bernina guide

8/3/2019 Bernina Guide

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MyIGuidelLModel 1130J1120Vol. 1: Instruction I \

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~n d lcetor/C on tro l pa nel BE ANI~INA1l30

h ~ l J [ ~ [ ! ~ [ ~4 I i ' I_I '.' . I - ~ . : !

A Practical stitchesB Deooralive stitches 41 Light beam with bld;,erffor stitch width4'2~ Light beam wJth t il ilnke,fo r stitch length43 SingIepattern(pattern end)44 M~rrori mage45 Doub l e stitc:h paltern46 DOUble needilelimit9~lion47 P rag ram rn iln,g b!U!ton

MEM

13 Needle position buttonsBind indicators14 Sel,eotor knob for stitchwidlih,

1 1 6 Selector knob for S l J i t C h~ength26 Presser footirJdicator'31 Needle stop down32 o/i; speed33 FI,eve,rsesewirlg Oulton34 Pattern t)Ejgin

35 8uttonho.'le36 loOng $titCJh37 8ating stitch38,39 Balance40 C le ar D um t onOL .R

BERNINA.1120

r!26 BERNINA 11,20Ii~' l J -n ~ : 1 : ~.,!,.:I_' ~"." I.~ . I ," i': ..... ~I ":." '-:~~ ~";. -C Practical stitcheso Deco ra ti ve s ti tches 33 R everse Sew -In .g bu t ton34 PatlJri beg~1 ' l35 Buttonhole36 ILongrstitch31 Bastin lg s ti tch3 8, 3 9 B a~ 1 liln ce40 Clear button elA41' l.l gilt beam with blinkerf o r s ti tch w,idth42 L ig ht beam 'W i~hJ i J i nl


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De ta ils o f the rn ach i 1181 !H ing ed f ront cove r.2 Sti(ch plate3Pressef toot4 Needle c~ampS Thread ClJ!ttar(5 Three l .d regu la to r7 SeclIr i .ng S1ilDheontrol8 Thres.d lake-up lever9 Pre-tension stud1 0 T en sio n re gu la ti.n g d ia l1 1 E !ob bu n 'W Inder (w Jfhon/off switch)12 Thread hdlder pias13 Needle posit ion buttonsan d ind~ca!tors.1 4 Selecm :r knob for stitchwidth15 Handiwheel1 6 Selector knob fo r Slitchleng1h1 1 7 p . o w e r s w i t C i h1 1 8 F ee d-d og knob~9 Connection for rootc om r oll u nit20 Quick ne&d~eth reader21 Mains: cable2 :2 P resser foot l if te r s o ck e t2 .3 S ele cto r b uM on sior

gene- ra l t L J I i " ! c t i . o n s24 S elle oto r b utto ns fo rs pe cia l t un ct to ns25 Carry i n g ,handle.2 6 P re ss er fo ot i nd iic a~ o; r2 1 ' Practica~ stitches( se~ec to r bu ttDns and~nducators)28 Sewing I li gh t sw i lCh( raJro fmach i ne )2 9 D ec ow alliv e $ tj~ h1 es

{ se le ct or b u tto n s aMin.dica1or~)~ M e a s u f i r l g s ea l eom/inches

. .. Important Note:Tne B ER M NA Madel 1120ha s fewer decoratives nt ch as ($ li? e pi C lu re Ie ftand overview page 524,2 5, 2 6), A ~I din e rences toMode l '1130 a re m a rk edWll h the followi ng s y r n bol: *


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Index 3

Setting up the sewin g m ach ine 7

Threads, needles, presser feet 17

Practiioa~1slitches., 2 3decorative S 1 t ! l r t c h e s

PracticEd sfBWing , 27

Maintenance~ troubleshooting 51


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2

Dear BERN INA custom er,

Congratulations on [having boug ht your new IB,IERNINAsew inq machine, and fhank you fo r your comldence ino ur p ro du ctYou have acqu ired a quaility Swiss product, manufac-tured w ith the utm ost care a t BERN INA, Steckborn,Switzerland."My BERNINA G uide" provides you with ev,erythiingl youneed to know abou t you r ISERNINA and its numeroussewing possib ilities.Iwyou require any further lntorm ation on your sew ingm achine or a ny a dv ice on sew~ngl prob lem s , p lease donthesita te to contact y ou r BEIRN IN A dealer.We w ish you enjoym ent and success ill you r sew~ng .

Yours truly,

O de tte U elM ch i" G eg au f, C ha irm a n o f tb e B oa rdFR llZ G EG AU F LiI'D .Manufactuf!9( 0 1 ! 3E RN INA S ew in g M ac hin es, G H -8 26 6 S te ck bo rn . S w i:tz rla nd

BERNI~EJ


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INDE.X.


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INDEXAi l . c o e s o o r i e s BJfjAcc as so rie s b ox 9~ flitting 9~ . r emcM ing ~JAutomat ic storage 3 1 1AlLltomalic butlan-holle 42 -45

B'Balance 30~ fine adjustm ent 2 :9Bas ic se tt in g- alt r~ ng 31- com bing . , . , q t h funcnons 32- returni ng 10 31: 8as ti n g s lit ch39Blind hemmlng 40:8 Iiin d sliitc ih 2 580bbi r l case andbobbin 12. 13ButtonMla- a uto ma fic 42- au tom atic, w ith g ilm pcord 43- lu lly ~ ut:o J1 fla tjc 44-II!J' lIyautomatlc, with $limpcard. 45

cCarrying case 8Clhang~lig!he bllbs 53Oeai il li ng and oiling! 54C~earbulton (GlR) 00C~lar ing 30Oom pactstltches 2 6II)Darning 49- wi~hsma l l darning,ring 50Decor at iv e s li~ che s2 6. 31 , 8:2 , 33- a lle riln g th e b as icsetting 31- c om b ir1 l~ ng w ithfunctions 32- ty pica l programmingapplicatflons$3~ the use of 3 '1D ou ble n ee d~ :l imitation 30,32DG ub ie overlook 2 4Doub le O lf flrlo ck ~ream 37 'D oub 'e stitch pat'terrl 324

EEdg e s titc hi I" Ig 4 : 1Edges. QVerse:wi ing 29Edg. ing stltches 26E dg ing w ith eliasHGtlnread48

FFarlJ l~p re ve nrtio n 5 2F 8 ! U l i t y stitdhing S2Fau lty te rl's io n S gFeeddog- low eri I1 g the 1 5-lower 11- and fabric feed 2 1 , 2 2~ and presser feet 21- and thesew~ng ofcorners 22- and sliltch length 21F in e a dju stm e nt w ithballance buttons 29Plat joiining seam as, 37Floral stitches .26F~lQtcontrolu m it- OO~llectirtigl 10- a nd e le ctro in ic needileslop 1 0Fo rwa rd s tit ch in g ' 2 8Function bu ttons 30 , 32- 8 8 !1 a il'lo o 30- Sast~ngS[itcih 30. 39~ .C le ar b u tt on (etR) 30~ Dou b le noodile l im it a n o n 3 0. 3 2- Do.l,jble stitCl'lipattern 32_ wng stitcih 30. 39- M irlfO rim ag e 32- rN le ed le s to p d!own 30- P atliern b e,g i:n 3D- P re ss er toot indicator 30~ . Pm g rnmm i rllg b utton(MEM) 32- reduced sew ingspeed! 60-~ re ve rse s m vi n gbutton 30- S eCU Iring sHtcthcontrol 28_ Sjng~ pattern(pattern end:) 32

GGathering slitch 2'5

H I

"Hand look' stitches 26Hiem, v is ib le ' w i~.h- Jerseystwh 35~ 1~ipt62ig'213.g 35- \ /a ri ove rl ock 35Hems, p ract icalstitches 3~H on ey co m b s titc h2 5 . 3 4 , 4 7Hook 54

I 'nsertinglne bobbin 1 3I:nterlock fabric.mending 48

JJ ea ns ro ot 2 0 , 38JEH.5e,y stitch .2 4, 35. 48

IK .K nitte d fa bric s, s9 l! .! !ll,n g 3 4

le .a tn ce r! Pla stic 8 8long s l i i ' t r c h 39L owe r th re ad~ b rE 'lakS 52_,br~nging iUp T5- winding 12

MMachine- faHs to run 52-fails to Se'!N fiun zi gzagw idll1 l 52- s ti rtcn ing in 'reverse 52- w ill oi1lly ru n slO 'w :ly ) 52Ma in s c ab le ,conneoting 1 iOM aintena: , : e e < 54M EM ,~p irog r ramrn ingIbutloll) 3 : 2 'Menrdililg,_ iinterlock fabri ic 48 ,, _ t ea J ~ S I :. Js ~ n g Run!"l ingst'i~ch 46 .- wqvenlabric; 47Mirror i lnage 32M.otQr 10

NNec~band- w ith deCQ:rat ive seam 34~.wi th ~r1 ockS am , 34Need~e and fabric 1 8,Need~ebreaks 52Needle positi.ons 28Need~ stop 10- d O 'lN n3 0- e le c tr on ic 1 0Ne.edla,. inserting 1 6Noodle,. standard 49,N El'edl,etihrea:d lab lie 18Needles and the sewiiflgmachine 18Need~esana thread 18Need~es,ajl l ab ou t sew J1 ngmaCih~ne f1eadl lss .18 f19Needles.speciral 19

oO iling and cf.eaning 54Open seams 3.6Overlockseerns 87Overlock. snitdhes 24/:26OverseMing ed g ie5 29


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I INDEX

Pa!!:cn;ing 'Us~ng~ Honeycomb stitch 47- Jersey sti~ctn 48Pattem begin 30,33Patte rn e nd ts i n,glepattern) 32,33Pearl stiltches 26P~agtidLeather 38Power S\Iltcn 10Practical srntdh hems 35Practical stitchseams 36 137Prac tica l s ti tches- forward $w ililg ' 2 41 .2 5- re ve rse Se'Wling 24/25~ la b ile 24125P r e s s 9 ' r' f e e ! , 2 0 1 2 1~ a utomatic b uf io f1 ih dl, efoot 2 0, 4 ,4 14 5

- blind stitch toot 21- b u tt onho le f o O l . 21- changrng 16- darning foot 21- embroidery foot 20- ~ear1$lbot 20- o ve do e:k ro m 20- reverse pattem foot 20~ ta:1~oraoking rQot 20- zip foot 20 " 38Presser feet andfeeddogl 21P resser toot indicator 30P re s s e r f o o ~ l i f t e r 1 1 1

- a tta ch ing 11~ and lower thl~f u e d i - ' - d Q g I "P re ve nH on,f:S 1 ult 52PrograMming 33P rog ramm ing bu rtton(MEM) 32

