bes 3 residential elevator installation manual · side cab mounting bracket (c7) towards the center...

BES 3 RESIDENTIAL ELEVATOR INSTALLATION MANUAL

OCTOBER 2019

Introduction:

Cambridge Elevating (CE) strives to make a quality product your customers want in their home and an elevator you can install easily and performs beyond expectations for many years.

With those goals in mind, we have produced this manual and other support documents so every technician has the installation, service and technical information required to be fully informed.

As with any multipart assembly there is always more than one way to accomplish the process. Site conditions can often dictate a change in tactics and a modification of the standard procedure. This manual presents the most straight forward procedures that will work in the widest range of situations.

This manual was written with the support of CE staff but more importantly years of feedback from technicians like you. We value and require your feedback to help make this manual as complete and user-friendly as possible. Whether you have a better method for a particular task, or advice to new installers, find something missing, have a suggestion for a better drawing or find an error, please provide to the technical support department via phone, email, or text anytime.

Please use this manual in conjunction with the residential Service Manual, the residential Technical Documents and residential Technical eBulletins emailed regularly. If you require any of these or are not receiving the eBulletins please contact your supervisor or CE technical support department.

Make sure to note the version and date on the front page and check with CE’s technical support whether you have the latest version as this manual will be updated regularly.

Thank you very much,

Sean Moffitt Technical Support Manager Cambridge Elevating1-800-265-3579 ext. 19 [email protected]

RESIDENTIAL ELEVATOR INSTALLATION MANUAL � CAMBRIDGEELEVATING.COM �1

mailto:[email protected]

Installation steps

Objective: Getting prepared

1. Tool list

2. Materials not supplied

3. Review shipment

a. Residential assemblies, components and hardware

b. Overview of rail wall

c. Overview of rail wall with cab

d. Hydraulic power unit

e. Sample packing list

4. Preparation

a. Jack post top detail

b. Rail clip detail

c. Cab to sling mount assembly detail

d. Line rupture valve assembly detail

e. Coded strip, rail clip assembly detail

f. Limit switch cam, rail clip assembly detail

5. Pre-install site check

Objective: Running sling

6. Move material into the building

7. Mark the rail bracket (M3-A) centerline on the rail wall

a. Sample layout drawing

b. Sample elevation drawing

8. Options for mounting rail bracket (M3-A)

9. Working in and around an open hoistway

10. Rail bracket (M3) installation

a. Rail wall detail, rail clips and jack post

11. Baseplate (M8)

12. Left side rails

a. Rail wall detail, rail clip and jack post

b. Rail wall detail, splice plates


13. Jack post

a. Jack post detail

14. Cylinder

a. Cylinder detail

15. Sling

a. Sling with roller detail

16. Install the sling cross piece (M1-B)

a. Sling

17. Right side rails

18. Line rupture valve and hydraulic lines

a. Hydraulic detail diagram

19. Hydraulic drain line (H3)

a. Hydraulic drain line detail

20. Sheave (M5)

a. Sheave detail

21. Connect the wire ropes to the sling

a. Sling roping detail

22. Install the controller and hydraulic power unit

a. Controller and hydraulic power unit detail

23. Bleeding the cylinder

a. Cylinder bleed screw detail

24. Pre-stroking the cylinder

a. Pre-stroke detail

25. Lift the sling to floor level

26. Connecting the ropes to the jack post

a. Jack post roping detail

27. Repositioning the sling extensions

a. Sling extension detail

28. Adjusting the sling rollers

a. Sling roller detail


29. Cab floor (C1)

a. Cab floor detail

30. Adjusting the safeties/brakes

a. Adjusting the safeties/brakes detail diagram

31. Testing the safeties

a. Adjusting the safeties/brakes

32. Remove scaffolding

33. Testing/checking the travel of the sling (M1)

Objective: Cab and electrical

34. Assemble cab (C0)

a. Cab inline

b. Cab through

c. Cab 90 degree

35. Attach the cab (C0) to the sling (M1)

a. Cab to sling attachment

36. Hoistway wiring (E11 and E7)

a. Hoistway wiring detail

37. Installing the cartop electrical

a. Cartop electrical

b. Slack rope switch detail

38. Install the Cab Operating Panel (COP) (E3)

a. COP

39. Coded strips (M21, M22) and limit switch cams (M32)

a. Sensor head

b. Coded strips

c. Coded strips and limit switch cams

d. Coded strips and limit switch cams relationship

40. Travel cable (E5)

a. Travel cable detail diagram

41. Running from the cartop (E1) in service mode

a. Control panel diagram


42. 1. Landing door with locks (E10)

a. Landing doors with interlock

42. 2. Victory landing door contacts (Cambrian model)

a. Victory (Cambrian) landing door contacts

Objective: Cab gate

43. Elmira Manual folding car gate

a. Top track and light curtain detail

b. Folding gate and switch diagram

44. Elmira with Woodfold gate (C9) and Porta door operator (E9)

a. Porta operator placement

b. Porta operator alignment

c. Porta operator gate arm

45. OLS (Victory) gate operator (E9)

a. 2 speed operator with 78 ¾-inch doors on an 84-inch cab

b. 3 speed operator with 78 ¾-inch doors on an 84-inch cab

c. 2 speed operator with doors the same height as the cab

d. 3 speed operator with doors the same height as the cab

e. 2 speed operator with 78 ¾-inch doors on a 96-inch cab

f. 3 speed operator with 78 ¾-inch doors on a 96-inch cab

g. 2 speed operator with 84-inch doors on a 96-inch cab

h. 3 speed operator with 84-inch doors on a 96-inch cab

i. OLS (Victory) gate operator / cab configuration chart

j. Gate operator alignment

k. Door panel installation detail

Objective: Landing doors

46. 1. Cambrian - 2 speed landing door assembly (M10)

46. 2. Cambrian - 3 speed landing door assembly (M10)

47. Bi-fold gate / gate operator

Objective: Finishing touches and testing

48. Review, settings and initial start-up


49. Handrail(s)

a. Handrail detail

50. Final cleaning

51. Testing and adjusting up movement

a. Blain valve up adjustments

52. Testing and adjusting down movement

a. Blain valve down adjustments

53. Setup and adjustment of the Cambridge Elevating hydraulic power unit

a. Blain valve adjustments

54. Testing the low-pressure switch and the slack rope switch

a. Slack rope switch detail

55. Setting and testing the line rupture valve (H5)

a. Line rupture valve detail

56. Setting and testing the pressure relief valve (PRV)

a. Blain valve detail

57. Testing the telephone

a. Telephone line detail

58. Power fail test

59. Final inspection

60. Customer training

61. Glossary

Options:

Note: the following options will affect your install. Detailed procedures will be added in future additions of this manual. Contact technical support if you have one of these options and instructions were not included with your project.

A. Special slings

B. Block or concrete rail walls

C. Hard stop

D. 2-piece cylinders

E. ITI cylinders


F. Flow control valve

G. Deep pit buffer channel

H. Buffer pads

I. Buffer springs

J. Seismic option

K. MRL

L. Hybrid

M. Glass cab

N. Glass door panels

O. 10HP power unit

P. 3 phase power unit

Q. 120AC lighting

R. Travel cable junction boxes

S. Special call stations

T. Special COP options

U. Bi-fold gate operator

V. Landing swing door operator interface

W. 3rd party control and feedback

X. Custom height cabs (other than 84 and 96 inch)

Y. Keypads and key switches


1 – Tool list • Measuring tape 25ft or more• Final layout and elevation diagrams • Flashlight• Pen and notepad

• Chalk line

• Black sharpie

• 18 to 20V Battery powered impact wrench

• Sockets for aboveo 15/16th inch

o ½ inch

o 9/16th inch

o 10mm

o 18mm

o 4-inch socket extension

• Battery powered drill

• Drill bits for aboveo 3/8th inch

o ½ inch

o 5/8th inch

• Screwdriverso 1/16-inch slot 6 inches long o “stubby” No. 2 Philips

screwdriver (star)

• Battery powered screwdriver

• Bits for a power screwdrivero #2 Philips (star) o #2 Robertson (square)

• Wrenches o (2) adjustable wrench 12

inches

o 10mm

o 13mm

o 17mm

o 7/16th inch

o ½ inch

o 9/16th inch

o ¾ inch (2)

o 7/8th inch

o 15/16th inch

o 1 inch

o 1 1/16 inch

o 1 1/8 inch

o 1 ¼ inch

o 1 5/16th inch (for ¾ inch ball valve)

o 1 3/8th inch (for ¾ inch hydraulic fittings)


• Allen keyso 2mm

o 4mm

o 5mm

o 6mm

o 8mm

• Bullet level

• 4 to 5 foot level

• Plumb bob with line (two)

• Hammer

• Gloves• Large funnel

• Ladder - 6 foot• Ladder - 10 foot (2)• Pliers (for cotter pins)• Brake setting shim or something else 1/16th of an inch thick and narrow.• Drywall saw or vibrating tool• Saw to cut the aluminum track to length• Angle grinder or saw to cut ropes• Shop type vacuum• Dustpan and brush • Broom• Coal chisel

• Metal shims

• Way to lift rails safely• Rail files• Chain fall or electric hoist (recommended for long heavy cylinders)• Vise grips (2)• Long level• Thread sealant

• Clean lint free cloths

• Dolly for moving the sling

• Applicable personal safety equipment, this may include hard hats, safety glasses, dust masks, safety footwear, safety harnesses and more.


• Warning signs and barriers should be used in front of open doorways and unsecured doors

• Brake setting tool

For concrete or block walls

o Hammer drill

o Appropriate concrete bits

For hard pipe

o Pipe wrenches

o Pipe threader/cutter

For Cambrian Landing doors

o Heavy duty cable crimpers

May be required for shortening lengthening diagnosing or repairing cables and wires.

o Wire cutters

o Wire strippers

o Wire crimpers

o Cat6 cable tester

o Electrical multi-meter


2 – Materials not supplied • Fasteners for rail brackets (M3-A) for non-wood rail wall or through bolting• Appropriate clamps for the hydraulic hose or pipe used• Appropriate clips to attach the ¼ inch plastic line to the wall• 2 liter plastic jug

• 5 pails of type AW32 hydraulic oil

• One inch #8 wood screws (approx. 80 per job)

• Clips to attach wiring to the wall of the shaft • 1 ¾ to 2-inch-long #8 wood screws (3) • Appropriate fasteners to attach the travel cable clamp to rail wall (4 to 6) • ¾ to ⅞-inch long #8 wood screws (to attach travel cable clamp to the cartop) • Two-sided tape • Screws to mount gate operator

• Cable ties (small and large)• Tie wrap anchors • A mild cleaner appropriate for painted and laminated surfaces• A window cleaning spray (if you have glass in the cab)• A stainless-steel cleaner for stainless surfaces• Soft clean cloths or paper towels• Rags• ½ inch all round strapping• Garbage bag• Shim material for base plate and rail brackets (the base plate shims should be metal,

the rail brackets shims should be to local codes and standards)o Various thicknesses from ⅛ to ¾


3 - Review shipment (Refer to sample packing list in back of manual) Check the shipment for any exterior damage and note it to the delivery driver and on the paperwork, before signing for the shipment.

Use the packing slip, the following diagrams and lists to check that the shipment is complete and undamaged within 48 hours of delivery. Report any damage to Cambridge Elevating, that was not noticed when the elevator was delivered, as soon as it is found and any missing parts within a week of delivery. The packing list will tell you what is in each box, in the cab, on each pallet and attached to the sling.

If anything appears to be missing or damaged, contact technical support as soon as possible by calling 1-800-265-3579 or Emailing [email protected].


3A – Residential assemblies, components and hardware

NAME See Section ID

CAB COMPLETE 34, 35 C0

CAB HARDWARE 34 C0-H

CAB WALL RAIL 34 C1

CAB WALL FRONT 34 C2

CAB WALL LEFT 34 C3

CAB WALL BACK 34 C4

CAB CEILING 34 C5

CAB FLOOR 29 C6

CAB FLOOR TOE GUARD 29 C6-B

CAB TO SLING TIE-IN ASSEMBLY 4, 35 C7

CAB TO SLING TIE-IN BRACKET 4, 35 C7-A

CAB TO SLING TIE-IN HARDWARE KIT 4, 35 C7-H

HANDRAIL (HARDWARE INCLUDED) 49 C8

CARTOP BOX 37 E1

MAIN CONTROLLER ASSEMBLY 22 E2

MAIN CONTROLLER 22 E2-A

MAIN CONTROLLER TO TANK BRACKET 22 E2-B

MAIN CONTROLLER TO TANK HARWARE 22 E2-BH

COP 38 E3

COP MOUNTING HARDWARE (INSIDE COP) 38 E3-H

CAB LIGHTS 37 E4

TRAVEL CABLE ASSY 40 E5

TRAVEL CABLE 40 E5-A

TRAVEL CABLE CLIPS 40 E5-B

CALL STATION 36 E6

CALL STATION BOX 36 E6-A

PIT E-STOP 36 E7

SLACK ROPE SWITCH ASSEMBLY 37 E8

SLACK ROPE SWITCH 37 E8-A

SLACK ROPE CABLE 37 E8-B


NAME See Section ID

GATE OPERATOR 44, 45 E9

GATE OPERATOR MOUNTING BRACKET 45 E9-A

GATE OPERATOR CABLE 45 E9-B

GATE OPERATOR HARDWARE KIT 45 E9-H

LANDING DOOR INTERLOCK 36, 42 E10

HOISTWAY CABLES 36 E11

LIGHT CURTAIN (LIGHT SCREEN) 34, 43, 44, 45 E12

SENSOR HEAD ASSEMBLY RESIDENTIAL 37 E23

ELECTRICAL DOCUMENTS AND DRAWINGS 22, 36 E34

FINAL HOISTWAY DETAILS 5 E35

PACKING LIST 3 E37

HYDRAULIC CYLINDER ASSEMBLY 14, 23, 24 H1

HYDRAULIC CYLINDER (INC BOLT AND FITTING) 14,19, 20 H1-A

HYDRAULIC POWER UNIT 22, 33, 51, 52, 53 H2

DRAIN LINE 19 H3

HOSE AND FITTING ASSEMBLY 4 H4

HYDRAULIC HOSE 4, 18 H4-A

HYDRAULIC FITTINGS 4, 18 H4-B

LINE RUPTURE VALVE 4, 18 H5

SLING ASSEMBLY 15, 25, 28, 29, 30, 33 M1

SLING MAIN 15 M1-A

SLING CROSS PIECE 16 M1-B

SLING CROSS PIECE HARDWARE 16 M1-BH

SLING EXTENSIONS 27 M1-C

SLING EXTENSION HARDWARE 27 M1-CH

RAIL ASSEMBLY 12, 17 M2

FULL RAIL 12, 17 M2-A

CUT RAIL 12, 17 M2-B

SPLICE PLATE 12, 17 M2-C

SPLICE PLATE HARDWARE KIT 12, 17 M2-H


NAME See Section ID

RAIL BRACKET (M3-A) ASSEMBLY 10, M3

RAIL BRACKET (M3-A) 10, M3-A

RAIL CLIP 4, 12, 17, 39 M3-C

RAIL CLIP HARDWARE 4, 12, 17, 39 M3-CH

RAIL BRACKET (M3-A) MOUNTING KIT 10, M3-H

RAIL BRACKET (M3-A) JACK POST AND CYL ASSEMBLY 10 M4

RAIL BRACKET (M3-A) JACK POST AND CYLINDER 10 M4-A

CYLINDER U-BOLT (HARDWARE INCLUDED) 14 M4-B

SHEAVE ASSEMBLY 20 M5

ROPE ASSEMBLY 21, 26 M6

ROPES 21, 26 M6-A

ROPE CLIPS 21, 26 M6-B

SHACKLES 26 M6-C

SHACKLE HEARTS 21, 26 M6-D

JACK POST ASSEMBLY 13 M7

JACK POST TOPPER 4, 13 M7-A

JACK POST U-BOLT (SQUARE)(HARDWARE INC) 13 M7-B

JACK POST 13 M7-C

SPACER THIN 13, 14 M7-D

SPACER THICK 13 M7-E

BASE PLATE 11 M8

CAR GATE ASSEMBLY 43, 44 M9

CAR GATE SILL 43, 44 M9-A

CAR GATE PANEL 43, 44 M9-B

LANDING DOOR 46 M10

LANDING DOOR SILL 46 M10-A

LANDING DOOR PANEL 46 M10-B

LANDING DOOR FRAME 46 M10-C

PIT BUFFER PADS M11

HARD STOP M12

HARD STOP HARDWARE KIT M12-H

DEEP PIT BUFFER CHANEL M13


NAME See section ID

DEEP PIT BUFFER CHANEL HARDWARE KIT M13-H

REGULAR CODED STRIP 4, 39 M21

TOP FLOOR CODED STRIP 4, 39 M22

LIMIT SWITCH ASSEMBLY 37 M31

LIMIT SWITCH CAM ASSEMBLY 4 M32

LIMIT SWITCH CAM 4 M32-A


3B - Overview of rail wall

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3C - Overview of rail wall with cab

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3D – Hydraulic power unit

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3E – Sample packing list - page 1

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3E – Sample packing list – page 2

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4 – Preparation that can be done before going to site or on-site Considerations:

The following tasks can be done in the shop or at the site prior to starting the installation

• Clean the rails

• Preassemble the jack post top (M7-A)

• Preassemble the rail clips (M3-C)

• Preassembling cartop to sling tie-in assembly (C7)

• Preassembling rail clips (M3-C) to the coded strips (M21, M22) and limit switch cams (M32)

• Preassembling the line rupture valve (H5)

Material required:

• Jack post top (M7-A)

• 2 wedge sockets (Shackles) (M6-C)

• Rail clips (M3-C)

• Cartop sling mounting brackets (C7-A)

• Sling mounting kit (C7-H)

• Top limit switch cam (M32)

• Bottom limit switch cam (M32)

• Coded strips (M21 and M22)

• Line rupture valve (H5)

• ¾ to ½ fitting (from kit H4-B)

• ½ coupling (from kit H4-B)

• Longest hose (H4-A)

Tools recommended:

• For cleaning the rails

o Rags

o Garbage bag

• Pre-assembling the jack post top (M7-A)o ¾ inch wrenches (for shackles)o Pliers (for cotter pins)

• For preassembling the line rupture valve (H5)


o Vise

o Thread sealant

o For ½ inch fittings

• 1-inch wrench

• 1 ¼ inch wrench

• 1 1/8th inch wrench


• Adjustable wrench

o For ¾ inch fittings

• 1 ¼ inch wrench



• Adjustable wrench

o Clean lint free clothes

o 6mm Allen key

o 4mm Allen key

Procedures:

• Cleaning the rails (M2)

o Remove the protective plastic.

o Wipe down the rails with a clean rag to remove the residue. In some cases, mineral spirits may be required.

o Check the rails for any damage to the machined surfaces, tongues, grooves, and resolve any issues.

• Preassembling jack post top (M7-A)

o Remove the cotter pins from the two shackles (M6-C)

o Remove the nuts and washers (M6-H)

o Insert the threaded rods of the shackles into the holes in the jack post top (refer to diagram 27a)

o Install the following in order, large flat washer, small flat washer, and two nuts (M6-H)

o Run the nuts halfway up the threaded rods.

o Lock the two nuts together

o Install the cotter pin into each shackle and bend it over


• Preassembling rail clips (M3-C)

o Install the bolt (M3-CH) through the clip (M3-C) refer to diagram 12a

o Install onto the bolt in the following order, washer, lock washer, nut (M3-CH). Refer to diagram 12a

• Preassembling cartop to sling tie-in assembly (C7)

o Assemble the nuts and washers onto the threaded rod (C7-H) and through the cab attachment bracket (C7-A) (as per diagram 35a)

• Preassembling rail clips (M3-C) to the coded strips (M21 AND M22) and limit switch cams (M32)

o Install 2 rail clips (M3-C) on each coded strip. Refer to diagram 12x

• Preassembling the line rupture valve (H5)

• Note: It is very important to keep all parts of the hydraulic system clean. Any debris that gets into a hose or connector will find its way into the hydraulic valve and likely cause problems with the valve.

o Place the line rupture valve in a vise

o Refer to diagram 18a

o For ½ inch hose (H4)

• Using a thread sealant, connect the 1 to ½ inch reducing flitting into the line rupture valve

• Using thread sealant, install the ½ inch coupling into the reducing fitting

• Using thread sealant, connect the longest hose to the ½ inch coupling

o For ¾ inch hose (H4-A)

• Using a thread sealant, connect the 1-inch to ¾-inch reducing fitting (H4-B) into the line rupture valve (H4-A)

• Using thread sealant, install the 3/4-inch coupling into the reducing fitting (H4-B)

• Using thread sealant, connect the longest hose (H4-A) to the ½ inch coupling (H4-B)


4A – Jack post top detail

� M7-A

4B – Rail clip detail

� M3-A/B


4C – Cab to sling mount assembly detail

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4D – Line rupture valve assembly detail

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4E – Coded strip, rail clip assembly detail

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4F – Limit switch cam, rail clip assembly detail

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5- Pre-install site check Considerations:

The procedure below references your final elevation drawings that were shipped with the elevator. Please see the sample layout and elevation diagrams 7a and 7b for directions on where on the final drawings you will find the required information.

