church of the Redeemer (Jerusalem) 58

Church of the Resurrection 103

Church of the Visitation 84

Franciscan Monastery & Church 196

Greek Orthodox Church of St George 277

Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation 187

Jacob’s Well 275Lutheran Christmas

Church 255Milk Grotto Chapel 257Monastery of the Twelve

Apostles 214Mount of the Beatitudes

209-14Our Lady of the Ark of

the Covenant 103Russian Chapel of the

Ascension 68Russian Compound 73St Andrew’s Church 77St Anne’s Church 62St Catherine’s Church

256St George’s Cathedral 73St James’ (Jacques’)

Cathedral 64St Mark’s Chapel 64St Mary’s Syrian

Orthodox Church 255St Peter’s Church 202Synagogue-Church 188Tabgha 209, 213

Church of the Holy Sepulchre 11, 54-8, 55, 11, 212

cinema 390-1cinemas 86, 163, 217,

265, 390Circassian people 365City of David 66-7climate 18, 198, see also

individual regionsclothing 74consulates 405Constantine the Great 41,

350, 384courses

cooking 171, 336Kabbalah 228language 85, 122, 158

cowboys 245cranes 236Crusades, the 350-1culture 373-6

Jewish 362-4currency 18customs regulations 404cycling 9, 403, 413-14, 416

Arava, the 317, 319Coexistence Trail 232Cycling Tel Aviv 124internet resources 403Kiryat Shmona 240Mifgash HaOfanayim 240Mitzpe Ramon 314Neot HaKikar 301Sde Boker 311Sea of Galilee 204Tel Aviv 121

DDaliyat al-Karmel 166-7Dalton Plateau, see Ramat

DaltonDAM 388Damari, Shoshana 387Damascus Gate 53, 62dance 388dangers, see safe travelDarwish, Mahmoud 357,

386David, King 65, 346Dead Sea 9, 38, 285-302,

286, 2, 9, 294-5climate 285festivals 302food 285geography 287geology 395highlights 286history 287planning 285travel seasons 285travel to/from 287-91


431IN

DEX D

-HDead Sea Scrolls 16, 79,

292, 17Dead Sea Works 300development 375, 395-6Dheisheh Refugee Camp

259diarrhoea 419Diaspora, Jewish 349directions 422, 423-4disabilities, travellers

with 409discount cards 35, 155,

395, 404diving & snorkelling 404

Caesarea 173Coral Beach Nature

Reserve 322Eilat 322, 323, 324

documentaries 344Dome of the Rock 9,

49-52, 8-9drinking 21drinking water 420drinks, see wine; beerdriving, see car traveldrumming 124Druze flag 365Druze people 247, 366

EEgypt

border crossings 32Eilat 320-9, 321, 322-3

safe travel 328Ein Bokek 298-300Ein Feshkha (Einot Tsukim)

292Ein Gedi 288-91Ein Gedi Nature Reserve

288-9Ein Hod 167-9Ein Kinya 246Ein Zivan 244electricity 404Elijah’s Cave 157-8embassies 405emergencies 19

language 422, 424En Avdat National Park 310environment 392-6environmental issues

395-6Ethiopian Jews 364etiquette

clothing 74, 411events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 19

FFatah 357, 359, 360, 380Fayyad, Salam 375felafel 368, 370festivals & events 22-5,

370-1Armenian Genocide

Remembrance Day 23Christmas (Orthodox) 22Christmas (Western) 25Easter 23Eid al-Adha 25Eid al-Fitr 24Gay Pride Parade 24Good Friday 22, 23Hanukkah 25Holiday of the Holy

Days 25Holocaust Memorial

Day 23International Labour

Day 23Islamic New Year 25Israel Festival 24Israel Independence

Day 23Lag BaOmer 24Land Day 22Leilat al-Mi’raj 23Lights in Jerusalem 86Mimouna 23Naksa Day 24Naqba Day 24New Year’s Day 22Oktoberfest 25Palestinian Prisoners

Day 23Passover 22Prophet’s Birthday 25Purim 22Ramadan 24Rosh HaShanah 24Shavuot 24Simhat Torah 25Sukkot 25Tish’a B’Av 24Tu Bishvat 22Yitzhak Rabin Memorial

Day 25Yom HaZikaron 23Yom Kippur 25

film festivals 86films 344, 390First Intifada 358First Lebanon War 357Five Pillars of Islam, the

