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959959

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Anna Meisser, Anne Fortin B Billy Allen, Bonnie Cheung, Brittney Laver C Carla Giustozzi, Christopher Sadler, Colin Pischke D Daniel Cox E Eduard Ringe, Erica Wijarnako F Florian Reichert G George Bloomfield H Heather Adams, Hendriekje Decorte J Johann Schelesnak, Johannes Wölfel, John Roberts K Katarzyna Jaklewicz, Katie Ingham L Lauren Marinigh, Laurie Collard, Leorah McGinnis, Lucie Samohylova M Manon van der Steen, Matias Rivera, Michelle Biggs, Miriam Ganem-Rosen, Moritz Laux N Nadia Muttalib, Nadine Timm O Ola Wawrzon, Oliver Heard, Omar Risk P Pam Gould R Rick Beunk, Romuald Chasseur, Ruth Obando S Sam Hoagland, Sander Jansen, Sandro Ferrari, Sarah Anthony T Thomas Wiser V Viktoria Jokisch

AUTHOR THANKSNick RayAs always a huge and heartfelt thanks to the peo-ple of Southeast Asia, whose warmth and humour, stoicism and spirit make it a happy yet humbling place to be. Biggest thanks are reserved for my lovely wife, Kulikar Sotho, as without her support and encouragement the adventures would not be possible. And to our young children, Julian and Belle, for enlivening our lives immeasurably. Many thanks to

my mum and dad for giving me the freedom to travel and their many visits to this part of the world. Thanks to fellow travellers and residents, friends and contacts in Southeast Asia who have helped to shape my knowledge and experience in this region. Thanks also to my co-authors for going the extra mile to ensure this is a worthy new edition. Finally, thanks to the Lonely Planet team who have worked on this title. The authors may be the public face, but a huge amount of work goes into making this a better book behind the scenes and I thank you all for your hard work.

Isabel AlbistonThanks to everyone who helped out along the way, especially Mrs Lee, Stephen Baya and Tine Hjetting, Mado in Pa Lungan, Dina Bailey, Chongteah Lim, Leslie Chiang, Anthony Chieng, Polycarp Teo Sebum and Louise, Jacqueline Fong and Jo-Lynn Liao. Cheers also to Stefan Arestis and Sebastien Chaneac for making me laugh and to my friends and family for their love and support. Lastly, huge thanks to Sarah.

Greg BloomA huge thanks to my dedicated research assistant, Windi, for toughing it out with me in various locales. Being an RA is a tough job but somebody has to do it. The cumulative knowledge of my barkada (gang of friends) in Manila was elemental as usual. Thanks as always to Anna for her sanity-inducing sweetness on deadline. Thank you Alan in Sagada, and thanks to the gentlemen of the Mabanlay dap-ay (outdoor meeting place) in Dagdag for inviting me to your begnas (traditional community celebration).

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

960

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Ria de JongThank you to Destination Editor Sarah Reid for holding my hand through my first Lonely Planet adventure, and to Cristian Bonetto who trod the path before me. To my parents and sister who nurtured my love of the road less travelled and to Craig, Cisca and William who are my travelling circus tribe.

David EimerMuch gratitude to Htwe Htwe in Hsipaw for tips and transport and Samara and Yu Yu for Yangon guidance. Thanks to Laura Crawford and the rest of the Lonely Planet team in London. As ever, thanks to everyone who passed on advice along the way, whether knowingly or unwittingly.

Sarah ReidThank you to my managers at Lonely Planet for supporting my amazing Timor-Leste adventure; to my brilliant local guide Luis for your careful driving, infinite patience and wealth of local knowledge; to all the other kind, helpful people I met in Timor-Leste (shout-outs to Des, Neyl, Megan and Dan) and finally to Timmy, my partner in travel and in life.

Simon RichmondTerima kasih (thank you) to the following: Nozara Yusof, Alex Yong, Andrew Sebastian, Narelle McMurtrie, Gregers Reimann and Scott Dunn.

Iain StewartThanks to Nick Ray, Laura Crawford and the Lonely Planet editorial and production staff. On the ground we benefited from a fine team of authors: Anna, Brett, Jess and Ben. Hi to Slo and Mark in HCMC, Caroline and Neil, Vinh Vu, Ben and Bich, Howard and Deb, Mark and Dzung in Hoi An.

Ryan Ver BerkmoesMany thanks to friends like the extraordinary Amy Brenneman, Romy and Lola; the incomparable

Hanafi; Patticakes, Ibu Cat, Stuart, Rucina and Kerry and Milt Turner. Off-Bali: Amber Clifton, Paul Landgraver, Ilham, Saripa, Philip, Edwin and many, many more were generous with time, ideas and expertise. And Alexis Averbuck, who I once met in Bali and who I married while writing this book.

Richard WatersMy sincere thanks to the people of Laos who welcome me like an old friend every time I’m lucky enough to visit, and to my editor, Laura, for sending me back there again. In no particular order my thanks also to Eliz V, Dennis, Mr Saly, Harp, Marcus, Michel S, Ivan, Matt V, Basile and finally my wife and kids who allow me to disappear to strange places.

China WilliamsThanks to my children, Felix and Phoebe, and my husband, Matt, for being my best travelling com-panions. And thanks to my beloved Thai friends and former students who I get to hang out with on a daily basis on Facebook. Thanks to Sarah Reid for making room for me on this project, and finally to all of Lonely Planet’s other Thailand writers who assisted on the project.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Illustrations p94-5, p652-3 and p854-5 by Michael Weldon.

Cover photograph: Temple detail, Angkor, Cambodia/Csilla Zelko 500px ©

961

THIS BOOKThis 18th edition of Lonely Planet’s Southeast Asia on a Shoestring guidebook was researched and written by Nick Ray, Isabel Albiston, Greg Bloom, Ria de Jong, David Eimer, Sarah Reid, Simon Richmond, Iain Stewart, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Richard Waters and China Williams. Additional research for Cambodia was provided by Jessica Lee. Additional research for Indonesia was provided by Loren Bell, Stuart Butler, Trent Holden, Anna Kaminski, Hugh McNaugh-ten, Adam Skolnick and Iain Stewart. Additional research for Malaysia was provided by Greg Benchwick, Anita Isalska,

Robert Scott Kelly and Brett Stewart. Original research for Myanmar was provided by David Eimer. Additional research for Singapore was provided by Cristian Bonetto. Additional research for Thailand was provided by Mark Beales, Tim Bewer, Joe Bindloss, Austin Bush, David Eimer, Bruce Evans, Damian Harper and Isabella Noble. Additional research for Vietnam was provided by Brett Atkinson, Anna Kamin-ski, Jessica Lee and Benedict Walker. This guidebook was commissioned and produced by the following:Destination Editors Laura Crawford, Sarah ReidCoordinating Editor Andrea Dobbin

Product Editors Kate Mathews, Luna SooSenior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Wendy WrightAssisting Editors Carolyn Bain, Carolyn Boicos, Paul Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Ali Lemer, Jodie Martire, Susan Paterson, Ross Taylor, Amanda WilliamsonCartographers Julie Dodkins, Michael Garrett, Valentina Kremenchuskaya, Alison Lyall, Julie SheridanCover Researcher Campbell McKenzieThanks to Anita Banh, Grace Dobell, Bruce Evans, Mao Monkolransey, Catherine Naghten, Stephen Nolan, Kirsten Rawlings, Juan Winata