RRedu jc ed s ew in gspeed 30 -R everse sew ilr!9: 2 8, 30R e . . . .. e r s e seW ing bl.m :olil 30Runnirllg stitch 24,46

sSafe~y ins~rtlctiolils 6, 55Satin stilch 2 9Seams- dou ble overlockseam '.j!-fllat joining seam 37- o pe n, s e am s 36-ov.tlrllO Ck seam s 36~ stretch seam .36- stretch ov.e~lock seam 37- triple s tra ig ht s!ijtchseam 36- V ilif'i'O II riocikseam 37- zig z .a g se am , 3 < 6Secuw if lg s ti tch control 2 8S ew in g ~ ig ht1 0- chang in'g bulbs 53Sew,irJQ m aclhine needle~s,all about 18119Sewin,g speed,reduced 30Sewing tabh,~ 11- ~~tt i. rrng111- removing " ' 1 1Sewn-ou~ z ig - zag 24S in g le p atte rn (p at! erl'1 lend) 32.33Speciallneedles 19Stitchl length. t o . aller28S!u tch wid th , lo alter ,29Sliltcnes~.decoralivestitches 26~ Edg~ngstit:ches 26- C om p ac t stitches 26- F lo ra~ s ti tc hes 26~ " 1 H . !\ 3 .t 1I d oo k "stitdle.S, 26- Pearl $t~~,es, 2 6- a lte rin g t n ,s b a S i csetting 31- c omb in in gwHhill notions 32-faulty stitching ! 52- fforw ard se win g pra ctic alslitches 2 4 / 2 1 5- Blind stitch 25-- G a th eri1 ng s t i t . c 1 h 25- R iL lMf llng s ti tch 2 4- S sw n"oi.iltzi,g -za.g 2 4- S j1 ra ig h.tstitc h 2 4- Slfetohsmch25- I lJ rliw rs al s titc h 2 - 5- Y alri" Ov-eT~ odk 2 4~ Z ig -z ag stilch:24~ ~ever se s .ew ing p rac tica lstitc!has 2 :41 25- Double ovenook. 2 4- H:oneycom b ,stitch 2 '5- Jersey stitch 24- Stretch O vedoclk 2 5~ li" ipie stri3 :ight st itch!Tr ip i e i i: g, z ag 2 4

S litches B ERNIIN A 1 i1 20.25, .2 6Stitching- edg l 41- ~ orward r 28- In ee dle p os itio ns 28~ feversesewing 30-top 41Storage, automatic 31Straight stitch 24,28- triple straig lltstitQ n :2 '4S tlretcn O ...erlock 2 5Stlretch seam 36St re tch S l .i tc tn 25

rThread- b rin gin g up the I l o w e rthread 1'5- n ee otes 18- threadilng the upperthre.ad114Thread cutt.er ,. 5Thread t.enlSioli1~5Thread, i ( . l \ N e : r- breaks 52- bring inn up t5- w ind ing ! 1 :2fh re ad , 'U pp er- b tealks . 52~ tf uead i ng the "4ihraader!(Quick flee-diethreader) 1 4 -f op s ti it ch in g' 4'~ u .s in g buttonholelhreadtCordoon:et)39T r i p l e slra ilg lht st itch 2 4T r i p l e stra i :g t l t st itc ,hseam 36Triple z i g ".za,g :2 4

uUl il ive rsa l s li tch 25U iPpe r th re ad- breaks 52- fh re ad i nglhe 14

V ari-O verlock .2 4.1 .2 5;34 ; is !Veri-Overlock: seam 34,37Visib le hem w ith- J e , r. s .e y ~ s t i t c n 35- T~ip le z ig -z ag 35- Vari-overiock 35wWoven fab ri c,mending 46, 47

: z.zig-zag seam 36 ,Zi g zag stJ ildh 2 4, 39~ Ir ip le :24. 3SZips 3S


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lmportarrl

SEV, VDE (Officia~TestingAu tho :r iti es in SWi tze rlandan d West G e rm a ny).The fo lilow ing aaif ety p rec8 !! :J ~tiona m ust be observed ; The mo ving need le is asou re s c~ f"danger (,r:iisikf

Ii nju ry to the f l i:ngers), .A~ways"th ers :fm e \ k eep y ou r eyeso n th ,s a re a inwth ~e h you areworkin9,.' A ny operations per-form ed wrth in line needJ!m o vem e nt area, e:g ,'e:h,anging a. ne ed le o rp re ss er tio at" m u s t alwaysbe cardad out wilththemachin.e, SlNirtched off(pow :er sw itohat K III I),Th~'S8!me appnes '1 0 re -moving andreplaci ng l theImver thi r ead bo t)Q in , When Icarryiing (glutmahlten,am::e (cfeanin9 or,otll"ng)i. w h . e l 1 l e v , f l ! 1 1 ' wod( tsin teli 'lr iUp ted 01 : 'Unishedlan d idso fo r ,chang l~ng lbu~b."the sew ing : machiin re lsh DUI~dbe d lsee I F ' !neeted~mmthe mains by reme-viinQ' the mains cable~1 i'( 1 !lm"eso cke t.I . Rep;a iliS te tlh.e e Ie e-.~flni'C:s" wUh Ip,arUcu lai!'l ieferen.c,e~to chal ilg in'g i~heconnect:ilng~e~d,shoulcl be, Ciil ll il l' ied euton'l by a 8ERN IINAdealer~

6


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Carrying case 89

Mains cableFoo t c on tro l u n itSewing m ghtPower switchN a sd le s to pPresser foot lifter0_': tabl~!ng .. eBobbin,ca_sea nd b ob bin 12,13Thraadi n g th e u pp erthread 1 4B ri n gin g u p th e lo w er thre adThread tensionFeed-dog HiI inoor ti ing the needleChang l, ri g p resser feet ~6

7


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Carrying caseCliinying i08H:oaccenorlesThe c 3 . !' ll "Y i 1 n g c a s e c prol00tsth e ma chin e hom doS E.anddirt.AI\IVayScarry m e m aehi neby it s h:andle~

TtIa case : has a . blJm,inaocesso:~ies .compartmentPress regL I . i a l i i O g bar nosw~ng oot the aceessoriescompar tment T,h;ishass:pacelo stow the footoon.troll.J(Jit.~he tpresse r foo tl i , 1 i l : e~ t li le seWlrng table andBERNI INA instruetion books..


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Accessories boxFhUn:ovingthel!!c~rtelJ boxSimply pus h th e a cces so -ries box. backwards.

The accessories ooll(allCMlS;a C C G s s o J i e s t o be s e e n at 3 .g lance.

IFlllng t he l! IC :eeNOReebQl ( onto thlil maf;ihllnl!!The accessories b ox haslw o,fixing lu gs that tit i nt o t hebase plate ofthie machine.Lay th,e aecsssortss box:ento tM base p la te h om ther'e ar. a nd p re ss against th efr ee a rm u n til! t he f ix i. ng I Lf g seng ag e u nthe ho!8sprovi id 'ed .

SUlndl!lrdl!u;:CestOtlh fwtile B ER N IN A 11 306 bobbins wi~h holes1 SO ffl)5 H ,ne ed le assort-m em:Auler- lemp latessem rip,parlDarni,ng riing.,w ith armNeedle threaderSm al l: sc~evvdrl verSpecialscrewdriwrC le an in g OOJs'hOi!er" 1illadSoomtqui l l ing guideZig-zag, presser footReve rse patt ern footO ve rb clk fo otBlind stitch footiBLJttortidle footA utom atic b uO Oilhdle footZ ip footDaming tootJoons footTa i lQ r tack toot:emb ro id er y fo otS tandalld a c ce .H < lr i. ee to rthe B ER NIIN A 111206 bO bb in s with holes1 30 f70 5 H need!.' assort-mentRi.de'~templateSeam ripperD arning ring , w i]h armNeedle- t lmeader$malloolf lWdriverSpec ial scr 'ewdniverClean inQ tm , J !; hOi le r , f ii ll edS oom l,q uiltin g g uid eZ igc-zag presse ! footReve rs e patte rn f oo lOVe:Mloc~.looteli n d s !ft c; h fo otBut l.O l ilho~e footZ ip fO OlDaming foo tJeane,fuotEm bro id ery f,o o~ :


13/59

Mains cable, f oot con trol unit, sewing , ~ight,power switch, needle stopCcmnecUng malns eabklandl foot control ",nrtpum the mains cable (A ) O!JIfrom th e maohM16 an d pliJ'ginto a pCMrer8Q( :1ke i :. PUI~tih8caJb le t ,r omU i le foot comra lI.lnitand ~FIOOrthe p lu g im osook:et (B).P re ss l Ju l! to n (C ) to .mtornalicaJiy rewind th e m a i n \Scable in~o the maC:h, im; ! .

IRlot controt unitThe foot cOr it ro lL ln it i s usedto n!glUlate the sewingspeed. I;tils fitted with .acable winder. Press knob(0) to rew in d th e caJole au la 'matical i ly .The sew ing speed can b emmtro l l ' ed (rom virtualily 0 tomaximum speed by varyingthe pressm e on Ihe pnate a~the f oo t cont ro l uniit.

Sewing IlightThe S - e ' W , i n g l igh t i sS 'Witohedon and off by means . o f ~heswitch a U n e rear .o f th emach~M. When,lne PO\Wf~ilch lisn the I ~:J posi~ion,the .~~ng tightis alsoorf.

-TM p ow er s w itc h is ' th e rearknobon ~ne handwneel Slide01Ul rnachl nr;l[JEJ 'iIliIe machine isS\N,itched oft."I Th e machine issw ltc he d on .El!ec tron lc : nee-dl ia a topa nd fo o t CQntro l u . n l i lWhenl3l lef YOUI slop sewing.,lhe electronic sy"Srern returnsthe n ee d~ e to its htgt1es t1P0siNon.By gantlfng t&p-pir l i 9 meMck o~he footcontrol w ith the heel; ~haneedle carllbe movede' lectro nic ally d own irilo th e worko r re sp ed !iv ely u p o ut o flh e'N O r k .

