belay device handbook - edelrid
TRANSCRIPT
BELAY DEVICE HANDBOOK
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Climbing can be a fun and safe experience – but only if you use the right belay device. Nowadays there is a wide variety of different devices on the market. They all have their particular advantages and disadvantages. We’ve written this EDELRID handbook to share our expertise and provide important information about how to use the different types of devices available. We look at all the main belay techniques and give valuable tips for using and looking after belay devices. At EDELRID, we’re constantly working to further optimise climbing safety and develop new and innovative belay devices. As such, this handbook also provides an insight into our development process and our quality assurance.
Made by climbers for climbers. The EDELRID team is made up of passionate climbers and alpinists. In addition, we work closely with professional climbers and mountain guides. We understand the demands that climbers place on their equipment. CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY is our credo – we apply it to our belay devices to make versatile products that meet and exceed the highest quality standards. We have over 150 years of experience in mountain sports. This combination of experience and passion constantly drives us to explore new paths and only accept maximum performance. Furthermore, as a mountain sports company, we naturally make environmental protection, sustainability and quality management our highest priorities.
EDELRID
88316 Isny im Allgäu
Germany
Tel. +49 (0) 7562 981 - 0
Fax +49 (0) 7562 981 - 100
www.edelrid.de
I A history of belay devices
I Modern belay devices
I Manual belay devices
I Semi-automatic belay devices
I HMS - No belay device required
I OHM - Assisted-braking resistor
I Which belay device do I need?
I Better belaying
I The birth of a new belay device
I Norms and standards
I Index
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6
8
14
16
18
22
24
30
32
36
CONTENT
Text:Jan Hoffmann, Sebastian Straub, James Heath
Proofreading:James Heath, Tim Carruthers, Sally Maßmann
ABOUT THIS PUBLICATION
Typesetting:Miriam Heberle, Jan Hoffmann
Photography:Christian Pfanzelt photography,
Jan Hoffmann
Climbing has a long tradition. Since time immemorial, adventurous men and women been fascinated by mountains and sum-
mits all over the world. However, their equipment often left a lot to be desired. Thankfully, today there is a wide variety of
technical belay and abseil devices. But how did they come into existence? We’d like to briefly outline the development of belay
devices and their function.
A HISTORY OF BELAY DEVICES
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Early ascents involved scaling steep cliffs with just a rope for protection. No
other equipment was used. Around 100 years ago, Hans Dülfer, a German
mountaineer, invented the Dülfersitz (literally ‘Dülfer seat’), which allowed the
climber to abseil (aka rappel) from exposed sections and belay a partner. Eng-
lish-speaking climbers refer to this as a classic abseil. To abseil using the Dül-
fersitz, the doubled rope is passed through the legs and wrapped around the
body. This produces friction between the rope and your body, braking the rope.
Please note: heat is generated, which may result in a friction burn. It’s recom-
mended that you wear robust, sturdy clothing, for example a good old pair of
Lederhosen, should you happen to own a pair. On longer or faster abseils,
enough friction is produced to burn through normal clothing. Nevertheless, the
classic Dülfersitz was the standard means of abseiling, until climbers started
using carabiners.
So, we’ve learnt that wrapping the rope around something increases friction
and braking when abseiling and belaying and also allows the climber to vary the
amount of friction used. Therefore both belaying and abseiling could be carried
out in a more controlled manner. Friction can also be generated by wrapping a
rope around a carabiner. This is significantly easier to handle than wrapping the
rope around your body, as required in the Dülfersitz technique. To create more
friction, it’s possible to join a number of carabiners together in a chain and wind
the rope through them.
Earlier climbers attempted to refine this technique by running the rope through
two carabiners. The resultant lever action produced by using two carabiners
significantly increases friction. Alternatively, one or more carabiners could be
placed crosswise across a main carabiner and the rope was then fed through,
as shown in the diagram. This is known as the carabiner brake method. This
technique provided the inspiration for the first dedicated abseil and braking
devices.
The first braking devices were carabiners with an integrated braking crosspiece
in the middle. The doubled rope was run through the carabiner over the braking
element. These braking devices offered poor handling. As a result, this techni-
que was generally only used to lower heavy loads or climbers as part of a moun-
tain rescue operation.
For an Italian hitch all you need is a certified, pear-shaped HMS (German:
HMS – Halbmastwurfsicherung) locking carabiner. The hitch works by crea-
ting friction from several bends in the rope. It’s a very useful technique and is
still used to this day – more on the Italian hitch later.
In 1967, Fritz Sticht invented the first mechanical rope brake that is widely
regarded as the direct predecessor of today’s tubular belay devices. It con-
sists of a flat steel or aluminium disc with two parallel slots. Depending on
whether you were using single rope, half ropes or twin ropes, one or two
bights of rope were passed through the slots and then clipped to the harness
with a carabiner. You still occasionally see the Sticht plate in use today. Its
main drawback compared to modern tubular belay devices is its jerky action
when lowering.
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Better handling performance was required to allow normal climbers to belay and lower. Two solutions were introduced at the
end of the 1960s: the Italian hitch (also known as the Munter hitch, after the Swiss climber Werner Munter) and the Sticht
plate.