385Flavius, Josephus 348folk music 388

food 368-72, 405festivals & celebrations

370-1halal 369kosher 369language 422, 424price ranges 405

football 139, 344fortresses & palaces, see

also archaeological sites; ruins

Banias Nature Reserve palace complex 246

Cave Fortress 208Citadel Park 226Crusader fortress 199Herodium 260, 262Hisham’s Palace 268Masada 12, 296-8,

348, 12Nimrod Fortress 10,

246, 10Freedom Theatre 277

GGalilee, Lower 37, 183-208,

184, 192-3climate 183highlights 184planning 183travel seasons 183

Galilee, Upper 37, 220-40, 222

climate 220highlights 222planning 220travel seasons 220

Gamla Nature Reserve 243-4

Gangaroo Animal Park 200gay travellers 373, 405

festivals 24, 123Jerusalem 97Tel Aviv 138

Gay Pride Parade 24Gaza City 283-4Gaza Strip 37, 279-84, 280

history 280-2travel to/from 281

goats 311Golan Heights 10, 37, 240-

8, 222, 10highlights 222planning 220

government 377-81Great Jewish Revolt 348Greek Orthodox Church of

the Annunciation 187Grossman, David 386

HHaaretz 399Hadrian 348Haifa 36, 149-66, 149, 151,

152-3accommodation 148,

158-60activities 158climate 148courses 158drinking & nightlife

162-3entertainment 163festivals 158food 148, 160-2highlights 149planning 148shopping 163sights 150-8tourist information 164travel seasons 148travel to/from 164-6travel within 166

Hamas 344-5, 360-1, 379-81

Hamat Gader 219Hanukkah 25Haredim 74headcoverings 383health 418-20

books 419insurance 406

heat exhaustion 419Hebrew 123, 421-3Hebron 272-4Herod the Great 348, 349Herodium 260, 262Herod’s Gate 53Herzl, Theodor 353Herzliya 144-5Hezbollah 360Hezekiah’s Tunnel 67High Place of Sacrifice

332hiking 20, 247, 403-4

Arbel National Park 208Banias Nature Reserve

246Bethsaida 215Coexistence Trail 232Dead Sea 285desert hikes 324-5Desert Plateau Hikes

290Ein Gedi 288En Avdat National Park

310Israel National Trail 240Jesus Trail 188

432

IND

EX H-K

hiking continuedKinneret Trail 216Masada 297Meshushim (Hexagons)

Pool 243Mitzpe Ramon 314Mt Meron Nature

Reserve 231Mt Sodom 300-1Mt Tabor 196Mt Tzfachot Circular

Trail 324Nahal Iyyun Nature

Reserve 238Nakhal Gishron 329Negev region 317Neot HaKikar 301New Upper Yehudiya

Canyon Trail 243Petra 333safety 247, 290, 328Swamp Trail 236Upper Zavitan Canyon

Trail 243Wadi Arugot 290Wadi Bokek 298Wadi Daraja 293Wadi David 289Yehudiya Nature Reserve

242historic buildings

Bet Gabriel 217Khan al-Umdan 177Muqata’a 263-4

historic sitesAncient Galilee Boat 209Atlit ‘Illegal’ Immigrant

Detention Camp 167Cardo 173Cardo Maximus 60-1City Walls (Akko) 176Herodian Amphitheatre

& Bathhouse 173Independence Hall 114Knights Halls (Akko) 176Manger Square & Old

City 255Mauristan 58Nabi Musa 268, 270Old City Jaffa 118, 133Pool of Al-Anazia 146Promontory Palace 173Ramparts Walk 54Roman Theatre 173Rosh Pina Pioneers

Restoration Site 234

Shouting Hill 247Wadi Qelt 268White Tower 147Yerushalayim Street 226

history 346-611948 Arab-Israeli War 44,

84, 146, 251, 355Battle of Ein Jalut 201books 351, 354British mandate 44, 73,

97, 150, 280, 353-4Byzantine Empire 350Christianity 351Crusades, the 350-1First Intifada 358First Lebanon War 357Great Jewish Revolt 348Hamas control 344-5,

360-1, 379-81Hasmonean dynasty 348Hellenistic period 347Holocaust, the 349, 354,

355, 382Islam 350-1Oslo Accords 358-60,

379Ottoman Empire 351-3Palestine, partitioning

of 354-5prehistory 346-7Roman Empire 348-50Second Intifada 359Six Day War 356Yom Kippur War 356Zionism 123, 352, 353,