Th e o . : c . mo to r.and ,el ec -tro nic sp ee d c on tro l givee xc ep tio na lly g oo dl fa .b ricl P e n e tr .( ll ij Q f 1 O O W ' e r, e v a nW i h'8 'n O O o V i ri g at slow speed,


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P resser fo ot I l i f t e r , sew i ng tab leFlatu tliilepr'8l1nrtootIi.owerthefeed.dctg AHacli:lllng llhepNlser'(lot flfterMany :SeMIing lopera tion iS a rem u ch sim p ier if both hali!dsare free toguideltla \ I i I O r k .ru e p re ss er foot l if te r i so pe ra te d b y 1 he rig ht k r;u lleaM I is u sed to raise G lildbver the presser foot, ,leav-ing both nands free.Wlhel'1lhe p re ss er lo ot Ime r. is moved 1O Ii 1e r ig l ht, t hepresser foot is raised and atth~ same time tne feeddogis~oweroo_

The p resser foot l it te r i ss tm e d in the canying case(see picture on p a g e 8) .The pr-esserfoot l if ter sooket~ Icca ted on the ll 'lO ln l:~~gh, thand Sd30 of the base pl.~ nsa rt the p re sse r lo ot IittarS o t ha I i,thangs to the left,~tshou :ld bElposs ib le tooperate me presser fool: m!e roomfo :r tab lyw il tl il t he r igh tk r! ee, w ithou l n ee d: to after1 h@customary sitting posi.110 f t I ,~he angle o r 1Mpresser fao!: lirft.er is I.mQmTiI~f or tab le , it can be a.djusled.,' !bur SIERN INA dea !ie r \ 1\1 1111be pleased tomake tl1isad~justrnen! ~'ofyou,

The next s t r t c h , I r e t J . J f n s thef eed: dbg to sew . it ng PQSmOI lL

SewingltatlleThe S9 '!N ln g tabl e i s used 10efiillarge lhework ing ! SlJriooe,!I ~simDJif i .es aliiSew1ng whe~e~heree arm is not feC lu i red-

!Removblg the sewingtableFitting tliilasowlng labileSlid~a IhiEl t a! b le a fo rn g ; the treea rm unt iil the centeri I1 g pinseflg8ige ilrl theh:oles provided~ Press f inmly ~FO;r'O thele ftlO l! OC kth e s ew in g ta blein p os ilio n o nih e m a ch ~l'1 Ie

PU1~h irm ly to lh @ le ft (a wa yfrom '~hemaohin e) to r ele aselhe sewing tab'I~


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Bob biin case a nd bobbin, w in din g lo w er thre ad

P la ce emp ty b o! bb i~ on Jspiod1le { f 1 i g i . 3 ) , .Ta~a ~hr'iEloofl'om th e eonenreel ol " !fhe~hlread! holdie'rpin, pass~hr~addockwheOIwuM ~ h e pr~~ei1lsion s t J u diQ thsempty bobbl n ( t i : Q . 4)_\ I I l i l i l d arolulld t h e ,e :f ' Q 1 P tYbobb in sev.eral ~imes ,aga in. . . 4 ~o a Clock\!iiiise(j if1eclior;'l , .-,."...... Set t h e p C M l ' e rS V ! I i i r o h ~ o the! _ posit ion. Pr$S~heeng .ag ing li8veF E agaJnstthle bot).t)i ! '1I.TM bo, bb ~ riImotor wil~.startto FUin.Whenthiebobbl n li s ~u!~,he bob_bin\l\l'inder will slop automatically:. T l l ' H ' j o Winding operat ioncan be stopp~ at anytime,i f neoess.aty by p1ressi Ir gle ve r A (f ig . 3) .

..3

~ , 2 .

RernO\lilngthe bobbinCfllileSet. tne poow er swttctlID~h,eC[J p o s l t n c m -Ghetk lh~ ~M r1eEid~esr , a is e d . . n m : n . r a is e t h e r r 1 e e -d Ie \Ni~h~heha.ndwhee1.O pe n th e .h in ge d fro l1 t c ov ero n th e lr e. e a rm (tig. 1 ).

Wil1lhe i n d e > : f in ga tr o f t hel ef llt 'l an d , p u ll ! t he bobbincase latch f c l ' ! . ' L ! ' a l d (~i:g.2)and rel'n lo ve tHe tmb ib i ncase . .

Wlndllilg lower~hread

Wi ll en r emov in g t he bobbin .ern the lhread by pulling itIUIn.deran,dupagainst ~he~ h r > e < a c lClutier at t I 1 e , base 0 1the s f lim : l le ( li ,g .5) .


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Inserting the bobbinlineerUngthe !bobbln Bring thread anti~lookwiset o the s lo t ( ~ig . 7 ).H old th e b ob bin CaM i n t hele ft h and . In se rt the bobbirr lwith the th rea d ru nning in aclockVifisedifOOtion, seearrow O l i g . 6).

...PILi!!the tr.r ea d in lO the siot(fig.,Sl

. . 9PLlI~~hehread under thespr~ng until ~.U e s in:theTsha,ped s lo t. allheend: ofthe spring.

Whenl llhe end 01 the~hreadis pulled. !he bobbiin ~ouldtu m dockw isa . in the dkeo~Of1 of tile a rro w (tig . 9 ).

13

In rUng IIhe!bobbin cueInto the hookHdld t he . oabb in case b y th elatch with t he in dex f in g e ra nd th um b olthla left hand.1II'lserlSO that ~he filnger 01the bobb in ,c as e points up'!Na ItIs.,&n ga ~l'ing ! i r , ~ : en otC h of th e hoo k ra ce (JO'II$:r(liig. 10). Check: p u n endof t hr ead . C lose the hingedfrQnl CO'lJef.


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www.Sewu,s,a ..cJnsb"uction '

i -I~-

.. .2

Tile QUilei(, fileedlethr8aderfol'~lhn8diln9 tnerneedle'(iligl.3)14

Attl'lle,f(ont of the machiN;lake ~hie t rI re ad dDw in lNa rd sunder ~he tluood reg' l i la1)Qr(IB).,Up' again~;t.helhroodta i( e. I. lP le ve r a U he top (C)and then, dOWf " lV li' ards tOIh,eneedle hol d! er t hr ead' g u ide(D) {i,ig. 2).Alw ays thread the needlef rom f f,o nt t o ba ck .T he sma ll wn i,t e p n l1 tec!1thafrom onlhe' presser r o o ts ha ft h elp s \ i\ l\h en threading~hieeye of theneedlie,I P l u U : t he thread appro: !i i'matey 1 0 em (4''') through~ eye o f th e ;n,eedle.

Threading til- upper1 !h~adSe!~h:e ! p ( ) V ! . t G f SNitch '[0 OFFI:IJ :Che ck , tha t the n ee dle ls il nthe ~i$8d position,Raise th e p re ss er lo otPlace, I t! Ie cot ton re~ lon o neof the tWQth ,r ,~d holderpilna HO ld th ~ cotton reel iiiP O S i t ij f) n J w n : i ls t threading.First c lip th e. t hr ead in to th e1 i11,~eadg! .. ijdeon the tQPofth e m a ch in e" th en b rin g itthrou gh the i longs lot ( A ), o fth'E!threadi tension (f'ig. 1 ).

:tftW:'H:~


18/59

To n ;!mQVe thB'i'Klrk, raiset he p resse r loot, IPU ~wo rk0 1 : . 1 1 0 0the Ireat l e f t a n d h o o kboth 11 ' 1 reaoo in to cu tter .The th re ad e nd s f re e t h e r 1 f l l -selves wnelil yo u start se w-~r1gaQain.

BrInging uprtholowerth.... dSe t the powe~ switch to' _ p o s U i o n . ,Holdtl' la end 01the Upjpelthreadwilhtl1e right h ,:m d ..S e i . v a s ing le s li il ch by tap-ping 011108 on the foaloon-tro t T he n ee dle s to ll' win er rs ur efh at ~ need le retu r, nsto ! Is h ig h es t p os itio n. P ullltie upper t hread' s o ! hat t hel()'!JI,If:rihreadis bmug'ht uplih ro ug ih th e h ole in tne stitchpl~e {f ig. 4) .

'rhre8.dtensiononee tme I'TI IE iij ndvan tages.of BERNI IN A ma ch in es is~hatth en ~ i s v err yme lly a nyn ee d to a lte r tM e thre ad te n-sionfo:r l1ormalsewingl .F or th e n orm a l te t1 sio nse t-tiing, th e led ma rk o nlhetension regulating dialstlould nnatchlheadjacenlmaik on th e m a chin e ~fig.5) "

Take IbO' lh~hreads throughthe stet ill t he presser footandl i !' lape t o the S ide . ' In -stead of us l !n.-gthe needles top. the 10000 fU il reac l canbe ! it up by turningthe heel fo rw ard w ith!1'Ieright hain.d unti ll t he ,~d :l e r et u lnslo i ts h jghestp ositio n. In Ihls c ase ! heupper lh !re ad h as , to bE i h $lidWithltie left haod.

Forspeciial.sewing. ag..ortaiior tacks. t he thread ten"sion can be adjusted w,itt"!!~he,'aid of th e re gU la tin g d ia l,Turn ing ' the t a f " l : S lO l " ! ' regolst-li ng d 'i al fOWl' ards "lo numoor40 r below, g iv es a lo os erupper thr ead tension. Tu.m-~l1gtlile lensi :on ~,agulatingd ia l b ac kw ard s, to n um b e~ e :or above. gives a t~hteruppe rl hread te !l 'S ion .(})(;)ot forget.:T h e ' r tI r a a d te n s f . c m S'houJd. os rese t to flo rm al w h en [hespecia l sewing f:Ias bOOl loomple ted .

L.owei~in9 the fHdl"da-g 'For cert .a i l' !' ypes otsewi ing .& . g . . dlaming, . th e fab ric m u si'not b e n m ove d by th e reed.~nsuwh cases, t he feed -dogshould bs lowered by turn-in g rh e near l knob, O ' Il~hehandwheel side af [h,emachi~ e, t o th e rf g hl u l'lU liIh e m a rk pOir ltS to symbo llIiIiI: (lig!.S ). .FO I al~normal sewiNg. , t it lem a r k On ~ h e ki10b s r r J O t J l dpoinltosymbol ~.The j ,e ed d og williretU!r('l ~Ose "" '~ng ipos it i( )n Wi th the f irststitch.

15


19/59

& . 1 1

62

Inserting the I I1H.dle.A small brO'!l!N'lscr,ewdriiV(l;rf or s 1a .C k en in g o r tighleningthe needle damlp iisprovide d i! i! !h e a cc es so rie s 'b ox .S et ~hepower SIMien to theI ~Q;: : I p os iI io n. Chec k th atthe needle i ls~n1t1.eraiHdposition. lower the presserfoot. .Tosladkeiiltle Mediadamp; Half a.lum fOliWards.aJ1~I..61ockwise(~g.1) .

ChanglngpreHGr f,eetforthe v.ellmUSpfGSSetfe et and the ir lJS B$:"sseP 8 f 1 F ; J S 2 O I 2 1 .The su ecsss o r a. piece ofsewil!"!Qislarge!y governedt ly the conec t chor ce O fp~esser foot.The' teet are therefore easyand practica~ to cna1 'lg e .S et the o ower SW 'itc h to theOFf ~ posif ion.Check that the need le is in!ihe~aised posi~i(m.R,B li se the p resse r f O O l{f~Q..2 ) 1 . .