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd962

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 22, 41,

934, see also individual locations

activities 27-30, 42-51, see also birdwatching, diving & snorkelling, kayaking, kitesurfing, rafting, rock climbing, surfing, trekking

adventure toursCambodia 113, 114,

117, 137Indonesia 169, 251, 278Laos 329, 337, 342, 351,

358, 363-4Malaysia 401Vietnam 847, 879

Air Batang 419air travel 939, 940-1Alor 248Alor Setar 413-14Amarapura 517Amed 217Ampana 287amusement parks 625An Thoi Islands 897Anakalang 252Andaman Coast 754-74Ang Thong Marine National

Park 737Angkor, temples of 11, 94-5,

101-6, 90-1, 10-11, 94-5itineraries 102

animals, see also dolphin- watching, elephant encounters, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries, wildlife-watching

butterflies 92doucs 139dugong 793 exploitation 304gibbons 138, 139, 190, 355

Komodo dragons 240, 14macaques 209, 624monkeys 677, 843orangutans 270, 276, 277-

8, 444, 458, 459turtles 419, 422whale sharks 273, 568,

578, 593Annah Rais 458-9Apo Island 579architecture 26, 762, 927art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 26, 927Asean Economic Commu-

nity 917, 920Atauro Island 798-9Ayeyarwady 527Ayuthaya 671-6, 672

BBa Be National Park 836-7Bac Ha 837-8Bach Ma National Park 857Bagan 12, 521-30, 522, 525,

12, 37Bago 496-7Baguia 800Baguio 562-4Bai Lang 868Bai Tu Long Bay 834Bajawa 245Bako National Park 457Balangan Beach 203Bali 14, 192-222, 193, 14

dangers 192history 192travel to/from 192-4travel within 194

Balian Beach 221Balibó 801Baliem Valley 297-9Balikpapan 278bà·mèe 662, 662bamboo train 107Ban Khoun Kham 356

Ban Lung 133-6, 134Banaue 565-6Banda Aceh 272-3Banda Islands 292-4Bandaneira 293-4Bandar Seri Begawan

59-64, 60Bandarlampung 265Bandung 168Bangar 64Bangkok 12, 645-71, 648-9,

654-5, 658-9, 12accommodation 657-61drinking & nightlife 666-7entertainment 667festivals & events 656food 661-6gay & lesbian travellers

666information 668-9shopping 667-71sights 645-56tours 656travel to/from 669travel within 669-71

Banteay Srei 104-5Banyuwangi 191-4bargaining 23, 936Bario 468-9Batad 566-7Batang Rejang 461-3bathing 934bathrooms 937-8, see

also individual countriesBattambang 106-10, 108Batu Caves 383Batu Karas 171Batugad 801Batutumonga 287Baucau 799Bayon 103beaches 25, 46

An Bang 868Bai Dai Beach 874Bali 195, 203, 207-8, 216,

225-6, 228-9, 238-9

Boracay 573-4China Beach 862Hat Khao Lak 757-8Indonesia 151Ko Chang 731Ko Samui 739Koh Rong 122Malaysia 380Mui Ne 875Nha Trang Beach 869Phu Thuan beach 859Pulau Tioman 419Sao Beach 897-8Sihanoukville 116-17Thuan An Beach 859Vietnam 812

Belaga 462-8Berastagi 265-7, 266Berau 279Betano 802-3bicycle travel, see cycling,

mountain bikingBilu Kyun 500-1Bima 239Bingin 203Bintulu 463birdwatching 51, 877boat travel 939-40, 941boat trips 46-7

Cambodia 72, 117, 124Indonesia 171, 242Malaysia 398, 430, 461-3Myanmar (Burma) 527Thailand 698Vietnam 833, 843, 872

Bogor 166-8, 167Bohol 587-90Bokor Hill Station 127Bokor National Park 127Bomba 288Bondowoso 189Bontoc 565books 916

Cambodia 145health 952history 921

963IN

DEX -B

–C

Indonesia 301Myanmar (Burma) 537religion 927Vietnam 904

Boracay 573-8, 574border crossings 939, 940,

942-4Brunei-Malaysia 63Cambodia-Laos 133Cambodia-Thailand

100, 111Cambodia-Vietnam 85,

105, 128, 135Indonesia-Malaysia

272, 277Indonesia–Papua New

Guinea 297Indonesia-Singapore 253Indonesia–Timor-Leste

250Laos-Cambodia 370Laos-China 351Laos-Thailand 328, 352,

357, 364Laos-Vietnam 346,

358, 360Malaysia-Brunei 449, 465Malaysia-Indonesia 400,

417, 447, 455Malaysia-Singapore 418Malaysia-Thailand 413,

415, 429Myanmar (Burma)–

China 521Myanmar (Burma)–Thai-

land 502, 509Singapore-Indonesia 641Singapore-Malaysia 640Thailand-Cambodia

731, 732Thailand-Laos 703,

724, 727Thailand-Malaysia

754, 774Thailand–Myanmar

(Burma) 704, 715, 717, 756

Timor-Leste–Indonesia 797

Vietnam-Cambodia 879, 893, 898

Vietnam-China 837Vietnam-Laos 842,

848, 849Borobudur 181-2Brunei Darussalam 52,

56-67, 58accommodation 66border crossings 63consulates 66culture 66

drinks 57embassies 66emergencies 57environment 66exchange rates 57food 56, 57, 66gay & lesbian travellers

66highlights 58history 65-7internet access 66itineraries 57language 57legal matters 66money 57, 67opening hours 67telephone services 67tourist offices 67travel seasons 56travel to/from 67visas 57, 67women travellers 67

Buddhism 924-5budget 21, 40-1Bukit Lawang 270-1Bukit Peninsula 202-5Bukit Timah Nature

Reserve 624Bukittinggi 258-61, 260Burma, see MyanmarBurmese language 953-4bus travel 941bushwalking, see trekkingbusiness hours, see

individual countries

CCambodia 52, 68-150, 70-1

accommodation 144-5activities 69, 145arts 143books 145border crossings 85, 100,

105, 111, 128, 133, 135budget 69climate 68consulates 145culture 142customs regulations 145disabilities, travellers

with 148drink 143economy 139electricity 145embassies 145emergencies 69environmental issues 144exchange rates 69food 143, 145

gay & lesbian travellers 146

geography 143-4highlights 70-1history 139-42insurance 145internet access 145itineraries 69language 69, 142legal matters 146maps 146money 69, 146opening hours 146-7planning 70-1politics 139population 142postal services 147public holidays 147religion 142safety 146, 147-8telephone services 148time 148travel to/from 149travel within 149-50visas 148volunteering 148-9wildlife 144work 149

Cameron Highlands 401-3, 402

Camiguin 591-2Can Tho 894-5Candidasa 218Canggu 201-2car travel 941-5Cat Ba Island 832-6Cat Ba National Park 833Cat Tien National Park 877cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves 50

Batu Caves 383Fairy Cave 459Goa Gajah 216Gomantong Caves 445Gunung Mulu National

Park 466-7Killing Caves of Phnom

Sampeau 110Niah National Park 463Pak Ou Caves 336Phnom Chhnork 126Phnom Sorsia 126-7Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 19, 846-7, 19

