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560560

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Abby Furnish, Adriana Kaufmann, Ailniery Wu, Alberto Garro, Aleix Megias, Aleksei Trofimov, Alfonso Mendocilla, Amy Wattridge, Andrea Meichtry, Andrea Polvicino, Andreas Dehlholm-Lambertsen, Andreas Pecnik, Andrew Agnew, Andy Aegerter, Anne de la Vega, Ansie Serbon, Badong Abesamis, Benjamin Kutz, Bertolt Eicke, Blanquart Noemie, Brooke Aldrich, Candida Silva, Carlos Manay, Carol Janney, Celine Heinbecker, Charles Motley, Christa Jenni, Christian Jay, Christoph Frigge, Danielle Breitenbuecher, Dave Dalpiaz, David Johnson, Davide Camisa, Deborah Galef, Desiree Weins, Diego Corimanya, Edwin Junco, Elizabeth MacLean, Erica Lazarow, Francesco Davi, Guy Duke, Hanna Hommes, Havala Hanson, Helen O’Leary, Jackie Chase, Jandra Fischer, Jean-Philippe Hardy, Jenna Lindsay, Jenny Blaker, Jesus Villacorta, Jim Doherty, JoAnn Spangler, Johan Desser, Johan Reinhard, Jorge Riveros-Cayo, Kate Convissor, Kathy Kieffer, Kelsi Luhnow, Kiara Gallop, Kristina Solheim, Laura King, Laura Sanfilippo, Laurent Tschumi, Lisa Bucolo, Lynn Haanen, Marco Rodriguez, Marie Rognes, Mary de Sousa, Massimiliano Malloni, Michele Oechsle, Mitch Gruber, Nicole McGrath, Patricia Kohlmann, Paul Dumont, Pedro Obando, Philip Jensen, Rick Vecchio, Roberto Filho, Rudy Bovee, Ryan Bates, Sabine Gerull, Sandeep Gaonkar, Sandy Lee, Sebastian Engel, Sheena Gilby, Sonia Matlochova, Sophie Young,

Stefan Hey, Stefan Pielmeier, Stefanie Hess, Susan Waldock, Sveta Karelsky, Tawny Welch, Tessa Her-manussen, Tiffany Doan, Veronika Arnyas-Turcsanyi, Vetillart Tania, Walter Soplin, Wendelin Zahoransky, Wendy Grayburn, Wesley Reisser, Willeke Norder and Yvonne Streit.

AUTHOR THANKSCarolyn McCarthyMany thanks go out to the Peruvian chefs and street vendors who played a key role in my contentment. I am also grateful for the friendship, advice and assistance of Jorge Riveros Cayo, Arturo Rojas, Mandy Kalitsis, Louise Norton, Elizabeth Shumaker, John Leivers, Paolo Greer and Illa Liendo. To my hard working co-authors, a chilled pisco sour and cheers.

Greg BenchwickMuchísimas gracias to my coordinating author Carolyn McCarthy and the trailblazers who worked on previous editions. These books are a team effort and my dynamic destination editor MaSovaida Morgan and the rest of the LP Crew are amazing! While I came close to throwing him from the car, my co-pilot for adventures in the north, Santiago, did reveal many unique insights into the Peruvian (and human) condition. Thanks for going the extra mile to Maria Isabel at Sipán Tours, Peter at Aproturpisco, and beautiful Sandra at Desert Travel in Ica. Last, but never least, this book is for Violeta.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

561BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Alex EgertonThanks to all those who helped out on the road in Peru – too many to mention – but big shouts to Adriana Von Hagen, Rob and Jose in Chachas, Susan in Celendin, and Lluis and the drunk Chileno guinea pigs in Amazonas. In Huaraz and surrounds, special thanks to Juan, Pablo, Marie and David, Alberto, Rex, Julio, Chris, and the Respons team. At LP, thanks to Carolyn for being supportive as usual and MaSovaida for bringing it all together.

Phillip TangIn Arequipa, thanks to Paul and José-Luis for hos-pitality. Thanks Luis for the night walk and mirador. To Ingrid for condor adventures; LA Raúl and Nuvia for laughs. Justo Béjar and José Lopera in Lima; and Gabriel, Yoko and Kristian in La Paz. Mostly, thanks to the Aussies and Mexicans who made re-turning a joy: Lisa N’paisan, Shane, Lee, Vek Lewis, Wendy Risteska, Ben and Waimei Garcia-Lee, Craig Burgess, Jocsan L Alfaro, Manuel Aveleyra García, Alberto R Romero and Ernesto A Alanis Cataño.

Luke WatersonWow – another list here as long as an epic Andean bus journey! Firstly, Marcel: thank you for an unforgettable trans-Andean jeep ride. Lucho (in Huancayo), Pauline (in Ayacucho), Gerson and Donald (in Puerto Maldonado), Ryse and Katie (in Cuzco), James (in Yurimaguas) and Bill and Analia (in Iquitos) also deserve a special mention, as do the myriad taxi, bus, boat and plane drivers/pilots who DIDN’T crash and wove together the fabric of yet another unforgettable trip to this unforgettable land.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover image: Young girl in traditional dress, Michael Melford/Alamy

THIS BOOKThis 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Peru guidebook was researched and written by Carolyn McCarthy, Greg Benchwick, Alex Egerton, Phillip Tang and Luke Waterson. The previous edition was also written by Carolyn, with Carolina A Miranda, Kevin Raub, Brendan Sainsbury and Luke Waterson. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor MaSovaida MorganProduct Editors Catherine Naghten, Martine PowerSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Virginia MorenoAssisting Editors Susie Ashworth, Judith Bamber, Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin, Gabrielle Stefanos

Assisting Cartographer David KempCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Bruce Evans, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Andi Jones, Kate Mathews, Wayne Murphy, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Julie Sheridan, Ellie Simpson, Ross Taylor, Angela Tinson, Tracy Whitmey

562 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbancay 270Abra de Ccorao 213Abra la Raya 175abseiling 110accommodations 532-3, see

also individual locationslanguage 553-4

Acobamba 284-5activities 35-40, see

also individual activitiesevents 25, 26, 28

Acurio, Gastón 490, 512addresses 535Aguaruna people 521Aguas Calientes 249-53, 250air travel 543-5, 547, 544Alarcón, Daniel 523Alca 169Alpamayo 384altiplano 275, 278altitude sickness 175, 199aluviones 370Amaru 238Amaru, Túpac 496Amazon Basin 52,