To i n se rUhe r lOOd la : T he ~ lla tsi~ of the I'1f!!t!dleshanksh.oulda' lways be to the Irear..Insertf l' le : n .eedle unti l itreaches t~e top. Ifthe i"Ia&die does nm . ream .~ top,i,a is se t too l o w . faulty,Sliitcheswill I! 'e$ull TIgntenthe nood le c l. am lP secureliy;

Ra ise thl !! clamping levelyJjtJl the ~nd:ex:f inger of theright hand,andl usingl themidl;lleling&r andlhumb,IFeO'IO'o'e the p resser foot{fig,::!)"To.ar taoh the presser foot:t tle prooedure is the same;bul press the c~ping II!iM:fdownward!3 with t he ~ indexfinger ( t u g . . 4) "Se t the p o w e r switChl to the_ posttlO!"L

" 3


20/59

N eedles and the sewingmachi.ne,N ee dle s a nd thread,Needle andfabrlciNeedlefThread Table 18Sp ed al n ee dle s 19Presser fee tFeedcdog i and stitch!IengthFeed: "dogand fabr icfeed 21F eoo"dog end thesewing of come r s 22

17


21/59

AI~about sew~ngmachine needles1.Needl~Qand thes 8W lln g m a c hin eYou r BIEAMNA has a1301705 H needw sys t em .M ak e su re" w hen b uy ingIFle\lll nood les, tha t they aret~le130/705 H s ys temCommemia l lyava l lab te nee-die sizes are nos. 70 to 1 2 0 ,lhe finer ~hen ee dle , th elower th~ numbsr Fort n re ad , th e o pp os ite a pp lie s.T ria nnar the thread. thehig her th e n um b er,The ta ble be:low showsw hic h n ee dle sho,uld beu se d lo r whi le ! ; thread.

iNeedlefThread Table

1 .8

2. Needle andthr'Hc 3. Needle and fabirlicNeedle eomd lt lonThe needle m ust be in per-foot cotndi~ion.S6 \l! ,i lj :" Jgp roblems arecaused by:- 6en lliood lS $ (A .)- Blunt need~es (B),_ H ooked tl p s (C )

B

*

c

The n ss d1 e s ize requireddep ends o n rile thte adseiected. The needle mustmatch' the thre~d.When sew ing ., tn 's threadI lie s ~n the ~ong g r oo ve o f thenoodle(~ig.l).IHhe noodleis too f ine, the I n read will notfit into the groove (lig. 2) and, f au lt y stitc'hing wil l resuH.

2

70 s oeedle 110-1.20

1

Darn in g th re ad * . '.S yn th tic s e'lM ng th re ad

* *

100

Embro idery thread n o. 3 0

*ewi n ;g ~ h readMe roe ri se d cot to nCoarse mercerised cottonMercer ised synthellc

*Bu tilo nhole th read fo r to ps~tching (Cordlonnet) I *


22/59

All a bo ut sew ing mac hine needlesThe m odern dom estic sewin g m a ch in e is capab1e ofhandling a very w ide rang eof iabriC $, H ow ever, as in theI rade, spe cia l n ee dle s arerequired ~oirsom e o j' t nes efabrics, e,g. need le ,s w i thvary in g ty pes of p oint.

T ab le o f s pec ie.! n eed les N se d Ie d ese ri ptcn Ne@dle point Suiilable fo r

S t a n c l'a r e i n ,e e d le 130 /7 i05 H Norm a l p oirn , S l i g i 1 l ' 1 yrounded Un iv ers al n ee dle fo r w o ve ns yn th etic a nd natural f~bres,e.g, iinen,chiiffon, baliSls,.o rg and y, w ool, velve t

Spec la ll n eedle s 130f705-31::S F ine b all po int rifle knn tle d f ab ric s, madef rom s il k ,syn the ti ics ,. cononand fine w ool

He av ie r 'k nitt ed f ab ric s ins yn th etic o r n atu ra l fib re s

Special s l w e t c h needlie.Espec i,a lly for delicate Drd if fic ult s tre tc h f ab ric s

Twill, wor ik wear , h ea vy linen"d'enimfabrics, c a n v a s ,P~elicesdense fabr ics more' e a s i i t y

leather, suede, calfskin, k~d,p ig s :k in , im i ta tio n le ath er sand suedes. plastics

130/7Q5lH-SUK M edium ball point

13000.5 H-S M edium ball po in t

130n05 H-J E x t r a . fine pOlm

1301705 H-LR+H-LL Cuttin g p oin t


23/59

Presser feet are an impo~,Mitnl aid 1.0 sewing. They an?!Qesigned W i i th g rooves ; andg u i:d es , T he su cc es s o f ap i e c e o f s e w i rn g J i s , d e te r -m~nea by the correct Cihoiceof pfe13~r toot' 1 [ 0 ens ur e th e: success ofever y p iie .C9Q I' oowll"l !Q,BEF tNINA 's s tanda rd aeces-smiies include a wide range0 1 presser feet.Addition,al r'eetare s v a i i r a b l i E !for speoial 01' speci~~c s . e w -i fig. Consul~t yom BERN IINAde.a.te~,In:dividlUaI PJesserfeetareIno~\Jst fer o na p a r t h c \ J h : u~pe ot work, ' W i l e y can alsob e u sed to sim plW y oth.ertWo:s.

Inthe cass of lliie b U I U o , n h o . 1 efoot, to r example.'Button hClmlng=:m:aina,pplicaijon;G ru he ;rlrrg '"a;dditional~piPliQ~tr1Qn,Some pr-esserieetc.atl, look:quite similar alHrstglanaes o to a 'I Oid c onh; Js fio r:r theya,eidentif ied by numbers.The presser feel shawn onthis page ara stand'aMa . c c e s s o r i e s i " : n , most C O U l n , tries, bu~ in ,rome OO l , J l n t r n e . swhere sew in g Cu ;s .tol il ii Sa r~di f: flSrent i the range ofpres$er feet may ~vaJ r y.When a sl iroh l isJselected,the approp!r1iate presser- footi1u!,!" ! 'berWillbe d isp la ye d o nthe presser foOl i:ncjicator{ seei nsida c ow lr . n o, ,26},*ddit io na l a eces so nes to rthe BEIRN IIN A 1 '2 0 rn ed el

c 1P 'I"O& t! or f oot t ,o r 8~raI9[htdilehpndl zlg.zag

2O verlo ck fa otV8iriQVeirIQcksepl'tlVari-OVfilrlock. hemsOvars ew ing seam ed '{J es

AutOlmatlc b\lttonholsf(lot

6E t'n br old er y fO oo,tDecorative stitchesSartin stitcliflingAppliqUlf3,Couctl ing

7$Tal,lor tllcldln~g footTI ll lo r t a c k W n , gFirirlgi'hgFag,gplil irlg

4Zip footSewiin,g lin zipsPiping

8JeansfOGISliralg'!lit slltch seam s Inthlclk; [hard tabrlcs andover thick 8eams


24/59

,3Buttonhole footButtonholingBather'i:hg

5Blind Mitch footB lin d h emm ln g iEdge sti tchi' !' \Q

9Damtng footDarning,F ree hand monogral iT lSNee h an d emb rO id ery

Feed-dog and fabric feed1.~. iIU'Id.-tlk:hilengthWiith each stitch, thefeed~do g moves forward by 00&s t e p .lhslsf1Igth or this step isgO'\ lerned' by ~he st itchlength selected.W i th ,a n & l W E N ' n e ly shortstitclil ~ength., the steps aree xtreme ly s ho rt. T he f ab ricmoves under the presserfootqu~eslowly-even atf ull sew in g speed :. Fo r exam p le , tll.llK ln :h ole s, s atinSlil:Qhing and de\:Oralivesiitdhes ar e se'WrJ Mth th,isshort s ti tch l>eng lh .Imp'orhlnt:a}Ma~ SUI'e that ltie tatlrK:feeds evenly!

b)[Pushing win result in "gaps'~

:: i ! . Feed.clog and fabricfeteda}Thefeed

b)H t l" iG l P r e s s e r foot ~ s 1 i l t e d .a{J, a f a $e.1IIlI m h e m . n n efaed;Ciog wiil b e u na ble t 'Ogrip t n e fa.bric. The work \ ! V i t islick.

0)Pla


25/59

Feed-dog and fabric feed3. Feed"dog and tb.eHwllng of corners1 : 1 )The two rows of teeth of thefeeddog are qu ite a dis,.ta nc e a pa rt b ec au se of th ew idth of the zj'9-zag needlehlola. .

b)When sewing e arne rs, on l ya sm all part of the fabJiic isactually on the feeddog soit can not transport the workootroot:ly.

c)If arolde cl p ie ce of tabie isplacedagai nst lhecomer,the feeddog w ill o nc e a gainb e ab le to wo rk p rope rly .

22


26/59

Forward and reve rse.sewing pract ica llstitches 2 4 12 5Decorative stitches 26

:2 3


27/59

F orw ard sew ing practical stitches 1 -9fR everse sew ing practica lstitc he s 1 0 -1 41 Stra~glhtst itch 4 Var i-OverlockfabrliCAll t ) l!pes of non e rasbefaMe.Us..A ll s tr aio g ht s titc h wo rk .*

2 Zig~zagstitch

Mos t types ,

Al l :simp le l ig ~S !g 'Hmk, . e.g.over sew il ng , es ,peda~ "I " onf ine fab rics, o ow ilng on eli3.&-l ic aJr idlace. etc.

3 R u n l 1 l i i in g sntehFabll1cMosltypes.

lis",Met ild ing . patch ing . , re in foro~ ng e dg es :e !; c.

Pnmamlyk l: r m inesvnthe tl c,silk S ind cotton jerseys.UseaHligltiliyelastic overlocks eam iS and hems , p a I F I i C l u -IMy s lma lb le tor sports un -derwe8i~,pyj:amas, Tshklsi~hirW. rUin'ningsuitsetc.

(I *

II

~

~9 Sewn-ou tzig-zagMos~lypes.Uses,OvetseWiillg IC l i l J S e l y ' r I \ I ' O ' Y e l i ifabrics. ireinfbroirngl andIrepailring edges, deco.ralive' > N O ' k .

24

10 Tr~p ie s tra liights~itch/tripiezlg-za.gFeblicGordlulOroy fabr ics , denim,dec koha kt ab ric s, a ll h ea vyand ro u gh f ab ric s.U l s e e :Rei n fo rc ed l s eam s arid visib il ehems . Sewi r t- gorl !apes .extra slm lflg seam s fu rS P O r i t S w e . c : t ! " o wool~enbl1l!rlkels,.sleeping bags,rl .fksackSi and $Oft toys ,

*

1 1 D ou bleovertookF irm kn itt ed f ab ric s andh and a rn e!machine knittedfa~nics.US"

1 2 J erse y stitc hFabricI ln[eriock ! i lnIlaturall, tilef'!dedand' syntlul~icl oras, ve llour :UsesV is ib le hems . visilbh~,s,eame"p ar tic ula rly t or urnde,rwear,sweatshlii'1l$ and ,de~icateknit le d la J:u lc s. r ep air s lin in te rlock U I ! 1 d e l ' \l \l ' a [

~ ,~II I !


28/59

Forward sewing1 pr.acticalllstitches 1-9/Revsrse s e w i i 1 n g practicalstitc!hes10-1145 S tre tch s ti~ chFabric

UisesFUg l i ll ye llast icopen seam! ! ! !f,or~ailoiredO iW ! l : e r wee; r , alki,horseridllng., c lim b in g a ndhilkingwear.;Ie

~,3H oney com bstitchFabricMaJnytypas of interlodkandjerooyfabr~cs.