Puerto Princesa Subter-ranean River National Park 594

Tham Kong Lo 356Vang Vieng 329Vieng Xai 348-9Wind Cave 459Xe Bang Fai 360

Cebu 580-7Cebu City 581-6, 582-3cell phones 21cemeteries

Bukit China 398Chung Kai War Cemetery

712Kanchanaburi War

Cemetery 711Santa Cruz Cemetery

792Truong Son National

Cemetery 859Cemoro Lawang 188-9Chaliang 682Cham Islands 868-9Champasak 366-7Chanthaburi 728-30Chau Doc 896Cherating 422Chi Phat 115Chiang Khong 705-6Chiang Mai 15, 685-97,

686-7, 15accommodation 691-3activities 689courses 689-90drinking & nightlife 695entertainment 695festivals & events 691food 693-5information 696-7shopping 695-6sights 685-8travel to/from 697travel within 697

Chiang Rai 698-703, 700Chiang Saen 705children, travel with, see

individual countriesChina 917China Beach 862Chong Kneas 98Christianity 927Chua Bai Dinh 843Chumphon 737-8churches & cathedrals

Gereja Sion 154-5Notre Dame Cathedral

882St Paul’s Church 395-7

Cianjur 168climate 20, 27-30Com 800

964

IND

EX C–

H

consulates 935Brunei Darussalam 66Cambodia 145Indonesia 308Laos 376Malaysia 474Myanmar (Burma) 539Philippines 604Singapore 639Thailand 783-4Timor-Leste 808-9Vietnam 908

cooking coursesCambodia 72, 93, 107Laos 321, 336Singapore 626-7Thailand 689-90Vietnam 824, 865, 886

COPE Visitor Centre 322Cordillera, the 562-7Coron 598-9costs 21, 40-1courses, see cooking

courses, language courses, individual locations

Cu Chi 893-4Cuc Phuong National Park

843-6culture 26, see also indi-

vidual countriescurrency, see moneycustoms regulations,

see individual countriescutaneous larva migrans

948cycling 44-5, 941

Cambodia 73-4, 93, 106, 133-4

Indonesia 230Laos 342, 375Myanmar (Burma) 44Thailand 681-2, 762

DDalat 878-82, 880Danang 859-62, 860Danau Bratan 219Danau Maninjau 261-2Danau Toba 262-5, 263dangers, see safetyDawei 502Death Railway Bridge 711Demilitarised Zone (DMZ)

858-9

dengue 948Denpasar 205-7, 206Dien Bien Phu 841-2Dieng Plateau 172Dili 792-8, 794

accommodation 795activities 793drinking & nightlife

796-7festivals & events 793-5food 796information 797-8shopping 797sights 792-3tours 793travel to/from 798travel within 798

disabilities, travellers with 938

Malaysia 476Myanmar (Burma) 542Philippines 605Singapore 640Thailand 786Vietnam 910

discount cards 934discrimination 934-5diving & snorkelling 47-8

Bali (Indonesia) 208, 217, 219, 222

Cambodia 117, 123Kalimantan (Indonesia)

279Malaysia 419, 425, 446,

448Nusa Tenggara

(Indonesia) 226, 229, 230, 232, 233, 235, 240, 242-3, 248

Philippines 571, 579, 586, 587, 591-2, 598, 49

Sulawesi (Indonesia) 290

Sumatra (Indonesia) 273-4

Thailand 743, 748, 757-8, 758-9, 761, 770, 772

Timor-Leste 793, 798Vietnam 865, 871

Doi Inthanon National Park 698

dolphin-watching 132, 369, 593

dôm yam 662, 662Don Det 369-72Don Khon 369-72Don Khong 367-9Donsol 568-9drinking 26, see also

individual locations

driving, see car travelDumaguete 578-9Duong Dong 897

Eeconomy 916-17, 920-1El Nido 596-8electricity 935, see also in-

dividual countrieselephant encounters 271,

689, 707, 722, 731embassies, see consulates,

individual countriesemergencies, see individual

countriesEnde 245-6environmental issues 930-1

deforestation 144, 305, 349, 374-5, 473-4, 538, 603, 782, 808, 930

endangered animals 538, 782, 906-7

pollution 907silting 603

Erawan National Park 714ethnic groups

Akha 780, 922Hmong 780, 922Karen 780, 922Ngada 245Rohingya 530, 778Toraja 283, 286

etiquette 23Brunei Darussalam 67Indonesia 164, 235Laos 325, 373, 377Myanmar (Burma) 535Thailand 777trekking 137Vietnam 904

events 27-30, see also individual countries

Ffestivals & events 27-30,

see also individual countries

Filipino language 954films 916, 922Flores 14, 241-8food 24, 662-3, 928,


Fort Rotterdam 281

Ggaang kĕe·o wăhn 662gardens, see parks &

gardens

gay & lesbian travellers 935Malaysia 475Myanmar (Burma) 540Philippines 604Singapore 639Thailand 784Vietnam 909

George Town 14, 405-11, 406, 14

Gili Air 231-3, 232Gili Islands 19, 230-7, 19Gili Meno 233-4, 234Gili Trawangan 234-8, 236Gilimanuk 221-2Golden Triangle 703-6golf 93Gorontalo 288-9Grand Palace (Bangkok)

645, 650, 652-3, 652-3Gunung Batukau 220Gunung Batur 218-19Gunung Bromo 187-9Gunung Gading National

Park 459-60Gunung Kawi 216Gunung Leuser National

Park 270Gunung Merapi 180Gunung Mulu National Park

466-8Gunung Rinjani 227, 228Gunung Sibayak 266

HHa Tien 896-7Haiphong 836Halong Bay 12, 831-2, 13Halong City 832Hanoi 816-31, 817, 818-19,

820-1, 822accommodation 824-5courses 823-4drinking & nightlife

827-8entertainment 828food 825-7information 828-30shopping 828sights 816-23tours 823-4travel to/from 830-1travel within 831

Hat Khao Lak 757-8Hat Ya 753-4Hatubuilico 802health 946-52

books 952insurance 946


965IN

DEX H

–K

vaccinations 946womens 952

Hellfire Pass Memorial 714hepatitis 948-9hiking, see trekkinghill stations 919Hinduism 927history 918-21

books 921hitching 945HIV 949Ho Chi Minh 819-20, 903Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

882-93, 883, 884, 886, 888, 889, 891

accommodation 886-7courses 886entertainment 890-1food 887-9information 892shopping 891-2sights 882-6tours 886travel to/from 892-3travel within 893

Hoa Lu 843Hoan Kiem Lake 816Hoi An 11, 863-8, 864,

11, 844Hon Lau 868horse riding 93hot-air ballooning 333Hpa-An 501-2Hsipaw 520-1Hua Hin 734-6Huay Xai 354-6Hue 849-58, 850-1, 854-5Hu’u 238-9

IIfugao rice terraces 18,

565-6, 18Ijen Plateau 189-91Imperial Citadel (Hue) 850-

3, 850-1, 854-5 Imperial Citadel of Thang

Long 823 Indonesia 53, 151-313, 153

accommodation 307-8activities 152books 301border crossings 250,

253, 272, 277, 297budget 152climate 151consulates 308culture 215, 303, 304customs regulations 308

drinks 307electricity 308embassies 308emergencies 152environment 304-5etiquette 164, 235exchange rates 152festivals & events 175,