354hitching 416Holocaust, the 23, 382

history 349, 354, 355memorials 80-1, 181

horse riding 215, 245, 336Hula Valley 236-7hummus 368

Iibexes 16, 154, 219, 245,

288, 310, 16ice skating 238immigration 410Incense Route – Desert

Cities 308insect bites & stings

419-20insurance 406internet access 406internet resources 19

environmental 396health 418

irrigation 394

Islam 350-1, 384-5Israel Defense Forces

(IDF) 374Israel Festival 24Israel Independence

Day 23Israel Museum 16, 79-80,

17, 83itineraries 26-9

JJaffa (Yafo) 118, 127-8, 135-

6, 138, 140-1, 119, 133Jalameh 261Janco, Marcel 389Jenin 194, 277-8Jericho 266-72Jerusalem 36, 40-102,

42-3, 103-4, 82-3accommodation 40,

87-92Armenian Quarter 63-5children, travel with 86Christian Quarter 54-8City Centre 73-5, 89-90,

93-5, 96-8, 76-7climate 40courses 85drinking & nightlife 96-8East Jerusalem 69-73,

88-9, 93, 99Ein Kerem 81-5entertainment 53, 98festivals & events 86-7food 40, 92-6German Colony 77-8, 91,

95, 98Givat Ram & Museum

Row 79-80, 96Har Hazikaron 80-1highlights 42-3history 41, 44-5internet resources 100itineraries 45Jaffa Gate 52-4Jewish Quarter 58-62Kidron Valley 66-8King David (David

HaMelekh) Street 75-7Mamilla & Yemin Moshe

90, 95Mea She’arim 73-5Mount of Olives 68-9Muslim Quarter 62-3Nahla’ot 75New City 99Old City 45-52, 87-8,

92-3, 96, 98-9, 46-7, 82

planning 40

Rehavia 78-9, 91Romema & Mekor

Baruch 91-2safe travel 99-100shopping 98-9sights 45-85Talpiot 79tourist information 100tours 85-6travel seasons 40travel to/from 101travel within 101-2

Jerusalem Hills region 100Jerusalem Syndrome 60Jesus of Nazareth 348, 350Jesus Trail 188Jewish peoples

Ashkenazim 349, 363Ethiopian Jews 364Mizrahim 363-4Sephardim 349, 362

Jewish settlements 253, 345

Jezreel Valley 198-201Jezreel Valley Railway 218Jish 232-3Jisr az-Zarka 170-1Jordan 332

border crossings 31-2Jordan River 239Judaism 374, 382-3

ultra-Orthodox 74, 374, 375, 383

KKabbalah 352Kafr Kana 194-5Katzrin 240-2kayaking 239Kfar Kama 197-8Kfar Kisch 197Kfar Tavor 196-7Khan Younis 284kibbutzim 318, 373

accommodation 402Ein Harod 200Ein Zivan 244Kibbutz Ein Gedi 289,

291Kibbutz Ketura 318Kibbutz Lohamei

HaGeta’ot 181Kibbutz Lotan 319Kibbutz Neot Semadar

317Kibbutz Sde Boker 309Merom Golan 245volunteering 411

King David 65, 346


433IN

DEX K

-MKing Solomon 346-7Kiryat Shmona 237Kishon, Ephraim 390Knesset 80, 377-8Knights Halls (Akko) 176Korazim National Park

214-15

LLadino 123, 362Lakiya 309land crossings 30-3languages 18, 421-4

Arabic 423-4courses 85, 122, 158Hebrew 123, 421-3Ladino 123, 362Yiddish 74, 123, 363,

364Last Supper 65Latrun 104Law of Return 363legal matters 406Leishmaniasis 418lesbian travellers 373, 405

festivals 24, 123Jerusalem 97Tel Aviv 138

Lights in Jerusalem 86literature 386-7Little Petra 342lookouts 228, 238, 244

High Place of Sacrifice 332

Makhtesh Ramon 313Mt Sodom 300Quneitra Viewpoint 244

Lot’s Wife 300Lower Galilee, see Galilee,

Lowerluggage 408

MMa’alot Olei HaGardom

228Maccabee, Judah 347Mahane Yehuda Market

73, 82Majdal Shams 247-8Makhtesh HaGadol 312Makhtesh HaKatan 312Makhtesh Ramon 16,