NOTE: Often there are several versions of the elevation and layout drawings made during the order process. The information on these preliminary drawings will likely be incorrect. If you are unsure that you have the latest version, contact technical support for assistance.

It is recommended that at least 4 weeks prior to the installation (and when you arrive to start the installation) that the site is checked for the following (in order to verify that the shaft dimensions and everything else shown on the final diagrams are correct).

If the travel cable hoistway cable and hydraulic hose are to be ran inside conduit or sleeves or walls, note the following.

• The travel cable is nearly 3 inches wide and will not pull through tight bends or multiple bends very well

• 4 inch or larger conduit may be required for the travel cable depending on the number and degree of bends.

• Alternatively, we may be able to provide a round cable to get to the hoistway and then transition to the flat travel cable but this will entail a higher cost.

• The Cat5 cables will not take excess strain and hard handling. We suggest you pull extra Cat5 cables.

Material required:

• Final elevation and layout diagrams

Tools recommended:

• Plumb bob with line

• Measuring tape 25ft

• Final layout and elevation diagrams

• Flashlight• Pen and notepad

Procedure:

Using the final approved site diagrams (refer to diagram 7A and 7B for sample layout and elevation diagram), confirm the following

• The pit depth is correct, sample elevation diagram 7B note: A.

• The total travel distance is correct, sample elevation diagram 7B note: B.


• The overhead is correct, refer to sample elevation diagram 7B note: C.

• The shaft width is correct at each landing, refer to sample layout diagram 7A note: A.

• The shaft depth is correct at each landing, refer to sample layout diagram 7A note: B

• The shaft walls are plumb and true

• The rail wall construction is per specifications, refer to sample layout diagram 7A note: C

• The location of the controller and power unit is as per plan, refer to sample layout diagram 7A note: D

• The 220 and 120 power plugs are or will be installed within 3 feet of the right side of the main controller’s location, diagram 23A Controller and HPU detail

• The rough door openings at each landing are inline and the correct size and framed with 2X4 lumber.

• If the landing door wall is made with 2x6 lumber, the door will either need to be inset or a door baffle will need to be installed.

• Swing door openings should typically be 2 inches wider then the door width and 2 ½ inches higher.

o Note: some door frames could require wider rough openings. • For heritage models the landing door width should match the cab door width. Example

a 32 inch cab door should have a 32 inch landing door. • Cambrian landing openings should be at least 46 inches wide but we recommend

leaving the full width of the shaft open and framing up to the landing frame after it is installed.

• Cambrian landing headers should be

o 90 inches high for 2000mm high doors

o 96 inches high for 2150mm fire rated doors

o 106 inches high for 2400 mm high doors

• The pit is or will be free from debris and liquids, clean and level.

• Establish a path for the cylinder and sling to get into the hoistway

o Note: In some cases, the cylinder may need to be placed in or near the shaft at an earlier stage of construction or craned into place.

Contact your sales engineer or technical support (1-800-265-3579) at Cambridge Elevating as soon as possible if any of the measurements or details vary from the final diagrams. Have the exact measurements ready when you call and we will check to see if any of the site differences will affect your installation.


6 – Move material into the building Considerations

• It may be possible to keep material like the cab and sling in the transport vehicle until they are required, or everything may need to be unpacked into a staging area, or directly to where it will be needed.

• This procedure will assume you are bringing things to each area in stages.

• In some cases, the cylinder may need to be hoisted into the shaft before the roof is on the building

• Materials and tools required for a running sling should be brought to the floor where they will be required.

• Consult the elevation diagram to determine what material would be required at each landing. Floor height, short rail location, hydraulic power unit, and the controller location will affect how the material is distributed.

• Hydraulic lines may be 1 or more hoses, hard pipe or a combination of the two. This procedure will assume the project is using 1 or 2 hydraulic lines.

• In many cases, it is better to lower rails down from the floor above

Materials required• Rails (all) (M2-A, M2-B)

• Rail brackets (M3-A) (all) (M3-A)

• Jack post rail bracket (M3-A) (1) (M4-A)

• Cylinder rail bracket (M3-A) (1) (M4-A)

• Spacers for jack post and cylinder bracket (if required) (M7D and M7E)

• Rail bracket (M3-A) mounting hardware (one bag per bracket) (M3-H)

• Rail clips (M3-C) (4 per bracket plus 4 for the baseplate (M8)

• Baseplate (M8) (1) (M8)

• Jack post (1) (M7-C)

• Jack post topper (M7-A) with 2 shackles (M6-C) and shackle hearts (2) (M6-D)• U bolt assembly for cylinder (1) (M4-B)• U bolt assembly for jack post (1) (square) (M7-B)• Hydraulic power unit (H2)• Main controller (E-2)• Electrical parts shipping box

• 5 buckets of hydraulic oil (not included)


• 90-degree hydraulic fitting (H4-B)

Tools required

• None

Procedure

• Bring material to the bottom floor

o 2 full rails (M2-A)

o 2 short rails (M2-B) if required (refer to elevation diagram)

o One jack post bracket (M4-A) (confirm with elevation diagram)

o One regular rail bracket (M3-A) (confirm with elevation diagram)one bag of rail mounting hardware per floor (M3-H)

o 4 rail clips (M3-C) per rail bracket (M3-A) plus 4 rail clips (M3-C) for the base plate

o Jack post (M7-C)

o Jack post topper (M7-C)

o Jack post U bolt assembly (M7-B)

o Line rupture valve with fittings and hose (H5, H4-A, H4-B)

o Installer’s remote pendant (E38)

• Bring material to the machine room location

o Hydraulic power unit (H2)

o Hydraulic hose if there are more then one being used (H4-A)

o 90-degree coupling fitting (H4-B)• Bring material to the Top floor

o 2 full rails (M2-A)

o 2 short rails (M2-B) if required (refer to elevation diagram)

o Two regular rail brackets (M3-A) (confirm with elevation diagram)

o Possibly cylinder bracket and spacer (if 70mm or 80mm cylinder)

o One bag of rail bracket mounting hardware (M3-H) per rail bracket

o 4 rail clips (M3-C) per rail bracket


• Bring materials to mid floors

o 2, 4 or possibly 6 full rails (refer to elevation diagram)

o 1 bag of rail bracket mounting hardware (M3-H) per rail bracket (M3-A)

o 4 rail clips (M3-C) per rail bracket

o Possibly cylinder bracket and spacer (if 70mm or 80mm cylinder)

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7 – Mark the rail bracket (M3-A) centerline on the rail wall Considerations:

• The centerline of the rail system is not typically centered on the rail wall. Please check your final layout diagram to determine your centerline

• The procedure below references your final drawings. The sample layout and elevation diagrams 7a and 7b detail where the information can be found.

Materials required:

• None

Tools required:

• Plumb bob and line

• Chalk line

• Measuring tape 25ft

• Black sharpie and a carpenter’s pencil

Procedure:

• Use the final layout diagram measurement of the rail system centerline to determine and mark the centerline at the top of the shaft, refer to sample layout diagram note: E

• Using a plumb line mark the centerline at the bottom of the shaft• Using a chalk line to mark the centerline up the entire rail wall is recommend as the

plumb line will swing at the slightest touch and you will need to wait for it to stop.


7A – Sample layout drawing


7B – Sample elevation drawing


8 - Options for mounting the rail brackets (M3-A) Considerations:

• How the rail brackets (M3-A) are attached to the rail wall depends on the construction of the rail wall and is up to a structural engineer. Below are our recommendations based on a typical installation.

o Note: If you require large shims to make the rail brackets (M3-A) plumb, you will need to increase the length of the hardware to ensure the strength of the attachment is not lessened

o Note: If your project requires “LULA” type adjustable rail brackets (M3-A), refer to option Y for details on how this will affect your installation.

• The jack post and cylinder brackets should be shimmed so that the rail clips are in the center of the slot on the mounting brackets. This will make sure the cylinder is plumb and true. For all the other rail brackets, the play in the slots will allow you to make up for minor fluctuations in the rail wall without shimming.

Options for fastening rail brackets (M3-A) to the rail wall and typical recommended methods and hardware.

• Wooden rail walls-

o Wood lags: 5-inch-long 3/8th with 3/8th washers• Filled block and concrete rail walls-

o Wedge anchors: 5-inch-long 3/8th wedge anchors with 3/8th hardware

• Hollow block walls-

o We do not recommend hollow block walls.

o Consult the specifications of your structural engineer

Other options

• Though bolting can be used in some cases, consult the building engineer for hardware specifications.

• Unistrut concrete inserts (M3-D) (available from Cambridge Elevating) with strut nuts and bolts (M3-H) : ½ inch strut nuts ½-inch -13 x 1-3/4-inch bolts and washers

• For a structural steel hoistway, the rail brackets (M3-A) can be welded or bolted in place. Consult the building engineer for specifications.


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9 – Working in and around an open hoistway Considerations:

• Local elevator and safety codes and regulations should always be followed when working at height within and near a hoistway.

• Methods for safe access may include: ladders, temporary platforms, metal scaffolding, and hoists. All of the above methods have safety rules, regulations, training and best practices associated with them.

• Safety harnesses should be used and tied off as per applicable regulations

• Warning signs and barriers should be used in front of open doorways and unsecured doors

• Communication with fellow workers is critical to working safely together but especially when they are directly above/below you.

• Applicable personal safety equipment should always be worn and may include: hard hats, safety glasses, dust masks, safety footwear, safety harnesses and more.

• A gap will be required at the rail wall in order to install the rails and brackets. Typically, 12 inches is allowed by code.

Procedure:

Each dealer should establish their own procedures for working in and around elevator shafts based on the above considerations.


10 – Rail bracket (M3) installation Considerations:

The following procedure is for standard residential rail brackets (M3-A). If your project calls for wide, narrow or commercial style rail brackets, refer to Option A.

How the brackets are attached to the wall depends on the wall construction, refer to section 8.

There are 5 holes for mounting on each rail bracket (M3-A). The 2 outer ones on each side must be bolted to the wall. The center hole is provided mainly to assist with mounting and is not required to be bolted or lagged to the wall.

NOTE: the slots in the rail brackets rail clip holes will allow you to compensate for variations in the rail wall of up to ½ inch. However, this adjustability should not be used for the cylinder and jack post brackets. These brackets should be shimmed out if necessary, such that the rail clips are centered in the slots. Failure to do this may result in the cylinder being out of plumb.

Materials required:

• Rail brackets (M3-A)

• Bracket mounting hardware (M3-H), refer to section 8

• Shim material ⅛ to ¾

Tools recommended:

• 18 to 20V Battery powered impact wrench

• ½ inch socket or sockets appropriate for hardware to be used

• Bullet level

• Plumb bob with line (two)

For concrete or block walls• Hammer drill • Appropriate concrete bits• Hammer

Procedure:

• Mark all the rail bracket (M3-A) heights as per the final Elevation diagram, refer to sample elevation diagram notes: F thru P

• Refer to rail bracket (M3-A) detail diagram 10a

• Mount the top rail bracket (M3-A) using the established centerline and the mounting height from the pit floor using one of the fastening methods established in section 8.

• Loosely attach using the center mounting hole only


• Shim the rail bracket (M3-A) so that it is plumb and level

Note: be careful not to deform the rail bracket (M3-A) as it will change the distance between the guide rails (M2). Use shim material (not provided) as required to prevent this. Refer to rail bracket (M3-A) detail diagram note: A

• Install the remaining fasteners (M3-H) and tighten each one.

• The distance between the ends of the rail brackets’ (M3-A) arms should be between 32 ½ and 32 ⅝ inches, refer to rail bracket (M3-A) detail diagram 10a note: B

• Drop a plumb line from each of the arms of the top rail bracket (M3-A)

Note: check the final elevation diagram to see if the bottom rail bracket (M3-A) is a jack post bracket (M4-A), refer to sample elevation diagram 7b note: F and G for an example.

• Measure the distance from each plumb line to the wall at the bottom rail bracket (M3-A) location

o The distance should be 7 ⅛ inch plus or minus ¼ inch

▪ If the distance is less then 6 ⅞ inches than the top bracket will need to be loosened and have shims installed

▪ The shim required would be 7 ⅛ minus the distance measured, within a ¼ of an inch

▪ If the distance is more then 7 ⅜ inches than the bottom bracket will need to be shimmed out

▪ The shim required would be the distance measured minus 7 ⅛ inches, within ¼ of an inch

• Check the hoistway diagrams to see if the bottom rail bracket (M3-A) is a jack post bracket (M4-A)

• Install the bottom rail bracket (M3-A) in the same fashion as the top bracket shimming out to meet the plumb lines and levelling, refer to the rail bracket (M3-A) detail diagram 10a note: B

• Check that the distance between the arms of the rail bracket (M3-A) is between 32 ½ and 32 ⅝ inches, change the shims as required to maintain this measurement. refer to rail bracket (M3-A) detail diagram 10a note: B

• Tie the plumb lines off to the outer slots on the end of each rail bracket (M3-A), making sure the string is tight and 7 ⅛ inch from the wall. Refer to the rail wall detail diagram 10a note: D

• Check the plans to find the position of the cylinder bracket (M4) (diagram 7A Note F)• Install the remaining rail brackets (M3) using the above plumb line to assist in making

them plumb, level and true.

o The string should be within a ¼ inch of the center of the outer slot


o Shim as necessary to achieve this.

• Remove the plumb lines

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10A – Rail wall detail, rail clips and jack post

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11 - Baseplate (M8) Considerations:

• The pit floor must be dry and free of debris

• Consult rail wall detail diagram 12a note: E

Materials required:• Baseplate (M8)

Tools recommended:

• Broom

• Coal chisel

• Hammer

• Metal shims

• Short level

Procedure:

• Sweep the area directly beneath the rail wall, where the baseplate (M8) will be placed• Remove any lumps so that the area where the baseplate (M8) will sit is flat and smooth.• Set the cylinder baseplate (M8) directly under the bottom rail bracket (M3-A), refer to rail

wall detail diagram 12a note: E• Check that the baseplate (M8) is sitting level side to side and front to back and use

metal shims (not provided) if necessary, to make it level.

Note: Wooden shims can be compressed by the weight of the rail wall, therefore if shims are required metal ones are recommended

• Do not bolt it in place yet, that can be done after the cylinder and second rail is in place.


12 – Left side rails Considerations:

• Refer to the rail wall detail diagram 10a, the sample elevation diagram 7b and the final elevation diagram for your project.

• The right side of the rail wall is the side on your right when you are standing in the pit facing the rail wall.

• The rails will be installed from the bottom up.

• Consult your final elevation diagram for the location of any short (not full length) rails. They can be at the bottom, top or both, refer to Your elevation diagram 7b note: Q.

• One end of the full-length rails has a tongue and the other has a groove. This allows them to lock together as they run up the length of the shaft.

• The tongue (male) end should always face up, refer to rail wall detail diagram 10a note: F.

• The protective coating can be removed from the rails before they are installed.

• As the rails are being fitted together, check that the ends are undamaged and free of dirt and debris as it will keep the rails from fitting together tightly.

Materials required:• Half of the rails (M2)• Almost half of the rail clips (M3-C) (some are used later to mount parts of the

positioning system)• Almost half of the rail clip hardware (M3-CH)• Half of the splice plates (M2-C)

• Half of the splice plate hardware (M2-CH)

Tools recommended:

• 18V to 20V battery powered impact wrench

• Sockets appropriate for hardware, typically 18mm

• Wrenches appropriate for hardware, typically 18mm

• Rags

• Way to lift rails safely

• Gloves

• Rail files• Long level


Procedure:

• Attach the first rail (M2) to the baseplate (M8) with the rail clips (M3-C) hand tight

• If the first rail is a full rail (M2-A) or a cut rail (M2-B) long enough that it passes a rail bracket (M3-A), refer to the rail wall detail diagram note: A

o Attach the rail (M2) to the rail bracket (M3-A) with rail clips (M3-C), hand tight.

o Measure the distance from the center of the rail face to the front of the rail bracket (M3-A)

o Adjust the above measurement to 5 inches, refer to the rail wall detail diagram 10a note: B

o Tighten the rail clips (M3-C) at the rail bracket (M3-A)

o Plumb the rail (M2) using the 5-foot level placed on the front and the side of the rail

o Shift the baseplate (M8) if necessary, so that the rail (M2) is plumb and true

o Tighten the rail clips (M3-C) at the baseplate (M8), and confirm the rail is still plumb in both directions

o Repeat the above steps for any other brackets the first rail passes

• If the first rail did not pass a rail bracket (M3-A)

o Attach the first rail (M2) to the second with a splice plate (M2-C) and hardware (M2-CH), refer to rail wall detail diagram 10a note: F

o Use the long level on the front and side faces of the rail to ensure it is true

o Tighten the splice plate hardware (M2-CH) , and confirm the rail is till true

o Attach the second rail to the first rail bracket (M3-A) with rail clips (M3-C), hand tight, refer to rail wall detail diagram 10a note: G

o Measure the distance from the center of the rail face to the front of the rail bracket (M3-A)

o Adjust the above measurement to 5 inches, refer to rail wall detail diagram 10a note: B

o Tighten the rail clips (M3-C) at the bracket

o Check that the rail is running true by checking for plumb on each face of the rail using the long level

o Shift the baseplate (M8) if necessary, so that the rail is plumb and true

o Tighten the rail clips (M3-C) at the baseplate (M8)

o Repeat the above steps for any other brackets the rails pass


• Attach a splice plate (M2-C) to the top of the last rail

Note: splice plates can be put on after the rails are clipped in place as long as the rails are properly lined up.

• Attach the next rail to the previous

• Attach the rail to the rail brackets (M3-A) with rail clips (M3-C) as you pass each one

• Level the rail and check the 5-inch distance from the rail center to the rail bracket (M3-A) is maintained

• Repeat the above 3 steps until you reach the top of the shaft• Once you reach the top

o Go back over the entire rail with the long level and make fine adjustments if necessary.

o Go back over the rail checking for any rough edges at the splices or damage.

o File as necessary so that the three rail faces are clean and smooth from the bottom to the top. This will ensure a smooth ride later.

Note: Do not install the right-side rails at this time. The sling will need to be installed first.


12A – Rail wall detail, rail clips and jack post

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12B – Rail wall detail, splice plates

13 – Jack post Considerations:

• Consult the cylinder jack post (M7) detail diagram 13a

• Confirm the jack post length is correct as per the final elevation diagram, refer to sample elevation diagram 7b note: R for location

• The below procedure covers projects that are using 70, 80 and 90mm oil lift cylinders (H1). For 100mm cylinders and ITI cylinders, please refer to option E. Refer to sample packing list 1a and 1b note: A for the location of cylinder information

Parts required:• Jack post (M7)• Jack post top (M7-A)• Square U-bolt with nuts and washers (M7-B)• Thin spacer (approx. ¼ inch thick) (M7-D)• Thick spacer (approx. ½ inch thick) (M7-E)

Tools recommended:

• Wrench 9/16 inch

• Short and long level

Procedure:

• Install the jack post (M7-C) inside the angled pieces on the baseplate (M8), refer to cylinder/ jack post detail diagram 13a note: A

• Place the jack post top onto the jack post, making sure it is oriented correctly, refer to cylinder/ jack post detail diagram 13a note: B

• Hold one thin (¼ in thick) (M7-D) and one thick (M7-E) (½ in thick) spacer between the jack post bracket (M4-A) and the jack post (M7), refer to the jack post/ cylinder detail diagram 13a note: C

• Install the squared U-bolt (M7-B) around the jack post (M7) and through the holes in the spacers (M7-D, M7-E) and attach using the supplied nuts and washers to the rail bracket (M3-A), refer to the jack post/ cylinder detail diagram 13a note: C

• Check that the jack post (M7) is plumb and true using your long level, and the 5 inches from the center of the rail to the rail bracket (M3-A) and from the center of the jack post


(M7) to the rail brackets (M3-A) is maintained.


13A – Jack post detail

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14 – Cylinder Considerations:

Consult the cylinder (H1) and jack post (M7) detail diagram 13A for details.

