bespoke vol.5 issue 1

the luxury magazine for world travelers

Bespoke

A Taste of Scotland’s Whisky Heritage

THE UNDISCOVEREDOdzala-Kokoua National Park

and Singita Mara River Tented Camp

Tanzania with David MarekGreat BritainMozambique

The World Cup ExperienceBrazil 2014

PLUS:

HAppy BIRTHDAy MR. LIVINgSTONECELEBRATINg VICTORIA FALLS

World’s Best Business Class

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PG. PG.34 42

There is no better place to experience the world’s finest whiskies – and the stories behind

them – than Scotland.

Brazil is preparing for a party, and Ker & Downey brings you the four most-coveted

spots to watch the World Cup unfold.

whiSKy: SCOTlaNd'S waTeR Of life

2014 wORld CuP PReview

PG. 26

A tribute to David Livingstone: pioneer, humanitarian, and the man who discovered

one of Africa’s greatest natural wonders, Victoria Falls.

liviNgSTONe liveS ONBRAZILSCOTLANDZAMBIA

Contentsvol. 5, issue 1 www.kerdowney.com

“Singita’s Grumeti Reserves is 350,000

private acres of pure safari nirvana… the

resident game in the area is absolutely incredible and makes this an ideal

year-round destination.”

k e r & d o w n e y4

I N D O C H I N Ao f

WONDER S

The s p l e n d o r of the region’s history

and culture unfolds before you on this

20-day journey as you discover Vietnam’s

royal dynasties, the ancient mysteries

of the Khmer civilization, the peaceful

spirituality of Laotian monks and the

melding of the old world with modern

society in Bangkok. Contact your travel

professional or visit us on the web to

view this journey at www.kerdowney.com.

V i e t n a m C a m b o d i a T h a i l a n d L a o s

t h e t r av e lo g u e

Hot off the PressesTop travel publications where Ker & Downey can be seen. pg. 12

DestinationsA map of Ker & Downey’s big, beautiful world and a “who’s where” of this issue of BESPOKE. pg. 8

Correspondence PhilanthropySharing stories of traveling to Africa, and the unexpected luxuries that come with a Ker & Downey journey. pg. 16

Gorongosa's RenaissanceWith the persistence of conservationists, Mozambique’s Gorongosa National Park is returning to its former glory. pg. 24

Ker & Downey is helping to get children off the streets and back to school at Uganda’s Home of Hope. pg. 19

Letter from the PresidentThe latest from David Marek on his own journeys and where he’s going next. pg. 18

ON The COveR: A Speyside distillery worker prepares to sample whisky aged in a barrel. Let Ker & Downey whisk you away on an unforgettable taste-testing journey. See page 34 for the indulgent details on the whisky experience in Scotland.

Kauri cliffs on new zealand's north island

Contentsvol. 5, issue 1 www.kerdowney.com

PG. 52

Vice President of Operations Reid Bader ex-plores unfamiliar wildlife havens: the Congo’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park and the Lamai

Triangle in Tanzania’s northern Serengeti.

iNTO The uNKNOwN

PG. 60

Ker & Downey President David Marek recalls his jaunt through Tanzania – an incredible

adventure of unexpected wildlife and unrivaled luxury on the edge of the Great Migration.

exPlORiNg TaNzaNiaTANZANIA

PG. 70

An incredible North to South journey, packed with coveted golfing excursions and stunning

landscape seen by private jet.

JeT TO The liNKS Of New zealaNd

NeW ZeALANDCeNTRAL & eAST AFRICA


THE

PHOTO HUNTSUBMIT PHOTOS. WIN ADVENTURES.

Show us your images from around the world along with a location and description, and you could be published in the next issue of Bespoke Magazine and win a $500 coupon off your next journey with us! Please send your images to:

T H E P H O T O H U N T @ K E R D O W N E Y . C O M

PHOTO: DOS LAGOS, CHILE

Photography credits include:Thinkstock photos, Dreamstime photos, Reid Bader, David Marek, Russell Gammon, Piotr Naskrecki, Bob Poole, Dream escape, Singita, Fasano, Wilderness Safaris, Dos Lagos, Singapore Airlines, Royal ChunduBunnahabhain Distillery, Glenfiddich Distillery, Brigitte Baumann, Copacabana Palace, Buzios Villa, Mwiba Tented Camp, Sayari Camp, The Hills Golf Course, Queenstown Helicopters, Matakauri Lodge, Sofitel Auckland, Kauri Cliffs, Millbrook Golf Course, Huka Lodge, Pam Buttner.

All pricing that has been notated in this magazine has been listed based on double occupancy unless otherwise noted.

Prices may vary depending on the time of year as well as other variable factors.

© 2013 Ker & Downey

executive editor

contributing editors

content writers

art direction & design

contributing designers

Katy Heerssen

Ann Abel

David Jones

David Marek

Katy Heerssen

Haley Beham

David Marek

Andrew Littmann

Amy Willis

Lauren Marek

Argentina

Brazil

Chile

Ecuador & The Galapagos

Peru

Egypt

Israel

Jordan

Morocco

Oman

Qatar

Turkey

United Arab Emirates

Bhutan

Cambodia

China

India

Laos

Nepal

Thailand

Vietnam

England

France

Greece

Ireland

Italy

Portugal

Scotland

Spain

Wales

Australia

French Polynesia

New Zealand

Kenya

Rwanda

Seychelles

Tanzania

Uganda

Botswana

Mauritius

Mozambique

Namibia

South Africa

Zambia

Zimbabwe

S O u T ha M e R i C a

N O RT h a f R i C a &M i d d l ee a S T

S O u T h e R Na f R i C a

a S i a

e u R O P e

S O u T hPa C i f i C

e a S Ta f R i C a

whaT dOeS iT MeaN TO be”beSPOKe?”

vo l u m e 5, i s s u e 1

The real heartbeat of traveling with Ker & Downey lies in our dedication to creating hand-crafted journeys that will change your life. The experience you gain, the adventure you have, the people you meet - all of these are the benchmarks of a truly life-changing journey - so step into the world of Ker & Downey with boldness. With any of our excursions, mix and match a world of destinations and luxury properties for your very own, unique trip of a lifetime.

Destinationsvol. 5, issue 1 www.kerdowney.com

TanzaniaRepublic of the CongoScotlandZambia

MozambiqueBrazilNew Zealand

i N T h i S i S S u e

*This magazine is a publication of Ker & Downey. The views and opinions expressed in this magazine belong to contributors and writers and may not reflect the views and opinions of Ker & Downey.


THE SECRET IS OUTKer & Downey has been planning experiential luxury journeys to Europe for several years, and it’s time we let you in on our secret. This new year we’re introducing you to England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, with much more to come.

GREAT BRITAIN

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT US ON THE WEB AT WWW.KERDOWNEY.COM TO VIEW ALL OF OUR DESTINATIONS.

London’s Suite Life

Combining all the facilities and conveniences of a luxury hotel with the space and exclusivity of a private home, 51 Buckingham Gate, Taj Suites & Residences, consists of three individually designed buildings: Kings, Falconers, and Minsters. The buildings have been beautifully restored to include 86 elegant suites, each with its own separate kitchen and living area. Located in St. James’s and just minutes from Buckingham Palace, shops, and the theaters of the West End, the town house hotel is an ideal base for a visit to London.

The Jaguar SuiteOverseen by Jaguar design director Ian Callum and his in-house design team, the suite has specially commissioned auto-inspired artwork and displays. Leather, metal, high-gloss veneer, and other materials taken directly from the brand’s automotive design nod to the legacy and future vision of Jaguar’s timeless style.

The world’s first Jaguar Suite was an exciting collaboration between two Tata-owned companies, Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces and Jaguar. The sleek design of this 1,832-square-foot, two-bedroom abode alludes to classic and contemporary Jaguar models, from the legendary 1960s E-type to the state-of-the-art C-X75.

The Jaguar experience starts subtly at the door, with sleek wood paneling greeting guests on arrival and Jaguar damask lining the bedroom walls. Intriguing design features are evident throughout, from the minimalistic clean-fuel fireplace referencing the shape of the cars’ hallmark rear window, to the finest leather that’s used in the cars, ebony veneer doors, and custom Jaguar wallpaper.Small Jaguar wave motifs and trapeze detailing accompany an array of carefully selected collector’s items that will be familiar to those who know and love these luxury motoring masterpieces.

Classic cinema and legendary luxury meet in two exclusive

suites at 51 Buckingham Gate, Taj Suites and Residences.