Photo: www.storrick.cnc.net
Nowadays, anyone wanting to buy a new device will be overwhelmed by the different options available in their
local climbing shop. What’s the difference between them? Allow us to shed some light on the matter.
Modern belay devices are divided into two categories: manual braking devices (EN 15151-2) and braking
devices with manually assisted locking (EN 15151-1) – according to the rather complicated wording of European
standards. So what does it all mean?
Manual belay devicesThis first group covers tubular devices (“tubers”)
and figure-of-eight devices in all their many shapes
and sizes. These dynamic devices will hold a fall, but
only if the belayer acts appropriately. All these
devices do is increase the braking force/hand bra-
king force. If the belayer lets go of the dead rope
(the braking side) then the lead climber’s fall will not
be arrested. The European standard (EN) 15151-2
has existed since 2012. It defines the test values,
safety requirements and test methods for these
manual braking devices. However, manufacturers
are entitled to decide whether to test their products
according to this standard or another one. All our
manual belay devices are tested according to this
standard and meet the corresponding requirements.
Auto-locking tubular devices (manual devices with
assisted braking), the latest development of tubular
belay devices also mostly fall into this category.
They have a significantly greater safety reserves
than standard tube devices, but are not classed as
“braking devices with manually assisted locking”
(EN 15151-1).
MODERN BELAY DEVICES
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Belay devices with manually assisted lockingThe second group covers ‘semi-automatic’ or ‘auto-
locking’ belay devices, such as the EDELRID Eddy.
These devices contain an assisted braking mecha-
nism that ‘automatically’ stops the rope moving, eit-
her when the rope receives a sudden, sharp tug or
when manually activated, when it blocks completely
and arrests the fall. The braking action is indepen-
dent from the belayer’s hand braking force.
However, similar to a seat belt in a car, these devices
will not block a rope if it is pulled through slowly. For
this reason, one hand should always be kept firmly
on the braking side of the rope.
HMS-BelayAs we mentioned earlier in the history section, you
can also belay without a belay device by using an
Italian hitch.
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All belay devices have one thing in common. The increased braking force of the device makes it possible to hold
a fall. However there are major differences in how to use them, their mechanical action and how dynamically
they brake a fall. Let‘s take a closer look at all the different types of belay devices.
Tubular belay devices Tubular belay devices are by far the most widely
used type of belay device. All EDELRID tube belay
devices comply with the safety requirements of the
European standard 15151-2. They are in essence a
modern version of the original Sticht plate. This is
why many climbers still refer to them as a ‘belay
plate’. They create braking force through a double
bend in the rope. The rope is bent around the HMS
carabiner and around the device itself. The resulting
friction increases the braking force sufficiently to be
able to hold a fall by hand. However, a tube belay
device’s increased braking force only functions if
the dead rope is held down by the brake hand below
the device to produce a further bend. Incorrect use
can be very dangerous and have drastic conse-
quences. If the braking hand lets go of the rope, or if
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MANUAL BELAY DEVICES
the braking rope is held above the belay device, in
the event of a fall the belayer will have virtually no
chance of holding the rope and will no longer be able
to prevent a ground fall...
The main advantage of tubular belay devices is their
dynamic braking action. They allow a small amount
of rope to pass through the device before a fall is
completely arrested. So with a little practise, tubular
belay devices allow you to belay very dynamically.
This softens the climber’s fall. In addition, tubular
belay devices allow you to pay out and take in rope
quickly and easily.
The rope is placed in the belay device as follows and
secured with a locking carabiner.
Tubular belay devices come in many different shapes and sizes. Single tubular belay devices are designed for
sport climbing with a single rope. They have a straightforward design with just one slot for the rope and no
release hole for belaying directly from an anchor. Double tubular belay devices have two slots so that you can
use double ropes. However, only double tubular devices with a release hole for a direct anchor allow the full
range of belay operations: belaying a leader or second, bringing up two climbers simultaneously (by body belay
or anchor belay), lowering and abseiling with single or double ropes.
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ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Universal application (depending on model) – bela-
ying a leader, bringing up a second, body belay
Does not block automatically (belaying error can have
fatal consequences)
LightweightCertain devices have less braking performance/
require greater braking hand force
Optimal dynamic belayingBraking performance affected by rope diameter – and
condition
Perfect for abseiling with single and double ropes
Easy to use
Does not damage rope
Minimal kinks in rope
Tubular belay devices with assisted braking Extra safety. They might look rather different, but
‘auto-locking’ (or ‘auto-blocking’) tubular belay
devices function in exactly the same way as normal
tubular belay devices.
