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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 179179

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anec-dotes: Barney Smith, Johann Schelesnak, Juan Miguel Mariatti, Kevin Callaghan

AUTHOR THANKSTom MastersA huge thanks first of all to Moritz Estermann, who was my companion for much of my trip, and who provided excellent guidance on fine food and wine, was an expert with pillow menus and remained positive through some of the worst weather I’ve ever seen in Maldives. Thanks also to Paul Roberts, Shauna Aminath, Aaron Sein, Allo Saeed, Zuhair Mohammed, Ahmed Naseer and Ali Rilwan. I owe a huge debt of thanks also to all the resort managers, press officers and guesthouse owners who made great efforts to help me reach their properties, often going way beyond the call of duty; they are sadly way too numerous to name in person, but they know who they are.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Hammock on tropical beach, Maldives; Sakis Papadopoulos, Corbis

Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes

THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Maldives guidebook was researched and written by Tom Masters, who also wrote the previous two editions. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Joe BindlossCoordinating Editor Samantha ForgeProduct Editors Penny Cord-ner, Bruce EvansSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Katherine Marsh

Assisting Editors Melanie Dankel, Jeanette WallCartographer Gabe LindquistCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Kate Chapman, Chris Love, Anne Mason, Claire Naylor, Kirsten Rawlings

181©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAarah 63accommodation 162-3, see

also individual locationscosts 163guesthouses 11, 20, 162-3hotels 163resorts 18-26, 162

Addu Atoll 116-20, 118air travel 10, 39, 170,

171-2, 10airlines 170, 171Al Barbari, Abu Al Barakat

Yusuf 125alcohol 40, 158Alifushi 97anemonefish 47, 142, 46anemones 174angelfish 143animals 140-6, 150-2Aquarium 66architecture 156Ari Atoll 42, 82-90, 84, 29

accommodation 82, 85-90

activities 83-5dive sites 82diving 83-5travel seasons 82travel to/from 90travel within 90

arts 153-5ATMs 165atoll formation 145atoll names 166

BBaa Atoll 98-102, 100Baa Atoll Unesco Biosphere

Reserve 99Badeeu, Eagan

Mohamed 154

Banana Reef 66Bandos 86beaches 26bis hulavuu 157Blue Canyon 65boat travel 39, 171, 172bodu beru 10, 153, 10 Bodu Hithi Thila 65books 122, 125, 126, 128.

153-5history 124

boxfish 143bridges 114British Loyalty wreck 75Broken Rock 85Buddhism 70, 124Burunee 111business hours 163butterflyfish 47, 143, 32, 47

Ccar travel 172cell phones 14Chickens 35children, travel with 16-17,

26, 159, 163, 175climate 163climate change 147-9, 171clownfish,

see anemonefishcoconut oil 156coffee 158Cola’s 35Colosseum 65consulates 164coral 140-1, 145costs 163crafts 155-6credit cards 166culture 122-3, 133-9

Ddecompression

sickness 174dengue fever 173

designer resorts 17Devana Kandu 105Dhaalu Atoll 107-11, 108Dhevvadhoo 114Dhidhdhoo 92Dhidhdhoo Beyru 83Dhigali Haa 99Dhiffushi 65Dhivehi language 176-7Dhivehi script 176Dhiyamigili 111dhoni travel 172dhonis 134, 155, 31diarrhoea 175disabilities, travellers

with 168dive sites 28

Aquarium 66Ari Atoll 82Banana Reef 66Blue Canyon 65Bodu Hithi Thila 65British Loyalty wreck 118Broken Rock 85Colosseum 65Devana Kandu 105Dhidhdhoo Beyru 83Dhigali Haa 99Embudhoo Express 76Erlangen wreck 75Fesdu wreck 83Filitheyo Reef 107Fish Head 83Fotteyo 105Fushi Kandu 109Fushifaru Thila 103Giant Clam 106Guraidhoo Kandu 76Halaveli Wreck 83Hammerhead Point 83Hanifaru Huraa 98Helengeli Thila 65HP Reef 66Kakani Thila 99Kani Corner 66