The Cinema SuiteCreated by acclaimed Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee, the Cinema Suite takes guests on a journey through world cinema and presents an ode to tradition. The 1,832-square-foot, two-bedroom suite was designed to pay tribute to the history of film, most notably 1940s and 1950s Hollywood and the Indian cinema of the 1950s.

Guests will find references to masters such as Ray, Coppola, and Bergman in the imposing study; world cinema leaders like Majidi, Wong Kar-Wai, and Almodovar among the cultured kitsch of the living room; and echoes of "The Stepford Wives" in the kitchen. One bedroom pays homage to Hollywood’s Rita Hayworth and Marilyn Monroe, while the other draws on colonial inspiration and renowned Indian artists such as Guru Dutt and Bimal Roy.

Among the marvels: breathtakingly rare Bollywood film prints, remarkable history books, vintage mirrors, and a myriad of portraits and drawings. From the leather Chesterfield to precious glassware, intriguing art, and antique rugs, arts and crafts from around the world are displayed throughout. Each wall is a work of art in itself, with striking Nina Campbell wallpapers serving as a backdrop for curios collected from more than 32 cultures. Sumptuous silk drapes meet magnificent oak flooring, while priceless antique furniture displays ornaments such as rare Chinese porcelain, Bhutanese frames, and 1920s embroidered Indian lamps.

What homage to international film culture would be complete without cutting-edge technology and a stunning media room? The 85-inch plasma cinema screen, with a 3D state-of-the-art home theater system, is one of the biggest private screens in any London hotel suite. It’s boosted by a world-class Steinway Lyngdorf cinema system – a fully immersive cinematic experience – and raises the bar for in-hotel audiovisual offerings. The system has been preloaded with 300 international films, books, and music, chosen by Sabyasachi himself to acknowledge that time is well spent among films, art, and culture.

Contact your travel professional or visit www.kerdowney.com to learn more about 51 Buckingham Gate, Taj Suites, and Residences on your next custom journey to London.

Over the past few months, Ker & Downey has been honored to be featured in the following national travel publications. Check out a few of our worldwide destinations that are creating some buzz.

Hot Off The pressesnews

Honeymoon in Kenya

Ultimate Africa

Tanzania Walking Safari

Icons of Spain& portugal

The Fall/Winter edition of Town & Country Weddings included a stunning bridal gown fashion spread shot at Ol Donyo Lodge, and a suggested honeymoon in the Masai Mara that’s heavy on the romance and splendor.

Find Ker & Downey in the Essential Safari Guide in Robb Report’s Travel Edition, February 2013. Read more about the Ultimate Africa Primate Tour and Migration journey featured on pg. 52 of this edition of BESPOKE.

The May 2013 edition of Travel + Leisure will highlight our Tanzania Walking Safari in the northern Serengeti. Read more about this game-rich region on pg. 60 of this edition of BESPOKE.

Look for a comprehensive feature on Icons of Portugal & Spain in an upcoming edition of Elite Traveler Magazine. Get a preview of this featured journey on pg. 14 of this edition of BESPOKE.

To experience these featured journeys for yourself, contact your travel professional or visit us at www.kerdowney.com.

snapshoton the webInteract with us on our website and see amazing photos of your wish list destinations at www.kerdowney.com

our facebookfacebook.com/keranddowney

our twittertwitter.com/kdluxurytravel

drop us a [email protected]

chat with us800.423.4236

ngaga camp in odzala-KoKoua national parK

k e r & d o w n e y1 2

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P R E S E N T S

C O N T A C T Y O U R T R A V E L P R O F E S S I O N A L O R V I S I T

W W W . K E R D O W N E Y . C O M .

Explore the Iberian Peninsula with Ker & Downey’s exclusive 14-day journey through the cultural and culinary history of this rich region. The tremendous hospitality, the passion of the flamenco, and exclusive access to the iconic sites of two storied countries will inspire your soul.

DAY ITINERARY ACCOMMODATION

DAY 1-2 PORTO The Yeatman

DAY 3-4 DOURO Aquapura Douro Valley

DAY 5-6 LISBON Olissippo Lapa Palace

DAY 7-9 MADRID Hotel Vil la Magna

DAY 10-11 CORDOBA/ Hotel Palacio de los Patos GRANADA

DAY 12 -13 SEVILLE Hotel Alfonso XIII

DAY 14 DEPARTURE

t h e e s s e n t i a l s

When was your trip?

Where was your favorite place to stay?

/ Personal Stories

What most surprised you on your journey?

What lasting impression did you leave with?

What was the best part of your trip?

Where did you go?

Who did you travel with?

September 2012

We had an amazing trip and loved all the places we stayed, but Sirikoi Game Lodge in the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy definitely stands out. It was a relaxed environment and the conservation efforts impressed us so much that we decided to become supporters of the Conservancy after we got home. The food at Singita Faru Faru was mind-blowing – on the way home we joked that we’d have gone there if it was only a restaurant! We spent our afternoons on the deck with big platters of a little sample of everything from the kitchen. Between that and the game drives, we never even got to try out the pool that we swooned over in photos!

At Sirikoi we were taken on a private “walk” that turned into a

pretty serious uphill hike. It was worth it – we ended up in a very secluded area with amazing mountain waterfalls falling into a pond. We were able to hang out there for a long time and swim, it was a special experience.

The most surprising thing was the infrastructure and how organized everything was at the airports, even in hectic circumstances. At the Kilimanjaro airport we had a quick connection to make but due to the arrival of the Tanzanian president and all the fanfare related to that, we were severely delayed. The ground crew found us and literally hand-delivered us to our next flight! That would never happen in the States – you’d miss your flight and that would be that. We got the same treatment for every flight throughout the trip, it was surprisingly efficient.

It was Mike’s first trip to Africa, and he was nervous about many things: safety, organization, and the idea of “roughing it” in the wild. We quickly learned that “roughing it” with Ker & Downey is a joke! We were both completely astounded. Mike really fell in love and by day two on safari he was already planning our return trip. There is a saying: “Once you have a grain of sand in your shoe, you’ll always go back,” and this will be true for us again and again. We were so happy to have shared the experience together.

Mt. Kenya, Kenya; Ngorongoro Carter and the Serengeti, Tanzania.

Just the two of us.

notes from east africaWhen preparing to travel there are naturally certain expectations and even some

hesitations about discovering an unfamiliar part of the big, beautiful world. Ker & Downey

guests often find that preconceived notions are turned on their heads, as did Brigitte B. and

Mike F. of New Jersey, who have graciously shared their journey with us.

we waNT TO heaR fROM OuR TRaveleRS: If you’ve taken a life-changing journey with Ker & Downey, we want to hear about it! Drop us a line at [email protected] or send an email to your Travel Professional and let us know what you loved about your trip and what changed your life.

Correspondence

vol. 5, issue 1 www.kerdowney.com

t h e bas i c s

"We were both completely astounded. Mike really fell in love and by day two on safari he

was already planning our return trip."


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PHOTO: SINGAPORE AIRLINES

When reserving your custom land arrangements with Ker & Downey, please ask about our incredible airfare rates. Our experts partner with the best to ensure a comfortable and luxurious journey in transit. Forget the hassles: obtain premium seating at great rates, accrue mileage where available, and get the peace-of-mind of lenient cancellation policies. Contact our air department at 1-800-423-4236 to get started.

Travel has its share of rewards and frustrations. This past September my wife and I were traveling through Tanzania, where I was hoping to knock off one of my bucket list items: fishing for tiger fish in the Malagarasi River of western Tanzania. Unfortunately, we had to change plans and decided instead to spend some days in the Lemai Wedge region in the northern Serengeti. My negative feelings quickly turned positive as we got lost in the amazing scenery and wildlife of the diverse area.

The locations in this edition of BESPOKE – Tanzania, Congo, Mozambique, New Zealand, Brazil, Zambia, and Scotland –can cause travel headaches that are beyond anyone’s control. Just think back to a flight you missed in the States, and then picture that missed flight being in an unfamiliar place like the Congo or Mozambique! As seasoned travelers, we like to think that we’re the intrepid ones where these little headaches are concerned, but faraway locations with fewer flights tend to add to the drama. I myself am a rather nervous sort when it comes to traveling. For that reason, when we send clients on any of our bespoke adventures, whether they’re headed to the Malagarasi River or the Highlands of Scotland, we make sure that they’re met off the airplane and escorted through immigration and customs wherever possible. Those VIP stalls at passport control? They aren’t just for government bigwigs! Ker & Downey clients enjoy them as well. And while on your trip, if something unexpected happens, we’ll take care of it. If you’re a nervous traveler like me, I’m sure you’ll appreciate the extra attention.