It may be necessary to temporarily remove some of the scaffolding in order to maneuver the cylinder (H1) into the shaft. In some cases, it may be easier to get the cylinder into the shaft before the scaffolding is built.

Determining the type and size of your cylinder.

• Check your packing list (refer to sample packing list 1a and 1b note: A) or measure the circumference of the cylinder to determine the size of the cylinder.

o Oil lift (OLS) 70 and 80mm = 12.5 inches circumference

o Oil lift (OLS) 90mm = 14.5 inches circumference

OR

• Check the data plate on the cylinder for the part number

o 70mm cylinders part numbers start with 302



• For all other cylinders refer to option D and E

Material required:• Hydraulic cylinder (H1)• Round U-bolt with nuts and washers (M4-B)

• If your cylinder is an OLS 70 or 80mm

o Thin spacer (approx. ¼ inch) (M7-D)

Tools recommended:

• Long level

• Wrench 9/16 inch

• Chain fall or electric hoist (recommended for long heavy cylinders)

Procedure:

• Safely lower the cylinder (H1) into the hoistway with the piston up and place the bottom end onto the jack post top (M7-A). The bolt on the bottom of the cylinder will fit into the hole on the jack post top, refer to cylinder and jack post detail diagram note: B

• It is recommended that you leave the shipping bracket, sheave bolt, and plastic drain elbow in place until you are ready to install the sheave in a later procedure. It may be necessary to cut some of the plastic wrap off the top of the cylinder if it will end up where the U-bolt attaches.


• If the cylinder is a 70 or 80mm OLS one, insert the supplied thin spacer between the cylinder (H1) and the cylinder bracket (M4), refer to the cylinder/jack post detail diagram 14a note: D

• Install the U-bolt (M4-B) around the cylinder, through the spacer (M7-D) if required, and through the bracket on the cylinder bracket (M4), refer to the cylinder/jack post detail diagram 14a note: D

• Attach the U-bolt (M4-B) to the bracket with the supplied nuts and washers, hand tight

• Check that the cylinder (H1) is true (plumb side to side and front to back) using the long level, shift if necessary

• Confirm that the jack post (M7) and cylinder (H1) are still true

• The distance from the rail bracket back plate to the jack post should be 3.5 inches (5 inches to the center)

• Do not tighten the U-bolt (M4-B) at this time, the cylinder (H1) will need to be rotated in order to attach the hydraulic fittings (H4-B) and LRV (H5)


14A – Cylinder detail

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15 – Sling Considerations:

• The cross piece (M1-B) on the front of the sling (M1) and the leg extensions can be removed and reinstalled after the sling is in place if necessary, to get the assembly into the hoistway.

• Warning! The sling is heavy and awkward to move, work safely.

• The sling rollers can touch the floor when the sling is laid down. Therefore, care should be taken to avoid damaging the rollers when maneuvering the sling into the house. The rollers should also be cleaned to remove any debris before the sling is put in place.

Materials required:

• The sling (M1)

• The cross piece (M1-B) (if not already installed)

• Sling cross piece hardware (M1-BH)

Tools recommended:• Gloves• Chain fall, or electric winch• Vise grips (2)

Procedure:• Pull up on the shackles (M6-C) until they are out as far as they can come and lock them

in place with two sets of vice grips. This will disengage the safeties (brakes) and allow the sling to slide onto the rails. Refer to sling detail diagram 15a note: A

• Adjust the main blue eccentric rollers in order to increase the size of the gap for the rail if necessary, refer to sling detail diagram 15a note: B

• Adjust the side rollers to decrease the distance between the left and right-side rollers if necessary, refer to sling detail diagram 15a note: C

• Inspect the rollers for damage and clean if necessary

• The off-white rollers should be pre-adjusted so that the green mark on the shaft is turned so that it is as far away from where the rail will be rail as possible, refer to sling detail diagram 15a note: D

• Lower the sling into the pit, using the chain fall if required

• Engage the sling onto the right-hand rail

• Do not remove the vise grips yet


15A - Sling with roller detail

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16 - Install the sling cross piece (M1-B) Considerations:

• The sling cross piece (M1-B) may be shipped installed, uninstalled or removed in order to get the sling into the hoistway. If it is still installed you can skip this procedure

• The sling cross piece (M1-B) is installed across the end of the sling’s legs

• The 4 angled pieces it attaches too are attached to the sling legs with bolts that are only hand tight. This is because you will need to shift them to line up all the bolts with their holes.

Materials required:

• Sling cross piece (M1-B)

• Sling hardware kit included (M1-BH)

Tools recommended:

• ¾ inch wrenches (2) • ¾ inch socket with driver

Procedure:• Set the sling extension (M1-C) at the front of the sling legs and align• Use bolts and washers in the sling hardware kit (M1-BH) to attach the cross piece (M1-

B)

• Check that the top of the cross piece (M1-B) and the top surface of the sling legs are flush. Adjust the position of the cross piece until it is flush.

• Tighten all the bolts that hold the cross piece (M1-B) to the brackets and the brackets to the legs (20 bolts in total)


16A - Sling


17 – Right side rail Considerations:

• Refer to the rail wall detail diagram 10a, the latest elevation diagram and the sling detail diagram 15a for details on the following procedure.

• You should have enough rail clips (M3-C) and hardware (M3-CH) left over to install the limit switch cams (M32) and coded strips (M21, M22) (part of the positioning system) later in the install. You will need four plus two for each stop.

Materials required:

• The remaining rails (M2-A, M2-B)

• The remaining splice plates (M2-C)

• The remaining splice plates hardware (M2-H)

• Most of the rail clips (M3-C)

• Most of the rail clip hardware (M3-CH)

Tools recommended:

• 18 to 20V Battery powered impact wrench • ¾ inch socket• ¾ inch wrenches • Rags• Gloves• Rail files

• Long level

Procedure:

Note: You will need to lower the first and possibly the second rail down through the sling rollers.

• Attach the first rail (M2) to the baseplate (M8) with the rail clips (M3-C) hand tight

• If the first rail (M2) passes a rail bracket (M3-A)

o Attach the rail to the bracket with rail clips (M3-C), hand tight.

o Measure the distance from the center of the rail face to the front of the rail bracket (M3-A) and adjust to 5 inches


o Level the rail (M2) using the long level




• If the first rail did not pass a rail bracket (M3-A)

o Attach the first rail to the second with a splice plate (M2-C)

o Use the long level to ensure it is true

o Tighten the splice plate hardware (M2-CH)

o Attach the second rail to the first rail bracket (M3-A) with rail clips (M3-C), hand tight.

o Measure the distance from the center of the rail face to the front of the rail bracket (M3-A) and adjust to 5 inches


o Level the rail using the long level



• Attach a splice plate (M2-C) to the top of the last rail (M2)

• Attach the next rail (M2) to the previous

• Attach the rail (M2) to the rail bracket (M3-A) with rail clips (M3-C) as you pass each one

• Level the rail (M2) and check the 5-inch distance from the rail center to the rail bracket (M3-A) is maintained.

• Repeat the 4 steps above until you reach the top of the shaft

• Once you reach the top, in order to ensure a good quality installation

o Go back over the entire rail (M2) with the long level and make fine adjustments if necessary.

o Go back over the rail (M2) checking for any rough edges at the splices or damage

o File as necessary so that the three rail faces are clean and smooth from the bottom to the top

▪ This will ensure a smooth ride later.


18 – Line rupture valve and hydraulic lines Considerations:

• The below instructions are for a standard cylinder (H1) and a standard sling (M1), for special slings and cylinders refer to the index in order to find the options that will give you alternate instructions.

• Pipe dope is preferred over thread tape as thread tape can contaminate the valve.

• Do not use excessive thread sealant

• Refer to diagram 18a for details

• Keeping all fitting (H4-B), pipe (not included) and hose (H4-A) clean will ensure you will not contaminate the hydraulic oil. Contamination will travel to the hydraulic valve and will cause internal leakage issues later on. Please keep caps on the hose, pipe ends and fittings until they are required and clean everything as you go with lint free clothes.

Materials required:

• OLS Line rupture valve (LRV) (H5)• Hydraulic hose (H4-A) and/or pipe as per local codes and standards • Hydraulic fitting kit (H4-B)• Appropriate clamps for the hose or pipe used (not included)

Tools recommended:• Thread sealant (not included)

• For ½ inch fittings

o ⅞ inch wrench

o 1-inch wrench

o 1 ¼ inch wrench

o 1 ⅛th inch wrench

o 1 1/16th inch wrench

o Adjustable wrench

• For ¾ inch fittings

o 1-inch wrench

o 1 ¼ inch wrench

o 1 ⅜th inch wrench

o 1 5/16th inch wrench

o Adjustable wrench


• Clean and lint free clothes

• 6mm allen key

• 4mm allen key

• Tools for hydraulic hose clamps being used

• 9/16 wrench for the U-bolt hardware

• 13mm wrench

Procedure:

• If the line rupture valve was not preassembled, assemble it now as per section 4• Rotate the cylinder (H1) to gain access to the oil port near the bottom of the cylinder• Refer to diagram 18a for details• Remove the plate that covers the port with a 6mm allen key• Clean the area around the port, including the groove• Place the O ring that came with the line rupture valve in the groove around the cylinders

oil port

• Mount the line rupture valve over the O ring so the adjuster is on the top

• Install the four bolts (and washers) that come with the LRV (H5) and tighten with a 6mm allen key

• Turn the cylinder (H1) so that the LRV (H5) is on your right and almost touching the rail wall. In this position, the LRV will clear the sling (M1), shackles (M6-C), and safeties.

• Tighten the U-bolt (M4-B) holding the cylinder (H1) with a 9/16th inch wrench once you are sure you won’t need to move it to access the plumbing connections

• Run the hydraulic lines (H4-A) back to the Hydraulic Power Unit’s (H2) location

Note: Hydraulic lines can vibrate slightly when the elevator is running up, make sure the pipes and hoses are properly secured and do not touch anything against which they might vibrate and cause noise.

• Set the line rupture valve (H5) (if not done already)

o Remove the hex cap from the line rupture adjustment

o Loosen the brass locknut with a ½ inch or 13mm wrench

o Turn the allen key adjustable rod all the way out and then in one turn, using a 4mm allen key.

o Retighten the brass locknut with the 13mm wrench

o Replace the hex cap with the 13mm wrench


19 – Hydraulic drain line (H3) Considerations:

• The OLS cylinder (H1) is designed such that the piston rod stays wet and a small amount of oil collects in the pocket at the top of the case around the seal. A drain hose (H3) needs to connect to the top of the cylinder (H1) to drain the oil collected either back to the hydraulic power unit (H2) or down to a container in the bottom of the shaft.

Materials required:

• ¼ inch PVC, clear plastic hose (H3)

• Appropriate clips to attach the plastic line to the wall (not supplied)

• Plastic right-angled connector that comes attached to the top of the cylinder

• 2 Liter plastic jug (optional, not supplied)

Tools recommended:

• Knife to cut plastic line• Appropriate tools for clips you are using

Procedure:• Turn the plastic fitting into the hole at the top of the cylinder (H1)• Connect the drain line (H3) to the fitting • Run the drain line to the power units’ tank or if not possible to a 2L jug in the pit against

the rail wall

• Clip the hose to the wall as necessary, being careful not to kink the line.

Tip: Occasionally the oil will not drain due to air in the lines. Drilling a very small hole in the top of the drain elbow will resolve this issue.


19A – Hydraulic drain line detail

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20 – The sheave (M5) Considerations:

• This procedure is designed for standard cylinders (H1) and slings (M1). Refer to the appropriate options for details.

Materials required:• Sheave assembly (M5)

• Bolt that is shipped in the top of the cylinder (H1)

Tools recommended:

• 8mm allen key

• 11/16 wrench

• ½ inch wrench

Procedure:

• Remove the shipping bracket that holds the plunger rod in place and discard

• Keep the large bolt aside• Reinstall the allen bolt that was holding the shipping bracket• Disassemble the thick bottom plate of the sheave (set aside the hardware)• Mount the sheave plate to the top of the cylinder using the large bolt from earlier step• Install the sheave between the rails, loosening the shoe brackets as necessary• Lower the sheave onto the thick bottom sheave plate

• Reattach the thick bottom sheave plate to the sheave (with the hardware you set aside earlier)

• Adjust the sheave shoe brackets so there is a 1/16-inch gap between the internal face of the rail and the inside of each shoe

• Using your long level laying across the rails (M2), adjust the shoes so that the sheave assembly (M5) is parallel to the rail bracket (M3-A) see drawing 20A

NOTE: the sheave shoes should be in the middle of the slots, and the same on each side. If the shoes are not centered in the slots it is an indication that the cylinder may be out of plumb.

• Loosen the bolts holding the top sheave plate. Removing this later will assist in roping the sheave


20A – Sheave detail


21 – Connect the wire ropes to the sling

Considerations:

Materials Required:• 2 wire ropes (M6-A)• 4 rope clips (M6-B)• 2 shackle hearts (M6-D)

Tools recommended:• Gloves• 1/2-inch wrench• Heavy zip ties (not included)

Procedure:• Remove the electrical tape that is holding the wire rope (M6-A) in a coil• Do not remove the tape on the ends of the cable as it keeps the ends from unraveling

and protects you from the sharp ends of the wires• Lay the rope out and avoid kinking the cable• Removing the sheaves (M5) top plate will make running the cables (M6-A) over the

sheave easier• Run the cables up (M6-A) through the lower left of the sheave wheel and down and out

the bottom right then to the shackles (M6-C) on the sling refer to diagram 21A• Run the ropes (M6-A) into the shackles (M6-C) and out the bottom, making sure not to

cross the ropes, refer to sling roping detail diagram 21A• Place a heart (M6-D) against each rope, wrap a loop around it and then route it back up

through the same shackle, refer to sling roping detail diagram 21A• Make sure at least one foot of rope extends past the top of the shackle• Pull the rope tight in order to pull the heart (M6-D) into the shackle (M6-C)• Install one clip (M6-B) 3/8 of an inch above the top of the shackle • Install one clip (M6-B) 1 1/8 inches above the first clip • Bind the two shackles (M6-C) together using two heavy zip ties to prevent rotation• Remove the vice grips installed when installing the sling • Reinstall the plate on the top of the sheave (M5)


21A – Sling roping detail

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22 – Install the controller and hydraulic power unit Considerations:

• The controller (E2) can be mounted to the hydraulic power unit (H2) with the supplied brackets (E2-B) and supplied hardware (E2-BH) or mounted directly to a wall (hardware not provided).

• All wire lengths provided are calculated based on the location of the controller that was specified in the elevator order. Changing the location of the controller and power unit can result in the travel cable (E5) and the other wires (E11, E7) being either too short or too long.

• The following factors should be taken into account when deciding where to locate the main controller (E2).

o How the hydraulic lines (H4) can be run to the controller (E2)o How the travel cable (E5) and other cables (E7, E11) can be run to the controller

(E2)o Access to the 220 VAC and 120 VAC lighting powero Accessibility of pump (H2) and controller (E2) for service calls

Note: It is very important that contamination (metal filings, dirt and dust) be kept out of the oil and fittings. Make sure the top of the buckets, funnels and fittings are clean before use.

Materials required: • Main controller (E2)• Controller mounting arms (E2-B) (with 3/8th-inch bolts and nuts attached) (E2-BH)

• Hydraulic power unit (H2)

• 5 pails of AW32 hydraulic oil (not supplied)

Tools recommended:

• Large funnel

• 9/16th-inch wrench

• Screws and power screwdriver (if mounting directly to a wall)

Procedure:

• Place the hydraulic power unit (H2) within 3 feet of the 220vac pump and 120vac lighting power plugs, on the left side when you are facing the disconnects.

• Attach the two controller mounting arms (E2-B) to the power unit with the 3/8th-inch bolts and nuts, which are shipped attached to the arms (E2-BH).

• While the controller is held in place 14 inches above the tank lid, mark the location of the top two screws on the plywood.

• Set the controller down and install the top two screws half way in.


• Hang the controller (E2) on the brackets (E2-B) and install all six screws fully (E2-BH).

• Adjust the length of the 220vac BX cable as necessary and connect to the power unit electrical box with hardware supplied in the box. Be sure to use the supplied anti-short inside the end of the BX cable.

• Make the following connections using the supplied wire connectors, the wiring diagram is supplied inside the pouch on the back of the lid to the junction box.

o 10awg BX black to 10awg motor black

o 10awg BX red to 10awg motor red

o 10awg BX white to 10awg motor white

o BX ground to 10awg green• Run the black 6 conductor cable into the power unit electrical box using the electrical

fittings supplied in the box.• Connect the valve control wires like colour to like colour (i.e. red to red, black to

black….) using the disconnects supplied. The wiring diagram is supplied inside the pouch on the back of the lid to the junction box.

• Connect the hydraulic lines (H4) to the power unit’s ball valve, we advise using at least 2 feet of flexible hydraulic hose at the pump connection if the rest was hard-piped. This is allowed by code within the machine room (in most jurisdictions) and helps with the transmission of vibrations to the pipe.

Note: a 90-degree fitting is provided and may be used here to turn the hose quicker in towards the wall.

• Open the ball valve at the power unit connection.

• Add 4 pails of type 32 hydraulic oil to the tank using a large funnel.

• Connect the 220 and 120 plugs to the 220 and 120 outlets provided by the electrician.

o If local codes and standards require a hardwired connection, remove the cords and plugs and wire directly to the disconnects with a minimum of 10awg wire.

• Connect the BES3 remote pendant (provided with your first purchase) to the labeled connector on the left side of the main controller board.

o If you have a non BES3 remote, refer to page 24 of the electrical package for how to connect it to the screw terminals

• Turn on the pump and lighting disconnect and connect the battery leads to the batteries inside the controller.

• Slide the installation switch on the controller circuit board to the right, “INSTALL”.

• Ensure the pendants E-stop is out (pull hard).

• Press the up button for 2 seconds to confirm that the pump will run.

• Cover the hydraulic power unit with the large plastic bag that is shipped inside the HPU’s electrical box. This will keep the power unit clean.


Note: A switch has been provided on the controller board just below the fuses that will turn off the high-speed valves. This can be advantageous when fine-tuning the pump adjustments, ringing out the cylinder and roping the sling.


22A –Controller and hydraulic power unit detail

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23 - Bleeding the cylinder Considerations:

• If the power unit (H1) will not run with the pendant (E38), refer to the BES3 service manual section E

• The hydraulic power units (H1) are adjusted and tested before shipping, although fine-tuning may be required (best to wait until the end of the project). The pump will operate without any adjustments.

Materials required:• None

Tools recommended:• ½ inch wrench • A ladder may be required

Procedure:• Locate the bleed screw near the top of the cylinder and gain access• Turn the bleed screw halfway, the bolt is ground on one side so that it will let the air out.• Force the air out of the lines and cylinder

o Press up on the remote pendant (E38) until the cylinder (H1) moves a few inches

o Push down on the cylinder to force air out and then repeat above

Tip: stand to one side with a rag ready to go, as oil will come out when the air stops

• As the oil moves into the top of the cylinder, the pitch of the sound will increase• Sliding the high-speed switch off as the oil gets closer will limit the amount of oil that

comes out. It is located in the middle of the main controller board.• Continue forcing the air out of the cylinder (by running the power unit) until oil starts to

come out, then stop.• Tighten the bleed screw.

NOTE: This will remove the majority of the air, but after a few hours of sitting an air pocket will reform at the top of the cylinder as the air mixed in with the oil settles out. It is advisable after 30 minutes or more of not running the lift to turn out the bleed screw half way and release that air. The air can also be bled before running the elevator the morning of the second day.


23A - Cylinder bleed screw detail

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24 – Pre-stroking the cylinder

Considerations:• None

Materials Required:• Final elevation diagram (shipped with the electrical package)

Tools recommended:• None

Procedure:

• Check the final elevation diagram for the pre-stroke measurement, refer to the example elevation diagram 7b note E

• Turn the high-speed switch off (on the main controller circuit board)• Extend the cylinder (H1) using the remote pendant station (E38)• Hold a measuring tape up to measure the distance between the top of the cylinders

casing and the bottom of the sheave plate, refer to the pre-stroke detail diagram 25a• Stop when the distance between the top of the cylinders casing and the bottom of the

sheave plate is equal to the pre-stroke distance, refer to the pre-stroke detail diagram 25a

Note: If you overextend the cylinder (H1), use the down button and some persuasion to push the jack back in. You may have to add weight to the top of the cylinder in order to get the cylinder to go down.