In the event of a fall, these belay devices produce so
much friction that they prevent the rope from run-
ning through the device. Therefore holding a fall is
less dependant on hand braking force. This means
that tubular belay devices with assisted braking
offer much higher safety reserves than standard
tubular belay devices. However, you should always
follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding
which type of carabiner to use and the recommen-
ded rope diameter. Tubular belay devices with assi-
sted braking only guarantee their extremely high
braking force if recommended rope diameters are
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MANUAL BELAY DEVICES
used. As a general rule, the thicker the diameter, the
greater the friction produced and the more the
device blocks the rope. When using an auto-locking
tubular belay device with assisted braking, the brake
hand principle should always be adhered to. In addi-
tion, one should note that the very high braking
force of these types of tubular devices means that
dynamic belaying is only possible through body
dynamics, i.e. by moving. We’ll explain more about
how to give a dynamic belay later on in the Tips and
Tricks chapter. Our tubular belay devices with assi-
sted braking are also tested to the EU standard
15151-2, i.e. as “manual braking devices”. However,
the standard is not mandatory and is applied diffe-
rently by each manufacturer.
Jul2Megal Jul
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ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Very high safety reserves due to higher braking per-
formance
Dynamic belaying only possible via body dynamics
Allows quick paying out Handling requires practice
Less hand braking force required
Suitable for use with half ropes and twin ropes
(depending on model)
Intuitive to use
Minimal kinks in rope
We recommend fixing the figure of eight in the cor-
rect position on the HMS carabiner. Why is this? If
the figure of eight can move about then this can
often result in cross loading the carabiner. If this
happens, the carabiner has less than half the bra-
king strength that it would have if it was aligned for
lengthways loading. In certain circumstances, this
can have very serious implications. If the figure of
eight lies over the carabiner’s locking mechanism
and a climber falls, then the high leverage and loa-
ding produced by the figure of eight can break the
gate of the carabiner. This could result in a ground
fall. We therefore recommend using a rubber retai-
ner, to fix the figure of eight in place in the correct
position – on the top bar of the HMS carabiner.
Figure of eight Figure of eights are intended primarily for abseiling
and should be used with caution. The figure of eight
is actually under threat of extinction. It only offers
relatively low braking performance and is pretty
heavy compared to other belay devices. In particular,
when using new or thinner ropes, the figure of
eight’s reduced friction does not offer the same
increased braking force as other belay devices.
Nevertheless, it’s still used by some climbers for
belaying and abseiling. Users say they like its poten-
tial for very dynamic belaying. The rope is placed in
the figure of eight as shown below. It can be used
with a single or double rope. First a bight of rope is
fed through the large hole to the braking hand. Then
this then looped around the outside of the small hole
and then clipped to the harness using a locking cara-
biner.
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MANUAL BELAY DEVICES
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ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Easy lowering Does not block automatically (belaying error can
have fatal consequences)
Dynamic belaying possible Certain devices have less braking performance/
require greater braking hand
Suitable for use with half ropes and twin ropes
(depending on model)
Braking performance affected by rope diameter –
and condition
Can change position on HMS carabiner and
damage it
‘Semi-automatic’ belay devices ‘Semi-automatic’ Belay devices certified to EN 15151-1 have an assisted braking (or assisted locking) mecha-
nism that functions rather like a car seat belt. If the rope is pulled through slowly, it won’t block. If the device
comes under a sudden load (e.g. a fall) a special mechanism is activated that blocks the rope completely. This
mechanism is triggered by the increased friction when the rope runs through quickly. However, if there is no
sudden loading or the device is used incorrectly, then it will not brake the rope. Therefore, when using an
assisted-braking belay device, always keep your braking hand on the free end of the rope! If you only hold the
rope leading to the climber, then there will be no sharp tug and the belay device’s assisted-braking action is
bypassed. When used correctly, the braking performance of belay devices with manually assisted locking does
not depend on the belayer’s hand braking force. However, because these devices block the rope completely,
the possibilities for dynamic belaying are limited.
My climbing partner has fallen and now my belay device is completely locked. How do I lower them to the
ground? Most assisted-braking belay devices have a lever for lowering or abseiling. The lever unlocks the
device. The EDELRID Eddy has its own integrated panic locking element. Everyone has a panic and grasp reflex
which can be triggered by panic or fear. This means that if the belayer panics, with some belay devices of this
type, they may pull the lowering lever back towards them and a falling climber may then fall all the way to the
ground. This is sometimes referred to as the ‘panic-pull syndrome’. The panic locking element prevents this. If
the Eddy’s lever is pulled all the way back, then it blocks the rope completely in the device and arrests the fall.
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STOP
STOP
SEMI-AUTOMATIC BELAY DEVICES
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Unfortunately, ‘semi-automatic’ assisted-braking belay devices can only accommodate a single rope.
ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Very high safety reserves thanks to assisted
locking function
Dynamic belaying only possible via body dynamics
Blocks rope completely Comparatively large in size
Can only be used with single ropes
Paying out rope requires practice
Difficulties in paying out rope may lead to manipu-
lation of the blocking mechanism
SEMI-AUTOMATIC BELAY DEVICES
Italian hitchCan you really belay safely with just a locking HMS carabiner and a rope? Yes you can. An Italian hitch tied to
a carabiner also provides dynamic increased braking force. The Italian hitch is still used widely today. It’s a
handy technique that every climber should be familiar with, regardless of which belay device they use.