V is itile h ems , v is ib le s eam ! ;fChl'T"shi;Ii1s"S'W8at"hirts.,undeM-ea~, na,pkirns, labh:;;cloths; craft work etc,

6 U niversa l stitch 7 G ather!ng stitch 8 B llindstiiltchFabric Fabric fabricFor fiJmer kn~ned fa!b~iC$, Most types, MOS! .ypes,h~l~ leather etc.IIIsesFlat J d r : J l t n g seams , v is ib ' laheli!1:$,patchw-ork; interlock,se"\iVingon elaSli~, mendl~g"decorn ti rve seams~

14 StretchOverlook--Flbt\icMedirumweight knittedfab ri cs , t ow "a ll in g , ve lou r andother l il rmer fabriCS,U.e8S~riock seam s. i I I a r t j :oininQl:seams" oraft work.

Uses UsesBlind hems; :shell edg~ngoJl~oft jers l1 ! 'f and ~i IMfabriiGS,deoorative ' I I I ! ' O r K

* Pract ica l s titchesBE.RN IINA 1 1 2 01 S t ra igh t s ti tch2 Zig"zag slitdhlJ R~.1 f1niQ stitch< I YariOvar.loclk5 Stretch stitch6 B !l ind sli~Gh7 TriplElstraigh~ stitchlt rip le .zigrzagS Doutl la o ve rl oc k"9Jersey stitch,{IHoneycom b stitch

25


29/59

Decorative stitches BE RN INA 11130

2 .2

- 2 5= 1 =

33

26

* DecorativestitchesB E RN IN A1 1 201 1 = 32 of BEHN lINA1 1301 2 ;; ;; 2 7 'O f BEAN IN _ A 113013 '" 160f BEIRNINA 113014 '"' 25 of BERN INA 1130

34

15 161 *

l/"

26 ,


30/59

Straigiht stitch,Needlepositions 28Zig~zag stitch}pm dicar stitches 29 'Function buttons SOClearilng 30 'Automa tic s to ra g e 31Deooratir'VestitchesaJt:ering31com bil"ling with functions 32ty p ic al p ro g ramm in gappllications 33Sewing kl1ittad fabrics 34Practical stitch hems $5Practicm stitch seams 36\ 37:Zip tastener , Jeans root S8iP'lastic/l...eather 38tong stitch,Basting stitcrn, a981~ndhemmi ng 40Edge stitching 41Automa1i~ puttonhQlia 42.Automalic bu tto nnolie w i~ hgiimpoord 43Fully automaticbuttonhole 44Fu lly a LMma t iio b 1 u rIto nh ~lewith gimp cord 45Mending wovenfabric - 46. 47Mend in g in te r! oc kfabric 48-Darning 4-e50Darning wim arnallldarning riing 50

27


31/59

Straight stitch, needle positionsFon'tl l l :datitchintlS~lect stra ightst i tch ~Itleilndicator nQht w il l c ome on.The 's tit ch leng th ~ ig l 1 tbeamwillishow the aUtt oma t icbaai c s e tt ing"

T o a lte r t hil stl,tQh lengthThe ~i~tchength can [b e ad "jiUlsted with!l1e' s!i~chlengthknob to suit the s.ewingandfa!bri~The b f fi nl ke r w i l l i aU ~ s h O ' ! Nthe base Seffifilgl"The s ~itc hlM g lh is re tu me clto th e basic s . e f f i n g l by press-ing the C UR o u t lo r" .Securing the end.(AI,Ihe begi !nn~ngari ld endotasea:m)IPresstl1ieSecLiningsllitchconli l'oI ! ; Ir ld this machilne wil~saw i Jr 'i lre'\l 'erOOtAfter 3-4S titc he s. , r ele a se th e Se cu r

28

Ii ~ ~ ~~fi I ~. ' .. _ .. ' ..Need le p os it ionsT he p ositio n o f the ,needleca n be moved t o thele lt .o rri .ghtWith th,eaid of buttonsAa.ndEiTypical,uS/eS:Edge ,sti tching',.page 41.S9Wting in : i l l ps, pag e 38.F o t n otma f , Se am in g'" th er J (f e d k iJ u s / .F s I r y r e m a in s 1 1 1 'the cfmlla .

f,

' I " ~,,

. "

I.


32/59

Z ig - zag s titch/p ractical s titchesztg..zag stitch!plfactlcalldilch."

: I ' ~ U [r" [! .I I ~i- iii'. __ ' ', - ,- - -

$i.,tln_ltch :IiiiCI08 ..zlg~ze,g Select :zigzag stitch, 8(1.just stitch width as req :u i red . Set sU tch l eng th t o ! ;lG ti !r lstMhi. Sew a test ' Jji:ece! ....

An,eacijuatment with, thebtlillnes I:nirtklnl3IIIZ.IU. . . . It tha ziQ'ZSQ is to o o p en .p ress t4 'le :. . 'bu ll ion once o rmOfetime!l, I t t h e e zigzagis ' 1 0 0 close,presstha + buMoiilonce o~mo re time s ,

j ~ ; i E r-~-~ { ~ I I I ~! :i ! JI 4 t:o e r iii .g 1 i : I II 1~ 1-]. 1i!i

" , I~.: 1 _ " ,I . I ~I'. I .'I :~~j . -

T o , a~rlhe atltch,wldthThe s ti tch Width can be 00 jl!.!sted wi~h tt iu9,.st itchwidthkf"lob to sU il 1 he ,sew ln g .aMfabric.T h e stitcli width o f ,W ' o / s1iWnc an b e a lle to o al any t ime .E W E I n whiJslsewing,The s , f i l C ; h , w,idlh isrlRurnedtooasic setUng ]by pressingt he e lLR o l! .! il on .

2 9

SlLt'Ql1sel:don:Needl e: 80 '70~h r,aad: ' !: rnbroidercy 601D a , m u r \g ' U : i ' r e a c iIf !i!~ry. aa'ju51 mes ti tch w id th l andst i, tCh Jengdlto s uit ~ he faMc."Gen~talJ' I ,the rigr,zagshouiljd1 " 1 0 " 1 . be too w . ide o r ~hestitch

IIi9riglh tOO I C O in .g .U s a a s fineijltfnwda$ possibla, espe-Cia ll y on fine f ab ri cs , Beg ir nby c:umng.:away Ilhf ifkaye,dedgli.$, Gu id 'e l tr e ed. geQ~~he: fab f ic to theoor' !t re of thefoot so tha!~heneedle ogoo5'! in to ~ ifabni[;,tllen ewar theedge. W h . e n ~ s . e v . : i n g Orl i th~edge, g uid e w ith th e lin ge rst c i ~heedge .


33/59


34/59

Au toma tic s to ra g e Decorative s titches, alter:lingA u 1 : o :m a t ic Momlill8A lte ra ti ons, t o' a s ll ioh Wid tha ! '! d lo r t eng~h 'N il l b ep ro g r, amm ed' ~mo th e adO-ma l i c storage H~rme.nysti1tdi ias a re s ewnbetWeen.wIl@n t I1~ aliteredstitch is I l"sel'ectedlhs! alterations h a v e i l" (l f l' 1 i8 J ln e d . Thisis pMicu%lrly wluablaW'hen,

I F o : r egmple:'1 Select Zig,reg ,sti tch ..2 A lte r t he s li tc h w id th ! ,e .g .width 4,aU.erlhe stitch hailglih. e.g.lengith,2.3 Sel!e-ct Runnil l ' lg ,stitch:The Ibasicsetting w m l ap.pea~4 Ae$Ellect 2:i~"Hag:Tha sU e red setllng w i l l iremaln,

AAylwo, altered ~ltchies ca nbe s tored ~n th f ls way" Thea lt ered ! val ues a re retainedu nlil re se t o r c le are d, o r u n; tll! tiJ emach ine i s ~OOdo ff ,

c on stru ctvn g a 'g 'a rm ! ,! nt" :L aSl! ra ighl s l itch a nd z ig cz ag .

Us. o f the decorativestftchn end function,bU,ttoM

To mum to ttle tlllliesetting

The st iOO hesand. frunt:l itoobuttons: may be used andv ar ie d in ~h r'9 9 differentways:t AUar ing the "bas ic se tt ing ! ,2 . Comb i ,n ring bas ies~ i:nQandlttmclion buttons,3. Proglramm~~g,1.Al l t l r fng. the .baslcaetHng,The a l te rat ion O f stitchwidlhs and stitch leng~hsoffers a Wide' range of possi-b ilitie s. e g , f or mo tif s; ,oordersem

T he ra a re w . o , ways of dOing~his; - Manually reset to thebI~nker,U.sethis rnelhodwhen wisn.~ngto reset only t he w idl h orttle leng~, of a Slitdl" O rwhar"l wlshinglo, reset ,onlyo n e ofl'!iYOaltered stitches, W i~ IheCLR o o t t o ! ' n _th is c le ar s af t aiteredset"t ings,.

Foreumple Stitchwidlh~1 1 5

2 a354 35 56 5'7 3

Mathod~ S elect ~h,aeqillired stitch.T he in dic ato r lig ht w ill c om eOrl,'. A d .~ oS '!t he et iJ ch w id thandJl'orstitch langUt Before m akiillig a newalterat ion, c leari j1 ,e l ; !dJuSl:"men ts w i U ' : l U" laCU R button.

Stitchf a , n g U i J :

2 3 4 7

I'

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Decorative stitches, com binlng wtthfutnctions

Slingi. pattern (patternemd )The mach ine w ill s m p eith-arat th e e nd of a . pa tt er n m at~neend 01 a p ro g ramm e dgr()~p of stitches.

M irra r im a g eThe machin e W'ill&i/Ii'V these le c ted s tit ch i n m i~ rorimage.

l h....II I . VD ou bila stite h p arH amThe m ach! ne wil l S9\IV theS>eleotedstitch wi~hdoublethe n um o o r o f ~ ito ne s.

Dou 'b le l i' ileed1eI llm l ta tlonThe s ti tch w id th , l s res tr ic tedto th e malt imum wi,d~hforsew~l 'i Ig wl , tha douldle l ilie-die (2mm do'u:ble noodle)-MIEM+Programming buttonThe ma ch in e W iillprogramrrnelhe sel.ededstitches.