184, 252, 308-9films 302food 305-7, 309gay & lesbian travellers

309highlights 153history 300-3internet access 309itineraries 152, 241language 152legal matters 309money 152, 309-10opening hours 310politics 300population 303-4religion 304safety 310telephone services 310time 310toilets 310travel to/from 311travel within 311-13visas 152, 310volunteering 311

Indonesian language 954-5influenza 949Inle Lake 16, 503-6, 16insurance 935, see also in-

dividual countrieshealth 946

internet access 935, see also individual countries

internet resources 21Inwa 517-18Ipoh 403-4Isan 726Islam 925-7itineraries 31-9, 31, 32, 33,

34, 35, 36, 38-9Brunei Darussalam 57Cambodia 69Indonesia 152, 241Laos 315Malaysia 381, 480Philippines 546Singapore 610Thailand 644Timor-Leste 790Vietnam 813

JJaco Island 800-1Jakarta 154-66, 156, 159,

160, 163accommodation 158-61activities 154-8drinking & nightlife 162-3emergencies 164entertainment 163-4festivals & events 158internet access 164medical services 164shopping 164sights 154-8tourist information 164tours 158travel to/from 165travel within 165-6

Japanese B Encephalitis 950

Japanese Covered Bridge 863

Java 153-91, 154-5Jayapura 294-6Jerantut 428-9Jimbaran 203Johor Bahru 416-17Juara 420

KKabayan 562Kalaw 506-8, 507Kalimantan 274-9, 275Kaliurang 180Kamphaeng Phet 684-5Kampong Ayer 59Kampot 124-6, 125Kampot pepper 126Kampung Baru 388Kanchanaburi 711-14, 712Kangar 414Kapit 461-2Karasik 286Kawah Ijen 190kayaking 46-7

Cambodia 106-7, 130Laos 329, 343, 369-

70, 375Thailand 731, 761-2, 772Vietnam 834, 879

Kelabit Highlands 468-9Kelimutu 246Kep 127-8Kerobokan 197-9, 199-

200, 198Ke’te Kesu 286Khao Sok National Park

757

Khao Yai National Park 719-20

Khe Sanh Combat Base 859

Khmer language 955-6Kinabalu National Park

440-1King Sidabutar Grave 262kitesurfing 48-9

Philippines 574-5Thailand 762Vietnam 875, 25

KL Bird Park 387KL Forest Eco Park 383Ko Chang 730-4, 755-6Ko Lanta 772-4Ko Pha-Ngan 743-8, 744,

746Ko Phayam 756-7Ko Phi-Phi 770-2, 770, 772Ko Samet 728, 729Ko Samui 738-43, 740Ko Tao 748-52, 749, 750Ko Tarutao Marine National

Park 774Koh Dach 86Koh Kong City 113-15, 113Koh Kong Conservation

Corridor 115Koh Kong Island 114Koh Paen 129Koh Rong 122-4Koh Rong Sanloem 122-4Koh Russei 124Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island)

127Komodo National Park 14,

239-41, 14Kompong Cham 129-30Kompong Luong 87Kompong Pluk 98Kompong Thom 111-12Kong Lo Village 356-7Kota Ambon 291-2Kota Bharu 426-8, 427Kota Kinabalu 432-40, 436kôw mòk 662kôw soy 662Krabi Town 767-8Kratie 130-2, 131Krui 265Kuala Besut 424Kuala Lumpur 383-94,

384, 386-7, 390accommodation 388-9drinking & nightlife 391-2food 389-91internet access 392medical services 392

966

IND

EX K–

M

Kuala Lumpur continuedmoney 392shopping 392sights 383-8tourist information 393travel to/from 393travel within 393-4

Kuala Terengganu 422-4, 422

Kuantan 421, 421Kubah National Park 459Kuching 450-6, 452Kumai 277Kundasang War Memorial

441Kupang 248-9, 249Kuta 195-201, 228-30, 196Kyaingtong 508-9

LLabuanbajo 242-4Labuhan Lombok 230Laga 800lâhp 662Lak Sao 356-7lakes

Boeng Yeak Lom 133Danau Maninjau 261-2Danau Toba 262-5Hoan Kiem Lake 816Ho Tay 823Inle Lake 16, 16Kawah Ijen 190Tonlé Bati 86

Lambir Hills National Park 464

Lan Ha Bay 833language courses 690, 824languages 23, 953-8

Burmese 953-4Filipino 954Indonesian 954-5Khmer 955-6Lao 956Malay 954-5Tetun 956Thai 957-8Vietnamese 958

Lao Cai 837Lao language 956Laos 53, 314-79, 316-17

accommodation 375activities 315, 375-6books 376

border crossings 328, 346, 351, 352, 357, 358, 360, 364, 370

budget 315climate 314consulates 376culture 373custom regulations 376disabilities, travellers

with 378drinks 374economy 372electricity 376embassies 376emergencies 315environment 374-5etiquette 325, 373, 377festivals & events 337food 374, 376gay & lesbian travellers

377highlights 316-17history 372-3itineraries 315language 315legal matters 376-7money 315, 377opening hours 377politics 372population 374postal services 377public holidays 377religion 374safety 345, 377telephone services 315toilets 378tourist information 378travel to/from 378travel within 378-9visas 315volunteering 378women travellers 378work 378

Larantuka 247-8legal matters 935-6,


Legazpi 567-8Leihitu 292Lembar 224-5Lemo 286leptospirosis 949lesbian travellers, see gay

& lesbian travellers, individual countries

Liquiçá 801literature, see booksLokomata 287Lombok 223-30, 224

Londa 286Lopburi 676-8Lospalos 801Lovina 220-1Luang Namtha 350-3Luang Prabang 13, 333-41,

334, 13lunar calendar 27

MMae Hong Son 708-10Mae Sa Valley 698Mae Sai 704Mae Salong 704-5Mae Sariang 710Mae Sot 715-17Mai Chau 837Makale 287Makassar (Ujung Padang)

281-3, 282Malang 185-7Malapascua Island 587malaria 949Malay language 954-5Malaysia 53, 380-478, 382,

434-5accommodation 474arts 472border crossings (to

Brunei) 449, 465border crossings (to

Indonesia) 400, 417, 447, 455

border crossings (to Singapore) 418

border crossings (to Thailand) 413, 415, 429

budget 381climate 380consulates 474culture 471-2customs regulations 474disabilities, travellers

with 476drinks 381, 473embassies 474emergencies 381environment 473-4festivals & events 474-8food 381, 472-3, 475gay & lesbian travellers

475highlights 382history 470-1internet access 475itineraries 381language 381legal matters 475

money 381, 475opening hours 475politics 469-70public holidays 475religion 472telephone services 381tourist information 476travel to/from 476-7travel within 477visas 381, 476women travellers 476

Maluk 238Maluku 290-4, 291Manado 289Mandalay 509-17, 510,

512-13Manila 547-62, 550-1, 554,

556, 558accommodation 553-5drinking & nightlife

557-9food 556-7gay & lesbian travellers

560information 559-60shopping 559sights 547-52tours 552-3travel to/from 560-1travel within 560-1