This February, I had the privilege of participating in a workshop on the development of Gorongosa National Park in Mozambique. Gorongosa was once known as Africa’s Eden due to the quantity and variety of large mammals in residence. The Mozambique civil war of the 1970s practically wiped out all the animals, and poachers soon took those that were left. Enter Greg Carr, a guy with a vision to restore the park to its former glory. In early 2004 he started translocating game into the park from other areas in an effort to build up the depleted herds. He also began developing a science lab on site and brought in researchers and scientists to assist him in executing in his vision. In July of this year, a new Asilia luxury lodge will open to start rekindling tourism in the park, and Ker & Downey has made a commitment to the park’s rebirth and success. Look for more news of this great adventure on our website and in our e-newsletters. Want to be one of the first to meet with researchers and do hands-on research? Contact us. We’ll make it happen – it’s what we do.

David MarekPresidentker & downey

PhilaNThROPiC JOuRNeyS: Learn how to get involved with Ker & Downey’s philanthropy projects while traveling at www.kerdowney.com/philanthropy

President's Lettervol. 5, issue 1 www.kerdowney.com


The Uganda Home of Hope Foundation provides a safe haven for children in Kampala, Uganda.

A Home of HopeWhen things go south for a family in Uganda, there is no subsidized assistance to support them. Worse yet, children often have no social worker to advocate on their behalf when a parent turns abusive or is overcome by an illness. The only choices for a child who wants to escape are to stay or to go, and to go often means going into the streets and into an unstable life that makes them vulnerable to a new array of abuses and dangers. Education, socialization, and the childhood luxury of play all take a backseat to survival, and the cycle often repeats itself, if the child is lucky enough to endure life on his or her own.

philanthropy

Several of the boys at the Home of Hope

play in local youth football clubs.

kicking around

k e r & d o w n e y 1 9

Founded in July 2012, the Uganda Home of Hope Foundation was born out of a necessity to serve a growing population of street children in Kampala. Supported by a handful of benefactors and spearheaded by Executive Director Marinka Sanc-George, the foundation arranged for many of the children to be transferred out of the care of an overcrowded organization in Kampala and into a new facility with more room to grow.

The majority of UHHF’s 23 students attend Cityland College, a private boarding school in Wakiso Town. At the close of each term, the children are bused to the Home to spend their holidays. While they enjoy a break from studies and sometimes visit their families, the staff prepares for their return to school by gathering books, classroom supplies, uniforms, shoes, and toiletries – all things that must be provided above and beyond tuition fees. These needs are met only with support from abroad.

The Home of Hope is a place where children can put the worries of home and the responsibilities of school out of their minds for a few months of the year. It’s a place where Kenneth and Enock can be football-loving boys and spend hours kicking around in the dirt yard; where Alice can escape the harsh physical and emotional abuse from her father and realize her dream of an education; where all the children can learn to cook, develop basic computer skills, and cooperate as friends and family. UHHF allows the children it supports to truly just be kids,

protected and nurtured by the kindness of the staff and volunteers in Uganda, and the generosity of donors abroad.

Ker & Downey is happy to support the Uganda Home of Hope Foundation via donations of supplies and monetary contributions. To learn how you can get involved with this worthwhile project, contact us at [email protected] or visit the Philanthropy tab of our website, www.kerdowney.com.

Ker & Downey’s David and Gana Marek visit with the children at Uganda’s Home of Hope. (right) UHHF’s youngest resident strikes a pose in the Home’s backyard.

welcome home

"The Home of Hope is a place where children can put the worries of home and the responsibilities

of school out of their minds for a few months

of the year."


k e r & d o w n e y 2 1

CAPPADOCIA’S MAGICAL LANDSCAPE IS ALMOST LUNAR, HAVING BEEN FORMED BY VOLCANIC ACTIVITY, WINDS, AND EROSION. FOR OVER A MILLENNIA THIS NETWORK OF CAVES AND SPIRALING “CHIMNEYS” HAS BEEN HOME TO REFUGEES AND NOMADS OUT OF SECURITY AND NECESSITY, AND TODAY HAS CAPTIVATED INTERNATIONAL VISITORS WITH ITS UNBELIEVABLE STORY. SEE THE INCREDIBLE HISTORY AND MODERN BEAUTY CONVERGE ON THIS 10 DAY JOURNEY THROUGH SIGNATURE TURKEY, ONLY FROM KER & DOWNEY.

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT OR VISIT WWW.KERDOWNEY.COM

BE A CAVE DWELLER AT THE LUXURIOUS ARGOS IN CAPPADOCIA, LOCATED AT A RESTORED MONASTERY BUILT WITHIN SECRET CAVES.

THERE IS NO OTHER PLACE ON EARTH LIKE CAPPADOCIA, AND ITS “FAIRY CHIMNEYS” WILL LEAVE YOU SPELLBOUND.

EXPLORE THE NETWORK OF UNDERGROUND CITIES WHERE ANTIQUITY’S CHRISTIANS HID FROM ROMAN PERSECUTION.

TURKEYs i gnature

ISTANBUL CAPPADOCIAKUSADASI BODRUM

gorongosa’s RenaissanceWith the persistence of conservationists and the protected status of Mozambique’s gorongosa National park, wildlife populations continue to rebound, and the natural beauty is flourishing once again. In July 2013 Asilia Africa will debut Kubatana Camp, a luxury tented retreat that harkens back to a vintage safari experience en-joyed by international travelers in the 1960s.


aT The SOuTheRN eNd Of afRiCa’S gReaT RifT Valley, Gorongosa National Park is an area of unparalleled natural diversity. In its heyday in the 1960s and 1970s, this park was home to the greatest population of lions on the African continent, and the destination of choice for safari enthusiasts such as John Wayne and Ava Gardner. However, Mozambique’s civil war took its toll on the wildlife, and by the time peace was declared, Gorongosa was just a shadow of its former self.

An ambitious restoration project, funded by American philanthropist Greg Carr in partnership with Gorongosa National Park, has brought this park back to life. The groundbreaking work and dedication of Gorongosa National Park and the Gorongosa Restoration Project have ensured that Gorongosa is again one of Africa’s most exciting wilderness experiences – with even brighter prospects for the future.

A safari in Gorongosa shows what happens when nature is given a chance to rebound. After just a few years, Gorongosa is well on its way to becoming, once again, “the place where Noah left his Ark." Lake Urema is home to crocodiles and hippos, the floodplains of the Pongwe river system teem with waterbucks, sable

antelopes, and zebras, while the rain forest at the top of Mount Gorongosa is home to unique species that cannot be found anywhere else on earth, such as the recently discovered Mount Gorongosa pygmy chameleon.

Kubatana Camp sits in a private concession on the bank of the Mussicadzi River, shaded by large fever trees and comprised of six spacious tents, each with en suite bathrooms and outdoor bucket showers. The camp is authentic yet stylish, with touches that take you back to Gorongosa’s golden era of the 1960s. Guests may enjoy an evening watching vintage safari footage or flicking through photo albums. They can explore the park through game drives, walks, and boating safaris. But a safari in Gorongosa will also afford the unique opportunity to contribute to the restoration project – a chance to be part of rare-species relocations or get involved in a game census. This is sustainable tourism in action.

For more information about customizing your own journey to Gorongosa National Park, Mozambique, or any other destination, contact your travel professional or visit www.kerdowney.com.

Treks and drives at Gorongosa National Park reveal secret waterfalls and rebounding wildlife.paradise rediscovered

k e r & d o w n e y 2 5

livingstonelivesOn a tribute to david livingstone: pioneer, humanitarian, and the man

who discovered one of africa’s greatest natural wonders, victoria falls. follow in his footsteps at Royal Chundu on the zambezi, and see the beauty of the falls for yourself.


The Zambezi River spills over Victoria Falls, “The Smoke

that Thunders.”

k e r & d o w n e y 2 7

David Livingstone in 1860.


bORN ON MaRCh 19, 1813 iN a glaSgOw SluM, David Livingstone grew up with a bleak-looking future. He, like most working-class children of the time, would almost assuredly follow in his parents’ footsteps as a factory worker. By age 10 he was working in the factory for 10 hours a day, six days a week – grueling work that left little time for study-ing. Seeking to improve the education of the young working class, the Scottish church began teaching children on Sundays. Young Livingstone showed determination in his studies, teaching himself Lat-

This year marks the 200th birthday of Scottish missionary and explorer David Livingstone, who traversed the width of southern Africa and hap-pened upon Victoria Falls, one of the great wonders of the natural world. As we celebrate his birthday, we remember how instrumental Livingstone was in opening up the interior of Africa and the mighty Victoria Falls to the Western world.

in – this drive would characterize the rest of his life. Resolved to leave the appalling living and work-

ing conditions of industrial Britain and empowered by his education, Livingstone entered Anderson College at age 19 and studied medicine with the hope of becoming an overseas missionary. The London Missionary Society trained him as a pastor, and in 1841, at age 28, he landed at the Kuruman mission station in the Northern Cape province of South Africa. There he met his wife, Mary, daughter of Robert Moffat, the founder of the Kuruman mis-

sion station. David and Mary moved to Mabotsa, Botswana, where they lived and worked for 10 years without a sin-gle recorded convert.