24A - Pre-stroke detail


25 – Lift the sling to floor level Considerations:

• You will need to know the finished flooring thickness for the cab and the main floor. You will need this for the other floors later when levelling the floors.

Material required:• None


Procedure:• Find out if there will be a difference between the thickness of flooring going into the cab

and onto the landing. Be sure to account for any material that will be in between the rough floor and the finished floor

• Remove the vise grips that were holding the brakes off• Using the above information, lift the sling so that the finished floor of the cab and the

finished floor of the landing will be at the same level• Allow the brakes to lock the sling into place


26 – Connecting the ropes at the jack post Considerations:

• None

Materials Required:• 2 shackles (M6-C)• 4 rope clips (M6-B)• 2 shackle hearts (M6-D)

Tools recommended:• ¾ inch wrenches (for shackles)• Pliers (for cotter pins)

Procedure:• Install the shackles (M6-C), if the shackles were not installed on the jack post topper

(M7-A) earlier

o Remove the cotter pin, nuts and washers from the shackles

o Insert the two shackles down through the holes in the jack post top

o Add the large washer, small washer, and the two nuts onto each of the shackles threaded rods until the nuts are halfway up the rods. This will allow you some room to adjust the rope length later by +/- 4.5 inches, or +/- 9 inches of travel.

o Install the cotter pins and bend over the ends• Run the ropes (M6) into the shackles and out the bottom, making sure not to cross the

ropes, refer to jack post roping detail diagram 27a • Place a heart (M6-D) against each rope, wrap a loop around it and then route it back up

through the same shackle. refer to jack post roping detail diagram 27a• Make sure at least one foot of rope extends past the top of the shackle• Pull the rope tight in order to pull the heart into the shackle• Install one clip (M6-B) ⅜th of an inch above the top of the shackle • Install one clip (M6-B) 1 ⅛th inches above the first clip • Make sure any extra ropes will not interfere with the travel of the sling. The excess

ropes will be cut off after the proper operation of the roped hydraulic system has been confirmed.


26A – Jack post roping detail


27 – Repositioning the sling extensions Considerations:

• The sling extensions (M1-C) at the top of the sling (M1) may be shipped in a lowered position for shipping. They may need to be extended to the proper height.

• The height that the extensions (M1-C) should extend changes based on several factors, cab height, floor thickness greater than 1.5 inches, and size of the sling legs.

• This procedure is for cab heights of 84 and 96 inches, with 1.5-inch floors and standard sling legs, for other cab heights, thicker floors, and “super slings” refer to the list of special options in the front of the manual for direction to the proper procedures

• The objective is for the center of the large slots (through which the threaded rod will go) to end up 1.5 inches above the cab’s ceiling (Interior cab height + floor thickness + ceiling thickness + 1.5 inches).

Materials Required:• None

Tools recommended:• 9/16th inch wrench

Procedure:• Remove the bolts ( M1-CH) holding each of the sling extensions (M1-C) in place.• For a 96-inch cab

o The distance from the surface the floor sits on to the middle of the large slots needs to be 100 ½ inches.

o Install the bolts to hold the extensions in place.• For an 84-inch cab

o The distance from the surface the floor sits on to the middle of the large slots needs to be 88 ½ inches.

o Install the bolts to hold the extensions in place.


27A – Sling extensions detail


28 – Adjusting the sling rollers

Considerations:• The objective is for the weight of the sling to be supported by the four white rollers and

for the four blue rollers to only lightly touch the rails. It is very easy to put too much pressure on the adjustable blue rollers due to the eccentric shaft design and the length of the wrenches handle.

• The side rollers should also be lightly touching the rails as the lift travels from top to bottom.


Tools recommended:• 15/16 inch socket (either deep or with an extension)• 1 ¼ inch wrench• 9/16th inch wrench (ratchet style preferred)

Procedure:• Confirm that the four eccentric blue main rollers are adjusted away from the rails. Refer

to diagram 30b• Make sure the white rollers are adjusted so that the green paint mark is as far away

from the rail as possible• Loosen the four side rollers

o Loosen the end nuts (refer to diagram 30a)• Shift the sling until it is straight and centered by ensuring the inside edge of the rollers

are flush with the inside face of the rails• Tighten the four side rollers until they touch the rail but can still be easily turned by

hando Loosen the end nuts (refer to diagram 30a)o Adjust the nuts to bring the rollers in towards the railso Tighten the outer nuts to hold the rollers in position.

Note: Do not use the side rollers to force the rails apart and increase the DBG. The side rollers should not be under load.

• Tighten the four adjustable blue main rollers (bottom ones first) until they make contact with the rails but can still be easily turned by hand

o Use the 15/16th socket to loosen the nut on the inside of the rail, then turn the shaft of the roller with a 1 ¼ inch wrench. Tighten in place with the socket. See diagram 30D and 30E

• Confirm that the sling is still centered on the rails• Re-check that all side and adjustable blue main rollers are touching the rail but still can

be turned by hand


28A – Sling roller detail

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29 – The cab floor (C1) Considerations:

• The floor (C6) needs to be perfectly level, square to the hoistway, and in the correct position or the cab will be out of square, out of plumb or in the wrong position later in the install.

Materials Required:• Cab floor (C6)• One inch #8 wood screws (22) not included

Tools recommended:• Power screwdriver for wood screws

Procedure:• Consult the cab layout diagram in your final detail package to determine the orientation

of the floor (C1)• Place the cab floor (C6) on the sling arms (M1)• Orientate the floor (C6) as per your final cab layout diagram• Use the final cab layout diagram to set the clearances between the cab floor and each

of the landing(s) • Use the final cab layout diagram to set the clearances between the cab floor and each

of the other walls • Mark the centerline for the landing doors (M10) on the cab floor as per the final layout

diagram• Use the centerlines to check the position of the bottom floor landing doors (M10) if they

are installed. If not mark the centerline of the rough landing door opening and confirm the door can be properly positioned within the opening and mark the exact location on the floor of the opening.

• If the actual width of the shaft is not as per plans or your door locations are not located where they should be, note the issues for now. Set the floor in the best possible position. We will need to know any issues with the remainder of the shaft before we decide what to do to resolve these issues.

• It is best not to permanently attach the floor (C6) until after the rollers and brakes are adjusted and the proper travel of the sling has been confirmed. Two screws will hold it from shifting for now.


29A – Cab floor


30 – Adjusting the safeties/brakes

Considerations: • The knurled roller must be held so that it does not touch the rail, and is then pulled up

when the ropes go slack by the brake cables. There are two adjustments involved: the position of the brake block and the tension on the cables when the ropes are tight.

Materials Required:• Brake setting shim or something else 1/16th of an inch thick and narrow.

Tools recommended:• 9/16th inch wrench• 10mm wrench• Safety setting tool (or 1/16th inch thick material)

Procedure:• Refer to diagram 31a • Loosen the four bolts that hold the brake block to the sling• Loosen the brake cables so there is some slack, i.e. no tension on the cables. This is

accomplished by adjusting the nuts at the ends of each cables sheath to change the tension of the cable inside

• Set each block so there is a 1/16th inch gap between the back of the block and the rail using a shim

• Tighten the bolts that hold the block in position making sure the block remains parallel to the rail

• Tighten the brake cables so there is tension on the cables, but the knurled brake rollers are still in their lowest possible position. The shim can be used to confirm this by making sure this gap is also 1/16th of an inch

• The result should be that the rail is centered between the knurled roller and the back of the brake block. This will prevent the rail from rubbing on the block and the roller from catching on a splice


30A – Adjusting the safeties/brakes


31 – Testing the safeties Considerations:

• Before cab installation is the best time to make sure the safeties and slack rope switch are activated properly when the ropes are slack and access is not impeded by the cab walls.

Materials required:• Blocking material to hold the sling (M1) six inches (approximately) above the pit floor for

easier access to the safeties and the slack rope switch. The material should be able to safely hold up the 400lb sling.

Tools recommended:• 7/16th inch wrench• Flashlight

Procedure:• Inspect the arm the slack rope switch is attached to, it should be horizontal. If it is not,

you will have to loosen the two bolts hold it, with a 7/16th inch wrench and reposition it• Use the remote to move the sling up a foot off the pit floor • Place blocking under the sling that is around six inches high such that it will hold up the

sling• Lower the sling (using the remote) onto the blocking until the ropes go slack• Inspect the paddle that the ropes attach to, it should have lowered down onto the slack

rope switch and activated it• The knurled rollers should be making contact with the rails and have a little more room

to move. If the brakes do not seem to be adjusted properly return to section 31 and set up the brakes again

• The two safeties should be adjusted the same • Lift the sling off the blocking using the remote and remove the blocking from the pit

floor


31A – Adjusting the safeties/brakes


32 - Remove scaffolding Considerations:

In preparation for moving the sling, any temporary platforms, ladders, or metal staging will need to be removed.

Materials required:

None

Tools recommended:

Depends on the method used

Procedure:

Depends on the method used


33 – Testing / checking the travel of the sling (M1) Considerations:

• With a running sling (M1), the next step is to carefully move the sling up and down the shaft from bottom to top and check for any issues with door opening locations and setback, wall clearances, and that the sling travels smoothly and quietly up and down the rails.

• This procedure also allows the opportunity to check that the hydraulic power unit (H2) is functioning properly by running the sling up and down, fast and slow. Fine-tuning of acceleration and down speeds will need to wait however until we have some more weight on the sling, i.e.: when the cab and cartop equipment have been installed.

• If a hard stop has been specified for your project it should be installed at the top of the rails before attempting to fully extend the cylinder. Refer to Option C for the procedure for mounting the top hard stop.



Procedure:• Slide the high-speed switch on the main controller board (E2) to OFF• Using the remote carefully move the platform up and down the shaft documenting the

following

o The setback at each landing

o The clearance to other walls • If any of the measurements are not as per your projects final drawings, you will need to

try and find the best possible location for the floor or identify changes that need to be made to the shaft or the landings.

• Move the sling up slowly until the cylinder (H1) is fully extended

Note: In some cases, engineering may specify a top hard stop. In this case, you will not be able to fully extend the cylinder.

• The cab floor (C1) should be 3 inches past the landing floor (plus or minus a ¼ inch). This is your over travel. You will need to account for the flooring to be used in the cab and at the landing.

o If the cab floor is 3 ¼ to 6 inches above the landing floor

• Move the cab to the bottom landing

• Adjust the nuts on both of the jack post shackles down half the extra distance. This will lengthen the ropes and solve the issue.

o Example: The over travel is 5 inches. 5-3= 2, therefore the over travel is 2 inches too much. The wire ropes will need to be


lengthened by 1 inch to compensate. Therefore the shackle nuts will need to move down 1 inch.

o If the cab floor is between 1 inch below the landing floor to 2 ¾ inches past the floor

• Move the cab to the bottom landing

• Adjust the nuts on both of the jack post shackles up 1/2 the extra distance. This will lengthen the ropes and solve the issue.

o Example: The over travel is only 1 inch. 3-1= 2, therefore the over travel is 2 inches little. The wire ropes will need to be shortened by 1 inch to compensate, therefore the shackle nuts will need to move up 1 inch.

• If the over travel is off by more than 6 inches in either direction, the sheave (M5) hits the sling (M1) before the cylinder (H1) is fully extended, or the cab (C0) touches the ceiling of the shaft before the cylinder is fully extended, document any measurements that differ from your projects final drawings and call technical support.

• Lower the sling down into the pit and confirm the distance between the cab floor and the landing floor (after considering the finished flooring) is at least 1 inch. This will ensure that relevelling will work properly.

• Level and fasten down the cab floor

o Using a long level check that the floor is level in all directions. If it is not, you will need to shim between the floor and the sling arms and/or the floor and the cross piece in order to make it level in all directions

o Fasten the floor from below using 1 ¼ inch wood screws in the screw holes provided

Note: Ensure the shims have screws going through them to hold them in place.

o Recheck all your clearances.• Turn the high-speed switch on• Run the platform up and down checking the quality of the ride.

Note: Down speed may be affected by the low weight on the sling.


34 – Assemble the cab (C0) Considerations:

• This procedure applies to standard elevator cabs. Refer to the options list in the front of this manual for special instructions for nonstandard cabs

• Cabs are built either with bent metal brackets or welded frames• The cab assembly hardware is shipped either in a bag inside the main components box

or with the cab when it is shipped fully assembled.• The four walls of the cab change depending on the following:

• Type of gates and operator

• Size of cab

• Height of cab

• Height of gates

• Number of gates in the cab (through and 90)• Types of walls include:

• Full wall

• Return wall

• Bulkhead only

• Return wall with bulkhead attached

• No wall • For cabs with only one gate opening, each full wall is marked on the outside with a

sticker stating one of the below:

• Top right

• Top left

• Top rear • For a through cab (two cab gates across from each other) the full walls will be marked

with a sticker with one of the labels below:

• Top rail (installs on the rail wall)

• Top (install on the only other wall)• For 90s (two gates adjacent to each other):

• Top rail (installs on the rail wall)

• Top rear • In most cases return walls, return/header walls and bulkheads cannot be installed

incorrectly and are therefore not marked. If two are almost identical they will be marked appropriately.


Materials required:• All cab walls (C1, C2, C3, C4)

Note: Your project may not have four walls and a wall may be just a header, just a return, or a return and header attached together.

• Cab ceiling (C5)• 5/16th inch bolts 2 to 4 inches long (C0-H) (depending on the thickness of the floor)• 5/16th inch washers (C0-H)

Tools recommended:• ½ inch wrenches • ½ inch sockets • Impact wrench

Procedure:• Move the sling (M1) to allow access below the elevator to the floor of the cab (C6), and

to the inside the elevator cab. Typically, this will be the lowest floor (stop 1) or stop 2.

Cab with three full walls, one gate and brackets (see drawings 34A) • Move the wall labelled “TOP BACK” into the hoistway and place it on the floor across

from the opening• Line up the holes in the floor with the holes in the brackets and bolt in place with the

floor screws hand tight• Bring each full wall into the hoistway and position it according to the label on the back

of the wall• Bolt each wall in place through the floor with 4 of the bolts (these may be longer if the

floor is thicker than typical)

Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood • Bolt between adjoining walls 3 inches above the floor and 17 inches above the floor

hand tight in order to stabilize the walls• If you have a return wall or a return wall with a header attached, set it in place in the

opening and bolt it in place through the floor and to the adjoining wall at the bottom• Using a ladder bolt any return walls with a header attached at the header end with one

or two bolts depending on the height of the header• Using a ladder, bolt between each adjoining full wall and return wall at the top of each

wall, 3 inches and 17 inches from the top• If you have a header only, you will need someone to hold it in place while you bolt it to

the adjoining walls with one or two bolts depending on the height of the header• Move the cab if necessary, in order to access the ceiling and inside the cab at the same

time• Bring the ceiling into the shaft and set it on the walls


• Bolt the ceiling to each wall hand tight with 4 bolts provided.

Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood

Cab with two openings across from each other (known as a through cab). • Bring each full wall into the hoistway and position it according to the label on the back

of the wall. • Bolt each wall in place through the floor with 4 of the bolts (these may be longer if the


Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood. • If you have a return wall or a return wall with a header attached, set it in place in the

opening and bolt it in place through the floor and to the adjoining wall at the bottom. • If you have a header only, you will need someone to hold it in place while you bolt it to

the adjoining walls.• Move the cab if necessary, in order to access the ceiling and inside the cab at the same

time.• Bring the ceiling into the shaft and set it on the walls.• Bolt the ceiling to each wall hand tight with 4 bolts provided.

Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood. • Install the remaining bolts between walls 3 inches below and 17 inches below the

ceiling, hand tight.

Cab with two openings next to each other (known as a 90-degree cab) • Bring each full wall into the hoistway and position it according to the label on the back

of the wall. • Bolt each wall in place through the floor with 4 of the bolts (these may be longer if the


Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood. • If you have a return wall or a return wall(s) with a header attached, set it in place in the

opening and bolt it in place through the floor and to the adjoining wall at the bottom. • If you have a header only, you will need someone to hold it in place while you bolt it to

the adjoining walls.• If you have a corner post, bolt it to the floor • Move the cab if necessary, in order to access the ceiling and inside the cab at the same

time.• Bring the ceiling into the shaft and set it on the walls/post.• Bolt the ceiling to each wall/post hand tight with bolts provided.

Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt or nut is up against the wood. • Install the remaining bolts between walls 3 inches below and 17 inches below the

ceiling, hand tight.


For every type of cab • Check that the cab is plumb on each side, if necessary, shift the cab and hold it true. • Tighten all the bolts • Check the cab is still true and each wall is plumb. If not, you may need to loosen some

or all the bolts, straighten the cab and retighten.

Note: It is important the cab is square and level before the cab is attached to the sling in order to prevent the sling from being put under stress and causing premature wear of the rollers.

• Bolt the ceiling to each wall hand tight with 4 bolts provided.

Note: Washers are to be used when a bolt head or nut is up against the wood. • Install the remaining bolts between walls 3 inches below and 17 inches below the

ceiling, hand tight.• Check that the cab is plumb on each side, if necessary, shift the cab and hold it true. • Tighten all the bolts • Check the cab is till true and each wall is plumb. If not, you may need to loosen some

or all the bolts, straighten the cab and retighten.

Note: it is important the cab is square and level before the cab is attached to the sling in order to prevent the sling from being put under stress and causing premature wear of the rollers.


34A – Cab inline


34B – Cab through


34C – Cab 90 degree


35 – Attach the cab (C0) to the sling (M1) Considerations:

• The cab (C0) should be square and each wall plumb before attaching the sling (M1) to the cab (C0) with the sling mount brackets (C7-A) using the sling bracket hardware (C7-H).

• The distance between the cab (C0) and the sling (M1) can vary due to site conditions. You may have had to shift the cab to compensate for differences between your project’s final drawings and site conditions.

Materials Required:• Cab mount hardware kit (C7-H)• Cab mount brackets (C7-A)• One inch long #8 wood screws (24) (not provided)

Tools recommended:• 1 1/8-inch wrenches (2) or 2 adjustable wrenches• Power screwdriver for wood screws

Procedure:• Refer to the cab/sling connection drawing 35A• Connect the two cab mount brackets (C7-A) to the two sling extensions (M1-C) using

the provided hardware (C7-H) as per diagram 35A and tighten fully.• The location of the cab mounting bracket (C7) should be placed so that it will not

interfere with the mounting of other items on the ceiling of the cab. If you are planning on mounting the limit switch cam (M32) on the left side then you should move the left side cab mounting bracket (C7) towards the center of the cab as much as possible.

• Check that all the cab walls are still plumb and the cab is square.• Attach each cab mounting bracket (C7) to the roof of the cab (C5) with 2 one-inch long

wood screws• Check that the cab is still square and each wall is plumb

o If not, remove the screws, adjust and try again

o If the cab is still square and true, install the remaining 22 screws


35A – Cab to sling attachment


36 – Hoistway wiring (E11 and E7) Considerations:

• This procedure will cover standard call stations (E6), dpi call stations, standard locks (E10) and victory landing doors (M10-C). For other call station options (such as hand-wave, exterior, keyed, or custom) and special-order door locks, check the table of contents for your option and consult the appropriate section of this manual.

• This procedure assumes you are installing the low voltage wiring on the wall of the shaft. You may be required to install the wiring inside the wall and/or in conduit due to local codes, standards, company policy or for hoistway and cabs with windows and or glass doors. We will not explain how to run conduit or “hide” the wiring in the shaft in this manual.

• The Cat5 cable’s (E11) length is determined based on the information we were given. If anything has changed (power unit relocated) one or more new cables may be required.

Materials Required:• Call stations (E6) (standard or with dpi display)• Honeywell interlocks (E10) (for Elmira and Heritage landings)• Cambrian breakout box (for Cambrian landings)• Clips to attach wiring to the wall of the shaft (not included)• Blue Cat5 cables (E11) (one per call station)• White Cat5 cables (E11) (one per dpi call station)

Tools recommended:• #2 Philips screwdriver• Drywall saw or vibrating tool• Hammer or another tool to install the cable clips

Procedure:• Refer to diagram 36A for details on hoistway wiring layout• Measure the intended path the cables will take from the controller to each call station

and compare to the supplied cables. If the cables are more than 10 feet too long or are short, other cables may be required. Spare cables are suggested and available from our parts department.

• Connect the cables for each call station at the main controller and run them out the side of the box.

• Label each cable at both ends • Pull the cables up the shaft (typically one corner of the rail wall) leaving enough wiring

to reach the intended location of each call station.

Warning: the wires inside the Cat5 cables can be damaged if walked on, stapled tightly or pulled into a conduit with force.


• Excess cable can be coiled up at the controller or in the shaft. We don’t recommend coiling the excess cable into the main controller.