Marante 287Marble Mountains 862markets 26

Bangkok 650-1, 664, 667-8

Chiang Mai 696Ende 245-6floating 664Hanoi 828Ho Chi Minh City 891Jakarta 158, 164Kota Bharu 426Kota Kinabalu 432Kuala Lumpur 392Kuala Terengganu 422Luang Prabang 340Mae Sot 715Makale 287Melaka 400Nong Khai 725Phnom Penh 82-3Soe 249Tomohon 290Yangon 491Yogyakarta 173

massage 51Cambodia 74, 92-3, 107,

117, 124Laos 336, 342, 362


967IN

DEX M

–N

Thailand 689, 706Vietnam 865

Mataram 225Maubara 801Maubisse 802Maumere 247Mawlamyine 499-500measles 949Medan 267-70, 268medical services 947-8meditation 51, 321-2, 690Mekong Delta 894-900,

895Mekong Discovery Trail 130Melaka 394-401, 396Mengwi 221Mentawai Islands 258Mentirotiku 287Mersing 417-18Mindanao 589-92Mindoro 569-72Mingun 518Miri 464-6Moalboal 586-7mobile phones 21Mondulkiri Province 136-9money 21, 23, 40-1, 936,


Moni 246-7Monywa 530mosques 24

Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque 59-60

Masjid Amirul Mukminin 281

Masjid Jamek 385Masjid Kampung Kling

398Masjid Negara 388Mesjid Raya Baiturrah-

man 272Omar Ali Saifuddien

Mosque 59motorcycle travel 45-6,

878, 941-5mountain biking 833, 871-

2, 877, 879mountaineering 440-1, 568Mrauk U 532-4, 533Mt Kinabalu 440-1Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock)

498-9Mt Matebian 800Mt Mayon 568Mt Popa 528Mt Ramelau 802Muang Ngoi Neua 343-4Mui Ne 875-8, 876Mukdahan 723

Munduk 219museums & galleries 927

Adityawarman Museum 255

Agnes Keith House 442Agung Rai Museum of

Art 209Angkor National Mu-

seum 89Asian Civilisations

Museum 611Baba & Nyonya Heritage

Museum 397Balai Seni Rupa 157Battambang Museum

106Cambodia Landmine

Museum 92Champasak Historical

Heritage Museum 362Dien Bien Phu Museum

841Ethnology Museum 450HCMC Museum 882History Museum (Ho Chi

Minh City) 883Hotel Tugu Malang 186House of Danar Hadi 183Islamic Arts Museum

385-7Istana Batu 426Istana Jahar 426Istana Mangkunegaran

182-3Killing Fields of Choeung

Ek 72Kompleks Muzium

Negeri Terengganu 423-4

Kraton Surakarta 182Luang Nam Tha Museum

351Maritime Museum &

Naval Museum 397Merapi Museum 180Musée Des Dinosaures

360-1Museum Bahari 157Museum Bank

Indonesia 155Museum Bank Mandiri

157Museum Huta Bolon

Simanindo 263-4Museum Loka Budaya

294-6Museum Nasional

(Jakarta) 157Museum Negeri Propinsi

Bali 205Museum of North

Sumatra 267

Museum Puri Lukisan 209

Museum Sejarah Jakarta 155

Museum Wayang 155National Gallery Singa-

pore 611National Museum

(Bangkok) 651National Museum (Kuala

Lumpur) 388National Museum

(Yangon) 483National Museum of

Cambodia 72National Museum of

Singapore 611National Museum of the

Filipino People 552National Museum of

Vietnamese History 816

National Visual Arts Gallery 388

Neka Art Museum 209Penang Museum 407Peranakan Museum 611Pinang Peranakan

Mansion 407Resistance Museum 792Royal Abu Bakar

Museum 416Royal Palace Museum

333Sabah Museum 432Savannakhet Provincial

Museum 360Sono-Budoyo Museum

173TAEC 336Tsunami Museum 272Tuol Sleng Museum of

Genocidal Crimes 72Ullen Sentalu 180UXO Laos Information

Centre 335Vietnam Museum of

Ethnology 823War Remnants Museum

885Xieng Khuan 318

My Son 869Myanmar (Burma) 53,

479-544, 481accommodation 539arts 537-8books 537border crossings 502,

509, 521budget 480climate 479consulates 539

culture 479, 535-9customs regulations 539disabilities, travellers

with 542drinks 538-9economy 534-5embassies 539emergencies 480environment 538etiquette 535exchange rates 480festivals & events 540food 479, 538, 540gay & lesbian travellers

540highlights 481history 535internet access 540itineraries 480language 480legal matters 540money 480, 541opening hours 541politics 534-5, 916public holidays 541religion 536-7safety 541-2tourist information 542travel seasons 479travel to/from 543travel within 543-4visas 542-3volunteering 543women travellers 543

NNakhon Phanom 723-5Nakhon Ratchasima

(Khorat) 717-19, 718Nam Ha National

Protectetd Area 350Nanggala 287national parks & reserves

Ang Thong Marine National Park 737

Ba Be National Park 836-7

Bach Ma National Park 857Bako National Park 457Bokor National Park 127Bukit Timah Nature

Reserve 624Cat Ba National Park

833Cat Tien National Park

877Cuc Phuong National

Park 843-6

968

IND

EX N–

P

national parks & reserves continued

Doi Inthanon National Park 698

Erawan National Park 714Gunung Gading National

Park 459-60Gunung Leuser National

Park 270Gunung Mulu National

Park 466-8Kelimutu National Park

246Kep National Park 127Khao Sok National

Park 757Khao Yai National Park

719-20Kinabalu National Park

440-1KL Forest Eco Park 383Ko Tarutao Marine

National Park 774Komodo National Park

14, 239-40, 14Kubah National Park 459Lambir Hills National

Park 464Nam Ha National

Protected Area 350Niah National Park 463-4Pangandaran National

Park 169Peam Krasaop Mangrove

Sanctuary 113Penang National Park 412Phong Nha-Ke Bang


Phu Hin Bun National Protected Area 356

Phu Quoc National Park 898

Puerto Princesa Subter-ranean River National Park 594

Semenggoh Nature Reserve 458

Similan Islands Marine National Park 759

Surin Islands Marine National Park 758-9

Taman Nasional Bali Barat 222

Tanjung Puting National Park 277-8

Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park 433

Ulu Temburong National Park 64-5

Virachey National Park 133

Way Kambas National Park 265

Negros 578-80Ngadisari 189Nha Trang 869-75, 870Niah National Park 463-4nightlife 26, see also

individual locationsNinh Binh 842-3None 250Nong Khai 725-7Nong Khiaw 341-3Nusa Dua 205Nusa Lembongan 207-8Nusa Tenggara 223-53,

222-3Nyaungshwe 503-6, 504

OOecussi 803opening hours, see

individual countriesOrk Phansaa 30Ossu 800

PPadang 255-7, 256Padang Padang 203-4Padangbai 216-18Paga 247pagodas, see temples,

pagodas & stupasPai 706-8Pakse 362-6, 363palaces

Grand Palace (Bangkok) 645, 650, 652-3, 652-3

Imperial Citadel (Hue) 850-3, 850-1, 854-5

Imperial Citadel of Thang Long 823

Istana Mangkunegaran 182-3

Istana Nurul Iman 60King Palace (Dalat) 879Klunkkung Palace 216Kraton 173Kraton Surakarta 182Mandalay Palace 511Reunification Palace 885Royal Palace (Phnom

Penh) 74, 19Taman Sari 173Taman Tirta Gangga 218

Palawan 17, 592-9, 17Pangandaran 169-71, 170Pangkalan Bun 276-7Panglao Island 589Pantai Cenang 414Pantai Lakey 238-9Pantai Mahata 803Pantai Tengah 415-16Pantemakassar 803Papua (Irian Jaya) 294-