Despite his lack of success, Living-stone’s spirit was not diminished, and he became determined to find a better way to spread Christianity in Africa. He chose to serve the Makalolo people who lived in the Linyanti area, one of the most remote locations in Africa. Since his new home was bordered by the Kalahari Desert to the south and impassable for eight to 10 months of the year, Livingstone embarked on a quest for a trade route into Linyanti that could be used year-round. He reached the western coast and deter-mined that the trek was too difficult for a sustainable trade route, so he re-traced his steps back to Linyanti and set out east along the Zambezi River, eventually arriving to the east coast. His journey took four years and ended with 6,000 miles of uncharted terri-tory, including most of the Zambezi, having been mapped by hand, and Liv-

…he would later write that a “sight so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

Archival drawings from Livingstone’s expedition, compared to a view of Victoria Falls today.

then and now

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Private thatched villas overlook the Zambezi at Royal Chundu.


Find a window to the river from every

spot in your Royal Chundu suite.

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ingstone becoming the first European to traverse southern Africa. It was also during this journey that Livingstone came across Victoria Falls, which he named after his sovereign, and about which he would later write that a “sight so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

The iNdigeNOuS NaMe fOR viCTORia fallS, Mosi-oa-Tunya, means “Smoke that Thunders,” and this effect is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular characteristics of the falls. Livingstone recounted his first exposure to the sight in his jour-nal: “We came into sight, for the first time, of the columns of vapor appropriately called ‘smoke’… The tops of the columns at this distance appeared to mingle with the clouds. They were white be-low, and higher up became dark, so as to simulate smoke very closely. The whole scene was extremely beautiful.” The mile-wide Zambezi River plum-meting 350 feet into a chasm that separates Zambia and Zimbabwe creates this stunning display. Half a century after Livingstone stumbled upon the falls, the Victoria Falls Bridge was constructed, open-ing them to tourism. Today the falls are counted

among the Natural Wonders of the World, have been named to the UNESCO World Heritage list, and continue to be among the must-see sights for visitors to southern Africa.

This magnificent region and the spectacle of na-ture’s raw power can be witnessed as they were through Livingstone’s eyes at the lodges of Royal Chundu. On nine miles of private waterway along the banks of the Zambezi River, and just a short drive from the magnificent falls, Royal Chundu provides guests the opportunity to explore the sur-rounding area and falls as the explorer did 150 years ago. The two luxurious lodges of Royal Chundu, the River Lodge and the Island Lodge, sit on the con-vergence of Zambia and Zimbabwe between Chobe National Park and Victoria Falls. At the main River Lodge, 10 spacious river-front suites look out onto the Zambezi, and private decks provide spectacular

The Zambezi River breathes life into the region, with canoe-ing and excellent fly-fishing possible at Royal Chundu.

views. For a more intimate getaway, the exclusive Is-

land Lodge is located on the private Katamura Is-land and is reached by a short boat ride from the main lodge. Surrounded by river channels and jackalberry trees, the four villas have private decks, open-air bathrooms, glass-walled showers, and large, cozy beds.

Beyond the drama of the falls, the Zambezi is alive with various wildlife, including abundant hippopotamuses, crocodiles, African fish eagles, egrets, and herons. A sunset river cruise provides the perfect opportunity to relax while keeping an eye out for elephants and buffalo on the banks, and hippopotamuses and crocodiles emerging from the river for a breath of air.

The river breathes life into the region, with ca-

(left) explorer Henry Morton Stanley greets David Livingstone in an African village. (right clock-wise) A romantic place to retire; a dramatic rendition of Livingstone being attacked by a lion; the sparkling pool at Royal Chundu’s main lounge; Russell Gam-mon, an authority on Victoria Falls.

noeing and excellent fly-fishing possible. A short mo-koro ride to a local village lets guests interact with vil-lagers as they go about their daily tasks. Guides are well educated in local customs and traditions and can provide in-sight into making necessities such as soap, cooking oil, and medicines from plants and herbs.

Guests of Royal Chundu dine on traditional pan-Afri-can and Zambian dishes pre-pared by the executive chef in the intimate outdoor boma. Fresh, local ingredients bring out Zambian flavors to reflect the heritage of the region.

Indeed, it is a region steeped in history and won-der that goes back much farther than 150 years. The glory of Mosi-oa-Tunya captivated David Living-stone and has been captivating travelers ever since. When visiting Victoria Falls with Ker & Downey, you have the chance to experience this wonder with Russell Gammon, the foremost authority on Livingstone and the falls. A native of Zimbabwe with 25 years of guiding for the likes of National Geographic and the Smithsonian Institute under his belt, Gammon will paint the perfect picture of Livingstone’s journey on a private tour.

As we celebrate the life of David Livingstone, we are grateful for a man whose determination led him across southern Africa and introduced the world to Victoria Falls so that we, like the angels, might gaze upon their beauty.

For more information about customizing your own journey to Victoria Falls, Zambia, or any oth-er destination, contact your travel professional or visit www.kerdowney.com.


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w h i S K y :S c o T l a n D ' Sin his 1880 poem "The Scotsman’s Return from abroad", Robert louis Steven-son declared whisky "the king o' drinks” and connoisseurs of fine spirits agree. There is no better place to experience the world’s finest whiskies – and the stories behind them – than Scotland.


w a T e ro f l i f e

bunnahabhain distillery’s view of the sound of islay.

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uSquebaugh: The waTeR Of life. SuRe iT’S water, happily enhanced with a little peat, grain, yeast, and time, aged for years and even decades until its golden hue is just so, its aroma singing from the mouth of a tumbler. Of all the world's varieties, whisky can’t be labeled “scotch” unless it’s made in Scotland, a distinction reserved for the bevy of brands produced in more than 125 distilleries across the country. Each region has its own unique nuances in flavor, from smoky to fruity to woodsy, and for lovers of fine spirits, nothing compares to sampling the world’s best with a view over the Scottish countryside.

The earliest documented record of distilling in Scotland was made in 1494, but historians estimate the art may have begun as early as 500 A.D., with the arrival of the Dalriadic Scots to the Isle of Mull on Scotland’s western shore. Just south of Mull is the Isle of Islay, the “Queen of the Hebrides” and one

of Scotland’s major whisky-producing regions. Eight distilleries are in operation today, and as many as 23 were active simultaneously in past centuries. Established in 1779, Bowmore is the eldest of the bunch, with the capacity to produce two million liters annually. The peat of the nearby Laggan River serves as the natural filter for this whisky, giving it a smooth and full-bodied taste. Farther to the west, Kilchoman is the island’s youngest distillery, and its traditional floor-malting techniques and “Islay-only” processes of growing barley, malting, distilling, aging, and bottling, have quickly

made it a unique and highly desirable brand. On the island’s northeast coast there’s Bunnahabhain, along with a town of the same name that was born out of a need to house distillery workers in the 19th century. The rugged coastal scenery here makes for a nice panorama as you sample the distillery’s offerings; the ruined wreck of the Wyre Majestic sitting atop the rocks is a reminder that the magnificent shores are deceptive and treacherous. Islay itself is as diverse as the whole of Scotland’s distilleries. As tasters travel north to south across the 239-square-mile island, the flavors change from mild and light to intense and peaty, with brands produced in the south considered the strongest in the country.