Kuda Giri 76Kuda Kandu 119Kudarah Thila 85Kuredhoo Express 102Lady Christine wreck 75Maa Kandu 119Maaya Thila 83Macro Spot 109-10Madi Finolhu 99Manta Point 65Manta Reef 83Milaidhoo Reef 98Muthafushi Thila 99Nassimo Thila 66Northern Atolls 91Okobe Thila 66Orimas Thila 83Panetone 85Rakeedhoo Kandu 105Rasfari 65Shark Point

(Addu Atoll) 119Shark Point

(North Male Atoll) 65Shark’s Tongue 106Shipyard 102-3SS Seagull wreck 75Two Brothers 107Vaadhoo Caves 76Vaagali Caves 76Vattaru Kandu 105Velassaru Caves 76

diving 11, 16, 19, 22, 28-34Ari Atoll 83-5certification 29costs 33courses 28-9environmental issues

33-4equipment 31-3North Male Atoll 65-6Northern Atolls 98-9,

102-3planning 28recompression

chambers 86

182

IND

EX D-M

safaris 29-31safety 173-4seasons 29South Male Atoll 76Southern Atolls 105, 106,

107, 109-10, 118-19dolphins 142drinks 158drumming,

see bodu beru

Eeconomy 136-7ecotourism 20Edu Faru National Marine

Park 95 electricity 164elevation 149Embudhoo Express 76environmental issues 66,

147-52climate change 147-9, 171commercial fishing 149erosion 148tourism 149-50

Eriyadu Island 67, 24erosion 148etiquette 39, 40, 122,

134, 159exchange rates 15Eydhafushi 98

FFaafu Atoll 107, 108family travel 16-17, 26, 159,

163, 175ferry travel 39, 172Fesdu wreck 83Feydhoo 117Filitheyo Island Resort

107, 3Filitheyo Reef 107films 122Fish Head 83fish, see individual speciesfishing, commercial 149flutemouths 143flying gurnards 143Fonadhoo 111food 17, 24-6, 157-8Fotteyo 105fruit bats 150Funadhoo 62, 95

Fushi Kandu 109Fushifaru Thila 103Fuvahmulah 38

GGaafaru Falhu 75Gaafu Alifu 114-15, 112Gaafu Dhaalu 115-16Gadhdhoo 115Gan 38, 111, 114, 116, 117Gasfinolhu 66gay travellers 164Gayoom, Maumoon

Abdul 128, 135geology 145, 148, 149Giant Clam 106global warming 147-9Gnaviyani Atoll 116, 112Grand Friday Mosque &

Islamic Centre 48green sea turtles 59groupers 143guesthouses 11, 20, 162-3Gulhi 76Guraidhoo (South Male

Atoll) 75-6,Guraidhoo (Thaa Atoll) 111Guraidhoo Kandu 76Guru’s 37

HHaa Alifu 92-3Haa Dhaalu 38, 93-5Halaveli Wreck 83Hammerhead Point 83hammerhead sharks 9,

141, 9Hanifaru Huraa 98Hanifaru Unesco Biosphere

Reserve 99Hanimaadhoo 93Hassan, Mohammed

Waheed 131hawitta 116health 173-5heat exhaustion 175heatstroke 175hedhikaa 157Helengeli Thila 65Heyerdahl, Thor 116,

125, 129Himmafushi 65history 124-32

books 124British influence 127Dutch influence 126independence 127

Portuguese influence 125websites 132

Hithadhoo 117Hoarafushi 92Holhudhoo 95Honky’s 35hotels 163house names 57HP Reef 66Hudhuran Fushi 37, 27Hulhudheli 109Hulhule 62Hulhumale 61Hulhumeedhoo 118Huraa 65Huvadhoo Atoll 114

IIbn Battuta 126idolatry 137immigration 170insurance 164, 173, 174internet resources,

see websitesIsdhoo 113Islam 124-5, 133

Jjacks 144Jailbreaks 37jewellery 156Jumeirah Vittaveli Resort

79-80, 21

KKaadedhoo 115Kaashidhoo 75Kadhoo 111Kakani Thila 99Kandhuvalu Mosque 92 Kanditheemu 95Kani Corner 66Kate’s 37kavaabu 157Kelaa 92Kibidhoo 111Kondey 114Kuda Bandos 63Kuda Giri 76Kuda Kandu 119Kudahuvadhoo 107Kudarah Thila 85Kudhoo 114Kulhuduffushi 93Kumundhoo 93Kuramathi 86