It might look complicated, but it’s easy to learn. This is how to tie an Italian hitch:
It’s also easy to tell if you’ve tied it properly. When tied correctly, the knot flips from one side of the carabiner
to the other when you pull the ends of the rope. This means that when you change from paying out rope to
taking in rope, the knot jumps into the corresponding position. When belaying with an Italian hitch, it’s impor-
tant to select your HMS carabiner carefully. A slipped Italian hitch can potentially open certain locking carabi-
ners. We therefore recommend not using using simple screwgate, twistlock and slide gate carabiners. In
addition, the braking rope should be on the opposite side to the carabiner gate.
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HMS NO BELAY DEVICE REQUIRED
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Unlike most other belay techniques, rope diameter makes no difference to the increased braking force when
belaying with an Italian hitch on an HMS carabiner. However, using an Italian hitch puts twists and kinks in the
rope. Some climbing centres even ban its use completely with their ropes.
ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Universal application – belaying a leader, bringing
up a second, body belay
Does not brake automatically (belaying error can
have fatal consequences)
Universal application – belaying a leader, bringing
up a second, body belay
Greater rope wear due to rope-on-rope friction
when lowering
Greater braking performance than a tubular belay
device
Can produces serious kinks in rope if lowering is
not carried out properly
Braking performance not affected by rope
diameter
Danger of unintentional opening with certain
locking carabiners
Easy to see if tied correctly – knot flips from one
side of carabiner to other
Dynamic belaying possible
ASSISTED BRAKING RESISTOR TO INCREASE ROPE FRICTION
OHM
The problem: climbing partners with a signifi-cant difference in weight
A significant difference in weight between lead climber
and belayer frequently causes a problem. This applies
in particular to climbing couples, where the woman is
often significantly lighter than her partner.
In the event of a fall, a lighter belayer can be suddenly
pulled off the ground and hurled against the wall. In
addition, when a belayer is pulled high off the ground,
this significantly increases the distance that the leader
falls. If the climber is still near the ground, belayer and
climber might collide, or the climber might even hit the
ground.Moreover, if a dynamic belay device is used (for
example a tubular belay device) then a lighter belayer
has to apply significant hand braking force to arrest
the fall. In the worst-case scenario, the belayer might
not be able to hold on to the rope. Their hand may get
painfully burnt as the rope runs through the device or
they may drop their partner completely.
This is why the German and Swiss (DAV, SAC) recom-
mend that a climber should not weigh more than 1.33
times their belayer, i.e. maximum 1/3 more (for exam-
ple: belayer 60 kg, climber maximum weight 80 kg). In
the event of a big fall, in particular at the climbing wall,
such large differences in weight require extreme care
and attention on the part of the belayer.
Using a weight bag to reduce the difference in weight
is not possible all the time (who wants to carry a weight
bag to the crag?). In addition, weight bags restrict a
belayer’s freedom of movement. And even when using
a weight bag, the belayer still has to supply full braking
force (risk of burns as rope runs through belay device).There is a short video about the OHM here:http://www.edelrid.de/en/ohm/
www.edelrid.de18
OHM: assisted-braking resistor to increase rope friction
The OHM is an OHM assisted-braking resistor to in-
crease friction. It’s attached at the first bolt in the
safety chain using a quickdraw and the rope runs
through it. In the event of a fall, the OHM increases
rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a hea-
vier partner without difficulty. This helps prevent
the belayer from being thrown forcefully against
the wall. In addition, the belayer needs to apply si-
gnificantly less hand braking force to arrest the fall.
The OHM is designed not to affect rope handling when
belaying a lead climber. It neither increases rope drag
to the lead climber, nor has a negative affect when
+0%
+10%
+20%
+30%
+40%
+50%
+60%
+70%
+80%
+90%
+100%
40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120
Weight difference belayer - lead climber
Maximum weight difference according to DAV recommendation
WEIGHT BELAYER [KG]
paying out rope. The device’s assisted braking mecha-
nism is only activated in the event of a fall. The OHM
also works independently to the belay device used.
Should a lead climber fall at the first bolt, the OHM
significantly reduces the risk of a possible ground
fall. Lowering a heavier climber is also much ea-
sier to control due to the increased friction. This
reduces the risk of accidents when lowering.
The OHM was developed together with the
Institute of Mechanical Handling and Lo-
gistics at the University of Stuttgart.
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FUNCTION AND APPLICATION
OHMOHM
Operation modeThe Ohm is an assisted-braking resistor that is at-
tached at the first bolt with a quickdraw and the
rope runs through it. In the event of a fall, the rope is
pulled into the device’s braking mechanism. This
then brakes the fall. The device does not stop the
rope abruptly; instead it progressively brakes the
speed it runs through, so that the belayer can still
dynamically arrest the fall. The Ohm in-creases the
amount of friction in the safety chain, independent
of the belay device used. As a result, the belayer
needs to apply significantly less hand braking force
to the braking rope to arrest the fall and they wont
be hurled against the wall in an uncon-trolled man-
ner.
The Ohm is designed not to affect rope handling
when belaying a lead climber. It nei-ther increases
rope drag for the lead climber, nor has a negative
affect when paying out rope. The device’s assisted
braking mechanism is only activated in the event of
a fall.