438-88, 439accommodations 438climate 438food 438highlights 439jungle lodges 443planning 457tourist information 456travel seasons 438

Amazon River 164American Popular

Revolutionary Alliance 502

Ampay 270amusement parks 134Andagua 169Andahuaylas 307-8

Andahuaylillas 262-3Andean condor 525Andes, the 524

food 225languages 556

animals 524-7, see also individual species

aqueducts 129archaeological sites &

ruins 23Antaymarca 169Batán Grande 344Cahuachi 129Cajamarquilla 105Candelabra Geoglyph 116Cantallo Aqueducts 129Caral 311, 514Cerro Baúl 135Chan Chan 18, 325, 5, 18Chauchilla Cemetery 128Chavín de Huántar 15,

397-8, 514-15, 15Complejo Arqueológico la

Huaca del Brujo 328-9Cueva de los Toros 173El Castillo de

Huarmey 516El Cuarto del Rescate 408Fortaleza de Chimpa 166Gran Vilaya 422Huaca Arco Iris 328Huaca Cao Viejo 329Huaca de la Luna 328Huaca del Sol 328Huaca Esmeralda 327-8Huaca Huallamarca 68-9Huaca Prieta 329Huaca Pucllana 73Huamachuco 415Huanca ruins 285Huellas de los

Dinosaurios 400Kalasaya 175Karajía 422Kuélap 16, 424-6, 16Kuntur Wasi 415-16La Centinela 111

La Congona 426Laguna de los

Cóndores 426Marcahuamachuco 415Monumento Nacional

Wilkahuaín 367Nazca Lines 15, 126-7, 130,

515, 15Ollape 423Oyu Oyu 166Pacatnamú 333Palpa Lines 126Paracas Necropolis 117, 515Paramonga 311Pinkulluna ruins 245Piquillacta 262Piruro 279Pueblo Perdido

Matata 166Pumamarka 245Puruchuco 105Q’enqo 236Quillaromi 277Runkurakay 259Santuario Histórico

Bosque de Pomac 344Sechín 312Sillustani 183Sipán 341Sondor 308Susupillo 279Tambo de Mora 111Tarmatambo 282Temple of Kotosh 277Toro Muerto

Petroglyphs 168Túcume 343Ventanillas de Combayo

414-15Ventanillas de Otuzco 414Wari Ruins 307Wilkahuaín Pequeno 367Wiracochapampa 415Yalape 424Yurac Rumi 267

area codes 21, 540Arequipa 12, 51, 141, 142-60,

142, 144

accommodations 141, 151-4activities 148-50climate 141courses 150drinking & nightlife 156-7emergencies 158entertainment 157festivals & events 151food 141highlights 142internet access 158medical services 158shopping 157-60sights 143-8tourist information 158-9tours 150-1travel seasons 141transportation 159-60

art galleries, see museums & galleries

artesanía, see handicraftsArtesonraju 378 arts 522-3Asháninka people 521Asia 108astronomical observatories

& planetariumsCañón del Colca 163Cuzco 204Nazca 127Tarma 282

astronomy 204Atahualpa 496-506Atalaya 459ATMs 536Ausangate 268-9Ayacucho 299-307, 300

accommodations 303-4churches 299courses 302drinking & nightlife 305-6entertainment 306festivals & events 16,

302-3, 16food 304-5history 299shopping 306

Index

563IN

DEX A

-Csights 301-2tourist information 306tours 302transportation 298, 306-7

ayahuasca 207, 350-1, 444Ayapua 475Aymara people 520-1

language 556

BBalsas 421Baltimore 447Barranca 311-12Batán Grande 344bathrooms 540beaches

Asia 108Cerro Azul 108Chiclayo 335Colán 345La Mina 118Lagunillas 118Las Ninfas 108Pimentel 335Pucusana 108Puerto Etén 335Punta Hermosa 105Punta Rocas 105Punta Sal 357San Bartolo 104-5Santa Clara 483Santa Rosa 335Yumaque 118

beer 22, 512-13Belén 476bicycle travel, see cycling,

mountain bikingbiosphere reserves,

see national parks & reserves

birds 525-6bird-watching 443

Amazon 452Cuzco 214Manu area 459Northern Highlands

429, 430boat tours

Amazon River 476-7Yarinacocha 470

boat travel 547-8 boating 125, 430Boca Manu 459boleto religioso 205boleto turístico

Cañón del Colca 163Cuzco 205

Bolívar, Simón 499

Bolivia 191-5Bolivian border 192-3, 451books 490, 522, 523

archaeology 517art 514birds 525cooking 509, 513culture 521history 492, 493, 495,

496, 505, 506, 515Inca Trail 257poetry 523textiles 516wildlife 524, 526, 529

border crossings 545Bolivia 192-3, 451Brazil 446, 484Chile 140Colombia 484Ecuador 348, 360, 423

Brazilian border 446, 484brujos 350budgeting 21bus travel 548, 549

Chachapoyas 421business hours 21, 537butterfly farms 440, 483-4

Ccaballitos de totora 329Cabanaconde 167-70Cabo Blanco 351-2, 353Cachora 269Cajabamba 416Cajamarca 405-14, 406

accommodations 410-11drinking & nightlife 412emergencies 412festivals & events 410food 411-12history 405-7shopping 412sights 408-9tourist information

412-13tours 409transportation 413-14

Cajamarquilla 105Callejón de Conchucos

383-4, 396-403Camaná 133-4Campo Santo 390Cañete 108-9Cañón del Colca 18,

162-8, 18Cañón del Cotahuasi 169-70Cañón del Pato 392Canta 274

Canyon Country 51, 141, 160-70, 142

accommodations 141climate 141food 141highlights 142travel seasons 141

Cápac, Huayna 496Cápac, Manco 496Capachica Peninsula 187-9car travel 548-9

Chachapoyas 421driver’s licenses 548hire 548road rules 549

Caral culture 514Caraz 391-5, 393Carhuaz 388-9Carnaval 25

Abancay 270Cajamarca 410Huanchaco 330Huaraz 371

Carretera Interocéanica 450

Casma 312-13Castilla, Ramón 499, 500Catac 395Catacaos 358Catapalla 109Catarata de Gocta 424cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Chancos 388Cueva de los Toros 173Gruta de Huagapo 285La Cueva de las