The same wide range of flavors can be found in Speyside, a hotbed of whisky production in Scotland’s northeast. More than 50 distilleries

share some 1,000 square miles, cranking out whiskies that go into household names like Chivas Regal and Johnnie Walker, and also producing the world’s top two single-malts, Glenlivet and Glenfiddich. The former survived turbulent years during the Great Depression to become instrumental in Great Britain’s economic recovery after World War II by exporting to its thirsty neighbors across the Atlantic, and today remains the best-selling malt whisky in the United States. Cardhu Distillery produces its namesake brand as well as the family of Johnnie Walker blends – a rainbow of red, black, green, gold, and the coveted blue, all of which can be sampled after an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour of the distillery. Interestingly, Cardhu also helped give birth to one of its competitors – Glenfiddich founder William Grant purchased the old stills from Cardhu in 1885 and put them to work one year later. Today at Glenfiddich, rum casks from the Caribbean, Spanish sherry butts, and Bourbon whiskey barrels from the United States all lend themselves to the maturation process and produce an amazing array of rich flavors. The oldest distillery in the Highlands is Strathisla, founded in 1786 and noted for its double pagoda silhouette and original cobblestone courtyard. Aside from being visually stunning, it also has the distinction of being the birthplace of world-renowned Chivas Regal and its 12-, 18-, and 25-year-old blends. Although founded by different families and using unique recipes, the whiskies of Speyside reveal a web of interconnectivity. Ownerships have changed and the storms of two World Wars have been weathered, but a common ground of tradition and innovation

(left clock-wise) Strathisla distillery’s historic double pagodas; the Balmoral Hotel’s landmark clock tower in edinburgh; whisky in progress at the Glenfiddich distillery; the amber glow of Scotland’s whiskies.

Ker & Downey’s Water of Life journey visits edinburgh, the

Highlands, Speyside, and the Isle of Islay over nine

indulgent days.

whisky wonders

scotland by brand

BUNNAHA BHA I N

BOWMORE

K I L CHOMAN

DA LWH INN I E

TA L I S K E R

I S L A ND S

H I GH L AND S

S P E Y S I D E

L OWLAND S

C AMP B E LTON

I S L AY

STRATH I S L A

G L EN L I V E T

G L EN F I DD I CH

C A RDHU

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... a faNTaSTiC PRivaTe CRuiSe ON The iNfaMOuS lOCh NeSS wiTh a SPRead Of fReSh SeafOOd aNd aN iNCRedible view Of TRue highlaNd beauTy.


Visit the ruined Urquhart Castle on the waters of

Loch Ness.

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bind the generations who have prospered thanks to the water of life. During the annual Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival, held May 2 to 6 in 2013, the region’s distilleries throw open their doors for a whirlwind week that celebrates the food, culture, history, and of course the spirits that have shaped the way of life here.

The distilleries of the Highlands range beyond Speyside, and most notable among these is Dalwhinnie, the highest in elevation of its brothers. Private tastings of its creations feature the acclaimed 15-year-old, described as a smooth and medium-bodied treat. On the famed Isle of Skye, Talisker reigns as the lone distillery, an operation that at one time paid for its lease with

annual 10-gallon casks of its distinctive spirit delivered to clan leaders. Talisker’s seven ages are less peaty than its cousins on Islay, instead emphasizing a smoky, spicy flavor.

ediNbuRgh’S SCOTCh whiSKy exPeRieNCe displays thousands of the finest and rarest scotch whiskies in the world, surprisingly, by way of Brazil. The collection was started in earnest by Brazilian businessman Claive Vidiz in 1973 and was curated and treasured over the next 35 years. In 2008

MORe ThaN 50 SPeySide diSTilleRieS ShaRe SOMe 1,000 SquaRe MileS, CRaNKiNg OuT whiSKieS uSed TO CRafT hOuSehOld NaMeS liKe ChivaS Regal aNd JOhNNie walKeR.

the beverage company Diageo, a major player in today’s whisky industry, purchased the collection and had each bottle shipped back to its homeland – an estimated 2 million–pound investment in national posterity. To date there are 3,384 varieties sitting untouched in a state-of-the-art glass-walled vault. Among the thousands of unique finds: a bottle of Johnnie Walker Blue autographed by Grand Prix driver Juan Pablo Montoya, one of only 69 Strathmill single malts produced to celebrate Speyside Distillery’s centenary, and a special edition of Dimple Pinch purchased for $1,000 in 1969. Beyond its impressive display and sheer volume, the collection is a panorama of the industry that has come to define Scotland. Ker & Downey’s Water of Life excursion is a pilgrimage to Mecca for the whisky connoisseur, as well as for those with the basest of appreciation for the handcrafted treat. Guests are chauffeured on a journey through the countryside to Speyside and Islay, with ample opportunities to take in the historical sites and imbibe along the way. Experience a fantastic private cruise on the infamous Loch Ness with a spread of fresh seafood and an incredible view of true Highland beauty. Bed down in picturesque Gregorian estates, enjoying private visits to castles and ruins on a journey that blends the charm of yesteryear with the storied past and promising future of whisky in Scotland.

For more information about customizing your own journey to Scotland or any other destination, contact your travel professional or visit www.kerdowney.com.

Workers at Bun-nahabhain distillery transport precious cargo. (right) A sea of casks wait on the Isle of Islay.

roll out the barrel


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Night falls on Rio de Janeiro.


2014World cup

previeWIn the 10 years since it was announced that Brazil would host the 20th FIFA World Cup, the

whole country has been preparing for a party. And in the capital of Carnival, you know they know how to celebrate. Brazil last hosted the event in 1950, and this will be the first World Cup

in South America since 1978, when Argentina played host to football fanatics. For Brazil and South America, this is a moment to shine. For football enthusiasts in North America, this is a

golden opportunity to see the world’s best compete for the ultimate prize without the hassle of a transatlantic flight or losing a day to jet lag.

There’s just a little more than a year to go before the monthlong international battle for bragging rights begins, and if you want to experience the spectacle that comes with the World Cup, listen up. You’re among the first to see Ker & Downey’s exclusive travel packages to Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, including luxury accommodations, private transportation, and local tours to fill your

time between matches. Watch the final exciting matches held in the two cities, including the finale in Rio, with Ker & Downey’s exclusive accommodation and ticket packages.

Staying in Style: The four Most- CovetedSpots to watch the world Cup unfold.

Including:

copacabana palacefasano rio

fasano são paulo buzios villa

plus

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Fasano RioRio de Janeiro

What to do:

room options:

your entourage: matches included:

Copacabana BeachSugarloaf MountainCorcovado Mountain and the Statue of ChristSanta Tereza arts neighborhoodPrivate boat tour to Angra dos Reis islandsBike toursNature trekkingSamba dancing lessonsCooking classes

Deluxe Ocean View Room + Superior Room (Four person package) from $420,000Suite + Deluxe Ocean View Room (Four person package) from $600,000

Private conciergeExclusive Mercedes Sprinter van

Final round match June 28Semifinal match July 5Final match July 13

A modern hotel and one of the youngest in the city, the Fasano Hotel on Ipanema Beach is the first project to be envisioned from scratch by renowned designer Philippe Starck. From the entrance where you’ll be greeted by friendly staff behind a counter created from a giant pekia tree trunk to the use of exquisite materials from all across the globe, the Fasano provides the utmost in luxury in one of Rio’s most fashionable areas.

k e r & d o w n e y 4 5

Copacabana palaceRio de Janeiro

What to do:

room options:


Copacabana BeachSugarloaf MountainCorcovado Mountain and the Statue of ChristSanta Tereza arts neighborhoodPrivate boat tour to Angra dos Reis islandsBike toursNature trekkingSamba dancing lessonsCooking classes

Ocean View Suite + City View Suite (Four person package) from $440,000



Right on Copacabana beach, the Copacabana Palace is one of South America's most famous hotels, providing glamorous and luxurious accommodations since 1923. It’s been the hotel of choice for the rich and famous for decades and has become an icon of the city, upholding its reputation of exemplary service, exquisite cuisine, and opulence throughout.

k e r & d o w n e y 4 7

Fasano São pauloSão Paulo

What to do:

room options:


Shopping in the Jardins or Vila Madalena neighborhoodsVisits with modern designers and artisansHistoric tours and museumsPrivate tour to local coffee farm

Deluxe Room + Superior Room (Four person package) from $352,000


Final round match July 1Semifinal match July 9

Ideally located between the business districts of Avenida Paulista and Faria Lima, in the heart of the exclusive Jardins neighborhood, the hotel is steps away from São Paulo’s prime shopping area. With personalized service that’s accommodating yet discreet, the Fasano São Paulo caters to discerning travelers. Guests can enjoy the inviting accommodations and relax by the hotel’s exquisite spa and rooftop swimming pool.

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Buzios VillaFerradura Beach

What to do:

room options:

your entourage: matches included

Rent a beach buggy and explore dozens of beachesMovie night in your private home theaterSwimming pool and JacuzziLounge by the beach

Four bedroom villa (Eight person package) from $720,000

Private conciergeFull staff at the villaPrivate helicopter transfers from Rio de Janeiro


Set on the top of a hill at Praia da Ferradura in Búzios, this modern beach home makes guests feel comfortable enough to relax and enjoy the outdoors, without forsaking good design. Its impressive architecture highlights amazing views throughout the house, of both the bay and the open ocean. While wood, natural fibers, and cool tones are predominant, the Sami Hilal artwork on the living room wall sets the tone of the house: simple sophistication.