312-16, 16makhteshim 312malls 140, 300, 327-8Mamshit 308maps 406Mar Saba Monastery 262

markets 17, 140, 17Akko Souq 177Bedouin Market 307Bethlehem souq 255Carmel Market 110Flea Market 118, 163Levinsky Spice Market

114Mahane Yehuda Market

73, 82Old Port Farmers Market

115Souq al-Qattanin 63Turkish Market 163

Masada 12, 296-8, 348, 12Mea She’arim 73-5measures 411media 272, 399medical services 418, 420Megiddo 174Meir, Golda 357, 377Merom Golan 245Metula 237-8Metzukei Dragot 293Mey Kedem 170Middle East Respiratory

Syndrome 418-19Midreshet Ben-Gurion 309military service 374minefields 241, 400Mineral Beach 293Mini Israel 104missiles, see rocketsMitzpe Ramon 312-16, 313Mizrahim 363-4mobile phones 18, 408Mohammed, prophet 350,

384-5monasteries, see

also churches, basilicas & chapels

Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah 167

Ethiopian Monastery 58Latrun Monastery 104Mar Saba Monastery

262Monastery of the

Cross 80Monastery of the

Qurantul 267St George’s Monastery

268Stella Maris Carmelite

Monastery 157money 18, 19, 406-7moneychangers 407Montfort 181-2Moshav Amirim 231-2

mosquesAl-Amari Mosque 204Al-Aqsa Mosque 49, 51,

60, 68, 84, 350, 51Al-Bahr Mosque 203Al-Jarina Mosque 156Al-Jazzar Mosque 176-7Al-Kebir Mosque 274Great Mosque 147Hassan Bek Mosque 118Ibrahimi Mosque 273,

213Istiqlal Mosque 156Masjid Jenin al-Kabir 277Mosque of Omar 257Mosque of the Ascen-

sion 68White Mosque 188

mosquitoes 419motorcycle travel 414-16Mount of Olives 68-9Mount of the Beatitudes

15, 209-14, 15mountain biking 236, 301,

314, 403Mt Avital 244Mt Bental 245Mt Eleazar 297Mt Gerizim 276Mt Gilboa 199Mt Hermon 248Mt Shlomo 329Mt Sodom 300-1Mt Tabor 196museums 111, see also art

galleriesAaronsohn House NILI

Museum 169Acre Underground

Prisoners Museum 177Alone on the Walls

Museum 61Be’er Avraham 306Beit Lohamei HaGeta’ot

181Ben-Gurion Museum 115Ben-Gurion’s Desert

Home 309Bialik Museum 110Bible Lands Museum 80Burnt House 61Circassian Heritage

Center 197Citadel (Tower of David)

52-3, 82Clandestine Immigration

& Naval Museum 157Clore Garden of Science

144Design Museum Holon

126

Eretz Israel Museum 120First Aliya Museum 169Galil Nature Center 239Golan Archaeological

Museum 241Haganah Museum 111Haifa City Museum 155Haifa Museum of

Art 155HaMeiri Museum 223Hammam al-Pasha 176Hecht Museum 156Heichal Shlomo Museum