The OHM benefits both climber and belayer:
The belayer wont be pulled against the wall in an
uncontrolled manner. The climber can climb right to
their limits, without having to worry that their belayer
might not be able to hold them should they fall and
with no fear of a hard landing.
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Integrating the OHM into the safety chainThe lead climber ties in to the “sharp end” of the rope. They place the rope in the OHM (see fig.1) and then
attach it to their harness with a quickdraw. At the first bolt, they attach the quickdraw with the prepared OHM
to the bolt (see fig.2). The leader and belayer then climb as usual.
Fig. 1: Attaching the OHM to the harness Fig. 2: Clipping of the first bold
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WHICH BELAY DEVICE DO I NEED?
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Intended purpose The main thing when buying a belay device is to be clear about what you want it for. Do you only climb single-
pitch routes? Do you want to be able to belay a partner on multi-pitch routes? As we mentioned previously,
there is often more than one solution for each type of climbing.
+++ our recommendation ++ very suitable +suitable - not suitable
* = not suitable for alpine climbing as a roped party
**=Abseiling suitable only with single strand
Single rope Half rope Twin rope
MODEL SPORT CLIMBING ALPINE CLIMBING ALPINE CLIMBING ABSEILING
BELAYING A LEADER (BODY BELAY)BELAYING A LEADER
(ANCHOR BELAY)BELAYING A LEADER
(ANCHOR BELAY) BRINGIN UP A PARTNER
Single tubular belay device ++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ -
Double tubular belay device
++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ +++
Tubular belay device with release hole for direct anchor
++ ++ ++ ++ ++ +++ +++ +++ +++
Single tubular belay device with assisted braking
+++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++** -
Tubular belay device with assisted braking and release hole for direct anchor
+++ +++ +++ - - +++ +++ +++ +++
Figure of eight + -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ +++
Semi-automatic device +++ +++ - - - +++ - +++** -
Italian hitch + + + +++ +++ ++ + + +
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MODEL SPORT CLIMBING ALPINE CLIMBING ALPINE CLIMBING ABSEILING
BELAYING A LEADER (BODY BELAY)BELAYING A LEADER
(ANCHOR BELAY)BELAYING A LEADER
(ANCHOR BELAY) BRINGIN UP A PARTNER
Single tubular belay device ++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ -
Double tubular belay device
++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ +++
Tubular belay device with release hole for direct anchor
++ ++ ++ ++ ++ +++ +++ +++ +++
Single tubular belay device with assisted braking
+++ -* -* -* -* -* -* +++** -
Tubular belay device with assisted braking and release hole for direct anchor
+++ +++ +++ - - +++ +++ +++ +++
Figure of eight + -* -* -* -* -* -* +++ +++
Semi-automatic device +++ +++ - - - +++ - +++** -
Italian hitch + + + +++ +++ ++ + + +
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Want to be a better belayer? Research from Germany by the DAV (German Alpine Club) shows that incorrect
use of belay devices is responsible for more than a third of climbing accidents at climbing walls. We’ve com-
piled some of the main points that explain how to be a better belayer. We’d like to stress though that belaying
is not something that you can just learn in theory. It has to be learnt in practice. In order to become a better
belayer and master other climbing techniques, beginner’s courses, refresher courses and regular fall training
with supervision are a good idea. Climbing is no different to every other sport – practice makes perfect.
Braking hand principle Regardless of which belay device you use, your braking hand should ALWAYS be on the dead rope. The dead
rope is the loose side of the rope that does not lead to the climber. The other side of the rope (the live rope) is
the side of the rope that goes from the belay device to the climber. Your other hand should remain on the live
rope and act as a sensor. If there is a sudden load on the rope, then you’ll be alert to it and have plenty of time
to control the dead rope with your brake hand.
Braking Understanding how a belay device functions is crucial to ensure correct braking. As we mentioned earlier,
tubular belay devices only function properly when the dead rope is pulled down by the braking hand to produce
an additional bend in the rope. If the braking hand is on the rope, but the rope is held in the wrong position,
i.e. above the device, then a fall could prove fatal. So it’s essential to understand how your belay device works.
We recommend reading the user manual before you first use the device and getting some proper instruction.
BETTER BELAYING
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BETTER BELAYING
Rope type The type of rope you use will have a major impact on the
effectiveness of your belay device’s increased braking
force. Diameter, overall condition and the state of the
sheath should be taken into consideration. Each belay
device is designed to be used with ropes of a certain dia-
meter range. In some cases, using a certain belay device
with a certain diameter of rope might not be permitted and
could even be dangerous. You should always follow the
manufacturer‘s recommendations. If a rope is too thin,
your belay device might not produce sufficient braking
force to hold a fall. If a rope is too thick, then it may get
stuck in your belay device and be difficult to handle. In
addition, the condition of a rope’s sheath also plays a role.
Does it look old or show signs of abrasion or furring? If this
is the case, it will have a thicker diameter and its surface
will produce more friction. This could mean that it won’t
run through your belay device smoothly and that the belay
system is no longer safe.
Carabiner position In addition to the belay device, it’s important to use an
HMS carabiner with a suitable gate locking mechanism.