D , : ~ I'~ '1 0 x 10x9 ~. .r:u : l 5 i ! ! i i i ! ! ! i Z9 r'~ !~ +"!IIjj I

*ERNINAl120On this model , ~ti s o .ni y pO'S"-sib'Je 10 com bi ne a stitchwith therollowi,ngf;ullc~onbutltons:I I .IU lIIIlI I +

2 . C om b lnling the b aS Icse tt in g f tnd fune tl o!UCornbiirlil1g th e biasi:o settinga nd h.J in ctib n b utto ns e arng iVe somesu rp r. is inC I e tf ee ts(see VOl. 2 "lr ispiralionalsew in g" ). . The Io1 1 0 00 0 in gfunQtior l lbul i tOhSe a r n becombined wi~h,he basicseliiiings;

Method:.saect the i requ i red s t itch" S elect th e ,required~u'nc-tion b utton . Before s ele cliin g 8 . n ewoombination, dlearthe fun,c.-{ioo, but:ton w f t t 1 , the elAIbultcm ..A n um b er rn ru ln dio l'il b U1 ton s m a y be OOIiI i1bineds imu l t al l. eous lyW i th a bas ['oSlitGti. .


36/59

Decora tive s titches, ~ .yp icalp roq ra rn rn i n g applications3. Programming :Eiumpl.e2P ro gramm in g e na ble sgroups of stitches to beseleCted'and stored.

Nuhod: S e'le ct t he re qu ire dlslitchlpr9$ t l " I a ME Mbutton, . S elect the nextstitchtp r,e ss the M EM billtOn,.. S ele ct f urthe r s titch , a ru :jsoon,~ts possillJle to store - m : \ I' es ti tc hes in t hi s W f I! 1 : Th e indi-calor lighis lo r the stitchess ele cte d w ill rerrtain on aslong as the stitches ares to re dl in t he memo~yBe fo re se looing l a.newp ro gra mm e s eq l! Je nc e,presslt1.e etR ~uttor1 Mice,andl cleat siPecia~func1o!"lSby p re ss in g th e approprieb~on"A useful Up for ailliembrokl~erywork:Pattem begirt. . . . . . .~]A lways p ress thisbefme$ la rt in g to o o w - The machineWililhan be at the start onhepattern.Single patl:e~n(pattern 6'[10)'

The m achine w illi stop:.at the end o r S ,stitch, or.at the end of a . pre-g ra mmoo g 'ro up o f s titc he s,This function is a lso e x-1 rem e ly W IIua ble w he n ssw-i rlg mo t if S or parallel rows o fiembroidery.Reduced sewing speed:%This is I iJ se fu~ for d if fic ult em -broidery W'Ol'k.

HEAl\! INiA 1120It~snot possible to prog r amme with t hi s mode l.

Example'

Select stitohl 19/pres5MEM 1)( S elec t s t l I01 '1 1 251pr&ssMEM l x S elec t stlloh 20fpressMEM ;;!)( _ Select s ti tc h 2 5 1 pr es sM E M 1 x

S e ' \ i W ' ! i n proQraml iT1edgroupe: S elie ct S lrt ct! O O I p r e s s .M EM ",: S a'le ot s titc h 2 7/p re ssMEM1x.,,"':>i,0Salad mi r ro r ima.ge lprSSMEM 1x S elect stitch 341 pressM :E M 1 > : :. . .~Ser6ct m i r! ror im ag~p !eS$MeM 1 iXSe 'W1 ln prog rammedgroups

.~lear minor . imagaJpressMEM 1> : S ele ct stitc h 2 31 pressM E M 1 x SelOOl :sUtcf il27/1PJessM E M 1x ..Sa'lect s ti tch 31 tp ressM E M 3 > : : S :e .1ect :sti rch 23fpr lSSMEM l x Note:T h elo iJ ow 'in g s ym b o l isused whe'f1 a h,illCl.ion bi:.rt1ononly must bede"Sred~! . -.nIP~baJanoe (:-) 1 xI.YSelect singl!e patterrn

1 2 3 4 . I, I

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Sew i ng kn itted fabricsImpol1lB:nI:tUse e perf~ needle. Evena v ery slig htly t)Ju m noodleWiIl '1a r:naga the k l1 l i~ .caos-i l1'1l9l to.lladder;2 ,Use f i lne :sevvangthread, pa!l"tk::ularly fo r Iine kn it tedfabrics~ Coarse thread ca nalso damage the knlt3,U se dam i ng lh raad for b asting , W nen the seam is sewn,darning ~ re ad lis e a sle r torennove than the cor rl side ra blythicker and shorte,floJeOOstifi lg thread.4,P ress each sesm as it isSa'Wln, befo:re goi n g om to ,ttlenex t. s tage o r sewing.

5. .S e v v a . sample to test {heSl!1LChandstretdh.Asm odem texliles vary con-s ideraJb ly iWltheiw e las l! ic ity ;th e ba sic setlirigl sh ou ld b eadj us ted, w t Je ra n e o e : s s a : r y .to ooit t~ fabie.For e(:(tr~r;nelystretchyfa !brics: . - S ho rte nllh e s uh ~h llength!s1ighUy and/or iir'llcreaselhe stitch wJdthslighdy.Ths gives the seam mm,ethread, ma.kJingl~I.mores tr etc hy , The sa am sho uld !baas s li re lChyas ~heabric.

Necl


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Pra ctic alstUch hem s

Baste Ihe hem , depth O f, h , S ( ! I i ! p lus nninimum of 1 em(o/i,~) extra, se w and cuiaway surplus fabr ro ag:ains l:stjijch. Cne ck w iU '! i,mMuo -l ions for V I IOr '; k il lgwith knittedfabrics {page 34!).

V e r y $ Ir et r; hV hem , espeo ia lly s tJ ila tl le ro r lin e kn, iMedfabrics.

Visible hem wltliilJerseyI t I i tC ih ~

Vllibla hem with TrIpleZig-a9

35

V'lelbl. hem withVslfi,overlookNoodle : 8 0 17 0Thr ea d: S ewin gl ihwead /Darn ir lg 1hread Stitch: VVVVVaricQV.einook

NeedlE!: 80-90

_Stitch: ~Jersey SlilCh S titch : IVV\Trip le .z igz.agE'asliic vMoible'l:'Iem for kiter"locks i ln cotto .n" f ine wodl is yn th etic a nd b le nd edl iares.

SUtch \ l li id l l' t zth-.5, depend"i ng ( )i nma ter ii aJHard . .. .ea rl in g v i\ S il bi e !lamr o l r tilrmfabrics, e.g. denim"r oll er b li nd f ab ri c. dekchaMfab.r:icetc


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Pra ctic al s titc h seamsThe type of seam chosen is ,governed by tile garmtmtbEli1ngsew-n, li'1ectJoicE;l fslnch pr im ,a li ily by the fabr icbaing, used,The re a re t hre e ty pe s ofseam:

Opellll88aml::These are seam ,s that areIPrE; !ssedopen , lh$ 'i I re f lat.a n d a re n O ( b ul! l< .y , .Tihey al i lowgarmems to 00letotAUsed in dresgeS.. housers.,$II)lrts, coats, Jacke ts etc

Thes e a re s eam s that ares ewn a nd O'VeIi$Wfl, i,n on eoperati.on.They a re q u k:k to produoe,and are nar row , b ut do n ot:al lOIw.garments to be le t o utUsed spooi.mliylor knittedf ab ric s o n pullovers, T-sh~rts,~irts. running sUiits.uM erw ea.r aM for handaM machine Iknlitledga~rrnenls.

FilMjCtlnlng seama: :The se a Jreseat1l 'lS i,nWhichtheedgas are O\I'erilappedla nd t h e n o v e rs e 'W T 1 ,The y lie flatnu;"y a re nar n} '! N , and againcannot be le t ou tThey co not curl. The ed'gesare ,heatUsed for beach'wea~i leisurewear, rou:ooatiiOri garmamsand crID l: \!YOrk

Zlg.,za,g SHmi'ilple str1 llght s tl tc 'h . . amOpen seam

S~itth:NNM2igrzagslito h

Needle :: 80eedle: SO to 90 Nee dle ; 80 o ot v is 'ib le ,eg, wnense\llfingJ onp oc ke t$ , m a r klh e line wilhbastin,g T n , aool" i l lmstingoolOIJ~ lhis W ' il . l show on there ve rs e s id e and ' c an easilybe , rem01 ! loo whelllhe worki s completed. ,

With cefialrl! ~b.rics a$iz~ 100 needle coulld bel a~g :e enoogn_ Sevv a les!piece.

bl BuHGnI'lClI.1hNSdlst hoe" lower thread

lB aa tln g B tltc h:With Bast ing . s tr toh , ' lt iemacl'1ine Sew!l every sixth,s t i t . d h , p ro du cin g I! r:m g b a st-~ng~i~ches. up tca maxirI1'Or;l'i leng!tih of 3 em . Basting sti itd1-soon jb e s e w n u nan y of tha 5n oo dle p os l-tlons

Needle: aO-90Thread: SewinlQl thl,eadtl Ba s ti ng t ~l" S ad Stitch: ------Straight shlctJStitch l en gth : 1 0/ 2- .5Needl e pOS if io n :a n y posi ,~jonFum;:tion b\4ton;Bastlng l stiloh _ ,TO secure ' Ihe - ends at U1 eb eg inn ing and end o f th es eam " sew'S! feW sti~chesw ith n orma l st ra ight$itchilngl,

l


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Blilnd hemmi ngGluidll'lg tlill;l' workes t piece

(Eii th ,a ron a scrap p iece offabric ~rorrlQarmenl . Ord ir ec il 'y oli l t he hem.) GV"I:enth e vaJ,ialions in fabric thick-,n3Ss.it is advisa.ble to SQ'Watest Piece f l i r 5 t _ As when _sewilng by I hand, the needl,eshould ol1~ycatchheedga(JI~hefabti ic.The bas ic . s e tt in g l i s always: astitch width of za W ilh thev,;,ui!atioos in t abOo tni ck n es s, m i no r adjllstmem maybe w e q u i : r e c i .Teslpeca:Savv sloMy to th e pointw ,h:enthe needle sw ing s to!h e le tt. W ith the aid of theM r" IdWhe el, b Jr i'! 'ig ~ e n ee -dla d ow n ~nli I n is .~l.Istabol.ltto en ta l ' the faibri~ Checkthat itiisonly juSl catchingthe labric. I f n ece ssa ry a d-j I . J S i ' ! the sJJ1tchwi 'c l tt J ,sligMly'n _a rro we r jU n e n ~l& 1$g oi n.g in 1 00 far anda IliW ewider ~fit is fa ilin g to catohs.ufliciantly.C lle ck ltie , ne xt Zig ;zagstilet'! ~n~ .e s ame 'M l y_ Then s e w IQ r apl'rrndrnm ely 1 0 om(4")andoheok agai'li,

Needle~ 80-70T hre ad !: S ew in g Ih re ad lDarn ing t li 'ueaod Gltj~a the!hen1as shown inH g . , 2 _ S titc h: A...AJI.Bllilild Slilch Tip:

Wh~ lst se wiing , h old theu nder fabric b ack slig hU y.