Kuredhoo Express 102Kurumba Island 67, 34

LLaamu Atoll 111-14,

112, 17lacquer work 155-6Landhoo 95language 14, 176Last Stops 37legal matters 165lesbian travellers 164Lhaviyani Atoll 102-3,

100lionfish 144, 47Lion’s Head 50literature 153-5, see

also booksLohi’s 37luxury resorts 16

MMaa Kandu 119Maafushi 13, 38, 75, 80,

2, 13Maamigili 83Maaya Thila 83Macro Spot 109-10Madi Finolhu 99Mahibadhoo 83Maldives basics 14-15Male 9, 41, 44, 45-61, 49,

52, 54, 62, 8accommodation 44, 51-3activities 50-1climate 44entertainment 56food 44, 53-6for children 51highlights 48information 56-60safety 45shopping 56sights 45-50travel seasons 44travel to/from 60travel within 60-1walking tour 52

Manadhoo 95Manta Point 65manta rays 141-2, 32, 58Manta Reef 83maps 165Maradhoo 117marine life 9, 13, 46-7, 58-9,

87, 140-6, 152, 175, 9, 12, 32, 46-7, 58-9

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

183IN

DEX M

-V mas huni 157media 136medical services 173Meemu Atoll 105-7, 30Milaidhoo Reef 98Milandhoo 95mobile phones 14money 14, 165-7

ATMs 165costs 15exchange rates 15

Moorish idols 144moray eels 59,

144, 59mosques

Grand Friday Mosque & Islamic Centre 48

Kandhuvalu Mosque 92Old Friday Mosque 45

Muleeaage & Medhu Ziyaarath 49-50

music 153Muthafushi Thila 99

NNaifaru 102Narudhoo 95Nasheed, Mohammed 122,

129-31, 130Nassimo Thila 66National Art Gallery 49national marine parks 95,

see also Protected Marine Areas

National Museum 48Natives 37newspapers 136Nilandhoo 107Noonu Atoll 95-7North Male Atoll 41, 64,

64-75, 68accommodation 64,

66-75diving 65-6surfing 35travel seasons 64

Northern Atolls 42, 91-103, 94

accommodation 91diving 91, 98-9, 102-3travel seasons 91

OOkobe Thila 66Old Friday Mosque 45opening hours 163Orimas Thila 83

Ppainting 155Panetone 85parrotfish 47, 144, 47passports 170Pasta Point 37pennant butterflyfish 47,

32, 47Piddies 37pilot fish 146pipefish 144planning, see also

individual regionsbudgeting 15diving 28independent travel

38-40Maldives’ regions 41resorts 18-26snorkelling 34surfing 35-7travel seasons 14, 23

politics 135-6population 123postal services 167Protected Marine Areas

152Banana Reef 66Embudhoo Kandu 76Fish Head 83Guraidhoo Kandu 76HP Reef 66Kudarah Thila 85Lion’s Head 50Maaya Thila 83Orimas Thila 83Rasfari 65

public holidays 167pufferfish 144Pyrard, François 102

QQuarters 37

RRaa Atoll 97-8, 100radio 136Rakeedhoo Kandu 105Rasfari 65Rasgetheemu 97recompression

chambers 86red lionfish 47, 47reefs 33religion 70, 123, 124-5,

137-9resorts 18-26, 162, see also

Resorts subindex 184

responsible travel 150Ribudhoo 109rock cod 145romantic getaways 16, 19

Ssafari boats 163safety

diving 173-4Male 45snorkelling 35

sea snakes 143sea urchins 146, 174-5seaplane travel 10, 171-2,

10Shark Point (North Male

Atoll) 65Shark Point (Addu Atoll)

119sharks 141, 58Shark’s Tongue 106Shaviyani 95shipwrecks 102

British Loyalty 118Erlangen 75Fesdu Wreck 83Halaveli Wreck 83Lady Christine 75Maldive Victory 50SS Seagull 75