75Herodian Quarter

Museum 61Herzl Museum 81History Museum (Rison

LeZion) 143IDF History Museum 111Israel Children’s Museum

125Israel Museum 79-80,

17, 83Israeli Air Force Museum

307, 309Jabotinsky Institute 111Janco-Dada Museum

168Kibbutz Sdot Yam

Antiquities Museum 173

LA Mayer Museum for Islamic Art 78-9

MadaTech 155Maine Friendship House

111-14Mané-Katz Museum 153Masada Museum 296Museum of Art, Ein

Harod 200Museum of Bedouin

Culture 307Museum of Hungarian

Speaking Jewry 228Museum of Italian Jewish

Art 75National Maritime

Museum 157Nisco Museum 168Okashi Art Museum 177Old Bethlehem Museum

257Old Railway Station 115-17Open Museum of

Photography 237Palmach Museum 111Ramla Museum 146-7Ramon Visitor Centre

313Rockefeller Museum 72

434

IND

EX M-S

museums continuedTikotin Museum of

Japanese Art 153Treasures in the Wall

Museum 176Weizmann House 144Yad Layeled Children’s

Memorial Museum 181Yad Vashem 80-1Yitzhak Rabin Centre 120

music 387-8music festivals

Eilat Chamber Music Festival 325

Israel Festival 24Israeli Opera Festival 24Isrotel Classic Music

Festival 325Jacob’s Ladder 214Jerusalem International

Oud Festival 87Jerusalem Sacred Music

Festival 86Red Sea Jazz Festival

24, 325Tsfat Klezmer Festival

24, 229Muslim peoples 364-5

NNabataeans 308, 348Nabi Musa 268, 270Nablus 17, 274-7, 275,

17, 274Nahal Iyyun Nature

Reserve 238Nahariya 181Naqba, see 1948

Arab- Israeli Warnational parks 395, see

also nature reserves; parks & gardens

Akhziv National Park 182Apollonia National

Park 145Arbel National Park 208Beit She’an National

Park 198Caesarea National

Park 172En Avdat National Park

310Korazim National Park

214-15Kursi National Park 218Mamshit National Park

308

Megiddo National Park 174

Qumran National Park 292

nature reserves, see also national parks; parks & gardens

Banias Nature Reserve 246

Ein Gedi Nature Reserve 288-9

Gamla Nature Reserve 243-4

Hula Nature Reserve 236Majrase Nature Reserve

218Mt Bental 245Mt Meron Nature

Reserve 231Tel Dan Nature Reserve

238Yehudiya Nature Reserve

242Nazareth 14, 184-94,

186-7, 14Nebuchadnezzar 347Negev 16, 38, 303-29,

304, 16climate 303highlights 304planning 303travel seasons 303

Neot HaKikar 301-2Netanya 145-6Netanyahu, Binyamin 283,

344, 361, 378Neve Ativ 246-7newspapers 399nightlife 21Nimrod 247Nimrod Fortress 10,

246, 10

OOdem 245-6opening hours 407-8, see

also ShabbatOslo Accords 358-60, 379Ottolenghi, Yotam 94, 131Ottoman Empire 351-3Oz, Amos 386

PPalace of the Lady Tunshuq

63parks & gardens, see also

national parks; nature reserves

Agamon HaHula 236Avital Volcanic Park 244

Baha’i Gardens (Akko area) 180

Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 12, 150-3, 12

Botanical Garden of Eilat 321

Citadel Park 226Ein Gedi Botanical

Garden 289Gan Ha’Em 153Gan Meir Park 125Garden of Gethsemane

69Hamat Tveriya National

Park 203-4Israel Museum Art

Garden 80Neot Kedumim Park 104Park HaYarkon 121-2Timna Park 317-18

passports 410Israeli stamps 33

peace 344-5pelicans 236, 321Petra 13, 38, 330-42, 331,

334-5, 13, 340-1accommodation 330climate 330food 330highlights 331history 331itineraries 333planning 330travel seasons 330travel to/from 331-2

Petra by Night 336phonecards 409planning 18-19, see also

individual regionsborder crossings 30-3budgeting 19calendar of events 22-5children, travel with 34-5internet resources 19Israel & the Palestinian

Territories basics 18-19

itineraries 26-9regions 36-8travel seasons 18

poetry 357, 386politics 377-81

books 380Palestinian Authority 379

Pool of Al-Anazia 146Pool of Bethesda 62population 345, 362-7postal services 408‘price tag’ attacks 345protests 400

QQalandia 261Qalqilya Park 278Qumran National Park 292Quneitra Viewpoint 244

Rrabies 419Rabin, Yitzhak 358-9Rachel’s Tomb 257radio 399Rafah 284rafting 239Ramadan 24, 258Ramallah 262-5, 263Ramat Dalton 233-4Ramla 146-7, 147Rav-Kav Smart Card 101Red Sea Jazz Festival 24refugee camps 259, 356,

357religion 345, 373, 374,

382-5, see also individual religions

books 384religious calendars 23religious services 84religious sites 21, 210-13,

see also individual sitesAri’s Mikveh 226Inn of the Good

Samaritan 269Mount of Temptation 267Qasr al-Yahud 268Rachel’s Tomb 257Yardenit 217