The belay device should always be clipped with the carabi-
ner to the belayer’s harness so that it’s loaded in a
lengthwise direction. A cross-loaded carabiner has less
than half the braking strength than when it’s loaded
lengthwise. To prevent the carabiner from rotating, we
recommend using an HMS carabiner with an additional
internal component to fix the carabiner in place. This then
prevents the carabiner twisting on the harness and ensu-
res that it remains loaded in the optimal lengthwise direc-
tion.
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Gloves Gloves are not just for winter. Using gloves when belaying,
significantly increases safety. They provide greater friction
and can prevent you from seriously burning your hands. If
you don’t have the hand strength to hold your partner, or
if you lower your partner too fast, then significant heat can
be produced. The reflex reaction is to drop the rope, cau-
sing the lead climber to fall the ground in an uncontrolled
manner. Wearing belay gloves can prevent this. They
should be made of robust materials and provide plenty of
friction. Thin, soft leather gloves are ideal. The right fit is
also important. If your gloves are too big, then you might
not have enough control over your belay device.
Looking after your belay deviceLook after your belay device and it will look after you. As
with all mechanical devices, belay devices should also be
kept free of dirt at all times. Only then will they function
reliably. The is especially important in climbing as it also
helps to protect the rope. In addition, belay devices made
of aluminium should be checked regularly for sharp edges.
These can form over time by rope friction from belaying
and lowering. Sharp edges can damage the rope and in
extreme cases cut through it. We recommend that you
inspect your belay device every time before you use it.
Make sure it’s not dirty and clean it if necessary. Clean it
using (clean) water or compressed air. If required, moving
parts should be oiled with acid-free oil.
Where to stand when spotting It’s worth thinking about where you stand when
you’re spotting. When belaying, it can make a big
difference to your partner’s safety. In particular,
because there is an increased risk of a ground fall
during the first metres of a route – up to around the
fifth bolt. This is why you should not stand directly
underneath your partner. But don’t stand too far
away from the wall either. This is important for two
reasons. Firstly, if you stand further away you will
have more slack rope. Should the climber fall, they
will fall further, significantly increasing the risk of a
ground fall. Secondly, you (the belayer) might also
be pulled forwards and slammed into the wall. This
could result in an accident. Most climbing walls
recommend that you stand one metre from the wall
and one metre to the side. This will hopefully prevent
you from being hit should your partner fall and keep
the amount of rope you have to pay out to a mini-
mum.
BETTER BELAYING
Spotting How do I protect my climbing partner from falling
and hitting the ground on the first few metres of a
route? You should spot your partner before they
have clipped a quickdraw in the first bolt or second
bolt – depending on how far apart they are spaced.
How? By standing behind them and holding up both
hands towards their hips. Try to make sure you keep
your thumbs turned in. If you’re unlucky and your
partner lands on your outstretched thumb, you could
get injured. Should the climber fall during the first
few metres, try to ensure that they don’t hit their
head or their back on the ground. If they do fall,
don’t try to catch them, just spot them. You can still
hold both ends of the rope in your hands while spot-
ting, using your turned in thumbs. This way you can
ensure a smooth transition from spotting to belaying.
28 www.edelrid.de
1m 1m
How to prevent a hard fallHard falls can be prevented. Using dynamic belaying
to give a soft catch can significantly reduce impact
force. Impact force is the maximum force to which
the body and equipment are subjected during a fall.
The abrupter the jerk when braking, the greater the
impact force. Drop an egg and it will break. However,
everyone knows that if you catch it softly, moving
your hands down in the direction of the fall to absorb
the energy, then it generally remains intact. To apply
this principle when belaying, it depends firstly on
how high the climber is. First priority: if your climber
is not far off the ground – prevent a ground fall.
Shorten the fall rather than add to it. If your partner
is higher up a route, then you should try to give a
softer catch. As we’ve already mentioned, different
belay devices provide different options for dynamic
29
belaying. Belay devices for dynamic belaying, such
as a tubular belay device or figure of eight allow a
small amount of rope to run through before com-
pletely blocking it. However, it’s possible to delibera-
tely belay more dynamically. The climber falls
further, but the catch is softer. Even if you are using
a very direct and hard semi-automatic belay device,
it’s still possible to give a softer catch. How? First
up, you should make sure that you are watching your
climber carefully the whole time, so that you are not
taken by surprise. If the climber falls, a small jump or
hop is enough to soften the fall. The timing is impor-
tant: you should be moving as the force is applied –
moving after the impact is felt is too late. Prepare to
be pulled up and in toward the wall and stretch your
feet out to protect yourself.
1m 1m
THE BIRTH OF A NEW BELAY DEVICE
Modern belay devices have very sophisticated braking mechanisms. The finished product is the result of a long
and intensive development process. Braking performance, handling, design – everything is meticulously
devised and rigorously tested. Take for example our Mega Jul tubular belay device with assisted braking. Let’s
have a look at how it was developed.