300, 295permits 296

parks & gardens, see also individual countries

Gardens by the Bay 616Kebun Raya 166KLCC Park 385Perdana Botanical

Garden 387Sacred Monkey Forest

Sanctuary 209Singapore Botanic

Gardens 621Tat Kuang Si 336Tropical Spice Garden

412Tun Abdul Razak Herit-

age Park 385-8Pasola 252passports 21, 936pàt pàk bûng fai daang

662pàt tai 662Pata 287Pathein 494-5Peam Krasaop Mangrove

Sanctuary 113Pemuteran 222Penang 404-13, 405Penang National Park 412Peninsula Malaysia 395

East Coast 416-28interior 428-32West Coast 394-416

Peranakans 471Petronas Towers 385Pha That Luang 318Phanom Rung Historical

Park 720-1Philippines 54, 545-608,

548-9accommodation 604activities 546arts 602beaches 545budget 546climate 545, 604consulates 604culture 545, 601-2


drinks 602-3embassies 604emergencies 546environment 603-8exchange rates 546films 601food 602-3, 604gay & lesbian travellers

604highlights 548-9history 600-1internet access 604itineraries 546language 546money 546, 604-5opening hours 605politics 599-600public holidays 605travel seasons 545travel to/from 606-7travel within 607-8visas 605-6volunteering 606

Phimai 720Phitsanulok 678-9Phnom Banan 111Phnom Kulen 105Phnom Penh 19, 72-86, 72,

76-7, 78accommodation 74-5activities 72-4drinking & nightlife 80-1emergencies 83entertainment 81-2food 75-80internet access 83medical services 83shopping 82-3sights 72tourist information 83tours 74travel to/from 84-6travel within 86

Phnom Sampeau 110Phnom Tamao Wildlife

Sanctuary 87Phong Nha-Ke Bang


Phonsavan 344-7photography 936Phu Hin Bun National

Protected Area 356Phu Quoc Island 897-900Phu Quoc National Park

898Phuket 759-67, 760


969IN

DEX P

–S

Pindaya 506Plain of Jars 347planning, see also

individual countriesactivities 42-51budgeting 21, 40-1calendar of events 27-30first-time travellers 22-3internet resources 21itineraries 31-9, 31, 32,

33, 34, 35, 36, 38-9Southeast Asia basics

20-1Southeast Asia’s coun-

tries 52-4travel seasons 20, 27-30

plantations 401politics 916-17population 917Port Barton 595-6Poso 287postal services 936,


Poto Tano 238Prachuap Khiri Khan 736-7Praigoli 252Praiyawang 251Prambanan 179-81Prasat Preah Vihear 112Pretty Kapas 420Probolinggo 189Puerto Galera 569-72, 570Puerto Princesa 592-4Pulau Ambon 291-2Pulau Banda Besar 294Pulau Batu Daka 288Pulau Bunaken 290Pulau Derawan 279Pulau Hatta 294Pulau Kadidiri 288Pulau Labuan 449-50Pulau Langkawi 414-16Pulau Nias 267Pulau Perhentian 424-6Pulau Samosir 262-5Pulau Ternate 293Pulau Tidore 293Pulau Tioman 418-21, 419Pulau Weh 273-6Pyay 497-8Pyin Oo Lwin 518-20

RRaba 239rabies 949rafting 46-7, 375, 706, 871-2Railay 768-9

Raja Ampat Islands 299-300

Ramayana 925Ranong 754-5Rantepao 283-6Rantung 238Ratanakiri Province 132-6religion 924-7

animism 924books 927Buddhism 924-5Christianity 927Hinduism 927Islam 925-7

reserves, see national parks & reserves

responsible travel 44, 48, 930-3

Rinca 239-41rock climbing 49-50

Cambodia 124Laos 329, 357-8, 375Thailand 768-9, 770Vietnam 833-4, 879

Roxas 572Royal Tombs (Hue) 856Ruteng 244

SSabah 18, 432-50Sabang 571-2, 594-5safety 936-7

boats 242, 312Cambodia 146, 147-8drugs 147Indonesia 310Laos 345, 377Myanmar 541-2Singapore 640Thailand 785unexploded ordnance

345Vietnam 909

Sagada 564-5Sagaing 518Saigon, see Ho Chi Minh

Citysailing 834, 875Salang 419-20Sam Neua 347-8Sambor Prei Kuk 112-13Same 802-3Sandakan 442-4Sangkhalok Kilns 682Sangkhlaburi 714-15Santubong Peninsula 457-8Sanur 207Sapa 838-41, 840

Sape 239Sarawak 18, 450-69, 18Savannakhet 360-2, 361scams 937, see

also individual countries

Semarapura (Klungkung) 216

Semenggoh Nature Reserve 458

Seminyak 195-201, 198Semporna 446-7Semporna Archipelago

448-9Sen Monorom 136-9Senaru 228Senggigi 225-7, 226Sentani 296-7Sentosa Island 626Sepilok 444-5shopping 26, see also

individual locationsSi Phan Don (Four

Thousand Islands) 15, 367-72, 368, 15

Si Satchanalai 682Siargao 590-2Sibu 460-1Sidemen Road 216Siem Reap 87, 89-101, 88

accommodation 93-6activities 92-3courses 93drinking & nightlife 98entertainment 98-9food 96-8shopping 99sights 89-92tours 93travel to/from 100-1travel within 101

Sihanoukville 116-22, 116, 119, 120

Similan Islands Marine National Park 759

Singapore 17, 54, 609-42, 612-13, 614-15, 618, 620, 622, 626, 17

accommodation 627-9, 639

activities 625-6border crossings 640,

641budget 610climate 609consulates 639courses 626-7culture 609, 638customs regulations 639


drinking & nightlife 632-5

drinks 610embassies 639emergencies 610, 636entertainment 635environment 638exchange rates 610festivals & events 627food 609, 610, 629-32,

639gay & lesbian travellers

639highlights 612-13history 637-8internet access 636itineraries 610language 610legal matters 639medical services 637money 610, 639opening hours 639public holidays 640safety 640shopping 635-6sights 611-25tourist information 637tours 627travel seasons 609travel to/from 641-2travel within 642visas 610, 641volunteering 641women travellers 641

Sipadan 448Sipalay 579-80Siquijor 580Sittwe 530-2snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingSoe 249-50Solo (Surakarta) 182-5,

183sôm·đam 662, 662Sorong 299spas 51, 209Stadthuys 394-5Stone Chairs 263Stung Treng 132stupas, see temples,

pagodas & stupasSuai 803Sukhothai 679-84, 680Sulawesi 279-90, 280Sumatra 253-74, 254Sumba 250-5

970

IND

EX S–T

Sumbawa 237-9Sumbawa Besar 238Sungai Kinabatangan 445-6Surabaya 190Surat Thani 752-3surfing 48-9

Indonesia 169, 191, 195, 204, 229, 238-9, 258, 267, 306, 42

Malaysia 422Philippines 590Singapore 626Thailand 762Vietnam 875

Surin 721-2Surin Islands Marine

National Park 758-9

TTa Prohm 104Tagbilaran 588Tam Coc 843Taman Nasional Bali Barat

222Taman Negara 429-32Tambolaka 252-3Tampangallo 287Tana Toraja 283-7, 284Tangkahan 271-2Tanjung Benoa 205Tanjung Puting National