• If you can install the call station (E6) and lock (E10)at this time, go to section 36 for instructions

• If the call station and lock cannot be installed at this time, you can either connect the call station and interlock and temporarily mount them inside the shaft, or leave the cables coiled up in the corner of the shaft and install the locks and call stations later.

o Screw the call station for each level to the inside of the shaft near the final location with the circuit board facing out.

o Attach the lock to the wall nearby

o Connect the lock cable to the call station

o Connect the blue (and white if DPI) cable(s) to the call station


36A – Hoistway wiring detail

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37 – Installing the cartop electrical Considerations:

• We recommend positioning the cartop MCU box (E1) in the middle of the roof of the cab with the E-stop either towards or away from the rail wall

• The E-stop switch should be accessible from the landings without getting on the cartop.

Materials Required:• Cartop (E1)• Cab lights (E4)• Positioning system sensor head (E23)• Limit switch assembly (M31)• One inch long #8 wood screws (10) not included• 1 ¾ to 2-inch-long #8 wood screws (3) not included

Tools recommended:• Screwdriver for 1-inch screws used• Screwdriver #2 Philips (star)• Screwdriver #2 Robertson (square)

Procedure:• Refer to diagram 37A for the layout of the typical cartop• Place the cartop box on the roof of the cab and turn it so the E-stop button is either

towards or away from the rail wall. The light curtain cables will be coming out of one side (for a single gate cab).

Note: The cartop box is equipped with strain relief bars where the cables exit the box. The screws can be loosened and the bars removed until the wiring is in place and then reinstalled and snugged against the wiring to prevent strain being placed on the connectors.

• Install the cab lights (E4) and connect them to the wires from the lighting power supplies that are extending from each side of the cartop box

• The two-wire cable is the slack rope harness. Extend the cable down the sling side of the cab and connect to the outside two terminals on the slack rope switch. See drawing 37B.

• Install limit switch assembly (M31)

o Run the cable from the limit switch assembly into the cartop box (E1) and connect to “bottom & top limit” J17

o The limit switches (M31) need to hit a cam (M32) that will be attached to one of the rails, (typically the switches are on one side and the positioning system is on the other)


o Temporarily screw the switches to the cartop, it will be positioned in a later step (after the cam is installed)

• Install the sensor head assembly (E23)

o Run the sensor head cables into the cartop box and connect to the 3 sensor plugs on the circuit board. Each cable is labelled either upper, lower or coded (door zone)

o The sensor head needs to engage the coded strips and can be configured as left handed or right handed

o Temporarily screw the sensor head to the cartop • If the light curtains are already installed, they can be connected to the cables that are

extending from the cartop


37A – Cartop electrical


37B – Slack rope switch detail


38 – Install the Cab Operating Panel (COP) (E3)Considerations:

• If you have a non-standard COP, such as a handrail COP, a narrow COP or a short COP please refer to the section “Options and how they will affect your install”

Materials Required:• COP (E3)• COP mounting hardware (shipped inside the COP phone Box) (E3-H)

Tools recommended:• #2 Philips stubby screwdriver (a screwdriver with a short handle)

Procedure:• Refer to diagram 38A • Install the four cage nuts (E3-H) into the slot in the brackets on each side of the cabs

COP hole. See diagram 38A• Lay the COP on the floor of the cab• Remove the three screws holding the COP cover in place (one is inside the phone door)• Feed the cables from the COP through the opening and up to the roof• Carefully lift and insert the COP (E3) into the opening • Line up the holes in the side of the COP box with the cage nuts in the COP mounting

brackets and install the four bolts and washers’ (E3-H) hand tight. See diagram 38A• Position the COP box at the correct depth, the edge of the box should be flush with the

cab wall.• Tighten the four screws that hold the COP in place• Pull the bundle of cables from the COP up to the cartop

Note: The cartop box is equipped with strain relief bars where the cables exit the box. The screws can be loosened and the bars removed until the wiring is in place and then reinstalled and snugged against the wiring to prevent strain being placed on the connectors.

• Run the cables into the cartop box through the cable entry closest to the connector they will plug into

• On the cartop, plug the three Cat5 COP cables into the appropriately labeled connectors on the cartop MCU board

• On the cartop, connect the phone line to the appropriate connector on the cartop MCU board


38A – Cab Operating Panel (COP)


39 – Coded strips (M21, M22) and limit switch cams (M32)Considerations:

• Exceptions: Refer to “Options and how they will affect your install” if you have any of the following options

o Narrow (mini) sling

o Commercial rail brackets (M3-A) “LULA brackets” • The levelling system can be mounted on the right or left-hand side of the rails

depending on the project. The latest hoistway elevation and plan diagrams will have a recommended side based on details of the installation provided.

• The sensor head can be switched from left hand to right hand if necessary. Refer to diagram 39A.

• The sensor heads have a bracket attached, this is shipped typically in the center position but if a splice plate is expected to be in the way, it will be shipped with the bracket in a higher or lower position.

• The top floor sensor has a 3-inch ‘floor zone’ window centered 5 inches below the top. The cab can be levelled anywhere within this window. Refer to diagram 39B.

• The other coded strips have a 6.5-inch ‘floor zone” window centered in the middle of the strip.

• The top limit switch needs to activate when the cab is 1 to 3 inches above the top floor. However, it is best to set it at 2 inches unless site conditions do not allow it.

• The bottom limit switch needs to activate when the cab is ½ to 1 inch below the bottom floor.

Materials Required:• One top floor coded strip (M22) (the shorter one with the T cut into it)• One regular coded strip (M21) for each other floor• Two rail clips (M3-C) with hardware (M3-CH) for each coded strip

Tools recommended:• 18mm socket

Procedure:

Below are two methods for finding the correct position of the coded strips (M21, M22)• Refer to diagrams 39A thru 39D for more information.• Using the elevation diagram

o Locate the latest version of the hoistway installation diagram that was shipped with the electrical system in a large white envelope.

o Install the coded strips as per the measurements from the pit floor shown.

o Install the top and bottom limit switch cams (M32) at the heights from the pit floor shown.


o Using the plum line adjust the slotted strips so that they all are inline and the sensor head will be able to pass over them without any interference.

o Adjust the sensor head (so that the light beams will pass over the middle of the slots (not the rounded ends of the slots).

o Using the levelling speed move the cab slowly up and down the shaft and adjust strips (M21, M22) as required.

o Reposition the limit switch assembly (M31) on the roof of the cab so that the cams (M32) will activate them.

• Measuring from the roof of the cab (cartop)

o Bottom floor limit switch cam:

▪ With the cab level at the bottom floor, the bottom cam (M32) should almost touch the bottom limit switch.

▪ Measure down 5 inches from the level of the cab roof on the rail and mark it BLC

▪ You will likely need to move the cab and enter the pit with a ladder

CAUTION: Be sure to work safely, use safety procedures applicable to your situation.

▪ Attach the bottom limit cam (M32) using the rail clips (M3-C), at the BLC mark

o Bottom and mid floor coded strips:

▪ With the cab at floor level measure and mark CS on the rail 2 ½ inches above the cab ceiling. Mount the coded strip so that the middle of the strip is at this mark.

o Top floor coded strip (short one)

▪ Move the cab so that the roof of the cab is level with the finished floor height of the top landing

▪ Measure up from the roof of the cab the following distance (cab height +1.5 inches) and mark this height on the rail.

Note: Cab height= distance from the finished floor of the cab to the top surface of the cab ceiling and typically is 84 or 96 inches.

▪ Move the cab if needed

▪ Mount the coded strip (M22) so the middle is at the mark you made previously

o Top floor limit switch cam

▪ Measure from the cab ceiling up the cab height plus 12 inches and make another mark on the rail

▪ Mount the top limit (M32) switch cam so the rail clips (M3-C) are at this mark


39A – Sensor head

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39B – Coded strips


39C – Coded strips and limit switch cams


39D – Coded strips and Limit switch cams relationship


40 – Travel cable (E5)Considerations:

• Exceptions: Refer to the “Options” section of the table of contents if you have any of the following options:

o Halfway box with multi-conductor cable to the controller

o Mini-sling• The travel cable (E5) ends are pluggable and marked for “Main” (the end that connects

to the main controller circuit board) and “Cartop” (the end that connects to the cartop MCU board)

• This procedure explains how to hang the travel cable (E5) between the cylinder (H1) and the right rail. If you have enough room between a full cab wall and the shaft wall it is possible to run the cable there. That procedure is covered under mini sling in the options section.

Materials Required:• Travel cable (E5)• Travel cable clamps (2) (E5-B)• Appropriate fasteners to attach the travel cable clamp to rail wall (4 to 6) (not included)• 1 inch long #8 wood screws (to attach the clamp to the cartop) (not included)

Tools recommended:• Screwdriver for screws above

Procedure:• Bring the travel cable package (E5) to the cartop • Screw one of the travel cable clips (E5-B) to the cartop near the ceiling edge nearest the

rail wall between the right rail and the cylinder. • Feed the main controller end (marked) down the rail side of the shaft keeping 10 feet on

the cartop• Use the travel cable clip to hold the weight of the cable• Gain access to the point in the shaft where the travel cable will leave the hoistway• Run the travel cable through the wall and to the controller being sure to leave enough

cable to connect it later• Strap the cable in place between the controller and the shaft• The best height for the travel cable to hang from is around the height of the sheave

when you pre-stroked the cylinder• Measure from the top of the cylinder’s outer casing 6 inches plus the pre-stroke

distance refer to the final elevation drawing


• Install the travel cable clip at the height measured above, centered 6 inches from the face of the right hand rail. This will make sure the travel cable (E5) will run in the “pocket” between the sling rail and the safeties

• Run the travel cable up the corner of the shaft between a rail and the adjoining wall (left or right corner depending on where the controller is) to the height of the travel cable clip

• Strap in place as required• Fold the cable into a 90-degree bend to make the turn and cross under the rail to just

above the travel cable clip. Refer to diagram 40A for an example• Fold the cable to make a 90-degree bend down and through the travel cable clip• Move the elevator down to the lowest floor• From the cartop, adjust the amount of cable that dangles between the cab and the wall

until the cable almost touches the pit floor. If the cable loop is too short or too long it can get snagged on the safeties

• Fold the remaining cable on the roof of the cab and strap in place• Power down the elevator and run the travel cable into the main controller and the

cartop MCU box through the appropriate cable entries and install the bars to clamp them in place

• Connect the travel cable at both ends to the circuit boards as marked• Install the bars to clamp them in place• Power up the elevator


40A – TRAVEL CABLE


41 – Running from the cartop (E1) in service mode • The system should be able to run in service mode if all the safety devices (not including

the gate and landing doors) are clear.• Turn installation mode switch on the main controller off. Refer to diagram 41A.• Use the key switch inside the main controller to turn service mode on. Refer to diagram

41A• The 120 and 220 disconnects beside the main controller must be on• The MCU switch on the main controller board should be off. Refer to diagram 41A.• LED L8 “pit stop closed” (located on the main controller board) should be on. If not,

refer to the BES3 service manual section E• LED L3 “55 cartop E-stop” and L4 “50 COP E-stop closed” located on the main

controller board should be on. If not, refer to the BES3 service manual section E• Attempt to move the cab up and down from the cartop controls by pressing enable and

either up or down.• If the controls don’t work, refer to the BES3 service manual section E


41A – Control panel diagram

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42A – Landing doors with locks (E10) Considerations:

• The locks (E10) are shipped either left or right handed depending on the order from your sales department. If the swing of the doors has changed you may need to order a new lock.

• The locks (E10) come with a 12-foot Cat5 cable already connected to the lock. This cable can be replaced with a longer or shorter one if necessary.

• Exceptions: Refer to “Options and how they will affect your install” if you have the following option

o Have locks other than the Honeywell RDI• The locks (E10) and calls (E6) may have been installed earlier if the doors were ready. If

they were not ready the locks may have been temporally installed near the door opening or the cables may have been left bundled near the opening without the devices connected

• The call stations (E6) are typically located on the door handle side of the landing door 36 inches from the floor to the center of the button and within a foot of the edge of the door frame. Customer preferences, building layout and other factors may necessitate putting the call station somewhere other than the typical location.

Materials Required:• Honeywell locks (E10)• Two-sided tape (not provided)• 3/8-hole plugs (provided)

Tools recommended:• 3/8 Drill bit• Power drill• Screwdriver

Procedure:• Remove the cover of the lock (E10)• From inside the shaft with the door closed, hold the lock in place so the bottom is 77

inches above the floor and mark the location. Refer to diagram 42A• Just above the cable gland, Drill a 1/2” hole through the door frame and into the

hoistway• Feed the black lock cable through to the inside of the hoistway• Screw the lock to the door frame and screw cover back on• Use #8 full thread wood screws at least ¾ inch long to mount the lock to the door jam• To mark the location of the beak (catch for the lock):


o Apply a square of double-sided tape the back of the beak and insert the beak into the lock

o Bring a screwdriver and go inside the cab, closing the door fully

o Insert the head of the screwdriver into the thin rectangle on the lock visible from the inside. Push upwards and the door will unlock. The beak will have adhered to the wood door

o Screw the catch to the door

i. Solid core wood door

1. The screws should be #8 countersunk full thread wood screws long enough to go ¾ the way through the door

ii. Hollow core doors

1. Not recommended

iii. Steel doors

1. Full thread #8 self-tapping screw

Note: The objective is to have a solid connection between the lock and the door so there is no way for the door to be opened if the lock is locked.

Note: Our specification requires a solid core door for safety reasons. A hollow core door may not adequately protect the elevator opening.

• Drill a 3/8” hole for emergency unlocking in the swing door, shown in figure 42AA. Align hole with lock manual override as shown in figure 42AA.

• We have included 3/8” steel plug which is in the white envelope. We suggest you wait until the end of the project to install these as they tend to go missing (painters).

• Connect the black lock wire to the call station as shown in figure 42AA. attach any excess wire to the wall. Repeat on each floor.

Note: Be sure not to crush the Cat5 cable when attaching it to the wall.


42AA – Landing doors with interlock

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42B – Victory landing door contacts (Cambrian Model)Considerations:

• A break out box is used to convert from the Cat5 cable to wires that can be terminated on the landing door contact terminals.

• The breakout box comes with a 12-foot Cat5 cable that will connect to the call station and a 6-foot 2 wire cable that will connect to the landing door contact.

• The call stations (E6) are typically located on the door handle side of the landing door 36 inches from the floor to the center of the button and within a foot of the edge of the door frame, but customer preferences, and building layout and other factors may necessitate putting the call station somewhere other than the typical location.

Materials Required:• Landing door contact breakout box (E13)

Tools recommended:• Screwdriver

Procedure:• Refer to diagram 42B• Mount the black box within 6 feet of each landing door contact and within 12 feet of the

call station• Connect the 2 wires (black and white) from the black box to the door contact. It does

not matter which wire goes on which screw as long as each wire is terminated on its own terminal

• Route the cable down to the call stations location and attach it to the wall• Connect the black lock cable to the call station board (socket labeled “Black”)


42BA – Victory landing door contacts


43 – Elmira manual folding car gate Considerations:

• This procedure is for Woodfold gates (C9) with offset pins. If you have another type of manual gate, please refer to the Options section and/or the manufacturer’s installation instructions

• If your Elmira has powered Porta operator, refer to the section 44

Materials Required:• Woodfold gate (C9)• #8 wood screws (4) (included in gate hardware package inside the Woodfold door box)

Tools recommended:• #2 Philips Screwdriver • ¼-20 tap• Saw to cut the aluminum track for the door• 3/8 wrench

Procedure:• Refer to diagram 43A and B.• Measure the width of the door opening at the ceiling, cut the aluminum top track to

length using a band saw or another appropriate tool.• Measure 1.5 inches in from the front edge of the ceiling in two places and mark a line in

pencil. This will be the centerline of the top track, refer to diagram 43A.• Slide the Woodfold door into the upper track and lift the door onto the bottom track

which is already installed in the cab.• Guide the top of the door and track into the cab and align the screw holes in the track

with the pencil line.• Attach in the top track with the provided screws.• Install the vertical door strike to the closing side by lining the strike up with the top and

bottom track.• At the closing side, ensure the pocket side of the gate runs plumb from the top to the

bottom and attach to the wall using the supplied screws.• Install the supplied metal plate to the vertical door strike where the magnet from the

door meets the strike.• Installing the light curtains

o If the light curtains were not installed previously, now is a good time to install them

o Loosen the bolts in the metal tubing on each side of the opening from below and above, one is one foot up from the floor and the other is one foot down from the ceiling


o Hook the brackets that are on the light curtains onto the bolts and tighten with a wrench from below and above the elevator

• Mounting the gate switch (E14) (and gate switch cam (E14A))

o Refer to diagram 43B.

o Hold the gate switch arm (E14A) onto the leading edge of the gate between the grooves

o Mark (with pencil) the edge of the ceiling on either side of the cam

o The gate switch is built for gates that close on the right (as you are standing looking into the cab). If your cab door closes on the left you will need to remove the two screws in the top of the bracket, turn the switch 180 degrees and remount the gate switch to the bracket

o Mount the gate switch (E14) to the ceiling so that the raised area is centered on the two marks we made earlier on the ceiling’s edge. Screw the bracket in place

o Hold the gate switch cam in place and slide it up until it pushes the gate switch almost all the way up. Mark the gates leading edge through the mounting holes in the gate switch cam.

o Drill 3/16th inch holes in the middle of each location you marked

o Tap the holes with a ¼ -20 tap

o Mount the gate switch cam, adjust and test until it closes the switch (listen for the click) when the door is ½ to 1 inch from closing


43A – Top track and light curtain detail

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43B – Folding gate and switch

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44 – Elmira with Woodfold gate (C9) and Porta door operator (E9) Considerations:

• This procedure is for Woodfold gates. If you have another type of manual gate, please refer to the options section and/or the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

• For manual Woodfold gates see section 43.• For cabs with a bulkhead (gate is shorter than the cab), the operator sits in front of the

bulkhead.

Materials Required:• Woodfold gate (C9) package • Porta operator (E9)• Porta arm for the gate with the bag of hardware attached (comes inside the operator).• Screws (4) to mount porta operator (comes inside the operator).

Tools recommended:• #3 philips• #2 philips• 1/8 inch slot screwdriver

Procedure:• Mount the Porta operator (E9)

o Remove the cover from the operator.

o Place the operator onto the ceiling so that the end of the outer metal box with the gate switch is lined up with the joint between the wall and the metal tubing on the closing side of the door opening. Refer to diagram 44A and B.

o Adjust the operator so the front edge of the operator is flush with the front edge of the ceiling.

o Use the included wood screws and washers to mount the operator to the ceiling.

• Mount the gate (C9)

o Refer to detail diagram 44A and B.

o Measure the width of the gate opening, cut the aluminum top track to length using a band saw or another appropriate tool.

o Measure 1 inch in from the front edge of the ceiling in two places and mark a line in pencil using a straight edge. This will be the centerline of the top track.

o Slide the door into the upper track and lift the door onto the bottom track, which is already installed in the cab.

o Guide the top of the door and the track into the cab and align the screw holes in the track with the pencil line.


o Attach the top track with the provided screws.

o Install the vertical door strike on the closing side by lining the strike up with the top and bottom track.

o At the closing side ensure the pocket side of the gate runs plumb from the top to the bottom and attach to the wall using the supplied screws.

o Install the supplied metal plate to the vertical door strike where the magnet from the door meets the strike.

• Installing the light curtains

o If the light curtains were not installed previously now is a good time to install them.

o Loosen the bolts in the metal tubing on each side of the opening from below and above. One is one foot up from the floor and the other is one foot down from the ceiling.

o Hook the brackets that are on the light curtains onto the bolts and tighten with a wrench from below and above the elevator.

• Mount the Porta operator cam that activates the gate switch. See diagram 44C

o The gate arm may come with its magnet attached left hand or right hand or loose in the hardware bag. You may need to relocate the magnet or mount it.

o Relocate the magnet to change the handing by removing the locknut that keeps the magnet on its screw and moving it to the other screw beside it and reinstalling the nut. Refer to diagram 44C.

o Install the magnet by first installing the two screws with nuts and lock washers and then installing the two magnets with a washer in between and the nut to hold them in place.

o Close the gate.

o Place the arm in the center of the leading edge of the gate.

o Slide it up until the roller pushes up the gate switch almost all the way (1/4-inch shy).

o Mark through the slots in the arm onto the gate edge.

o Drill through the gate edge in the center of the marks with a 5/16-inch drill bit.

o Mount the gate arm with the nuts on the inside of the cab.

o Test the gate switch by opening and closing the door. Adjust the gate switch via the screws in slots above the switch such that the switch will open (click) when the gate is open ½ to one inch.