Aswilth h a n d sewir lg. ! i t r wfaMes r 'e qlJ ire a flM' needleand! a fine he~d,.Thf fi wo r~! isbeS! d oo e a ts Jo w s pe e(I_

MethodThe hem should be pre-pared in tha sama way asfor sewi.ng by hand" Over~sew r aw edge, b as te a Jidpr~Positioning the hemThe hem is ~Iionedundenhe 1 1 0 0 1 :s s h o w n t i nf ig.1! ,

' & " 1


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Edge stitchingEd!if8stltchlngOn colla rs :. cuHs . lape ls,hennselCNeedle: 80Thr ead: S aw i rig 111ead. . S tit ch : - -- -- ~S t ra ig h t s ti tc h nS tI tch l eng th : a s r aqu ir ,a dNeed le p os itio n: Ile fM h alf h ili.Presser fOOt:Bl li ! iid sti j[Ch r o o ' !No.5

1"3P la ce the edge of~hefabric,from the Ilert.


45/59

Automatic buttonhole

Threadi: Em~broideryth re ad 6 0 lD a rf lin g th re ad ,sew1n9 thread

MdlQdiN'h.en sawj,ng buttonholes,.IhreaJ:! the i lO ' \ l' l'erthreadthrough the f ii l1ge ro~lhe 'bobbincasa

S eW in g th e b U rU on ho leBr~ng lh.e (Jeecf le to theoentre of t he p resse rklot\ ! ' I ! ' i t I l . thle aid of t he han dw l1ee1Qr needle i i i tOp,l. .a 'l lv e~ lhe needle ir lto ~ l'1 efabrrc at the sta rt o f th e buttQ:rihole, ICl\ l 'fef the presserfoot,

1.The, mad1ir l le w ill ~ 1 I1 ef,irstbead fmward$.S lO p the machir l 'S ' wh in theb utto nh ole is the de~iredlength.2.P re ss t he butto:l'l 'll6le bUllen,The m~ t ch in e V ! l'illssw thebar lack and1~he reversebead.On ce a g ain , stop th emachi ne whEm the seoondbead is level winhttiei'fi'rst3 "Press the Ou l1ooho lebu tton .lhe maclilioe wlll stM tMbar tack and secuol' l lgstitches. .The mac.hioe w;l11$to,p a u r t o - -matically and be r:eady tos tar tl ih l nex t Ib rn ton'h6le ,On~11 fu rthe r oo tlonholes .,do not p r es s the b~t;tonhcteb u r w n a t the start 0 1S E ' ! 'W i n g .Th e mao'hineiis a lire ad y s etto S SY l 1 l ' i l i l ' i ) l i r s l bead(stage 1 ).

Testpleoe1_P ress tM bu :tlonholeb!.iitton.2 . A iI \lVayS Sew' a te st buttonhole 0 1 1 1 fabric- exactl.yacSgarment.3. 1 1n ec es sa JY , ad ju st th estitch tangltJ 00 SlliEthet ab rk :: Fo rwa ff ii ,beadi ' W i l t!thestikh lenglh knob;r ev er se b e ad V l f i t h the .. or- b ala nc e bl.'lltar'l.8ead too d .en se ... - b ~n,Bead to o open, '0 . ... b.utton,Altering the bald widthT he w id 1h ot the ~ canbe altered usiing the: sef,ectorknob f Q . r s tit ch w id th (t es t) ,

42


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Autom atiic b uttonhole w ith g im p cordTh.e glm'p corddrengtMIiII' thebuttonhole.,The g impoord is parfiou-l ar ~y impo rt ar tt f or , aUknil:tedf~ ric s - in dJ ud ilrlig handan d m a ch~ ne k niits - to pre.ven t t :ha buttonhole friomp u r n i n 1 l Q l Q L I I . of shape . .The Ihickoos:s oflihe corddepends emlhefabriclO bese.vn. Sunable cords~reJ;lerlieyarn n o . 8 1 Dutionholeth,read, or 1~ne:rochetoord.,S e ' W aEr iia lbut lorn~oIe ~~rs.tLay the fa bric u nd er th e-fo ol$0 (hat Ihle l oopO ' l~he oor dwi l 'l corms a l: th e en d 0 '1 )h ebU !l.'OJ1 holepulledl ib y thebu!t01l (fig. 1.).

Po.I,tIOfling the cordUis eas te r t o pos IDo li !! hecord IiI th e needna isalrreadyin tha fabric: Bring th e nee"d r e to the cBtl~reO f Ihep re sse r f oo t. ,u Sin g th et laoowMeei o r n ee dle s to p.L owe r~e litOOd lieirrto thefabric at the start of the buttonhole. Do riot lower thefootyat.H ook the g im p ooral Ollerthe cernr!!pron1lgal the fm!1llof the buttonhole fo ot(fig . 1 ),81 M take b oth , e n ds b acKl . lnde:r the f oo t ( fi g . 2 ). ILawerthe toot Checkfuat~hecordis ab le t :oslicie. i l .a..ha t it lsnot tr ap pe dl b y t he foot,Sew th e b utn on ho le . ID o n ottJdld ~ii1egim p c o m . lit m u st ,A 1be a ble to S lid eF,iif"'aJ~;pu ll lhr 'Qn , lg lhhe loopof corel.

,&.2

43

&3Secaril1gthe gimp cord CUffing!tM buttonholeopenII "I ! k J " i r t l e d fabrics, puU'ltleeM s of th e oordthll'()ugh tol I " I e Iback using a c:o.El 'l 'S$hat ldseM'ing ,needle ( f i g l . , 3)a nd tie Of sew lin securely:(In woven fabri ics, the cordendscM be s im p l y o ut a f ! f .. )

I~is b es t to o u~ from b othe nd s lo wa rd s th e ce ntre 0 :1~habuttonhole: (fig, 4),lnis avoids cuttiln~ltirou!Olhabarlaok.


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Fully automatic buttonholeFuillY:(I;u,tom.ucbuttonholeNeedle : 8 0- 70Threadl: Em'broiJderylI '1reaOlOOJDamirng tru,ead,sawirilgtlium

MethodWhen S9 'Wing ibu tton iholes ,t i" l readt tJa lower threadItlroogh thefirnger of thebobb in ] case .

BWililghenaedlelolhec en b" e 0 1th e p res se r 1 0 0with ~heaidof the h~rild"wheel. lower theaneed le intothe tabric at ~hes ta rt o f ~ hebu ttonnol le . Lowe r t hep res ser l oo t

t.The machine willi sew trne~irstbead fOrv.raJrds.StoplM maohine whenU'lebuuol'1ho le is t he des ir ed~ength"2 ,IPress title bU.ttonhoie QUItO! ' ' ! ,The machine will i swi,tch, toAUTOmat ic ,Tihe buttontu.je 'isIprog,rammm.F:rom nO l.Von. do no t press~h.ebultOn'hdle bu tt on a ga in ,"Themach ine willicomplete~hebut lonoole-automaticall"'tIFOl further routtoohQ'les. sim.p ly in se rt th e noodle a t m e:Sta~of~he but tonlhdle~lhemachine will . s e w the. entireIbol!\ootJole autom,ooc( l ! l ly.. PI'tISS1he buttonholebutton.2 , A lways sew a lest bolon-hole on f abr ic e r.act li y asga rmen t'3, H necessary , ad jusUhes tit e. l1 l eng th t o sui t ~ hef ab ric : Fo rwa rd bead ! Y I! li ~h

ths slitt:ih lengrth knob;r~rs& b&ad wi,tl'l the ... or- balance outton. .!8ead 100 dal" l: Sla " " ~ : bu tt on ,.'Bead roo open. . o f- button,IMark bU lit onho l . .Mark.Me bu tt onho le onl yas thebultonhoJe, will bep rog rammed ,

44


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~FuUyau tom a tic bu ttonoole withqirnp cordTheglmp cordatrerignlena theIxIH:onholl ' .T he g im p o or,d is p artic u-l ar ly importS !n t tor a l i knittedf ab ri cs - ll il cl iu :d ing handao o m a chine kn its, - to prevent m e oottol1lhole f r o mpulling om of shajpe.1 ne t hii Ckne ss of theoorddepends on th e mateuiallobe s ev vr'i. S u ita ble c or ds a rep erle y arn n o: 8, butto:l1holethrea d, o r fin e cIochetthrea~,Sew a trialllbultOn"hole I~rst lay the fabricunder the foot SO,1hat theloo p 0 1 'th e c ard Vlriilcome attneeM afth,eDuttonM~epulled by'~ne bu tt on ( if ig . ' 1 ) .

1~,iSeasier to position thecord it the need~e is 1 31eadyin thefab~lc, Move th e f100'die to theCfJ'l1l:re at thepresser toot, u sin g th eI M n d w h a & 1 o r needle stOj:lL l : : ! w m " Ihe needle ~1iltOU"!efat:xiic at the sta!1, oHhe bultonhole. Do no t ' IO 'Ne r tMtOOlye1.Guide theoord to ~he,rigihl,u nder th e buUooh ole fdota nd h oo k i~o:ve!th e p ro n. gat t h ! back .Then b rin g ihound, !O th er6ft and forw ards, u nder thefootPulll both ends of the cordim o the re ta in in g $lo ts a ~th ef ron t ,~ig . :2 ) . ,C ut aw &y an y 6~co~d(fig ..3),

S ec urin g th e g im p c ard and, cut ti ng Ibu tiO ri lho le open,see ~Automat i( )bu t tonho1~:page 43.

,6'

&2

45


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Mend in g woven ta bricMendin g te ar s u ein gAunrling stitch .Mod ern d aflrlin g m e th od fo rte ars an d thina r,ea g o n ilrlU-~Iy aJillabrfcs..

Needle; 00-70Thread; Embroid'eryUnread 6O IDarn~r :J g th read Stitch: /", ...1\A u r m i l n . g stitchSt it ch reng th , : .Ad jus t to su itlhe fab~ic~where necessaryFum::t ion button: ~

Impo.r tant:AI/ways il ~ a ~n ef ab ricu nd ern ea th . On te ars ., seN3-5 I'(l'V!IS o f Runn iing S l it ch ,{ f l ig.1) .On~hi.n,areas , .S8'W sufficientadja oent r ows ito OC l \ l ' ! e r "Overla p th e i r o w s veryslighNy.

46

MethodOn n a t garment .s it is po:9$i.bl~eto~! :Jml lia \YOrk"~O' !Nerth e n ee dle in to th e f ab ric todoUnis ,so the .s titGh ir ng is a ' I -W i !> in a lo rw a rd d ire ctio n(fig. 1) _Ort~ubu la r i ,te rns,(sleeve!;"t ro u se r I le g s) , plieSSther ev ers e sew in g b utto n a lte rt he f irs t r 'O \N ,.m - ove the fab ric,sideways slight lY: and"SiaWth e s ec on d ro wi n re wr.s e,C o m i n u e ,a lt e m a t iP ! ! J forwards and lreverse (fIQ. 2).