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i n t ot h eun k n o w nblaziNg a TRail ThROugh leSS-TRaveled afRiCaN deSTiNaTiONS


The Republic of the Congo may very well be africa’s best-kept secret. abundant wildlife and dense, virtually uninhabited rain forests reign in the north, creating a haven for a myriad of primate species and a truly untamed wilderness for the very adventurous. in October 2012 Ker & downey’s own pioneering spirit, vice President of Operations Reid bader, set off to explore this new frontier and visit another unfamiliar wildlife haven, the lamai Triangle in Tanzania’s northern Serengeti.

Lango Camp’s front yard of Odzala marsh

and savanna.

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Ker & downey’s Congo is miles from anything one might see on news reports from the region – more than 900 miles if we’re counting. The Republic of the Congo is a small, stable democracy separate from the more turbulent democratic Republic of the Congo, and Odzala-Kokoua National Park is far removed from the more populated regions in the south.

The NORTheRN RaiN fOReSTS Of The CONgO Basin form the second largest collection of rain forests in the world, second only to the Amazon. This is Joseph Conrad’s Africa, the Dark Heart of the continent that still remains wild and rugged. There are no trails here, no paths cut between acres of marshy high grasses and lush marantace-ae. There are also no roads – preparing for this trek is not unlike preparing for a duck hunt in a back-woods marsh. High-water waders will serve you well. The only trails you’ll find have been forged by the animals, like an “elephant highway” through a swath of thick mud, a route so deteriorated when compared to its forested surroundings that it ap-pears to have seen thousands of years and untold numbers of rough gray feet.

Surprises are plenty on a trek through the un-cut foliage, and guides and researchers know this jungle as a second home. They’re in tune with the flora, fauna, and the subtle signs that, yes, there will be activity ahead. Frasier, the guide who ac-companied Reid on his trip, seemed to have a sixth sense fixed on the wildlife of the area. As they were trekking, Frasier stopped the group and conjured a Narina Trogan out of the thick green-ery to land on a particularly attractive branch just above their heads. This is the kind of magic one can expect from Odzala: elusive birds and curi-ous creatures appearing all of a sudden as if they

had wondered into the frame of a painting. The park is home to 16 species of primates, including chimpanzees, black-and-white colobuses, mang-abeys, and western lowland gorillas. The gorillas are new enough to habituation to be more cautious than the larger silverbacks and mountain goril-las of Rwanda and Uganda. Forest elephants and buffalo are among the other wildlife found here, distinguished from their cousins elsewhere on the continent by their smaller statures and horns and tusks that have adapted to the jungle surround-ings, curling back behind the buffaloes’ heads and pointing down toward the elephants’ feet to avoid snagging on the tangle of trees. The attraction of Odzala is the high concentra-tion of bais, clearings in the woods with salt-rich soils that harbor a variety of plants that prove irre-sistible. These clearings are not unlike shadowbox dioramas of the forest, giving visitors a front-row seat to activity that would otherwise be shrouded by dense foliage. Ornithologists will be awestruck by the more than 400 bird species that call the park home.

Odzala is experienced in two sections at two fantastic camps, both having just opened in 2012. Lango Camp lies where the savanna meets the marsh on the edges of the Likoli and Mambili Rivers. Ngaga Camp, the second you will visit, is raised on wooden platforms and walkways to

Western lowland gorillas can’t resist the marantaceae; Reid Bader after an excursion.(right) Following Frasier on a wet trail in Odzala-Kokoua National Park.

odzala explorers


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exclusive luxury over a marantaceae field at Ngaga Camp.


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capture views of a bai just beyond. The camps are identical in construction, both having been crafted from locally sourced natural materials, bamboo, sustainable hardwoods, and raffia matting. The B’Aka Pygmy groups have inspired the architec-ture of the spaces, each round in design with one wall left open to act as your window into the wild. Reid remarked that his window was a television of sorts – a 24-hour National Geographic special on Odzala.

Not only does the camps’ isolation make for an intimate experience, but they offer a staff that is genuinely friendly and truly happy to welcome visitors, as they live most of the year in the quiet solitude of the park. Meals at both camps meet ex-acting standards, with French cuisine prepared by a classically trained chef – just another surprise in the middle of nowhere.

The SeCONd leg Of Reid’S adveNTuRe TOOK him to Tanzania, where he previewed the newest in a long line of outstanding Singita properties – the Mara River Tented Camp. This is the only camp on the river, situated to offer visitors an unmatched view of the Great Migration. Mara River Tented Camp is positioned so that a game drive isn’t even necessary – simply look out from the teak decks of any of the six luxury tents to watch the scene. While spectacular, this seasonal main attraction is not the be-all and end-all for the camp. Resident game is abundant year-round, and Reid saw two lion kills on his trip.

More than 98,000 acres of wilderness surround the camp in the Lamai Triangle of the northern Serengeti, and with the blessing of the Tanzanian government, Singita pounced upon this little-known region of the park to offer discerning trav-elers the only luxury tented option in the Lamai. Cécile & Boyd’s Interior Design crafted spaces alive with contemporary African design elements and vintage-inspired furnishings. A minimum environmental impact was of utmost importance

during the camp’s conception: Power is all solar-generated, and natural and recycled building ma-terials add to the sustainable design.

Singita’s fingerprint of opulence is on every feature at the camp, from the exceptional team of gourmet chefs who serve fine dishes along with homemade ice creams and smoothies, to the in-credible plunge pool at the main tent overlook-ing the river. While it’s possible to while away the hours wrapped in the comforts of camp, a trip into the bush in open-sided vehicles should not be avoided. Lamai is teeming with resident plains game and big cats, and the Mara is home to hippos and crocodiles, ensuring a show on land and in the

water for guests who want to explore. As a first primate experience, a trip to Odzala

will enchant and spoil you. Ker & Downey’s Ulti-mate Africa journey gives you a peek at the diverse environments that shelter Africa’s primates in the Congo Basin and Rwanda’s mountains, plus the spectacle of the Great Migration in the Serengeti. This 22-day jaunt from Odzala to Rwanda to the Serengeti is well suited to the adventuresome who are looking to forge into the wilderness and take in a panorama of Africa’s many varied locales.

For more information about customizing your own journey to Odzala-Kokoua, the Lamai Trian-gle, or any other destination, contact your travel professional or visit www.kerdowney.com.

There are no trails here, no paths cut between acres of marshy high grasses and lush marantaceae. So too there are no roads - preparing for this trek is not unlike preparing for a duck hunt in a backwoods marsh.

(left) Sundowners at the river are unforgettable.

(below) An elephant greeting

in the northern Serengeti; sharp

interiors courtesy of Cécile & Boyd’s.

riverside splendor

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ExploringTanzania

in his own words, Ker & downey President david Marek recalls his jaunt through Tanzania – an incredible adventure of unexpected wildlife and unrivaled luxury on the edge of the great Migration.


You can see for miles from the pool at Singita

Sasakwa Lodge.

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SePTeMbeR 2012 fOuNd My wife, gaNa, aNd me headed to Tanzania, our “reward” after complet-ing an emotionally draining two weeks at a medical mission in Uganda, handing out 12,000 mosquito nets and assisting doctors and nurses who saw more than 20,000 sickly individuals – most of them wom-en and children. The dichotomy of this trip was going to slap us in the face: One day we were surround-ed by 5,000 desperate people just wanting to give their children a chance at life, and the next we were wrapped in the soothing views of Mount Meru at the Legendary Coffee Lodge. But we’ve been confronted with the realities of travel in Africa many times. In Africa one can go from utter despair to ultimate lux-ury in a heartbeat. We were eager to begin the “ulti-mate luxury” portion of the trip, which would take us from the Legendary Coffee Lodge to Mwiba Camp; then to the northern Serengeti for visits to Legend-ary’s mobile camp, Nomad’s Lemai Serengeti Lodge, and Asalia’s Sayari Lodge; and on to the western Serengeti and Singita’s Grumeti Reserves.

But before all this, we had to visit a school. Gol-gatha School lies at the edge of Arusha in an area of slums where homes are constructed of any discarded piece of tin, wood, or cardboard one can find, similar to other slums in any sizable African city. The school here is supported by individuals from the United States and England, and is a testament to what can happen when dedicated people share a vision of hope. After an afternoon with the children and dis-cussions with the staff, we were back to the luxury of the Legendary Coffee Lodge. The lodge is managed by Russell Hastings, a chef from South Africa who knows how to dish out the luxury. The setting at LCL shouts Out of Africa, especially in the dining experi-ence: When you’re sitting on the veranda looking out over the coffee estate with a South African wine in hand, images conjured by Karen Blixen come easily to mind. The accommodations at LCL are impeccable with fresh-cut roses in each room, satellite televi-sion, and wireless Internet – little details that are en-hanced by the stunning views of Mount Meru from each room.