Note: Some gates are stiff when new, this may cause the bottom of the gate to lag the top of the gate when it is closing You can help this by loosening the bolts holding the arm in place and angling the arm slightly towards the closing side.

• Setup and test the gate operator


o There are four switches inside the operator, they are the open slowdown and open limit, close slowdown and close limit.

o Disengage the gate from the operator.

o Rotate the shaft by hand in order to test the following:

- The carriage should activate the close limit just before the carriage hits the end of its travel and just before the gate is fully closed. Adjust the limit as necessary.

- Adjust the close slowdown switch so that it is activated two or more inches before the stopping point.

- Adjust the open limit so that it is activated just before the gate is fully open.

- Adjust the open slowdown switch so that it is activated two inches or more before the gate is fully open.

o Set the high-speed adjustment on the board to fully clockwise.

o Set the low-speed adjustment to ½ of full value.

o Power up the operator with the power switch on the roof.

o Use the manual switch inside the operator to open and close the gate. Observe the operation and adjust the switches and speeds until you are happy with the operation of the gate.


44A – Porta operator placement

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44B – Porta operator alignment

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44C – Porta operator gate arm

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45 - OLS (Victory) gate operator (E9)Considerations:

• The height of the cab (C0) in relation to the height of the door panels determines how the operator (E9) mounts to the roof (C5) of the elevator car. There are several different brackets we can send with the operator and different hardware to mount them. The basic types are L, T and drop down.

• Heritage operators will have had the skates removed as it does not need to couple with landing doors.

• There are 3 variables that determine how the operator is mounted to the cab:

o The height of the cab

o The height of the car gates

o The type of operator-2 panels (2 speed) or 3 panels (3 speed)

• Chart 45I details the brackets used based on the above variables and diagrams 45A thru 45H show each installation in detail.

• The objective of this procedure is for the bottom edge of the operator to end up 1.5 inches above the bottom finished edge of the jog piece (refer to diagrams)

Materials Required:• Door operator (E9)• Operator mounting brackets (E9-A) (included in the operator box)• Door operator hardware kits (E9-H) (included in the operator box)

Tools recommended:• 6mm allen key• ½ inch socket

Procedure:• Lay the operator (E9) face down and install the brackets (E9-A) on the back of the

operator as per the diagram that applies to your situation

o There are several holes on each end of the operator that you can use to attach the brackets, which ones you use depends on your cab consider the following before choosing which ones to use.

• Measure the cab width above the gate opening

• Check for anything that might be in the way (cab light, sensor arm, limit switch bracket)

• You want the brackets as far apart as possible

• Based on the information obtained above, decide which holes in the back of the operator to use to attach the brackets


Note: As per the pictures in most cases only one screw is used per bracket

o For cabs that do not have bulkheads (the doors are the same height as the cab), the L shaped brackets mount upside down. Refer to diagram 45A

o For cabs that do not have bulkheads and cabs with 4 inch bulkheads your brackets use cage nuts that are in slots. You will then need to adjust the position of the bracket as below.

• No bulkhead = the bottom edge of the operator should be a ¼ inch above the bottom of the bracket. Refer to diagram 45C and 45D

• 4 inch bulkhead = The bottom edge of the bracket should be 4 ¼ inches above the bottom edge of the operator. Refer to diagram 45A and 45B

o Cabs with 7, 11, or 16-inch bulkheads use brackets with fixed threaded bolt holes so no adjustment is necessary. Refer to diagram 45E, 45F, 45G, 45H

• Place the operator onto the cab – align left to right

o For cabs with no bulkhead, align the operator so that the closing side of the operators’ black frame lines up with the finished closing side of the cab gate opening. Refer to diagram 45J

o For cabs with a bulkhead, the operator should be tight to the wall on the closing side

• Align front to back

o The back of the operator’s case should be 1¼ inches forward of the edge of the ceiling. Refer to diagram 45J

• Install the cab sill

o Locate the 3-inch-long 3/8th carriage bolts and slide them into the slots on the bottom of the sill

• For two panel operators, install three bolts in the large slot.

• For three panel operators, install one bolt in each slot (this prevents the sections from sliding)

Note: The transition piece is optional, but if you wish to use it, it should be installed onto the sill plate before placing the sill onto the floor

o Place the sill onto the edge of the cab and guide one bolt into each slot

o Using the 3/8th washers and 3/8th nuts tighten the sill into place from below• Hanging the doors

o Install one cage nut into the center of each slot into the operator’s door hanger plates

o Hang the door panel furthest from the landing (closest to the cab) first

• Install using the Allen key bolt, lock washer and off-set cam washer from the hardware kit included with the door operator. Center the panel relative to the hanger plate. Refer to diagram 45K


• Install the door gibs

• Install a cage nut into each gib as per diagram

• Pull the bottom of the panel forward and insert two of the gibs into the bottom of the panel, one on each side.

• Swing the panel back over the sill and drop the gibs into their slot

• Adjust the doors using the tool included on the eccentric washers so there is a ¼ inch gap between the bottom of the door panel and the sill. Check that the panel is still parallel to the cab wall.

• Check the door panel is parallel to the wall of the cab and 1/8th inch short of touching the jog piece on the end. Adjust the door panel left and right if necessary

• The door panel should clear the edge of the “door hide” (jog piece) by 1/8th of an inch. If it is more than that, use one of the methods below to resolve the problem.

• For cabs with no bulkhead, move the operator slightly to provide the clearance

• For cabs with bulkheads, you will need to use the included shims between the plate and the door panel to make the necessary adjustment

o Hang the second and third door panels

• Install using the Allen key bolt, lock washer and off-set cam washer from the hardware kit included with the door operator. Center the panel relative to the hanger plate. Refer to diagram 45K

• Install the door gibs

• Install a cage nut into each gib as per diagram

• Pull the bottom of the panel forward and insert two of the gibs into the bottom of the panel, one on each side.

• Swing the panel back over the sill and drop the gibs into their slot

• Check that the door panel is parallel to the first panel, and adjust if necessary.

• Adjust the doors using the included tool on the eccentric washers so there is a ¼ inch gap between the bottom of the door panel and the sill. Check that the panel is still parallel to the cab wall

• When installing the last door panel, it should stop just short of the cab wall when closed and have an even gap all the way down.

• The door panel should clear the previous door panel. If a shim was used on the first panel, a shim will be needed on all other panels.

o Open and close the door panels by hand. Check for any rubbing and that all panels line up when the doors are fully open.

• Connect the door operator cable to the cartop MCU board


o If you have only one operator plug its cable into the gate “operator A” two-pin and seven-pin connectors

o If you have two or three gate operators, each cable and plug will be labeled with the stops that that gate operator is programmed to open at.

• Install the light curtains

Note: One light curtain mounts to the closing side cab wall via special brackets. The other is best mounted to the back of the fast door panel. Although you can mount it to the front edge of the fast door panel, we have found that the curtains are less vulnerable to alignment issues if they are further apart when the doors are closed.

Note: If you have two sets of light curtains be sure to keep the pairs together (there are serial numbers on each). They are tuned for each other.

o Loosen the bolts in the metal tubing on the closing side of the opening from below and above, one is one foot up from the floor and the other is one foot down from the ceiling

o Hook the brackets that are on the one light curtain onto the bolts and tighten with a wrench from below and above the elevator

o Hold the second light curtain on the back edge of the fast door panel at the same height from the floor as the other curtain and mark the location of the lowest and highest holes

o Drill a hole in the edge at each location

o Mount the curtain using the nuts and bolts supplied with the curtains• Connect the light curtain cables from the cartop MCU to the curtains. If you have 2 or 3

door operators be sure to connect the correct light curtains to the correct power units.• Use stick on anchors and tie wraps to attach the light curtain cables to the cab edge

and the fast door panel and open and close the doors to ensure that the cables don’t get caught.


45A – 2 speed operator with 78.75 inch doors on a 84 inch cab

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45B – 3 speed operator with 78.75 inch doors on a 84 inch cab


45C - 2 speed operator with 84 inch doors on a 84 inch cab or 96 inch doors on a 96 inch cab


45D - 3 speed operator with 84 inch doors on a 84 inch cab or 96 inch doors on a 96 inch cab


45E - 2 speed operator with 78.75 inch doors on a 96 inch cab


45F - 3 speed operator with 78.75 inch doors on a 96 inch cab


45G – 2 speed operator with 84 inch doors on a 96 inch cab


45H - 3 speed operator with 84 inch doors on a 96 inch cab


45I - OLS (Victory) gate operator (E9) / cab configuration chartdoor / cab combinations door cab L T SPECIAL HDWR RELOCspeed width height height bracket bracket BRACKET PACK box

A 2 speed 36 146365/6 78.75 84 X A

B 3 speed 32 127531/2 78.75 84 X A

C 3 speed 36 127539/40 78.75 84 X A

D 2 speed 36 146365/6 84 84 X B

E 3 speed 32 127531/2 84 84 X B

F 3 speed 36 127539/40 84 84 X B

G 2 speed 36 146365/6 78.75 96 A A X

H 3 speed 32 127531/2 78.75 96 A A X

I 3 speed 36 127539/40 78.75 96 A A X

J 2 speed 36 146365/6 84 96 B A X

K 3 speed 32 127531/2 84 96 B A X

L 3 speed 36 127539/40 84 96 B A X

M 2 speed 36 146365/6 88 96 C A X

N 3 speed 32 127531/2 88 96 C A X

O 3 speed 36 127539/40 88 96 C A X

P 2 speed 36 146365/6 96 96 X B

Q 3 speed 32 127531/2 96 96 X B

R 3 speed 36 127539/40 96 96 X B


45J – Gate operator alignment


45K – Door panel installation detail

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46A – Cambrian, 2 speed landing door assembly (M10) Considerations:

If you have frameless landing frames refer to the option section.

The victory landings may come with one large sill support bracket or three small ones.

This procedure suggests locating the sill support bracket(s) and mounting them first, removing the sill and then building the landing frame on saw horses and lifting it into place. Alternatively, the landing frame could be built on the sill in the hoistway.

The transition pieces are optional. Some flooring material can be brought up to the sill without it. We advise checking with the builder.

Materials Required:• Landing frame (M10-C)• Hardware kits that come with the landing frame (M10-H)

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Tools recommended:

• Hammer• Adjustable wrench• 17mm wrench• Long level• 6mm Allen key

• Wire cable crimpers (heavy duty)• For wood walls

o Drill

o Pilot bit 1/8th inch

o Driver for wood lags


• For concrete walls

o Hammer drill

o Concrete bit ⅜th

o Bits for concrete anchors

Procedure:• Determine the exact height of the finished floor at the landing• Move the cab to that floor and mark (or confirm previous) centerline (midpoint of the

door opening)• Install the landing sills

o Attach the three landing support brackets to the landing sill

• Slide the three m10 25mm carriage bolts into the slot in the bottom of the sill

• Attach the three landing supports (or the one large sill support bracket depending which was shipped) to the sill, one in the center and the other two halfway between the center and the edge of the sill

• Install the nuts and washers, hand tight

o Hold the sill in place so the top of the sill is at the finished landing floor level

o Adjust left and right such that the stacking side ends of the two sills line up

o Mark the slot locations on the shaft wall beneath the doorway

o Mount the sill supports using appropriate hardware. The bolts should be in the center of the slots in order to allow for adjustment

o Remove the sill from the sill supports• Assemble the landing frame

We recommend using saw horses as a work surface for assembling the landing frame

o Set the strike post and return post on the saw horses

o Attach the landing header to the two posts as per drawing xx

Because the optional transition piece and the carriage bolts (that will mount the sill to the sill support brackets) cannot be installed after the posts have been attached to the sill. We need to slide them in place as we put the sill in place.

o Set the transition in place between the posts

o Slide sill through the bottom of the strike post

o Slide 3 carriage bolts into the slot in the bottom of the sill

o Slide the sill the rest of the way until it passes through the bottom of the strike post

o Install (hand tight) the three sill support brackets using the preinstalled carriage bolts, nuts and washers

o Attach door restrictor if code requires


o Attach brackets to the door header (hand tight)

o Lift frame into place in hoistway on the sill support brackets

o Drop the sill carriage bolts into the sill support brackets that were previously mounted to the wall

o Adjust the sill so that:

• The distance between the edge of the cab sill and the edge of the landing sill is 1 ¼ inches or up to local codes and standards

• The sill is still level with the finished landing floor height

o Tighten the three carriage bolts between the sill and the sill support brackets

o Place a long level on the strike post and adjust frame till the strike post is plumb in and out and side to side

o Mark drill and lag the bracket above the strike post in to the wall

o Place a long level on the return post and adjust frame till the return post is plumb in and out and side to side

o Mark drill and lag the bracket above the return post in to the wall

o Recheck the entire frame is level and true. If the cab is level the gap should be a consistent 1 ¼ inches


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46B – Cambrian, 3 speed landing door assembly (M10) Considerations:

If you have frameless landing frames refer to the option section.

The victory landings may come with one large sill support bracket or three small ones.

This procedure suggests locating the sill support bracket(s) and mounting them first, removing the sill and then building the landing frame on saw horses and lifting it into place. Alternatively, the landing frame could be built on the sill in the hoistway.

The transition pieces are optional. Some flooring material can be brought up to the sill without it. We advise checking with the builder.

Materials Required:• Landing frame (M10-C)• Hardware kits that come with the landing frame (M10-H)

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Tools recommended:

• Hammer• Adjustable wrench• 17mm wrench

• Long level• 6mm allen key• Wire cable crimpers (heavy duty)


• For wood walls

o Drill

o Pilot bit ⅛th inch

o Driver for wood lags

• For concrete walls

o Hammer drill

o Concrete bit ⅜th

o Bits for concrete anchors

Procedure:• Install the landing sills

o Attach the three sill support brackets to the sill support with the three carriage bolts

• Attach the landing support bracket and sill support plate to the landing sill

• Attach the landing support to the sill

• Install the nuts and washers, hand tight

o Hold the sill in place so the top of the sill is at the finished landing floor level

o Adjust left and right so the stacking side ends of the two sills line up

o Mark the slot locations on the shaft wall beneath the doorway

o Remove the sill and leave the sill support plate and brackets in place• Assemble the landing frame

We recommend using saw horses as a work surface for assembling the landing frame

o Set the strike post and return post on the saw horses

o Attach the landing header to the two posts as per drawing xx

o Attach the sill support plate to the two posts

Because the transition piece and the carriage bolts (that will mount the sill to the sill support brackets) cannot be installed after the posts have been attached to the sill. We need to slide them in place as we put the sill in place.

o Set the transition in place between the posts

o Slide sill through the bottom of the strike post

o Slide three carriage bolts into the slot in the bottom of the sill

o Slide the sill the rest of the way until it passes through the bottom of the strike post

o Attach door restrictor if code requires

o Attach brackets to door header (hand tight)

o Lift the frame into place in hoistway on the sill support brackets

o Line the sill support bracket with previous measurements

o Lag the sill support loosely to the wall through the slots in the plate.


o Adjust the sill so that

• The distance between the edge of the cab sill and the edge of the landing sill is 1 ¼ inches or up to local codes and standards

• The sill is still level with the finished landing floor height

o Tighten lags holding the sill support to the wall.

o Tighten the 3 three carriage bolts between the sill and the sill support brackets.

o Place a long level on the strike post and adjust frame until the strike post is plumb in and out and side to side.

o Mark, drill and lag the bracket above the strike post in to the wall

o Place a long level on the return post and adjust frame until the return post is plumb in and out and side to side.

o Mark, drill and lag the bracket above the return post in to the wall

o Recheck the entire frame is level and true. If the cab is level, the gap should be a consistent 1 ¼ inches


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47 – Bifold gate / gate operator Materials Required:

1. 3mm allen key/allen key bit

2. #1 Philips bit

3. #2 Robertson bit

4. ½ inch socket and adapter for drill

5. 2 adjustable wrenches

6. 3/16 inch drill bit

7. Drill

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1. Loosen six Philips screws on front of operator and remove cover.

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2. Place sill on the cab floor and install a needle bearing washer and flat washer on each door pivot. NOTE: Washers must be put on sill pivots. First is the washer with the needle bearings, then the flat washer, and lastly the door.


! Do not loosen or move the nuts pointed out in the diagram below. Doing so will compromise the operator’s ability to work correctly.

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3. Set doors on sill pivots, then set operator on top of doors. Ensure the operator pivot sits in the door’s top hole and the flange attached to the pivot sits in the plastic bracket on the door.

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4. Push the operator back until the front flanges are against the front edge of the cab walls. Drill 3/16 inch holes in the center of the slots on the inside of the operator. Install lag bolts with ½ inch socket, but do not tighten fully. NOTE: Position the sill, washers, doors and operator on the cab before anything is fastened.

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5. Level the operator left to right and front to back. NOTE: Sill must be completely square to operator left to right, and front to back.

6. Tighten four lag bolts fully to secure the operator to the cab.

7. Level the doors front to back and left to right to ensure the sill is positioned correctly. Front to back levelling must be done to each door with level on the back edge of the door when it is open. The left to right can be done on just one door with the level on the door pivot. The door will be in its closed position, but folded since the rollers have not been installed yet. Secure sill with three #10 wood screws.

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8. Attach rollers to the doors with a 3mm Allen bit. Do not over-torque as these screws strip easily. Use a roller, two screws, and the backing plate top and bottom of each door. Have the roller bracket approximately ¼” for door edge to start.

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9. Feed connectors through the hole at the back of the operator and make appropriate connections to the board, and the spade connectors (not shown).

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¼”

10.Cycle the door open and closed at least 30 times. If everything functions as expected, place the cover back on the operator, and secure the six Philips screws. NOTE: If the doors stick anywhere when cycling the doors open and closed, move the rollers towards the door edge (towards the center of the cab in 1/16 inch increments). Repeat until successful

11. If the door slaps the return wall when it opens, move the door position flag slightly towards the open side. Adjust in ½ rotation increments.

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12. If the doors stick during operation, move the rollers towards the edge of the door in 1/16 inch increments.

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13.Continue adjustments until trouble free, repeatable operation is achieved. NOTE: Do NOT, under any circumstances, change loosen or move the nuts on the threaded rod except for the door open flag.


48 – Review, settings and start-up Considerations:

• At this point in the installation, everything should be installed and connected. This procedure will take you through each part of the system to do some final adjustments and confirm everything is correct, start up the system in automatic, and set the floor levels.

• Refer to the electrical drawing package (shipped with elevator) page 23 for a description of MCU settings.

Materials Required:• Cable ties (some included with the light curtains, but more may be required)• Tie wrap anchors (some included with the light curtains, but more may be required)• Wire clips, cable clamps, and/or staples (not included)

Tools recommended:• Hammer• Side cutters• 1/16th inch wide slot screwdriver

Procedure:• Cartop

o Customizing MCU settings (refer to electrical detail package page 23 for details).

• The door open / door unlock time can be increased or decreased from the standard 8 seconds, via the unlock door timer adjustment

• The length of time the cab lights stay on after the cab stops moving and the door is closed can be increased or decreased from the standard five minutes. Local codes and standards may apply.

• Options may have been requested at the time of the order and will have been turned on via the dip switches. You may, however, want to turn on some features now if they are required.

• Automatic parking at a specific floor refer to page 23, floor door switch package switch 1 thru 4

• Reducing to levelling speed earlier or later refer to BES3 electrical detail package (included with the shipment) page 23, pump package switch 4 and 5

• The Flood feature moves cab off the lowest floor to the 2nd stop after a timeout, refer to BES3 electrical detail package (included with the shipment) page 23, pump package switch 6

• E- lower (Code compliant power failure response), if on the cab will go to the lowest floor and park upon a power failure refer to BES3 electrical detail package (included with the shipment) page 23, pump package switch 8


• If your pit is less then seven inches you should turn on the shallow pit function. This will shorten the distance the cab can drop before the anti-creep (auto-releveling). See BES3 electrical detail drawings.

o Confirm MCU fuse F1 is 1A and all connections on the board are properly made, refer to page 10 to 16 of the electrical detail package.

• Cab lights

• Light curtain(s)

• Slack rope (outer two terminals)

• Door operator(s)

o Push in and pull out the cartop E-stop switch

o Test the door operators

• Complete the width setup procedure for each operator, refer to BES3 service manual section C.2

• The system should be in service mode and the MCU switch should be on

• Locate and press the enable and the door A test button on the MCU board

• The associated door operator should open and close when you let go of the switches

• Make minor adjustments to the location of each panel and its height above the track that you feel are required to ensure smooth operation

• Repeat with the 2nd and 3rd car gate operator if applicable

• Open each door and then block the associated light curtain. The door should re-open / stay open.