Rishon LeZion 143Rivlin, Reuven 378rockets 237, 360, 399Roman Empire 348-50Rosh HaNikra Grottoes 182Rosh Pina 234-5rowing 204ruins 15, 15, see also

archaeological sites; fortresses & palaces

Al-Beidha 342Hisham’s Palace 268Little Petra Siq 342Tel al-Sultan (Ancient

Jericho) 267

SSabbath, see ShabbatSadat, Anwar 356safe travel 247, 290,

398-400, 404Eilat 328hiking 247, 290, 328


435IN

DEX S

-Thitching 416rockets 237, 360, 399minefields 241, 400sinkholes 290West Bank 251

Safed, see TsfatSaladin 351Samaritan people 366Sarona 120Schindler, Oskar 65-6sculpture 389Sde Boker 309-12Sea of Galilee 15, 37, 183,

206, 208-19, 184, 15, 193

beaches 215cycling 204highlights 184, 184Kinneret trail 216water level 206

Second Intifada 359security 398-9separation wall 267, 271Sephardim 349, 362Shabbat 382, 407

driving 414foods 369-70Haifa 159Jerusalem 91Tel Aviv 124, 128

shakshuka 136shared taxis 416Shepherds’ Field 260sheruts 416Shivta (Subeita) 308shopping

language 422, 424malls 140, 300, 327-8

Shouting Hill 247Shrine of Baha’ullah 180sinkholes 290Siq 332Siq al-Barid (Little Petra)

342Six Day War 356skiing 248snake bites 420snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsoap factories 274-5soccer 139socialism 373Sodom 300-1Solomon, King 346-7Solomon’s Pools 262Soreq Cave 103souqs, see marketsspas 177, 204, 219, 291,

299

sporting eventsCycling Tel Aviv 124Ein Gedi International

Semi-Marathon 302Mt Sodom International

Bike Race 302Tel Aviv Marathon 123-4

springsBanias Nature Reserve

246Hamat Gader 219Mary’s Well 188Tel Dan Nature Reserve

238Tsfat 226

St Stephen’s Gate (Lions Gate) 53, 62

storks 236street art 256, 271Süleyman the Magnificent

351swimming 231, 9, 294-5

see also beachesDead Sea 298, 299Ein Feshka (Einot

Tsukim) 292Gordon Swimming

Pool 122Meshushim (Hexagons)

Pool 243safety 299Tiberias 204

synagogues 20Abuhav Synagogue 223Ades Synagogue 75ancient synagogue

(Jish) 232Ashkenazi Ari Synagogue

223Beit Alpha Synagogue 199Beit She’arim 165Capernaum 214Caro Synagogue 223Eliahu Hanavi Talmud

Torah Congregation 61Emtza’i (Middle)

Synagogue 61Great Synagogue

(Rishon LeZion) 143Hadassah Medical

Centre, Ein Kerem 84Har El 84Hurva Synagogue 62Istanbuli Synagogue 61Kol HaNeshama 84Moreshet Yisrael 84Qahal Qadosh Gadol 61Rabban Yokhanan Ben

Zakai Synagogues 61Sephardic Ari Synagogue

223

Shira Hadasha 84Tomb of the Patriarchs

273, 213Syrian Civil War 245

TTabgha 209, 213taxis 416Taybeh 266Tel al-Sultan (Ancient

Jericho) 267Tel Arad National Park 305Tel Aviv 15, 36, 105-44,

106, 145, 5, 10, 15, 132-3

accommodation 105, 124-8

children, travel with 125City Centre 109-10, 124,

128-9, 139climate 105courses 122drinking & nightlife 136entertainment 138-9festivals & events 123-4food 105, 128-36HaYarkon Park & Ramat

Aviv 118, 120highlights 106history 107-9internet resources 141itineraries 109Jaffa (Yafo) 118, 127-8,

135-6, 138, 140-1, 119, 133

North City Centre 116-17planning 105safe travel 141shopping 139-41sights 109-20South City Centre 110-14,

125-6, 129-34, 137, 140, 112-13

Tel Aviv Beach & Port 115-18, 127, 134-5, 137-8

tourist information 141tours 122travel seasons 105travel to/from 141-2travel within 121, 142-4

Tel Aviv Museum of Art 110, 133

Tel Hatzor 235-6telephone services 18,

408-9Temple Mount 9, 47-52,

348, 349, 350, 50-1theatre 388-9Tiberias 201-8, 202, 193

time 409tipping 407Tomb of the Rashbi 234tombs & burial sites

Bahji House 180Ben-Gurion Graves 310Garden Tomb 72-3King David’s Tomb 65Kinneret Cemetery 217Oskar Schindler, grave

of 65Royal Tombs 332Street of Facades 332Tomb of Jehoshaphat 67Tomb of Rabbi Akiva 203Tomb of Rabbi Meir Ba’al