Requirements profile Requirements profile
The requirements profile is the starting point for all development. In developing the Mega Jul, our aim was to
design a tubular belay device with assisted braking that included the following characteristics:
- It should be small and lightweight; lighter than comparable products on the market
- It should look like a tubular belay device and be intuitive to use
- It should be suitable for belaying a leader, bringing up two climbers simultaneously, and be equally suitable
for abseiling (prioritised according to frequency used)
- When used with appropriate diameter ropes, it will provide sufficient braking, so that arresting a fall is signi-
ficantly less dependent on user hand strength
- The diameter range of ropes that it can be used with should be as wide as possible
- Material wear should be kept to a minimum
- Heat generation on the device should remains within limits
30 www.edelrid.de
Stage 1: Modifying the Kilo Jul Could we produce an auto-locking tubular belay device
that still looked and handled like a conventional tubular
belay device? We decided to modify our existing Kilo Jul
tubular belay device and give it better braking geometry.
We wanted to produce sufficient friction to stop the rope
from slipping through the device when loaded.
Conclusion: its braking performance was actually very
good and it offered excellent handling – as does the Kilo
Jul. However, the way it blocked the rope was not yet
satisfactory. And it was not good enough at bringing up
other climbers. So we went back to the drawing board.
Stage 2: Functional prototype 1Simply modifying the existing Kilo Jul was not going to be
sufficient, so we created an adjustable functional proto-
type. The angle of some of its elements could be adjusted.
This made it possible to investigate the best possible
angles for a fully functional braking mechanism.
Conclusion: an initial step in the right direction. But there
is still the problem of bringing up other climbers.
31
Stage 3: Functional prototype 2Creating a second functional prototype allowed us to explore
solutions to this problem. In addition, we were able to
enhance the braking mechanism.
The prototype had an adjustable block, which acted as a
pressing surface that locks the rope. In addition, the proto-
type has an additional hole, which can be used to attach it (to
a direct anchor), to bring up other climbers. Furthermore, a
wire (like the conventional tubular belay device) was used as
a lever.
Conclusion: once the correct angle for the blocking function
was found, the device was able to hold the rope on its own
when the rope is loaded. Bringing up another climber also
worked well. However, releasing the blocked rope was pro-
blematic.
Stage 4: Release leverBlocking the rope is all very well, but it’s not much good if the
rope is hard to release. The prototype needed to have a lever
or something similar to release the blocking action on the
rope. We experimented with a number of solutions, from
large to very small levers. Ultimately, the best solution invol-
ved using the wire as a lever.
Conclusion: the wire functioned very well as a lever to
release the device’s blocking action and can be operated
with a thumb. The only drawback is that the wire cut into
thumbs when releasing.
Stage 5: Final Mega Jul with special thermoplastic elementWe developed a special thermoplastic element to stop the
wire cutting into the thumb. In addition, we put the finishing
touches to the overall design. And we decided to make the
main body of the device from stainless steel. This means that
it is more hard wearing and lasts longer than conventional
aluminium devices. Moreover, the problem of abrasion on the
material that can lead to dangerously sharp edges forming is
virtually eliminated.
Conclusion: the contact area for the thumb is comfortable to
use and its attachment at the release hole functions super-
bly. Thanks to its stainless steel design, the device is small
and lightweight. The braking mechanism works superbly. The
Mega Jul heralds the birth of a compact, safer all-round belay
device that covers all climbing requirements.
NORMS AND STANDARDS
32 www.edelrid.de
Climbing is all about trust. We trust our belay devices and our partners with our lives. To ensure that this is not
simply a matter of blind faith, all our belay devices conform to strict internal and elaborate external standards.
This is the only way to guarantee that a device will reliably perform its duties, providing that it is used properly.
At EDELRID, we view the following norms and standards as minimum requirements. EDELRID belay devices not
only fulfil, but also exceed these standards.
CE mark (European Conformity) This symbol indicates that the manufacturer confirms their responsibility; it shows that a
product meets all the relevant European Union requirements. It is the technical passport that
is required before a product can be sold within the European Union. However, it is not man-
datory for all product groups. For example, manual braking devices do not require a CE mark
and are not bound by a European standard. The CE mark means that a product complies with
all the relevant requirements and that it is officially certified. The number after the CE sym-
bol, indicates the certification body, e.g. CE 0123 stands for TÜV SÜD Product Service
GmbH.
ISO 9001ISO 9001 is internationally-recognised quality management system certification. This
standard is used to define, establish, and maintain effective quality manufacturing proces-
ses in order to assure the quality of a product.
EN Standards The European Standards (European Norms EN) are technical rules and definitions that
have been drawn up specifically for products and product groups requiring standardisa-
tion. European standards ensure uniform standardisation across Europe. An EN symbol is
always indicated with the number of the standard. The standards for belay devices are EN
15151-1 for braking devices with manually assisted locking (e.g. semi-automatic devices)
and EN 15151-2 for manual braking devices (e.g. tubular belay devices). Products with an
EN standard fulfil prescribed safety standards and have passed a type inspection conduc-
ted by a testing institute. However, external testing is not mandatory for all product groups
(e.g. manual braking devices). In such cases, the manufacturer is exempted and allowed
to test products with internal quality control procedures.