• Troubleshoot any issues using section C of the BES3 service manual

o Tidy up the cables on the cartop using cable ties, strapping and clamps/staples, remove debris and install covers on the boxes.

• Upper hoistway

o Wipe down the rails with rags to remove any residue.

o Check over the sheave assembly, making sure all the bolts are tight and the ropes are riding in the grooves properly

o Confirm the location of the coded strips, sensor head, limit switches, and cam, refer to final drawings.

o Move the elevator up and down using the cartop controls checking for any issues with the ride quality and resolve. Refer to the service manual or section 52A of this manual.

o Check the upper rollers are adjusted properly as per service manual section N

o Check that all upper hoistway wiring is fastened properly


• Elevator cab

o Tidy up the COP inside and out and check that the E-stop button is pulled out

o Install the cab lights. (If not already in place)• Pit and lower hoistway

o Remove any debris from the elevator pit.

o Confirm the slack rope switch is connected and not activated, and the cable will not catch on the sling or safeties. Refer to drawing 54A for details.

o Push and pull out on the pit E-stop.

o Recheck the lower rollers as per service manual section N or section 28 of this manual.

o Recheck the brakes as per service manual section M or section 31 of this manual.

o Check that all lower hoistway wiring, hydraulic and drain line are fastened properly.

o Clean the pit floor.• Landings

o Check that all swing doors have the holes drilled in them for access. The stainless hole plugs to cover the holes come in the large white envelope in the electrical box. We don’t recommend installing them until turnover as they often go missing.

o Check the locks are mounted properly and that everything is aligned correctly

o For Cambrian landing doors, adjust the door contacts so that they make contact ¼ inch before the door closes fully

• Power unit

o Check that all the connections have been made in the junction box and there is pressure on the gauge.

o Anti-shorts should be installed in the BX.

o All cable and BX connectors should be tight.

o Tidy up the box and the cables leaving for the controller

o Install the isolation rubber donuts under the corners of the tank unless already installed.

• Main controller

o Check that all the fuses are the correct type and amperage

o Turn the service key switch on

o Confirm that the 220 and 120vac power sources are on

o Slide the installation switch to the left (normal)


o Slide the high-speed switch to the right (on)

o Close all doors and gates

o Turn the MCU switch on

o The “all safety and gate” LED should be on. if not, note the error code and consult the BES3 service manual

o Turn service mode off

o All the yellow LED’s on the main controller board should be off. If not, note the error code and consult the BES3 service manual

• Turn the MCU switch off and back on

• The elevator should restart by moving up to the top of the shaft

• Down to top floor level

• Back to the top of the shaft,

• Down to the bottom of the top coded strip

• Up to floor level.

If the system does not restart or does not complete the restart, process refer to BES3 service manual section R

o When it stops moving the top floor number should display on the controller’s screen If an error code is shown, refer to the BES3 service manual for details on the probable cause

• Running the elevator in automatic

o Call the elevator to each floor via the hall call stations and confirm the following:

• The elevator stops within 2 ½ inches of level at the top floor and within 3 ½ inches of level at all others. If not, note the distance high or low the cab is out of level at those floors and then move the coded strips that distance.

• The locks and operators operate properly. If there are any issues, refer to the appropriate section of the BES3 service manual.

• Any DPI’s function properly

• If there are any issues, refer to the BES3 service manual.

o Place a call to each floor from the cab COP

• Confirm the call buttons work properly

• Confirm the COP DPI operates properly

• While the cab is moving press in the E-stop. The cab should stop and the buzzer should sound.

o Level the cab at each floor

• Call the elevator to a floor

• Inside the COP, press the two enable buttons and hold


• Inside the COP, press the up and down buttons to move the cab until it is level

• When level, release the two enable buttons

• Repeat the above steps for each floor

Note: For “true through” cabs it doesn’t matter which call you used to get to the floor.

Note: Restart the elevator, in order to make sure any changes made have not affected the start-up process.


49 – Handrail(s)Considerations:

• Typically, handrails are mounted centered on one of the walls at 36 inches off the finished floor, but the homeowner may want a different height or location.

Materials Required:• Handrail(s) with supplied mounting hardware

Tools recommended:• Battery operated drill• ½-inch drill bit • #2 Philips screwdriver (four inches or longer)• 1/8th inch Allen key

Procedure:• Determine the mounting height and location• To center the handrail on a wall

o Measure the width of the wall, this will be called measurement X

o Measure the distance between the mounting holes on the handrail. This will be called measurement Y

o The distance from the wall to the first mounting hole will be (X-Y) divided by 2., This will be called measurement Z

o At the mounting height, measure from the left wall over measurement Z, and mark the location of the left mounting hole.

o At the mounting height, measure from the right wall over measurement Z, and mark the location of the right mounting hole.

o Confirm the locations marked line up with the handrail mounting points. This is done by holding up the handrail to the wall

• Drill a half inch hole at each location• Remove the standoffs from the handrail using a 1/8th inch allen key• Follow the instructions inside the mounting hardware package to attach the standoffs to

the wall

Note: be sure that the allen keys are facing down • Place the handrail over the standoffs and tighten the allen keys


49A – Handrail

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50 – Final cleaning Considerations:

• Windows, glass cabs, glass sliding doors etc. will require some extra attention when doing a final cleaning. Refer to the Options section for details.

• Unfinished wood surfaces should not be cleaned. It’s best to leave this to the people who will be finishing the cab.

Materials Required:• A mild cleaner appropriate for painted and laminated surfaces (not included)• A window cleaning spray (not included)• A stainless-steel cleaner (not included)• Soft clean cloths or paper towels (not included)• Rags not included

Tools recommended:• Shop type vacuum• Dustpan and brush • Broom• #2 Philips screwdriver

Procedure:• Inside Cab

o Remove the plastic film from all stainless surfaces such as the COP, door panels and possibly walls and trim

Note: It may be necessary to use a sharp knife blade or razor blade to cut the film as close to any overlapping edges as possible. Tip: A sharpened piece of copper will not scratch stainless and can be very useful in scoring the plastic without scratching the stainless underneath.

o Remove any protective floor covering

o Sweep out the cab floor

o Vacuum the floor, gate sill and any hard to get at areas

o Wipe down the entire cab with clean dry cloths, including the ceiling

o Use appropriate cleaners to clean melamine, painted, stainless, aluminium and glass surfaces

o If the finished flooring is installed, it’s best to consult with the general contractor on if and how to clean the floor

o Remove the plastic covering the telephone and wipe down the phone and its cabinet


o Clean the back of the DPI lens and the DPI

o Install the cover on the COP and make sure it is parallel to the walls and flush

o Depending on the job site conditions, the finished floor may need to be covered. Consult with the general contractor

• Power unit

o Check for any hydraulic fluid leaks since the last time you cleaned around the valve and fittings as this may indicate there may be a small leak that needs to be corrected

o Turn off the 120 and 220 disconnects

o Tidy the inside of the electrical junction box. Warning: On single phase motors, the large capacitors can carry an electric charge even after the power has been turned off.

o Wipe down the entire power unit using a mild cleaner if necessary. Be careful not to contaminate the hydraulic oil in the tank.

• Main controller

o Turn off the 220 and the 120 disconnects

o Tidy the inside of the main controller. A dry paintbrush can be used to dust the inside if necessary.

o Remove the plastic film from the window in the door

o Clean the outside of the controller and the back of the door with mild cleaners appropriate for the painted surfaces, stickers and the plastic window.

o Make sure the keys are still in the key switches.

o Connect the customer’s phone line to the main controller

o The homeowner’s copies of the paperwork (white envelope) should be left with the end user (typically they are left on top of the controller)

• The shaft

o Check over the pit, top of car and shaft and vacuum and wipe down if required.

Note: Be sure to clean the positioning systems sensors with a paintbrush or a clean soft cloth.

• Landings

o Call stations

▪ Wipe down the call stations and make sure they are straight and flush

o Interlocks

▪ Wipe them down and confirm the holes were drilled for access. The plugs for the access holes can be installed just before handover and the customer walk through.

o Landing frames and door panels


▪ Remove and plastic film from stainless parts

▪ Clean the painted or stainless surfaces with appropriate cleaners.


51 - Testing and adjusting up movement NOTE: If the controls have been drastically altered you may have to reset all settings to default (refer to section 52A) before proceeding. This procedure and section D.3 can then be followed to fine-tune the settings.

1. Put the system in service mode. 2. Run the elevator from the cartop controls and observe the following.

NOTE: Alternatively, the system could be in installation mode and you could use the installers remote to move the elevator.

3. Press and hold the enable and up button. 4. The elevator should start to move approximately one second after you send the

command:a. This can be adjusted. If the delay is longer or shorter refer to: section 52A–

adjustment 1.b. If the elevator will not move up:

i. Confirm that the contactors are pulling in.ii. Confirm that the up solenoid is getting power and becomes magnetized.iii. Refer to section 52A – adjustment 1 and 2 and reset them to the default

setting.c. If the elevator only reaches a levelling speed of 1 ½ to 2 inches per second:

i. Confirm the high-speed switch on the main controller is ON.ii. Confirm the high-speed solenoid on the blain valve is getting power and

becomes magnetized.5. The elevator should accelerate up to 7 to 9 inches per second in approximately 2

seconds:a. If it takes more or less time to accelerate, refer to section 52A – Adjustment 2.

6. If possible, have someone slide the high-speed switch to the OFF position while the elevator is traveling at full speed. It is located on the main controller board.

7. The elevator should slow to a levelling speed of 1 ½ to 2 inches per second: a. This can be adjusted. Refer to section 52A – Adjustment 4.

NOTE: if the up-levelling speed is set below 1.2 inches per second the elevator may not move up from a start in levelling speed. If set just above this speed, temperature changes and a change to the weight of the car could cause it to not move up in levelling speed from a stop.

8. This deceleration should take 1 to 2 seconds:a. This can be adjusted, refer to section 52A – Adjustment 3.

9. You can move the elevator up and down and control the speed via the high-speed switch while adjusting the valve until you are happy with the settings.


51A – Blain valve up adjustments


52 -Testing and adjusting down movement NOTE: if the controls have been drastically altered you may have to reset all settings to default (refer to section 52A) before proceeding. This procedure and section 52A can then be followed to fine-tune the settings.

1. Put the system in service mode. 2. Run the elevator from the cartop controls and observe the following.

NOTE: Alternatively, the system could be in installation mode and you could use the installers remote to move the elevator.

3. Press and hold the enable and down buttons. 4. The elevator should accelerate to 7 to 9 inches per second within 2 seconds:

a. This can be adjusted, if the down acceleration is less or more: section 52A – adjustment 6.

b. If the elevator is faster or slower than 7 to 9 inches per second when traveling at full speeds:

i. Adjust the down full speed, Refer to section 52A – adjustment 7.c. If the elevator will not move down:

i. Confirm that the down solenoid on the blain valve is getting power and become magnetized.

ii. Refer to section D.3 – adjustment 6 and 7 and reset them to the default setting.

d. If the elevator only reaches a levelling speed of 1 ½ to 2 inches per second:i. Confirm the high-speed switch on the main controller is ON.ii. Confirm the high-speed solenoid on the blain valve is getting power and

becomes magnetized.5. If possible, have someone slide the high-speed switch to the OFF position while you are

traveling at full speed. It is located on the main controller board.6. The elevator should slow to a levelling speed of 1 ½ to 2 inches per second:

a. This can be adjusted, refer to section 52A – Adjustment 9.7. The elevator should slow from full speed to levelling speed quickly and smoothly:

a. This can be adjusted, refer to section 52A – Adjustment 8.NOTE: If this setting is set for a longer slow down time the elevator may overshoot the floor and level back up when traveling down to a floor, (coasting past the floor).

8. You can move the elevator up and down and control the speed via the high-speed switch while adjusting the valve until you are happy with the settings.


52A – Blain valve down adjustments

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53 - Setup and adjustment of the Cambridge Elevating Hydraulic Power Unit. Note: The power unit is tested and pre-adjusted when shipped. Use this page for fine-tuning.

Adjustment #1 (BP) – Up Delay FUNCTION- Determines the length of the delay from pump start to car movement.PRESET- Adjust so that the screw is flush with the casing.OPERATION- Turn in (clockwise) for less delay.SETTING – Adjust so that the delay is approximately one second.

Adjustment #2 (UA) – Up Acceleration FUNCTION- This adjustment determines how long it takes the elevator to reach full speed from a stop.PRESET- Gently turn the adjustment in (clockwise) until stop and then turn it out (counterclockwise) one turn. OPERATION- Turning the adjustment in (clockwise) will cause the elevator to take longer to reach full speed.SETTING- Adjust this setting so that the car takes approximately 2 seconds to reach full speed.

Adjustment #3 (UD) – Up Full Speed Deceleration. FUNCTION- This adjustment determines how quickly the car slows down to levelling speed.PRESET- Gently turn the adjustment in (clockwise) until stop and then turn it out (counterclockwise) one turn.OPERATION- Turning the adjustment in (clockwise) will increase the time it takes to slow down to levelling speed from full speed.SETTING- Adjust this setting so that the transition to levelling speed is quick but not uncomfortable (1 to 2 seconds).

Adjustment #4 (UL) – Up Levelling Speed. FUNCTION- This adjustment determines the levelling speed in the up direction.PRESET- Adjust until the screw is flush with the casing.OPERATION- Turning it in will decrease the levelling speed.SETTING- Adjust this setting so that the levelling speed is approximately 8-10 feet per minute (1 ½ to 2 inches per second). The best way to set this is to turn off the high-speed switch located on the main controller board, the elevator will run at levelling speed.

Adjustment #5 (US) – Up Levelling Speed Deceleration FUNCTION- This adjustment determines how quickly the elevator stops when in levelling speed.PRESET- Do not adjust, this adjustment is not used for residential systems.OPERATION- N/ASETTING- N/A


Adjustment #6 (DA) – Down Acceleration NOTE: Adjustment 6 can be affected by adjustment 8.

FUNCTION- This adjustment determines how long it takes the elevator to reach full speed from a stop. PRESET- Gently turn it in (clockwise) until stop and then turn it out (counterclockwise) one turn.OPERATION- Turning it in (clockwise) will cause the elevator to take longer to reach full speed.SETTING- Adjust this setting so that it takes the car 2 seconds to reach full speed.

Adjustment #7 (DF) – Down Full Speed FUNCTION- This adjustment determines the cars speed in the down direction.PRESET- Adjust it until the screw is flush with the casing.OPERATION- Turn it in to reduce the down speed.SETTING- Adjust it so that the car travels up and down at the same speed.

Adjustment #8 (DD) – Down Deceleration NOTE: Adjustment 8 can affect adjustment 6 FUNCTION- This adjustment determines how quickly the elevator transitions from full speed to levelling speed and from levelling speed to a stop.PRESET- Gently turn it in (clockwise) until stop then turn it out (counterclockwise) one turn.OPERATION- Turn it in to increase the time it takes to reduce speed.SETTING-Adjust this setting so that speed changes are quick but smooth.

Adjustment #9 (DL) – Down Levelling Speed FUNCTION- This adjustment determines the speed of the car when traveling down in levelling speed.PRESET- Adjust it until the screw is flush with the casing.OPERATION- Turn it in to reduce the levelling speed.SETTING- Adjust this setting so that the levelling speed is approximately 10 feet per minute (2 inches in per second).


53A – Blain valve adjustments


54 – Testing the low-pressure switch and the slack rope switch

Considerations:• When the elevator is lowered into the pit, the slack rope switch and the low-pressure

switch will both activate. Typically, the slack rope switch will activate first. We will use that fact during this test. If the low-pressure switch comes on first, you may need to jumper it out in order to test the slack rope switch due to the order in which they are wired.



Procedure:• Ensure the system is operating normally in automatic• Turn service mode on with the key switch inside the main controller• Close the main ball valve• Slowly release the pressure with the manual lowering red knob on the hydraulic power

unit• The “all safeties and gate closed” LED should go out before the low-pressure switch

causes the “thermal and low pressure” and the “pit stop closed” LED to go out.• If the slack rope switch does not activate, investigate and adjust the switch if

necessary.• Close the ball valve• Turn the manual lowering red knob for 30 seconds• The “thermal and low-pressure LED” should go out

o If the switch does not activate, it can be adjusted with a small screwdriver via a screw on the end of the low-pressure switch


54A – Slack rope switch detail


55 – Setting and testing the line rupture valve (H5)Considerations:

• The below procedure is for the OLS Line rupture valve. If the system utilizes a flow control or a blain line rupture valve, please refer to the appropriate option section in this manual.

• Down full speed should be set to 40 to 50 feet per minute. It is typically set to match full speed up.

Materials Required:• Wire seal

Tools recommended:• 4mm allen key• 13mm socket

Procedure:• Load the elevator car to capacity• Send the cart to the top floor• Access the line rupture valve

• Remove the cap from the adjuster on the top of the LRV. Refer to diagram 55A

• Loosen the brass locknut with the 13mm wrench. Refer to diagram 55A

• Turn the adjuster in (clockwise) one full turn using the 4mm allen key. Refer to diagram 55A

• Call the elevator down • If the LRV did not trip, repeat the previous 2 steps until the LRV trips stopping down

movement• Send the elevator car to the top floor• Turn the LRV adjustment out (counterclockwise) 3 turns using the 4mm allen key• Tighten the brass locknut to lock in the adjustment• Reinstall the cap onto the adjuster • Seal the adjuster by installing a wire seal through the small holes in the cap and around

the fittings


55A – Line rupture valve (H5) detail

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56 – Setting and testing the PRV valve Considerations:

• The pressure relief valve is part of the blain hydraulic valve that limits the pressure that can build in the system. The PRV should be set at 1 ¼ times the max working pressure.

Materials Required:• Test weights totalling the capacity of the elevator

Tools recommended:• 3mm allen key

Procedure:

• Remove the cap that covers the adjustment, refer to diagram 55A

• Loosen the set screw that locks the adjustment, refer to diagram 55A• Determine the max working pressure

o Run the elevator up at full speed while loaded to capacity

o Multiply the max working pressure by 1 ¼ to determine the pressure the PRV should be set at

NOTE: The maximum pressure a power unit can be set it is marked on the tag which is shipped with the unit. This pressure will be either 750psi or the pressure produced when the motor is diagram 26 Amps, whichever is less.

• Test the current PRV pressure setting

o While the elevator is running up at full speed, close the ball valve next to the blain valve

o Note the maximum pressure that the gauge reads

o Open the ball valve• If the maximum pressure was more pressure than the PRV should be set at, turn the

adjustment counterclockwise one full turn• Retest the PRV pressure• If the current PRV setting is determined to be less then the current setting:

o Run the elevator up at full speed

o Close the ball valve

o Turn the adjustment in slowly until the PRV setting is correct (max working pressure X 1 ¼th)

NOTE: The maximum pressure a power unit can be set is marked on the tag which is shipped with the unit. This pressure will be either 750psi or the pressure produced when the motor is diagram 26 Amps, whichever is less.


56A – Setting and testing the PRV valve


57 – Testing the telephone Considerations:

• A working telephone line will need to be connected to the line filter on the side of the main controller


Tools recommended:• A test telephone or butt set can be useful for troubleshooting

Procedure:• Open the phone cabinet in the COP• Pick up the phone and confirm there is a dial tone• Call your office • The communication should be clear and easily understandable


57A – Telephone line detail

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58 – Power fail test Considerations:

• There are two ways the elevator can respond to a power failure. Refer to section 48 of this manual for details and how to choose the two options



Procedure:• Confirm that the elevator is operating normally in automatic• Send the elevator to the top floor

• While it is running up turn off the breaker that feeds to elevators disconnect. DO NOT turn the disconnect off

• The emergency lights inside the COP should turn on• The elevator will move down to the nearest floor below its current location and unlock

the door for 20 seconds• If the E-lower function is selected via the MCU switch, 30 seconds after the power

failure the elevator will move down to the bottom floor and unlock/open the door for 20 seconds


59 – Final inspection Considerations:

• Some options such as keypads and key-switches may require extra steps to test them. Refer to the relevant section for your options.

• The objective is to confirm and document that the elevator is 100% complete


Tools recommended:• Access keys

Procedure: • Hoistway: Check the following at each landing

o Call station:

□ Blue light in standby

□ Green light during a call

□ Mounted correctly

□ Clean

□ Each one calls the elevator to the correct landing

o DPI call station:

□ Turn on service mode and restart the elevator

□ Every DPI displays the numbers 1 thru 7 and repeats

□ Up and down arrows operate correctly

❖ Landing interlock (if equipped):

□ Each lock unlocks when the elevator arrives

□ Send car away, and confirm the car stops when the door is opened

□ Use the unlock tool to open the door from the landing

□ The lock is clean and soundly mounted

o Cambrian landing doors and frame:

□ The fast door is a ¼ inch from the jam at the top and the bottom

□ The other door panel(s) are parallel

□ Send the elevator to another floor and manually unlock the door with the access key and confirm the elevator stops.