Park 277-8Taungoo 497Tay Ninh 894Temburong District 64-6temples, pagodas &

stupas 24Angkor, temples of 11,

94-5, 101-6, 90-1, 10-11, 94-5

Arjuna Complex 172Arulmigu Sri Raja

Kalliamman 416Bach Ma Temple 816Bagan 12, 521-30, 522,

525, 12, 37Bakong 104Banteay Srei 104-5Bayon 103Beng Mealea 105Borobudur Temple 181-2Botataung Paya 483Candi Jago 188Candi Kidal 188Candi Singosari 188

Candi Sukuh 185Candi Sumberawan 188Chaukhtatgyi Paya 483Cheng Hoon Teng

Temple 398Jade Emperor Pagoda

883Jin De Yuan 158Kbal Spean 105Kek Lok Si Temple 412-13Koh Ker 105-6Kuan Yin Teng 407-8Kyaikthanlan Paya 499Mahamuni Paya 510Mendut Temple &

Monastery 182Ngahtatgyi Paya 483Pha That Luang 318Phnom Bakheng 104Plaosan Temples 180Po Nagar Cham Towers

869Prambanan Temples

179-80Prasat Preah Vihear 112Preah Khan 104Preah Neak Poan 104Pura Lingsar 225Pura Luhur Batukau 220Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 204Pura Meru 225Pura Ulun Danau Bratan

219Sam Poh Temple 401Sambor Prei Kuk 112-13Settayaw Paya 494-5Shwe Oo Min Natural

Cave Pagoda 506Shwedagon Paya 482-3Shwemawdaw Paya 496Shwemokhtaw Paya 494Shwethalyaung Buddha

496Sin Sze Si Ya Temple 385Sri Mahamariamman

Temple 383Sule Paya 483Ta Prohm 104Temple of Literature 819Thien Mu Pagoda 853To Mieu Temple Complex

852Wat Arun 650Wat Banan 111Wat Chedi Luang 685Wat Ek Phnom 111Wat Kiri Sela 127Wat Nokor Bachey 129Wat Phnom 72

Wat Pho 650Wat Phra Kaew 645-50,

652-3, 652-3Wat Phra Si Ratana

Mahathat 678Wat Phra Singh 685Wat Phra That Doi

Suthep 687Wat Phu Champasak 366Wat Ratburana 678Wat Si Saket 318Wat Thmei 92Wat Wisunarat 335Wat Xieng Mouane 336Wat Xieng Thong 333-5Yadana Man Aung Paya

503Tentena 287terrorism 921Tetun 956Thai boxing 690Thai language 957-8Thailand 52, 643-788,

646-7accommodation 782-3arts 779-81border crossings (to

Cambodia) 731, 732border crossings (to

Laos) 703, 724, 727border crossings (to

Malaysia) 754, 774border crossings (to

Myanmar) 704, 715, 717, 756

climate 643consulates 783-4culture 643, 778-9customs regulations 783disabilities, travellers

with 786drinks 781-2embassies 783-4emergencies 644environment 782ethnic groups 780etiquette 777exchange rates 644festivals & events 784food 643, 644, 781, 784,

25, 662-3gay & lesbian travellers

784highlights 646-7history 775-7internet access 784itineraries 644language 644legal matters 784

money 644, 784opening hours 785politics 775, 916public holidays 785religion 779safety 785scams 645tourist information 786travel seasons 643travel to/from 786travel within 786-8visas 786volunteering 786working 786

Tha Khaek 357-9That Phanom 725theft, see safetyTikala 287time zones 21Timor-Leste 16, 54, 789-

811, 791, 16accommodation 808activities 790arts 807border crossings 797budget 790climate 789consulates 808-9culture 789, 807customs regulations 808dangers 808embassies 808-9emergencies 790environment 808exchange rates 790food 809gay & lesbian travellers

809highlights 791history 804-7internet access 809itineraries 790language 790, 806legal matters 809money 790opening hours 809politics 804public holidays 809religion 807travel seasons 789travel to/from 810travel within 810-11visas 810volunteering 810women travellers 810

tipping 23Tirta Gangga 218Togean Islands 288


971IN

DEX T–

W

toilets 937-8, see also indi-vidual countries

Tomohon 290Tonlé Bati 86Tonlé Sap 144tourist information 938,


tours, see individual locations

Toya Bungkah 219train travel 945Trat 728-30travel to/from Southeast

Asia 939travel within Southeast

Asia 940-5trekking 24-5, 43-4, 45

Cambodia 134, 137Indonesia 180, 187, 190,

218-19, 220, 228, 266, 270, 287, 298

Laos 337, 342, 344, 375Malaysia 419, 430,

440-1, 467Philippines 568Thailand 689, 699-700,

708Vietnam 834, 877, 879

Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park 433

Tutuala 800-1typhoid 950

UUbon Ratchathani 722-3Ubud 208-16, 210, 212Udomxai 349-50Ulu Temburong National

Park 64-5Ulu Watu 204-5, 204unexploded ordnance

(UXO) 937

VVang Vieng 328-33, 330Venilale 800Vieng Xai 348-9Vientiane 318-28, 318,

320accommodation 322-3activities 318-21courses 321-2drinking & nightlife 325emergencies 326entertainment 325festivals & events 322food 323-5internet access 326

medical services 326shopping 325-8sights 318tourist information

326tours 322travel to/from 327travel within 327-8

Vietnam 54, 812-14, 814-15

accommodation 907arts 904-5books 904border crossings (to

Cambodia) 879, 893, 898

border crossings (to China) 837, 839

border crossings (to Laos) 842, 848, 849

budget 813children 908climate 812consulates 908disabilities, travellers

with 910drinks 813, 906economy 900-1embassies 908emergencies 813environment 906-7etiquette 904exchange rates 813films 901food 812, 813, 905-6,

908, 844gay & lesbian travellers

909highlights 814-15history 901-3insurance 909internet access 909itineraries 813language 813legal matters 909money 813, 909opening hours 909politics 900-1public holidays 909religion 904safety 909scams 824tourist information 910travel to/from 911-12travel within 912-14visas 910-11volunteering 911

Vietnamese language 958Vigan 567

Vinh Long 894Vinh Moc Tunnels 859Viqueque 800Virachey National Park 133visas 21, 938

Brunei Darussalam 57, 67Cambodia 148Indonesia 152, 310Laos 315Malaysia 381, 476Myanmar (Burma) 542-3Philippines 605-6Singapore 641Thailand 786Timor-Leste 810Vietnam 910-11

Visayas, the 572-89, 573volcanoes 45

Gunung Batur 218-19Gunung Merapi 180Gunung Rinjani 227, 228Gunung Sibayak 266Mt Mayon 568Pulau Ternate 293

volunteering 933Cambodia 148-9Indonesia 311Laos 378Myanmar (Burma) 543Philippines 606Singapore 641Thailand 786Timor-Leste 810Vietnam 911

WWaikabubak 251-2Waingapu 251Wakai 288Wamena 297-9Wat Phra Kaew 645-50,

652-3, 652-3Water Festival 29waterfalls

Anisakan Falls 518Bou Sraa Waterfall 136Chaa Ong 133Ka Tieng 133Kinchaan 133Monorom Falls 136Tatai Waterfall 115