After breakfast we met Brad Hansen, our guide for the first portion of the trip. Brad was born in South Africa and came to Tanzania looking for a new ad-venture. Over the course of the next week I would find that Brad’s knowledge of the bush was almost as incredible as his ability to patiently put us in the right locations to capture unusual moments with animals. A Safari Air flight took our party of three to Mwiba Tented Camp in the Mwiba Wildlife Reserve.

The reserve is a 300,000-acre diverse landscape of acacia forests, riverine bush, massive rock kopjes, and open savanna. The beauty of this scene is that it is all yours – it’s a private concession with just you,

the animals, and the blanket of stars at night. During our stay we embarked on game drives, safari walks, and night drives, and we sat in elevated tree “houses” over water holes. One of the highlights for me was walking with Brad through the bush and ending up at a magnificent rock structure with a water hole down below, a place that happens to be the site of Mwiba’s next lodge. As we walked up, we surprised a leopard drinking at the water hole – two strides and he was gone. We sat on top of the outcropping and imagined herds of buffalo below drinking at the water hole, all the while looking toward the endless savanna in the distance.

Mwiba Camp is a six-bed property overlooking a water hole. Each luxury tent has its own private en-suite bathroom with a flush toilet, double basins, and shower, plus views from the veranda toward the stream below the camp. We spent many moments at leisure watching waterbucks, zebras, and impalas in this stream, and even had a nighttime visitor: a cu-rious leopard that decided to walk through camp. The main dining tent serves three great meals a day with drinks included, naturally. This camp is a must for anyone who wants to get away from the safari crowds. Where else can you have 300,000 acres all to yourself?

(left) A Klipspringer visitor looks over Sayari Camp; romantic lantern-lit dinners at Singita Sabora.

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David Marek captures a family portrait in the Lemai Wedge.

The beauty of this scene is that it is all yours… with just you, the animals, and the blanket of stars at night.



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The next stop on our trip was the Lemai Wedge area of the Serengeti, a region that got its name from the wedge-shaped stretch of land formed by the Mara River on the south and the Kenyan border to the north. Safari Air once again got us there quickly and efficiently, anticipating the properties we would be visiting: Serengeti Legendary Camp, Nomad’s Lamai Serengeti, and Asalia’s Sayari Camp, all located just south of the Mara River. Access to the Wedge is via a concrete river crossing that can be impassible during the rainy season.

Game viewing in this area can be spectacular. Many people visit just for the chance of seeing a wildebeest river crossing, which is incredible, but travelers shouldn’t spend their days waiting on a crossing when there are so many interesting things to see. On one of our morning drives Brad decided to continue past the 10 cars waiting at the river for a crossing and drive into the Wedge to look for rhinos. We didn’t find any, but we did spend lunchtime with a beautiful male cheetah, and while having lunch with the cheetah Brad saw something in the distance that piqued his interest. We headed up a dry creek bed and found a pride of lions lazing in the shade. While many tourists would have left the sighting and moved on in search of more active sights, Brad en-couraged us to stay and watch these lions interact. As we waited, off in the distance we saw another lion-ess approaching us with her two little cubs in tow. There was a lot of posturing when this lioness and cubs approached the pride. Brad theorized that this female had left the pride to have her cubs, and had now chosen this time to introduce her new cubs to their extended family. One by one the cubs moved from one pride member to the other, with a proud mother finally “showing” them to the pride male. What a great photo op!

The ThRee CaMPS we viSiTed iN ThiS aRea were all unique, and each had its own charm. The Serengeti Legendary Camp is a mobile camp that relocates each season. It has the old safari charm of bucket showers but the modern convenience of flush toilets. With views toward the valley below, during the day it’s not unusual to see topi, zebras, giraffes, buffalo, and other animals from your tent. The primary reason for discerning guests to consider this camp is that it doesn’t mix clients: You and your spouse or your family will be the only guests. If you would like a private adventure, this is it.

Nomad’s Lemai Serengeti has an exquisite loca-tion high on Kogakuria Kopje, netting some pretty stunning views. Lemai Serengeti has just 12 rooms folded into and around the features of the Kopje. The lodge has a relaxed feel with whitewashed wood and a minimalistic approach to decor. Meals are served in the main dining room, again with outrageous views of the surrounding plains. If you like to skip the oc-casional game drive and read a book or just take in the scene, Lemai Serengeti is your place.

Sayari Camp lies closer to the Mara River than Serengeti Legendary Camp or Lemai Serengeti. From Sayari it’s only 10 minutes to the river, whereas from either of the other properties the drive was up to half an hour longer. Choosing this camp means you can get to the action earlier in the morning and stay later in the evening. Sayari is a permanent camp of 15 tents divided into two wings. Although the largest of the three, the camp has a smaller feel thanks to its two dining rooms; one for the six tents on the right and the other for the nine tents on the left. The camp commands excellent views of the surrounding sa-vanna, and on rare occasions the migration can be at your doorstep. During the heat of the day, the extra-large and billowy tent design and the pool provided a nice respite. Sayari remains one of our favorite sa-fari properties, made more so by the excellent couple managing it, John and Clare Upton.

There are many other properties around the Lemai Wedge that we did not include on this trip. One of my all-time favorites due to its location on the Mara River is Oke Kira camp. It’s a mobile camp with all the amenities, but did I mention that it’s located next to the river with views of one of the crossings? Something to consider, however, is that game drives in this area must follow established tracks, whereas game drives in private concessions are able to move about more freely.

The final leg of our trip took us to Singita’s Grumeti Reserves, where we stayed at Sabora Plains tented camp and Faru Faru Lodge. Also located in the re-serve is Sasakwa Lodge: Together, this trio was voted the Best Hotel in Travel + Leisure’s 2011 World’s Best Awards. Singita’s Grumeti Reserves is 350,000 pri-vate acres of pure safari nirvana. The three proper-ties are strikingly different, yet they all rely on that exquisite level of detail and service that has helped build Singita’s stellar reputation. Their focus expands beyond opulence, however, as Singita helps the lo-cal communities earn income by assisting them in growing the produce that lodge chefs use to prepare unforgettable cuisine.

Sabora Plains is a nine-tent luxury camp on the plains, which allows for near-limitless sight lines in every direction. While relaxing in camp we saw an army of 17 giraffes make their way to the water hole, along with countless gazelles and other animals. It was quite a display while we were relaxing on our private deck with G&Ts. The tents are decorated with trunks and other campaign furnishings of a bygone era, all brought up to modern-day standards with the addition of air-conditioning, wireless Internet, direct-dial telephones, hair dryers, outdoor show-ers, and your personal Swarovski spotting scope on the deck. There’s a tennis court and swimming pool near the main dining tent for those who want a bit of exercise, as well as mountain bikes, an archery range, and a stable of 16 horses near Sasakwa Lodge for a rather unique horseback game drive.

Singita Faru Faru’s din-ing pavilion overlooks an active water hole;(right) natural rocks frame the pool at Sayari Camp.

bush beauty


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Faru Faru is Singita’s contemporary property and one of Gana’s favorites. Stone and canvas building materials meld with the two rim-filled pools to cre-ate a tranquil yet inspiring setting just above the wa-ter hole. Meals can be taken in a variety of locations around the main area, providing for quaint and pri-vate dining. There are eight suites and one villa, each with unobstructed views through their floor-to-ceiling, wall-to wall windows. As at Sabora Plains, each suite is fitted with all the modern conveniences and, yes, even your own personal Swarovski spot-ting scope.

duRiNg OuR TwO-NighT STay aT faRu faRu, we saw lions, leopards, cheetahs, buffalo, elephants, and many species of plains game. At the nearby rhi-no reserve, one can observe the black rhinos that are being reintroduced to this area through the efforts of the Singita Grumeti Fund, Tanzania National Parks, and Frankfurt Zoological Society. The annual migra-tion makes its way through Grumeti between June and September, but the resident game in the area is absolutely incredible and makes this an ideal year-round destination.