Lechuzas 280Quillaromi 277

Ccotos 188ceiba 528Celendín 416-17, 421cell phones 20, 540central highlands 51,

271-308, 272-3accommodations 271climate 271food 271highlights 272-3travel seasons 271

Cerro Azul 108-9Cerro de Pasco 275Cerro Machu Picchu 257ceviche 481, 14Chacas 401-2Chachani 161-2Chachapoya people 427,

516-17

Chachapoyas 417-22, 418Chala 133Chambi, Martin 502Chan Chan 18, 325-7, 5, 18Chaupo 170Chavín 397-400Chavín de Huántar 15,

397-8, 514-15, 15Chavín Horizon 493, 514-15Chavín people 326, 399Chazuta 433Chiclayo 334-41, 421,

336-7Chifrón 188Chilean border 140children, travel with

47-9, 210Chimbote 313-14Chimú people 327, 516-17Chincha 111-13Chinchero 243-4Chiquián 395-6Chivay 163-5chocolate 58, 72-3, 75,

205, 246cholera 551Choquequirau 269-70Chosica 105chota 344Chucuito 189-90chullpas, see funerary sitesChulucanas 358Chupaca 286churches & cathedrals,

see also convents & monasteries

Ayacucho 299, 301Basilica Menor

Catedral 315, 17Bolivia 191Catedral de

Cajamarca 408Catedral de Puno 175Catedral Santa

Catalina 135Cathedral (Ayacucho)

301Cathedral (Chiclayo) 334Cathedral

(Huancavelica) 296-7Cathedral (Piura) 345Cathedral (Tarma) 282Huancavelica 295-6Iglesia Colonial de

Chinchero 244Iglesia de Belén 317Iglesia de Jesús

María 203Iglesia de La

Ascensión 296

564

IND

EX C-E

churches & cathedrals continued

Iglesia de La Compañía (Arequipa) 146-7, 12

Iglesia de la Compañía (Trujillo) 318

Iglesia de La Compañía de Jesús 204

Iglesia de La Merced (Huancayo) 287

Iglesia de La Merced (Ica) 120

Iglesia de la Merced (Lima) 61-2

Iglesia de la Merced (Trujillo) 317

Iglesia de las Nazarenas 63

Iglesia de San Agustín (Lima) 62-3

Iglesia de San Agustín (Trujillo) 317

Iglesia de San Blas 207Iglesia de

San Cristóbal 296Iglesia de San Francisco

(Arequipa) 147Iglesia de San Francisco

(Cajamarca) 408Iglesia de San Francisco

(Huancavelica) 296Iglesia de San Francisco

(Ica) 121Iglesia de San Pedro

(Andahuaylillas) 262Iglesia de San Pedro

(Lima) 61Iglesia de

San Sebastián 296Iglesia de Santa Ana

(Huancavelica) 296Iglesia de Santa Ana

(Trujillo) 318Iglesia de Santa Clara 318Iglesia de Santiago

Apostol 173-4Iglesia de Santo

Domingo (Cuzco) 210Iglesia de Santo

Domingo (Huancavelica) 296

Iglesia de Santo Domingo (Trujillo) 318

Iglesia del Carmen 317Iglesia del Triunfo 203Iglesia Matriz 135Iglesia San Francisco

(Cuzco) 206

Iglesia San Francisco (Huánuco) 276

Iglesia San Juan Bautista 156

Iglesia y Monasterio de Santa Catalina 206

Jauja 285La Capilla 238La Catedral

(Arequipa) 146La Catedral (Cuzco) 203La Catedral de Lima 58-9Nuestra Señora de la

Asunción 190Otuzco 320San Juan de Letrán 190San Pedro 190Santa Cruz 190Santo Domingo 190Santuario de

El Señor de Luren 121Santuario de la Virgen

del Socorro 330Templo de Pomata

Santiago Apóstolo 190Templo y Convento

de La Merced 206cinema 478clay licks 447, 449, 13climate 20, 25-8, see

also individual regionscloud forests 459, 528coca plants 176, 206, 529Cocha Juárez 461Cocha Otorongo 461Cocha Salvador 461Cochas Chico 286Cochas Grande 286Cojup Valley 383Colán 345Colca Canyon,

see Cañón del ColcaCollpa Chuncho 449Collpa de Guacamayos 447Colombian border 484Complejo Arqueológico la

Huaca del Brujo 328-9Concepción 287Conchucos Valley,

see Callejón de Conchucos

condors 167, 525consulates 534-5convents & monasteries

Convento de los Descalzos 66

Iglesia de Santo Domingo 63

Iglesia y Monasterio de Santa Catalina 206

Monasterio de la Recoleta 147

Monasterio de San Francisco 59

Monasterio de Santa Catalina 143-6

Museo de Arte Virreinal de Santa Teresa 147

Santa Rosa de Ocopa 287Templo y Convento

de La Merced 206Copacabana (Bolivia) 191-2Corahuasi 269Cordillera Blanca 12,

378-84, 12Cordillera Huayhuash

384-7Cordillera Huayhuash

circuit 385-7, 386, 24scams 387

Cordillera Negra 387-8Cordilleras, the 52, 364,

376-87, 365accommodations 364climate 364food 364highlights 365tourist information 378tours 378travel seasons 364trekking &

mountaineering 376-8Corporaque 166Corrientillo 483Coshñirwa 167costs 20, 21, 533, 536-7Cotahuasi 169courses

cooking 155, 215, 246language 77-8, 150, 215,

418, 442, 535credit cards 537Cristo Blanco 135cruises, see boat toursCruz del Cóndor 167culture 24, 490-1, 507-8,

519-21Cumbemayo 414curanderos 350currency 20customs regulations 533Cutimbo 183-4cuy 262Cuzco 14, 51, 196-270, 197,