□ Check that the doors close on their own via the return spring

□ Confirm the door panels line up properly when fully open


□ Confirm the panels do not rub each other

□ The door panels are clean and free of blemishes

□ The track is clean and undamaged• Elevator Cab

□ COP

o Call buttons: Every call button operates properly

□ Blue light in standby

□ Green light during a call

□ Each calls the elevator to the appropriate floor

❖ E-stop: operates properly

□ Stops the cab

□ Cancels call

□ Activates the buzzer

❖ Buzzer button: operates properly

□ Activates buzzer

□ Lights up blue normally

□ Lights up green when pressed

❖ Telephone: operable

□ Dials out

□ Clear communication

❖ DPI: display all numbers correctly (1 thru 7 and/or any special letters)

□ Turn service mode on and restart the elevator

□ The display should scroll through all characters in order

□ If there are any issues refer to the service manual section H

❖ Emergency lights

□ They are on when service mode is on

❖ Quality and cleanliness: COP is ready for the end user

□ Clean

□ Phone door opens and closes properly

□ Straight and flush

□ Free of scratches


❖ Cab lights:

□ Working

□ All same colour

□ Clean

□ Flush to ceiling

❖ Cab surfaces, walls, floors, and ceiling

□ Joints are tight

□ No marks or blemishes

□ Clean

❖ Gate

□ Clean

□ Free of blemishes

□ Operates smoothly

□ Track clean

□ OLS victory and Porta door operators

□ Light curtain keeps the door open

❖ Elmira

□ Light curtain being blocked prevents car from taking a call

□ This can be tested by using opaque tape to block the light curtain and then closing the gate and attempting to call the elevator away.

❖ Upper hoistway

□ Final limit switch: operates

□ Activate the topmost switch while going up in service mode and confirm it stops the lift

❖ Cartop:

□ Clean and tidy

□ Covers on all boxes

❖ Cartop E-stop

□ Activate while moving up in service mode and confirm the lift stops

□ Accessible from the upper landing• Lower hoistway:

❖ Pit E-stop

□ Stops elevator and cancels call


❖ Pit

□ Cables and hoses attached to walls

□ No leaks

□ Drain line run to tank or bottle

□ Rope ends are the correct length and clipped properly

□ Shackles are bound together• Machine room

❖ Hydraulic power unit

□ Clean

□ Wires tidy

□ No leaks

□ Manual lowering tested

❖ Main controller

□ Clean

□ Wires tidy

□ Manuals left on top of controller

□ Access key given (or will be given) to end user)• Operation

□ Cab is level at each landing

□ Ride is smooth in both directions

□ Ride is quiet

□ Automatic doors operate smoothly

□ Running clearance as per diagrams

□ 3 x 5 rule met at each landing

□ The back of the landing door to the edge of the landing floor cannot exceed 3 inches

□ The back of the landing door to the back of the gate cannot exceed 5 inches


60 – Customer training Considerations:

• The objective is to make sure the customer understands how their new elevator operates. What common error codes and sounds mean, maintenance procedures and how to rescue someone from the elevator.

• Some extra features such as windows and keypads for example, may also require explanation to the customer. Refer to the section for the options in question

Materials Required:• Homeowner operator manual

Tools recommended:• Hoistway access key or unlock tool

Procedure:• Operation from the landing

o Place a call from every landing

▪ Explain how the buttons will only work if they are lit up blue

▪ Demonstrate how they turn green when pressed

▪ Explain how only a momentary press is required

▪ If the call stations have DPI’s explain how they work

o The door unlocks or opens

▪ Note the “beep beep” sound when the swing door unlocks

o Code 343

▪ Elmira only - Explain that if they call the elevator. They need to open the manual gate or a code343 will activate. Explain that this is a code-driven safety feature to prevent children from being injured.

▪ Demonstrate code 343 by placing a call, opening the landing door, not opening the gate, and closing the landing door

▪ Call the elevator properly to reset the fault

o Porta, Heritage and Cambrian: demonstrate how the light curtain causes the door to stop and reopen.

o Demonstrate what happens if you block the curtain for a long time

o Demonstrate dumb-waitering

▪ Place a COP call then get out of cab and close door• Operation from the elevator cab

o Place a call to every floor

o Demonstrate cab E-stop during travel


▪ Demonstrate buzzer button

▪ Explain how DPI works and what fault codes they may see

▪ Demonstrate phone• Emergency operation

o Demonstrate a power failure

▪ Use the main breaker feeding the elevator disconnect to turn off the 220Vac to the system

▪ Explain how if in upwards travel during a power failure the elevator will automatically go down to the floor below its current location.

o Explain the battery system and what works during a power failure

▪ The elevator will take down calls

▪ Emergency lights illuminate

▪ Door operators will continue to function

▪ Explain how the system must recharge the batteries once the power comes back on

• Introduction to the main controller and hydraulic power unit

o Explain and show them the following

▪ Main disconnect

▪ Lighting disconnect

▪ Main controller• Display• Call station security key

▪ Hydraulic power unit• Ball valve

o Location of information package, unlocking device and keys• Demonstrate entrapment procedures

o Exiting the cab when in the door zone

o Access the cab from the landing when in the door zone

o When the cab is not in the door zone

▪ Lowering the cab to the pit• Care and maintenance

Note: Most elevator cabs have a mixture of materials. Use warm soap and water where possible as many of the materials abut each other.


Note: The end user should be aware that water dripping down the shaft between the cab and landing when cleaning should be avoided.

o Cleaning - explain how to clean each type of material

▪ Stainless surfaces• Stainless steel cleaner and a soft cloth

▪ Melamine surfaces• Mild household cleansers

▪ Finished wood surfaces• Soap and water and a soft cloth

▪ Aluminum surfaces• Soap and water and a soft cloth

▪ Plated surfaces• Soap and water and a soft cloth

▪ Glass surfaces• Glass cleaner and a soft cloth• Be careful of wood or stainless trim

▪ Flooring • Care should be taken where flooring and other material meet, as

some floor cleaners may cause issues with stainless and wood surfaces.

▪ Light curtains• Soap and water and a soft cloth

▪ Door sills• Vacuum them regularly

• Review the above training using the homeowner package included with your other documents.

o Explain parts and labour warranty coverage and procedures.

o If possible, demonstrate the remote monitoring website using your smartphone, tablet or laptop.

o Discuss regular maintenance and your company’s preventive maintenance program.


60-GLOSSARY

120Vac- This power comes in via the lighting disconnect and powers up the 12Vdc supply in the main controller, which then powers the car lights. The actual voltage can vary from 110Vac to 130Vac.12Vdc- The power supplied by the 12Vdc lighting supply in the main controller. The actual voltage can vary slightly.24Vdc- The main system power. It is supplied by the 24Vdc power supply in the main controller and the batteries. The actual voltage can range between 21Vdc and 29Vdc, depending on the load on the system and the capacity of the batteries. Anti-creep- A hydraulic elevator will normally slowly leak some hydraulic oil back into the hydraulic power units tank. The oil is also affected by temperature, and when a weight is placed in the elevator the oil can compress slightly. For these reasons, over time the elevator can “creep” down slightly and no longer be level. The system detects this and re-levels the elevator by running the power unit for a few seconds. This system is often called anti-creep or auto-leveling.Automatic- This term is used in this manual to describe the normal operation of the elevator, as opposed to service mode, install mode, power failure mode or shutdown mode. Call security key-switch- a key operated switch that is usually mounted in the exterior bottom right corner of the main controller. This key-switch “turns off” all the call stations, the elevator can still be run from inside the elevator car, in order to complete any call that was in progress.Call station- A button located outside the elevator usually near a landing door on each floor level, it can include a digital display which shows the current floor level the elevator is at.Cambrian- A Cambridge Elevating elevator model name, this style of elevator has an automatic sliding gate inside the elevator car and at each landing.Capacity- As used in this manual it refers to the amount of weight the elevator is authorized to lift. This can be dependent on both the design and local code requirements.Car- Sometimes referred to as Cab (short for cabinet), it refers to the actual compartment that moves people (and pets) up and down.Car light(s)- The lights in the elevator car.Car Operating Panel- The control panel inside the elevator car with the call buttons, emergency lights, digital floor display, emergency stop button, and emergency telephone. Cartop MCU board- The circuit board mounted on the roof of the elevator car inside the cartop box. This circuit board contains the micro-processor that controls the automatic operation of the elevator.Cat5e cables- Also known as “network cables”, these cables connect the call stations, locks to the main controller and the COP to the cartop MCU board. Cat6 cables can also be used (but they generally cost more).Charger- Battery charger.Charging system- The charging system consist of a 24Vdc power supply, a diode and a resistor.Coded strip- The custom positioning system used by Cambridge Elevating consists of a U shaped, bent metal strip with slots on one side mounted on the rail and a set of three optical sensors mounted on the car-top.


Concentric rollers- One of three types of rollers that guide the elevator along the rails. The Concentric rollers are not adjustable and carry the weight of the elevator car. These rollers are currently off-white in colour.Connections- As used in this manual, this refers to the wire, plugs on the wires, and connectors on the circuit board, that together connect the devices to the circuit boards.Contactor- A contactor is a large relay that is used to supply power to a motor.Contactor auxiliary- A contact (switch) that is mounted to a contactor and is operated whenever the contactor turns on and off.Contactor overload- A device attached to the output side of a contactor that activates a contact (switch) when the current going through it to the motor is over the current setting on the device.COP- Car operating panel. The control panel inside the elevator car with the call buttons, emergency lights, digital position indicator, emergency stop button, and emergency telephone.Diagnostic display unit- A tool that allows a technician to access more information from the computer via a handheld display. This includes access to a historical log, the current battery voltage, the capacity of the batteries, the speed of the elevator and other information.Digital Position Indicator- A display that can be inside the elevator car and can be at each landing. These displays show the current location of the elevator. Typically abbreviated as DPI.DIP switch- “Dual Inline Package” refers to the groups (packages) of small switches on the cartop MCU board that are used to configure the elevator and activate options. Door contact- A “normally closed” switch that “opens” when the elevator landing door is open. Door operator- Also called a “Gate operator”, the terms refer to a motorized device that opens and closes the elevator car gate.Door zone- An area near floor level where a landing door is able to open. This term is used in this manual to describe the sensor that is part of the positioning system that detects the solid side of the coded strip.DPI- Digital Position Indicator. A display that can be inside the elevator car and can be at each landing. These displays show the current location of the elevator. Typically abbreviated as DPI. Eccentric rollers- One of three types of rollers that guide the elevator along the rails. The eccentric rollers are adjustable and you should be able to turn them by hand. These rollers are currently blue.Elmira- A Cambridge Elevating elevator model name, this style of elevator has manual accordion style gate inside the elevator car and swing type doors at each landing.Emergency light- LED lights inside the COP that turn on during a power failure and when the system is in service mode.E-stop- Emergency stop. A switch that stops the elevator when it is pressed. BES3 has E-stop buttons located under the elevator car on the roof of the elevator car and inside the elevator car.Gate- The door inside the elevator car.Heritage- A Cambridge Elevating elevator model name, this style of elevator has automatic gate inside the elevator car and swing type doors at each landing.High speed switch- A switch inside the main controller on the main controller board that turns the high speed valves on the hydraulic.


Hoistway- The elevator shaft. In this manual it used to refer to devices and wiring that are in the shaft as opposed to devices on the elevator car and wiring that goes to the elevator car.Homeowner- The person who is able to authorize you to work on a particular elevator. Generally this term is used to refer to the person who owns and is responsible for maintaining the elevator, but it could be a renter or delegate. HPU- Hydraulic power unit. Sometimes referred to as “the pump” or “power unit”, it refers to the assembly consisting of a tank, electric motor, hydraulic valve assembly, and hydraulic oil pump.Hydraulic Power Unit- HPU. Sometimes referred to as “the pump” or “power unit”, it refers to the assembly consisting of a tank, electric motor, hydraulic valve assembly, and hydraulic oil pump.Installation mode- controlled by a slide switch located on the main controller board, it is a mode of operation in which all the safeties circuits are bypassed in order to allow a technician to move the elevator up and down the shaft during construction with a remote pendant control that is connected directly to the main controller.Interlock- A device that prevents the landing door from opening when the elevator car is not at the floor. For BES3 systems this can be a mechanical device that is part of the victory landing door system, or an electrical mechanical locking device.Landing door- A door at a floor that covers the opening into the elevator car.LED- Light emitting diode. In this document it refers to the small green and yellow lights on the circuit boards that are used to indicate which parts of the system have voltage and functions that are active.Left hand- Describing left and right hand swing doors, accordion style gates and sliding gates and landings can be problematic if we are not all using the terms in the same way. A left hand swing door is one that when you are standing on the landing facing the door the door knob is on the left. A lock for this door would be a left hand lock and the part number has an “L” in it. Victory sliding (2 and 3 panel) car and landing doors, when standing at the landing they close on the left side. The landing frames are described the same way. Woodfold accordion style gates are different then other doors and gates. The left hand accordion gate when seen from the landing stacks on the left side of the car, and closes on the right side.Leveling speed- All our elevators have two speeds. Leveling speed describes the slower of the two speeds and is generally set to 8 to 10 feet per second (1.5 to 2 inches per second).Light curtain- All our elevators are equipped with light curtains (sometimes called light screens) across the car openings. For openings that have automatic gates the light curtains keep an open door from closing when an object or person is in the opening. For manual car gates the light curtain prevents the elevator from moving when someone or something is in the opening. A set of light curtains consist of a power unit, two cables, a transmitter and a receiver.Light curtain power unit- is a module located inside the cartop box that supplies power to and receives signals from the light curtains. It has a relay inside that changes state (opens and closes the contact) when the light curtains’ beams are blocked or the light curtains are disconnected.Line Rupture Valve- LRV. A black box which is attached directly to the side of the hydraulic cylinder. This device closes off the flow of hydraulic oil coming from the hydraulic cylinder is the flow is faster than the setting of the device.Lock- Interlock. A device that prevents the landing door from opening when the elevator car is not at the floor. For BES3 systems this can be a mechanical device that is part of the Victory landing door system, or an electrical mechanical locking device.


Low pressure switch- Negative pressure switch. A device mounted onto the side of the Blain Hydraulic valve that detects when the pressure drops to near zero inside the hydraulic system and opens a contact that is monitored by the system.LRV- Line rupture valve. A black box which is attached directly to the side of the hydraulic cylinder. This device closes off the flow of hydraulic oil coming from the hydraulic cylinder is the flow is faster than the setting of the device.Main controller- The large black box, typically located near the HPU, that contains the batteries, the main controller circuit board, and the 24Vdc and 12Vdc power supplies.MCU- Describes the microcontroller chip that is mounted on the cartop MCU board.MCU power switch- The slide switch located on the main controller board that turns off the power to the MCU.MCU program- The program that runs on the MCU chip and thus controls the elevators major functions.Microprocessor- Describes the microcontroller chip that is mounted on the cartop MCU board.Monitoring system- The system designed by Cambridge Elevating that transmits packets of information from the MCU chip to our online web portal. Dealers are able to access this information via any web enabled device.Negative pressure switch- Low pressure switch. A device mounted onto the side of the Blain Hydraulic valve that detects when the pressure drops to near zero inside the hydraulic system and opens a contact that is monitored by the system.Pit- The area within the elevator shaft that is below the lowest floor level.Porta door operator- A 24Vdc powered gate operator that automatically opens and closes accordion type gates.Positioning system- a system that allows the microprocessor to know where it is in the hoistway so that it knows when to slow down, stop, open the gate, and unlock the landing door.Power fail relays- Relays which are continually powered by a power source in order to detect when the source turns off. Our BES3 system uses a 12vdc relay ion the main controller board to monitor the cab lighting power and a 220Vac relay located in the top of the Main controller box to monitor the 220Vac supply.Preset- This term is used in the Hydraulic power unit section of the manual to describe the default setting of the various adjustments on the Blain valve. These setting suggestions should be used as a starting point if the valve is having major issues related to its settings.Pressure Relief Valve- Located within the blain hydraulic valve, the PRV limits the pressure the power unit will output. The pump will continue to run but the excess oil will be dumped back into the tank. PRV- Pressure Relief Valve Located within the blain hydraulic valve, the PRV limits the pressure the power unit will output. The pump will continue to run but the excess oil will be dumped back into the tank.Pump- Hydraulic Power Unit- HPU. Sometimes referred to as “the pump” or “power unit”, it refers to the assembly consisting of a tank, electric motor, hydraulic valve assembly, and hydraulic oil pump.Re-level- Also known as Anti-creep. A hydraulic elevator will normally slowly leak some hydraulic oil back into the hydraulic power unit’s tank. The oil is also affected by temperature, and when a weight is placed in the elevator the oil can compress slightly. For these reasons,


over time the elevator can “creep” down slightly and no longer be level. The system detects this and re-levels the elevator by running the power unit for a few seconds. This system is often called anti-creep or auto-leveling.Remote Monitoring module- A small black box located on the cartop that communicates with our online web portal via the cell phone network.Remote Monitoring report- a page on the online web portal from which all the information sent from the elevator can be reviewed.Remote Monitoring System- Monitoring system- The system designed by Cambridge Elevating that transmits packets of information from the MCU chip to our online web portal. Dealers are able to access this information via any web enabled device.Restart system- Some system codes require the microprocessor to be power down and back up again. This can be accomplished by sliding the MCU switch (located on the main controller board) to the left and then back to the right, or by turning the main disconnect off and on again.Right hand- Describing left and right hand swing doors, accordion style gates and sliding gates and landings can be problematic if we are not all using the terms in the same way. A right hand swing door is one that when you are standing on the landing facing the door the door knob is on the right. A lock for this door would be a right hand lock and the part number has an “R” in it. Victory sliding (2 and 3 panel) car and landing doors, when standing at the landing they close on the right side. The landing frames are described the same way. Woodfold accordion style gates are different than other doors and gates. The right hand accordion gate when seen from the landing stacks on the right side of the car, and closes on the left side.Safety device- This term is used in this manual to describe the various devices that for safety reasons will prevent the elevator from moving. These devices include the E-stop’s, low pressure switch, slack rope switch, and others.Sensor head- Part of the positioning system that detects the coded strips as they pass and sends information to the MCU, which can then determine where the elevator is.Service key-switch- A key operated switch located in the main controller that is used to put the system in service mode. When in service mode the system can only be moved up and down from the cartop controls.Service mode- A key operated switch located in the main controller that is used to put the system in service mode. When in service mode the system can only be moved up and down from the cartop controls.Setting floor levels- A procedure where the level at which the elevator car stops at any floor can be adjusted up and down several inches without entering the hoistway.Setting number of stops- A procedure where the number of stops (floors) the system is looking for is set, (2 to 6).Shutdown- A mode that is activated when there is a major issue with the elevator that may affect safety. The elevator will not take calls when it is shutdown.Side rollers- One of three types of rollers that guide the elevator along the rails. The side rollers are adjustable and you should be able to turn them by hand. These rollers are currently blue.Slack rope switch- A switch that is mounted on the car frame (sling) near the brake system (safeties) and is activated when the ropes are slack.Standby voltage- The system voltage (batteries and charging system together) while the elevator is not in use.Stop(s)- floor(s).


System code- Numbers that are displayed on the systems DPI’s, at the main controller and sent to the historical log and to the Remote Monitoring System. These codes can then be interpreted to determine what the cause of the issue is.System voltage- The 24Vdc that the BES3 system operates on.Technical support- A department within Cambridge elevating where magic is used to diagnose any problems that cannot be solved with this manual. Technician- An elevator technician (miracle worker).Technician reset- Some system codes represent major safety issue that we don’t want reset until a Elevator technician investigates the cause. See section K.Thermal switch- A device located within the windings of the hydraulic power units motor, which opens if the temperature gets too high.Under load- A method of testing the systems voltage and the batteries capacity while the elevator is running up and down the hoistway.Valve- Can refer to the Blain hydraulic valve located on top of the HPU or to a part with in the valve which controls the flow of oil.Victory door operator- A 24Vdc powered gate operator that opens and closes the car gate.

My many thanks to all the technicians, engineers, co-op students, manufacturing personnel, and all the others that assisted in the production, proofreading, drawings and tribal knowledge that has helped make this manual possible.Sean Moffitt.