3 2

5


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Mending w oven fab ricPatc'hingllllsingHQneyComb Itlt 'ChFor ollterwearand espe-ci:al~y ~s. ..-Nood~e: 80Thread: IEmbroideryth re ad 6 0 1Dam i 1r "lQ ~hread

Step 1 St it t: li iI : - - - -- -St~i.ght stitch Function t J r n t O I l :BasNngstitch1 D 0 not cut ~ worMornareas, P in patdh to tM rig htSid) and bastealong~heedge 'u s ir lg a a rl 'i in g t hr ead l.

StepSC le ar B as tin g s titc h. SMch.;------Straight stitch.SUlCh;~Hom:I)lQQIi]bstitch Sew ' a ~raight sliltch alongthe i.r'lSide edge oHhe

HoneycambStitch. Then cuta\l!la'l th e w om tto m p ie oafro m b ah in d p . r o e h . T his iseas ie r w ilh th e s tr. aig h lstitch_

Ove.rsewedges w ith Honey -oomib51itch. Guide the edgeohM patch to the r ig h t. o fthe ;!i:g"za,g s1otot I h. e f oo t t oe nsu re a ll H on ey co iT l bs tlto he s a re o n th e p atc h.

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Mending interl!ock fabricPatching ualngl.:Jersey IEdsI'lnglwith ~lasUcItltch thrudP rima n ly f or men din g l in te r~ Th a ela~i(llliread is u se d tolock l!JnderMa~. restore distorted edg~ to1Mii (llugina'l ShapeNee dle : S O -7 0Thread: Emlb ro rde rythwead 6(IID8ming ~hr,ead.' S~jtch~!&Jersey stitchSmalil.ear,s/ 'wom Sll'aElsar'abast darned, S ee pag a 49,Fo~la rg a r t ea rs o r 1NOI"1 ' la r'a a s, i t is b ette r to :OO'N on apatc h a sth ~s ra te in s 1 1 'i1 eelaSlicily,Cutout a patch, possiblyt ram t he sot. !o d p ar t o f s im i -l ia r d i sca rded ga rmen tWhere possible round offth e eernees to Ipre~rveelastidl,y,Pin onl~l':ie patch and ibastea s c l'os e a s possible to theedge: 'using sma l l o o _ s t i l i ' l ! ; lstJitChes, Thalil ~ palchilnlO place using 1 -2 rO 'WSoiJe rse y s ti lc h~ F ina ll y, o u ta wa y to rn fw om p ieo e frombeh~nd patch.

48

Need le : 8 0 -7 0Thlread; Emibroidsryt hr ead 6 0 J IDa rn in g th~eS!d.St~dii: WNNZig .zag s t i l O h lS li ld h w , id th : approx" 3

Guide tw o strands of elastict hr ead a lo il 1 g~he edge an d. s e w i,n place With ,zlg"zagstitch ig e ntly p ulliln g on th ee las ll clh rooc t


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DarniingThe prllnclple of damlnglT h E ! feOO~Qg mu s t 'b et owe le d f or d a m i l ' i l Q ! asd'lew ork is m o ved to a n d 10 0 byhand! and no~ by th e feed,dog" It Is ~mportarrt ' tOguideeven ly Wih:endaJ ! f1 ing andIti.is will take a 1~19prac1;ice.Whe never possib le, u se ad>El!min.grin g to ' K e e p thed 'a rn i:ng area t r i lm .M ooo the rlrig ba


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Darnilngwi~hsmal l darning ringT he sm a ll darning ! ! 'InSihe sm lC lJ ldam~ng ring isparlicujarly' practical fordam l ing sma lll to rn /WO Inareas i n line fabrics, and in~ne u nd erwe ar. f ln e $0011,$and pullove:rs , e.g" inI- !Ielanca,interlock"~ersey:

,&2

50

.&3 Usi!nglha I a f : t hand, ~itthespring o I i i p a s f - o U o v v s :Close ttle spring dip, ~nsertUI1!OOJhe index f inger of ther in g t n a n d and fIoid f i rmly.T he n p re ss th e ~pringclipdown i,rto t he r in g ( f i g l " 3} .~r,"lngt_hnlquafubulisw items are tlsuanys l i t o l 1 e d up 8 rT 1 dd ew n o odthen sid'etc side as iI is no tpossib 'le lO , t um 1M \ i' l, f( )r k.

S,tNtchlng thewo!ik F it the dw ning Ir ing.wi~hoot the spring clip , on to~e free arm (fig, 1 )< S fide the garment overthe free a rr n go in g a ls o'~the damililg Ifl lng. Push ~ darning ring asl i a r as possitlle 10 nne I 'eft , .PJace t hi e i ndex: II ng5 ' andll 'l umbo f i the r igh t hand Olilth e d arn in g rin g . to fo rmadrde.. W ith th e le tt f1 and. SNe tc 11the tabri ,( Jover~h6,end o f thef re e a rm . Hold the leinrs lo nedf ab ri c w i, jn t h 'e t humbo f th e r ight lhand ( f i i t , , " 2 ).


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Faultprwention 52Changingthebulbs 53Maintenance: ellEl-Min9and oiling 54

M:aintenan,ce & Trouble-Shootlnq

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Faulit preventionIf the sew ing m achine does! ,1;Ot sew p r; oper ly . lit i s u sua ll ydue to i1co rrec t qpera! liOn. .

Check whether: The Upper a nd l:Ow erthreads are correctlythreaded. The noodle has b een cor-rectly inSlerted, W ith th e f la tside of the shank 1 0 the rear. The no odle s iz e is c orre ct.S ee needlealnd threadtable The m achi!ne ,is dean.Brush out any remnants ofthr,ead_ i n ' 1 e hook race is cleaJlIandloi:led_ Any remnams of ~hreadare j , rapped betweenlhethread tensioni ng discs andben,eat ih the bobbin casespring.

5 2

Upper thread brea,k$ M,achiine fa:ll8 to run" orwilli only r l i . ! l l 1 l slowly PI U19is no t properlyinserted. Power SV


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Chang i ng the bu lib s

w~( ' " I I nstruct:ioliiJl.&1

IFMlng thit bulbsIDI.~nnect.the lmachlnef romtQ. nUll. ,.. by remQ"b'ing thelmlln. eltll,fromth . s oc :!k eUT h e r e a r e 2 ! I O W \ J O J t a g e 6v o W . 4 w . a 1 i ! t M J l b s pr:ovided,The firslls located l i n , front toth,e:len Of th e pres~r feot,thiaother behind, to thei n i g h t .

To,change th e I ro n! bu~b:{fi.g. 1 ).Usin g s pe ola ito ol A , p re ssth e bullb upwards. twist tollie lefitand wi lhdraw,

To chang e the !'tlllr builb:Rem ov e d ltiu se rB . T he b ulbc an ~ he n b e remo ve d ~ nth asam e ~ as the tr on t b u l b,

Place ~henew ' ib u~bontih:aspec ia l tool ] (fig. 3).Ilooe.rt~ntothe holder wilhthe bll'lb, ~rass IU~S. andtwist to th e ri~hl to th e stop.For l li lerear oolb. rentditrlu$er a


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Main ten an ce : G lea nin g an d Omng

. . . ,

....2

If lhe' m achiM is stored in aOQidl room, it sho uld !b ebrought 10 a warm roomapp rOX i ff i6 it ely o ne hour be -lo re u sa , to restol 'ethe oil il 1thabeariil lgslo anu id s ta te .

ClellnllngWhen sewing, pieces. of~h~eadwinc oIlo ot u nd er th es ti tch p la te B Inda round' t hanook . T hese rernnsnts mus tbe rem oved at reg ular .inter'va l i s : . D isc on ne ctltie m a ch in e! lrom the m ~ ns by removi,ng1M m a in s c ab le from thef lookeU Rem ove the p re sse r fo otandlneed1& Open th e hi,ngedlironlO O Je r o n th e flre ea wm _ Lower Ihe feeddogl. setk t1 .o p 1 8 to positton m u m _Us ing Ibolh~h :umbsu'press.the stitch p la ie up and back~f lg_1); Clean the fead-d'og and llu nd ersid e of the stitch p1at~ 1 0 ,refitthe s t i l r Z l h p la ta o nthe fre e a rm u [ inser t thes tit ch p la te f ro m lhE i r9a(;! p u s h fo rw a r d u n tm itengages ( f ig . .2) .

'lQ , o i l the 1 1 0 0 1 ( ' Apply1~2d rops 'C i fO i l aRe ;J~4 hOurs ' O O 1 ! I 4 n g .

OfsconneallMmachinetram jh e ma in s by removiingUne m:eins oob le f rom the:s o d k e l : ! 1 lake out ~hebobbin case,see pafde12 . . WMh thethlllm b of t he l et tMM ! , p re ss the l owe r r~ e s se le ver to th e r e f ! {~ig.3). IFoid dow n the sem i.s pher iUJ locki n. g s tr apw it l" it he b lac !k .hook rape cover. Takeoulth.e hook. C lean the tap and bottomof the ! hook raca witih a1 O n . i $ h a li ld co tton clo!h.N ev e r u s e 6! o o r e w (: lr i\ .le r o rs ds so rs e le . ,t o re01O\!'eretnl1lantsof thread. I Jg t) 1! y o il the hoo' ki race"1~2 d rop s o f O i lf jf ig A ) .I insert the n o o k . ~ fn:ecessary. tu rn w ith th e hand-wl"leel unlili ~h:ehook d'rliveris o n t he l ef t (fig ..5) . Close' th e b'ack hookraceCOYer andk:d~ingstrap>The pawl tmus.tengage. Cheek by ruming 1 hehar: ldwheel. ~ !" !sert the b ob bln case.


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Whe:n camyl rig outmalnlanj:nee (cl&aning oro ll ll ng ) , wheneve r w ork Isl in r tem . lp ted 'o r f lln ll6hed lIIlndalso lor chang l ng .bulb" t hle .s ew ln g ma ch in eshould be dfl tconn&CtedfirQmthe mains by remo....ng , tile matn. cablefrom the lOCket.

lmportarn l

SEV. VDE (O ff ic ia l Tes ti ngAuthQri ties in SW, il2E:r land1a nd West Germal ' ly) .l he fd ll ow in g saf ety p :r ec au n on s m u st b e o bs erv ed : l i n tE lm o v i n g needle iisas ou rce o f d an ge r (riS ik ofin rju ry to th e lin g er s} " A lY l'a ry s.t he re fo re , keep your eyesonlhe 8ilee inwhtch you arewortglligi. Any ope ra tio tl !Sper -f ormed w i ll hi n t he needle! i' Ii "I o O V e m e n t a r e a , '8:,g.chrEin g in g a needle o rpsesser foot, miJstalowaysbe ca f\~ed : 0 0 1w i th themaclhif i l swilchea of t{ power sw i! ch a t 10::1).The sam e applies to Ie m ovi ng and replaci li " \glheIrrwer ~h'Feadoobbilil.

Re p! !I il l" $to th e e le c-t ron lCB,w l , th par tlcu la l i'reference, to 01:lllngll1'l9ttte ,eo!1neel:lng IGild,should be carried QWonly by8BERN INAdealer.

5 5


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bernina guide

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