200-1, 208-9, 14accommodations 196,

217-24activites 210-14children, travel with 210climate 196courses 214-15drinking &

nightlife 228-9

emergencies 231entertainment 229festivals & events 216food 196, 225, 224-8highlights 197history 198-9internet resources 232itineraries 198safety 231shopping 230-1sights 199-210tickets 205tourist information 231-2tours 215-16transportation 232-5travel seasons 196walking tours 211, 211

cycling 40, 547, see also mountain biking

Cañón del Pato 22Carretera

Interoceanica 442Lima 76-7south coast 110

Ddance

Afro-Peruvian style 112marinera 319, 5

dangers, see safetyDead Nun’s Canyon 392deforestation 529-30dengue fever 551disabilities, travelers

with 540-1diving & snorkeling

Lima 77Máncora 353

dogs 527drinking 512-13, see

also individual drinkslanguage 554-6

drinking water 45driver’s licenses 548driving, see car traveldune buggies 124-5

Eearthquakes

Huaraz 370Yungay 390

economy 490-1, 507Ecuadorian border 348,

360, 423El Bendito 363El Carmen District 111El Chaco, see ParacasEl Circuito Mágico del

Agua 65-6

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

565IN

DEX E-H

El Clásico trek 167El Misti 161El Señor de Muruhuay 284El Valle de los Volcanes 169electricity 534embassies 534-5emergencies 21

Arequipa 158Cajamarca 412Chiclayo 339Cuzco 231Huaraz 375Iquitos 482language 556Lima 99Puno 181Trujillo 323Tumbes 361

environmental issues 529-30

mining 278, 409Escallani 189etiquette 490events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 21

FFerreñafe 343festivals & events 25-8

Abancay Day 270Alasitas 178Año Nuevo 290August 15 151Carnaval 25, 270, 330,

371, 410Carnaval (Abancay) 270Carnaval (Cajamarca) 410Carnaval (Huanchaco)

330Carnaval (Huaraz) 371Corpus Christi 217Crucifix Vigil 216Dance of the Blacks 277Día de los

Reyes Magos 246El Festival Internacional

de la Primavera 319El Seńor de la Soledad 371El Señor de los

Milagros 78El Señor de los

Temblores 216El Seńor de Luren 121Epiphany 178Feast of Santa Rosa

de Lima 433Feast of St James 178Feria de Santa Rosa

de Lima 78

Festival de Andinismo 371Festival del Mar 330Festival of Lima 78Fiesta de la Vendimia 121Fiesta de la Virgen

de Chapi 151Fiesta de las Cruces 297Fiesta de San Juan 178Fiesta de Yahuar 308Fiestas Patrias

(Chincha) 112Fiestas Patrias

(Huancayo) 290Great Amazon River Raft

Race 477Ica Carnaval 121Ica Week 121Inti Raymi 217, 27La Fiesta de la

Marinera 319La Virgen de la

Candelaria 177La Virgen del Carmen

(Celendín) 416La Virgen del Carmen

de Chincha 112La Virgen del Carmen

(Pisac) 238, 27 La Virgen del Rosario 416Lake Titicaca 171, 177-8Las Cruces 178Martes Guerra 371Mistura 91orchid festival 429Our Lady of Mercy 178Puno Week 178Q’oyoriti 268San Juan 477Santuranticuy Artisan

Crafts Fair 217Selvámanos 465Semana Santa

(Arequipa) 151Semana Santa

(Ayacucho) 16, 302, 16Semana Santa

(Huancayo) 290Semana Santa

(Tarma) 283Señor de Choquechilca

246Tarma Tourism Week 283Tourist Week 121Verano Negro 112

fishing 470floating islands 11, 184, 11food 509-13, see

also individual locationsAndean cuisine 225guinea pigs 262language 554-6

Peruvian cuisine 23tours 442

football 508forts 76Fujimori, Alberto 503,

504-5, 506funerary sites

Cutimbo 183Karajía 422Laguna de los

Cóndores 427-8Paracas Necropolis

117-18Revash 422-3Sillustani 183Soporo 169Ventanillas de Otuzco &

Combayo 414-15

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGarcía, Alan 503, 504,

505, 506gay travelers 535geoglyphs, see

also petroglyphsCandelabra Geoglyph 116Nazca Lines 15, 126,

130, 15Palpa Lines 126

geography 524gold mining 409golf 476Gran Vilaya 417, 422Grippa, Francisco 486guano 116guinea pigs 262Guzmán, Abimael 305,

503, 504

Hhairless dogs 527handicrafts

Arequipa 158Ayacucho 306Catacaos 358Chinchero 244Chulucanas 358Lima 97-8Lurín 104Rio Mantaro Valley 286San Pedro de

Cajas 285health 550-2

altitude sickness 175, 199children 48-9insurance 550services 551

vaccinations 550, 551websites 551

Herzog, Werner 478hiking, see trekkinghistoric buildings

Casa de Fierro 476Casa de la

Emancipación 317Casa de Mayorazgo de

Facala 317Casa de Urquiaga 315Casa Ganoza

Chopitea 318Casona Orbegoso 318El Complejo de Belén 408La Casa de Logia 342-3Palacio Iturregui 315Prefectura 301

history 492-506Atahualpa period 496-7books 492, 493, 495,

496, 505, 506, 515Chavín culture 514-15Chavín period 493colonisation 497-9guano wars 116Inca culture 496-7, 517-18independence 499-500Moche culture 515-16Nazca culture 515pre-Columbian period

492-6Spanish invasion 497Wari culture 494-5, 516

hitchhiking 549hoatzins 452holidays 537homestays 265horseback riding 40

Ayacucho region 307Chavín 398Cuzco 214Huaraz 369Obrajillo 274Urubamba 241

hot springs, see also thermal baths

Llanguat 416Los Baños del Inca 414Máncora 352Monterrey 388Moyobamba 430Santa Teresa 264Tinqui 269

Huaca Prieta people 326Huacachina 124-6Hualhuas 286Huamachuco 415Huancabamba 350Huancacalle 266-7

566

IND

EX H-L

Huancavelica 295-8, 296Huancayo 287-95, 288-9

accommodations 290-1activities 289-90drinking & nightlife 293festivals & events 290food 291-3shopping 293sights 287-9tourist information 293transportation 294

Huanchaco 329-32, 353Huánuco 275-9, 276huaqueros 342Huarán 240Huaraz 52, 364, 365-76,

365, 366-7accommodations 364,

371-3activities 367-70climate 364drinking & nightlife 374emergencies 375festivals & events 371food 364, 373-4highlights 365shopping 374-5sights 367tourist information 375tours 369-71transportation 375-6travel seasons 364trekking 367-8, 370-1

Huari 400-1Huaringas 350Huaripampa 380, 395Huayllay 274-5Humala, Ollanta 490, 506hummingbirds 526