UIAAThis symbol shows that a product fulfils the requirements of the International Union of
Alpine Associations (UIAA) standard. It is a special standard for climbing and mountainee-
ring products. The UIAA has been developing practice-driven standards for decades. UIAA
standards conform with EN standards, but are not binding.
EN
33
All our belay and abseil devices comply with these standards and have undergone the required testing. In the
next section, we’ll demonstrate how belay devices are tested to fulfil EN standards 15151-1 and 15151-2.
Test methods according to 15151-1 The European Standard 15151-1 defines the safety requirements and test methods for “braking devices with
manually assisted locking”, i.e. ‘semi-automatic’ or ‘auto-locking’ belay devices, such as the EDELRID Eddy. To
meet the requirements of this standard, these belay devices have to pass three tests. In all three tests the
braking rope is not fixed. This means that the test set-up simulates letting go of the braking rope, i.e. the worst
possible belaying error. During testing, the thinnest diameter rope is used – as specified in the manufacturer’s
user manual. All tested belay devices display the permitted rope diameters and the standard according to which
they have been tested.
The first test is a blocking load test. The belay device is put in blocking position and loaded with 2 kN (which
corresponds to ca 200 kg). The rope is permitted maximum slippage of 30 cm and there must be no damage
to the device or the rope. If the device is intended for use with twin ropes, it’s tested with two strands.
The second test is the static strength test. The rope is attached to a fixed anchor point knot. The incoming rope
is given a stopper knot, clamp or plate to prevent it from running into the device. With the belay device blocked,
it’s loaded for one minute with 8 kN (800kg). Again, the device shall not break nor release the loaded rope.
The final test assesses dynamic performance when belaying. The rope is connected to an 80 kg test mass. This
is then dropped three times from a height of one metre above the belay device. The average slippage of the
rope through the belay device may need exceed 1.50 m. Moreover, maximum slippage in any of the three tests
is not allowed to exceed 1.8 m.
34 www.edelrid.de
F
F = 8 kN for 60 s
F
F = 2 kN for 60 s
2000
mm
1500
mm
80 kg
NORMS AND STANDARDS
35
Test methods according to 15151-2 The European Standard 15151-2 governs the safety requirements and test methods for “manual braking
devices”, i.e. tubular devices, including devices with assisted braking, such as the Mega Jul.
In the static strength test, these types of belay device have to withstand a force of 7 kN (700 kg) for single
ropes and twin ropes and 5 kN (500kg) for a half ropes (one strand) for one minute and are not allowed to
release the loaded rope. The test is carried out with ropes of both the maximum and minimum diameter speci-
fied in the manufacturer’s instructions for use. There is one key difference to the tests for semi-automatic
devices (EN 15151-1) – the braking rope is fixed. Why? Because dynamic belay devices are only designed to
increase your own braking force. Should you let go of the braking rope, there is no way to arrest a fall. As a
result, these belay devices are only tested with the braking rope fixed to an attachment point. A second test is
carried out for devices designed to be used as a direct belay anchor, i.e. if the belay device has an additional
attachment point (for example a hole) for releasing it to bring up a second in guide mode. If this is the case, the
belay device has to be able to withstand a force of 8 kN for one minute.
F = 7 kN/5 kN for 60 s
30°F = 8 kN for 60 s
INDEX
Belaying with an Italian hitch
Blocking load test
Body dynamics
Braking hand principle
Braking mechanism
Braking performance
CE mark (European Conformity)
Development process
Dülfersitz
Dynamic belaying
Dynamic braking action
Dynamic test
Edges
Figure of eight
Functional prototype
Gloves
Hemp rope
HMS carabiner
HMS carabiner positioning
Intended purpose
ISO 9001
Italian hitch
Locking carabiner
Lowering lever
Manual belay devices
Manually assisted locking
Ohm
Panic and grasp reflex
Panic locking element
Prototype
Quality management
Release hole
Release lever
Requirements profile
Rope
Rope diameter
Rope run through
Rubber retainer
Safety reserves
Sensor hand
Sheath condition
Single tubular belay device
Spotting
Standards
Static strength test
Sticht plate
Testing institute
Tubular belay device
Tubular belay device with assisted braking
UIAA
Weight bag
Weight difference
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Disclaimer: this handbook provides information about the different types of climbing equipment and its uses. The contents only provide an overview and make no claim to be exhaustive. In addition, we would also like to point out that the techniques shown in this booklet are not a substitute for reading the user manual belonging to the relevant product or reading the appropriate standard literature. Mountaineering, climbing and working at heights or underground often involve hidden risks and dangers from external factors. A risk of accidents cannot be ruled out. For more detailed and in-depth information, please refer to the applicable literature. However, even user manuals and instructions will never be a substitute for experience, personal responsibility and knowledge of the risks involved in mountaineering, climbing and working at heights or under-ground. They do not release the user from taking responsibility. The equipment may only be used by trained, experienced people or under appropriate supervision and instruction. Before using the equipment, users must first familiarize themselves with how to use it correctly in a safe environment.The manufacturer cannot be held liable if the equipment is misused and/or used incorrectly. Users and or the persons responsible will bear the responsi-bility and risks in all cases.