HaNess 203Tomb of Rabbi Yohanan

ben Zakkai 203Tomb of the Lady

Tunshuq 63Tomb of the Rambam

203Tomb of the Rashbi 234Tomb of the Virgin

Mary 69Tomb of Turkan Khatun

63Tomb of Zechariah 68Tombs of Shamaiya and

Avtalion 232Tombs of the Kabbalists

226Tombs of the Prophets

68-9Yasser Arafat, grave

of 264tourist information 409tours 416-17Tower of David (Citadel)

52-3, 82train travel 417

Jezreel Valley Railway 218

transportlanguage 423, 424

travel advisories 398travellers cheques 407travel to/from Israel & the

Palestinian Territories 412-13

travel within Israel & the Palestinian Territories 413-17

Treasury (Al-Khazneh) 13, 332, 13

Tree of Zacchaeus 267Tsfat (Safed) 13, 221-31, 13

accommodation 229courses 228entertainment 230

436

IND

EX T-Z

Tsfat continuedfestivals 229food 229-30history 221sights 221-8tours 228-9travel to/from 231

Tsfat Klezmer Festival 24Tunick, Spencer 293tunnels 375tzimmerim 401Tzipori 195

UUnesco World Heritage

sites, see World Heritage sites

Upper Galilee, see Galilee, Upper

Vvegetarian food 369Via Dolorosa 56-7, 57viewpoints, see lookoutsvisas 18

Israel 409-10Jordan 410

visual arts 389-90volunteering 410-11vultures 244

WWadi Arugot 290Wadi Daraja 293Wadi David 289Wadi Meshushim 242Wadi Musa 336-42, 338

Wailing Wall, see Western Wall

walking toursChurch of the Holy

Sepulchre 55Via Dolorosa 57

water 393-4, see also drinking water

water parksDolphin Reef 322Gai Beach Water Park

204Meymadion Water

Park 125water sports

Eilat 323-4Tiberias 204

waterfalls 243, 244, 246, 293

weather 18, see also indi-vidual regions

weights 411Weizmann Institute of

Science 144West Bank 37, 249-78,

250, 260accommodation 257-8climate 249, 252food 258-9highlights 250history 251-2itineraries 255planning 249safe travel 251, 399-400tours 252travel seasons 249travel to/from 252-3

Western Wall 10, 59, 11wetlands 394-5

wi-fi 406wildflowers 243, 393wildlife reserves

Bio Ramon 313Hai-Bar Yotvata Nature

Reserve 318International Birding &

Research Center Eilat Park 321

windsurfing 122, 404wine 20, 86, 371wineries 233, 310, 372

Adir Winery 233Bahat Winery 244Boker Valley Vineyards

Farm 310Carmel Winery 169Carmey Avdat Winery

310Dalton Winery 233Golan Heights Winery

241Jerusalem Hills 100Odem Mountain Winery

245Sde Boker Winery 310Tabor Winery 196Taybeh Winery 266Tishbi Winery 169-70

wire transfers 407women in Israel 374-5women in the Palestinian

Territories 376women travellers 411work 411World Heritage sites

Acre (Old City) 176Baha’i Gardens 150-1,

180-1

Caves of Maresha & Beit-Guvrin 103

Church of the Nativity 16, 255, 212

Incense Route – Desert Cities 308

Masada 12, 296-8, 348, 12

Petra 13, 42, 330-42, 331, 334-5, 13, 340-1

Tel Aviv (White City) 15, 108, 15

Tel Be’er Sheva 309Tel Hatzor 235-6Tel Megiddo 174

YYad Vashem 80-1Yafo, see JaffaYehoshua, AB 386Yehudiya Nature Reserve

242-3Yiddish 74, 123, 363, 364Yiddishpiel 389Yom Kippur War 356

ZZiad, Tawfiq 386Zichron Ya’acov 169-70Zion Gate 53Zionism 123, 352, 353, 354zoos 278

Gangaroo Animal Park 200

Haifa Educational Zoo 154

Hamat Gader 219


437N

OTES

438

NO

TES

439

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book


Map Legend


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