IIca 120-4, 122ice climbing 37, 368Ice Maiden 149Ichu 189Ilave 190Ilo 136-7immigration 543Inca culture 496-7, 517-18

astronomy 204Inca Drawbridge 257Inca sites

Camino del Inca 285Choquequirau 269

Huánuco Viejo 279Incahuasi 110Intipata 261Isla del Sol 195Llactapata 259Machu Picchu 11, 253-9,

254-5, 4, 10-11, 44Ollantaytambo

Ruins 245-6Pachacamac 103-4Pardeones Ruins 128Phuyupatamarka 260Pisac Ruins 237Qorikancha 209-10Ruinas Inca 244Rumicolca 262Sacsaywamán 235-6Saihuite 269Sayaqmarka 259Tambo Colorado 118Templo de

Viracocha 263Tarawasi 269Tipón 261-2Vilcabamba 267Vilcashuamán 307Vitcos 267Wiñay Wayna 260

Inca Trail 13, 41-6, 249, 259-61, 260-1, 13

books 257regulations & fees 42tour operators 43

Inca Trail (Cordillera Blanca) 383

indigenous peoples 519-21insurance 535

health 550internet access 535Inti Raymi 26, 217, 27Intipunku 261Iquitos 473-83, 474

accommodations 477-9, 485-8

activities 476-7drinking & nightlife 481emergencies 482food 480-1history 473-5shopping 481-2sights 475-6tourist information 482tours 484-5transportation 482-3

Ishinca 384Isla Amantaní 186Isla de la Luna 195Isla del Sol 195Isla Suasi 186-7

Isla Taquile 184-5Isla Ticonata 189Islas Ballestas 17, 115-16, 17Islas Uros 184, 7, 11Itahuanía 459itineraries 29-34

Cuzco 198, 211, 211Lima 55, 67, 67

JJalca Grande 423Jauja 285-7juane 481Juli 190Juliaca 172-3jungle lodges 443Junín Grebe 275

KKarajía 422kayaking, see river runningKinski, Klaus 478kitesurfing 39

Máncora 352Paracas 118

Kuélap 16, 424-6, 16Kuntur Wasi 415-16

LLa Jalca 423La Merced 462-4La Unión 279Lago de Junín 275Lago Sandoval 454-5Lago Valencia 455Laguna 69 383Laguna Ahuac 382Laguna Azul 431Laguna Chinancocha 391Laguna Churup 383Laguna de Choclococha 295Laguna de Paca 285Laguna de Pacucha 308Laguna de Salinas 161Laguna Ñahuimpuquio 286Laguna Negra 350Laguna Orconcocha 391Laguna Parón 392Laguna Shimbe 350Laguna Wilkacocha 387Lagunas 472-3Lagunas Llanganuco 391Lagunillas 118Lake Titicaca 11, 51,

171-95, 172accommodations 171climate 171

culture 178festivals & events 171, 185food 171highlights 172islands 184-7tours 176-7, 182transportation 185travel seasons 171

Lamas 433Lambayeque 341-3Lampa 173-4landslides 370languages 20, 553-9

courses 77-8, 150, 215, 418, 442, 535

Lares Valley 213Lari 166Las Ninfas 108lead mining 278legal matters 535-6Leimebamba 426-8lesbian travelers 535Lima 50, 54-105, 56-7, 64

accommodations 54, 79-85

activities 76-7Barranco 73-5, 84-5,

92-4, 95, 74Callao 75-6central Lima 58-66,

79-80, 86-7, 94-5, 60-1climate 54courses 77-8drinking & nightlife 94-5east Lima 66-8emergencies 99entertainment 96-7festivals & events 78food 14, 54, 85-94highlights 56-7itineraries 55La Punta 76medical services 99Miraflores 69-73, 81-4,

88-92, 95, 70-1Rímac 66safety 98-9San Isidro 68-9, 80-1,

87-8, 95, 68-9shopping 97-105sights 19, 55-76tourist information 100tours 78travel seasons 54transportation 101-3walking tours 67, 67west Lima 75-6, 85

Limatambo 269Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

567IN

DEX L-M

literature 523, see also books

Llachón 187-8Llamac 396Llulluchupampa 259Loddigesia mirabilis 429lodges 22Los Baños del Inca 414Los Cedros 384Los Organos 353Lunahuaná 109-11Luquina Chico 190Lurín 104

Mmacaws 447, 449, 13Machu Picchu 11, 253-9,

254-5, 4, 10-11, 44alternative routes 41, 45-6history 253-6museum 22, 206sights & activities 256-8tickets 206, 258tourist information 258

MAC (Museo de Arte Contemporaneo) 22, 73-4

Madrigal 166magazines 538malaria 551-2Malata 167Máncora 19, 352-7Manu area 456-62Manu Wildlife Center 461-2maps 377-8, 536Maras 244-5Marcahuasi 281marinera 319, 5markets

Arequipa 158Belén 476Carhuaz 388Catacaos 358El Molino 230La Merced 463Lima 97, 98Mercado de Artesania 237Mercado de Artesanía

San Juan 482Mercado de Chinchero

244, 14Mercado Modelo 334Mercado Modelo de

Huanchac 230Mercado San Pedro 230Río Mantaro Valley 287

Martes Guerra 371measures 538medical services 551

mining 278, 295, 409Mirador de los Volcanes 161mobile phones 20, 540Moche people & culture

326, 494, 515-16Mollendo 134-5Monasterio de Santa

Catalina 143-6monasteries, see convents

& monasteriesmoney 20, 21, 533, 536-7Monterrey 388Moquegua 135-6Moray 244-5motorcycle travel 548-9mountain biking 40, 213-14,