Way Kambas National Park 265

weather 20, 27-30, 46, 49, see also individual regions

websites 21West Timor 248-50

wildlife reserves & sanctuaries, see also national parks & reserves, zoos

Banteay Srei Butterfly Centre 92

Bear & Wild Cat Rescue Station 877

Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station 894

Dao Tien Endangered Primate Species Centre 877

Elephant Valley Project 136

Endangered Primate Rescue Center 843

Jurong Bird Park 624-5Kota Kinabalu Wetland

Centre 432-3Matang Wildlife Centre

459Orangutan Feeding

Centre 270Philippine Tarsier

Sanctuary 588Phnom Tamao Wildlife

Sanctuary 87Phuket Gibbon Rehabili-

tation Project 761Sepilok Orangutan Reha-

bilitation Centre 444Turtle Conservation

Center 843wildlife-watching 50-1, 931

Cambodia 132, 136, 138, 139

Indonesia 190, 240, 270, 271, 276, 277-8

Laos 355, 369, 375Malaysia 419, 422, 431

women travellers 938, see also individual countries

women’s health 952Wonosobo 171-2work 938, see

also individual countries

World Heritage sitesAngkor, temples of 11,

94-5, 101-6, 90-1, 10-11, 94-5

Ayuthaya 671-6, 672Bagan 12, 521-30, 522,

525, 12, 37Borobudur 181-2Cat Tien National Park

877Gunung Mulu National

Park 466-7 Halong Bay 12, 831-2, 13

972

IND

EX W–

Z

World Heritage sites continued

Hoi An Old Town 863-904Hue 849-58, 850-1, ,

854-5Ifugao rice terraces 18,

565-6, 18Imperial Citadel of Thang

Long 823Kamphaeng Phet

Historical Park 684Khao Yai National Park

719-20Komodo National Park

14, 239-41, 14

Luang Prabang 13, 333-41, 334, 13

Mt Kinabalu 440-1My Son 869Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 846-9Prasat Preah Vihear 112Sukhothai Historical

Park 680, 680Vigan 567

Yyam 662Yangon 482-94, 482, 484-

5, 488-9, 490-1

accommodation 483-6

drinking & nightlife 488-91

food 486-7information 491-2shopping 491sights 482-3travel to/from 492-3travel within 493-4

yoga 51Indonesia 201, 209,

232, 235Laos 321-2, 336

Yogyakarta 173-9, 174, 177

Zziplining 50

Cambodia 93, 122, 137

Laos 50, 329, 332, 355, 50

Vietnam 846, 857zoos

Night Safari 624River Safari 624Singapore Zoo 623


973N

OTES

974

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book


Map Legend

David EimerMyanmar David first travelled to Myanmar back in the days of the military junta. Since then he’s made repeated visits that have taken him throughout the country. When not travelling, David lives in Bangkok and works as a journalist for several newspapers and magazines. Originally from London, he was previously based in Beijing and LA. He has contributed to over a dozen Lonely Planet books.

Sarah ReidTimor-Leste Lonely Planet Destination Editor and travel writer Sarah Reid added Timor-Leste to her travel wish list after interviewing the cast of Balibo in her past life as an entertainment journalist in Sydney. Getting the chance to visit this poor but wonderful country for the first time six years later (on the 40th anniversary of the events that inspired the film) to research this guide was a great privilege. Originally hailing from Byron Bay, Australia, Sarah has lived on three continents,

and visited more than 80 countries in between.

Simon RichmondPeninsular Malaysia Simon first travelled in the region back in the early 1990s. A lot has changed since, but Malaysia remains among Simon’s favourite des-tinations for its easily accessible mix of cultures, landscapes, adventures and, crucially, delicious food. An award-winning travel writer and photographer, Simon has helmed Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guide for five editions. He’s also the author of Lonely Planet’s Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang guide as

well as a shelf-load of other titles for this and other publishers. Read more about Simon’s travels at www.simonrichmond.com and on Twitter and Instagram @simonrichmond.

Iain StewartVietnam Iain has been visiting Vietnam since 1991 and has explored virtually every province in the country in search of the perfect bia hoi and ca phe sua. On this trip he travelled the coastal road between Vung Tau and Hoi An taking in some stunning coastal scenery and numerous memorable meals.

Ryan Ver BerkmoesIndonesia Ryan first visited Indonesia in 1993. On his visits since he has criss-crossed the archipelago, trying to make a dent in those 17,000 islands. Recent thrills included the ancient villages of West Timor and finding his new favourite beach on Flores (it’s near Paga). Off-island, Ryan travels the world writing and calls New York City home. Read more at ryanverberkmoes.com and at @ryanvb.

Richard WatersLaos Richard’s first night in Laos was back in ’99 when he broke down in a speedboat on the Mekong and, while marooned on the riverbank, twilight sent a body floating past. Since then it got a lot better (that very night he eventually saw Luang Prabang for the first time). As a Lonely Planet author he’s also written about Malawi, Transylvania, Greece and Borneo; while as a journalist he regularly works for the Daily Telegraph, the Sunday Times and the Independent, and has won the odd international writing award. He lives with his wife and kids in the

Cotswolds. He also writes a wellbeing blog called Soul Tonic.

China WilliamsThailand China first travelled to Thailand in 1997 to teach English in the rural northeast. Since then she has filled two passport books and has inaugurated both of her children’s passports with Thai entry and exit stamps. Before children she wandered all over the US but is now firmly planted in the suburbs of Balti-more, MD, USA.


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415318th edition – October 2016ISBN 978 1 78657 119 9© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSNick RayCoordinating author, Cambodia A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife, Kulikar, and children, Julian and Belle. He has written for numerous guide-books covering Southeast Asia, including Lonely Planet’s Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam as well as Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos & Northern Thailand. When not writing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of the Me-

kong region as a location scout and manager for the world of television and film, including projects from Tomb Raider to Top Gear Vietnam. Motorbikes are a part-time passion (riding them a pas-sion, maintaining them part-time) and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels.

Isabel AlbistonBrunei, Malaysian Borneo Since her first trip to Malaysia six years ago, Isabel has grown to love clambering up slippery trails on sweaty jungle hikes. After three months exploring Borneo’s forests and longhouses, feasting on Sarawak laksa, downing shots of tuak, dancing at the Rainforest World Music Festival and dropping in on the sultan at his palace in Brunei, the temptation to stay nearly won out. Isabel is a journalist who has written for a number of newspapers and

magazines including the UK’s Daily Telegraph.

Greg BloomPhilippines Greg has lived in Southeast Asia for more than a decade, dividing his time between Cambodia and his current home of Manila. This is his fifth straight stint on Lonely Planet’s Southeast Asia. His latest assignment brought plenty of highs (ginebra-fueled begnas in Ifugao and Sagada) as well as the occasional low (losing a money-filled wallet mid-typhoon Ineng in Bontoc). When not writing about Southeast Asia, Greg might be found snouting around Russia or patrolling

Asia’s ultimate frisbee fields.

Ria de JongSingapore Ria started life in Asia, born in Sri Lanka to Dutch/Australian parents; she has always relished the hustle and excitement of this continent of contrasts. After growing up in Townsville, Australia, Ria moved to Sydney to work as a features writer before packing her bags for a five-year stint in the Philippines. Having moved to Singapore in 2015 with her husband and two small children, Ria is loving discovering every nook and cranny of this tiny city-country-nation. This

is Ria’s first Lonely Planet title.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS


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