Shipyard 102-3snapper 146snorkelling 16, 22, 34-5

safety 35Soneva Fushi 5South Male Atoll 41, 75-81,

78, 2accommodation 64,

76-81activities 76diving 76surfing 37transport to/from 81travel seasons 64

Southern Atolls 42, 104-20, 106

accommodation 104diving 105, 106, 107, 109-

10, 118-19travel seasons 104

spas 22, 17speedboat travel 172sport 139stingrays 141-2, 175stonefish 175submarine walks 51Sultan’s 37surfing 16, 22, 35-7, 76, 36

surgeonfish 146sweetlips 146

Tteashops 53telephone services 14, 15,

167-8tetrapods 50Thaa Atoll 111, 112Thakurufaanu, Mohammed

96, 128Thilafushi 63Thimarafushi 111Thulhaadhoo 98Thulusdhoo 38, 65time 168tipping 166-7toilets 168Tomb of Mohammed

Thakurufaanu 50tourism 38-9, 123, 149-50tourist information 168travel seasons 14, 23, see

also individual regionstravel to/from the Maldives

15, 170-1travel within the Maldives

15, 171-2trevallies 144triggerfish 146turtles 142, 152, 59TV 136Two Brothers 107

UUgoofaaru 97Uligamu 92Unesco sites 99unicornfish 146Utheemu 92

VVaadhoo 115Vaadhoo Caves 76Vaagali Caves 76Vaavu Atoll 105, 108vaccinations 173Vaikaradhoo 93Vattaru Kandu 105vegan travellers 159vegetarian travellers 159Velassaru Caves 76Velidhoo 95Veymandhoo 111Viligili 62, 114visas 14, 168volunteering 168-9

184

IND

EX RE

SO

RT

S

Wwater, drinking 174water, fresh 151water sports 22-4, 27-37,

see also diving, snorkel-ling, surfing

websites 15, 136history 132

whale sharks 13, 87, 140, 12whales 142women in Maldives 138women travellers 169woodcarving 155work 169wrasse 146

YYameen, Abdulla 122, 132

RESORTSAdaaran Select

Meedhupparu 98Anantara Dhigu & Anantara

Veli 77-9Anantara Kihavah Villas

100-1Angsana Ihuru 70-1Angsana Velavaru 110

Asdu Sun Island 66-7Ayada Maldives 115-16Bandos Island Resort 71Banyan Tree

Vabbinfaru 74Baros 74best picks 18Biyadhoo 77Centara Grand Island

Resort & Spa Maldives 89

Chaaya Island Dhonveli 71Chaaya Lagoon Hakuraa

Huraa 106-7Chaaya Reef Ellaidhoo 85Cheval Blanc Randheli 96-7Coco Bodu Hithi 73-4Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu 99Cocoa Island by COMO 80Conrad Maldives Rangali

Island 89Constance Halaveli

Maldives 88Dusit Thani Maldives 102Embudu Village 76-7Equator Village 119Eriyadu Island Resort 67Filitheyo Island Resort

107, 3

Four Seasons Kuda Huraa 73

Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru 99-100

Gili Lankanfushi 72-3Hideaway Beach Resort &

Spa 92Huvafen Fushi 73JA Manafaru 93Jumeirah Dhevanafushi

114-15Jumeirah Vittaveli 79-

80, 21Kanuhura 103Komandoo Island Resort

103Kuramathi Island Resort 86Kuredu Island Resort &

Spa 103Kurumba Maldives 67, 34Lily Beach Resort 89-90Loama Resort Maldives at

Maamigili 98LUX Maldives 86-7Maalifushi by COMO 111Madoogali 87Makunudu Island 69-70Meeru Island Resort 70Mirihi 88-9Naladhu Maldives 80

Nika Island 88NIYAMA Maldives 110-11Olhuveli Beach & Spa 79One & Only Reethi Rah 72Paradise Island Resort &

Spa 71-2Reethi Beach Resort 99Rihiveli Beach Resort 77Shangri-La Villingili Resort

& Spa 119-20Sheraton Maldives Full

Moon Resort & Spa 67-9

Six Senses Laamu 113-14Soneva Fushi 101-2Sun Siam Iru Fushi

Maldives 96Taj Exotica 81Thulhagiri 71Velaa Private Island 97Veligandu Island Resort &

Spa 86Viceroy Maldives 95Vilamendhoo 86Vilu Reef 110Vivanta by Taj Coral

Reef 69W Retreat & Spa 87-8

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

185N

OTES

186

NO

TES

187N

OTES

188

NO

TES

189N

OTES

190

NO

TES

191

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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