368-9Arequipa 150Ollantaytambo 246

mountain climbing 37Arequipa 148-9Chachani 161-2El Misti 161Huaraz 367-8, 370

Moyobamba 429-31mud baths 352Museo Larco 19, 76Museo Machu Picchu

22, 206museums & galleries

Asociación Museo del Automóvil 68

Bruning Museum 342Casa Grau 345Casa Museo Basadre 137Casa-Hacienda San

José 111Centro Cultural de la

Unica 121Centro de

Interpretación 117Cerro San Cristóbal 66Chan Chan 327Choco Museo

(Barranco) 75Choco Museo

(Cuzco) 205Choco Museo

(Lima) 58Choco Museo

(Miraflores) 72-3Coca Museum 176Convento de los

Descalzos 66Fundación Museo

Amano 72Galería Lucía de la

Puente 74-5Historical Ships

Museum 475Huaca Arco Iris 328

Iglesia San Francisco museum 206

Instituto Nacional de Cultura 295

Instituto Nacional de Cultura Museo 417

Kuntur Wasi museum 415La Casa de La

Gastronomia Peruana 63

Lima 19, 58Lugar de la Memoria 72MAC (Museo de Arte

Contemporaneo) 22, 73-4

Museo Andrés Avelino Cáceres 302

Museo Andrés del Castillo 64

Museo Arqueológico de la Universidad Católica de Santa María 147

Museo Arqueológico Hipólito Unanue 302

Museo Banco Central de Reserva del Perú 61

Museo Carlos Dreyer 175Museo Cassinelli 319, 326Museo Contisuyo 135Museo de

Arqueología 317Museo de Arqueológico

& Etnografía 408Museo de Arte

Contemporaneo (MAC) 22, 73-4

Museo de Arte de Lima 65

Museo de Arte Popular (Ayacucho) 302

Museo de Arte Popular (Cuzco) 207-8

Museo de Arte Precolombino 205

Museo de Arte Religioso (Cajamarca) 408

Museo de Arte Religioso (Cuzco) 207

Museo de Arte Virreinal de Santa Teresa 147

Museo de Cabeza de Baca 359

Museo de Historia Natural (Cuzco) 205-6

Museo de Historia Natural (Lima) 66

Museo de la Coca 206Museo de la Cultura

Peruana 65Museo de la

Inquisición 59-61Museo de la

Memoria 301-2

Museo de la Nación 66Museo de la Universidad

Nacional de San Agustín 148

Museo de Oro del Perú 66-8

Museo de Sitio Chan Chan 325

Museo de Sitio Manuel Chávez Ballón 249

Museo de Sitio Sipán 341Museo de Zela 137Museo de Zoología 319Museo del Sitio 244Museo del Sitio de

Qorikancha 210Museo Didáctico

Antonini 127Museo Ferroviario 137Museo Histórico

Municipal 147-8Museo Histórico

Regional (Cuzco) 206Museo Histórico

Regional (Tacna) 137Museo Huacas de

Moche 328Museo Inka 205Museo Kampac 174Museo Larco 19, 76Museo Leimebamba 426Museo Lítico Pucará 174Museo Machu Picchu

22, 206Museo Maria Reiche 127Museo Mario Testino 75Museo Municipal de

Arte Contemporáneo 206

Museo Municipal de Sitio 136

Museo Municipal Vicus 345

Museo Municipal Wamachuko 415

Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historía del Perú 76

Museo Nacional de Chavín 398

Museo Nacional Sicán 343

Museo Pedro de Osma 75Museo Quijote 210Museo Regional de

Ancash 367Museo Regional de

Ica 120Museo Ritos

Andinos 263 Museo Salesiano 287

568

IND

EX M-P

museums & galleries continued

Museo Santuarios Andinos 146

Museo Taurino 66Museo Tumbas

Reales de Sipán 342Museo Yanque 165Museum of Indigenous

Amazon Cultures 476Paracas History

Museum 115Quinua 307Tarapoto 431Túcume 343

music 490, 522Afro-Peruvian style 112festivals 28

Nnarcotics 264national parks & reserves

528-9, see also wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Abra Patricia-Alto Nieva Private Conservation Area 430

Alto Shilcayo 432Parque Nacional

Bahuaja- Sonene 455Parque Nacional Cerros

de Amotape 362-3Parque Nacional

Huascarán 379Parque Nacional Manu

12, 460-1, 4, 13Parque Nacional Tingo

María 280Parque Nacional

Yanachaga- Chemillén 465

Punta Winchus 392Reserva de Biosfera del

Noroeste 362Reserva Nacional de

Paracas 116-18Reserva Nacional

Pacaya-Samiria 19, 473, 19

Reserva Nacional Salinas y Aguada Blanca 160-2

Reserva Nacional Tambopata 447

Reserva Nor Yauyos- Cochas 286

Reserva Tingana 22, 429-30

Santuario Nacional Ampay 270

Santuario Nacional Lagunas de Mejía 134

Santuario Nacional los Manglares de Tumbes 363

Nauta 22Nazca 126-33, 128-9Nazca Lines 15, 126-7, 130,

515, 15damage 127

Nazca people & culture 494, 515

Nevado Verónica 259newspapers 538north coast 52, 309-63,

310accommodations 309climate 309food 309highlights 310travel seasons 309

northern highlands 52, 404-37, 405

accommodations 404climate 404food 404highlights 405travel seasons 404

notable buildings, see historic buildings

novoandina 512

OObrajillo 274Ocongate 268oilbirds 280Ollantay 521Ollantaytambo 245-9, 246Olleros 395opening hours 21, 537Otuzco 320outdoor activities 35-40,

see also individual activities

Oxapampa 465-6

PPacasmayo 333-4Pachacamac 103-4paddleboarding 39Palacio de Gobierno 58Palacio Torre Tagle 61Palpa 126Pampamarca 170Paq’amayo 259Paracas 115-20, 117Paracas culture 515paragliding & parasailing

40, 77, 369

parks & gardens, see also national parks & reserves

Bosque El Olivar 69Jardín Botanico 238Parque de la Cultura 65Parque de la Identidad

Huanca 289Parque de la Muralla 59Paseo de las Musas 334Waqanki Orchid Center

430Parque Nacional Cerros de

Amotape 362-3Parque Nacional

Huascarán 379Parque Nacional Manu 12,

460-1, 4, 13parrilladas de la selva 481passports 543Patabamba 240Patahuasi 160Paucartambo 267, 459Pedro Ruíz 428-9peñas 96petroglyphs,

see also geoglyphsCumbemayo 414Toro Muerto Petroglyphs

168Pevas 486phonecards 540Pilcopata 459pilgrimages 320Pimentel 335Pinchollo 166-7Piquillacta 262Pisac 236-40, 238Pisco 113-15, 114pisco (drink) 23-4, 511Pitec 383Piura 344-9, 346Pizarro, Francisco 497-8planetariums, see astro-

nomical observatories & planetariums

planning, see also individual regions

budgeting 20-1calendar of events 25children, travel with

47-9, 210 internet resources 20-1itineraries 29jungle visits 457outdoor activities 35-40Peru basics 20-1Peru’s regions 50-2repeat visitors 22travel seasons 20-1, 25-8

plants 527-8, see also individual species

Playa Lobitos 349-50, 353plazas

Centro Turístico Cultural San Cristóbal 302

Machu Picchu 256, 257Plaza de Armas

(Arequipa) 146Plaza de Armas

(Ayacucho) 301Plaza de Armas

(Chiclayo) 334Plaza de Armas

(Cuzco) 199Plaza de Armas (Lima)