At each of the properties we visited on this trip, we found the local guides to be knowledgeable and ready to please. That said, I prefer to use a private guide like Brad on my trips into the bush. As someone who likes to get the best out of my limited photographic abil-

The camp commands excellent views of the surrounding savanna, and on rare occasion the migration can be at your doorstep.

ity, I find that private guides generally have a better understanding of how to set up a viewing so you can capture it effortlessly. Brad’s patience rewarded us with a fairly rare lion sighting – I venture to say that most guides would have left that particular viewing before the real drama unfolded.

Are you ready to visit yet? Consider that the long rains in Tanzania are historically during April and May and the short rains are in November. I would advise travelers to broaden their horizons, and not to rely too much on seeing the migration, which can limit the opportunities to see other very interesting things. If the migration is non-negotiable, be pre-pared to pack a lunch and drive all day. This annual spectacle is fluid and wildly unpredictable: It could be in one spot one day and 20 miles away the next. Regardless of when you choose to travel to Tanzania, there is no shortage of amazing sights and luxurious accommodations to keep you thirsting for more of this beautiful, untamed region.

For more information about customizing your own journey to Tanzania or any other destination, contact your travel professional or visit www.kerdowney.com.

Mwiba Wildlife Reserve is home to a secret tented hideaway


Safari from above at Singita Sabora.

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No two holes are alike at The Hills Golf Course.



J e T T O T h el i N K S O fN e w z e a l a N dThe wORld’S MOST vaRied SCeNeRy iS The baCKdROP fOR a wealTh Of adveNTuRe aNd SOMe Of The beST gOlf COuRSeS iN exiSTeNCe. JauNT aCROSS The COuNTRy ON OuR iNCRedible JOuR-Ney, PaCKed wiTh gOlf ON PReMiuM gReeNS aNd iNCRedible laNdSCaPeS SeeN by PRivaTe JeT.

k e r & d o w n e y 7 1

and rain showers to rejuvenate sore muscles. The tour of incredible courses and scenery con-

tinues with a northbound flight to the Bay of Is-lands and two nights at Kauri Cliffs, located on 6,000 acres near Matauri Bay. Tee off here on a course named the 18th best in the world by Golf magazine. The 7,120-yard, par-72 course has 15 holes with views of the Pacific Ocean, while six are played along cliffs that plunge into the sea below, making for one extraordinary water feature. At the lodge the views continue, with a 180-degree pan-orama of the ocean or golf course from your room. Tennis courts, a tranquil spa, and three secluded beaches will fill the time between hitting the links.

Your private jet then makes its way south to Taupo and a unique golf experience at the Kinloch Club. This par-72 course is surrounded by Lake Taupo to the south and the Kinloch hills to the east, and is currently the only Jack Nicklaus ex-clusive signature club in New Zealand. You’ll stay at one of the world’s most famous retreats, Huka Lodge, located on 17 acres of manicured grounds. The iconic lodge sits above Huka Falls on a bend of the Waikato River and has 25 suites designed to re-flect the beauty of their surroundings.

Then you’ll balance the days of golf with some downtime at Timara Lodge, a charming five-room property on 600 acres of land. The grounds in-clude a 25-acre English garden, five-acre lake, and a rose garden with 350 varieties of roses. The well-appointed rooms have Italian marble bathrooms, Italian linens, and modern amenities.

eveN afTeR beiNg quiCKly CaTaPulTed iNTOpopularity by The Lord of the Rings, New Zea-land has maintained a unique charm that seems untouched by the outside world. The pristine wilderness of Taupo and the Bay of Islands, con-trasted with the cosmopolitan cities of Auckland and Queenstown, provides a harmonious balance between adventure and relaxation in luxurious ac-commodations. New Zealand seems to offer some-thing for everyone, so it’s no wonder the country is quickly becoming a golfer’s paradise. Our New Zealand Golf Adventure whisks you by private jet to the most scenic locations, where you’ll play on courses with landscapes so gorgeous you’ll strug-gle to keep your eyes on the ball. The distinctive courses are challenging for experienced golfers, yet accessible and enjoyable for all skill levels.

This incredible trip begins in Auckland, the “city of sails” and Polynesian capital of the world. The golf starts at the Titirangi Golf Club, set between the Waitakere Ranges and Manukau Harbor. The developers took the original nature of the site into consideration during the club’s inception, so the bushland par-70 course has elevated tees and roll-ing fairways. This beautiful landscape is one of the reasons it is consistently ranked as a top course in New Zealand. After a full day of golf, includ-ing a clinic with the club professional, unwind at the waterfront Sofitel Auckland, which overlooks Waitemata Harbor. Floor-to-ceiling windows and private balconies provide views of the marina, and the well-appointed rooms have deep soaking tubs

(left) Lovely mountains and Lake Wakatipu surround Matakauri Lodge; (below) natural beauty abounds at Titirangi Golf Club.

the kiwi vistas

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Watch the City of Sails from the Sofitel Auckland

on Watemata Harbor.

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The JOuRNey CONCludeS wiTh fOuR NighTS overlooking Lake Wakatipu at Matakauri Lodge, a sis-ter property of Kauri Cliffs just a few minutes from the heart of Queenstown. All 11 suites and villas have pri-vate terraces with magnificent views, cozy fireplaces, and generously sized bathrooms. You’ll have the op-portunity to golf at two clubs in the area. At Millbrook, try out one of the three courses design by Sir Bob Charles. A mix of parkland and links, groomed fairways and greens set the scene for the perfect round of golf. At the Hills Golf Course, your final round commences in a 500-acre valley. No two holes are alike, and the el-

evated tees have 360-degree views of the snowcapped mountains. Unique sculptures by local artists comple-ment the course’s natural beauty.

When you aren’t working on your swing, exclu-sive tours and excursions round out your time in New Zealand. Near Auckland, you can visit an artist on Waiheke Island and enjoy a private tour of the Con-nell’s Bay Sculpture Park. You’ll interact with the lo-cal Maori people in Taupo as your Maori guide, a direct descendant of the high chief of the Ngati Tuwharetoa

The 7,120 yaRd PaR 72 COuRSe feaTuReS 15 hOleS wiTh viewS

Of The PaCifiC OCeaN, while Six aRe Played alONg CliffS ThaT PluNge iNTO The Sea belOw, MaKiNg

fOR ONe exTRaORdiNaRy waTeR feaTuRe.

tribe, provides insight into the tribal heritage and the legends surrounding the Taupo area. In Wellington, a visit to the Weta Workshop gives you the chance to see props from The Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit, and Ava-tar while learning about the artists who created them.

Epicureans aren’t forgotten on this journey – they’ll find steamed mussels and Sauvignon Blanc in Marlbor-ough Sound and taste Pinot Noir at the Valli Winery in the southernmost wine-making region of Central Otago.

New Zealand is an adventurer’s playground, and the outdoor activities go far beyond the links to reveal even more of the islands’ beauty. Take a helicopter ride above Milford Sound for picturesque views of Mitre Peak and a landing on a glacier. In Taupo, another heli-copter takes you to White Island, an active volcano, to walk on the crater floor before landing on the breath-taking summit of Mount Tarawera.

Private jet transfers throughout the entire 14-day journey allow you to take in incredible scenery at every turn and from every angle. In a country with distinctive golf courses and varied, unforgettable landscapes, the only thing you’ll need to consider is which to pull out first: your driver or your camera.

For more information about customizing your own journey to New Zealand, contact your travel profes-sional or visit www.kerdowney.com.

From a chopper landing on the volcanic White Island (left) to the grounds of Millbrook Golf Course, it’s all right to let your eyes wander.

so much to see


Waikato River is your view from Huka Lodge.

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Experiential .

Tra v e l i n g i s a b o u t m o re t h a n s i m p l y s e e i n g n e w t h i n g s ; i t ’ s a b o u t w h a t h a p p e n s t o y o u r s o u l i n t h e p r o c e s s . Yo u r j o u r n e y s h o u l d d e l i v e r m o m e n t s t h a t i n s p i re y o u , o p e n y o u r e y e s t o ra re b e a u t i e s o f t h e w o r l d , a n d o v e r w h e l m y o u r s e n s e s . We’ re p r i v a t e , e x p e r i e n t i a l , l u x u r y t ra v e l a t i t s v e r y b e s t , a n d t h e s e l i t t l e i n e f f a b l e m o m e n t s c o m e s t a n d a rd o n e v e r y Ke r & D o w n e y j o u r n e y .

A F R I C A | A S I A | E U R O P E | S O U T H A M E R I C A | T H E M I D D L E E A S T | S O U T H P A C I F I C | B E Y O N D

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL OR VISIT US ON THE WEB AT WWW.KERDOWNEY.COM.

bespoke vol.5 issue 1

Documents

ker downey journey

e n d o r

b o d i

h e t r av e

old world

beautiful world

david livingstone

whisky experience