58Plaza de Armas

(Moquegua) 135Plaza de Armas

(Pisco) 113Plaza de Armas

(Tacna) 137Plaza de Armas

(Trujillo) 315Plaza Moré 302Plaza San Blas 211Plaza San Francisco 211Plaza San Martín 64

politics 490-1Pomabamba 402-3Pomata 190-1Ponte 416population 491, 507porters 43postal services 537Pozuzo 465pre-Columbian cultures

326-7public holidays 537Pucallpa 466-70, 468Pucará 174Pucusana 108Puente Guillermo

Billinghurst 441Puerto Bermúdez 467Puerto Callao 470Puerto Chicama 332-3, 353Puerto Etén 335Puerto Malabrigo,

see Puerto ChicamaPuerto Maldonado 440-7,

441, 448accommodations 443-4drinking & nightlife 445shopping 445sights & activities 440-2tourist information 445transportation 445-7

Puerto Pizarro 362Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

569IN

DEX P

-TPukapukara 236Puno 175-83, 176

accommodations 178-80activities 175-6drinking & nightlife 181emergencies 181festivals & events 177-8food 180-1shopping 181sights 175-6tourist information 181-2transportation 182-3

Punta Sal 357Puruchuco 105Puya raimondii 307, 528

QQ’enqo 236Qhapaq Ñan 22Qorikancha 209-10Q’oyoriti 26, 216, 268Quebrada Akillpo 384Quechua people 520

language 556Quengococha 416Quilcayhuanca Valley 383Quillabamba 265-6Quince Mil 268Quinua 307

Rrafting, see river runningrainforest 528Raqchi 263Recuay 395reed boats 329, 2refuges 389religion 491, 508Reserva de Biosfera del

Noroeste 362Reserva Ecológica Chaparrí

Wildlife 343-4Reserva Nacional de

Paracas 116-18Reserva Nacional Pacaya-

Samiria 19, 473, 19Reserva Nacional Salinas y

Aguada Blanca 160-2Reserva Nacional

Tambopata 447Reserva Tingana 22, 429-30retablos 306Revash 422-3Rica Playa 363rifugi 389Río Alto Madre de Dios 460Río Apurímac 213, 214Río Heath 455Río Madre de Dios 453-4

Río Mantaro Valley 285-95Río Santa Teresa 212Río Tambopata 213, 214Río Urubamba 212river running 37-9

Arequipa 149-50Cuzco 212-13, Huaraz 369Lunahuaná 110Tarapoto 433

road rules 549rock climbing 37

Caraz 392Huaraz 368, 370

ruins, see archaeological sites & ruins

Rumicolca 262

SSacred Valley 14, 51,

196-270, 197, 237accommodations 196climate 196food 196highlights 197itineraries 198tours 241travel seasons 196

Sacsaywamán 235-6safety 538-40

altitude sickness 175, 199Iquitos 482jungle 264Lima 98-9Machu Picchu 258-9Nazca Lines 132Puerto Bermúdez 467Trujillo 322women travelers 541-2

saints 498Salkantay trail 45, 44Salvación 459San Agustín de Cajas 286San Francisco 470San Jerónimo de Tunán 286San Juan de Chuccho 167San Pedro cactus 207, 350San Pedro de Cajas 285San Pedro de Casta 281San Ramón 462-4San Vicente de Cañete,

see Cañetesandboarding 39, 124, 38

Huacachina 124Sangalle 167Santa Clara 470, 483Santa Cruz trek 379-82,

380-1

Santa María 264Santa Rosa 335Santa Teresa 264-5Santo Tomás 483Santuario Nacional

Lagunas de Mejía 134Santuario Nacional

los Manglares de Tumbes 363

sapo 228Satipo 465scams 360, 387scuba diving 40Semana Santa 16, 26, 16

Arequipa 151Ayacucho 302Huancayo 290Tarma 283

Sendero Luminoso 264, 305, 503

shamans 350Shining Path 264, 305, 503Shintuya 459shopping, see

also individual locationslanguage 556-7

Sibayo 162-3Sicán people 327Sicuani 263Sillustani 183Sipán 341Siulá Grande 395skiing 369snorkeling 352Soporo 169soroche 175, 199South American Explorers

Club 100, 232south coast 50, 106-40, 107

accommodations 106climate 106food 106highlights 107travel seasons 106

Spanish language 553-9spas 214, see also hot

springs, thermal bathsspatuletails 429sports 97, 157squares, see plazassurfing 39

Lima 77Máncora 19, 352north coast 19, 352, 353Punta Hermosa 105Punta Rocas 105south coast 109

sustainable tourism 36, 43, 188, 369

swimming 40, 125Lima 77Los Baños del Inca 414Pisac 238Quillabamba 266

TTacna 137-40, 138-9Tambomachay 236Tantamayo 279Tarapoto 431-7, 432Tarma 281-4, 282taxis 549

tours 215telephone services 20-1,

540Tello, Julio C 517temples 189textiles 230theater 97thermal baths,

see also hot springsAbra La Raya 263Aguas Calientes 249Cañón del Colca 163Cañón del Cotahuasi 169Cconoc 269Chancos 388Chavín 398Yanque 166

time 20, 540Tingo María 279-81Tinqui 268-9Tipón 261-2tipping 537toad game 228toilets 540Toledo, Alejandro 505tomb raiders 342Tomepampa 169Toro Muerto Petroglyphs

168-9Torre Torre 189tourist ticket 163, 205tours 545-6, see also boat

tours, taxi tours, walking tours & individual locations

Arequipa 150-1Ayacucho 302Cabanaconde 168Cajamarca 409Chiclayo 334Cordilleras, the 378Cuzco 215-16food tours 442Huaraz 369-71Ica 121Iquitos 484-5

570

IND

EX T-Z

tours continuedKuélap 425Lagunas 472Lake Titicaca 176-7, 192Leimebamba 427Lima 78Máncora 353Manu area 456-8Nazca 129-30Paracas 118-19Puerto Maldonado 442-3Quillabamba 266Tarapoto 433Trujillo 319Tumbes 359Yarinacocha 470

train travel 549Transoceanic Hwy 450transportation

language 557-8travel to/from Peru

543-6travel within Peru 546-9

trekking 23, 35-6, 210-12Arequipa 148-9Chachani 161-2Chavín 398Chivay 163-4Cordillera Blanca 382-4Cordillera Huayhuash

circuit 385-7Cordilleras, the 376-8El Clásico 167El Misti 161Gran Vilaya trek 417Huaraz 367-8, 370-1Inca Trail 13, 41-6, 249,

259-61, 260-1, 13Máncora 353Salkantay trail 45, 44Santa Cruz trek 379-82,

380-1Torre Torre 289Wayllabamba 244

Tres Cruces 267Tres Piedras 259

Trujillo 17, 314-24, 316-17, 325, 17

accommodations 319-21drinking & nightlife 322emergencies 323entertainment 322festivals & events 319food 321-2history 315sights 315-19tourist information 322-3tours 319transportation 323-4

Truth & Reconciliation Commission 504

Túcume 343Tumbes 358-62Tuti 163TV 538typhoid 552

UUros islands 184, 7, 11Urubamba 240-3

Vvacations 537vaccinations 551Valle de Belén 417, 422Vallejo, César 523Vargas Llosa,

Mario 501, 523vegetarian travelers 513Velasco Alvarado,

Juan 502-3Velinga 170Ventanillas de

Combayo 414-15Ventanillas de Otuzco 414-15Verano Negro 25viewpoints

Cerro San Cristóbal 66La Merced 463Lunahuaná 109Mirador de Carmen

Alto 302

Mirador de Largarta 162Mirador Huancas 417Mirador Luya Urco 417Mirador Natural de

Asiru Patjata 191Mirador San Juan 430Mirador Tahuishco 430Nazca Lines 126-7Paso de Patopampa 161

Vilcabamba 267visas 20, 541Vischongo 307volcanoes 161volunteering 369, 416,

541

Wwalking tours

Cuzco 211, 211Lima 67, 67

Wari people & culture 494-5, 516

Warmiwañusca 259water 45waterfalls

Cascada Cochecorral 416

Catarata Bayoz 463Catarata El Tirol 463Catarata Velo de la

Novia 463Cataratas de

Ahuashiyacu 433Cataratas de

Huacamaillo 433Izanquillay 169Quillabamba 266Sipia waterfall 170Uscune falls 170

Wayllabamba 244, 259Wayna Picchu 258weather 20, 25-8, see

also individual regionsweights 538white-water rafting,

see river runningwildlife 23, 524-7

wildlife reserves & sanctuaries, see also butterfly farms

Manu Wildlife Center 461-2

Pampa de Toccra 160Reserva Ecológica

Chaparrí Wildlife 343Reserva Nacional

Pampas Galeras 129Santuario Nacional

Lagunas de Mejía 134wildlife-watching 35, 461,

461-2, 473, 525Wilkahuaín 382wine 512-13wineries

Bodega Santa Maria 109Ica 121La Plazuela 111

women in Peru 508women travelers 541-2women’s health 552work 542

YYalape 424Yanama 402Yanque 165-6Yarinacocha 470Yavari 174yellow fever 552Yerupajá 395Yucay 240Yuncaypata 213Yungay 390-1Yurimaguas 471-2

Zzinc mining 278ziplining 110, 164, 353zoos

Parque de Las Leyendas 76

Parque Natural 466Zorritos 357-8

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

571N

OTES

572

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Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to social@lonelyplanet.com We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

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574

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway/Subte stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdPhillip TangArequipa & Canyon Country, Lake Titicaca A degree in Latin America studies brought Phillip Tang to these shores, and over a decade later he still finds himself feeling breathless (only slightly literally) pondering a canyon in Colca or the ocean in Miraflores. He writes about travel on his two loves, Asia and Latin America, and has contributed to Lonely Planet’s guides to China, Japan and Mexico, and has written about Peru for other publishers. Find his Peru Insta-photos from this visit

through philliptang.co.uk.

Luke WatersonCentral Highlands, Amazon Basin Back for his 3rd edition of Lonely Planet’s Peru, Luke has a love for getting off the beaten track, which is evident in him writing the Central Highlands and Amazon Basin chapters of this guide. He specialises in writing about Andean and Amazonian South America as a travel writer and as a novelist: his debut novel, Roebuck: Adventures of an Admirable Adventurer is set in the 16th-century South American jungle. He writes on Latin America for

the Independent, the Telegraph and the BBC, and runs a travel-and-culture blog about his current home, Slovakia: Englishmaninslovakia.com. Luke also wrote the ‘Peru’s Cuisine’ chapter.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – April 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 557 9© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSCarolyn McCarthyCoordinating Author, Lima, Cuzco & the Sacred Valley Author Carolyn McCarthy first discovered cumbia camping on the Inca Trail many years ago. On this trip she embarked on a quest for the perfect ceviche (with success). She has contributed to more than 30 titles for Lonely Planet, including Panama, Trek-king in the Patagonian Andes, Argentina, Chile, Colorado, The Southwest and national parks guides. She has also written for Outside, BBC Magazine, National

Geographic and other publications. For more information, see www.carolynmccarthy.pressfolios.com or follow her on Instagram @masmerquen and Twitter @RoamingMcC.

Greg BenchwickNorth Coast, South Coast Greg Benchwick has been trucking around South America for the past 15 years. For this trip, the Lonely Planet veteran covered over 5000km of coastline, going that extra mile to explore offbeat surf destinations along the way. Greg has written speeches for the United Nations, interviewed Grammy-award winners and created dozens of videos and web features for LonelyPlanet.com, National Geographic Traveler and other

international publications. He is an expert on sustainable travel, international development, food, wine and having a good time.

Alex EgertonHuaraz & the Cordilleras, Northern Highlands A journalist by trade, Alex writes about travel and culture in destinations all over Latin America but has a particular passion for the Andes and the seldom visited jungle-covered parts of the map. Based in southern Colombia, he makes regular trips down to Peru in search of the best spicy eats and most spectacular/sketchy mountain bus rides. When not on the road for work, you’ll find him hiking in the mountain plains or

watching way too much football.

Read more about Greg at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/gregbenchwick

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’